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Vol. XXVIII.—No. 1. JULY, 1868 Whole No. 163. SCENES IN CANADA. BY MBS. E. OAKES SMITH. exultation as they leap the rocky Gulf of Niagara. Gathering up their white robes, they flow tranquilly through Lake Ontario, known to the Indian as Onontorio, which signifies handsome lake; thence issuing in state, they recommence their august march through the St. Lawrence to the ocean. The Grand River—La Grande Biviere—as the French delighted to call this wonderful river, is one of the most interesting flooded high- ways in the world; whether wild and tumult- uous, a thousand Niagaras rushing headlong to the sea, or moving jubilant amid her thou- sand isles—now expanding into fair lakes and anon sweeping in regal The traveller, in descending the St. Law- pleasant bays, and cities, she is always rence, ought, if possible, to commence his pomp by battlemented journey at Niagara, where the bugle notes of grand or beautiful. comfortable and the rapids form a fitting prelude to the organ- Sacket's Harbor is also a of departure for this excit- peal of this avalanche of waters. The vast convenient point situated on the south shore inward lakes of the northwest, moving majes- ing voyage. It is Bay, about eight miles from tically oceanward, seem to lift up a cry of of Black River i — Down the. St. Lawrence. Lake Ontario. The situation is very pictur- vary from an area containing many acres to esque, and the harbor, protected by a slip of that of a mere rock, with sufficient soil to land, which defends it from the sudden action embrace a single tree, or a green tuft of of violent winds, is at once safe and commo- clover, a handful of violets, or a few harebells, dious. The largest ships ride safely in this their silken filaments tossing in the breeze. beautiful bay, thus affording safe anchorage Always lonely, this northern archipelago seems for the naval force designed to protect our to offer a perpetual lure to the thoughtful northern frontier. It is the site, not only of and sensitive to seek repose amid their a naval depot, but of a military station also, silence and solitude. Here amid the Thou- though now much fallen to neglect. It was sand Isles, before the traveller nears the founded about the beginning of the present rapids, there is an enchantment of verdure century, but its growth has been by no means and repose. rapid, numbering as it does little more than We now pass several places of little com- two thousand inhabitants. parative interest, their associations being Sacket's Harbor presents even more than quite modern, and enter upon the more ex- an ordinary variety of denizens, soldiers, citing portion of Down the St. Lawrence. sailors of every grade, hunters from the back- Already we begin to experience the sound woods, civil and military officials, and last not of many waters; there is a plunge—an inde- least, the sad children of the red men, who scribable roar. It reminds one of a gallant ship, wander listlessly through the thoroughfares " With the wind through spar and shroud, that cover their ancient hunting-grounds. That hears a sound like the forest voice Sacket's Harbor was the rendezvous of the When the wind is piping loud." lake fleet during the war of 1812, and from hence four thousand men marched forth to A sense of deep awe pervades every coun- participate in the battle of La Chine. Here tenance. The giddiest brain and foolishest was a hospital and a depot of military stores tongue are hushed to silence now, and every for the use of the northern army, and the eye is intent upon the " hell of waters." Deep, streets of Sacket's Harbor were filled with fathomless emotions throng upon the heart the sick and wounded, who suffered so much weird, unearthly, unlike those ever to be ex- in that late and rigorous campaign. perienced again. Exultation there is, but it Crossing the St. Lawrence, and leaving is subordinate to an indescribable awe—not behind us Wolf Island, which is placed like a so much the sense of danger. I think the sentinel to guard the egress of Lake Ontario, selfism of personality is all at once crushed we come to the city of Kingston, one of the out of the beholder, and he becomes a part of first cities of Canada West, and next to Mon- the universe—he realizes the visions of his treal and Quebec the strongest fortified place dreams, the chaotic magnificence of pre- in British America. Here all is bustle and existent reminiscences, and he strives to re- activity, and though, in a military point of member where he has seen it all before, view, of no more imminent value to England repeating inwardly, "Deep calleth unto deep, than Sacket's Harbor is to the United States, at the noise of thy waterspouts; all thy yet the policy of the two governments in the billows arc gone over me. I heard the voice protection of their frontiers is here most of many waters, and behold the Ancient of strikingly exhibited. On our own side all Days seated on a great white throne." things wear the aspect of decay and neglect, For protracted grandeur of emotion, there while on the British side, the alert sound of is nothing in all the experience of a traveller the bugle, the prestige of well-appointed commensurate with a descent down the long troops, the stir of a busy population, and the rapids of the St. Lawrence. In all this peril- presence of a large naval and land force, ous descent, the passenger needs but to show at once that, if the sun never sets upon glance at our pilot to feel entirely assured. He the British rule, her forecast and vigilance is, indeed, no ordinary man. He is a half- are also sleepless and untiring. breed, and lives at St. Kegis. He has the eye Perhaps there is no finer view of the Thou- of an eagle, the composure of an autocrat, the sand Isles than that chosen by the artist of skill of a Frenchman, and the nerve of an our party. They seem here to sleep like Indian. We shall never look upon his like green emeralds, enchanted to be the home of again. He is said to be about sixty years of some species of sprites, whose home is mid- age, but is certainly gifted, as all great crea- way between land and water. These islands tions are, with perpetual youth, or, what is Down the St. Lawrence. better, fu.ll, but imdecaying manhood. His just above Montreal, introducing a vast quan- face and demeanor are a study for an artist. tity of water from a distance of seven hundred Such an air of authority, without the shadow miles, draining a vast northern valley of of pretence ! He magnifies his office by an eighty thousand square miles. Its entrance assured, solemn, heroic bearing, truly mag- into the St. Lawrence is grand and majestic, netic. He is the only man who has ever suggesting images of vastness and uncertainty piloted a steamer down the great La Chine bordering on the sublime. The high north- rapids, and truly it is a Napoleonic feat, ern latitude in which it rises renders it worthy to immortalize any man. No one affluent in snow and ice, which, upon the who has never made the passage can fully breaking up of winter, are poured irresistibly estimate the magnitude of the peril, and the along the St. Lawrence. These northern skill, judgment and nerve requisite to over- forests through which the Ottawa flows come it. afford inexhaustible supplies, while game of We took in our pilot at the Indian village the largest size roam their solitudes, and give of St. Regis. It was a day bright and clear, employment to a hardy race of lumbermen and the aspect of the place was not unpleas- and experienced hunters, Indian, French and ing. Children were at play in front of the English. The bark wigwams of the Indians VIEW OF THOUSAND ISLANDS FROM ALEXANDRIA BAY. houses, boys fishing from the rocks, women are very picturesque, and, being closely-over- engaged in the ordinary avocations of the topped by large sheets of the fragrant hem- sex, and old men smoking in the sunshine. lock, are at once durable, warm and cleanly. St. Regis is about fourteen miles from Their appearance is very much that of a Messena Springs, whose chalybeate virtues soldier's tent. The fire is made upon the are well attested. The Indians called the ground in the centre, the smoke escaping place Kan-a-swa-stak-eras, which, being in- through an aperture in the roof; the door terpreted, means, " a place where the earth consists of the skin of some wild animal. In smells bad." So much for an Indian's appre- early life the young Indian wife exhibits both ciation of mineral springs. taste and skill in the arrangement- of her The Indians own a large tract of land here wigwam, ornamenting it with green boughs and several fine islands, which are perma- and wild-flowers; but, as the hardships of nently secured to them, and cannot be sold. her condition begin to press more upon her, The Indian name of St. Regis was Ak-wis- she loses the vivacity and taste which invari- sas-ne, or " where the partridge drums," inti- ably distinguish the young savage, and be- mating the abundance of game. The village comes the patient drudge of her lordly chief- is slightly elevated, commanding a fine view bearing the burdens of the chase and daily life.

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