PEAK AREA NEWSLETTER

April 2016 [email protected]

The other big news beyond the Rocking Chair meeting is the BMC AGM, which takes Rob Greenwood place over 16–17 April at the Castleton YHA. Aside from the formalities (which are over quite quickly) there’s a vast After Bill Gordon’s superb talk array of activities taking place, including at our January meeting I feel like guided walks, lectures, quizzes and – we have set the bar high for in terms of local importance – the future meetings, at least where erection of the new Stanage Pole by entertainment is concerned. our very own Adam Long. Fortunately for us at our April One final word must go to the meeting we have Claire Carter BMC’s Mend our Mountains and the highly acclaimed film campaign, which began in mid March, Operation Moffat, which has won and is actively trying to raise money awards at Banff, Kendal and beyond. for environmental projects on some In keeping with the feminist theme of Britain's most popular peaks. On a Lynn Robinson will be giving us a local level these efforts focus around round-up from the Women’sThink the footpath erosion on Ringing Roger. Tank, which addresses the issue of For more information read Peter’s gender within BMC membership. Hill Walking Notes (page 12).

Next meeting: Wednesday 13 April, 7.30 p.m. The Maynard, Grindleford, S32 2HE Photo:.

Access News: The earliest known map depiction dates April from 1723. It has been variously known Henry Folkard as Thurstone Pole, Stannage Pole and Standedge Pole.There are various It is a curious fact letters and numbers inscribed in the that important access-related host rock, the earliest now visible being developments tend to occur a TM 1631 though there is historic few days after the deadline for reference to inscriptions no longer newsletter contributions – and visible from 1550 and 1581. this month is no exception. Second, Saturday 23 April is this First, two dates: year’s Spirit of Kinder day: free entry Sunday 17 April – the day after the in the Royal Hotel at Hayfield starting BMC’s AGM – is the day of the erection at 2 p.m.The BMC’s Carey Davies is of the new Stanage Pole, erected, the one of the keynote speakers.There are publicity blurb will say, by the BMC at additionally a number of events in the noon. Adam Long is masterminding the morning around about promoting the event.A well-designed new collar has new Trespass Centre in Hayfield, been cast to accommodate it which besides sundry guided walks – some reflects its original purpose as a National Trust led, some Ramblers led. boundary marker (possibly of the pre- Details appear elsewhere in the Conquest frontier between Mercia and newsletter, and there will be some Northumbria) and maybe a guidepost. flyers about it at the Area Meeting.

2 Peak Area Newsletter April 2016 These days we can tend to take concessionary bridleways, though you access for granted, and in a sense we might well not discern that from an OS have been able to because of the work map.The footpath along the top of of redoubtable pioneers in the 1920s Stanage is a case in point.That means and 1930s in the wake of the theft of rights can be withdrawn if open access the land from the people through the land is closed for any reason, like fire Enclosure Awards of roughly 1810 risk, whilst a PROW can not be closed to 1840. except through a complex legal process. As the old rhyme says (and I may The right to pass and repass (that is have remembered it slightly what defines a PROW) is pretty well incorrectly), inviolate, as is the mantra ‘once a right The law condemns the man and woman of way, always a right of way’. Who stole the goose from off the common On farmland, and indeed elsewhere, But lets the greater villain loose a fair few concessionary ways were Who stole the common from the goose. funded through the High Level Stewardship scheme.This is now Building on the legacy of the 1920s superseded by a new scheme called and 1930s came the establishment of Countryside Stewardship which does National Parks in 1949, very largely not allow funding for concessionary because of the CPRE and Friends of ways – so be prepared for some nasty the Peak here in Sheffield, and ultimately shocks. Also, because of the general the CROW Act of 2000.The mission dearth of funding for the maintenance goes on with, hopefully, the eventual and upkeep of all rights of way, and establishment of the coastal path - and severe reduction in the staff employed why not give England the same access by Highway Authorities and other rights that are enjoyed in Scotland? statutory organisations to do this But one can never be complacent hugely important job, the pressure is about access as there are always those coming more and more on the user who will seek to restrict it either to pay; that’s you and me. directly, or through what I call This pressure will increasingly be felt accessibility; that means getting on to even on CROW land if an activity is not the open access land or along a Public specifically permitted under the Act. Right of Way (PROW).The position is One category, besides those mentioned less complicated for access on foot on above, is activity deemed as commercial CROW land, but if you are a mountain activity. If you pay to go on a guided biker, horse rider, caver, or like flying, walk, that is classed as commercial the position is much more problematic. activity, and, likewise, if you pay for A fair few established paths are in climbing instruction that too is fact concessionary paths or commercial activity. http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak [email protected] 3 One major landowner here in the paths in raising awareness of a looming Peak, and nationwide, the National problem, and the more we can propose Trust, has just issued some Outdoor solutions the less likely it is that Activity Licensing Guidance. One someone else’s solution will be imposed has to have a great deal of sympathy on us.That is why it is a good idea to with the Trust who face huge costs in support the Ours to Care For sticker keeping the landscapes they own for scheme at Stanage and the Peak the nation in good heart and able to Park’s own Access Fund, targeted cope with the wear and tear that amongst other priorities to the Wish results from increasing levels of usage, List for access improvements in the but at the same time it is a matter of Peak to which the Peak Area Meeting concern for the BMC to know just has put forward items for inclusion. what this will mean for our members. You can also help by subscribing to The Peak is reputed to be the second organisations like the NationalTrust, most visited of the 6,500 National Parks the John MuirTrust and, here in the worldwide (the first is Mt Fuji) so we Peak, the Friends of the Peak whose have our fair share of the problem contribution to the wellbeing of the right on our own doorstep. landscape we all cherish has, over the At Head Office the BMC has a years, been immeasurable. meeting in prospect with the National Just one little example of why Trust at national level, whilst here in landowners really do have a problem: the Peak our local Access Team also its getting harder to leave rubbish at have a meeting in prospect – just Dump It sites even if you are not in a after the deadline for newsletter white van – so where does it get left contributions. Both national and local instead? Every time someone dumps 17 BMC reps will report back on this at fridges at Stanage or other debris, one the Area Meeting.The over-riding way or another you and I will end up message, however, is clear, and it’s a paying for the removal at £100 a time. general message not just specific to On the general theme of wear and the National Trust. If a way can be tear in the countryside something else found of charging you for enjoying the that is causing concern is increase in outdoors, its going to happen – or to night time usage across a number put it another way, the expectation of recreation activities.The BMC has will increasingly be that where possible issued some general guidance on this the cost of upkeep and maintenance in response to the growing concern. should be passed to the user. The tenor of the guidance is not ‘don’t The BMC’s Mend Our Mountains do it’, but rather ‘think about how you initiative will help beyond what it do it’, and understand that even if you achieves in respect of a few selected can’t see why it should be an issue for

4 Peak Area Newsletter April 2016 wildlife, local communities, relentless it disturbs nesting birds, or settling wear and tear on the landscape and down for a butty or a chat in the some other people just take on board vicinity of a nest. the fact that when Access Team reps go We promised an update on where all to meetings with landowners, and to the Ours to Care For Stanage sticker open forums, its something that is money has gone. A detailed breakdown increasingly being raised. exists, but in round figures about 500 The ring ouzel season is under way stickers have been sold raising over again.This year there is a concerted £6,000, spent on access works on Long monitoring effort right across the Causeway and the Plantation (£1,200); Sheffield Moors area and beyond, to conservation work including volunteer include Moscar and some other sites. support (£2,500); car park maintenance All the monitors are meeting to agree and signage (£1,500); dry stone wall a standard methodology which should restoration (£200); support for refugee add to the value of what have, on some and asylum seeker groups (£500); sites, been just a series of random Stanage Pole replacement (£500).The observations. Data will also be gathered money has delivered more than its face on predator behaviour and on curlew. value worth because in every case it has Ring ouzel restrictions are not imposed effectively provided matching funding to as a matter of course, but only where supplement other resource and make they are deemed necessary, and for the things possible that otherwise would limited period that is necessary. not be. Bill and Flo Gordon are leading the The next targets for this income will survey on the Stanage area, and Kim be attention to the roadside verges at Leyland on the Burbage area with Adam the Popular End, around the Plantation Long being the principal contact for the car park, in the High Neb parking area BMC. If you see any sightings you think and at the informal lay-bys above could be of interest please don’t Sheepwash Bank. hesitate to contact him or me, On the grouse moors around the ([email protected] or Upper Derwent annual restrictions [email protected]) will be imposed again this year, and because it all helps to build up an signed by the Estates at key entry accurate picture. You can help too if points. PROWs are not affected by such you see others behaving badly by restrictions, nor, by courtesy of the dropping litter (especially non- landowners, are major concessionary biodegradable litter), failing to keep routes. Linear passage by walkers along their dogs on a lead and under close regular paths does not cause much by control, staking out a nest to watch or way of disturbance to ground nesting photograph the birds in such a way that birds.The big, big problem is, as ever, http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak [email protected] 5 with dogs. Other people's dogs being Essentially what has happened is that where they should not be – they are one phase in a massive moorland banned all year round on grouse moors restoration programme for overgrazed – costs you your access. habitat, representing a £4m investment, Any mention of dogs tends to result has been completed. Apart from in a howl of protest, but it is a very real landscape and habitat improvements issue for livestock farmers, perhaps one result will be better water and especially on the moors around Sheffield. carbon retention in restored boggy The current tenant at North Lees has areas.The water retention will in turn lost a number of ewes to dogs, and a prevent downstream flooding, and farmer on the Eastern Moors keep the peat where it belongs. Stakeholder Group had the udder ripped Filtering it out of the water supply off one of her cows by dogs. A recent lower down creates a cost saving for report in a national newspaper United Utilities sufficient to justify their highlighted 116 ewes killed in one night £2m contribution towards the cost of alone near Chichester, and cited 1,085 the initiative. incidents reported last year to the Police, A corollary for mountain walkers killing and injuring an estimated total of is that much of the land, essentially an 18,500 livestock. Assuming the report to upland raised bog, will be wetter, so be accurate this is a matter of fact. plan your route with care. Some On Kinder, Bleaklow and Upper warning notices have been placed at Derwent a massive 50,000 trees have key access points and are particularly been planted over 150 hectares (in pertinent for those of the 6,000 DofE round figures) to restore our native kids who visit the Peak each year who landscape to something approaching make Kinder their destination. what it was like before it was eaten by If you fancy a walk with a difference sheep. There will be a map detailing key in these parts check out the Moors for sites available at the Area Meeting, along the Future Community Science web site with detailed plans for the work on www.moorsforthefuture.org.uk/co some of the sites.The planting has been mmunity-science and carry out a carefully managed with archaeological scientific survey on key indicator sites like charcoal hearths left open. species like bumblebee, curlew, mountain These hearths are interesting because hares or sphagnum by walking a defined they show there must have been trees transect and recording what you see. where their traces remain in the past to have created the charcoal. Additionally, Burbage and Eastern Moors and to the delight of all, 4.8km of old wire Sheffield Moors Partnership fencing has been removed, mostly from Work on the contract to formalise the the Upper Derwent. management of Burbage, Houndkirk

6 Peak Area Newsletter April 2016 and Hathersage Moors by the Eastern into complete disrepair. You can see Moors Partnership is progressing, but at this happening already in some parts of the time of writing is not yet complete. the Peak in other County Council areas. A National Trust team will however be Practically the ROWIP’s value is to progressing work on the approaches to determine priorities for spending the pack horse bridge at Burbage, whilst whatever money is left in the kitty after the bridge itself is also to receive the the cuts.This can matter quite a lot if the attention it needs. general lack of bridleways, or of joined On Eastern Moors the second cull up routes, or of routes with consistent of surplus red deer is now complete surface, or with too many stiles, or with with the herd brought back to its inadequate signage is a problem for you. optimum level of 160–200.This is a There is normally a public consultation contentious exercise, but a necessary about establishing priorities on DCC’s one for the health of the herd which web site when the process begins – or lacks any natural predators, like wolves let me know your priorities so I can feed or lynx, to keep a sustainable balance. them in through a consultative group on A template for a Sheffield Moors which the BMC is represented. Partnership stakeholder group has At Horseshoe the steep bank above been agreed, and the work to get it up the car park hosts a number of loose and running will start in the late Spring boulders, some of which fell into the car or early summer. This will be a strategic park earlier in the year. Luxuriant growth group looking at common landscape of brambles during the summer is pretty issues across the Golden Frame and will good at catching a lot of what comes not get involved in the sort of detail down, and some work is in hand to get current site based forums address. the worst of what is lying on the slope Work with County trundled.This will reduce the risk of any Council (DCC) on their Rights of Way damage to parked vehicles, but Improvement Plan (ROWIP) is remember parking is at your own risk. about to kick off. This is an important There is loose rock around at Aldery document both politically and practically. too – nothing new there then. As the DCC is the major Highways Authority in newsletter goes to press recent reports the National Park (the National Park of a large flake on BrokenToe getting Authority is not the Highways Authority looser are being checked out. for the National Park), but Finally, an issue regarding Anston highways and their Countryside Service Stones has cropped up which Rob are having to bear the full force of really Dyer is investigating. We have also had severe cuts. Unless the case is made for to agree a peregrine restriction at retaining at least some funding, and some Tissington Spires: there has not been staff, the rights of way network will fall one there before. http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak [email protected] 7 Stonnis more about Black Rocks; its historic Mike Pollitt foundations, revered testpieces and especially the mentalVSs in-between. I loved Black Rocks as a kid. I also learnt the value of being taken I could squirm into its gullies down a peg or two and the perverse and scramble across the pinkish pleasure of its idiosyncracies. At most graffitied top, the edge-warnings other grit crags you know where you of my concerned parents only stand – a line of rock faces in one adding to the excitement. As a direction, kindly walkers traverse the Scout I scraped my knees and top, if it hasn’t been raining you can get trainers against it, eagerly on most stuff and there’ll have to be a following the impatient top rope. decent hold up there somewhere if it’s When I first refound climbing that grade. Black Rocks turns every one years later the image of Seb on of these conventions on its head, with Meshuga finalised my choice an added inscrutably spooky feeling. of cliffs over mountains – I loved it all and wanted to climb there breathtakingly inadvisable heroics all the time. in a beautiful, yet familiar place. Most people didn’t and when I I owned a pair of jeans and knew visited in April 2014 it was for the exactly where Black Rocks was – first time in years. I sat alone watching the same could not be said for the red-lit west wall and thought salopettes and Zermatt. about the nature of my past few As climbing took over my life, I learnt hours climbing, the awe in the voices

8 Peak Area Newsletter April 2016 Photo: BirchTreeVariant. of foreign climbers when I’d told them I loved the footage we shot but I didn’t that this was my local crag and the faces expect festival judges to enthuse about people at the climbing wall pulled when the 'great characters I’d found', this place was mentioned. It became strangers to want to shake my hand clear just how good a film someone after screenings or my heroes to give with talent and experience could make it such glowing reports online, in print about Black Rocks. and in person. I just wanted to share They probably weren’t going to how my local crag made me feel. bother so I thought I’d have a go myself. Stonnis, the mighty and infamous The ideas were in my head almost Black Rocks, , has given me so quicker than I could think them – much. If you haven’t spent a late-spring classical music and historical quotes to evening absorbed in the pleasures of create an appropriate feeling of this absurd and special place I implore grandeur, unjustly neglected mid-grade you to do so. Or at least watch my film. routes shot the way famous last great problems normally are and people http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/videos/stonnis/ trying as hard as they possibly could on routes they expected to cruise. I couldn’t have predicted the next 14 months as my little project got bigger and bigger. Not knowing the people who are in proper climbing films, I just asked my mates if they fancied it. http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak [email protected] 9 What type of climber are you? That depends on where I am and what time of year it is. When at home mostly a boulderer, but I love route climbing of most varieties and do a fair bit in the warmer months.

Who do you climb with currently? Midweek developing forays are often solo missions, or with Ned Feehally. Lots of other Sheffield heads on an infrequent basis. My wife, but not so much since she discovered fell running.

Describe what you did when you Photo: Seal Stones. last went out? The forecast and webcams were showing drizzle across Activist Profile: much of the Peak but a chance of Jon Fullwood dryness in the west, so I went to have a look at some lines I’d spotted a while Age? 42. back at Hen Cloud. It was midweek and I wanted some solitude so I didn’t check Where do you live? Totley, Sheffield. if anyone else was free. After driving through filthy weather all the way to the Occupation? Rope Access Operations Winking Man it was great to pop out of Manager. the ming just in time for the crags. Hen Cloud was in good nick and fortunately Where did you grow up? the peregrines hadn’t arrived yet. I had a Alfreton, Derbyshire (grim ex-mining great day cleaning and climbing four new town eight miles east of Matlock). boulder problems around the 6C/7A mark. Had the crag to myself, though I When and how did you start seemed to be constantly under climbing? My dad was a climber but for surveillance from a stream of folk with whatever reason didn’t see fit to take me binoculars turning up at the gate. and my brother out climbing till I was fifteen. We used to go out with the local Who were your early influences? club mostly. Lots of midgy evenings doing I watched Stone Monkey videoed off the VS on the grit, or Wildcat and the odd telly many many times, so Dawes weekend away in Wales or the Lakes. obviously. I read and reread my dad’s old

10 Peak Area Newsletter April 2016 climbing mags, so Fawcett, Allen, Livesey, almost parental bond with them. etc. Later I started climbing a lot with I have a special fondness for south Peak Andy Crome and his outlook was a big lime and grit, possibly because I started influence. climbing on these crags: Cratcliffe, Black Rocks, Eastwood, High Tor,Thor’s Cave, What is your hardest route and Beeston… The high moorland grit crags boulder problem and how are also up there: Howshaw, Upper Edale important are grades to you? Rocks, Grinah, Barrow… My favourite Hardest route, not sure, one of the few non-climbing area is the reef knolls 8bs I’ve done, possibly my new route around Earl Sterndale and Hollinsclough: Giant Haystacks down Blackwell Dale – Parkhouse, Chrome, Swallow Tor. that took a lot of effort. Hardest problem, probably my new problem in What are your best new routes Sydney, Sheffield Steal (8A). It’s nice to and/or problems in the Peak climb biggish numbers, I’d like to climb District? Routes: Escape toValhalla, bigger but I’ve never had the patience Thor’s Cave;The GreatTribulation, Hipley for sieging. I figured out a long time ago Hill; and Lip of Fools, Eastwood Rocks. I stood a better chance of feeding my Problems: Low Rider, Stanage; Panopticon, ego by climbing new things. I’m a much Howshaw; The Golden Egg, Clifftop better finder than I am a climber. Boulder; and Burning Lark Sunset, Hepstow Brow. Low Rider finding its way What were your first new routes/ on to the cover of theVP bouldering boulder problems in the Peak? guide was a proud moment. I think my first new route would have been ‘Ere Come Fudgie at Wyming Brook, What type of climbing do you it’s all been downhill since then.The first enjoy most and why? Massively long new problem would be Ten Inch Zombies steep stamina pitches on tufas and well- at Eastwood, but I didn’t start actively protected long sea cliff routes. I’m quite looking round for new stuff until the a slow climber with a good eye for trick foot and mouth crisis when I did a ways of doing moves and devious rests collection at Wharncliffe. (good at finding you see) so I get on well with this sort of climbing. Sadly the Peak What are your favourite routes and has neither so I go bouldering mostly. crags and places in the Peak? Other than that I like climbing with My favourite routes are mostly my own some exploratory value, and prows, if I’m honest.They aren’t the best in the everyone loves prows, they’re like The Peak but the whole process of finding, Eagles of climbing genres. cleaning, climbing, naming and sharing means I have the best memories and an Grit or lime? Grit. http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak [email protected] 11 stone-stepped way. Some object to such Hill Walking Notes paving as unsightly and inappropriate in Peter Judd semi-wild places. But done well, I would argue, it is far better than to just allow Most hill users will easily be able to the damage to continue to spread. bring to mind familiar sections of Indeed, done properly, such paved paths footpath that have suffered damage can allow natural ground cover to and, as the base of the path has reclaim much of the damaged area whilst broken up making the ground walkers pass safely by using the much harder to traverse, become ever narrower paved way. With good stone spreading unsightly scars on much choice this replacement path can be far loved hills. less visible from afar and allow many The initial cause is simply the large years of passage without deterioration. numbers of feet passing over the same But who pays? In these financially ground, then rain, frost and other challenging times we can no longer weather related erosion processes join expect the Peak District National Park in. The consequence is not only unsightly Authority to carry out such work, it scarring, visible from some distance, but simply does not have the funds to do also a loss of foliage and ground cover as much at all. Isn’t it right and proper that the path spreads and more people we, the hill users, make some attempt to bypass the difficult ground contribution? This is where the BMC’s underfoot. new experiment with crowdfunding, the There are alternatives of course: Mend Our Mountains campaign choosing hills that fewer people visit, comes in. It’s a chance for all hill users making route choices that avoid well to give something back. The BMC Hill used paths or even eschewing paths all Walking Working Group is fully together and so on. However it is supportive of the campaign. National unrealistic, perhaps even undesirable, to Park Authorities were asked to suggest expect everyone to do this and few of us suitable projects and our own authority’s are going to do all these things all of the proposal to repair part of the Ringing time. Inevitably most, if not all, hill users Roger approach path has been accepted will contribute to such damage at some as part of this campaign. Anyone familiar stage in their walking life. The damage with the last few hundred metres, where can be repaired of course: we could close the ground steepens just below the nose such paths and divert routes elsewhere of rock at the top, will know how bad it and let nature reclaim the damaged path. has become, visible even across the But that is neither desirable, nor valley. A worthy target, I’m sure you will practical. An alternative is to repair the agree. I hope you will give some thought damage and replace that path with a to contributing, in particular contributing

12 Peak Area Newsletter April 2016 of a walk in our beautiful hills so we have organised two walks, one on Saturday afternoon (starting at 1.30 p.m., a walk of around eight miles taking in Cave Dale, and Lose Hill) and the other on Sunday (starting at 9.30 a.m., a walk of around 10 miles taking in Hope Cross, the southern edge of , Ringing Roger and Hollins Cross). Both walks start and finish at Losehill Hall. Any BMC member who would like to join in, whether attending the AGM itself or not, will be very welcome. However, may I ask that all such people sign up Photo: Ringing Roger, Kinder. using the appropriate part of the AGM booking form, so we have a good idea to the Peak District part of the campaign. of numbers: This is the link to use: www.thebmc.co.uk/agm2016 www.crowdfunder.co.uk/mend-the- peak-district/ Short walk before the June Peak The campaign ends on 9 May and, as Area Meeting. with most crowdfunding campaigns, if it Some of you may remember that fellow doesn’t reach its target, no funds will be Area Hill Walking Rep. Cath Lee led a taken at all and so nothing will get done. I short walk before the June Peak Area hope this doesn’t happen. So it is meeting (where it has been traditional important that as many people join in as for attendees to take in a climb or other possible. Please give it some thought and activity beforehand). encourage others to do so too. Oh, and We intend to do something similar there are even some nice rewards for this year too. If you fancy a breath of contributors too! fresh air before the meeting, and the weather is suitable, then we presently BMC AGM walks plan to meet below the south end of Many of you will already know that this The Roaches, at the Roaches Gate, by year’s BMC AGM and annual gathering the car parking lay-by at SK 004 621 will take place at Losehill Hall in ready to set off walking at 6.30 p.m. Castleton on the weekend of the Look out for emails announcing details 16 and 17 April. We wanted to make of this meeting nearer the time to sure that attendees have an opportunity ensure plans have not changed. http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak [email protected] 13 observed to be much improved due to Climbing News & Gossip excess brushing (more care please!). Simon Lee Controversially The Joker was recently done with what appeared to The weather this winter in the Peak be a jump off a boulder at the start. In has not been kind to climbers but response first ascensionist Jerry Moffatt, the dedicated always find a way to replete with shotgun, dogs and flat cap, get out so there is plenty to report was rumoured to have headed out to on in this inaugural round-up. the Plantation to set things right. At the end of the lime season Tom Together with accomplice Ben Moon Randall was rewarded with the second and apprentice Tyler Landman they ascent of Steve McClure’s Cave Linkup were said to have attempted to lever (8A+) at Raven Tor and then delved the offending boulder away but deep into the cave and climbed out into collectively lacked enough leg power. Let’s Get Ready to Rumbleweed. There In contrast Ned Feehally discovered was some debate about the most he had more than enough leg power appropriate name for this extension and to launch up the unclimbed dyno left I think he ended up with Let’s Get Ready of The Joker which went at a modest 7C to Fumble Ben’sWeed (7C+), or at least and was aptly named Full House. I hope so.At the Chee Dale Cornice Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall Haydn Jones found a right-hand finish maintained their dominant place at the to R’n’P to give Body Snatchers (8b+). cutting edge of absurdity by climbing Over on the grit in October Niccolo Master's Edge in Minion suits. While Ceria bagged the coveted second ascent Ron Fawcett’s take on this is unknown of Ben Moon’sVoyager Sit Start (8B+) a more respectful low-key approach at Burbage North which had been was adopted by Nathan Lee and Steve unrepeated for nine years despite Ramsden who both flashed it. gallant attempts by fellow Italian Michele At Bamford Quarry Mark Rankine Caminati. This year Ned Feehally did the excellent looking Boadacious reclaimed some local honour with the Groove (7A) and the arête to its right third ascent. Voyager stand start (8B) Big Excellent Adventure (E5).The wall left also got a slew of repeats this winter, of Kelly'sVariation at High Neb yielded perhaps most notably from visiting up- to a delighted Ellis Ash, to give Dunge and-coming teenager Hamish Potokar. Master (7B), and was quickly repeated Hamish also repeated The Ace (8B) at by Ben Bransby who confirmed the Stanage Plantation as did his equally quality and added a harder sit start. youthful friend James Squire. The Ace is Jon Fullwood can always be relied on the low start to The Joker (8A) and the to add new problems each season.This left hand crimp used on both has been winter he added a good sit start to Moo

14 Peak Area Newsletter April 2016 Cow at Shining Cliff (7B+). At Birchen he gaining neo-classic status.Also close to climbed a 6C low start to Cold Compass repeating it is Emma Flaherty, who spoke and also found Iron Eye (7A+) on the at the BMC Glossop Area meet last year roof to its left which he then did more and has been nominated as vice- directly at 7B and confusingly named it president to replace Mina Leslie- Iron Eyes. A similarly confused James Wujastyk. Given its location it is Jacobs did a sitting direct start to surprising that a problem of such quality Nelson's Slab Direct at 7A thinking he was as BSMA was only recently climbed (in doing Iron Eye. At Burbage North, Dave 2013 by Iain Farrar). As with Full House Parry linked Blind Ali into Blind Fig on it shows that there are quality unclimbed Valentine’s Day to give Love is Blind (8A). problems out there, lurking in full view. At Roche Abbey Ned Feehally and Mark Rankine has taken advantage of Dawid Skoczylas repeated Mike Adam’s a sabbatical from work to grow his hair Serenata (8C). Dawid then went on to long and open a new bouldering sector complete the desperate looking wall left in Priddock Wood below Cutthroat of Hooligan at Raven Tor. Christened West Bridge: 15 problems from 5+ to 7B, the Side it extends his 8B boulder problem best of which looks to be Tarkus (7A+). East Side and is graded a conservative Details on UKBouldering.com 8C. Further downstream Kristian Visiting Canadan supremo Sean Klemmow added Pinch an Inch (7b+) to McColl, fresh from winning the CWIF Lammergeyer Buttress and next to it bouldering competition, ventured straightened out and bolted Final outside with fellow competitor Jorg Apocalypse at 7a+. Nearby Mark 'Zippy' Verhoeven to Black Rocks. Sean, who Pretty addedThe Honeymoon Is Over (7c) had previously failed on Hubble because next to Honeymoon Blues and a variant to he had the wrong brand of kneepad, that route from the second bolt, Decree said he had wanted to do Gaia for 15 Nici (7b+). On the right side of Rubicon years. Reporting on the day Sean Paul Freeman added Point of No Return blogged how stoked he was to flash (6c) and next to it Gary Gibson added Gaia… on top rope… before both he Trunk of Punk (7a) which is a rightwards and Jorg led it. Well done Sean. finish to Last but Not Least. Gary says he On a final sad note, Brian Cropper, is currently completing work on a new who was an active Peak new router in venue which will imminently yield 11 the '70s and '80s, has died.A tribute can new routes. Check his website be found on UKClimbing.com www.sportsclimbs.co.uk for updates. Ella Russell and Jo Allen both did their Get in touch first 8As, Quarantine at Anston Stones Send your Peak area news, gossip or and Back Street Mime Artist at Burbage newsletter article ideas to me at: North respectively. BSMA is rapidly [email protected] http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak [email protected] 15 2016 Peak Area Meetings

13 April, 7.30 p.m. 14 September, 8 p.m. The Maynard, Grindleford The Globe, Glossop

8 June, 8 p.m. 16 November, 7.30 p.m. The Winking Man, Upper Hulme The Maynard, Grindleford

Forthcoming Events BMC Peak Area Contacts http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak Peak Area Chair: Rob Greenwood. BMC AGM 2016 [email protected] The 2016 AGM weekend is taking place atYHA Castleton (Losehill Hall, Hope Secretary: Becky Hammond. Valley, Derbyshire, S33 8WB) from [email protected] Friday night (15 April 2016) through to Sunday (17 April 2016). Peak Area Reps (your voice on the The BMC has booked the entire BMC National Council): venue for the weekend so BMC Rob Greenwood and Dave Brown. members have sole use of all the http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak available facilities. Book your accommodation and food at Access Reps Co-ordinator: www.thebmc.co.uk/agm2016 for Henry Folkard. a weekend full of social get-togethers, [email protected] walking and climbing activities and a few meetings! Peak Area Hill Walking Reps: Peter Judd. Stanage Pole Re-erection [email protected] Sunday 17 April, 12 p.m. Cath Lee. At Stanage Pole, obvs! [email protected]

Spirit of Kinder Day Peak Area Newsletter Editorial: Saturday 23 April, 2 p.m. Simon Lee and John Coefield. Royal Hotel, Hayfield. Free entry. [email protected]

Next meeting: Wednesday 13 April, 7.30 p.m. The Maynard, Grindleford, S32 2HE