Spain Spain Jaén Jaén Úbeda, Baeza and the Sierra de Cazorla EUROPEAN COMMUNITY Úbeda, Baeza and the Sierra de Cazorla European Regional Development Fund I UNITED KINGDOM Dublin IRELAND London Paris FRANCE Bay of Biscay Madrid TUGAL SPAIN Úbeda 3 POR Atlantic Ocean Lisbon Baeza 10 Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas Nature Park 17 Park Tours 24 Mediterranean Sea Useful addresses 30 Ceuta Melilla ALGERIA MOROCCO Front cover : Cazorla Back cover : San Salvador. Úbeda The hills of Úbeda "Yonder in those hills, Sire", the nobleman, Álvar Fáñez, is reputed to have languidly replied to King Alfonso VIII, when required by that vexed monarch to give an account of his whereabouts during a battle against the Moors. Tradition insists that Álvar Fáñez, like many a fellow knight, preferred to dally in the company of a comely damsel than to wield sword and battle axe at the side of his king. Yet the real reason for his forsaking Alfonso at the gates of the City of Úbeda lay in the uneasy relations between royalty and nobility. This was the 13th century, a time of continuous skirmishing between Moor and Christian, and one that gave rise to as many castles as it did legends. The cities of Baeza and Úbeda –seized in turn by one or the other side- were ultimately to pass into Christian hands under King Ferdinand III el Santo (i.e., the Holy, sometimes referred to as St. Ferdinand), who, having forged a better understanding with his feuding noble factions, finally conquered Baeza in 1227 and Úbeda some seven years later. Mosques were transformed into churches, and civic buildings changed owners and outward appearance, yet monumental structures of the Caliphate era nonetheless managed to survive, G Baeza. St. Francis’ e.g., the Real Monasterio de Santa Clara in Úbeda, and the Aliatares Tower in Baeza. Úbeda and Baeza: Renaissance splendour. G Úbeda. Palace of the Chains beda Emerging at the southern end of the Despeñaperros Pass, hillsides neatly planted with row upon row of olive trees herald one's arrival in the 2 Province of Jaén. Nestling here, in the very centre of the province, in a district aptly named La Loma (The Hill), are the historic cities of Úbeda and Baeza officially declared World Heritage Sites. These two cities, UU along with Salamanca and Alcalá de Henares, are Spain's best examples of a style known as Civic Renaissance. Whilst Úbeda may abound in palaces that are privately owned, those of Baeza are almost all in the public domain. Also Renaissance in style are the castle-palaces that dot the outlying areas, such as those of Sabiote and Canena... while, marching away in every direction, are the eternal olive groves, those same groves whose praises were sung by, Antonio Machado, a poet always more given to celebrating Nature than stone. C . A. Ariza Machado Calle Úbeda Plaza Guadalimar . de C Olleros eraleda C C Calle Calle P re . C. V. Aleg . de la Merced Úbeda: palace by palace a CanónigoCalle Madroñal C. Calle H. S . C Millán men Carnicerito uela Soledad Car Gallo Rodader . Agua C . Aguirre del Calle Tr . illo C Higuer Ángel C H. C C Cuesta Ringed by its olive groves, Úbeda stands guard over one of Spain's del Barrios 30 Plaza Hierro Calle Losal . F. 31 . Cobatillas C Iruelo C de . C C Nicolás Oratorio de richest artistic heritages. uz San G. Cr Calle C San Juan de la Cruz de istán Díaz 24 C. Campanario Pl. Sta. 22 Although the marks of Roman and Moor, of Romanesque and uz Sta. Calle C SacrC Teresa a . Corcoles Montiel v . C F Gothic are all in evidence, it is the many 16th-century Renaissance . Lucía C C de los Cobos . Caballer . to 23 Nadal FERNANDO de la Cr C . C Calle izas entanas .Cer . Na churches and palaces that are the city's outstanding feature and the V v . J . Puer antes 16 v S de la Cue arro C SAN . Pl. de 20 C B reason it was officially designated an Historic-Artistic Ensemble in 1975. 28 Calle . Sta. Lucía Redondo Calle Plaza del 18 T L. DE Palacio de C 21 rinidadC. 2 los Porceles Rojas 1º de Mayo 27 ador ador Indeed, Álvar Fáñez may or may not have roamed the Úbeda hills, las R. P Plaza . entaja 1 Obispo C V 19 Pl. Padre C. Aguardenteria 17 C P . but somebody who unquestionably did so (and spent much of his 25 C vas arr C Antonio T . Obispo . Er Cue as C 3 . Baja del. SalvAlta del Salv as Alcázar time in the process) was Andrés de Vandelvira, the one architect who . C P CORREDERA de Molina C C ar Caldereros . REAL . Almenas Calle CALLE . M. Pl. del Pl. de Vázquez aíso C C 11 C designed and built most of the monumental Renaissance buildings . P Pl. de Ayuntamiento de Molina . Juan . Blanca ascual C C 4 C P Iglesia de A. Torres 9 . J . Sta. Don P uan Montilla Plaza de San Pedro . 10 8 5 both in this city and throughout the province. In the Province of Jaén, J María . C Calle Andalucía . B C C . Marqués . Homenaje 29 Pl. SanReal Monasterio C. to speak of Renaissance is to speak of Andrés de Vandelvira. T Mª Soledad Minas Mesones CALLE Pedro de Santa Clara orres C Jesús C 7 . Andújar. Jerquía Baja . Pr C Calle Acosta Palaces seem to cascade along any Úbeda street, and the Old Nar 12 ior Monteagudo adas váez de Calle . al . a P Gr C 6 . ajal Quarter in particular simply overflows with mansions of this kind. v Mor . er C 26 . 15 C P C RASTR Pl. del C. adilla Riv Car Calle C. Muro Zaus Marqués C. S. Domingo Saludeja The most sumptuous of these were put up in the 16th century. Casa de de Calle C. J Sol A. Calle urado los Morales . Molinos Obispo32 Cobos C. ina Then, in the 17th century, economic problems reared their head Calle O y Calle Ancha Gómez13 C Cotr Calle 14 Calle and quality began to decline. Even today, many still continue in isto Luna Calle . entanasPuerta de Calle Chir . Cr C V Jorge C . Granada . S . private hands, whilst others house public bodies of one kind or . Alaminos inos C B Casa del C C San Calle . S Regidor Pl. S. C . P Jorge N another. In all, the city has over five hundred listed buildings, . Fuente Lagar Lorenzo Iglesia de Calle astores amento San Lorenzo alos Ca catalogued for their monumental or artistic interest. to Cartografía: GCAR S.L. Año 2002 . Sacr v . Dáv C a C It is advisable to do this tour during the early hours of the morning or after nightfall, when the buildings are bathed in spotlight and the feeling of travelling four hundred years back in time is that much more real. The best time to take photographs is at dusk, when the 1. Sacred Chapel of the Saviour 16. Church of San Pablo sun's rays play upon the façades, gilding them and forming 2. Hospital de los Honrados 17. Old City Hall arabesques of light and shade. On days when the heat is intense, the y Venerables Viejos de 18. House of Don Francisco de womenfolk hose down the streets, and the cooling effect of the El Salvador LISTA DE MONUMENTOS los Cobos evaporating water adds to the pleasure of a leisurely stroll. 3. Deán Ortega Palace 19. Salvajes House 4 1. Sacra Capilla de El Salvador del Mundo 17. Antiguo Ayuntamiento 5 4. Antiguo Pósito 20. Mudejar House 2. Hospital de los Honrados Viejos 18. Palacio de Don Francisco de los Cobos G Old City Hall 3. 5.PalacioPalace Deán of Ortega the Marqués (Parador de Turismo)21.19.Los Casa Manueles de los Salvajes House 4. Antiguode Mancera Pósito 20. Casa Mudéjar 5. Palacio del Marqués de Mancera 22.21.Obispo Casa de Canastero los Manueles Houses 6. 6.CárcelCár delcel Obispo del Obispo 22. Casa del Obispo Canastero 23. Torrente Palace 7. 7.SantaChurch María ofde losSanta Reales María Alcázares de 23. Palacio de la calle de Montiel 8. Palacio de las Cadenas 24.24.Concepción Convento de ConventCarmelitas Descalzas 9. Palaciolos Reales Vela de Alcázarlos Coboses 25. Iglesia de la Trinidad 10.8. PalacioPalace de of Orozco the Chains 25.26.Church Iglesia deof Santhe IsidoroHoly Trinity 11. Palacio del Conde de Guadiana 27. Palacio de los Bussianos 12.9. PalacioVela dedel Marquéslos Cobos de ContaderoPalace 26.28.Church Casa del of Caballerizo San Isidoro Ortega 13.10. PalacioOrozco de MedinillaMansion 27.29.Bussianos Torre del RelojPalace 14. Palacio Casa de Las Torres 30. Puerta del Losal 15.11. PalacioConde de dela Rambla Guadiana Mansion 28.31.Caballerizo Iglesia de San Ortega Nicolás Palace 16. Iglesia de San Pablo 32. Hospital de Santiago 12. Marqués Contadero Mansion 29. Clock Tower 13. Medinilla Mansion 30. Losal Gate 14. Torres Mansion 31. Church of San Nicolás 15. La Rambla Mansion 32. Hospital de Santiago Información turística P Aparcamiento A tour of Úbeda Tours tend to start and finish at the Plaza de Vázquez de Molina (plaza; square). All the main sights are grouped in and around the square, the most beautiful of all being the Sacred Chapel of the Saviour (Sacra Capilla de El Salvador del Mundo) which, though designed by Diego de Siloé, was ultimately finished, supervised and built by Andrés de Vandelvira. More examples of Vandelvira's work are to be found in the portal of the Hospital de los Honrados y Venerables Viejos de El Salvador nearby and, lying adjacent to both Chapel and Hospital, the Deán Ortega Palace (nowadays the "Condestable Dávalos" Tourist Parador).