UNKNOWN

A Case Study: Cultural and Environmental

This document been produced with the financi- al assistance of UNDP Albania. Its contents are the sole responsibility of IPS and can under no circumstances be regarded as reflecting the views of UNDP Albania. Contents

Introduction Ramesh Jaura 5

European Integration Takes More Than Attitude Alba Çela 7 A Few Greeks Discover Their Neighbour Apostolis Fotiadis 9 Civil Society Far From Local Needs Zoltán Dujisin 10 Forget Communism...Or Sell It Zoltán Dujisin 13 UNESCO Not A Life Saver Zoltán Dujisin 15 Ambitious New Framework To Regulate Tourism Alba Çela 17 No Time To Waste Claudia Ciobanu 18 Preserving A Beauty Called Vesna Peric Zimonjic 20 Energy Needs Clash With Tourism Claudia Ciobanu 22 A Provincial Capital On The Move Claudia Ciobanu 25 But Where Are the Differences? Vesna Peric Zimonjic 27 Saving For Others - And Itself Claudia Ciobanu 28 Time To Know The Unknown - Interview with Speaker of the 30 Albanian Parliament Jozefina Topalli Tourism Brings Environmental Challenge Vesna Peric Zimonjic 32 Environment And Tourism Can Hold Hands Zoltán Dujisin 34 Landing Might Be An Idea Sanjay Suri 36 Albania On The Road From The World - Interview with Sanjay Suri 38 Dr. Ylli Pango, Albanian minister for tourism Long And Winding Road Straightening Out Altin Raxhimi 40

Imprint 42 Introduction

By Ramesh Jaura

ince the end of the East-West cold war, tegy. UNDP is assisting the Government to create SAlbania has made significant strides in esta- the right circumstances for tourism-driven deve- blishing the foundations of democratic instituti- lopment, as well as providing assistance to local ons and a market economy, including its 1998 tourism development. Constitution. In 2000, Albania became a member of the World Trade Organisation, which illustra- Culture and environment can indeed be impor- tes its determination to build an open and inte- tant parts of the tourism industry, and a boon to grated economy. rural communities. IPS examines this approach - and to what extent it finds success -- using Albania And yet it remains 's last "unknown" as a case study in a globalised world with funds country - in part, because it is not an easy tourism from UNDP Albania. destination for international markets to under- stand. But the fact that the country maintains a This publication compiles all articles that have cultural "authenticity" with its wide range of been written by independent journalists from the historic and natural attractions could hold great IPS European network and disseminated through allure for the outside world. With this in view, IPS website, in special publications, newsletters and Albania has turned its focus to tourism develop- by way of translations among others into Dutch, ment. In the process, the quality of life of a signi- German and Spanish. The articles in English are ficant number of could be improved - available in internet at a special website: in tune with the country's commitment to the www.ipsnews.net/new_focus/tourism/index.asp Millennium Development Goals. In the six months since the special website went UNDP Albania is working closely with the online, thousands of people from around the Government of Albania, in particular with the world have visited it. Nearly one quarter of a mil- Ministry of Tourism, Culture, Youth and Sports lion page views underline the great interest IPS and the National Tourism Organization to imple- has created in Albania's cultural and environmen- ment the country's eco and cultural tourism stra- tal tourism efforts.

Berlin, December 2007 Ramesh Jaura, Project Coordinator | IPS European Director

5 Llaman close to Himare with a colourfully decorated bunker to the right (Klaus Friedl 2007)

6 European Integration Takes More Than Attitude

By Alba Çela

irana - Albanians are among the most Euro- pessimism expressed by every visiting EU repre- Tenthusiastic people in the Western , sentative. Commissioner for education, training, surveys show. But that does not mean they belie- culture and youth Jan Figel told the media on a ve they will join the EU in a hurry. As many as visit to last month that Albania has made 93.8 percent want to join the European family, progress on its road to the EU, but that much according to a study 'Rethinking EU Integration: remains to be done. "It is up to Albania to do its Albanian realities and perceptions 2007' by the fundamental homework as it is your own country, Albanian Institute for International Studies and we can only support you all the way," Figel (AIIS). The AIIS has been gauging perceptions said. about the EU and the integration process for the Aspirations for the EU have in the past been last five years, and has found approval rates for controversial. One of the most powerful slogans Albania's entry to the EU always above 80 per- raised by Albanian protesters who challenged the cent. The enthusiasm is fed in part by the growing communist regime in 1991 was, "We want Albania number of European visitors who have been to be like Europe!" Significant reforms are neces- coming to Albania as it puts infrastructure and sary before Albania can hope for EU membership. environment improvements in place to bring The government is trying to come to terms with a itself up to EU standards. range of political and economic problems that impede the integration process, among them Opening of markets widespread corruption and an energy crisis. "Albanians and people in the Balkans generally In 2005, the approval was 83.9 percent. In 2006 will benefit largely after integration, in terms of it jumped to 92.5 percent, following the signing of democratic stability, economic modernisation and a Stabilisation and Association Agreement with social welfare," Xavier Vidal-Folch, deputy editor the EU in July 2005. Such an agreement is a first of 'El Pais' told Albanian journalists at a training step towards eventual membership. "One of the session in September. most important conclusions of our study is that Albanians see the EU as their country's most strate- Ticket to free movement gic partner," AIIS executive director Albert Rakipi told IPS. The AIIS study found internal nuances of "On the other side, they will have to sacrifice attitude among the polled people. The business time and effort to convince the existing members category seems to be more skeptical, and is concer- of the added value. This should be done by the ned about the economic costs of accession and the aspiring countries' political class, intellectual opening of markets. But even so, the vast majority elite and journalists." But the move to the EU of businesses are positive about EU accession. gets more difficult with time. "The larger the EU But though Albanians want to join the EU, gets, the harder it is going to be to make it lar- their expectations are different. "One of the main ger. Members will seek guarantees that expansi- findings of the survey is that despite the extreme- on will be for the better of the Union," Vidal- ly high level of support for integration, Albanians Folch told IPS. For most Albanians, entry in the have no illusions as to their country's readiness to EU means a ticket to free movement. But a first enter the EU," Maklen Misha, director of research step has been taken with the signing of the visa at AIIS told IPS. As many as 82.8 percent of the facilitation and readmission agreements in people polled said Albania is not ready to join the Brussels Sep. 18. Meanwhile, Albanians remain EU. The majority of Albanians place their acces- keen on something they do not believe will hap- sion date no earlier than 2020. This reflects the pen in a hurry. (Reported in November 2007) „ 7 The ferry harbour of Brëgelumë (Klaus Friedl 2007)

8 A Few Greeks Discover Their Neighbour By Apostolis Fotiadis

thens - Some years ago most Greeks knew emphasis is given to the archaeological site AAlbania only as an unknown frontier. It was Butrinti, 290km south of Tirana, and other a country from which impoverished migrants southern cities with an ethnic Greek populati- crossed into in search of a job and a bet- on like Gjirokaster, and Sarande. ter life; a place that people were leaving, where Greek tourists say they are attracted largely by nobody wanted to go. A gradual if limited inte- ethnic ties and feelings. gration of the newcomers and the opening of a Nikos Petalotis, a 33-year-old dentist, said newborn market for Greek business in Albania his visit to Albania was a dream come true. "It has created an opportunity for a few in the is important for me to visit this region of Greek public to learn more about their Hellenic culture about which I have read many neighbour. books and heard innumerable stories. I am Historical links have been rediscovered. The interested in the Byzantine and post-Byzantine flow of people has started becoming reciprocal monuments." Andrea Litis, a pensioner, says even if marginally. Stefanos Hatzimanolis is the he goes for personal reasons. "My parents one travel agent to have sensed this change. The came from a small village outside Gjirokaster, last two years he has been organising holiday but they never managed to return after the packages to Albania. Second World War. Indirectly, through their "People who buy packages for Albania are stories, I became nostalgic about these places. I either experienced passengers who want to add felt strong emotions during my trip." this destination to the list of places they have been to, or they are motivated by curiosity," he Lack of infrastructure told IPS. "They are well educated, and they are Despite the country's natural beauty and the usually informed about their destination." attractiveness of its cultural wealth, Albania's Customers mostly from Greece tourism development is widely challenged by lack of infrastructure. "It is obvious that they His customers come mostly from northern need a new road circulation network," said Greece, and are interested in four or five-day Natassa Siniori, a journalist who has travelled excursions which include transportation, hotels, extensively around Albania. "Distances are not meals and a tourist guide. "It makes it easier for calculated by kilometres but by minutes or the visitor since these services do not work per- hours. Narrow streets with bad quality tarmac fectly all along the country. Currently we move make an otherwise pleasant journey tiring and more than 800 people annually by airplane or difficult." bus." The trip that the agency offers covers many But problems with infrastructure do not deter sights and cities in central and south Albania. all. Hatzimanolis says cultural and other attracti- "Visitors are usually impressed with the ons more than compensate. at , the city of Durres, and the city centre in "Perhaps the tourist sector and basic infra- Tirana. The cost of the trip is between 295 and 340 structure still need a lot of advancement. But the euro, depending on the services someone wants will of people to improve things, and their limit- to buy, plus any personal expenses. It is very dif- less interest in opening up this market creates ficult to convince someone to travel to Albania for good conditions for cooperation. And local cui- more than that at the moment," Hatzimanolis sine and Albanian culture are likely to grab the said. The trip focuses on the ancient heritage and attention of the tourist from Greece and the broad- the ethnic Greek element of the country. Specific er Mediterranean.” (Reported in September 2007)„ 9 Civil Society Far From Local Needs

By Zoltán Dujisin

irana - Achieving environmentally sustaina- standards than the rest of the population, and Tble will also be up to the access to Western goods or visas in a country that efforts of communities and civil society organi- up until recently had little contact with the outsi- sations, but as in much of the post-socialist de world. While acknowledging that Albania is world, non-governmental organisations living under a "very hard capitalism" similar to (NGOs) and their donors will have to clean up that of "150 years ago in America", Tare is even their act first. The dependence on foreign more critical of the NGOs' raison d'être. donors and philanthropists is still causing Albanian civic organizations to respond more Democratisation as primary goal to donor requests than to the local needs they "Everybody makes an NGO because that's a supposedly represent. way of making money out of Westerners. And Organisations fostering civil society deve- Westerners want to work with NGOS. This lopment are powerful actors in Albania, and creates another East-West world of corruption." have been central in promoting democratisati- Tare describes NGO work as "just a way of on in the formerly communist country. Donors doing a lot of paperwork, seminars, workshops, are often accused by local civic organisations of but nothing on the ground." Asked if he could being inflexible, withholding vital information pinpoint any concrete achievements by NGOs, on common projects and of putting forward he said, "I don't know of any yet." Representa- abstract guidelines which are not based on any tives of NGOs, however, disagree. Xhemal study of local conditions and needs. Mato, executive director of the Ecomovement Lack of altruism Centre, says there is truth to some of the accu- sations, but explains difficulties faced by well- "Morally civic organizations should represent intentioned activists in Albania. "We are only those who they claim to represent, but legally given money for meetings and seminars, not for they are obliged towards the donors, so I think starting something concrete," Mato told IPS. "It donors should be more responsible," Auron Tare, is very important to be able to find funds to director of the Albanian National Trust told IPS. raise awareness on challenges such as Illegal But not everything can be expected from donors. building in the coast or building without consi- "If local Albanians themselves don't engage in deration to environmental needs." protecting the coastline and the environment, whatever donors do, it's not going to happen," Pushing the municipality says Tare. "They have their own interests, and With donors seeing the primary goal of these are never purely altruistic." democratisation as having been partly achieved, The lack of altruism is also pervasive among funds have started to dwindle, and competition activists themselves. "Mostly NGOs here are from the many Albanian NGOs for the little opportunistic, not specialised, and they will available funding is stiffening. "Donors are not chew on whatever is thrown at them in terms as abundant as at the beginning of democratisa- of funding," Arian Gace, national coordinator tion, and there is very big competition," says for the Global Environment Facility (GEF) Mato. "Now that the political aspect is over, small grants programme told IPS. Working for donors feel governments should continue doing an NGO often means access to higher living the job." Even with poor funding, Mato believes 10 A traditional Albanian family (Klaus Friedl 2005) something has been achieved. "You have some think environmental groups in Albania have not concrete examples in which you can say that achieved enough from lack of experience in nego- without NGOS some problems could not be sol- tiating and reaching compromises. "Albania is ved," he says. One such example, he says, is not in a position to make great sacrifices to save environmental NGOS pushing the municipality the environment, and we have to make the most of Tirana to raise its waste treatment standards. we can from what we have," Gace told IPS. "Part Other important projects promoted by of the coast will have to be sacrificed and other NGOs, such as an awareness campaign in eco- parts protected as part of a sort of social pact." tourism, remain only on paper as the organisa- This is what Gace feels environmental groups tions struggle to obtain government support. have not yet grasped. "The NGO community Unfortunately for Mato, his group and other would have gotten much more if they would NGOs feel the government is not on their side come to the table with options and be ready to precisely as a result of one of their positive actually bargain, because otherwise the other functions. part will make a decision anyway," he said. "I've "Because we frequently are a second voice for seen them reacting too much emotionally, they've journalists in contradicting the government, the been saying we'll protect everything, everywhere, government doesn't really like NGOs." Others all the time." (Reported in August 2007) „ 11 Bunkers dot several Albanian landscapes (Klaus Friedl 2005)

12 Forget Communism...Or Sell It

By Zoltán Dujisin

irana - Bunkers? Underground catacombs? building of around 750,000 bunkers between 1974 TSubmarine bases? Albania has been shaped and 1986 to protect Albanian citizens from what by one of the most bizarre communist regimes Tirana perceived as a hostile international envi- ever and the potential to exploit it for tourism is ronment. The engineer who designed them was inestimable. The possibilities for what has been said to be so confident of their indestructibility termed as 'communist heritage tourism' are pre- that state officials had a bunker tested against sent, but as with other post-socialist countries in rockets with the designer himself inside. The the region, the attempt at creating a communist- engineer survived, and mass production of bun- free national identity since the 1990s is in conflict kers commenced. with Western tourists' increasing interest in rem- nants of the communist past. Bunkers are omnipresent "If there are people interested just in these 50 These are now one of the trademarks of the years of history, why not offer it?" says Nevila Albanian landscape. Some, mostly Albanians, Popa, business development specialist for USAID think the bunkers spoil Albania's beautiful coun- in Albania. While it remains a niche market, tryside, whereas others, mostly foreigners, see in some, as Gent Mati from the tourism agency the mushroom-like structures a chilling but fasci- Outdoors Albania, confirm "there is interest for nating sign of an obscure political history. What is this paranoid, psychotic regime." Several monu- undeniable is that Albania's bunkers, whose con- ments suffered destruction at the hands of angry crete could have solved much of Albania's hou- crowds when state socialism collapsed, but much sing problems, are omnipresent: outside cities remains for the curious eye. and towns, on slopes and hills and on Architecture of socialism the seaside, in varying sizes. They are mostly abandoned, and used as public toilets, waste con- "We have so many elements of communism tainers or lover hideouts. that it is unavoidable; anywhere we drive you see Yet some have been given a more creative the signs," Mati told IPS. "It's an integral part of function: a few concrete structures have been Albanian history and more constantly present covered with psychedelic pink and purple motifs than other monuments you would have to seek." following an initiative of the culture ministry. In On arriving in capital Tirana it becomes obvious the coastal resort of Durres, less than an hour's that the architecture of socialism dominates the drive from Tirana, bunkers have been re-interpre- urban landscape. A visit to the National Historical ted in a more commercial fashion, and now serve Museum, itself an example of socialist realist art, refreshments to sun and water bathers. will suffice to grasp just how much weight com- Yet some of the attractions of the potential com- munism had in Albania's recent history. munist heritage tourism are not as ubiquitous, and Communism came to Albania in 1944, and one will literally have to sink deep to find them. relations with other socialist states were normal "The ministry of defence is being lobbied to open up until 1961, when the country's leader, Enver unused military bases, some of which are at very Hoxha, broke with the 'revisionist' Soviet Union beautiful places, and which could be restored at and decided to draw closer to . Hoxha imi- museums," Mati told IPS. tated the concept of 'cultural revolution' from One of these places is the of Palermo, on China, but the alliance lasted only until 1978, Albania's southern shore, where a former Soviet sub- when Beijing normalised relations with the marine base, now abandoned, is begging for visitors. and angered Tirana. Albania deci- The , in cooperation with the ministry of ded to go its own, nationalistic and still Stalinist tourism, is already on the case trying to open up the way, resulting in complete isolation and even infrastructure for tourism. The base is carved on a harsher economic conditions. in the idyllic bay, which also happens to be one The political isolation made the regime para- of the most attractive spots for unspoiled Medi- noid, the most telling example of this being the terranean swimming. (Reported in August 007) „ 13 The picturesque downtown Gjirokastro (Klaus Friedl 2007)

14 UNESCO Not A Life Saver

By Zoltán Dujisin

jirokastro - Good looks have not sufficed to Albanian National Trust, "but UNESCO does not Gmake Gjirokaster, a picturesque historical city give money, it is just a prestigious title." Tare told IPS in , the wealthy and successful that UNESCO status increases awareness so that tourist destination it aspires to be. Tourism is prac- "local people try to do something for their own town tically the only aspiration for the 30,000-inhabitant rather than expecting UNESCO or other organisati- town where most of its formerly important light ons to help them." industries have gone bankrupt. In 2005 the United Bragg says the Albanian government makes Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Orga- investment difficult, precisely when there is a pres- nisations (UNESCO) included the southern sing need for wealthy foreigners to save decaying Albanian town in its World Heritage List, a sta- buildings. While foreigners can purchase property tus-granting achievement that helps with main- in Albania, the most valuable buildings are not ac- taining and cataloguing sites of cultural interest. cessible to them. Moreover, foreigners who invest Gjirokaster, the birthplace of former communist in Albania often consider these investments to be ruler , began flourishing under risky. The World Bank's latest 'Doing Business' Ottoman rule, and its architectonical evolution report ranks Albania among the worst countries boasts some unique 17th and 19th century styles. when it comes to protecting foreign investment, in National recognition of its cultural value came 162nd place. But this city still offers many opportu- before, in 1961, when authorities granted it the nities for those wishing to invest in tourism, while status of a 'museum city'. The former communist saving the town's architectonical patrimony. ruler was very fond of his hometown, which still votes overwhelmingly socialist, and hundreds of Infrastructure before marketing people were employed in preservation of the Kate Yarhouse, also part of the Peace Corps pro- town, which was taken for granted by residents. gramme to promote tourism in the city, told IPS that Status of a 'museum city' many of the endangered houses could be turned into bed & breakfast places, "which would still be But today the local office of the Institute of Mo- worth the investment in spite of the high cost of numents is highly understaffed. The town's traditio- renovations." Marketing would only be prioritised nal houses formally enjoy very strong legal protecti- once the city offers minimal conditions to tourists. on, but in practice neglect and lack of aesthetic care "We are trying to put infrastructure before marke- are often visible, and illegal construction, as elsewhe- ting," Yarhouse said. The danger with focusing on re in Albania, is taking a toll on Gjirokaster's land- marketing lies in the high expectations tourists inva- scape. "In the museum zone of the city there are riably have when arriving at a UNESCO site. "If they hundreds of bits of illegal construction not follo- are not properly prepared, tourists might go back wing historical guidelines," David Bragg, a U.S. and say they did not find the image that was being citizen who was assigned to Gjirokaster by Peace promoted to correspond to reality," Tare told IPS. Corps, a humanitarian organisation, and who is "People are not coming to Gjirokaster because of the now helping get tourism information across lack preparedness for tourism." through a series of projects in cooperation with Tare is also among the founders of one of the United Nations Development Programme Albania's most successful tourist destinations, the (UNDP) told IPS. "And while laws are there, National Park in Southern Albania that there is no will or capacity to implement them." due to its archaeological and environmental value When the town was included in UNESCO's heri- has become, together with Gjirokaster, the only tage list, many locals thought the West had come to other UNESCO site in Albania. "Butrint was suc- save Gjirokaster from its neglect. But little has cessful because we invested and built bridges with changed and high expectations have given place to the communities," he says. "The moment you don't sour feelings. "Nothing has improved here," Sofia, engage them you are going to have problems. They an aged local ethnic Greek told IPS. "Ever since the are shareholders of what happens to their places. change of regime things get worse by the year." "The Doing tourism with the presence of locals is some- perception is that UNESCO would solve its pro- thing very new in Albania, it should become a blems," explains Auron Tare, director of the national strategy." (Reported in July 2007) „ 15 The ancient city wall and towers of Durrës (Klaus Friedl 2007)

16 Ambitious New Framework To Regulate Tourism

By Alba Çela

irana - Tourism, one of the economic priori- Tourists have been given rights to register claims Tties of the administration, will now be regula- and complaints in order to receive refunds. This ted by a new law. The law replaces the older 1993 procedure has been assigned to the Office for legislation, and takes into account the market Tourist Assistance. A tourist community protec- conditions under which the tourism industry is ted by law is now seen as the first serious step coming up. The law targets major issues related towards improving the business climate of tour- to tourism such as licensing and monitoring tour- ism in Albania. But the increased regulation has ism operators to guarantee quality of service. It brought some complaints too, and not everyone provides for production of continuous and reliab- has welcomed all the new provisions. le statistics on tourist numbers. And it holds out a "The government requires us to present a list comprehensive vision for tourism development. of customers 48 hours before they reach the bor- The law passed in May is among a series of der checkpoint," Pandeli Sotiri, owner of a tour- measures taken this year, such as development of ism agency in Saranda told IPS. "But we operate the National Cultural Tourism Strategy and the on the basis of attracting tourists just for one day. Tourism Development Strategy 2012 with the aim These customers usually come from Corfu and of generating at least 15 percent of gross national spontaneously decide to spend one day in income by that year. 'Albania, Europe's last Saranda. I don't know how to cope with this new secret!' is the slogan of the season accompanying regulation." But a solid legal framework can be the new policies. The limitation of Albania's expo- good news for business if correctly implemented. sure is being built now as its strength. It guarantees stability and standards, and sends a positive signal to customers that in turn helps “Europe's last secret” business and investment. The new law liberalises substantially the gran- Investment of two million euros ting of licence to tourist agencies in a move to increase competition. The law also guarantees New investments in the field are not lacking. that Albania will soon have healthy auditing and "An investment of two million euros has been inspecting capacities. The law seeks to protect committed to Durres for this tourist season," says tourists, and the image of Albanian tourism, from Andrea Xhovara, head of the Chamber of Com- unprofessional practices. "It will also prevent merce of Durres. Durres has traditionally been ugly deformations such as the advent of sexual the biggest tourist draw, bringing in revenues last tourism or money laundering through this trade," year of 120 million euro from 150,000 tourists. The former tourism minister Bujar Leskaj, who was a law requires government agencies to coordinate member of the drafting committee for the new their actions efficiently in order to facilitate tour- law, told IPS. ism. In a recent decision the Interior Ministry One of the more positive provisions of this used this framework to ban heavy load trucks new law is financial assistance through a special from roads linking tourist sites, in an attempt to development fund for small, private businesses. ease traffic congestion and make the sites more The fund will be administered by the National appealing to visitors. Tourism Agency operating under the Ministry of As the tourist season progresses, many busi- Tourism. The agency will also coordinate efforts nesses are looking to more rapid implementation of the central and local government as well as of the new law. The new law was initiated to com- non-governmental organisations and local busi- ply with the Stabilisation and Association nesses to promote tourism. Agreement (SAA) signed in June last year to take The provision of a strong legal framework for Albania on the road to the EU. The country is protecting tourists is central to the new law. now on its way. (Reported in July 2007) „ 17 No Time To Waste

By Claudia Ciobanu

irana - Albania cannot hope to become a horities have simply dumped trash into empty Tmajor tourist destination unless it solves its fields close to the residential areas. Two deca- waste management problem. Seeing this, aut- des ago, when the rates of consumption and horities are wasting no more time in taking waste production were much lower, the inap- action. Driving along the coast of the Adriatic propriateness of the method passed unnoticed. and Ionian seas from capital Tirana to southern Now, the trash is too much and too pollutant. Betrint presents picturesque scenery, most impressively the high reflected in Piles of trash, clouds of smoke the transparent sea of the southern riviera. But a closer look reveals the destructive effects of Over the past years, the authorities and spe- human activity. Piles of trash, comprising very cialised civil society organisations have started visibly beer bottles and plastic wrappers, are a working their way through the problem of solid common sight on the coast, even in remote waste. Fadil Nasufi, mayor of Berat, one of the pastures. There are not enough waste bins most important towns in the country, says his along the way, or at restaurants. municipality is preparing a plan to build an ecological waste processing system. The popu- Rapid increase in consumption lation will be charged a yearly tax for a solid waste to be built and operated close to the "One of the things tourists coming here com- town. The mayor offered few details about the plain most about is garbage," says Kate Yarhouse, project, or on how waste is being handled pre- working for Peace Corps USA for the promotion sently. But from the beautiful medieval castle of tourism in Albania. Albania's waste manage- towering over the town, one can see piles of ment facilities were overwhelmed by the rapid trash emitting clouds of smoke. The picture is increase in consumption in the 1990s after the fall similar in most Albanian cities. Capital Tirana of state socialism and the consequent opening up and the nearby urban areas comprising the of the country. Proper waste treatment systems large city Durres dump their waste in nearby were not set up. Garbage collection facilities since Shara fields. The population of the neigh- then have simply not coped with the mounting bouring villages is now getting increasingly waste. The sewage produced by Albanian cities concerned about the health risks arising from ends up, untreated, in the sea. Merita Mansaku- the garbage, and the municipality now plans to Meksi, an expert in waste management working build a landfill. Tirana is one of only three cities for the Environmental Centre for Development in Albania to have concrete plans for construc- Education and Networking, warns that although ting a landfill. The other two are Vlora and the water is largely safe for swimmers at the Shkonder. The rest of the municipalities, like moment, the situation is not sustainable. Berat, have good intentions, not projects on the "Not only is sewage water dumped into the way. sea, but also used oil from restaurants and industrial production, and this increases the Waste from danger," Mansaku-Meksi told IPS. Arian Gace, national coordinator at the Global Environment But people are becoming increasingly aware Facility (GEF) Albania, says that most coastal of the need to deal with the garbage ecological- towns in the country now have plans to deve- ly. Xhemal Mato, executive director of the lop sewage collection and treatment facilities. Ecomovement Centre sees hope in the success- Kavaja, close to Tirana, has already built a ful campaign led by his organisation against modern system of sewage collection, with the building of an incinerator for Tirana. financial assistance from the German KfW The authorities had signed an agreement Development Bank. But most municipalities are with Italian company Albanianbeg Ambient for still at the planning stage. building such a plant. Under those plans, the The country faces similar problems with Albanian government would support the cost solid waste management. Traditionally, the aut- of constructing the incinerator with credit from 18 The thermal springs in Elbasan are mostly used by the locals, who ignore the rubbbsh that is cumulating (Klaus Friedl 2007)

the Italian government. Given that an incinera- not sure that this means the incinerator will tor needs to be used at full capacity to operate never be built," Xhemal Mato told IPS. "But it is properly, and that the trash produced by Tirana an important step for us." would only require 40 percent of the capacity, it Merita Mansaku-Meksi also has some small was planned that Albanianbeg would bring victories to boast in the battle against waste. waste from Italy to be incinerated in Albania. Her NGO is running awareness campaigns But the local population did not want Italy's about recycling in 14 schools in Tirana. She is trash burnt in Tirana. Mobilised by NGOs, they also involved in a project to teach small local staged protests against the incinerator and for- communities around the capital how to separate ced their politicians to cancel the deal. "We are and recycle their trash. (Reported in July 2007) „ 19 Preserving A Beauty Called Biodiversity

By Vesna Peric Zimonjic

elipoja - It takes a short walk from the people and the "wild developers" out to exploit Vfamous Velipoja beach in Shkodra town on natural resources without concern for consequen- the Adriatic coast to put behind the stresses of ces. modern life, and the beach attractions themsel- Albania has ratified most international proto- ves. The walk takes you to the Buna Delta cols on environmental issues, but it lacks the Reservation, a marshy confluence of the 44 km mechanism to implement them. "Non-govern- waterway that flows from Shkodra into the mental organisations (NGOs) that work to raise Adriatic. The silence of the cool forest is broken awareness are often viewed as enemies," Mato only by twittering birds and the whispers of rare said. "However, we did have some important suc- visitors heading for bird watching towers or cess. It was the action to prevent adoption of the exploring the banks of the Buna. The bird wat- law that would allow genetically modified organ- chers will see loggerhead turtles, pygmy cormo- isms (GMOs) freely to enter the country. We are rants, Adriatic pelicans and rare Levant sparrow very proud of that." hawks, among many others. Parts of this large Albania still has naturally grown food of nature reserve are home also to boar, foxes and excellent quality. Neat fields of , or jackals. sunflower are spread out in the lowlands of cen- tral and . Homegrown quality Forty-five years of isolation are the pride of the nation. Sheep and cows can be seen in green fields along the roads This reservation is one of several in Albania. that connect capital Tirana with the central town Forty-five years of isolation under communist Berat and northern town Shkodra. Hens and rule did mean some protection to wildlife and ducks can be seen in the backyards of modest far- biodiversity. Post-communist development over mers' homes, well fed by home-grown corn. the last 17 years has brought new challenges, and the reserves are now a vital preservation move. Last development chance? "We have seen the pollution costs of develop- ment," Xhemail Mato, head of the Association for "Albania wants to develop tourism, and this is Environmental Protection told IPS. "This country its last development chance," Mato said. "In was dubbed the first in Europe for its biodiversi- order to achieve that, it counts on its good ty not so long ago. However, things have changed nature. We have to develop eco-awareness here since 1990. Now, a lot has to be done to preserve in order to accomplish that goal." Among the the good nature." most interesting spots for tourism development Studies by the United Nations Development are the five along the Adriatic and Ionian Programme (UNDP) and the United Nations coast. They once spread over more than 70,000 Environmental Programme (UNEP) show that hectares. But more than 15,000 hectares were Albania suffers from one of the highest rates of drained in the 1960s to reclaim fertile and to biodiversity loss in Europe. Deforestation, soil eradicate malaria. One of them, the Karavasta erosion, uncontrolled land use and pollution are in the south, is considered of particular rapidly destroying precious resources. "Some 30 importance. It has been placed under a special percent of Albania's forests have been destroyed management and protection programme now to since 1990," Mato said. "Destruction is faster than save its unique biodiversity of , birds and the process of raising awareness among people." . The battle for preserving the richness of biodi- Another two, Narta and Orikumi, are also versity and natural resources is now on. Environ- under environmentalists' watch. Efforts to halt mentalists are fighting to raise awareness among illegal sand digging, illegal construction and 20 The ancient castle above the city center of Shkodër (Klaus Friedl 2007) waste dumping are under way. Tree planting has both international organisations and local NGOs. started around Orikumi, but Narta is facing pro- "The system needs to be changed," he said. blems. Oil-drilling has begun here, preventing "Organisations boasted that 'money went for wol- further environment protection projects. ves' or 'money went to pelicans', but no one said Despite such setbacks, considerable progress there were no roads to reach the wolves or peli- is afoot across Albania. "All the projects for envi- cans. One has to keep in mind the human dimen- ronment protection need to have measurable sion of projects in order to have success." impact on biodiversity," says Arian Gace, natio- Albania is not making its efforts alone. It is nal coordinator for the Global Environmental cooperating with neighbour . The Facility (GEF), an NGO that helps developing two share the large Shkodra Lake and Buna delta. nations fund programmes to protect nature. The neighbours are involved in a joint project for "Programmes for biodiversity protection sustainable development through a broader enga- should also be coupled in time with investment gement of people from local fishing villages, and for the improvement of life of people." Gace is employment of the young in the tourism industry. critical of the funding that came to Albania for This also means saving the unique biodiversity of years, driven by romantic views on nature among the shared delta. (Reported in July 2007) „ 21 Energy Needs Clash With Tourism

By Claudia Ciobanu

lora - The building of a thermal power plant ted Albanian Macedonian Bulgarian Oil Vin Vlora could reduce Albania's electricity Corporation (AMBO) pipeline. The 870 km deficit, but it would also damage one of the coun- Burgas-Vlora oil duct is still in the planning stage. try's most beautiful tourist destinations. The local When completed, it would carry around 35 milli- population is fighting to have the factory built on tonnes of crude oil yearly, brought from elsewhere. The 3.2 million inhabitants of Albania and the Caspian Sea. have gotten used to daily power cuts. At the moment, the country can only meet half its elec- Inhabitants of Vlora protest tricity needs. Roughly 90 percent of these are While the international financial institutions and covered by hydropower, and this generation is the Albanian authorities speak of the benefits of the dependent on weather conditions. thermal plant, the inhabitants of Vlora have been Power consumption has increased dramatical- protesting for the past three years against the plant. ly over the past two decades. Formerly a state "Despite the government's assurances that the power socialist country, Albania has established a demo- plant should provide a remedy to the increasingly cratic system and is moving to liberalise the eco- acute energy situation in Albania, there are indicati- nomy. In order to increase domestic power pro- ons that the fulfilment of Albania's energy demand duction, the Albanian Power Corporation (KESH) features only as secondary to the export of electricity -- in cooperation with the World Bank, the to the European energy market, particularly the European Bank for Reconstruction and Deve- Italian market," Aleksander Mita, representative of lopment (EBRD) and the European Investment the Alliance for the Protection of Vlora Gulf said in a Bank (EIB) -- plans to construct an oil-fuelled report prepared for the CEE Bankwatch Network, an thermal power plant in Vlora, about 100km south independent group monitoring loans in the region. of Tirana. As a condition for the granting of loans by the Not a tourist attraction international financial institutions, Italian electricity company ENEL is assisting KESH to manage Situated off the Adriatic coast in south-western Albania's power production and distribution system. Albania, Vlora is one of the most popular tourist Still, the main concern of the inhabitants of Vlora is destinations in the country. Beautiful beaches and not where the energy will go; it is the chosen location lagoons, as well as ancient and medieval monu- of the plant. "Albania needs a lot of energy, and we ments make it an appealing travel destination. are not opposed even to oil-produced energy, but we Vlora is also famous for its biodiversity and its are opposed to the site - the beach resort and protec- , oil and fish. "The Vlora power plant ted area chosen," Aleksander Mita told IPS. The plant will contribute to an increase in Albania's electri- would be part of an industrial park to be created in city production, diversify domestic generation the region. The industrial park is projected to cover a and reduce excessive dependence on electricity 560 hectare area, close to several protected lagoons. imports," says Iftikhar Khalil, World Bank mana- Given that the entire city area of Vlora is 1120 hecta- ger for the project. res, and that the industrial zone will be located 1.5 The plant is expected to have a production km from the centre within a residential area, town capacity of 97 megawatts. The construction costs people are worried about the negative impact on are estimated around 110 million euro. To cover social life and on the tourism potential. the expenses, KESH will take a 40 million euro According to the Environmental Impact loan from ERBD. The World Bank and the EIB Assessment (EIA) done at the request of the World will also cover a part of the expenses - as present Bank, the building of a thermal plant in Vlora will plans go. Under the project, the thermal plant will entail a series of negative consequences: polluting run on fuel brought through the oil and gas ter- emissions in the air (sulphur dioxide, nitrogen oxi- minal La Petrolifera Italo-Rumena and the projec- des, carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide and trace 22 The ‘’ stretching between Vlorë and Butrint (Klaus Friedl 2007) metals), oil spills, noise, water intakes and tempera- Convention (on Access to Information, Public ture changes that will alter the of the Participation in Decision-making and Access to lagoon waters. Justice in Environmental Matters). The World Bank insists that measures will be The NGOs have also been complaining to the taken to limit the damage, and to adhere to European World Bank, ERDB and EIB, and have filed crimi- Union level environmental standards. But in spite of nal charges against the minister for energy and efforts by the international financial institutions to transport for abusing the legislation on protected reassure them, the inhabitants of Vlora remain suspi- areas. A World Bank inspection panel visited cious about the plant. Local NGOs have been organi- Vlora Jun. 26-27 to evaluate the risks associated sing numerous public protests. They have also with the building of the thermal plant there. The appealed to the Aarhus Convention Compliance executive board of the Bank is expected to take a Committee, whose provisional report in March final decision within a month whether it will keep 2007 declared the Albanian government non- up with its plans to have the thermal plant built in compliant with several articles of the Aarhus Vlora. (Reported in July 2007) „ 23 City center of Tirana with a view of the Academy of Arts (Photo: Frank Stueken 2007)

24 A Provincial Capital On The Move

By Claudia Ciobanu

irana - Friendly, small-scale and cheap, colourful we have the Mediterranean sun and it's a crime Tand somewhat improvised, Tirana, like its not to make the most of it," says Alba, a young people, seems to be happy and curious about any journalist living in Tirana. visitor. Whether it can preserve this charm remains to Perhaps the most distinguishable feature of Tirana be seen. The capital of Albania, Tirana, hosts roughly is its colourful buildings. Like in most Eastern 750,000 of the country's total of 3.2 million people. Its European cities, the capital's residential blocks were population increased threefold over the past decade. built during socialism in the characteristic style of the After the fall of state socialism in 1989 and, conse- times: minimalist, functional and uniform. In the quently, the closing down of industries that were early 2000s, as a symbolic gesture of breaking with supported by the state, and after the financial cri- the past, the mayor of Tirana decided to have all the sis in 1997, many people in the country were left grey buildings painted in bright colours. While some jobless and poor. Those who did not go abroad appreciate the initiative of mayor as brin- saw no choice but to move to the capital. In ging change and variety, others are critical of the Tirana, they found more and more work in the chaotic look of the blocks, arguably bordering kitch. services sector, which has been expanding follo- As Tirana quickly modernises, its inhabitants and wing the liberalisation of the economy. authorities are faced with a dilemma. Whether they But, in spite of its rapid growth, the capital are aware of it or not at the moment, the people of retains an air of communal life, which can be refres- Tirana will choose between developing "at any cost", hing for a Western tourist accustomed to big city or expanding while also preserving the sense of com- alienation. Tirana might be the only European capital munity, staying in touch with old customs and natu- where people are still ready to interrupt any activity ral surroundings. they pursue in order to show a confused traveller around. Albanians are willing to communicate with Invading wild nature foreigners and can do so in many languages. While A comparison between the scenery on opposite English may be useless in some parts of Tirana, shores of the artificial lake illustrates this crossroads. Albanians will usually understand Italian and, often- On one side, continuous construction takes place times, Greek. Many of them work in these countries. unauthorised and unchecked. Invading the wild Others have picked up Italian from television. nature and ignoring urban planning, people raise An air of communal life high buildings in expectation of a boom in real estate. On the other side of the lake, a large park remains a Moving in from small towns and villages, people favourite hideout from the heat and noise of the city. have brought along old habits. One of the most The inhabitants of Tirana say the town hall has plans crowded places in Tirana is the promenade next to to bring down the unauthorised buildings. But it the artificial lake. Young girls stroll up and down the remains to be seen whether the municipality can alley next to the water, showing off their best. The resist pressure from the businesses. The present local smell of barbeque rising from the nearby terraces administration has so far proven concerned with the brings a delicious aroma to the street. That combi- environment and the community. The current mayor, nes with the sight of fresh and vegetables, Socialist Edi Rama, has cleaned up the area around sold at stands on most sidewalks in the city. From the central square, getting rid of the countless kiosks imported fruit, perfectly equal in size, to the local and small bars, a heaven for drug trafficking. Instead, outrageously shaped 'heart of the ox' tomatoes, he created a new park for the city. Much remains to anything can be found, and cheap. be done though, like creating ecological solid waste As in any other city in the Balkans, coffee shops and sewage management systems. are the most common sight on the streets of Tirana. Tirana is nowadays going through one of its most Modest ones, with just one or two tables, where only dynamic periods. At the moment, it represents one of the locals, usually men, dare to sit down, and posh the best locations to observe the transformation from ones, frequented by the Tirana youth, expats and socialism to liberalism and its impact on the social foreign tourists, where prices compare to those in the fabric. "Visitors appreciate the fact that Albania is just West. And as in any other Mediterranean city, freshly different from what they have seen before," says Kate washed clothes hang from all the balconies of Yarhouse, a Peace Corps activist working in the coun- apartment blocks, as well as from the windows of try. "Albania is not perfect, but people who come here fancy hotels in the centre. "There is no other way, don't seem to mind that." (Reported in July 2007) „ 25 Downtown Korçë (Klaus Friedl 2007)

26 But Where Are the Differences?

By Vesna Peric Zimonjic

irana - People across the Balkans have much sale for a single Euro, in the hope that some busi- Tin common, forget the conflicts of the recent nessman might want to modernise the facilities or distant past, and the efforts of politicians to and resume production. In , several old convince them how "different" or "distinctive" sugar mills were turned into highly profitable fac- they are. It takes only a couple of days for a Serb tories this way. The same cannot be said for once to figure in Tirana how children go to "skholla", successful kombinati in Bosnia-Herze- just as Serbian children go to "skola". Their govina, sold 10 years ago for one German Mark parents could work in "kancellari" (office) in Tira- each. They never reopened. Albania is having a go na, or "kancelarija" in Belgrade. At home, they at such sales now. "We plan to introduce a pro- tuck into that fermented yellow cheese "kachka- gramme called 'Albania for one Euro'," deputy vali" in Tirana or "kackavalj" in Belgrade, while minister for foreign affairs Edith Harxhi told IPS. watching "reklame" (advertisements). Afterwards "We hope this might attract investors." in either country they might have some "supa" (soup) or "pita" (pie). On the road to Europe And in either country you could go shopping And like the other nations in the region, for "bluze" (blouses) and "pantalone" (trousers). Albania is looking for new wealth through tour- After hundreds of years both countries of today ism. That has brought some healthy competition, spent under the Ottoman Turkish rule, language but also cooperation, with many countries loo- and ways had to find commonness. But it is more king at least in part for tourists continuing on than language that evokes similarities. It's just their way from the other. Meanwhile, like many everyday ways that are so similar. In the Alba- other people in the region, large numbers of nian city Shkodra, 150 km north of the capital, Albanians live off remittances sent by family neatly dressed pensioners sit on park benches, members who migrated abroad. Remittances regardless of the heat, playing chess. The picture make some 13 percent of country's gross national can be strikingly similar in Serbian capital income. Remittances had kept many going in Belgrade or Bosnian capital Sarajevo. Serbia during the years of the sanctions, from 1992 Defunct factory complexes until 2000. Work was not an option at the time, just as it is not in today's Montenegro. In the evening, a downtown stroll or "xhiro" is "This makes people lazy," environmental acti- a must in Shkoder. So is the "korzo" in, say, vist Arian Gace told IPS. "But it cannot be stop- Mostar in Bosnia-Herzegovina, or in towns in ped; we lack the culture of parents being strict Serbia. But there is more to similarity than a stroll with their children. They let them do whatever or two. Nations in the region come from a similar they want, as if they want to recover the time lost past, and are looking to a similar future. Alba- in the past when we had nothing." "We have so nians are struggling to leave a Stalinist past much in common, all people around," Ajet behind. That past stands like the defunct factory Nallbani, manager of the Berat Institut of Cultural complexes near Shkodra and in Berat, 120 km Monuments told IPS. Albanians, Bosniaks, south. These factories used to produce , Kosovars and Montenegrins are all "on the same fertilisers and other goods. road," he said. "That is the road to Europe, the Similar complexes, the "kombinati" (combined only one for us." And that, finally, should dissol- factories) in both Albanian and other Balkans ve some of today's political differences. "Once languages, stand along the roads of Bosnia or we are close to Europe, we'll have to put behind Serbia. After capitalism entered the region in the all those nasty things we carry around, like 1990s, few were interested in buying them or wars and ethnic tension. That is the only real investing in them. Everywhere, many of these chance for us, and people here are ready for "white elephants" of the communist era are on that," Nallbani said. (Reported in July 2007) „ 27 Saving Beaches For Others - And Itself By Claudia Ciobanu

irana - Albania has launched a new program- lars. Preserving natural habitat will not be an easy Tme to save its beaches for tourists - and from task. "Albania cannot afford the luxury to keep tourists. Given its need for income from tourism, the entire coast undeveloped and in a natural Albania cannot turn away from development of state," Gace said. Mass tourism will be unavoida- infrastructure for visitors. Which means that ble in some areas, he said. But some income from "Albania is not in a position to make great sacrifi- mass tourism could pay for preservation of other ces for the environment," Arian Gace, national regions for eco-tourism, he said. coordinator for the Global Environment Facility (GEF) small grants programme told IPS. But there Regions for eco-tourism is still much to preserve. Home to 3.2 million people, Albania is among A good deal of the northern coast has been the poorest countries in Europe. Most of its natio- damaged already, and Gace is looking to pro- nal industry collapsed with the fall of state socia- grammes to preserve the south. Efforts are being lism in the early 1990s. Much hope for revival made already to preserve the coast, he said. now rests on tourism. Foreign visitors are still to Wastewater processing facilities are being set up discover the pristine beaches in the south or the in most cities on the southern coast. But eventual- inhabited fortresses in Berat and Girokastra. "This ly the coast can be protected only if more areas country has astonishing nature, which is entirely are granted protection status, Gace said. unknown to people who come here," says Gent According to a study published by the Council of Mati from the tourism agency Outdoors Albania. Europe, protected areas in Albania cover a surfa- Mati mentions primarily the "great sea coast, ce of 166.611 hectares, 5.8 percent of the country's sandy, rocky and very different." area. Some parts of the coast are far too damaged to be presented as attractions. "Swimming in the Strategy and action plan sea at Durres is like entering a lake next to an oil distillery," said Giorgos Adoniu, a Greek tourist The coast stretches 470 km along the Adriatic travelling along the Albanian coast. "The water to the west and the further south. The was greenish, and the bottom of the sea covered popularity of the Dalmatian region in and in slime." of the Italian and Greek Mediterranean coasts suggests that the could bene- Protection of remote shores fit enormously from exploitation of its seashore. But mass tourism has a flip side; it damages the Situated less than an hour's drive from capital environment and disrupts the rhythm of local Tirana, Durres is the second largest city in communities. And that has led Albanian authori- Albania. It also has the second largest concentra- ties to promote eco-tourism, and not just mass tion of industry. The beaches around Durres are tourism. the most popular holiday destination for Tirana The government launched a 'strategy and residents. People have learnt to ignore the poor action plan for the development of the Albanian quality of the water. "Pollution from sewage that tourism sector based on cultural and environ- comes straight into the sea from nearby houses mental tourism' last year. The United Nations and hotels is alarming for the future of tourism Development Programme (UNDP) is supporting here," says Xhemal Mato, executive director of the this programme with more than 3.5 million dol- Ecomovement Centre. 28 Still unspoiled: the beautiful shingle beach in Dhermi (Klaus Friedl 2007)

But conditions improve radically as one tra- ges and, in a rather different way, some of the half vels south. Vlora and Saranda are surrounded by million bunkers Communist leader Enver Hoxha beautiful, unspoilt beaches. But construction is built during the Cold War years. now booming here too. Many of the new hotels If kept unspoilt, the small beaches of the south and restaurants are unauthorised, as in many will remain ideal destinations for eco-tourism. In parts of Albania. This is where Gace suggests aut- , a small beach close to Saranda, one can horities could intervene to tax builders, and use rent a water bicycle for less than three euro to litt- that revenue for protection of remote shores. The le islets, all uninhabited. Few foreign tourists drive on a narrow mountain road along the sout- come here. "It's not necessary to over-develop in hern coast offers breathtaking views. The only order to attract tourists to such wonderful pla- signs of human presence are the traditional villa- ces," says Adoniu. (Reported in July 2007) „ 29 Time To Know The Unknown Interview with Speaker of the Albanian Parliament Jozefina Topalli

irana - Albania is too often and too superficially licensing procedures and by lowering fiscal taxes. Tdescribed as "a European country little is known Foreign investments are growing. We have had very about." The issues the nation of 3.1 million is facing important foreign investors who have already start- on its thorny road of development and towards ed work in Albania, but we are expecting more of democracy are also often met with little knowledge them to come and invest in our wonderful seaside. and loads of prejudice abroad. High on the political IPS: Which are the most supportive EU countries in the agenda of the nation now are economic development integration process? and access to the , in order to finally provide better prospects to an eager population after Jozefina Topalli: The process of Albania's integrati- decades of troubled history. Modern, educated and on to the EU is undergoing a very important step -- European-oriented young leaders of Albania speak that of ratification of SAA by European member freely on such ambitions, tasks and challenges, stres- states, that is, national parliaments. The pace of ratifi- sing that a lot of hard work has yet to be done. cation is unique. In ten months, 10 European parlia- Among the most prominent is surely the Speaker of ments like those of , , the Chamber Albanian Parliament Jozefina Topalli, the first of Deputies and Senate of , , , woman in this position. Topalli has headed the 140- , , , and Ireland voted seat parliament for two years now. in favour of Albania's integration to EU by ratifying the SAA. Other national parliaments are going IPS: Albania has signed the Stabilisation and Association through the same procedures and will ratify it soon. Agreement (SAA) with the European Union (EU) as the first step towards EU membership. What does this mean? IPS: Are neighbours such as Italy or Greece particularly supporting the negotiation process? Jozefina Topalli: Signing of the SAA Agreement between Albania and the EU a year ago was percei- Jozefina Topalli: I would like to stress here that sub- ved by all Albanians as the most important event in stantial support was provided to us not only from the history of Albanian democracy, after long and our neighbours, but from other countries, which alt- continuous efforts to consolidate the rule of law and hough geographically distant, were quite close to us in democracy. This opened a new chapter to Albania, this process. SAAratification constitutes a great support that of integration into European structures. It is to us. This encourages us to move ahead on this road. I obvious that this agreement has as its final goal would like to mention here the assistance of , Albania's integration into EU. We are doing our Italy, , and many more. utmost to perform major reforms in every aspect of IPS: How long could the negotiations process for EU life. Each article of this Agreement is an obligation membership last? to be met by us, turning them into benchmarks that Jozefina Topalli: We sure hope that this process take us to European standards. ends quickly. We know that situation within EU is IPS: What does Albania expect from this agreement? not favourable at this moment, as with the inner Jozefina Topalli: We certainly expect a lot from this debates related to approval of the Constitution. agreement, but this does not imply that everything However, this is not discouraging to us. On the con- would come out of the blue. We are not in the emer- trary, this gives us confidence to work harder in gency stage. We are ready to work closely as part- order to deserve integration into EU; to deserve the ners and we are conscious of the fact that member attention and confidence of EU member states and states expect a lot from us. convince them that Albania is serious in its commit- ment to become a member. Declarations of many IPS: What do the Albanians expect? leaders of EU member states that Europe is not com- Jozefina Topalli: I believe that what Albanians plete without the Balkan countries are realistic and expect now is a solid rule of law. We want to reward very encouraging for our final goal. the trust placed in us by giving positive tangible IPS: What are the difficulties predicted on the road? results, as well as by offering an altered image to foreigners, an image which is often quite different Jozefina Topalli: We already know that the enlarge- from the perception that Albanians have of themsel- ment process faces hardship. Integration is and must ves and their country. be a process based on merit, and we will do our best to implement and achieve European standards. Our IPS: What has been done in that direction? historical identity and European origin provide us Jozefina Topalli: We are doing our utmost to offer a with the strength to walk the right course and fill the positive climate to foreign investors by facilitating place we deserve within the European family. 30 Jozefina Topalli (Photo: www.senat.be 2007)

IPS: What are the challenges? Jozefina Topalli: Functioning through the majority election system is the true reason that the number of Jozefina Topalli: We have major challenges facing women in Albanian politics is lower than in other us, like reforms in the judiciary and election reform, countries. It is not that this number is considerably zero tolerance fight against organised crime and ter- bigger in France or Italy, countries with a long history rorism, follow-up reforms in the economy etc. These of development and emancipation and historical are the priorities we are determined to achieve. feminist movements. The replacement of Albania's IPS: Along with an unreal image of the role of women in majority electoral system with a quota system might family and society, painted in favourable yet untrue not be the best solution and the most preferred one, colours in the old times, Albania has inherited problems but there is no other solution for the start of women related to patriarchal and clan organised society. How who want to embark on a political career. does the challenge of greater role of women fit into the IPS: What can or does make a woman a successful in poli- activities of a parliamentary speaker or the career of poli- tics in Albania? tically active women in general? Jozefina Topalli: Family tradition, education, politi- Jozefina Topalli: I never consider the daily challen- cal instinct, strong will and charisma are chief helping ge as one narrowly related to woman emancipation pillars for a woman to move up the career stages and and her better representation in a contest with men. become a part of political leadership. I would like to A competition is an endeavour for personal repre- say that, at the beginning of my career, I learned to sentation and it should be treated like that. choose my battles as far as their importance is concer- IPS: You were not frightened by the fate of your family ned, I learned to focus on the key issues, to face them members who suffered so much under the old dictatorial, head on, but more importantly, I learned to see posi- communist regime. As a representative of the Democratic tive elements even in negative issues. I can say with Party of Sali , the former president and current deep conviction that family discipline is one element Prime Minister, was it an easy encounter while facing I will not forget, which helped me quite a lot along men rivals in the majority electoral system of Albania? the way. (Reported in June 2007) „ 31 Tourism Brings Environmental Challenge By Vesna Peric Zimonjic

irana - It was not so long ago that Albania, a Montenegro. There is a large Albanian population Ttiny nation of 3.1 million in the western Balkans outside the region as well. Official estimates put the remained off route for hundreds of thousands of number in the United States, , Germany, tourists who rushed to the Adriatic coast for their Greece and Italy at another two million. summer vacations. But things have changed in this In recent years Albanians migrated out in all part of the world, and thousands of visitors now directions, chasing every opportunity. Some fled undertake what seems to be a very logical journey: illegally across the snowy mountain passes to they continue south from the beautiful Croatian and or Macedonia. Others took boats across the Montenegrin coasts to explore Albania. Albania, Adriatic to Italy. No one keeps statistics how many they discover, is a land of unexpected beauty, bre- died trying to flee. People fled what is now simply athtaking mountains and a stunning 362 km coast. described as a "troubled past". That includes the era It is a country also with a discreet aroma of a recent of former autocratic communist ruler Enver Hoxha, and secretive past. Albania emerged from decades who died in 1985. Decades of his rule since World of self-isolation only 17 years ago. War II saw the country swing from friendship with "It is the taste of the unknown they usually have in former Yugoslavia in the 1940s to closer relations mind when planning the visit," tourist guide Argon with the former Soviet Union until the late 1960s. Ghuri told IPS, pointing at a group of 10 Japanese tou- Then followed a sharp turn towards China, earlier rists he took to the main Skenderbej Square of Tirana. dismissed as an adequate communist friend. "The Japanese usually go to the Croatian and Montenegrin coast first and end up their 10-day visit Tourism as a chance and challenge to the region with Albania," he added. The 1990s and the introduction of the multi-party 900,000 visitors came last year system saw not only major political changes, but the collapse of the state-controlled economy. One conse- This is how some 10 percent of 900,000 visitors quence was the violent end of privately introduced came into the country last year, according to the pyramid saving schemes in 1997. In 1999, more than United Nations Development Programme UNDP). 500,000 ethnic Albanians were pushed into the coun- But revenue from tourism still makes for only 3.8 per- try from Kosovo, following a brutal campaign by cent of the country's . There is Serbian security forces. Recovery from all this has no separate ministry for what some see as Albania's been slow. But tourism is seen now as the most fastest developing industry. Tourism, culture, youth important tool for it. "We had so many beginnings in and sports are under the umbrella of a single mini- the past decades," Gent Mati who owns the stry. The UNDP is currently helping Albania with its Outdoors Albania travel business told IPS. "Tourism Eco and Cultural Tourism Support Programme to is our next best chance and challenge." promote the potential of Albania abroad. But Xhemail Mato, who heads the Association for "Some 55 percent of exactly 914,046 visitors last Environmental Protection, is concerned about the year were ethnic Albanians from the neighbourhood environment, which began to suffer after 1991. The - Kosovo, Macedonia and Montenegro - who visited country lacked proper regulation in the 1990s, but their families and friends or went to the coast," UNDP was not short of entrepreneurs seeking quick pro- programme manager Lauren Bohatka told IPS. About fit. They abused the legal vacuum, and created two million ethnic Albanians live in Kosovo, and hun- chaos through unregulated construction. "Tourism dreds of thousands in neighbouring Macedonia and is the only chance for Albania, in the economic and 32 Albanian Children (Klaus Friedl 2007)

development sense, as we barely produce any- rest points in order to attract more tourists. Vividly thing," Mato said. "However, development is quik- painted high rises, mostly built without permission ker than regulation; destruction of the environment in the past decade, have crowded Durres. No one is faster than the rise of awareness among the thought about the environment; laws came later. people." Mato rides a bicycle around Tirana, a city Sewage was channelled into the sea, close to of 750,000 with more than 200,000 cars. beaches. No one was familiar with waste manage- Albania has seen an explosion of construction, ment, landfills or dumpsites. Garbage is still particularly in the coastal area closest to Tirana, sometimes simply burned. "What was done was where a new highway was built to Durres, some 40 done, but we have to improve it," Mato said. km to the west. This is one of the rare new roads in a "Durres is, unfortunately, a good lesson for a bad country which needs dozens more along major inte- example in Albania." (Reported in June 2007) „ 33 Environment And Tourism Can Hold Hands By Zoltán Dujisin

erat - A pleasant hilly town of narrow, winding the UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific Bstreets, Berat has survived the chaotic urban and Cultural Organisation) World Heritage List with development of and hopes to grasp a the help of foreign experts. Most of Albania still lacks unique opportunity in tourism. But it is also threate- the basic tourism facilities and comfort that visitors ned by the unavoidable environmental and urban expect, and Berat, while being well ahead of most perils of a transition economy. Few European towns Albanian towns, will have to step up efforts if it can offer picturesque ambience and rich cultural heri- wants its infrastructure to meet the requirements of tage without the sight of hordes of tourists, but Berat, those travellers who seek UNESCO sights. The pro- one of the oldest cities in Albania, is a special place cess has already been rewarding, as international where the visitor too, feels special. While roaming cooperation has "helped the city's experts learn from the white streets of this 65,000 inhabitant town, preservation techniques elsewhere," Nasufi told IPS. the curiosity of the traveller towards the locals But funds are still lacking. will be reciprocated, as most tourists have not yet UNESCO does not automatically provide the heard of this secret jewel of the Balkans. money, but municipal officials seem confident it will Only one sixth of visitors to Berat are foreigners, indirectly bring much needed financing, and not only and those holding a foreign passport are usually eth- by attracting wealthy visitors. "The municipality nic Albanians from neighbouring countries. Human expects this will increase awareness of the city's value settlements have existed in Berat for 4,000 years and within regional and national authorities and even the city nowadays correctly symbolizes some of foreign donors," Nasufi says. "It will work as a green Albania's most characteristics features: a land for light for us; it will put us in the world map." But the which many empires have spilled blood but also mayor is aware nothing will happen if citizens sit on where religious cohabitation has endured more than their backs and wait for a miracle. Calling for increa- anywhere else in the region. Illyrian tribes, Macedo- sed citizen awareness, Nasufi warns "we will have to nian, Roman, Slav, Byzantine and Ottoman rule have work by ourselves too." all left their mark, but nothing amazes visitors more than the ancient mosques and orthodox churches Working on waste management that attest to a religious tolerance still prevailing International cooperation has brought the town in this mostly Muslim country. much more than just dreams of tourism: some of the New dimensions post-socialism environmental challenges go well beyond it, though they cannot be completely disconnected from it. The Designated a 'museum city' under communist municipality is involved in various projects with rule in 1976, its old white houses and monuments international organisations and the European have been spared from socialist urban planning, and Union to solve the town's waste management the regime's atheism campaign did not claim Berat's problems, its biggest environmental threat which, beautiful religious buildings as it did elsewhere in if tackled, could increase the town's tourist poten- the country. Now Fadil Nasufi, mayor of Berat, tial. Most of Albania still relies on incineration as wants additional protection and awareness of the the main waste treatment technology, and Berat is city's value in face of the threats posed by the wild working on a land field for waste management to urban development and environmental neglect be located in the town's outskirts which will that took new dimensions post-socialism. "We are hopefully ensure thorough elimination. in the very early stages of tourism development, Air pollution is not the sole danger. Another vic- but it will allow us to face the challenges and tim is one of Berat's natural assets: the river avoid mistakes," the mayor told IPS. , which runs through the city. For decades, In cooperation with local and national institutions, two factories and the sewage system have dum- Berat's town hall is pushing forward its candidacy to ped their waste into the river. The collapse of state 34 The (Klaus Friedl 2007)

socialism caused the closure of the factories, waste treatment plant away from the city following something which locals did not necessarily wel- an example learnt in Italy. "The waste could be placed come, but the city now only has to deal with the in a chamber and the gas from the decomposition of sewage system which still partly uses the river. biological waste would be collected to produce elec- If properly treated, "the river could be a great asset tric energy, which is badly needed in Albania." for the landscape and for tourism," Vladimir Cela, But in Albania something always seems to responsible for International Relations and Tourism stand on the way of dreams: "We need financing at Berat's municipality told IPS. "We could create a for this," says Cela. A population in need of tour- lake through it in which people can swim and rent ism, electricity and a clean environment would boats." The towns dream, Cela says, is to build a certainly appreciate it. (Reported in June 2007) „ 35 Landing Might Be An Idea By Sanjay Suri

irana - 'What, you haven't been to Albania?' Let's from the clients we bring," said Ferra. Sadly, most Tface it, not a question many of us are ever likely tourists do not travel out just to meet friendly stran- to have been asked. It gets asked about Italy, about gers. A pity, because Albania is quite blessed with the Greece, those two tourism magnets to the west and genius of ignorance just where everyone needs it east of Albania. But Albania is a country you'd usual- most. It hasn't noticed the clash of civilisations. It has ly just fly over on the way from somewhere to a population of Muslims and Christians, but it's never somewhere else in this part of the world. The red line been a Lebanon. What others clash over, Albania on the flight map at the back of your front seat will doesn't notice. At moments you might almost be cut through Albania, not wind up in capital Tirana. tempted to visit the country for Albanians, if not for In this Albania is hardly alone. It's another of those Albania. Quirky tourists can find this packaging of countries that's on the world map but not on the tour- people warmth in an unknown place appealing - and ism map - you 'do' Greece, 'do' Italy, but you don't year by year there are more and more, and not all 'do' Albania. Unless of course you're the sort of tra- quirky either. Because it's well within the normal to veller who does what is not supposed to be done, find the very limitations of infrastructure attractive. and goes where others don't. Or, one who likes to go To look out to a different scene from within standar- where you don't quite know what to expect. Albania dised infrastructure can be like looking out of the is Europe and not European. It's not quite East, and window, rather than visiting; only a step or so ahead not absolutely West. Not developed, but much of it is of looking at a picture. a little more than developing. It's 70 percent Muslim, but not Islamic the way and Pakistan Underdeveloped infrastructure can be. It has infrastructure in ways, not in others. But it is difficult to romanticise poor infrastructu- Personal contact to locals re beyond a point. It isn't cute to get an upset stomach from drinking water that's not clean. And all Alba- All this can sound good to the offbeat traveller, nia's and still do not always provide - because infrastructure can be sometimes only a com- king water anyone can trust. Nor does the appeal of fortable barrier between the visitor and the place visi- the remote work if you can't actually get anywhere. ted. In Albania the visitor is up close with people as The country is only just beginning to put up signs to they live normally, not just with tourism staff trained destinations that might interest tourists. And only to be courteous in the standard way. You're a lot more better infrastructure can bring numbers, and Albania likely to get people than just service. "Personal con- needs more than the odd adventurer, even if those tact between local people and tourists here is a very numbers are growing steadily enough. It needs more special experience," Armand Ferra, general manager than the domestic tourist who travels to friends and of the travel company Albania Holidays told IPS. family, or even the regional tourist, who doesn't "That sort of thing can make or break a holiday. If that always spend a lot. It needs to exchange sights and a interaction is negative, then everything else becomes sense of itself for dollars and euros. secondary. And if that interaction is good, you can Every blend is not inviting. Like that of underde- overlook some of the smaller difficulties." veloped infrastructure and poor regulation that has He must be right, people are some of the happiest led to chaotic building not backed by services to experience of Albania. "Albanians are some of the match. Development in just the way Albania could most hospitable people, this is the reaction we get have done without having messed up the coast at 36 Mountain pass Qafa Murrë (Klaus Friedl 2007)

Durres, about an hour's drive from capital Tirana. invasion and later, everything is here." That's by way Not a pretty sight, because out of the window the of culture. "But we have also astonishing nature, we visitor can see also the development itself. But this is have beautiful rivers, incredible lakes and a range of only a part of Durres. The country does have attracti- mountains which is all quite something to find in a ve sights to offer, by way of culture, history and small territory." Not all easy to access. And not all nature itself. "Think just of the accessibility of the developed and framed in infrastructure. That, then, monuments," says Gent Mati from Outdoor Albania, is the start of adventure - for some, and up to a point. a company that promotes "adventure and culture". Add adventure-culture to the undefined blends that "Tourists are astonished that it's so easy to visit mos- Albania offers. Throw in a touch of Greece and Italy ques, or go to the churches. It's something people as well. Albanians wouldn't like that to be the reason find very interesting, the harmonic leap from west to for anyone to drop in; it dreams of becoming some- east, a blend of this and that." thing more than a half-way place en route that would The country, he says, "has incredible history, we only remind the visitor of its neighbours. It wants the have all ancient cultures mixing with one another - tourist to come to Albania - whatever, and every- from and Roman sites to the Ottoman thing, that might mean. (Reported in June 2007) „ 37 Albania On The Road From The World Interview with Dr. Ylli Pango, Albanian minister for tourism By Sanjay Suri

irana - When psychiatrist turned political lead- and secondly to do better in terms of promotion. Just Ter Ylli Pango took over as minister for tourism, for doing this in terms of promotion this year, we besides holding other portfolios, Albania was have made big progress because tourist signs are always going to open welcoming gates to visitors now being put up in all the southern parts of Albania, from the world. And it has, with an almost fourfold signs which show where monuments of culture and jump in tourism over the last four years. While he tourist spots are. Now we have started a website. In does so much for tourists, he is really doing so much my visits this year to Lisbon, to tourism summits, more for Albania itself. He has made it his mission, people say you have a lot to show, but where are you, more than just ministerial assignment, to clean up you have to show yourself up, so that is why we are the country for visitors and for itself. And in the pro- now working faster. cess clean up also the image of Albania. So that now IPS: In what way is the low number of visitors compared Albania is coming rapidly to be seen not as a coun- to Western Europe itself an opportunity. try Albanians leave, but one that others will want to come to. IPS regional editor for Europe and Medi- Ylli Pango: The motto has been discover Albania. terranean Sanjay Suri sat down with Dr Pango to The country was isolated for 45 years, not well find out more about his plans. known by Western and other tourists. But there are two signs of the coin, one that it is undiscovered, the IPS: Enough tourists coming to Albania, or not enough? other that it is isolated, and we need therefore better Ylli Pango: We are getting more and more. In 2003 infrastructure and capacities. On one side it is a bene- we had just 250,000 tourists, this year we will have fit, on the other, it needs to advance. about a million, maybe more. IPS: What are you doing by way of marketing and publici- IPS: And where are they coming from? ty to sell Albania. Ylli Pango: About 50 percent are coming from Ylli Pango: We have an agency to promote tourism, neighbouring countries. From Kosovo, from to prepare publicity spots, prepare pamphlets, to Macedonia but also from other countries -- from take part in tourism fairs around the world. Secondly, Poland, France, Germany, Italy, this year tourists are we will take up some big projects, one just launched coming from Greece. And we have American agen- by the Spanish government and the UNDP, focused cies combining tourism to Croatia with visits to on promotion of culture in Albania in the service of Albania. There is now a plan for cooperation bet- tourism, and improvement of the image of culture ween Macedonia, Croatia and Albania to exchange and tourist Albania. This is a one million euro project, tourists. and there are lots of others. One is supported by the IPS: Your neighbours Greece and Italy have traditionally European Union, for restoration of the cultural heri- got large numbers of tourists. Are you considering selling tage of Albania. Many of our cities are old and histo- yourself more aggressively to get some of those tourists rical, many have a castle, and a mediaeval down- coming your way? town, and to revitalise all these centres is one of our Ylli Pango: I take it as an advantage that we are main projects. neighbours of Italy and Greece, these are two ancient IPS: Is there sufficient access to all parts of Albania? civilisations, and a lot of culture you see in Albania originally belongs to those two civilisations. Of cour- Ylli Pango: Most of the main access to the most inter- se we cannot compare with Greece and Italy in terms esting tourist spots is going to be finished next year. of monuments of culture, but compared to Mace- Access up to the north up to the border with donia and Montenegro and Croatia we are at an Montenegro is done, the southern access is done. advantage. Most people around the world know Other projects will be finished by 2008. very little about the civilisation of Albania. When IPS: Is some of the infrastructure coming up illegal? they come here they are surprised, not only because Ylli Pango: That is mainly in the centre of Albania, in of the tourism of nature, of the sun and sand, but by the zone of Durres, the only tourist area which was our cultural monuments. destroyed, but there is still a long coastline that is IPS: What are you doing to prepare for this increased num- intact, untouched, and it will be prepared by a World ber of tourists? Bank project for starting licensing for tourist villages, Ylli Pango: We are putting up more units of accom- resorts and so on. The big project will be finished wit- modation, to have more developed infrastructure, hin a few months, and right after this we will not only 38 Dr. Ylli Pango (Photo: IPS | UNDP Albania) restore monuments in the south, and improve electri- IPS: There is an image around that Albania is not a very city and water supply, but even destroy in some pla- safe place, that there is a great deal of organised crime. ces anything built up without permission. But in the Ylli Pango: This was so at one time, about ten years southern parts there are only a few such villages. ago. For about eight or nine years it is safe, security Some villages came up without permission, and measures have been taken. This year too we have these will be destroyed, in just the last few days we taken very serious measures. So in terms of safety have destroyed some of them. there are no problems in Albania. In the past this IPS: Is there a contradiction emerging between develop- happened during the transition from dictatorship to ment and preservation of the environment? democracy, there are always problems at such times, but now the country is advancing fast, without any Ylli Pango: In the southern part, I'd say that the most problems of safety and security. That is why we are part of the coastline is mainly clear and pure in terms working on this project of the image of Albania, not of nature. So the development damaged just this part only in terms of the beauties of nature but in terms close to Durres and to Tirana where people were sup- of safety and security. The image has much changed posed to build villages according to permission given in relation to the past, and we have to show it to the by the government since 1993, but instead of villages world, because what remained in the mind of some they put up buildings of six, seven, eight floors, people coming years ago was this bad image. But which is not proper for the coast. now most tourists who come here say what a surpri- IPS: Do you have plans for ecological preservation? se, we used to think it was a dangerous country, but it is so different. Ylli Pango: We have about 600 so-called monuments of nature. These are under the protection of the mini- IPS: Is Albania also cheaper to visit than some other coun- stry of environment, and the tourism ministry works tries around? with it in terms of rural tourism, and preservation of Ylli Pango: There are hotels which are cheap, restau- those parks, to put them all in the service of tourism. rants which are cheap, but there are others which are very expensive. There are some hotels not of very IPS: Adventure tourism is quite well developed, isn't it. good quality but in very interesting zones, and uncon- Ylli Pango: Tourism of adventure and tourism of trolled in terms of quality and prices, and they charge special interest is very, very developed in Albania, quite high prices. Under the new law on tourism, pas- but only a few people know about it, because it has sed a month ago, now they are being placed under been started by adventurous individuals. There is no control for this tourist season. We have a department media to show what is developed, but it is very well now for the service of tourism. It is mainly focused on developed. In places like , mountain zones, controlling prices, quality, licensing, so now the situa- rivers for canoeing. tion will change. (Reported in June 2007) „ 39 Long And Winding Road Straightening Out

By Altin Raxhimi

irana - For a corner of the world where until hills for fear of offering enemy planes a landing T17 years ago a foreign visitor was either the strip. These are being straightened now to shor- exotic Marxist-Leninist relishing the successes ten distances and improve driving conditions. of a communist system or the adventurer loo- Old Albania lived with a widespread housing king for a good story to tell back home, Albania problem. A fifth of the population migrated to the has made quite a jump. About a fifth of the west since the country opened up, another fifth people that visited this country of three million moved internally to cities. as tourists last year were foreigners. Most came During the mid-1990s, investment by hun- from within the region, but the country is now dreds of thousands of Albanians into dubious attracting a high numbers of visitors from more savings schemes plunged the country into anar- distant European countries. "Albania still re- chy. In 1999 Albania was hit further by the war mains the last unknown place in Europe," Ylli over Kosovo, the southern province of Serbia Pango, a psychiatrist who became minister for dominated by ethnic Albanians. Hundreds of tourism last month told IPS. "And that is cur- thousands of refugees from Kosovo took shelter rently an asset." in Albania. But the economy has been growing on The country drew 900,000 tourists last year. average five percent a year since the end of the A tenth were from the adjacent Albanian- inha- . Widespread construction is evident bited Kosovo and Macedonia, and about as in major cities like capital Tirana and the coastal many either came on the transit bus along the cities Durres and Vlore. It is a country in the Dalmatian coast down to Greece, or came making - where people often make their own adventure in the mountains in the north rules as well. Just about 30 of the country's 600 of the country. The rest were locals mostly on hotels are registered and given accepted classifi- beach holidays. The number of visitors is cation. expected to grow to more than a million this year. The first busloads and charters have arri- Albania has much to offer ved for the spring season. "This is a change New buildings have mushroomed along a from that trickle of foreign groups (during com- swathe of sandy beaches on the Adriatic coast, munist days) that were monitored and spied with little indication of planned development. upon at every step, to a stage when anyone can Many have built summerhouses here. The coast visit the country," said Pango. by the largest port Durres and the nearby villa- Ills of self-imposed isolation ge Golem has seen reckless development over the past ten years. This is a scene of continuing Albania is forcing itself into speedy moderni- construction and piling garbage. "We hope to sation the way most post-communist countries save the rest of the country from this model, this did. It has liberalised the economy, and changed Golemisation," Jamarber Malltezi, who coordi- politics into a functioning multi-party system. nates a chiefly World Bank-funded plan to deve- The road had been bumpy, like most of its histo- lop the southern coast told IPS. "You don't see ry. Under the dictatorship of Stalinist leader communities benefit from building resorts that Enver Hoxha from the Second World War to 1990, have a life for only three months in the summer, Albania invited many ills of self-imposed isolati- or from weekend houses, or just summer apart- on. An that sought self-reliance and no ments." In the winter Durres and Golem become flow of capital worsened the already bad roads. ghostly. These were usually narrow lanes wound around Other resorts lack infrastructure. Some major 40 UNESCO World Heritage Site in Butrint ((Klaus Friedl 2007)

roads are still not finished. Yet, Albania has along rocky cliffs plunging down to the sea. A much to offer. The many powers that rose and 30-million-dollar World Bank project will fell along the Mediterranean have left their tra- undertake to develop roads and sewage ces. History lives in Greek towns all over the systems this year. It would clear the garbage country, Roman remains and Venetian forts in from Durres, and help manage the best recogni- Durres, and Ottoman bazaars in the central sed tourist attraction of the country - the ruins town Kruje. Its northern Alps, an extension of of Butrint in the south where the Trojan hero the dramatic western Balkans mountain ranges, Aenneas and his soldiers halted on way to are some of the less accessible parts of Europe, Rome. and this attracts trekkers. The Ionian coast is "There is no specific recipe how to develop tour- among the most scenic along the Mediterra- ism here," said Malltezi. "We just want not to repeat nean. Old white stone villages dot the drive the ills of the recent past." (Reported in April 2007) „ 41 Imprint

© Inter Press Service (IPS) International Association

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Coordinator: Ramesh Jaura Editor: Sanjay Suri Layout: Birgit Weisenburger, Berlin Photos: Klaus Friedl, www.offroad-reisen.com Pages 24, 31 and 39: diverse sources duly acknowledged inside

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