Herbaceous Plants Session Slides and Facilitator Notes
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Herbaceous Plants Master Gardener Volunteer Program 11/27/2018 Pre-Work • Discuss with a partner: Do you have a garden now? How are you using your garden? Talk about one thing you learned from the readings, and how you will apply it to your garden. Learning Objectives We will… • Identify the factors that should be considered in site selection for herbaceous plants and lawns. • Describe the processes for developing and maintaining a garden. • Become familiar with the cultural practices needed to successfully grow perennials, bulbs, biennials, and annuals. Herbaceous Plants: Annuals • Annual – Entire life cycle in 1 year (seed, growing plant, bloom, fruit/seed) – Die completely, grow back from seeds – Seeds can be collected and stored for re-planting, may self- seed if spent blooms are not removed Spring Summer Fall Winter Direct plant seeds Deadhead to Remove spent Plant seeds 6-8 or transplants after maintain flowering. plants and weeks before frost date. Add Fertilize with 5-10-5 compost. Add rock setting out date (or bone meal to soil if or 10-10-10 liquid or powders if desired as directed on seed desired. as slow-release and scratch in to pack). granular fertilizer. soil. Water regularly - ~1” weekly Herbaceous Plants: Perennials • Perennial – Winter: tops die back, crown and root systems go dormant – Spring: tops and roots come out of dormancy – When grown from seed: • First year – vegetative growth • Second year – bloom Spring Summer Fall Winter Plant new Remove spent Cut back or Dormant perennials. Divide blooms to extend deadhead unless or thin as required. flowering in some leaving seed heads Fertilize. species. Sidedress for wildlife. with fertilizer or manure heavy bloomers. Herbaceous Plants: Biennials • Biennial – First year: growth from seed to plant – Winter: tops die back, crown and root systems go dormant – Second year: tops and roots come out of dormancy, bloom and seeding – When grown from seed: • First year – vegetative growth • Second year – bloom and die – Examples include: cup and saucers, hollyhock Spring Summer Fall Winter First Year Plant new Remove spent Cut back or Dormant perennials. blooms to prune unless Fertilize. extend leaving seed flowering in heads for some species. wildlife. Second Year Fertilize. Bloom and set Seed and die seed Herbaceous Plants: Bulbs, Corms & Tubers • Bulb – round or egg shaped, pointed stem with fleshy leaves/leaf bases or ‘scales’ for storing nutrients i.e. tulips, onions • Corm – rounded, flattened oval of underground stem for storing nutrients, rootlets will pull the corm down into the soil i.e. crocosmia, gladiolus • Tuber – thickened oblong underground stem i.e. potato, dahlia Spring Summer Fall Winter Spring Root growth, Dormant Root growth. Dormant Blooming foliage growth, Plant new bloom. bulbs. Fertilize. Fall Blooming Root growth. Dormant Root growth, Dormant Plant new foliage growth, bulbs. Fertilize. bloom. Herbaceous Plants: Ornamental Grasses and Turf • Include true grasses, sedges, rushes, cat-tails • Monocots – narrow leaves, parallel veins • Some are annuals, some are perennials, some are evergreen Why do landscape gardens fail? #1 Poor Planning • Too shady / too sunny (poorly selected plants) • Too big (maintenance) • Too many weeds (maintenance) • Too far from water/too much water • Poor soil conditions (amend before planting) • Too closely spaced / overgrowth (too many A garden suffering from too much shade, plants, too large cultivars) poor drainage, and a lack of edging. Careful planning can help to address issues before planting. Site Selection • What do you want to do? – Needs assessment what is wanted, needed, and possible within budget • What sites are available? – Site assessment what exists right now, what are the strengths and weaknesses of the site Needs Assessment • What do you want to do in this space? • Who will use it? • How much money do you want to spend? • Will you do this yourself, or will you hire a contractor? • How much time can you devote to installation, maintenance? • Will you maintain it yourself, or hire a contractor? • How long do you want it to last? Garden Failures? • We jump right in without a plan… and wonder why our garden doesn’t meet our expectations and is so hard to manage. • We come home from the greenhouse with a car load of pretty plants and interesting seeds, and no idea where to put them! • We aren’t honest with ourselves about the time, budget and effort we can commit to our gardening. • Our garden isn’t flexible to our changing needs. • We are too hard on ourselves! “We don't make mistakes, just happy little accidents.” ― Bob Ross …or we inherit someone else’s choices. • 3.3% of households in U.S. live in new housing (Brookings Institute, 2015) • When moving into a new home, it’s usually better to wait a bit before doing any large garden projects to see what comes up! Gardens New and Old New Lawns & Gardens Renovating Old Lawns & • Pros Gardens – Put wherever you want • Pros – You choose plants, – Use existing structure & colors, season of plants bloom – Full size/beauty already – Start out on the right – Easy to infill foot • Cons • Cons – ‘Not my style’, overgrown, – Install is hard work outdated plant selections – Expense of new plants, – Soil & mineral depletion seeds, soil – Weeds/Invasives amendments – Removals can be – Takes time to mature expensive, energy intensive Gardens New and Old: Discuss Right Plant, Right Place Review REVIEW: • What do gardens and landscapes do for the environment? • Why is soil important? • What other site conditions/environmental factors affect plant growth? REMEMBER: Plants that are not well adapted to a site are more prone to stress, pests and disease. Site Assessment • What is happening at this site? – Climate and microclimate – Sunlight (full sun vs. shade) – Wind (when and from what direction) – Soils (compaction, drainage, texture) – Slopes (eater flow, wet or low areas, maintenance) – Access to water – Human actions (access points, pathways, construction, chemical inputs, other site management practices – Existing trees or other large plants – Obstructions below ground and above (structures, utilities) – Wildlife • What laws and rules apply to my site? Rules? Laws? • Depending on where you live, you may have: – Zoning Laws – Subdivision and Land Development Ordinances (SALDO) – local laws passed by towns, counties and communities – Homeowners Association or Condo Association rules These rules and laws may impact what you can grow, where you can grow it, even the height of your trees, shrubs, and lawn, etc… Violations cost money, stress you out, and cause drama with the neighbors! How do I find out what I have to do? • Research – Local zoning maps, zoning code, SALDO manual • Library • Municipal Buildings • Usually online copy is available – Apartment or Condo leases – Mortgage and Deed paperwork Not sure? Call your municipality and ask! Zoning enforcement office. Call Before You Dig NY: 811 If you plan on doing any digging yourself… • https://www.digsafelyne wyork.com/homeownwe s • At least 2 days, but not more than 10 days from digging. Lawn and Herbaceous Plant Care • Soil Preparation and Remediation • Mulching and Edging • Plant Selection and Design • Establishment Period • Maintenance (Watering, Weeding and Trimming) • Renovation and Renewal Soil Preparation and Remediation: Fall • If possible, prepare the fall before for planting. – Remove grasses, weeds (sod stripping, solarization, hand pulling, non-selective herbicide) – Turn over the soil with a tiller, spade, spading fork. Remove all roots and stolons, clip back large roots. – Test soil in the garden area. Perennials grow best in pH 6.2-6.8 – Add soil amendments • Organic matter (OM) such as compost, leaves, peat moss and animal manure will help to build good soil structure and add nutrients • as directed by soil test results • In the spring, apply chemical fertilizer several days prior to planting. Organic fertilizers can be applied at any time. Soil Preparation and Remediation: Solarization • Cut back or mow garden area first. Remove any shrubs or tree seedlings with saw/pruners. • Cover garden area with black plastic, thick newspaper or old rugs for 10-14 days • After the vegetation underneath is smothered/killed, hand dig to remove all roots and stolons • Turn soil with a fork, rototill for large areas. • Then cover with clear plastic and leave for several weeks to kill any remaining vegetation and weed seeds. Soil Preparation and Remediation: Spring • In the spring, once the soil is ready for working, apply chemical fertilizer several days prior to planting. Organic fertilizers can be applied at any time. • Allow soil to settle a few days. • Plant! Soil Preparation and Remediation: The Landscaper Method A fast(er) method for landscape and garden installation 1. Outline desired garden area with landscape paint. 2. On a sunny day with little to no wind, and no expected rain for a few hours… spray a complete herbicide with a short life within the painted zone ex. Gylcophosphate. Follow directions exactly as listed on the label! 3. After the vegetation has died off (a minimum of 48 hours), remove sod with a sod stripper or shovel. 4. Turn over soil with a rototiller or fork to a depth of ~6-8”. Add desired soil amendments and turn in. 5. Lay out plants as desired, and install ensuring that plants are set in the soil at the same level they were in the pots. 6. Edge the bed neatly. Apply mulch* if desired. 7. Water as needed until plants are established. Mulching and Edges: Garden Edges • Use a garden hose or landscape paint to outline where you want a new bed to go and refine the shape • Gentle curving lines give an illusion of length • Scalloped edges, tight corners and tight angles are very difficult to maintain and mow Mulching and Edges: Finished Edges GOAL: provide a neat edge, allow mower wheels to run along the edge, prevent hand- trimming with weed trimmer or shears, keep turf from invading the garden.