The Sea Canoeist Newsletter No.52 - August - September 1994 THE SEA CANOEIST NEWSLETTER Issue 52 August - September 1994 Editor: P Caffyn, RD 1, Runanga. West Coast .N.Z. Ph/Fax: (03) 7311806 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter is published 6 times a year as the official newsletter of the Kiwi Association of Sea Kayakers (N.Z.) Inc. Subscriptions are $10.00 per annum & should be made out to K.A.S.K. (NZ) Inc. & sent to the Treasurer: Sandy Ferguson,12 Dunn Street, Christchurch 2. Ph: (03) 332 5155 home, Fax: (03) 364 2110 Correspondence to the Secretary: Peter Sullivan, 7 Monowai Cres, North New Brighton, Christchurch. Ph.(03) 388 3380.

INDEX FORTHCOMING EVENTS miss a roll and grovel ashore. Hoping Editorial p.1 1994 COASTBUSTERS- AUCKLAND no-one would notice me empty the Forthcoming Events p.1 14-16 OCTOBER boat, I skulked back out in time to see Kayaker Saves Dinghy Occupants The annual Coastbusters Sea - what I thought was a bloody great by John Kirk-Anderson p.1 ing Symposium is to be held in Auck- shark fin. By the time my eyes had 13.5 Days at Sea - Fiordland land over the weekend of October 14 climbed back into their sockets I real- by Bevan Walker p.2 to 16. It will be held at the Marine and ized it was the bow of the runabout Letters to the Editor p.6 Recreation Centre (MERC) at Long reaching for the sky. I beat a couple of Trip Reports. Foveaux Strait Cross- Bay on Auckland's North Shore. The wave riders to the scene, mindful of ing by Phil Handford p.7 programme will be a combination of the spoils. A young girl and her Letters to the Editor p.8 keynote speakers, panel discussions, granddad were clinging to the boat as Book Reviews p.8 & 9 workshops and practical sessions of surf knocked them around while Dad News Round Up 10 the water. Manufacturers and retail- was doing a runner, swimming for a ers will be in attendance to show the dinghy about 50m away. I got the two EDITORIAL latest in boats and equipment. away from the boat and they played At long last, a story from Bevan On Sunday morning there will be cling-ons as the surf blasted over the Walker on his trip with Craig an announcement concerning a major top. With them lying on their backs Hornblow around Fiordland in the event in the Auckland sea (they were both wearing buoyancy summer of 1990. Their trip was quite calendar for 1995. vests) and kicking we were able to a remarkable achievement consider- MERC offers full accommodation make good progress. I don’t recom- ing that the first trip from Te Waewae but with a limit of 55 beds. Delegates mend a couple of swimmers as a re- Bay to Jacksons Bay took Max are advised to book early as up to 100 placement for however. As Reynolds and myself 27 days, and people are expected to attend. To ob- soon as they were on the dinghy, the even now I still consider this stretch of tain a copy of the programme and a Sumner lifeboat arrived to claim the coastline one of the most committing registration form, contact MERC by glory. The wave riders and I tried to in the world in terms of frequency of telephoning (09) 473 0714 claim salvage rights on the overturned bad weather, rough seas, and paucity or fax (09) 473 1945 runabout but our cries fell on deaf of sheltered landings. I would suggest ears. We paddled around collecting that the development of lightweight, the million-and-one things that had kevlar and the deepdraft over- floated free while seagulls cleaned up stern rudder contributed to Bevan and KAYAKER SAVES DINGHY the soggy biscuits and bread rolls. Craig's success. Max and I OCCUPANTS. SALVAGE The boat was towed to shore, blowing 65 pound kayaks (unladen weight) RIGHTS REJECTED!. bubbles and getting lower with every and using matchbox size, semi-re- by John Kirk-Anderson wave. Once close to the lifeboat sta- tractable skegs, considered 30 miles I’m not sure whether to paint a Red tion the ‘headless chicken’ surfaced. I in one day quite exceptional whereas Cross or a Jolly Roger on the side of landed and watched some 10 chiefs Craig and Bevan nudged 50 miles on my kayak. After the fun and games of yelling instructions to three guys on their good days. the KASK forum, I thought I’d prac- the tow boat. After watching for five The story by Phil Handford of a tised enough rescues for awhile, but minutes, I wandered into the water successful Foveaux Strait crossing no such luck. Surf was up at Sumner with a tow rope and assisted in pulling also reflects on the importance of and I had a Seahawk out from Topsport the boat onto the ramp. My claims to sound research, planning and physi- for a play. The surf was topping out at salvage rights were brushed aside so I cal training as integral ingredients of around two metres when I saw a runa- gave up and went paddling. a safe trip or expedition. bout launch into the surf zone. I soon John Kirk-Anderson lost interest as I chose that moment to

1 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter No.52 - August - September 1994

was very close to the horizon. We light was once permanently manned 13.5 DAYS AT SEA were surrounded by breaking waves. but two of the houses have now been A Sea Kayaking Odyssey in We had to find a channel to go over removed. The light is now powered Fiordland - February 1990 this reef. It was low tide. by batteries and charged by a solar by Bevan Walker Craig and Keith were just behind panel. We had lunch here and looking DAY 1 - Te Waewae Bay to me as I approached the reef. A large to the north-west we could see Cape Green Islets wave lifted me up and I surfed down Providence in the distance, our camp It was 12.20pm and we had just bro- it’s steep face. Over the shallow reef for the evening. ken out through the surf at Te Waewae and into smooth water, I glanced over We pushed off from our small cove Bay. We had been planning for this my shoulder and saw Keith knocked and round the outside of Coal Island trip for quite some time and at last we sideways with a breaking wave but he and across to Gulches Head, through were on our way. The team included rounded the Nordkapp up and soon Break Adrift Passage, the sea was Craig Hornblow, Keith Dekkers and they were alongside me on calm wa- lifting. Gulches Head is jagged with myself. Keith was going to come half ter. It was a step-out landing on a numerous rocks sticking up. Across way with us, up to Doubtful Sound sandy beach rising to a small flat piece to Chalky Island and around the out- then go over Wilmot Pass to Lake of land with a steep cliff behind. We side and then straight into Landing Manapouri. Craig and myself were made camp in fading light, had tea Bay at Cape Providence to Pickersgill heading for Jacksons Bay in South and climbed into our sleeping bags. It Harbour Westland. I had undertaken several was a great feeling. We had achieved This was another good landing on a kayaking trips in Fiordland but had over sixty kms in eight and a half boulder beach in a sheltered bay. We never been right around the outside in hours non stop. This coast is wide moved the kayaks into the bush, one go and never on the south coast open to the Southern Ocean and we grabbed our overnight gear and walked before. could see by the driftwood that some through the bush on an overgrown Our Nordkapps were heavily loaded massive storms must come this way. track to the outside coast. Down a with a month’s supplies. An average steep bank to a shingle beach where a swell was rolling in and as we paddled DAY 2 - Green Islets to cave was found. This was an old around Sand Hill Point it started to lift Cape Providence sealers gang cave that was used last and a 15 knots south-east breeze was We are up before the sun, a small fire century. It was a dry cave in all nearly directly astern. Conditions were going, cooking our breakfast. The weather, big enough to swing an axe really good - the day was warm and sun lifted up over the horizon and in. We made our first radio contact the swell and a lump on top whipped shone through one of the headland’s and heard a marine forecast which up by the following breeze. With archways. It looked promising for a sounded good. Tea was cooking over such good conditions, quite rare on good day’s around Puysegur a small fire at the entrance of the cave. this south coast, we wanted to go all Point, the south-western extremity of This part of Fiordland is rarely visited day and land just before dark. the South Island and considered the by kayaks and we were feeling very We headed past Sand Hill Point and crux of a kayaking trip around Fiord- pleased with our progress and the pointed the bows westwards. Two land. The tide was half out as we conditions. fishing boats were out to sea, bobbing pushed off. Joining a light south-east in amongst the swell. This was kayak- breeze we rounded the headland of DAY 3 - Cape Providence ing at its best. We wasted no time and Green Islets and turned the Nordkapp to Pickersgill Harbour Long Point was in the distance - a bows to the west. As we were ap- We were up early and walked down headland that juts out to sea, past the proaching Long Reef we could see the shingle beach to Cape Providence river that flows out of Lake Poteriteri. waves breaking well out to sea. To get where a cave goes right through the This part of the coast land is heavily around this reef we had to go several headland and into Landing Bay. Some bushed, low lying round-topped hills kilometres offshore and when we big seas must hit this headland; there and numerous reefs, some of them turned to the north-west the wind was were logs well inside this cave. We extending several kilometres out to lifting slightly in our favour. Round- loaded the kayaks and we pushed off sea. ing Windsor Point we could see in the at low tide. The day was getting on and we far distance the aerials by the auto- Around the cape to the north we could see the sun lowering to the matic lighthouse on Puysegur Point. paddled. The tide was coming in horizon. We passed Big River with We slipped inside Marshalls Rock which meant we had a head tide all the conditions still the same and in the far and where the swell was lifting and way. Cape Providence has numerous distance we could see another head- breaking on the outside of this reef. offshore rocks which are just below land. ‘That must be Green Islets’ The kayaks were feeling lively, the surface. The cape is swept by which would be our first camp, for I bucking about in this chop and some- strong currents and we could feel it as knew the small boat landing had nu- times surfing. We rounded Puysegur we pushed into it. We met Cyril and merous rocks that jut out and some of Point and headed in to Otago Retreat. his crew mate on the Sea Spray, a cray them have archways through them. We landed in a small cove on a sandy boat that fishes the Providence coast. With less than an hour of light left as beach and walked up to the light- This part of the coast is low lying with we approached Green Islets the sun house, once a well used track. The round topped hills and in the distance

2 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter No.52 - August - September 1994 we could see the Dark Cloud Range. days. Craig and Keith had also speared pushed backwards. When it had The wind was easing off as we pad- a few fish and we were cooking them passed we powered on again into the dled around West Cape, the western- on the beach as darkness came in. driving rain. This was one of the most extremity of New Zealand; a worst headwinds I have been in. It small low lying headland with off- DAY 6 - Breaksea Island was an absolute physical drain, our shore reefs. There were many mutton to Dagg Sound arm muscles stretched to the limit. birds on the water and we paddled We were on the water early, just on We were right against the east side of very close to them on our way to first light. Conditions still good but the channel, just metres from shore Dusky Sound. the wind had shifted to the north-west trying to get out of this blinding wind The sea was dropping as we pad- - this meant a slight headwind. We and sea which was getting whipped dled past South Point at the entrance paddled past Coal Bay and the sand up and blowing straight into our faces. of Dusky Sound. Many large dunes at the head of this bay are black Metre by metre we ground our way up mollymawks would fly by and look - like the colour of coal. The wind was to Deas Cove. At last we were in the down upon us. We followed the coast lifting. Now and again a breaking shelter and paddled up to a perfect into Dusky Sound, past Crayfish Is- wave would come our way. The tuna landing with the bush coming down to land and into Pickersgill Harbour were jumping and we were getting the high tide mark. At last we had where Captain Cook was once moored closer to Dagg Sound by now. made it. Those wind squalls were for several weeks. We made camp About midday as we entered Dagg lifting over 40 knots. We had been on just above high tide. Looking up Sound, the wind was too strong for us the water ten and a half hours, com- Cooks Channel in the distance we to paddle. We made camp on the north- pleting 35 kms. Two hours longer could see Cooper Island and on the ern side of the sound about three kilo- than day one and just over half the skyline Heath Mountains. metres in where a large river comes distance covered. Head winds are gut down a steep valley. We fished and busters. Nothing is going to stop us DAY 4 - Pickersgill Harbour that night feasted on cod. now. We are halfway - 230 kms to Breaksea Island behind us. We woke to an overcast sky and a hint DAY 7 - Dagg Sound to Deas Cove of rain. We packed and checked out Next day we were up early and head- DAY 8 - Deas Cove the small harbour and visited a place ing out of Dagg Sound. The sea had We woke up to a big storm outside. where Cook cut down the trees - As- dropped slightly but the wind was still No paddling today!! We just rolled tronomers Point where they looked at coming in. It was starting to lift a over in the sleeping bags and went the stars to get their longitude and little, more tuna jumping, past Black back to sleep. A north-west storm latitude. And then on our way past Point and we could see the entrance of was raging outside. It made the day Low Island and Indian Island and into Doubtful Sound. The Hare’s Ears before look quite calm. We were Bowen Channel and up the Acheron were sticking out - two rocks at the really happy to be in the comfort of Passage. Resolution Island on our left entrance of the sound. The cloud was this warm hut. We finished the rest of and the mainland on our right with dropping and the headwind was in- our fish and had a good look at the Wet Jacket Arm coming into this pas- creasing. At last we entered Doubtful maps for the rest of the day and read sage. We paddled to the northern end Sound. At the same time a large some magazines. of Resolution Island past Gilbert Is- cruise ship went into the fiord. It was land and onto the inside of Breaksea dwarfed by the large mountains rising DAY 9 - Deas Cove to Styles Island, Island. We did some fishing here and straight from sea level up to a thou- Caswell Sound caught many large cod for our tea and sand metres and more; bush coming The storm had passed. Conditions then landed on a boulder beach. This down to the sea and waterfalls falling looked okay, the rain had gone, cloud was a shorter day paddled than the into the sound. had lifted a little and the sound was previous ones. We left Keith at Bauza Island - he quiet. We packed and once again we would paddle up to Deep Cove, bus were out on the water. We were DAY 5 - Breaksea Island over Wilmot Pass, then paddle across wondering what conditions were like We had a little lie in. We brought one Lake Manapouri. Craig and myself on the outside of the coast. We pad- set of snorkelling gear with us and this paddled past Blanket Bay and around dled past Open Cove and we could see was the day we were going to use it. the southern tip of Secretary Island that it was going to be a lumpy ride. It We spearfished around the inside of into a grinding head wind. This was was a confused sea. The north-west the island and looked at the seals that painful. Squalls tore down the chan- storm had left a steep north-west roll came our way. We were camped next nel and blinded us sometimes, even coming down the coast as well a south- to a seal colony. I was spearing fish pushing us backwards. west roll coming up. These two swells when I saw a seal swimming by with We wanted to reach Deas Cove, hitting each other made a very con- a large gash in its side. It must have about six kilometres away with a fused water, lifting the swells into been bitten by a shark - I decided to comfy hut, before night fall but we steep faces. As well the sea was give the spear fishing a miss after could see a storm coming in. One hitting the cliffs and bouncing back seeing that seal and got out of the squall hit us; we just rafted up. Vis- out to sea. It was the biggest confused water. We had enough fish for several ibility was just a few metres. We were bit of water that I have ever been in.

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The swells were making their own along side and the skipper said he was were in here, ducks, white herons, wind; in the troughs there was no looking out for us. Cyril from down oyster catchers. We turned and pad- wind at all and when we were on the the Providence coast had radioed dled out back where we had come crests we could feel a fresh breeze through and told him that we were on from. We broke out through the surf blowing into our faces. As we pad- our way. over the sand bar and out into the dled past Nancy Sound, a couple of A headwind was lifting. We did not deeper water and headed towards kilometres offshore, we could see a want to go into George Sound as we Milford Sound. As we paddled past small cray boat dancing on top of the would have to paddle in a long way to Bell Point some large breaking swells waves as it lifted its pots and dropped find a flat piece of land to camp. Our were lifting high on its jagged coast them back over. We were making speed was slowed down with this wind. line. Looking into Poison Bay we good time in this big sea and it didn’t We were opposite Catseye Bay, we could see some large mountains cov- take long to reach Charles Sound. had been paddling all day against a ered with ice. This is a very steep This part of the coast is very steep, head breeze and head tide. This was coast line with U-shaped valleys once rising from sea level straight up to the a good chance to land. On the south carved out by the glaciers more than snow grass with a very rocky coast- side of Catseye Bay a reef sticks out 10 thousand years ago. line. which slows the south-west swell The day was warming up and we Past Nugget Point were some large down. We entered the bay and surfed had a slight breeze behind us. This cathedral shaped rocks, sticking well onto a sandy beach. The sandflies was great to be making good time. out of the sea. We could see the were very thick. We walked to the We rounded Fox Point and across to entrance of Caswell Sound but Craig northern end of the beach and back to Anita Bay the entrance to Milford wasn’t feeling the best. This large our kayaks. We pushed off into a low Sound. We landed here and set up the confused sea was taking a toll on us. surf and out of the bay and headed to camp. I went for a spear fish and So we headed into Caswell passing on the north-east. The head breeze had caught some good size fish for our tea. the south side of Styles Island. We now dropped leaving just a bit of a landed on a smooth round-topped lump on top of the south-west swell DAY 12 - Milford Sound ledge and pitched the tent just above that was always out to meet us. Pad- to Martins Bay high tide. There was no running water dling around Flat Point, the southern We are up early. Cooked breakfast on the island but the storm had left end of Bligh Sound, we decided to over a fire and waited for it to get light some water in some rock pools which push on to Sutherland Sound where enough to leave Milford Sound and we gathered. we wanted to explore. This sound is up the coast to Martins Bay. Over- That evening we walked to the west quite different from the others. It has night a north-westerly had lifted which side of the island and we could see the a shallow sand spit over across its meant we were pushing into more sea was dropping and conditions mouth and a large estuary behind. It headwinds. Around Yates Point and looked promising for tomorrow. This had been a long paddle and we could the winds increased on up to No Mans small island was covered in bush and feel the effect on our arms. We had Beach. This was getting too much for we had a panorama view looking to- covered just over 50 kms. Approach- us we were getting nowhere. The sea wards the head of Caswell Sound. ing the entrance to the sound we could was lifting and the wind increasing. Craig did some more fishing to fill up see that we would have to paddle over We sneaked in behind a small head- our larder and that night we feasted on the bar and into the quiet water be- land and landed on a steep shingle fresh cod. hind. As I began to surf down a steep beach. We were here several hours wave, the stern of the kayak was lifted before pushing off about two hours DAY 10 - Styles Island up and the bow sank under. It broke before dark. The wind had eased to Bligh Sound with a roar and from the cockpit to the slightly allowing us to launch and We were up early, well before sun-up rudder was under white foaming wa- paddle up the coast to Martins Bay. and on the water just as it got light. ter. After some time the bow lifted up We landed at the southern end of This was a perfect morning with very and I was off like a rocket. This was Martins Bay in between some rocks little wind and not much evidence of the best surf ride I had on the whole on a sandy beach. We made camp just the storm two days before. On past trip. We made camp in the bush just by some flax bushes just high enough Two Thumb Bay and along to Look- above high tide. to be out of the way of the breaking ing Glass Bay, past Round Head and surf. We cooked tea and then slid into in the distance we could see House DAY 11 - Bligh Sound our sleeping bags and were soon Roof Rock. This is a massive big rock to Milford Sound asleep. sticking out of water with a roof top We awoke to a perfect day and de- pitch to it. The sky was patchy with cided to paddle up into the estuary. DAY 13 - Martins Bay cloud and now and again a hint of rain The tide was coming in which pushed to Browns Refuge would come our way. We paddled out us on our way. The water was shallow We awoke to a noisy surf outside. to sea to go around this offshore reef and up at the end of the sound rose a Thinking that it was too rough to push with white water crashing over the top large mountain. The sun was lifting on we just lay and listened to the sea of it. Ahead we could see the entrance and made the surrounding mountains outside. Thought we would have a to George Sound. A crayboat came look inviting. Many estuary birds look. It had calmed down. Lets pack

4 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter No.52 - August - September 1994 and go. We ate breakfast as we were tres. These swells must have been Stafford Bay, up past Smooth Water packing and were soon off the beach lifting up to five metres and they were Bay and around Jacksons Head. We on our way north. hissing on the backs of them. When had made it! In thirteen and a half We paddled directly across the Mar- we were in the troughs there was no days! 480 kilometres! Two days tins Bay to Long Reef. The swell was wind but on top of them we were without paddling. This was - lifting up over the shallow reef so we caught by the south-west winds. There ing at its best. What a great trip! We keep well out to sea. Across Big Bay were many Fiordland crested pen- had food left over and we had done and around the northern point. Some guins along this coast and they seemed what we had come to do. We landed more big swells were lifting and once to like these conditions. Once beyond at Jacksons Bay not far from the wharf. again we headed out to sea. Along Cascade Point the sea had calmed We hitch hiked back to Southland to past Longridge Point, Gorge Island down. The day warmed up and the pick up the vehicle and then back to and on up to Cutter Rocks. We were weather seemed to know that nothing Jacksons Bay to pick up the kayaks looking for a place to land and Browns would stop us now. Past Seal Rocks, and back to Nelson. Refuge looked like a likely place. Bevan Walker A boulder reef was sticking out to sea and if we could sneak around behind it we could have a good land- ing. I went in first catching one of the smaller surfing waves. Some large round topped boulders were all around me but I sneaked in between them and landed on a sandy beach. Craig was right behind me and had a good land- ing. There are not many safe landings up this coast but we managed to get behind this shallow reef that stuck out. The day was only half gone so we made camp and then explored the beach. We could see the wreckage of an old fishing boat that had been thrown high and dry by a big storm some time ago. During the day the sea lifted with some large sets of surfing waves coming into our little cove. It was good to be on shore.

DAY 14 - Browns Refuge to Jacksons Bay Next morning we were up early and packed, ready to push. It was too dark, we had to wait a little to see where we were going out over this reef and then up the coast. This was our last day. Out to sea was blue sky but over the land was a big dark cloud. The sun was shining through small gaps in the cloud and it looked really spooky. Past Barn Bay Island some large sets of swells were coming in. I would not like to land on this part of the coast. It looks worse than where we landed the day before! We could see Cascade Point in the distance and once we were around that point we were on the home straight. Some very large sets of swells off the coast of Cascade Point and we were well out to sea - several kilome-

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LETTERS TO THE EDITOR look, at the very least, unisex rather aged to avoid any suggestion of ‘Maori KASK Forum paddle than purely male. This is a subjective slanging’. Good on her. I felt I had to write to put matters response of mine, based on the fairly Ann Louise Mitcalfe straight about the forum paddle and broad shoulders and broad face with Wellington. the slog to Picton. It is of great interest what appears to be a beard from the to see how the wind strength changes shadows underneath the face. Would Editor’s Response in each writer’s account, from 25 knots you like to refer this query onto Peter Peter Sullivan has modified the logo to 30 knots. It must be noted that not to see if the graphic artist he has been by the inclusion of a lifejacket and a sail was seen in these conditions, using would like to work further on New Zealand for those overseas peo- only motor craft. the figure in this way. ple who think a Kiwi is a bird. According to the Beaufort Scale of 4. I suppose another matter that Regarding the unsisex comment, I Wind Force, a 25 knot wind falls into arises pursuant to the debriefing at the like the logo as is - it is different in that the category of Strong Breeze (mean Picton Sea Kayak Forum is whether the paddler appears in serious con- wind speed 22 to 27 knots) while 28 to or not the person on the KASK logo centration, as though on a mission. 33 knot winds fall into the category of should be more obviously wearing The logo represents a sea kayaker, a Near Gale. It is very hard to put an some form of life jacket. I would be and does it really matter if the pad- exact figure on wind speed, as the sea interested in the views of KASK on dlers appears as a male or a female? conditions had not conformed to a this one. The sports of both caving and sea pattern at that time. 5. Lastly it was good to see that kayaking have always been non-sex- It was felt that the wind may well KASK has joined PANZ (Public Ac- ist - people are accepted for what they have been 28 to 33 knots with stronger cess NZ) and Nora Flight is to be wnat do enjoy out of the sport, regard- gusts which may have exceeded 40 commended for her summary of their less of sex. knots for brief periods, caused by the work in their latest newsletter. PANZ steepness of the surrounding hills. All does excellent work on access any- Has anybody else anything to add I can add to the debate is, I was glad to where throughout NZ and I am genu- regarding the logo design? get my feet on dry land, and was also inely grateful for what they do. I have glad to be alive. By the way Harry been involved in the work on access Litchwark and I had a frightening myself, although not through PANZ, encounter when the ferry seemed to for the last five years and it’s great The Big Blow - Anzac Day 1994 loom up very quick. that there are volunteers out there. I was not there either so will refrain The question I ask myself is would 6. I do have one area of concern from commenting on the actions of I go out for a paddle in a 30 knot with respect to some of the ways those involved. I would like however breeze for the fun of it? And the an- PANZ’s views are represented. There to comment generally on the reports. swer I keep getting is a big NO! has been an occasional tendency to In my experience it really helps to Michael Rossouw portray the Maori as some kind of separate facts from opinion in a re- Christchurch deeply faulted bunch of New Zea- port. Also making ‘asides’ in a report landers because they have valid claims can really offend those people being Logo/PANZ with respect to many areas of land referred to. The nett effect is to create 1. I’ve just read my latest Sea Ca- within New Zealand. division and disunity where warmth noeist Newsletter (51) and it was great 7. Generally speaking, the Maori and fellowship of shared adventure to get such an extensive report on the place their claims before the Waitangi were present on the actual day. 1994 Sea Kayak Forum at Picton since Tribunal in order that they be recog- I have seen this happen in a number I was unable to be there. nized through the proper processes. I of clubs and associations (and busi- 2. You had inserted a sample of the understand from Bruce Mason, re- nesses) so my plea to all future writers modified logo that Peter Sullivan had searcher for PANZ, that it is not so of reports is: been working on from Graham Egarr’s much that the Maori make these claims - only state known i.e.., corrobo- original. I think it is a great idea to and have valid claims that PANZ ob- rated facts have a logo and it’s good that you ject to; it is what the Crown may do in - keep personal opinions to a sepa- invited comment on the design. response to these valid claims that is rate section ( as some writers did) 3. What concerns me with this more a matter of concern. - use as few emotive adjectives as present draft of the logo is that it is 8. I hope that KASK will not every possible quite strongly male in appearance. fall into the same mistake of appear- - if you want to be critical - criticize You and Sandy and various others ing to slang Maori claims but rather your own actions or inactions such as Brian Lodge in KASK have work actively in it’s own right and Otherwise I’m sure ‘An adventure made the effort to recognize and in- through groups such as PANZ to guide is a disaster you survive’. I’m looking volve the women who are already the Crown towards sensible settle- forward to the next Forum. Thanks to involved in sea kayaking in New Zea- ment of the claims instead. I believe the organizers. land. I think this should be continue Nora has done a good job in this in her Hugh Canard by a bit further work on the logo, to the representation of the wide range of end that the figure paddling should work that PANZ does and has man-

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TRIP REPORTS down south. We decided to go for it 8km/hour stopping every hour for a Foveaux Strait Crossing and left Christchurch on February 14 compulsory drink and a bite to eat 15 February 1994 - this was a bit of an opportunist trip (some old power bars I was trying to Phil and Max Handford after all. get rid of and some carbo drink). The in a double Resolution Sea Kayak On arrival at Invercargill we booked westerly swell dropped to virtually This trip report includes weather maps into a motel to sort out our gear and nothing but twice we experienced and some insight into weather pat- made a call to Meri Leask at Bluff waves up to one metre as the westerly terns that can occur in southern NZ. Fishermans Radio to confirm condi- wind got up and the opposing tide It had always been an idea to be able tions and low tide time. The swell was pushed the waves up. Good whitecaps to complete a Foveaux Strait cross- nil and low tide in the middle of the formed with a few breaking over the ing. Puysegur and Foveaux are a part strait at about 12.00 midday. Still the boat. Fortunately these times only of the Southern Ocean and right in the marine forecast said a 2m swell which lasted about half an hour each and path of the southern weather patterns was a bit un-nerving but only a 10 to made us realize how changeable con- - the winds are strong and changeable 15 knot westerly wind. The next day ditions were out there. and the swells large. The weather pat- would reveal the truth. A couple of albatross followed at terns are affected by the polar mari- The morning dawned a beautiful times to see if we had anything to time airstreams and conditions are clear blue sky. We aimed to launch offer and provided a pleasant change typically unstable. Forecasting is from the Bluff boat ramp and get to the limited scenery. therefore more difficult than in the away at 9.30am to catch the ebb tide We passed within 500m of a fishing more stable conditions further north. out of Bluff Harbour. We had to pack boat in the middle of the strait, busy Our holiday to the South Island for a week’s food and gear into the kayak working long lines, but I think they the last two weeks of February had for the rest of our time on Stewart were none the wiser as we would have been planned for some time. During Island. With not a cloud to be seen, we been hidden behind the waves half the January, I began watching the weather made fast time as we caught the tide time. patterns more closely to decide down the harbour to Bluff Head. The tidal stream on the Bluff side of whether to head for the bottom of the Before we cleared Bluff Head, the the strait was surprisingly strong and South Island or alternatively for north- westerly swell started to get bigger we were taken well to the west. Our west Nelson. There was a noticeable being pushed up by the opposing tide progress proved faster than expected change as an increased number of and Stewart Island looked a long way and resulted in us being more than intense high pressure systems ap- off at 35kms away, just an outline in half way across the strait before the peared and moved slowly across the the distance. I had some doubts in my tide turned. As a result the drift to the lower South Island. mind as to whether we should have east with the flood tide was not suffi- A large intense anticyclone even been here at all but reminded cient to compensate for how far west (1025mb) moved slowly onto the myself that conditions were perfect we had drifted. country in early February (see maps). and if we couldn’t cross now we never As we neared Stewart Island it be- This actually remained stationary and could. And we would probably never came obvious that we would have to then moved south slightly. As is typi- be fitter having done lots of endur- change course towards the east if we cal of strong anticyclones, they tend ance training for the Coast to Coast wanted to take a more direct route to to be slow moving so that the centre is three days earlier. Halfmoon Bay. Ending up too far to unlikely to move more than 100 miles I set a compass course for about the the west with a westerly wind and a in 24 hours. In addition such anticy- middle of Stewart Island (slightly west flood tide was certainly the preferred clones act as a block to advancing of Port William); Halfmoon Bay, our situation to be in, rather than ending systems, for example the depression destination is further to the east. The up in the east too close to the SE of Tasmania on 10 February was plan was to paddle to this compass Muttonbird Islands and having to pad- forced away as the anticyclone moved bearing all the way and to be in the dle against the westerly wind and tide to the SW. middle of the strait at the turn of the to reach Halfmoon Bay. As a result of this strong virtually tide. With the ebb tide, the tidal stream The trip took us a little over five stationary anticyclone, what devel- sets to the west so we would drift hours for the 40+kms, with five minute oped was an unusually long period of westwards until 12.00, and then drift breaks on the hour. settled weather. This mean that the to the east for an equivalent time with Innes Dunstan at Halfmoon Bay swell was likely to be relatively low the flood tide. We estimated a trip provided us with accommodation and and the weather relatively stable when time of about five hours with four local knowledge and gave us a lift we were ready to make our crossing. hours for the actual crossing. over to Paterson Inlet for some more During the last few days, we got Directly in line with our compass leisurely paddling. Paddling in updated marine forecasts at regular bearing was a tide race off Bluff Head Paterson Inlet is growing in popular- intervals on Metphone. The winds and as this didn’t look too severe, we ity with its easy access to the wilder- were typically forecast at 10-15 knots, decided to paddle straight across rather ness and shelter from the open sea. up to 20 knots and the swell at 2 to than around it. Although there was Hiring a Puffin or a Southern Light 2.5m. The swell height seemed high some broken water, this proved okay. from Innes or taking your own boat on given the weather but it is typical of We made good progress at about the ferry for $10 would have to be

7 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter No.52 - August - September 1994

high on the list of trips to do. from any gift shop. The type that BOOK REVIEW In hindsight, it would have been looks like paua shell in the light. Stick Weather for NZ Sailors a perfect opportunity to head down this on the front of your paddle and by Lt. Cdr Kenneth Brierly the west coast of the island and you have an instant mirror which Endeavour Press right around. Unfortunately we catches the light. reviewed by Phil Handford hadn’t done enough trip planning Editor’s comment: a bright fluoro- This book has been around for some for that opportunity. coloured blade is also a lot more vis- time however it is worth reviewing in Phil Handford. ible at sea than a green, blue or white the KASK newsletter as it is the best paddle blade. In the group situation book on NZ coastal weather and the on a lumpy sea, it is always a kayak- sea kayaker’s best reference. er’s paddle blades that appear first for To quote the Introduction: ‘This another paddler. Bright red, fluoro- book is concerned with forecasting pink or fluoro-orange blades make an weather in NZ waters and along NZ enormous difference with the ease of coasts. It is intended as a practical being spotted by other paddlers or guide for practical people.’ Most other yachts. A spray can of ‘dazzle’ will do texts that cover weather describe the trick. Regarding the refleco-tape, northern hemisphere weather. ‘Rarely I use the tape on both faces of the are South Pacific conditions described paddle for two reasons - boats do and never specifically those of NZ approach from astern and when pad- waters. This book aims to fill that dling on a pitch black night, the tape void.’ helps orientate the angle of the paddle ‘The mariner who looks for changes, blade in the sea. listens to forecasts, inspects weather maps, reads instruments, has a basic understanding of meteorology and You Kiwis Think of Everything applies this knowledge, will be unfor- by Mike Rossouw tunate indeed if taken unaware by the On a recent trip to Abel Tasman Na- weather. The aim within the follow- tional Park, something quite funny ing pages is to explain these factors happened to me. After leaving for NZ conditions. The book is pur- Marahau, I was paddling into a slight posely brief, for my experience with headwind when I smelt the aroma of practical sailors tells me that they percolated coffee. I followed the smell seek concise detail. It is non-math- for about 10 minutes until I arrived at ematical, for why it happens is more Apple Tree Bay where a group of important than how it happens... This tourists were sitting at some tables. book concerns the signs, the reading Was there any left? Yes said a tall and the messages.’ American man. so after a cup we Chapters include: The Marine Fore- talked about all sorts of things. Then cast, Pressure Systems, Clouds, Fog, he noticed a tap on the bow of my Airstreams, Fronts, Wind, Sea and Nordkapp, and said in a loud Ameri- Swell, Weather Maps, Tropical can accent, ‘Hey what’s this for?’ Weather and Hurricanes. Local con- Keeping a straight face I said “For ditions are referred to throughout. fresh water”. This book should be the first book “How does it work?” in any sea kayaker’s library. It retails “You see this pump (the bilge pump), at $20. well you pump and create a pressure, The text has also been incorporated Letters to the Editor then open the tap and out flows the in ‘Coastal Radio and Weather for NZ It was good to see you in Christchurch water.” Fishermen’ which was compiled and while you were promoting your book. “God damn it! You Kiwis think of edited by the NZ Federation of Com- When I spoke to you, I said I would everything. Why couldn’t we Ameri- mercial Fishermen Inc. and published like to try and write a tip for cans think of it.” by Penguin Books in 1991. This par- each newsletter: Well with a silly smile on my face, I ticular publication was put together Mike’s tips. pushed out of the bay and paddled and sponsored by the Shipwreck Re- While out on the sea in a launch or away. lief Society of NZ and the fishing yacht, when you look around it is very Yes we can all get a tap. Where from industry organizations who made hard to see a canoeist. The first sign is you may ask. From any novelty shop. 5,000 copies available free of charge usually the flashing of the paddle. So It is a suction cap tap, the type kids to mariners - ‘it could serve to save why not make this part of your equip- stick on their mother’s fridges for a lives - yours and ours.’ ment more visible. For the cost of laugh. Phil Handford. about $5, you can buy reflecto tape

8 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter No.52 - August - September 1994

a glove’ and became an extension of a To counteract this continuing loss NEW KAYAKING BOOKS kayaker’s body. The Nordkapp, mod- of knowledge and hard won experi- Recent additions to my library elled on the lines of a West Greenland ence, Petersen began collecting and include: kayaks, with the hard chine rounded presenting all available evidence on ‘Complete Folding Kayaker' into a semi-round bilge hull shape, I the building and use of the Greenaland by Ralph Diaz would suggest is more akin to a real- kayaks. Published 1994, by Ragged Mountain life dancing partner. A thoroughbred The book is in two parts, the first on Press, Camden, Maine, USA. sea kayak should be an extension of kayaks and the second on . ISBN 0-07-016734-6 the paddler’s body so that all the nu- Chapter headings for the kayak sec- Ralph Diaz is editor of a ‘Folding ances of the scend of the sea are felt. tion are: Kayaker’, a bimonthly newsletter he Folding boats are not worn, they are Construction of the kayak started back in 1991. The 162 page, sat in - the boats are too beamy and the The shape of the kayak and its limpbound book is divided into three cockpits too large for a paddler to development sections, Part One is ‘What You attempt to brace, a fact which is re- Kayak gear and fittings Should Know’, Part Two is ‘Handling flected in Raph Diaz’s book by the The major emphasis is on construc- Skills for Foldables’ and Part Three, obvious abscence of a section on roll- tional details of kayaks and hunting ‘Using and Enjoying.’ The section on ing in rescue skills. equipment, with a fair number of good evaluating the ‘leading doubles and Leaving aside the folding kayak photographs and diagrams to supple- singles’ is good with comparisons versus rigid kayak debate, folding ment the text. A glossary lists 347 made of: assembly/portability, stabil- kayak owners and prospective own- kayaking terms in Greenlandic, Dan- ity/sea worthiness, tracking, ers will find this a valued resource ish and English. I was a little disap- maneuverability, speed/effeciency, book. pointed by lack of historical photo- versatility/access, quality/durability, * available from Boat Books, 23B, graphs of the various styles of kayaks cost/depreciation. Chapters on sail- Westhaven Drive, Westhaven, Auck- and a lack of detail on paddling tech- ing, camping and repair and land at $49.95. niques and suitability of different boats maintainence, plus good explanational Ph: (09 )430 0580 for various conditions but Petersen photographs to complement the text, ------hopes to have the time for a second round off the first comprehensive book SKINBOATS OF GREENLAND monograph on a description of Man on folding kayaks. by H.C. Petersen and the Kayak, the cultural area which Much of the material in Chapter 1, Ships and Boats of the North the kayak has created in the lives of where Diaz attempts to justify why Volune 1 the Inuit. folding kayaks are better than rigid Published 1986 jointly by The Na- I have only skimmed through the sea kayaks, will make any rigid kayak tional Museum of Denmark, The book so far but one story appealed to paddler with offshore paddling expe- Museum of Greenland and the Viking me and will give you an idea of the rience steam at the nostils. One quote Ship Museum in Roskilde. descriptive writing style used through- from John Heath is included in a sec- Hardback, 104 X 168cms, 215 pages out the book: tion that attempts to state why folding ISBN 87 85180 084 My father told me of old Nikooq kayaks are truer descendents of the English and Danish language editions whose deeds in his prime were re- Eskimo kayak: membered with awe. The men sat one John Heath, noted scholar on This book ranks on a par with Adney evening and reminisced about the Greenland kayaks and paddling tech- and Chapelle’s The Bark and great kayakers while the roar of the niques, feels strongly about the liveli- Skin Kayaks of North America as an storm could be heard from far away. ness and flex of the skin-and-frame authoritive historical document. H.C. Nikooq’s eyes shone. The next morn- design.”Paddling a hardshell kayak Petersen was born in Greenland in ing the storm raged with unabated is like dancing with a department store 1929 and grew up with a traditional force. Nikooq came out of his house mannequin while paddling a folding Inuit family lifestyle. He became con- with a kayak suit on. Because of his kayak or skin boat is like having a cerned with threats to the cultural age he had almost stopped taking his real-like dancing partner.” identity of Greenland Inuits by the kayak out to sea. Now he carried his The foldboats of today bear more transformation from a hunter’s cul- kayak down to the sea, made ready his resemblance to the clinker-built, style ture to that of an industrialized soci- harpoon and then sailed out alone. In large cockpit kayak first built by John ety. In the author’s foreword, he quotes the afternoon he appeared again with McGregor then the slim beamed one of the great kayak seal hunters: a large saddle seal in tow. His face Greenland skin kayaks which I feel is It would be all too sad if the kayak, was burned red by sea spray. The seal a more logical origin for the German which has made it possible for our was pulled in and the folk flocked folding kayaks. The Greenland style forefathers to exist in this harsh coun- around him. Remarks were made kayaks were never beamy with huge try, that vessel which developed out of about his age. “If that seal could talk, cockpits, and bracing and rolling were their experiences and which has also it would have quite a tale to tell,” he basic paddling skills. Also these kay- formed the basis for the existence of *said not and available went to in his NZ wife. to my aks were tailor made to each paddler’s my generation, should be lost forever knowledge. body size so the kayak was ‘worn like when we die.

9 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter No.52 - August - September 1994

LETTER TO THE EDITOR I noted that Sandy Ferguson had from those ex-Vikings. Never the less KASK Forum Paddle actually done this, yet still experi- I highly admire your strong commit- from Glyn Dickson enced the problem the couple in the ment to an expedition. I become a Ron Augustin and I were disturbed by empty Sea Bear had, that is having the whimp in rainy cold days. Right now some of the remarks made by Sandy bow blown around so the kayak I’m stuck in a small town due to Force Ferguson in the July/August KASK pointed at right angles to the wind. In 8 wind. But I’m having the best sea newsletter regarding the incident that this position bodyweight, paddling kayaking experience in my life. Peo- occurred at the Picton Forum. While I style and also style of paddle are very ple here are so kind and have a lot of believe firmly that an open exchange important. The body needs to be leaned respect for seafarers.’ of ideas is to be encouraged so that we into the wind, the paddle should be On July 26, Take rounded Nor- can all learn from each other’s expe- used with a low stroke, and an way’s northernmost point, Nordkapp riences, when people with commer- unfeathered paddle will not be caught or North Cape. His postcard of the cial interests pass judgements on com- by the wind as the paddle blade goes cape shows a rugged, exposed prom- petitor’s products it must be recog- through the air. Having been less than ontory of cliffed, flat-topped head- nized that their comments are usually five metres away from the kayak as it land a little similar to some of the biased to some degree. I am aware of capsized and being the only person highest cliffs around Banks Penin- a number of Sea Bear owners who other than the couple concerned who sula. Well earned congratulations to have spoken and even corresponded actually saw it happen, I believe that a Take for completing a bold and very with Sandy Ferguson disagreeing with capsize would have occurred had it committing expedition. his ‘expert’ opinion of the Sea Bear’s been any double sea kayak currently design, yet he seems to ‘know’ things available in New Zealand. My Rudder Hints about the boats that we don’t know memory of the capsize was that the In August I spent some time with even though we have clocked up thou- kayak was on the crest of a steep Tony Free of Sports in Napier. sands of kilometres paddling them in wave, and the paddle stroke was oc- I picked up a few more hints from all sorts of conditions (including a curring on the down wind side of the Tony regarding rudders. number of trips in the Marlborough kayak when a strong gust hit. Anodizing: the strength and dura- Sounds in high winds). Ron and I take a very low key ap- bility of an aluminium blade rudder Looking back at the Picton inci- proach to selling the Sea Bears as depends on the quality of the alu- dent, talking to people about it and opposed to some other designers and minium used; the higher the grade, reading the different reports, I’m manufacturers who believe in hyping the greater the strength and corrosion struck by the degree of difference up their product, while running down resistance. The strength of a rudder between the accounts of the incident, those of the opposition. We believe blade and resistance to corrosion can particularly from people who were that the Sea Bears sell themselves and be improved by having the blade ano- not actually there. I really enjoyed that if people try them out, and talk to dized. reading John Kirk-Anderson’s report people who actually know how they Foil Shape: the optimum blade shape which was very positive in terms of handle, they will discover just how for mimimizing drag, is a blunt edged viewing the incident as a valuable good the kayaks are. With so many of foil shape, similar to that of an aircraft learning experience, and because he the tour operators using our kayaks in wing. The leading edge (closest to the was writing from his own experience. exposed places like Fiordland, Banks bow) should not be knife-edged sharp My report included in the last news- Peninsula, Wellington and of course but a blunt, semi oval shape while the letter had actually been written for the the Marlborough Sounds, the Sea trailing edge can be feathered towards Wilderness Magazine so I had Bear’s design and safety record have a fine, sharp edge. The best material to downplayed the incident while trying been thoroughly proven. clean aluminium and form the opti- to highlight some of the lessons that Glyn Dickson mum blade shape is wet and dry sand- arose from it. There were a number of Paddling Perfection paper used with kerosene. things that I could have done better in a risk management sense, however NEWS ROUNDUP NZCA/NZCF the main one was given the decision to 1994 Round Norway Kayak Trip At the New Zealand Canoeing Asso- paddle on from the island, I had placed On August 7, Japanese sea kayaking ciation A.G.M., Glyn Dickson re- two light people in a lightweight kev- instructor Takehiro Shibata completed ceived the nod for the position of lar double (35kg), empty of gear, and a 3,000km solo trip from Oslo, near NZCA Sea Kayaking Commodore. with wind gusts that were in excess of the Swedish border, around the ex- Glyn notes: ‘My bottom line is that I 30 knots. If placed in the same situa- posed coast of Norway to the Norwe- believe that KASK should be the sole tion in the future I would load the gian/Russian border. The trip took representative of recreational sea kay- kayak with some form of ballast to Take 109 days of ‘hardship and ex- akers at a national level. With the settle it slightly in the water. This citement.’ In his first postcard, Take NZCA’s move to a federation, this helps to bring the kayak to the dis- noted: ‘It’s been a month to cover clears the way for KASK to be “offi- placement that it has been designed 1,000kms. So it’s been slow progress. cially” recognized as such. “Offi- for, in the same way that cargo vessels My purpose is to meet people on the cially” really comes down to funding ballast with water between ports. way and gather knowledge of the sea where Hillary Commission, Water

10 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter No.52 - August - September 1994

Safety Council, Sports Foundation etc sion. On a recent trip Chris took along Unclassified Adverts only want to deal with one canoeing/ a formal suit and dress shoes which he In this newsletter we were going to kayaking body for the whole of NZ. If donned after setting up his tent on a carry an advertisement for mail order KASK decides to go it alone without beach to attend a dance at the local books from Canoe and Outdoor the NZCF (NZ Canoeing Federation), bowling club. Well, three ladies ended World, Christchurch however Stephen we cut ourselves off from consider- up coming back to the beach with Counsell suffered an out of body bone able resources. him, uncertain if he was pulling their fracture as a result of a skiing legs or not about arriving by kayak acccident. Our commiserations Correspondence Received and camping on the beach. Satin sheets Stephen and best wishes for a speedy With KASK now listed in Sea Kay- are on the check list for the next trip! recovery. aker magazine, some promotional ma- Regarding the new form of coastal terial has been received from over- hazard, this is not one mentioned in Aussie Books seas. I will list those below and if any guide or manual about sea kayak- The Round Australia Kayak Odyssey anyone would like the information ing. Chris landed on a nudist beach, books are still in print. The last 200 of forwarded, please phone/fax or write: which was backed by a row of sand the print run I had bound as hardbacks a. Northwest Outdoor Center, sea dunes. As he soaked up the sun, Chris which have a really nice finish. Prices kayak instruction and trips on the USA was horrified by the sight of a person, for mail/courier order are: Pacific Coast who was not of the fairer sex, making Limpbound (softback) $43 one course called the ‘Total Immer- improper advances and gesticulating Hardback $52.50 sion school of sea kayaking’ at him from the base of a dune. Price include GST and P& P b. Irian Adventures; sea kayaking and Removing a knife, about the size of For the hardback, please include a rafting in Irian Jaya (Indonesian New a small bayonet from his kayak, Chris street address rather than a Post Of- Guinea) threatened to remove the person’s fice box for courier delivery. Only willie if he failed to desist in his ad- negative feedback on the book so far New Australian Coastal Hazard vances. is from the wife of the helicopter pilot Recently in Sydney, at the AGM of Well if you have ever tried to run up I work with. This lass is a bit of a Mills the New South Wales Sea Kayak Club, the face of a steep sand dune, or plough and Boon fan and reckons there is not I gained an insight into recent devel- up a steep slope in powder snow, you enough passion for her. opments with deck fixtures and a new can picture the scene that followed as I sent out 500 mailers to public and form of coastal hazard. This particu- the terror stricken flasher attempted high school libraries and to date only lar paddler Chris is a bit of a character. to escape. Then nearly at the top of the 27 have bought the book. If you visit He has a lightweight solar panel dune, he remembered where his your local library, please request the mounted on deck which trickle charges clothes where - at the base of the dune the book! a gel battery which powers his shaver, - and had to slide all the way down a light in the tent and a small televi- again.

Bevan Walker pushing into a strong north-westerly wind in Thompson Sound, Fiordland. Photo: Craig Hornblow

11 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter No.52 - August - September 1994

If undelivered, please return to Sandy Ferguson, 12 Dunn St., Christchurch. 2

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