Herbaceous Plants

Master Gardener Volunteer Program

11/27/2018 Pre-Work

• Discuss with a partner: Do you have a garden now? How are you using your garden? Talk about one thing you learned from the readings, and how you will apply it to your garden. Learning Objectives

We will… • Identify the factors that should be considered in site selection for herbaceous plants and lawns. • Describe the processes for developing and maintaining a garden. • Become familiar with the cultural practices needed to successfully grow perennials, bulbs, biennials, and annuals. Herbaceous Plants: Annuals

• Annual – Entire life cycle in 1 year (seed, growing plant, bloom, fruit/seed) – Die completely, grow back from seeds – Seeds can be collected and stored for re-planting, may self- seed if spent blooms are not removed

Spring Summer Fall Winter

Direct plant seeds Deadhead to Remove spent Plant seeds 6-8 or transplants after maintain flowering. plants and weeks before frost date. Add Fertilize with 5-10-5 compost. Add rock setting out date (or bone meal to soil if or 10-10-10 liquid or powders if desired as directed on seed desired. as slow-release and scratch in to pack). granular fertilizer. soil. Water regularly - ~1” weekly Herbaceous Plants: Perennials

• Perennial – Winter: tops die back, crown and root systems go dormant – Spring: tops and roots come out of dormancy – When grown from seed: • First year – vegetative growth • Second year – bloom

Spring Summer Fall Winter

Plant new Remove spent Cut back or Dormant perennials. Divide blooms to extend deadhead unless or thin as required. flowering in some leaving seed heads Fertilize. species. Sidedress for wildlife. with fertilizer or manure heavy bloomers. Herbaceous Plants: Biennials

• Biennial – First year: growth from seed to plant – Winter: tops die back, crown and root systems go dormant – Second year: tops and roots come out of dormancy, bloom and seeding – When grown from seed: • First year – vegetative growth • Second year – bloom and die – Examples include: cup and saucers, hollyhock

Spring Summer Fall Winter

First Year Plant new Remove spent Cut back or Dormant perennials. blooms to prune unless Fertilize. extend leaving seed flowering in heads for some species. wildlife.

Second Year Fertilize. Bloom and set Seed and die seed Herbaceous Plants: Bulbs, Corms & Tubers

• Bulb – round or egg shaped, pointed stem with fleshy leaves/leaf bases or ‘scales’ for storing nutrients i.e. tulips, onions • Corm – rounded, flattened oval of underground stem for storing nutrients, rootlets will pull the corm down into the soil i.e. crocosmia, gladiolus • Tuber – thickened oblong underground stem i.e. potato, dahlia

Spring Summer Fall Winter

Spring Root growth, Dormant Root growth. Dormant Blooming foliage growth, Plant new bloom. bulbs. Fertilize. Fall Blooming Root growth. Dormant Root growth, Dormant Plant new foliage growth, bulbs. Fertilize. bloom. Herbaceous Plants: Ornamental Grasses and Turf

• Include true grasses, sedges, rushes, cat-tails • Monocots – narrow leaves, parallel veins • Some are annuals, some are perennials, some are evergreen Why do landscape gardens fail?

#1 Poor Planning • Too shady / too sunny (poorly selected plants) • Too big (maintenance) • Too many weeds (maintenance) • Too far from water/too much water • Poor soil conditions (amend before planting) • Too closely spaced / overgrowth (too many A garden suffering from too much shade, plants, too large cultivars) poor drainage, and a lack of edging. Careful planning can help to address issues before planting. Site Selection

• What do you want to do? – Needs assessment what is wanted, needed, and possible within budget • What sites are available? – Site assessment what exists right now, what are the strengths and weaknesses of the site Needs Assessment

• What do you want to do in this space? • Who will use it? • How much money do you want to spend? • Will you do this yourself, or will you hire a contractor? • How much time can you devote to installation, maintenance? • Will you maintain it yourself, or hire a contractor? • How long do you want it to last? Garden Failures?

• We jump right in without a plan… and wonder why our garden doesn’t meet our expectations and is so hard to manage. • We come home from the greenhouse with a car load of pretty plants and interesting seeds, and no idea where to put them! • We aren’t honest with ourselves about the time, budget and effort we can commit to our gardening. • Our garden isn’t flexible to our changing needs. • We are too hard on ourselves! “We don't make mistakes, just happy little accidents.” ― Bob Ross …or we inherit someone else’s choices.

• 3.3% of households in U.S. live in new housing (Brookings Institute, 2015) • When moving into a new home, it’s usually better to wait a bit before doing any large garden projects to see what comes up! Gardens New and Old

New Lawns & Gardens Renovating Old Lawns & • Pros Gardens – Put wherever you want • Pros – You choose plants, – Use existing structure & colors, season of plants bloom – Full size/beauty already – Start out on the right – Easy to infill foot • Cons • Cons – ‘Not my style’, overgrown, – Install is hard work outdated plant selections – Expense of new plants, – Soil & mineral depletion seeds, soil – Weeds/Invasives amendments – Removals can be – Takes time to mature expensive, energy intensive Gardens New and Old: Discuss Right Plant, Right Place Review

REVIEW: • What do gardens and landscapes do for the environment? • Why is soil important? • What other site conditions/environmental factors affect plant growth?

REMEMBER: Plants that are not well adapted to a site are more prone to stress, pests and disease. Site Assessment

• What is happening at this site? – Climate and microclimate – Sunlight (full sun vs. shade) – Wind (when and from what direction) – Soils (compaction, drainage, texture) – Slopes (eater flow, wet or low areas, maintenance) – Access to water – Human actions (access points, pathways, construction, chemical inputs, other site management practices – Existing trees or other large plants – Obstructions below ground and above (structures, utilities) – Wildlife • What laws and rules apply to my site? Rules? Laws?

• Depending on where you live, you may have: – Zoning Laws – Subdivision and Land Development Ordinances (SALDO) – local laws passed by towns, counties and communities – Homeowners Association or Condo Association rules

These rules and laws may impact what you can grow, where you can grow it, even the height of your trees, shrubs, and lawn, etc…

Violations cost money, stress you out, and cause drama with the neighbors! How do I find out what I have to do?

• Research – Local zoning maps, zoning code, SALDO manual • Library • Municipal Buildings • Usually online copy is available – Apartment or Condo leases – Mortgage and Deed paperwork

Not sure? Call your municipality and ask! Zoning enforcement office. Call Before You Dig NY: 811

If you plan on doing any digging yourself… • https://www.digsafelyne wyork.com/homeownwe s • At least 2 days, but not more than 10 days from digging. Lawn and Herbaceous Plant Care

• Soil Preparation and Remediation • Mulching and Edging • Plant Selection and Design • Establishment Period • Maintenance (Watering, Weeding and Trimming) • Renovation and Renewal Soil Preparation and Remediation: Fall

• If possible, prepare the fall before for planting. – Remove grasses, weeds (sod stripping, solarization, hand pulling, non-selective herbicide) – Turn over the soil with a tiller, spade, spading fork. Remove all roots and stolons, clip back large roots. – Test soil in the garden area. Perennials grow best in pH 6.2-6.8 – Add soil amendments • Organic matter (OM) such as compost, leaves, peat moss and animal manure will help to build good soil structure and add nutrients • as directed by soil test results • In the spring, apply chemical fertilizer several days prior to planting. Organic fertilizers can be applied at any time. Soil Preparation and Remediation: Solarization

• Cut back or mow garden area first. Remove any shrubs or tree seedlings with saw/pruners. • Cover garden area with black plastic, thick newspaper or old rugs for 10-14 days • After the vegetation underneath is smothered/killed, hand dig to remove all roots and stolons • Turn soil with a fork, rototill for large areas. • Then cover with clear plastic and leave for several weeks to kill any remaining vegetation and weed seeds. Soil Preparation and Remediation: Spring

• In the spring, once the soil is ready for working, apply chemical fertilizer several days prior to planting. Organic fertilizers can be applied at any time. • Allow soil to settle a few days. • Plant! Soil Preparation and Remediation: The Landscaper Method

A fast(er) method for landscape and garden installation

1. Outline desired garden area with landscape paint. 2. On a sunny day with little to no wind, and no expected rain for a few hours… spray a complete herbicide with a short life within the painted zone ex. Gylcophosphate. Follow directions exactly as listed on the label! 3. After the vegetation has died off (a minimum of 48 hours), remove sod with a sod stripper or shovel. 4. Turn over soil with a rototiller or fork to a depth of ~6-8”. Add desired soil amendments and turn in. 5. Lay out plants as desired, and install ensuring that plants are set in the soil at the same level they were in the pots. 6. Edge the bed neatly. Apply mulch* if desired. 7. Water as needed until plants are established. Mulching and Edges: Garden Edges

• Use a garden hose or landscape paint to outline where you want a new bed to go and refine the shape • Gentle curving lines give an illusion of length • Scalloped edges, tight corners and tight angles are very difficult to maintain and mow Mulching and Edges: Finished Edges

GOAL: provide a neat edge, allow mower wheels to run along the edge, prevent hand- trimming with weed trimmer or shears, keep turf from invading the garden.

Types of edging: • Metal, wood or plastic strips • Bricks, concrete pavers • Fieldstones, rocks • Sharp edge (cut a sharp edge using a half mood edger or straight edge spade. Re-cut annually in spring, with a mid-summer trim. • Be creative! Plant Selection and Design: Garden Planning

Thinking about your garden, consider: • Season of Use • Type of Use • Intensity of Use • Time for Maintenance • Budget for Installation/Maintenance • Long Term Vision Plant Selection and Design: Reality Check

What is not possible: What is possible: • Gardens installations without • Colorful, interesting gardens for any effort all 4 seasons • Ever-blooming plants • Low-maintenance gardens • Insect-free/Animal-proof • Gardens that can be maintained by physically limited gardens gardeners • “No-maintenance” gardens • Organic gardens • Animal and insect friendly gardens • Deer-resistant gardens • Pet and child friendly gardens • Gardens that mix beauty and food production • Low-cost gardens • Gardens in small spaces, difficult locations • Xeriscape or low-water gardens Plant Selection and Design: Garden Plans

• This should be fun! – Measure your space – Make a simple base plan – Pick your plants – Draw in a blob the size of the full-grown plant – Make corrections as you buy new/change your design Plant Selection: Criteria

• Learn in advance about animal/disease/insect susceptibility • Select plants to suit your site Right Plant, Right Place • Know the growth habit, how the leaves/blooms will look through the seasons. • Determine which plants are long-lived, short-lived • Know your zone, soil type, and any other factors that might impact your selection • Mixing annuals, perennials, biennials, woody plants and shrubs together helps to make a diverse and beautiful garden. Plant Selection and Design: Some Tips

• Select plants that fit your intended • Consider texture and shape – contrasts garden use (butterfly attracting, colorful look attractive (large/small, fine/coarse, blooms, etc…) dark/light) • Plan for a continual sequence of bloom • Plant in uneven numbers and mass from spring-fall, select for long bloom together for impact – this appears more • Pay attention to height – taller and larger visually pleasing plants to the back or the center of a • Avoid solitary plants unless circular bed, shorter plants in the front large/robust/unique enough to serve as • Mix annuals, perennials, shrubs and a highlight evergreens for 4 season interest • Think about structure – fences, obelisks • Aim for full, but not crowded. Plants will and garden décor reach full size over the next 2-3 years. • Determine paths and access – some • Fill in with annuals if your garden looks plants require deadheading and will sparse need to be within arms reach Plant Selection and Design: Research Establishment Period: Planting Out

Have at the ready: • Garden plan • Prepared garden bed • Plants/seeds • Cardboard or wood planks to prevent compaction • Shovel, fork, gloves, pruners • Hose and/or watering can • Tags and Sharpie for labeling • Bucket for trimmings/weeds Establishment Period: Planting Out

1. Water plants first. Transplants will ‘take’ better. 2. Lay out your plants/seed packets where you want them to go. Make adjustments as needed (make sure to note this on your design) 3. Dig holes for your plants that are 2x wider and slightly deeper than the pot. Toss in OM or a little slow-release fertilizer. 4. Tip the plant out of the pot carefully. If root bound, score the root ball and/or tease the bottom of the roots apart. This will help stimulate new root growth. 5. Position the plant where you want it, making sure the plant isn’t too deep – it should be the same depth it was in the pot. All the roots should be in the hole. 6. Firmly tamp soil back around the plant. 7. Once all plants are installed, gently water in.

OPTIONAL – apply mulch. Make sure that mulch does not touch the plants.

NOTE: Some gardeners like to keep their plant tags in the garden for the first year. This way, if the plant dies they know what it was (and can get a refund where applicable). And it helps you to know what to look for in the spring! Establishment Period

• Select for Right Plant, Right Place • Choose disease resistant varieties • Don’t bring home unhealthy plants • Keep your garden neat and tidy (weed and deadhead) • Maintain adequate moisture, avoid shallow overhead watering • Keep plants in vigorous growing by dividing and discarding old and dead issue • Use adequate spacing – thin emerging shoots to prevent mildew problems on problem plants like Phlox & Bee Balm • Closely check monoculture (mass plantings of the same perennial) for pest build-up • Avoid planting clusters of perennials and shrubs that are attractive to the same pests. • Monitor for insect and disease problems Maintenance: Watering, Weeding, Trimming & Propagation

New gardens require maintenance. • Water ~1” a week • Weeding – are you growing what you want, where you want it? • Trimming – removing spent blooms, keeping vigorous growers in check, harvesting herbs/fruits/flowers • Propagation – splitting/dividing, seed saving, cuttings Maintenance: Make Watering Simple

• Plan your gardens close to a water source • No water source? – Add a rain barrel – Plan for a xeriscape – a water-saving garden that reduces or removes the need to be watered • How to: direct water at the roots of plants, and water deeply. Avoid shallow overhead watering, which can spread diseases. Utilize mulches to help with water retention. Maintenance: Watering – when and how much?

• Monitor rain your garden receives with a rain gauge • Gardens need ~1” per week of water • Consistent, deep watering – don’t wait until plants wilt! Maintenance: Weeding

What’s a weed? Anything growing where you don’t want it! This may include plants that are wandering off to where you don’t want them. Maintenance: Weeding How-to

Get the whole weed! Leaves AND roots. • Use a tool with one hand to poke and loosen the soil around the roots of the weed • Using your other hand, grab the entire plant at the soil level and shimmy/wiggle firmly until the plant is loosened and you can pull the ENTIRE THING in one go.

TIPS: • Moist soil is your friend. Weeding after a light rain is much easier! • Can’t bend over? Use a tool like a cobra-head hoe, stand-up weeder, etc. Stand up straight, using the tool close to your body. • Weed before your weeds set seed, and you’ll find that your weeding gets easier over time. • Weeds can go in compost bins, but if they have a seed head toss that into the trash to prevent weed seeds from spreading. Maintenance: A note about work

• Gardening will be easier with a few basic tools: – Gloves – Shovel (pointed tip) – Garden Hoe – Rake – Hand weeder (a pointy tool) – Hand trowel – Pruners – Bucket

Tools come in many styles, sizes and levels of quality – there is always something new on the market that claims it will make gardening easy. There will always be some sweat and work involved! Maintenance: Decluttering for Gardeners Maintenance: What do I have now?

Keep your plan up to date: • Trees • Shrubs • Plants • Lawn • Pots and Containers

Garden journals, idea boards, photos, garden plan – all these can help you remember what’s in your garden AND what you want to do next! Maintenance: Identification Through the Seasons

• Landscapes vary seasonally • Different plants may be present at different times - bulbs and ephemeral plants may appear/disappear and are easy to forget! • Distinctive plant features that are critical to identification may only be present in one season (seed pods, nuts, flowers, fruit) Maintenance: Oops, I forgot what I planted! (A quick and dirty guide to using Google)

• Describe the plant as you see it “red shrub with multiple stems” • Click the ‘Images’ tab • Click around until you find a likely suspect • Investigate and confirm – check more than one image! • Write it down! (Latin names)

NOTE: Check the web site before you click! • Universities = good. • Garden centers = good • Free image sites = no good Maintenance: Herbaceous Plant Propagation

• Seed • Division • Cuttings Maintenance: Sharing your garden with others

• Once your garden is established, you can share the wealth! – Seed saving and seed swaps – Sharing and selling plant offsets and divisions – Garden tours and field trips Learning Objectives

• We… • Identified the factors that should be considered in site selection for herbaceous plants and lawns. • Became familiar with the cultural practices needed to successfully grow perennials, bulbs, biennials, annuals and lawns. Resources

• Aker, Scott. Annuals and Bedding Plants https://cpb-us- e1.wpmucdn.com/blogs.cornell.edu/dist/f/575/files/2015/12/12annuals- 1efnrk2.pdf • Cornell Garden Based Learning – Lawns & Landscapes Resources http://gardening.cals.cornell.edu/garden-guidance/lawns- landscapes/#Annual%20and%20Perennial%20Flowers • Curran, Pat. Pat Curran’s ‘Top’ Plant Lists http://gardening.cals.cornell.edu/garden-guidance/lawns-landscapes/pat- currans-top-plant-lists/ • Hockenberry and Mower. Ornamental Grasses for the Home and Garden. https://ecommons.cornell.edu/bitstream/handle/1813/3268/Ornamental%20Gr asses%20for%20the%20Home%20and%20Garden.pdf?sequence=2&isAllow ed=y • Mendez, Kerry Ann. The Right-Size Flower Garden • Mower and Lee. Sequence of Bloom of Perennials, Biennials and Bulbs https://ecommons.cornell.edu/handle/1813/3269 • Nelson, Lee. Herbaceous Perennial Gardening https://cpb-us- e1.wpmucdn.com/blogs.cornell.edu/dist/f/575/files/2015/12/11perennials- wxokkg.pdf Learn More

Contact: Cornell Garden-Based Learning http://gardening.cals.cornell.edu/

Published: October, 2018 Author: Michelle Podolec Reviewer: Lori Brewer