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Jaén Úbeda, Baeza and the Sierra de

Jaén Spain Úbeda, Baeza and the

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Madrid TUGAL SPAIN Úbeda 3 POR Atlantic Ocean Lisbon Baeza 10 Cazorla, Segura and Nature Park 17 Park Tours 24 Mediterranean Sea Useful addresses 30

Ceuta Melilla ALGERIA

MOROCCO Front cover : Cazorla Back cover : San Salvador. Úbeda

The hills of Úbeda

"Yonder in those hills, Sire", the nobleman, Álvar Fáñez, is reputed to have languidly replied to King Alfonso VIII, when required by that vexed monarch to give an account of his whereabouts during a battle against the Moors. Tradition insists that Álvar Fáñez, like many a fellow knight, preferred to dally in the company of a comely damsel than to wield sword and battle axe at the side of his king. Yet the real reason for his forsaking Alfonso at the gates of the City of Úbeda lay in the uneasy relations between royalty and nobility. This was the 13th century, a time of continuous skirmishing between Moor and Christian, and one that gave rise to as many castles as it did legends. The cities of Baeza and Úbeda –seized in turn by one or the other side- were ultimately to pass into Christian hands under King Ferdinand III el Santo (i.e., the Holy, sometimes referred to as St. Ferdinand), who, having forged a better understanding with his feuding noble factions, finally conquered Baeza in 1227 and Úbeda some seven years later. Mosques were transformed into churches, and civic buildings changed owners and outward appearance, yet monumental structures of the Caliphate era nonetheless managed to survive, G Baeza. St. Francis’ e.g., the Real Monasterio de Santa Clara in Úbeda, and the Aliatares Tower in Baeza.

Úbeda and Baeza: Renaissance splendour. G Úbeda. Palace of the Chains beda Emerging at the southern end of the Despeñaperros Pass, hillsides neatly planted with row upon row of olive trees herald one's arrival in the 2 Province of Jaén. Nestling here, in the very centre of the province, in a district aptly named (The Hill), are the historic cities of Úbeda and Baeza officially declared World Heritage Sites. These two cities, UU along with Salamanca and Alcalá de Henares, are Spain's best examples of a style known as Civic Renaissance. Whilst Úbeda may abound in palaces that are privately owned, those of Baeza are almost all in the public domain. Also Renaissance in style are the castle-palaces that dot the outlying areas, such as those of and ... while, marching away in every direction, are the eternal olive groves, those same groves whose praises were sung by, Antonio Machado, a poet always more given to celebrating Nature than stone.

C . A. Ariza Machado Calle Úbeda Plaza Guadalimar . de

C Olleros

eraleda C C Calle Calle P re . C. V. Aleg . de la Merced Úbeda: palace by palace a CanónigoCalle Madroñal C. Calle H. S . . C Millán men Carnicerito uela Soledad Car Gallo Rodader . Agua

C . Aguirre del

Calle Tr . illo C Higuer Ángel C H. . . C C Cuesta Ringed by its olive groves, Úbeda stands guard over one of Spain's del Barrios 30 Plaza Hierro Calle Losal . F. 31 . Cobatillas C Iruelo C de

. C C Nicolás Oratorio de richest artistic heritages.

. uz San G. . Cr Calle C San Juan de la Cruz de istán Díaz 24 C. Campanario Pl. Sta. 22 Although the marks of Roman and Moor, of Romanesque and uz Sta.

Calle C SacrC Teresa a . . Corcoles Montiel v . C F Gothic are all in evidence, it is the many 16th-century Renaissance

. Lucía C C de los Cobos . Caballer . to 23 Nadal FERNANDO de la Cr C . C Calle izas entanas .Cer . Na churches and palaces that are the city's outstanding feature and the V v . J . Puer antes 16 v S de la Cue arro C SAN . . Pl. de 20 C B reason it was officially designated an Historic-Artistic Ensemble in 1975. 28 Calle . Sta. Lucía Redondo Calle Plaza del 18 T L. DE Palacio de C 21 rinidadC. 2 los Porceles Rojas 1º de Mayo 27 ador ador Indeed, Álvar Fáñez may or may not have roamed the Úbeda hills, las R. P Plaza . entaja 1 Obispo C V 19 Pl. Padre C. Aguardenteria 17 C P . . but somebody who unquestionably did so (and spent much of his 25 C vas arr C Antonio T . Obispo . Er Cue as C 3 . Baja del. SalvAlta del Salv as Alcázar time in the process) was Andrés de Vandelvira, the one architect who . C P CORREDERA de Molina C C ar Caldereros . REAL . Almenas Calle CALLE . M. Pl. del Pl. de Vázquez aíso C C 11 C designed and built most of the monumental Renaissance buildings . P Pl. de Ayuntamiento de Molina . Juan . Blanca ascual C C 4 C P Iglesia de A. Torres 9 . J . Sta. Don P uan Montilla Plaza de San Pedro . 10 8 5 both in this city and throughout the province. In the Province of Jaén, J María . C Calle Andalucía . B C C . Marqués . Homenaje 29 Pl. SanReal Monasterio C. to speak of Renaissance is to speak of Andrés de Vandelvira. T Mª Soledad Minas Mesones CALLE Pedro de Santa Clara orres C Jesús C 7 . Andújar. Jerquía Baja . Pr C Calle Acosta Palaces seem to cascade along any Úbeda street, and the Old Nar 12 ior Monteagudo adas váez de Calle . al . a P Gr C 6 . ajal Quarter in particular simply overflows with mansions of this kind. v Mor . er C 26 . 15 C P C RASTR Pl. del C. adilla Riv Car Calle C. Muro Zaus Marqués C. S. Domingo Saludeja The most sumptuous of these were put up in the 16th century. Casa de de Calle C. J Sol A. Calle urado los Morales . Molinos Obispo32 Cobos C. ina Then, in the 17th century, economic problems reared their head Calle O y Calle Ancha Gómez13 C Cotr Calle 14 Calle and quality began to decline. Even today, many still continue in isto Luna Calle . entanasPuerta de Calle Chir . Cr C V Jorge C . . S . private hands, whilst others house public bodies of one kind or . Alaminos inos C B Casa del C C San Calle . S Regidor Pl. S. C . P Jorge N another. In all, the city has over five hundred listed buildings, . Fuente Lagar Lorenzo Iglesia de Calle astores amento San Lorenzo alos Ca catalogued for their monumental or artistic interest. to Cartografía: GCAR S.L. Año 2002 . Sacr v . Dáv C a C It is advisable to do this tour during the early hours of the morning or after nightfall, when the buildings are bathed in spotlight and the feeling of travelling four hundred years back in time is that much more real. The best time to take photographs is at dusk, when the 1. Sacred Chapel of the Saviour 16. Church of San Pablo sun's rays play upon the façades, gilding them and forming 2. Hospital de los Honrados 17. Old City Hall arabesques of light and shade. On days when the heat is intense, the y Venerables Viejos de 18. House of Don Francisco de womenfolk hose down the streets, and the cooling effect of the El Salvador LISTA DE MONUMENTOS los Cobos evaporating water adds to the pleasure of a leisurely stroll. 3. Deán Ortega Palace 19. Salvajes House 4 1. Sacra Capilla de El Salvador del Mundo 17. Antiguo Ayuntamiento 5 4. Antiguo Pósito 20. Mudejar House 2. Hospital de los Honrados Viejos 18. Palacio de Don Francisco de los Cobos G Old City Hall 3. 5.PalacioPalace Deán of Ortega the Marqués (Parador de Turismo)21.19.Los Casa Manueles de los Salvajes House 4. Antiguode Mancera Pósito 20. Casa Mudéjar 5. Palacio del Marqués de Mancera 22.21.Obispo Casa de Canastero los Manueles Houses 6. 6.CárcelCár delcel Obispo del Obispo 22. Casa del Obispo Canastero 23. Torrente Palace 7. 7.SantaChurch María ofde losSanta Reales María Alcázares de 23. Palacio de la calle de Montiel 8. Palacio de las Cadenas 24.24.Concepción Convento de ConventCarmelitas Descalzas 9. Palaciolos Reales Vela de Alcázarlos Coboses 25. Iglesia de la Trinidad 10.8. PalacioPalace de of Orozco the Chains 25.26.Church Iglesia deof Santhe IsidoroHoly Trinity 11. Palacio del Conde de Guadiana 27. Palacio de los Bussianos 12.9. PalacioVela dedel Marquéslos Cobos de ContaderoPalace 26.28.Church Casa del of Caballerizo San Isidoro Ortega 13.10. PalacioOrozco de MedinillaMansion 27.29.Bussianos Torre del RelojPalace 14. Palacio Casa de Las Torres 30. Puerta del Losal 15.11. PalacioConde de dela Rambla Guadiana Mansion 28.31.Caballerizo Iglesia de San Ortega Nicolás Palace 16. Iglesia de San Pablo 32. Hospital de Santiago 12. Marqués Contadero Mansion 29. Clock Tower 13. Medinilla Mansion 30. Losal Gate 14. Torres Mansion 31. Church of San Nicolás 15. La Rambla Mansion 32. Hospital de Santiago Información turística P Aparcamiento

A tour of Úbeda

Tours tend to start and finish at the Plaza de Vázquez de Molina (plaza; square). All the main sights are grouped in and around the square, the most beautiful of all being the Sacred Chapel of the Saviour (Sacra Capilla de El Salvador del Mundo) which, though designed by Diego de Siloé, was ultimately finished, supervised and built by Andrés de Vandelvira. More examples of Vandelvira's work are to be found in the portal of the Hospital de los Honrados y Venerables Viejos de El Salvador nearby and, lying adjacent to both Chapel and Hospital, the Deán Ortega Palace (nowadays the "Condestable Dávalos" Tourist Parador). Standing on this same square are the Antiguo Pósito (public granary), the Palace of the Marqués de Mancera, the so-called Bishop's Jail (Cárcel del Obispo, where sinning nuns were locked up on the orders of the bishop) and the Collegiate Church of Santa María de los Reales Alcázares (St. Mary's), with an interesting Gothic cloister G La Rambla Mansion G Antiguo Pósito on the site of what was once the patio (courtyard) of a mosque. Off to one side is City Hall Square (Plaza del Ayuntamiento) with the Palace of the Chains (Palacio de las Cadenas), also by Vandelvira. Wandering down the lanes and alleys to the left, one comes across a number of palatial edifices, such as Vandelvira's Vela de los Cobos Palace, and the Orozco, Conde de Guadiana, Marqués de Contadero, Medinilla, Morales, Torres and La Rambla Mansions. G Hospital de Santiago (St. James' Hospital) Away to the right is a square, popularly known in the past as the "Plaza del Mercado" (Market Square ) and now renamed Plaza 1 de Mayo, with the Church of San Pablo (St. Paul’s) and the Old City Hall (Antiguo Ayuntamiento), unmistakably Italian in influence.

G Courtyard of the Torres Mansion

6

In the surrounding streets are yet more palaces, which abut onto tiny squares and feature wrought iron window grilles and noble escutcheons, e.g., the House of Don Francisco de los Cobos, the spectacular Salvajes House, the Mudejar (home to the Archaeological Museum - mudejar being the term used to describe the style favoured by the Moorish minorities), Los Manueles and Obispo Canastero Houses and, on Calle Montiel (calle; street), the Torrente Palace. Montiel street leads into Corredera de San Fernando, the site of the Convent of the Discalced (i.e., barefoot) Carmelites (Convento de la Concepción de las Carmelitas Descalzas). Some way farther on is the Plaza de Andalucía, distinguishable by the palatial balconies of the Calle Real, marking the corner where square and street meet. Nearby are the Church and Convent of the Holy Trinity (Santísima Trinidad), the Church of San Isidoro (St. Isidore's) –another of Vandelvira's works– the Bussianos and Caballerizo Ortega Palaces, and rising on one of the turrets of the old city wall, the Clock Tower (Torre del Reloj). A niche in the tower is a small shrine (hornacina) to the Virgen de los Remedios, and it was here that monarchs would come to swear on oath that they would honour and respect the city's jurisdictional rights. Yet more sights await: the Church of San Nicolás (St. Nicholas'), G Church of the Saviour and Tourist Parador the enormous edifice that is the Hospital de Santiago (Santiago; St. James) –both, as usual, designed by Vandelvira– and the Losal Gate (Puerta del Losal), another entrance way into the Úbeda of old. Handicrafts G Vela de los Cobos Palace

Úbeda continues to be famed for its ceramicware, a legacy of its Moorish past. Originally known for its reddish glaze, there has been a shift to what has become a trademark shade of green. Pottery and ceramics are the main handicrafts found throughout the province, but it is the wares of Úbeda, with their typical hue, 9 that are best known. This activity has been traditionally associated with a small number of families, such as the Tito and Almarza clans, and the Alameda Brothers, whose pottery works are located on the town's outskirts. Other items produced hereabouts are rush mats (made from esparto-grass) and ornate lanterns.

Calle Calle C. P del Car aseo Rojo es Plaza de y Julio men Requena Parque de NEBRERAC . Godo Burrel . F C o de Leocadio Marín . Moro 31 Castillo y al. Machesis de . Calle C. Gr C G. . C 25 Baeza, Pobre y Señora de las Minas del Pl. Cándido Agua 24 . Plaza de las Elorza 30 C Sacr C 14 29 Cjón. Sta. Clara . Biedma as amento C Cozar . 23 S Mur San . J

28 Sta. ALCALDE Barrer . Plaza del Bautista allas o Gral. Samaniego "Entre Úbeda y Baeza (Twixt Úbeda and Baeza 21 Calle a Cruz DELCalle Magdalena er Calle Calle 22 v P –loma de las dos hermanas: –one hill to saddle two sisters: Cor ab . C. Calle 12 Plaza V lo 26 Compañía A Concepción Santa Cruz Plaza de C Baeza, pobre y señora; Baeza, poor but a lady; Alcón Plaza de . Barbacana Palacio a España 3

nero P P 20

Úbeda, reina y gitana–." Úbeda, queen yet a gypsy–). C C Calle arr aseo or aseo . Nue P Ávila . Sta. . 17 va del Rojo T 19 10 13 Plaza B Ana la váez 7 . Santa María C de C Calle de Baeza may lie a mere nine kilometres from Úbeda but despite this C Vieja . Nar . Bena Plaza de de . 16 15 C C Romanones 18 la . Arcediano Cubillo T P. 11 C proximity, the twin cities have nothing in common. Indeed, the rivalry 27 undidores Alhóndiga . vides Constitución P ado . Alta iano ur 32 Mengíbar between the two goes back a long way, as can be seen from the J 9 . ancisco a O C. Los Molinos r Cipr . Becerr Calle C F . Plaza C. Sta. Carolina above stanza penned by the poet, Antonio Machado, who worked as Gaspar C Motilla C 8 Cruz Verde Calle Plaza de la C Calle . 4 E. Pintada . a secondary school teacher in Baeza. Whilst Úbeda looks to industry Constitución 5 C. M. Baja San Santo Atarazanas Plaza del 6 Garcerán for a living, Baeza relies more on farming... nevertheless, both are Calle Pópulo 2 C Calle . C 1 Nicueza Oteses de . . C Imagen P C similarly encircled by serried ranks of olive groves. Calle . F . CALLE DEL A Calle Platerías Córdoba . Córdoba Iglesia de Sta. Mª del Alcázar la a y San Andrés C C . Antón . P What rankles the townspeople of Úbeda most is the fact that Baeza San . . Calle Nar C Alhambr de váez Iglesia San has a cathedral and they do not: to make matters worse, there are Calle Los Cobos Convento de ianodel Salvador C. la Encarnación Cipr la la Ojeda io Calle only two cathedrals in the entire province, one in Baeza and the other Andrés Campanar Iglesia uan Calle GU C. San J ta aza in Jaén itself, the provincial capital. Moreover, Baeza's Cathedral, built Calle Puer edr A Glor Doctor Pl. de Don on the site of a former mosque, is precisely the one building by José León Calle P ia . C. San Blas Gracia CAMINO

C de Calle alomino María del Calle Vandelvira in the city that deserves the accolade of "masterpiece". Sta. Palacio de los Pl. Miguel C C. Calle Hor C. Maestro P. Cr Condes de Mejorada de Cervantes Vandelvira's hand is also to be seen in the Benavides Chapel, located in Calle Charco uz ada San

the Convent of San Francisco, near the City Hall (Ayuntamiento). Cur no Muñoz Reinosos Vicente This latter building -now an officially declared National Iglesia del Convento de N a Jesús de los Descalzos REAL Calle . Conde Mejor Monument- is Plateresque in style (plata, Spanish for silver, . México C Cartografía: GCAR S.L. Año 2002 v. Perú v denoting the likeness to silver filigree) and began life as a prison. A A Dating from 1520, when the Emperor Charles I signed the Royal Assent authorising its construction, the palace is one of the leading examples of Andalusian Plateresque. In 1867, after being suitably refurbished, it became the seat of the Municipal Authorities and Law Courts (Palacio de Justicia). Emblasoned on the four balconies 1. Jaén Gate LISTA DE MONUMENTOS17. Casasaeza Consistoriales Altas lining the upper storey are the coats of arms of King Philip II, Don Juan 2. Villalar Arch 18. San Felipe Neri Seminary de Borja (the Corregidor or Chief Magistrate, who ordered the building 1. Puerta de Jaén 17. Casas Consistoriales Altas 3. Pósito 2. Arco de Villalar 19.18.Church Seminario of dethe San Hospital Felipe Neri de 3. Pósito 19.la IglesiaPurísima del Hospital de la Purísima 10 G Cathedral 4. Audiencia 4. Audiencia Civil Civil (Casa del Pópulo) 20. Caserón de Rubín de Ceballos 11 5. Antigua Carnicería 20.21.Rubín Convento de Ceballosde la Magdalena Mansion 5. Antigua 6. Fuente Carnicería de Los Leones 22. Casa de los Mendoza 21. Magdalena Convent 6. Fuente 7. Alhóndiga de los Leones 23. Palacio de los Elorza 8. Casas Consistoriales Bajas 22.24.Mendoza Paseo de lasHouse Murallas 7. Alhóndiga 9. Capilla del Cristo del Cambrón 25. Puerta de Úbeda 10. Antigua Universidad 23.26.Elorza Torre dePalace los Aliatares BB8. Casas11. Arco Consistoriales del Barbudo Bajas 27. Convento de San Francisco 12. Iglesia de Santa Cruz 24.28.Paseo Palacio de de las los Murallas Condes de Garcíez 9. Chapel of Cristo del Cambrón 13. Palacio de 25.29.Úbeda Palacio Gate Cerón 10. Old14. IglesiaUniversity de San Pablo 30. Casa Acuña 15. Catedral 26.31.Aliatares Casa Cabrera Tower 11. Barbudo16. Fuente Arch de Santa María 27.32.Ruins Ayuntamiento of St. Francis' 12. Church of Santa Cruz 28. Condes de Garciez Palace Información turística 13. Jabalquinto Palace 29. Cerón Palace P 14. Church Aparcamientoof San Pablo 30. Acuña House 15. Cathedral 31. Cabrera House 16. Santa María Fountain 32. City Hall

G Jabalquinto Palace A tour of Baeza enlarged in 1559) and the City of Baeza, as well as an abundance of The tour starts at the Jaén Gate, the main entry point into the city for decorative garlands, candelabras, mythical beasts, horns of plenty and as long as anyone can recall. Adjoining this gate is the Villalar Arch figures of various kinds. (Arco de Villalar), commemorating the imperial victory over the Baeza, in the guise of Vivatia, Comuneros of Castile at the battle from which the monument takes its capital city of a people called the name (comuneros; commoner's uprising crushed in 1521). The square Viacenses, is mentioned by the into which the gate leads, the Plaza de los Leones (Lions' Square), is Roman historian, Pliny. With the the most elegant in all of Baeza and facing onto it are many of the arrival of the Moors, the city, now city's principal sights. Alongside the Arch itself is the Audiencia Civil renamed Bayyasa, was the capital of (Law Courts), also known as the Casa del Pópulo and now home to a territory stretching from the Sierra Morena Range to the River the Tourist Office. Cheek by jowl with this building stands the former . Though conquered by Ferdinand III el Santo in the 13th abattoir, the Antigua Carnicería (recognisable by the enormous century, it was not until the 16th century that Baeza reached a pinnacle imperial coat of arms on its façade) and, in the centre of the square, is of splendour, and it is from this time that most of the monumental the Fuente de los Leones (Fountain of the Lions), with a stone buildings date. This era also saw the rise of the city's university, sister to statue depicting a female figure, traditionally thought to be Imilce, that of Salamanca, where St. (San Juan de la Cruz) Hannibal's wife, born in what was the town of Cástulo and is now and St. John of Avila both lectured. The city walls were torn down -as Linares. Off at a slight angle, just where the Paseo de la Constitución were several towers- at the behest of Queen Isabel the Catholic, begins, are the venerable buildings of La Alhóndiga (Grain Exchange), "so that", say the locals, "the town might be better viewed". Visible on El Pósito (public granary), and Casas Consistoriales Bajas. the city limits, where the line of buildings straggles to an end, are those Go via Conde de Romanones and Beato Juan de Avila streets, same olive groves that Machado once celebrated in his verse: lined with old seigneurial mansions, to reach the Old University “Cerca de Úbeda la grande, cuyos cerros nadie verá, me iba siguiendo la luna sobre el olivar”. (Hard by Úbeda so stately, whose hills no soul will see, did the moon pursue and stalk me o'er and through the olive trees). G Plaza de los Leones

(with the classroom where the poet, Antonio Machado, taught French Sabiote, , Canena and for several years), the so-called Barbudo Arch and the Cristo del Cambrón Chapel (Capilla). Carry on as far as the small square of Santa Cruz, site of the Church of Santa Cruz (Holy Cross) and Jabalquinto Also situated in the La Loma district is Sabiote (8 kilometres from Palace, a stunning example of Isabeline-Gothic. Be sure to go inside to Úbeda) which, together with Úbeda and Baeza, forms part of the see the building's Renaissance courtyard and monumental Baroque province's Renaissance trilogy. An officially declared Historic-Artistic stairway. Opposite is the San Felipe Neri Seminary and, almost no Ensemble, its castle-palace and town walls constitute Jaén's most distance away, is Baeza's other major monumental ensemble, presided important 16th-century military monument. The fortress, which over by the Cathedral (constructed over a former mosque). Highlights dominates the valley and commands a sweeping view that extends include the church's 13th-century Mudejar-Gothic Luna Door (luna; from the Sierra Morena all the way across to the Sierra Mágina Range, moon), its 15th-century rose window and the main façade, the pièce was first Roman and then Moorish, until finally captured by Ferdinand III de resistance of its 16th-century Renaissance style. To one side of the el Santo, in 1227. Its impressive outward appearance provides a stark cathedral are the Santa María Fountain and the Casas Consistoriales contrast to its ruined interior. The walls, for their part, retain a number Altas, its door surmounted by the royal escutcheons of Joanna (Juana) of arches, including the Chiringote and Pilarillo Arches, where the the Mad and Philip I, forebears of the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V. town sallies forth to meet the surrounding olive groves. At the rear of the cathedral is the Rubín de Ceballos It was Andrés de Vandelvira who in the 16th century Mansionhouse (caserón). Follow Calle de San Juan Bautista past reconstructed the castle and gave it its Plateresque doorway. other noble buildings, such as the Bishops' (Obispos) Palace, Dating from the same era are some of the town's seigneurial Avila House and the Romanesque Ruins of San Juan, to the residences, such as the Melgarejos, or as it is better known, street's junction with the Paseo de las Murallas, from where a Manillas House (i.e., nicknamed "Hands" due to the enormous fine view can be had of the olive groves. door knockers), and the Messía, Leva and Columnas Mansions. The Plaza de Requena leads to the Úbeda Gate and thence, via Only four kilometres away is the town of Torreperogil. All that is Calle Barreras, to the Plaza de España, the very heart of the city. Visible left standing of its former castle are some vestiges of the wall and two from here is the Aliatares Tower, one of Baeza's few remaining round towers in the town centre, suggestively dubbed the "Torres Moorish vestiges. Still waiting to be seen are the ruins of San Francisco Oscuras" or "Dark Towers". Further local sights include the Renaissance (converted into a concert venue) and the old stately homes situated in Church of Santa María and an early medieval Old Quarter. the Calle de San Pablo area, buildings such as the Condes de Garciez Another castle of importance, on which Vandelvira likewise left Palace, Cerón Palace, Acuña House, Cabrera House, Elorza Palace, his mark, is that of Canena (8 kilometres from Baeza). Currently in as well as the Church of San Pablo (St. Paul's). Turn into Calle private hands, it is in a perfect state of preservation. Magdalena to see Mendoza House and the Magdalena Convent. Lastly, just three kilometres on from Canena, is Ibros, the site of a striking 4th-century-B.C. Iberian wall of gigantic proportions which, though designated as an Historic-Artistic Monument, has as 14 15 yet hardly been excavated.

G Antigua Carnicería G Casa del Pópulo G Santa María Fountain

Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas, the largest nature reserve in Spain azorla Together, the Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas mountain ranges (sierras) form a key water-catchment area in which the Guadalquivir and Segura Rivers rise. This is a watershed area with a climate subject to both Atlantic and Mediterranean influences, and is home to two large reservoirs, the Tranco de Beas Dam (on the River Guadalquivir) and the Fuensanta Dam (on the River Segura). Roaming the region's woodlands are valuable wildlife species, such as the ibex, mouflon, red and fallow deer and wild boar,C as well as some of the richest flora in the entire Mediterranean Basin,C with over 1,200 species catalogued to date. With its 214,300 hectares, the Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas Nature Park, is not only the largest of all Spain's parks, but also a Biosphere Reserve and officially designated Bird Haven. The spring water in these mountains is icy cold, with just a hint of pine. Springs, rivulets, brooks and streams are everywhere -in the ravines, on the slopes, along the paths and trails... As often as not there is no discernable track leading to these pools, the sole visitors being the animals of the forest; some waterholes tend to be the haunts of wood pigeons, others of deer or ibex, and some of wild boar. The Cañada de las Fuentes is said to be the source of the River Guadalquivir, immortalised in Machado's lines, "Te vi en Cazorla nacer... Un borbollón de agua clara, debajo de un pino verde..." (I saw you rise in Cazorla... A bubbling of clear water, beneath a verdant pine...) This same terrain was once trodden: by Prehistoric Man, as witnessed 17 by the paintings near the Tíscar Pass; by Iberian tribes, who established settlements like that of Toya in the vicinity of ; and by Romans, who founded the town of Bruñel near Quesada. In its wake, the Reconquest left castles and a string of legends like that: of the Herrerías Bridge, at the entrance to the Park, said to have been erected in a single night to clear the way for Queen Isabel the Catholic and her troops, as they marched on Granada; and that of La Tragantía, a Moorish maiden

who as punishment was transformed into a snake and who The Sierra de Segura, the inhabited park appears on St. John's Eve, "Yo soy la Tragantía/ hija de un rey moro,/ el que me sienta cantar/ no verá la luz del día/ ni la noche de San Juan" (The Tragantía am I/ daughter of a Moorish King/ he By following the water courses in the direction of the Tranco de Beas Dam, who hears my song/ will ne'er again see the light of day / nor the one gets to the Sierra de Segura Range, embracing a total of 12 towns. night of St. John); or that of hidden treasure, left by the Moors and Unlike the Cazorla area, all but three of these lie within the park limits. guarded by lovely young girls who appear only to the chosen few. The first, perched above the Tranco, is , with look-out After the Moors were vanquished, these lands were formally and vantage points at every step. The ancient Moorish walls almost delivered into the stewardship of the Military Order of Santiago entirely encircle a town topped by a castle that still retains its keep. (St. James) and were exploited as common property until the 18th Hornos is also famous for its mistela (a drink made of grape juice century, when the area finally passed into the hands of the Ministry and alcohol) and sausage meats. of Inland Revenue. In the 19th century, all woodlands and forests The road now leads on to . The town rises became state property. Thanks to the fertility of its pastures, these above olive groves and has always been considered impregnable. upland tracts have been one of 's most important animal Settled by Phoenicians, Greeks and Romans alike, it was given a husbandry and ranching areas since time immemorial. series of names that made reference to its height, e.g., Tavara (high Here too are some of the most picturesque towns and villages place), Orospeda (accessible only on foot) or Castrum Alto. The in the whole of Andalusia, such as Cazorla, , Hornos or Moors called it Schakura, the origin of its present name of Segura. Segura de la Sierra. Owing to infighting among the Almohad factions, the town was seized by the Christians, who then set about extending and enlarging it. Dating from this period are the seigneurial mansions, such as that belonging to G Cazorla. Tranco de Beas Dam the poet, Jorge Manrique (whose father was a Comendador of Segura, the equivalent of a Knight Commander). The 16th and 17th centuries brought a time of splendour and, with it, the kind of civic architecture exemplified by the Imperial Fountain (bearing the coat of arms of the Emperor Charles V), the Casa Consistorial (Town Hall) and the regal houses that, for the most part, line Calle de los Caballeros Santiaguistas. 19 Despite the havoc wrought by the Napoleonic Wars, Segura has been declared an Historic-Artistic Ensemble. En route to Castile and silhouetted against scenic backdrops are the remaining towns and villages that lie within the confines of the Park , Génave, Puente de Génave, , Torres de Albánchez, Siles and, edging deeper into this mountain wilderness, Santiago-Pontones.

From Cazorla to Quesada Cazorla, which it "dominates" from the Virgen de la Cabeza Mirador (mirador; look-out point). From here it is only seven kilometres to the Park. Cazorla has always been the natural gateway into the Nature Park. Quesada, another point of entry into the Park, lies ensconced History shows that this same site, originally called Carcesa, has been on the western slopes of the Sierra de Cazorla Range. At one time inhabited since ancient times, but true splendour only came with the or another, all the different civilisations have passed through these advent of the Moors, from whom the present town has inherited the parts and left their mark. Presiding over the city is the Magdalena Arabic feel that pervades its streets and alleys. With its characteristic hill where remains of the El Argar culture have been unearthed. stone houses, steep narrow lanes (best not attempted by car) and Other finds include Roman ruins and mosaics in nearby Bruñel, the flowered balconies, the town has basic ground plan of a late 4th- officially been declared an Historic- century Paleochristian Basilica - Artistic Ensemble. the largest and most complete in To get some of the best views, Spain- and a Visigothic funerary make for the small square known stone. Dating from the Moorish as the Plaza del Pintor Zabaleta. period are the Majuela Castle Cazorla boasts two castles, the ruins, the walls of Tíscar Castle Yedra (Ivy) Castle and the Cinco and the lower section of the Esquinas (Five Corners) Castle, the Quesada town wall. The town one Moorish, the other medieval, was intially reconquered and as might logically be expected taken from the Moors by from an enclave that was an Archbishop Rodrigo Ximénez de important stronghold during the Rada of Toledo in 1232, only to unsettled years of the be recaptured by the Moors Reconquest. Cazorla's Christians before eventually falling to the victors were subsequently to fill crown of Castile in 1309 during the town with convents and the reign of Ferdinand IV. churches, outstanding among The gate leading into the which are the impressive ruins of walled section, featuring a the Church of Santa María. Roman funerary stone embedded Nine towns (all lying along the in one of its jambs, dates from outer fringe of the Park boundary) the 14th century. Local sights make up the Sierra de Cazorla include noble houses district: Cazorla, Chilluévar, 20 emblasoned with coats of arms 21 , , La Iruela, Peal and the Zabaleta Gallery de Becerro, Pozo Alcón, Quesada displaying works by the artist. and Santo Tomé. At a distance of 14 kilometres In the environs of Cazorla, from Quesada -by now inside the scarcely two kilometres away, is G Cazorla. Cazorla, Segura Park limits- is the Tíscar Santuario (santuario; shrine), situated at the La Iruela, consisting basically of and Las Villas Nature foot of the Peña Negra crag and above the grotto called the Cueva La Corredera, a solitary yet Park del Agua. Once an important Moorish bastion, the shrine is now extremely long street flanked by dedicated to the worship of the Virgin of Tíscar, the town's patron small gardens, whitewashed stone houses, and terraces that bloom saint, with devotees flocking in from all parts of the district, as well as in a riot of colour in the springtime. The Church of Santo Domingo the Provinces of Granada and Almería. Adjacent to the shrine is a de Silos (St. Dominic's) -said to be the work of Vandelvira- stands medieval castle, with its keep and part of the Moorish fort still intact. midway along on this street as it climbs steeply to the castle and In 1984, the first rock paintings were discovered, not far off, at a site the modern auditorium which has been constructed in the ruins to known as the Cueva del Encajero. A further set came to light in 1990, serve as a concert venue. There is a long history of rivalry and confrontation between La Iruela and the neighbouring town of this time in the Barranco de la Tinaja ravine (with zoomorphic figures).

Las cuatro villas (The four towns) Virgin harks back to the time of Moorish rule, when Alimenón, a Moorish King of , martyred his wife for having converted to Christianity, and the Virgin came to her salvation and It is in the Sierra de las Villas Range that the River Guadalquivir is joined cured her. A hermitage chapel was built on the spot where the by a tributary, the Corencia, and leaves the Park. Of the three mountain miracle took place. In time this became an important shrine, ranges that go to form the Park, this is the smallest, least populated housing the sacred image said to have been brought here by and least known. The four villas (towns) that give their name to the San Isicio, Bishop of Cazorla. The Virgins of Fuensanta and Tíscar, range –Iznatoraf, , Sorihuela de Guadalimar and Villanueva are the most venerated saints of the Sierra de Cazorla region, a del Arzobispo– all lie outside the Park. While the oldest of the four, fact eloquently reflected in the old couplet: "Virgen de Fuensanta/ Iznatoraf, was already known to Julius Caesar, who refers to it in his ¿quién es tu hermana?/ La Virgen de Tíscar/ que está en Quesada" writings as "Promontorius", it nevertheless saw its heyday under the (Virgin of Fuensanta/ who is your sister?/ The Virgin of Tíscar/ that Moors, when the town limits extended as far as the Guadalquivir. is in Quesada). At that time, it enjoyed a reputation as impregnable, and was called The present-day served as a place of Hizna-Toraf, a reference to its elevated position atop a high rise. recreation for the Moorish Iznatoraf, and the Parish Church of San Ferdinand el Santo took the town in 1226. Decline set in as from 1492, Andrés (St. Andrew's) is built on the site of an erstwhile fortress. the year when it ceased to be a frontier post. Five town gates and a For a time, St. John of the Cross lived in the nearby locality of El truncated tower are all that remain of its once imposing walled quarter. Calvario, and in 1592 Miguel de Cervantes is recorded as having One of the houses in Iznatoraf is known as the Casa de San Fernando been in these parts collecting taxes. (St. Ferdinand's House) because the king is said to have lodged there The remaining towns are: Sorihuela, on which Philip II conferred during his stay. High on its hilltop perch, the town is a sentinel point the title of villa (similar to the concept of a royal borough) in 1565, overlooking the Guadalquivir and Guadalimar river valleys. with a castle in good state of preservation; and Villacarrillo which, Only 7 kilometres separates Iznatoraf from Villanueva del under its earlier name of Mingo Priego, acted as bulwark and Arzobispo (formerly called La Moraleja), site of the Shrine of the atalaya (watch tower or sentinel point). Its Church of Nuestra Virgin of Fuensanta, patron saint of the district of Las Villas and Señora de la Asunción (Our Lady of the Assumption), built by Reina del Olivar, and another of the Park Gates. Devotion to this Vandelvira, is classed as a National Monument .

G Tíscar. Castle

Park tours 2. Game park (22 kilometres).On foot, by bike or car.

The Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas Nature Park can be toured on The tour begins at the Torre del Vinagre (at the 17-kilometre mark foot, horseback, by bicycle or car. Among the many possible routes on the Cazorla-Tranco road). Proceed to the Collado del Almendral and intineraries, the following deserve special mention: Game Park (at the 28-kilometre mark). Here, walk up to the Castillo and Ánimas look-out points. Luck permitting, and never on the weekend when there are far too many visitors, ibex and deer can be spotted as they come down to the water's edge at the day's Hornos-Segura end. Nearby is the Mirador de Rodríguez de la Fuente (a look- Mirador de out point named after the late Rodríguez Rodríguez de la Fuente, a de la Fuente Isla Cabeza de la Viña naturalist well known for his Mirador de las Ánimas y television wildlife series), an del Castillo excellent spot from which to Parque Isla de see the deer on Bujaraiza Island. Cinegético Bujaraiza “Collado del Almendral”

EMBALSE DEL 1. Cerrada de Elias Canyon (10 kilometres). On foot. TRANCO

This, without doubt, is the most scenically stunning of all the Park inagre • Cazorla • inagre tours. Standing at the 17-kilometre mark on the Cazorla-Tranco Dam Río Aguamula

road is the Torre del Vinagre (Vinegar Tower), home to the Centro de

orre del V del orre T Río Guadalquivir Interpretación de Naturaleza (Centre for Nature Study and Woodlore). G Ibex Swing down the road that branches off to the right, go as far as the 24 trout farm and leave the car here. Follow the 10-kilometre trail that hugs the course of the River Borosa. The so-called Cerrada de Elias lies roughly halfway along, and is a narrow canyon that cleaves through the middle of a forest of holm oak. Farther on, after passing a power station, one gets to a spectacular waterfall, the

ranco Piscifactoría Salto de los Órganos, and to a T number of tunnels leading to the Torre del source of the Borosa and Vinagre Puente de los Caracolillos Valdeazores Lake (laguna). Río Borosa CERRADA Río DE ELIAS Central eléctrica Guadalquivir Laguna de Aguas Negras Nacimiento del Río Borosa Laguna de Valdeazores

Cazorla

3. Source of the river Guadalquivir (20 kilometres). By car or on foot.

The Herrerías Bridge marks the start of the approach to the source of the River Guadalquivir. Here, depending on one's preferences, one can either leave the car and walk, or continue motoring. Keeping parallel to the river, the road climbs to the abandoned gardens of the Cortijo de Calerón Estate. After going through a short tunnel and then crossing the Arroyo de los Cierzos (arroyo; stream or small river), one soon gets to the Los Rasos Camp Site where there is a Forest Warden's Hut and, beyond that, a fountain. Carry on for one kilometre to the bridge and cross the river. The road now leads to another bridge, but before crossing it, turn down a track to the left which eventually reaches the source (nacimiento) of the River Guadalquivir.

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4. Cerrada del Utrero (2 kilómetres). On foot. 6. Route of the castles (12 kilómetres). On foot.

Drive to the point known as the Cruce de Vadillo Leaving Cazorla behind, a distance of barely two kilometres will (near the Herrerías Bridge). Park the car here and bring one to La Iruela, its Templar Castle sitting high astride a walk on until a small bridge comes into sight. Just limestone outcrop and commanding a splendid panoramic view.

before getting to the bridge, take the path leading Guadalquivir Río Continue along the path to the Shrine of the Virgen de la Cabeza, off to the left. This follows the river and CERRADA from which villages can be spied far below. Thereafter, descend via eventually emerges in an impressive canyon, the DEL UTRERO the Camino de la Virgen (Virgin's Way) as it Cerrada del Utrero, which is closed off at one heads in the direction of the Chorro Linarejos Castillo end by a dam. There is a set of stairs After passing through the Riogazas La Iruela Templario leading down from the dam wall. At the Vadillo checkpoint, go up the right-hand bottom, a series of waterfalls comes into view, trail that climbs towards Cinco the most beautiful being the Chorreadero Esquinas Castle. Then lose height Cazorla de Linarejos. al Nacimiento again to join the path leading to del Guadalquivir the entrance to Cazorla and Ermita de Yedra Castle, the third and last la Virgen de la of the castles on this route. Castillo Cabeza 5. Peinero cave (66 kilómetres). de la Yedra By car (preferably four-wheel drive). Castillo de las Starting from the point where the Tranco Dam ends, drive five Cinco Esquinas kilometres and take the turning to the left (for anyone wanting to swim, there is a bathing hole within walking

distance, the Charco de la Pringue). One kilometre Hornos beyond the Los Cerezos leisure and recreation area (that includes a camp site for youngsters) there is a look-out point from which vultures can be seen as Control de Riogazas they hover and swoop at sundown. Cross over Tranco the Collado de los Perros Pass (collado; col Embalse G Griffon Vulture or low pass) and then make your del Tranco Charco de way down to the Raso de la la Pr vir ingue 28 Honguera (a stream which alqui Guad Cazorla flows into the River Río Cerezos Aguascebas Grande) and to the Los Cueva del Peinero Peinero Cave, which lies Mirador Río approximately midway along the Agu asce route. From here the road traverses bas G rande the Gil Cobos and Pocico Passes

to arrive at the Fresnedilla forest a hut. Three kilometres farther on yo de Raso Arro de la Hoguer Embalse de lies the Aguascebas Dam (near Aguascebas the track leading to Chorro Gil, with its spectacular waterfall). Exit the Park checkpoint and Mogón

head for Mogón. Chilluevas Cazorla

Useful addresses

Accommodation Apart from the two Tourist Paradors, the Condestable Dávalos Parador in Úbeda, and El Adelantado Parador in the Sierra de Cazorla Nature Park, the best places to stay are Baeza, Cazorla and Úbeda -with ten hotels each- and La Iruela and Villanueva del Arzobispo, with five. In addition to the Cazorla Villa Turistica, within the Park limits there are serviced holiday flats, lodging houses (hostales), hotels, tourist complexes and country-type accommodation, including 17 cortijadas (Andalusian farmhouse and outbuildings, usually set around an inner courtyard) and 5 camping sites.

G Baeza

G Cazorla Parador Local cuisine In general, tends to play a major role in Jaén cooking. Typical dishes in the locality, the so-called cocina serrana are rich in calories and include items such as: lomo de orza (the orza being a glazed ceramic container used to preserve pork in olive oil; carne de monte (game), espinacas jienenses (spinach Jaén style), pipirrana (a fresh tomato relish, midway between a gazpacho and a salad), gazpachos (varieties of cold soup containing chopped tomatoes, 30 cucumbers and green peppers, mixed with olive oil, vinegar and 31 garlic), revueltos de espárragos trigueros or setas (scrambled eggs with tender asparagus shoots or wild mushrooms), ajo blanco (a cold soup made with almonds, garlic, vinegar and olive oil), migas (breadcrumbs fried in oil and garlic with diced ham, bacon and sausage), potajes de verdura (vegetable potage) and cazuelas de caza menor (game casseroles). As for fish, cod (bacalao) figures prominently, especially when cooked Baeza- style in andrajos (literally "tatters", a dish made with squares of pasta) and ajoharina (potatoes stewed in garlic sauce). Prominent among the wines are those from Torreperogil and Úbeda, to say nothing of the famed Hornos mistela.

G Olive oil

Festivals & Folklore Places of scenic and cultural interest

Baeza St. Isidore's Day. 15th May. Baeza Segura de la Sierra Easter Week. Declared of Fiesta in honour of the town's Hacienda La Laguna country Source of the River Segura with National Tourist Interest. patron saint, the Virgen de la estate: tourist complex, with leisure and recreation area, and Day of the Cross Misericordia. On or around 8th leisure and recreation area, and the River Madera (renowned (Día de la Cruz). September. olive oil museum (9 km.). for its trout). A moveable feast day. Laguna Grande scenic area Torreperogil Corpus Christi. A moveable Úbeda (10 km.). Iberian settlement of Cañada Real El paso with feast day. Bonfire festivities in honour of Gil de Olid (9 km.). leisure and recreation area Fiesta in honour of the city's St. Anthony (hogueras de San Canena (2 km.). Puente de la Cerrada patron saint, the Virgen del Antón). 16th January. Roman aqueduct (1 km.). scenic area (13 km.). Alcázar. Candelaria. 2nd February. 12th-15th August. Easter Week, declared of Giribaile Dam (5 km.). Cycle path along the Romería (pilgrimage outing) in National Tourist Interest. Cazorla abandoned Baeza-Utiel railway honour of Santísimo Cristo de Pilgrimage outing in honour of The peak of Peña de Los line (3 km.). la Yedra and Santa Virgen the Virgen de Guadalupe. May. Halcones (above the town): Úbeda del Rosel. Pilgrimage outing in honour of mountain vantage point from Alto (Upper) Guadalquivir 7th September. St. Isidore. May. which to watch the Griffon scenic area (14 km.). Canena St. Isidore's Day. May. Vulture (Gyps Fulvus) in flight. Renaissance Ariza Bridge St. Mark's Day (San Marcos). International Music and Dance Park Gate (9 km.). (15 km.). Roman archaeological Festival. May-June. 25th April. Hornos de Segura site of Úbeda La Vieja (15 km.). Corpus Christi. A moveable Corpus Christi. A moveable Bujaraiza (26 km.), with ruined Úbeda dolmen (3.5 km.). feast day. feast day. Moorish castle and the Rodríguez Villacarrillo Fair and fiesta to honour the Fiesta in honour of the town's de la Fuente look-out point. Guadalquivir riverside (8 km.). city's patron saint, St. Michael patron saint, the Virgen de los La Osera with colony of Griffon Remedios. Mid-August. (San Miguel). La Iruela Fuente de las Zarzas (12 km.) Vultures (16 km.). Iznatoraf 28th September-4th October. St. Isidore's Day (San Isidro). and Mirador del Valle look-out Villanueva del Arzobispo Villacarrillo point (13 km.). River Guadalimar (6 km.). 15th May. St. Isidore's Day. 15th May. Fiesta in honour of the town's St. Rita's Day. 22nd May. Orcera patron saint, the Cristo de la Moorish ruins and Fuente de 32 Fiesta in honour of the town's 33 Veracruz (Christ of the True Cross). patron saint, Cristo de la los Chorros. 3rd-7th September. Veracruz. 15th September. Sabiote Sabiote Day of Our Lady of the Rosary Fuente de la Corregidora Fiesta in honour of the town's (Nuestra Señora del Rosario). waterfall (1 km.) and caves. patron saint, Santa María de la 7th October. Guadalimar riverside (10 km.). Estrella. May. Olvera Dam (10 km.) St. Isidore's Day. 15th May. Villanueva del Arzobispo G Hornos de Segura St. Rita's Day. 22nd May. Day of Cristo de la Veracruz. Fiesta in honour of the town's 3rd May. patron saint, San Ginés de la St. Isidore's Day. 15th May. Jara. 22nd-26th August. Corpus Christi. A moveable Torreperogil feast day. Pilgrimage outing in honour of Fiesta to honour the town's the Apostle St. James patron saint, the Virgen de la (Santiago Apóstol). Fuensanta. 8th September. Corpus Christi. A moveable Pilgrimage outing in honour of feast day. St. Michael. 29th September.

Useful Addresses

International Dialling Code % 34 Tourist Information TURESPAÑA www.spain.info

Turismo Andaluz. Compañia, 40. 29008 Málaga % 901 200 020 ) 951 299 300 www.andalucia.org Tourist Board (Patronato de Turismo) Plaza de San Francisco, 2. Palacio Provincial. 23071 Jaén % 953 248 000 ) 953 248 064 www.promojaen.es

TOURIST INFORMATION Jaén. Maestra, 13 % 953 313 281 Baeza. Plaza del Pópulo % 953 740 444 Cazorla. Paseo del Santo Cristo,17 % 953 710 102 Orcera. Joaquín Paya % 953 480 154 Segura de la Sierra. Paseo Genaro Navarro % 953 480 280 Úbeda. Palacio Marqués de Contadero Baja del Marqués, 4 % 953 750 897 Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas Nature Park Martínez Falero,11. Cazorla % 953 720 125 Green Tourism and Country Cottages % 902 442 233 ) 950 271 678 www.raar.es

PARADORS (State-run hotels) Central booking office. Requena, 3 28013 Madrid % 902 547 979 ) 902 525 432 www.parador.es Parador de Cazorla. Sierra de Cazorla % 953 727 075 ) 953 727 077 Parador de Jaén. Castillo de Santa Catalina % 953 230 000 ) 953 230 930 Parador de Úbeda. Plaza de Vázquez Molina % 953 750 345 ) 953 751 259 35

TRANSPORT RENFE (Spanish Rail) % 902 240 202 International information % 902 243 402 www.renfe.es Bus stations. Úbeda % 953 752 157. Baeza % 953 740 468 Highway Information % 900 123 505 www.dgt.es

USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS Emergencies % 112 Medical Emergencies % 061 Civil Guard % 062 National Police % 091 Municipal Police % 092 Citizen Information % 010 Post Office % 902 197 197 www.correos.es

SPANISH TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES ABROAD EMBASSIES IN MADRID

CANADA. Toronto Canada. Núñez de Balboa, 35. 3º Tourist Office of Spain % 914 233 250 ) 914 233 251 2 Bloor Street West Suite 3402. Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2 Great Britain. Fernando El Santo, 16 % (1416) 961 31 31 ) (1416) 961 19 92 % 913 190 200 ) 913 081 033 www.tourspain.toronto.on.ca e-mail: [email protected] Japan. Serrano, 109 % 915 907 600 ) 915 901 321 Russia. Velázquez, 155 % 915 622 264 ) 915 629 712 GREAT BRITAIN. London United States of America. Serrano, 75 Spanish Tourist Office % ) 22-23 Manchester Square. London W1M 5AP 915 872 200 915 872 303 % (44207) 486 80 77 ) (44207) 486 80 34 www.tourspain.co.uk e-mail: [email protected] G Úbeda. Plaza del Ayuntamiento (City Hall Square) JAPAN. Tokyo Tourist Office of Spain Daini Toranomon Denki. Bldg.4F. 3-1-10 Toranomon. Minato-Ku. TOKYO-105 % (813) 34 32 61 41 ) (813) 34 32 61 44 www.spaintour.com e-mail: [email protected]

RUSSIA. Moscow Spanish Tourist Office Tverskaya – 16/2 Business Center "Galeria Aktor", 6th floor Moscow 103009 % (7095) 935 83 97 ) (7095) 935 83 96 www.ru.tourspain.es e-mail: [email protected]

SINGAPORE. Singapore Spanish Tourist Office 541 Orchard Road. Liat Tower # 09-04. 238881 Singapore % (657) 37 30 08 ) (657) 37 31 73 e-mail: [email protected]

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Los Angeles Tourist Office of Spain 36 8383 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 960. Beverly Hills, California 90211 % 1(323) 658 71 88 ) 1(323) 658 10 61 www.okspain.org e-mail: [email protected] Text: César Justel Chicago Translation: Michael D. Benedict Tourist Office of Spain Water Tower Place, suite 915 East. 845 North Michigan Avenue Photographs: Turespaña photographic archives Chicago, Illinois 60 611 Graphic Design: Koldo Fuentes % 1(312) 642 19 92 ) 1(312) 642 98 17 Layout and design: OPCIÓN K. Comunicación Visual, S.L. www.okspain.org e-mail: [email protected] Published by: © Turespaña Miami Secretaría de Estado de Turismo y Comercio Tourist Office of Spain Ministerio de Industria, Turismo y Comercio 1221 Brickell Avenue, Miami, Florida 33131 % 1(305) 358 19 92 ) 1(305) 358 82 23 Printed by: www.okspain.org e-mail: [email protected] New York D.L.: M-XXXXX-XXXX Tourist Office of Spain NIPO: XXX-XX-XXX-X 666 Fifth Avenue 35th floor. New York, New York 10103 % 1(212) 265 88 22 ) 1(212) 265 88 64 Printed in Spain www.okspain.org e-mail: [email protected] 2nd Edition NO EDITADO Actualizado Febrero 2004

VALDEPEÑAS 59 km ALCARAZ 35 km ELCHE DE LA

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4 km Arroyo Santa Elena Muela de 911 Chiclana del Ojanco de Génave 988 El Arguellite Chiclana Orcera Montizón de Segura Fuente Buena Segura de SEGURA

yo. Río CAROLINA Santisteban A la Sierra LA Embalse del Puerto A de Fernandina Río Hornos Río L Castellar Beas Sorihuela R Madera El Porrosillo de Guadalimar de Segura O La Garganta Crontar Navas de Z Hornos Vilches Llano de A Miller San Juan de Segura Río La Mata Villanueva C Embalse Arquillos del Arzobispo "Charco de Marchena de Guadalén Iznatoraf la Pringue" "Zona Recreativa Embalse de Vites Guadalén Los Cerezos" "Mirador de Rodríguez Tranco de Beas Zumeta Río Guadalimar Herrera de la Fuente" Santiago "Mirador de RÍO Huebras Emb. de Vado de la Espada

LINARES 13 km las Ánimas 983 de de las Hoyas "Cueva del alle J A É N Villacarrillo Peinero" y del Castillo" V "Parque Cinegético del 322 Collado del Almendral" Río yo. Mogón A S Sabiote El Cerezo Canena E

A CARA D El Patronato Embalse de Coto-Ríos C Aguascebas V BAILÉN 29 km Ibros Torreperogil Santo Tomé PARQUE NATURAL DE I "Torre del ACA ÚBEDA Vinagre" SIERRAS DE CAZORLA, T

Chilluevar DE LA SEGURA Y LAS VILLAS É BAEZA GUADALQUIVIR Embalse de Embalse de B los Órganos CRUZ 50 km Puente La Cerrada a Tumbal "Cerrada B r 782 de Utrero" la g il a Puebla de 571 r S Río b La Iruela Vadillo-Castril a U la Don Fabrique Embalse de C de Doña Aldonza Peal e a d S rr a e de Becerro Cazorla "Puente Herrerías" r i la Embalse de r Embalse de S l A i Guadinana t ie San Clemente JAÉN 26 km Pedro Martín n S o Nando MARÍA 684 Bruñel R "Nacimiento S 935 San Clemente M del Guadalquivir" l PARQUE NATURAL S i e ie R Guadalemín r SIERRA DE CASTRIL d r t A Jódar ra RÍO s a E a r Bravatas 28 km 3 km d r I C e e R i T o Quesada Río e S Menor S d y Río 762 Rollo a a R REAL rr Dual carriageway ie S E Huéscar National road 650 Embalse de la Bolera I Castril 1058 «A» Road MANCHA Huesa Rey S 1088 «B» Road Bélmez del Larva Almontarás G R A N A D A Local Road Río Galera Campocámara 1222 Railway N Orce Peña Hinojares Parador 1191 Los Laneros Castilléjar Fuente Shrine-Monastery Pozo Alcón Nueva Arroyo Los Carriones Nature reserve Cortes VÉLEZ RUBIO 28 km JAÉN 22 km

Marina 926 Guadiana de Baza Spa del Salar Cortijo Nuevo Ayo. Camp site 959 Carramaiza 0 5 1015 20 Km Cave Alicún Embalse Benamaurel CARTOGRAFÍA: GCAR, S.L. Cardenal Silíceo, 35 de Ortega de Negretín Site of tourist interest Dehesa Tel. 91 4167341 - 28002 MADRID - AÑO 2002 Alamedilla de Guadix Cuevas de Luna [email protected] GUADAHORTUNA 1 km BAZA 19 km BAZA 21 km