Mekong & Mountains

Part II

Mekong & Mountains

Explore Life & Nature in

Northwest Laos

Thematic Interpretation Plan North-South Economic Corridor in Lao PDR Luang Namtha & Bokeo Provinces

GMS-Sustainable Tourism Development Project in Lao PDR Lao National Tourism Administration August 2009

Claire McClintock Heritage Interpretation Specialist P.O. Box 25275, Wellington 6146, New Zealand [email protected] Lao PDR 020 748 9315/NZ 6427 3345 995

2 Table of Contents

1. Intoroduction ...... 4 2. Key sites ...... 4 3. Target audiences ...... 5 4. Interpretative theme – what’s our story? ...... 5 4.1 Telling a Story ...... 5 4.2 Interpretative Goals ...... 6 5. Design of proposed interpretation Materials – telling our story ...... 6 5.1 Interpretative Media ...... 6 5.2 Purpose and Content of Interpretative Media ...... 8 5.3 Signage Hierarchy ...... 9 5.4 Proposed interpretation panels at each Site ...... 11 6. Summary Inventory of cultural, historic & natural assets ...... 13 6.1 Cultural heritage & indigenous knowledge Bokeo & Luang Namtha ...... 13 6.2 Sites and attractions in Bokeo ...... 15 6.3 Luang Namtha Province ...... 17 7. Monitoring & Evaluation ...... 19 8. Action Plan ...... 19

3 1. INTRODUCTION This plan sets out how we can share the stories of the North-South Economic Corridor in Lao PDR in a way that engages visitors, helps them to understand and enjoy their visit more, and makes them want to explore the region for longer. There are a range of natural and cultural sites covered by this plan, with interpretation facilities at sites ranging from a single sign to purpose-built tourist information centers. In addition to onsite information, a variety of other interpretation and promotional material will be developed, each targeting a particular audience or need.

An outline of the sites covered by the plan and brief audience and stakeholder outline is followed by a discussion of the theme that will guide all interpretation. The theme is the story we use to link the different sites into a coherent route for visitors. The ‘nuts and bolts’ of how we actually tell the story is described, followed by a description of the various sites along and around the route. Finally, systems for monitoring and evaluation, and action plans for implementing the project complete the report.

3. KEY SITES Sites and proposed interpretation facilities/media covered by this plan are those that will receive support from the GMS-Sustainable Tourism Development Project in Lao PDR (STDP). They include: 1. Boten Border checkpoint improvements Signage/posters/brochure stand 2. Luang Namtha Night Market Signage 3. Nam Dee village Brochure 4. Vieng Neua village Brochure 5. Nam Ha National Protected Area Visitor and interpretation centre 6. Nam Eng Cave Complex Signage 7. Vat Mahaphot Signage 8. Bor Kung Nature Park Restaurant, ethnic crafts display, walking-trail signage 9. Nam Pae Village Scenic Viewpoint Signage 10. Nam Kan NPA Visitors Centre Visitor and interpretation centre 11. Nam Chang village Brochure 12. Fort Carnot French Army Garrison Signage 13. Houay Xay border checkpoint improvement Signage/posters/brochure stand

Figure 1. Location of STDP proposed intervention sites

4 4. TARGET AUDIENCES The number of tourists visiting Luang Namtha Province has risen from 4,732 in 1995 to over 197,202 in 2008. Bokeo has been keeping records since 2004, and in since then visitation has increased from 79,006 to 145,567 in 2008.

There are two key audiences targeted in this plan. The first is tour groups, largely on tour buses, coming from Thailand and China. This group represents the majority of the tourists that come through the region, but most of these tourists do not presently stop at the sites proposed in this plan. It is possible that with improvements to facilities, they would stop at sites such as Ban Don Chai Market and Visitor Center, Bor Kung Nature area, Nam Ha Visitor Centre and Luang Namtha Town. This group is largely comprised of transit travelers that require a high standard of service and the capacity to handle large groups of 40 or more visitors at any stop.

The second target audience is independent tourists and backpackers, mostly from Europe and North America, but with an increasing number of Asians, that make up about 30% of visitors to the region. While this group is smaller in number, it is the key target market for many of the sites identified. These travelers stay for a few days in the region, are interested in cultural and eco-trekking and don’t like to spend too much money each day. They do stay for longer, which means that overall they spend more than transit visitors. This group also tends to support small to medium-sized Lao owned businesses and have a commitment to supporting community based tourism.

No market research has been done on the domestic market. Anecdotal evidence suggests that domestic tourism is confined to major festivals and visiting friends and relatives.

4. INTERPRETATIVE THEME – WHAT’S OUR STORY? 4.1 Telling a Story A good theme gives people a storyline that they can attach information or relate ideas to. This means that as they travel along the route, they will build on and ponder some key ideas, which is easier and more interesting than collecting a series of facts. It also informs the brand, and gives people promoting the route a framework that they can use to provide further information and develop their own talking points.

Proposed NSEC Theme

Mekong & Mountains

Explore Life & Nature in Northwest Laos Travelers and traders have followed the ancient trade routes that criss-cross mountainous north-western Laos for centuries. A network of caravan trails linked Thailand, Burma, Laos and Southern China where tea, horses, ivory, porcelain, silks, gems and forest products were traded. Today you can safely explore these ancient routes and take in the beautiful scenery that stretches from the Mekong River Valley in Bokeo to the Lao-Chinese border in Luang Namtha. Travel through thickly forested mountains and ethnic villages to discover the living traditions, fine handicrafts and distinctive cuisine of the region.

One sentence

5 Travel windy ancient trade routes from the Mekong through forested mountains and discover unique cultures and breathtaking scenery in Bokeo and Luang Namtha.

4.2 Interpretative Goals The goals of interpretation along the NSEC are to: • diversify tourism products along the NSEC • attract more visitors and expand community based tourism along the NSEC • increase revenue from tourism by encouraging tourists to stay longer • increase visitor awareness, understanding and enjoyment of each site by providing them with the information that will help them engage the site • to provoke visitor interest and encourage them to explore the area further and visit other sites along the NSEC • preserve and protect the environment and cultural heritage • encourage visitors to practice responsible tourism and support ecotourism • reinforce branding, support guiding at sites, and provide a good basis for educational programmes • link to other sustainable tourism initiatives and mobilize resources • help visitors and local people avoid hazards

5. DESIGN OF PROPOSED INTERPRETATION MATERIALS – TELLING OUR STORY

For many visitors to this NSEC, Lao or English will not be their first language, and they may not be familiar with Lao history, culture or its environment. Visitors will probably not stop at every attraction along the route, and research shows that signs with text are not read in full by visitors. To address these issues, the following guidelines are suggested when producing interpretative media for the NSEC:

• text is simple, clear and uses non-technical terms and non-colloquial language to engage the widest possible audiences • keep text panels short (maximum 300 words for a 0.85 x 1.75m panel) • panels should work as stand-alone displays but also harmonized with other panels that tell parts of a wider story • images (maps, photographs, archival images) will be used when possible to stimulate visual interest and illustrate context • panels should complement non-textual interpretation (e.g. objects or sites) • where appropriate, text, or video, should use personal stories for emotional engagement • panels should complement any other interpretation provided at the site (e.g. guided tours) 5.1 Interpretative Media

Interpretative media will take a range of forms to provide various levels of detail to visitors. Suggested media to support interpretation on the NSEC includes:

1. Route brochure 2. Site brochure 3. Way-finding signs 4. Exterior interpretative panels (sites) 5. Internal interpretative panels (visitor centres) 6. Guidebook

6 7. Marketing posters 8. Website

Figure 2. Example of NSEC Interpretative Media

Figure 2. Example of NSEC Way-finding Signage

5.2 Purpose and Content of Interpretative Media

Route brochure – A4 3 fold brochure, color A full color route brochure will be developed and distributed at petrol stations in Thailand and China, and at border checkpoints. At this stage, it is proposed that brochures and signage be in Lao and English, but in future, Thai and Chinese would be priorities for translation, especially for brochures and guidebooks. Content: Map of region and route, outline of theme, and attractions along route, contact numbers/weblinks, logos. Possibly suggestions for side trips or next destination (e.g. Luang Prabang, Muang Sing).

Site brochures – A4 3 fold brochure, color and black and white Panels at sites will be complemented by a black and white or color A4 site brochure to be given free with every ticket or the printed ticket incorporated into brochures. Content: Detailed information about each site, site map if appropriate, route summary, contact numbers/weblinks, logos.

Guidebook - To follow standard LNTA style. A more detailed guidebook will be available for sale. This will contain vivid images and more detailed information about the region’s natural and cultural assets. Some information from panels can be used in the guidebook. It also provides an opportunity to promote messages about responsible tourism, appropriate behavior, and community tourism potential for alleviating poverty. Content: Message from Provincial Tourism Offices, General information: Laos, Bokeo and LNT, Map of region and route, information on the attractions along the trail and suggestions for further exploration, CBT in region, hazards and safety, contact numbers/weblinks, logos

Marketing Posters - A1 and A2 poster size Marketing posters promoting the route will be developed using key images, and distributed to information centers, border checkpoints, restaurants and guesthouses along the route. Consideration should be given to the design of this poster to ensure that it is clear and attractive, as it is likely to be the most visible and durable form of promotion. Content: Route and regional map, attractions marked with brief description, photographs, weblinks, logos. Largely pictorial.

Way-finding signs, Exterior interpretative panels (sites), Internal interpretative panels (visitor centers) On the road by each site, way-finding signs will mark the location. Welcome panels will be at the entrance of each site, setting out a brief summary, with maps and pricing information. This panel will promote the site, and assist the visitor to make the decision to enter the site. Once inside the site, more detailed information panels will be provided at relevant points. For the two visitor centers at Nam Ha and Ban Don Chai, the signage design is essentially the same as the exterior panels at other sites, but the construction material will be different. The types of signs

8 proposed are detailed in Part III: NSEC Design Manual

Website Information about the route will be added to www.ecotourismlaos.com and a dedicated page created this site and the Luang Namtha website. The websites will have information about the route, maps, featured attractions and suggested itineraries. The route brochure should be downloadable, as should detailed information for tour operators. All promotional materials will display appropriate logos and links to relevant websites.

Podcasts with information about each site can be posted on websites that could be downloaded onto mp3 players. Until Laos’ internet bandwidth improves, it is likely that tourists will have to do this before they leave home, unless the podcasts can be made available at tourist information centers. This would be an effective way of sharing up to date information in a variety of languages. Posting video footage of the route on YouTube is another low-cost way of distributing visual media on the route.

Logo Mekong & Mountains

Explore Life & Nature in Northwest Laos

A logo and color palate will be developed by a professional designer to communicate the interpretative theme

* Logos on interpretative media may include: Route logo, ADB logo, Lao: Simply Beautiful logo, LNTA logo, and No Littering icons

5.3 Signage Hierarchy Four levels of signage are proposed. They are as follows:

1) Road signs – to be posted on road – one as advance warning, and the other as a turnoff point marker. To follow standard road sign criteria.

Figure 3. Road Signage

2) On-site directional signage – to let visitors know where to go once they arrive

Figure 4. On-site directional signage

3) Orientation or welcome panel – comprehensive information, map, trail summary, pricing, and logos

Figure 5. Welcome or orientation panel

4) Information panel – detailed information about specific point at the site, with graphics and trail logo

Figure 6. Information panel

5.4 Proposed interpretation panels at each site

Key message Sub messages Panels

Luang Namtha Enjoy local food • Interesting local food 1. LNT night market Night Market and eat with the • Local handicrafts • Handicrafts locals • Shopping • Etiquette • Specialties e.g. bamboo, Khao soi • Basic language Nam Ha NPA Explore rich • Nam Ha NPA is 1. Introduction to Nam Ha Interpretation environmental managed by local NPA + map Center and cultural people for ecotourism 2-5. Key species – diversity in the and natural resources animals, birds, plants: Nam Ha NPA • Local people extinct and endangered welcome you to explore 6-9 Human use of the village life forest – hunting, medicine, • This is a precious building materials esp. resource to be used with bamboo, NTFP, trekking care 10-11. Wildlife trade 12-15. Village life – yearly cycle, architecture, rice Nam Eng Cave Explore an • How caves are made 1. Orientation panel Complex underground • Ecosystems inside 2. Cave formation and river system and outside the caves forest • Safety and the environment Vat Mahaphot Explore the • Ancient cities and 1. Orientation panel ancient city trade routes 2. Ancient city • Preserve cultural 3. History of area heritage Bor Kung Relax and • Pure springs and Bor Kung recreation area Nature Park enjoy the forests 1. Orientation panel beautiful • Trade routes (tea) 2. History of area +tea springs and forest • Ethnic diversity/crafts 3. Natural environment • Shopping and springs Craft center/ restaurant 4. History of area

11 5. Focus on tea 6. Weaving – cotton silk + common products 7. Embroidery 8. Basket making 9. Dying, indigo etc 10. Bamboo

Nam Phae Enjoy the views • Map with orientation 1. Looking out from the Viewpoint from the viewpoint – what you • Golden Triangle highest point on can see, brief history, the road • Slash and Burn Golden Triangle, • Village life slash and burn agriculture Ban Don Chai Gateway to the • Village life and crafts 1. Story of the road and Visitor Centre Nam Khan NPA trade routes • Shopping 2. Local crafts and • Story of the markets road/trade routes 3. Nam Kan NPA • Nam Khan NPA Fort Carnot Explore the old • Struggles for power 1. Orientation panel French French in the region over time 2. History – power Garrison Garrison • Trade routes struggles in region, French colonialism • Life in a strange land 3. Daily life in garrison • Wider French colonialism in Laos 4. Tunnel to watchtower 5. Shooting gallery Border Welcome to • Possible Posters/brochure stands checkpoints at Laos routes/itineraries +maps only Boten and • Dos and Don’ts Houey Xay * Draft content for each of the above panels is included in Part IV of the NSEC Planning Documents

Figures 7 – 8. Visitor Center & Exhibit Concept Drawings

6. SUMMARY INVENTORY OF CULTURAL, HISTORIC & NATURAL ASSETS Places marked with an asterisk ( * ) are within 10km of the NSEC corridor

The major tourism assets of the region are the large protected natural areas and lifestyles of the many ethnic groups living here. The forests support endangered wildlife populations, rich biodiversity and are a source of food, medicine, and housing needs for those who live here. Without healthy forests local people will suffer because of less access to natural resources and income and employment that can be generated from sustainable tourism. Therefore, maintaining and protecting biodiversity in the forests is crucial to maintaining the wellbeing of those who live in the region.

6.1 Cultural heritage & indigenous knowledge - Bokeo & Luang Namtha Rich ethnic diversity means that Bokeo and Luang Namtha have a wealth of traditional crafts and arts. These include: weaving: cotton and silk, dying cloth e.g. Lanten indigo, Lanten mask making, embroidery e.g. Hmong & Yao, silver making e.g. Lanten, Hmong, Akha, blacksmithing, basket making: bamboo and rattan, music e.g. Tai Yuan orchestras, Khmu gong music, Hmong kaen (mouth organ), dance e.g. Tai Lue sword dancing, cuisine e.g. khao soi and liquor e.g. lao lao and lao hai. Village life and skills such as hunting are of interest to visitors, as are traditional lifestyles as practiced by the Akha. Trekking and day tours offer visitors the chance to learn about these skills, and can be a catalyst for preservation of traditional activities.

Festivals There are a number of festivals celebrated in the area. November to February is the time that most ethnic groups celebrate New Year, as it marks a lull in the agricultural cycle.

Month Festivals in Luang Namtha Festivals in Bokeo January Hmong/Khmu New Year Kapok Festival 13-16 Jan Akha, Sida, Lahu, Lanten, Panna, Hmong New Year Tai Neua and Yao New Year

13 Spirit of the New Rice Festival by Khmu and Mon-Khmer speaking ethnic groups

February Boun Maka Bousa, Boun Khao Boun Maka Bousa - Buddhist Chi - Buddhist Festivals Festival That Poum Pouk Festival Kasikhum saosuan Chinese New Year Mien, Lahu, Khmu New Year Pa Wet Festival (moves from temple to temple) March Yao, Lahu, Khmu New Year April Lao New Year; Pii Mai Lao Lao New Year Boun Bang Fai Rocket Festival – Rocket Festival –Houey Xay Namtha Boun Maka Bousa - Buddhist Kao Ban Festival - Akha Festival May Poi “Rocket“ Festival in Muang Boun Visakha Bousa - Buddhist Sing - Tai Lue Festival Boun Visakha Bousa - Buddhist Festival June Feeding the Spirit of the City Pillar -Lao Yuan Vor Salee Festival - Lahu July Boun Khao Pansa - Buddhist Boun Khao Pansa - Buddhist Festival Festival September Swidden Rice Field Festival - Khao Salak Festival Lahu (before the harvest) October Boun Souang Heua Namtha Boat Boun Ork Pansa - Buddhist races Festival Boun Ork Pansa - Buddhist Festival November That Xieng Teung Festival, Muang Sing December Hmong/Khmu New Year; Hmong/Khmu New Year; National Day National Day

The largest local festivals are:

• New Year – most ethnic groups hold new year festivals between November and February. Traditional Lao New Year is in April. • Boun Thai Dam is held every three years in one of Luang Namtha’s 13 Tai Dam villages and all Tai Dam in the province take part. The festival lasts for three days, and includes traditional performances, music and sports competitions amid food and lao lao. The last festival was held in February 2008. • Namtha Boat races are held each October and coincide with the end of Buddhist Lent

14 • Kapok “Dok Ngiew” Festival in Tonphung District Bokeo in January. Beauty contest, market fair, and each ethnic group performs dancing singing etc • Boun That Xieng Teung – held in Muang Sing, and attracts many people from around the province as well as Tai Lue Buddhists from as far away as Myanmar, China and Thailand. • Kasikhum Saosuan is an agricultural fair and harvest festival held at the end of February in Ban Dantin, south of Houay Xay, with competitions for corn, vegetables and whisky • Boun Maka Bousa – is Buddhist Festival; held in Houay Xay town and includes a bonfire at the main temple where local people cook sticky rice on skewers over the bonfire. In morning of the full-moon day, the roasted sticky rice “kao jii” is offered to monks as alms rather than the usual sticky rice.

6.2 Sites and attractions in Bokeo

Souvannahkhomkhan archaeological site Tonpheung district Souvannahkhomkhan archaeological site is about 40 kilometers or an hour north of Houay Xay. It was first established around the 5th century and rebuilt several times. The current ruins date from the 14-16th century Lane Xang era, and has over 40 sites spread over 10,000 hectares, including temples, stupas and a 7 metre high Buddha statue, thought to be the one of the largest in Laos. The large Buddha statue, as well as others at the site, have been looted for treasure concealed inside. Access to the site is difficult, without signage and requires 4WD. The site is included in a tour program that also visits a nearby waterfall and stops for lunch at a Nam Keung noodle village. The noodle village is set up to accommodate tourists and is located around an old airstrip.

Temples in Houay Xay* Ban Houay Xay, Ban Khone Keo Houay Xay has two large temples, Wat Jom Khao Manilat off the main street and Wat Khonekeo Xayaram in Ban Khone Keo. Wat Jom Khao is a busy temple that was built from teak around 1880. It has a stele dating from the mid-fifteenth century. Wat Jom Khao is reported to have been established about 1000 years old. Both overlook the Mekong.

French Army Garrison - Fort Carnot* Ban Houay Xay The French Army garrison, Fort Carnot, was built around 1900 on the hill above Houay Xay overlooking the Mekong. It has two large watchtowers, an amenities block including a kitchen and prison cell, two large garrison buildings, and tunnels leading to external guardhouses. It has been off limits to visitors due to use by the Lao Army, but is now being prepared for visitors as part of this project. It is in disrepair, but is safe for visitors. The site provides a backdrop to tell the story of French colonialism in Laos.

Gold and sapphire mining Ban Nam Khok and Ban Houei Sala Bokeo means ‘gem mine’ and locals pan for gold along the riverbanks of the Mekong. Houay Xay district has small sapphire deposits, and both gold and sapphire mining can be observed in the villages of Ban Nam Khok and Ban Houei Sala. Group tours to experience sapphire mining are planned by the PTD but are currently

15 waiting on government approval. Silver is also mined in these villages which are about 30 km from Houay Xay.

Ban Nam Chang* This Lanten village is set on NSEC about 20 km from Houay Xay. It is well-known as a paper-making and indigo cloth producing village. Tourists do visit Nam Chang but he village currently receives very little benefits from tourism.

Ban Khao Pun Many villagers' occupation is to produce 'kao pun' or 'rice vermicelli'. The ‘kao pun’ that is made in Ban Khao Pun village is exported to Thailand at Chiang Kong. A number of Thai tour operators include a stop here in tour programs.

Ban Yong Hin The Thai Lue people living here build their houses by placing each stake on top of a stone ‘yong hin’. Doing so protects their wooden houses from termites.

Ban Tom Lao The name of the village literally means 'to brew rice alcoholic spirits'. 'Lao tom' - a form of distilled rice spirits - is illegal in many countries but is legal in Laos. Villagers here produce many kind of alcoholic beverages such as ‘Sa To’ and ‘Kasae’.

Markets Houay Xay’s Talat Sao* (morning market) is at the southern end of town and has a good selection of local foods and dry goods for sale.

The Ban Don Chai* market is held once a month from the 18-20th. Locals, as well as traders from Luang Namtha and Houay Xay fill about 60 stalls, selling food and handicrafts.

Monthly markets are also held at Nam Tuen and Nam Pong.

Nam Ngon waterfall, Ban Pana village (north of Houay Xay) is an attractive series of falls about 15 minutes walk from the road. It is possible for tourists to visit by themselves or as part of a tour.

Phou Padeng & Pa Ngoi Cliffs in the same area as Nam Ngon Waterfall are being developed for trekking and camping through tour companies in Houey Xay.

Nam Kan Protected Area The Nam Kan National Protected Area covers 136,000 hectares and was upgraded from a Provincial Protected area in 2008. The Ministry for Agriculture is planning to carry out a survey of animals in the area in partnership with Animo, the Gibbon Experience parent company. The Gibbon Experience offers tree house accommodation and the opportunity to travel through the treetops on cable zip-lines. The standard two-night tour starts in Ban Don Chai on the NSEC. A part of proceeds from the tours go towards employing rangers to prevent poaching and research.

Mekong River* Accessed at Tonpheung, Meung, Houay Xay and Paktha Districts, Bokeo Province The Mekong River runs along the western border of Bokeo Province. It is an important waterway and source of fish and other food for local peole. Chinese cargo and tourist boats come as far south as Chiang Saen on the Thai border. Lao cargo boats and tourist boats mainly carry people and goods between Houey Xay and

16 Luang Prabang. The legendary Paa Beuk or Giant Mekong Catfish is caught at Houay Xay . This is probably the largest freshwater fish in the world and takes between 6-12 years to mature reaching 2-3 metres long and weighs between 200- 300 kilograms. Fish are caught between April and May when they swim upriver to spawn in Lake Tali, Yunnan. The catch has diminished over the years, and it is unclear whether this is due to over fishing or blasting of rapids and subsequent destruction of underwater crevices used for breeding. The Thai Fisheries department has been carrying out a breed and release program with some success, and paa beuk are successfully farmed in central and northern Thailand. Currently the wild catch-quota is two fish per year for Thailand and Laos combined.

Local Products Tea is grown in the province, and wild honey is harvested. There are some well- established noodle villages near Houay Xay (e.g. Ban Nam Kok and Ban Nam Kheung) that are easily accessible and a pleasant trip. Bokeo Social Enterprise is developing a number of high quality products, including organic sugar, herbal tinctures, cosmetics and ginger candy. The company plans to sell these to the European market and is also considering supplying suitable local retail shops.

6..3 Luang Namtha Province There are a number of interesting sites in and around Muang Sing and other districts in Luang Namtha that are not included in this plan as they are outside the geographical scope of the project. A good of Luang Namtha’s tourism assets can be found in the IMPACT: Luang Namtha book published by UNESCO. This book may be downloaded free the www.unescobkk.org website and is available in hard copy from the Luang Namtha PTD.

Vat Phoum Pouk* Ban Nam Chang, Luang Namtha District Vat Poum Pouk is Luang Namtha District’s oldest Buddhist structure, constructed in 1628 as a sign of friendship between residents of Muang Houa Tha and Chiang Saen (on the Thai border.) The original stupa was bombed by a US Aircraft in 1966 and partially destroyed. The site is about 7km out of Luang Namtha town, and is easily accessible by bicycle or tuktuk. At present there is no signage explaining the history of the site. That Poum Pouk Festival is held each February.

Vat That Luang* Ban Saysomboune, Luang Namtha District Vat That Luang was completed in 2007 and is Luang Namtha town’s only Buddhist temple. The temple is easily accessible from the town center and offers spectacular views across the Namtha valley.

Vat Mahaphot and ‘Khou Vieng’ archaeological site* Vieng Phoukha District The ruins of Vat Mahaphot and surrounding archaeological site are 2km north of Vieng Phoukha town on the main road. Little research has been done on the site, but ruins suggest that a large city existed here, dating from possibly as early as the 8th-11th century. The city went into decline in the 18th century and by the 19th century was abandoned. Large bronze drums were made here, which can be seen in private houses in VPK and collections in Luang Namtha and Chiang Mai. The extent of the city can be seen in the large earthen ramparts surrounding the ruins of Vat Mahaphot. There are numerous ruined pagodas, piles of old bricks and pottery spread over the 20 hectare district protected area under the administration of the District Information and Culture Office.

Nam Dee Waterfall Ban Nam Dee*, Namtha District There is a small entrance fee to the Ban Nam Dee Waterfall and nature trail. There is also a small charge to park bicycles, motorbikes and cars. It is about 6 km from Luang Namtha, so is easily accessible as a day trip, and is used by local and international tourists. Two tracks are in place to allow access during the rainy season, and a pavilion is set at the base of the lower falls. Bathing is possible in the upper falls. A handicraft shop and drinks stalls are at the ticketing area.

Nam Ha National Protected Area* The Nam Ha NPA, an ASEAN Heritage Site, is reported to have at least 38 species of large mammals, and 22 endangered species. The original vegetation is dense, triple canopy subtropical monsoon forest. It is estimated that about 30% of the NPA has primary forest, and that 60% has been altered and is now re-growth or woody shrub land. 10% has been converted to farmland. The NPA is divided into management zones, consisting of three strictly protected core zones that cover 30% of the total area and multi-use areas where livelihood activities such as hunting, harvesting non-timber forest products, and agriculture is allowed by the 104 villages that surround the NPA. Wildlife of all kinds is reported to be in decline due to hunting and the wildlife trade. A number of eco-trekking tours go into the NPA.

Nam Eng or Kao Rao Cave* Ban Nam Eng, Vieng Phoukha District The Nam Eng cave complex is located 12 km north of Vieng Phoukha, and has three caves. Kao Rao, also known as the dry or fossil cave, goes about 3.2 kilometers back into the hill, and has a number of interesting formations. Villagers have a cave concession and run tours to the caves. The resurgence or wet cave extends 3.4 km back into the hillside and is flooded during the rainy season and after heavy rainfalls year-round. There is another smaller cave just south of the two main caves that is not open to visitors because locals consider it sacred. It is possible to visit the entry to the cave, which has a small stream coming from the entrance and is a pleasant five minute walk through forest from the road. Legend has it that a large python was released in the cave by an old man who has raised it from when it was small, but blinded it when it began eating village livestock. He released it into the cave, promising it that he would feed it every year, and so each year villagers sacrifice a chicken and a piglet at the cave.

Phou Prasat Cave Ban Namai, Vieng Phoukha District Phou Prasat has a complex of 9 caves. The longest is approximately 650 metres long, and has good stalactites, stalagmites and drapery formations. The main cave is dry and easily accessible. Local people use it for hunting bats. Some tours access the site.

Namtha River* The Namtha River rises in the NPA near the Chinese border, and joins the Mekong 325 km near Houay Xay. The Namtha is a transportation highway for many villages especially in the wet season when roads are impassable. It links Nale district with Luang Namtha and downstream to the Mekong and Houay Xay .

Nam Fa and Nam Jook Rivers*

18 Vieng Phoukha District Stone tools found here and near Nam Eng suggest that humans may have occupied the caves in prehistoric times. The source of the Nam Jook River is the Nam Eng resurgence cave.

Bor Kung Forest and Shrimp Spring* Vieng Phoukha District Bor Kung forest is 18 hectares of protected forest close to VPK town. It has a number of large trees, and a spring, which is used for bathing by locals. The spring has a reputation for being clear all the time. Also in the reserve are the ruins of a 16th century ruined pagoda.

7. MONITORING & EVALUATION Monitoring and evaluation of NSEC interventions will occur twice during the 5-year STDP. Baseline information will be collected in October 2009, and the second evaluation process will occur in 2013. Initial Baseline Data Collection: October 2009 Follow-up Evaluation: October 2013

Suggested Indicators: 1. Number of visitors entering Bokeo and Luang Namtha Provinces through the international border points 2. Average length of stay 3. Average daily spending 4. Tourist satisfaction survey 5. Number of visitors participating in the PTO’s eco-tours 6. Number of website visits 7. Expenditures at select project-supported sites: a. Nam Dee Village in Luang Namtha District – income from ticketing b. Parking fees and other income at Nam Ha Tourist Information Center c. Vieng Neua Village in Luang Namtha District – sales of khai paen in project-sponsored packaging d. Income at Nam Eng Caves – ticketing and parking e. Income at Vat Mahaphot – ticketing and parking f. Income at Bor Kung – ticketing and parking g. Parking income at Nam Pae lookout h. Parking income at Ban Don Chai market i. Income at French Garrison – ticketing and parking

8. ACTION PLAN Activities associated with the implementation of the NSEC route will follow the 6- month rotational action planning process of the GMS Sustainable Tourism Development Project as follows:

Action Plan 1: 1 April 2009 – 30 September 2010 (current planning period) Action Plan 2: 1 October 2009 – 31 March 2010 Action Plan 3: 1 April 2010 – 30 September 2010 Action Plan 4: 1 October 2010 – 31 March 2011 Action Plan 5: 1 April 2011 – 30 September 2011 Action Plan 6: 1 October 2011 – 31 March 2012 Action Plan 7: 1 April 2012 – 30 September 2012 Action Plan 8: 1 October 2013 – 31 March 2014

A summary of the project’s action plan is included in part IV of the NSEC planning documents