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Berry Plants YEARS • Strawberries, Raspberries, Blueberries, Schloemann at 413-545-4347, Sgs@Umext.Umass.Edu August 2015 Vol. 27, No. 8 Berry Notes is edited by Sonia Schloemann with articles www.umass.edu/fruitadvisor/berrynotes/index.html written by other contributors with attribution; sources are cited. Publication is funded in part by the UMass Extension Agriculture & Landscape Program, subscription fees and Since 1932 generous underwriting. Questions can be directed to Sonia 80 The Best Berry Plants YEARS • Strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, Schloemann at 413-545-4347, [email protected]. Please blackberries, asparagus and more! • Where the pros go for plans and plants. cite this source if reprinting information that originates here. • Call for a free catalog and plasticulture guide! 41 River Road, South Deerfeld, Massachusetts 01373 www.noursefarms.com 413.665.2658 CROP CONDITIONS: IN THIS ISSUE: Strawberry fields remain quiet at this time of year. Dayneutral varieties are still CROP CONDITIONS fruiting. Some annual production fields are being planted now. Late summer and ENVIRONMENTAL DATA early fall is a good time to fertilize both new and established strawberry fields. STRAWBERRY Typically strawberries will need 20 – 50 pounds of nitrogen at this time of year. v Late Season Strawberry Care – Amounts depend on how much was applied at renovation and the organic matter Including Foliar Disease content of the soil. Evaluate established fields for the foliar diseases or other Management problems that could carry over to next year. Also scout fields for weed problems v Strawberry Fruit Bud that can be addressed in the fall. Highbush Blueberry harvest is about done. A Development few late varieties may still be active. Late season varieties showed increased SWD infestation levels where rigorous management was not employed. Survey RASPBERRIES/BLACKBERRIES fields before fall dormancy for weak bushes and determine whether or not Blueberry Stunt or Scorch virus may be the cause. Contact the UMass Extension v Orange Rust of Blackberry and Plant Diagnostic Lab for help with virus testing. Only non-nitrogen fertilizer Black Raspberry applications should be made this late in the season if leaf tissue tests indicate v Late Leaf Rust of Raspberry deficiency. Also, be sure to keep your blueberries watered during the coming weeks to avoid drought stress as they go into dormancy. Scout fields for weeds to BLUEBERRIES prepare for late season management strategies. Summer raspberry harvest is v Putnam Scale in Blueberries complete and spent floricanes can be removed now to allow for good light v Powdery Mildew on Blueberries – penetration to primocanes. This can increase flower bud formation along the Not Symptoms You’d Expect length of the canes. Be on the lookout for Orange Rust on black raspberries and blackberries. Fall raspberries are in full production and SWD management is the GRAPES most important activity at this time. SWD populations are increasing rapidly in v Don’t Let Bunch Rots Ruin Your this hot humid weather. Be sure to rotate materials and make sure to adhere to Grapes label restrictions when only a limited number of applications is allowed. Botrytis v Grape Anthracnose fruit rot is still a threat, especially if wet weather returns. Be sure to provide irrigation (drip preferred) so the canes can size up the fruit. Also check for mites and leafhopper damage. Grapes are approaching harvest. Scouting for disease GENERAL INFORMATION and insect levels and taking corrective action are still important activities now. v Do My Fruit Have SWD? v Prepare for wine grape harvest by checking fruit ripening parameters regularly. Late Summer Weed Control Mite infestations can build up quickly at this time of year. Be sure to check the Options for Berries underside of your leaves. UPCOMING MEETINGS 1 ENVIRONMENTAL DATA The following growing-degree-day (GDD) and precipitation data was collected for an approximately two week period, August 7 through August 19. Soil temperature and phenological indicators were observed on or about August 19. Total accumulated GDDs represent the heating units above a 50° F baseline temperature collected via our instruments for the 2015 calendar year. This information is intended for use as a guide for monitoring the developmental stages of pests in your location and planning management strategies accordingly. GDD GDD Precipitation GDD Soil Temp Region/Location (Total 2015 (Total 2014 (1-Week Gain in (2-Week Gain) (°F at 4" depth) Accumulation) Accumulation) inches) Cape Cod 687 1,890 1,761 80 2.37 Southeast 441 1,721 1,701 86 1.25 North Shore 606 1,840 1,876 76 0.79 East 666 2,060 1,946 77 1.22 Metro West 582 1,869 1,724 82 0.54 Central 265 1,587 1,643 70 1.56 Pioneer Valley 656 2,124 1,959 77 1.47 Berkshires 508 1,676 1,500 72 1.67 AVERAGE 551 1,846 1,764 78 1.36 n/a = information not available (Source: UMass Landscape Message #19, Aug. 21, 2015; 2014 same date GDD provided for comparison) STRAWBERRY Late Season Strawberry Care – Including Foliar Disease Management Kathy Demchack, Penn State Univ. This is the time of year when your strawberry plants are Leaf scorch: Spots on leaves start our circular and dark initiating flower buds for next year’s crop. So, anything red to purple. Eventually the center may turn brown, spots you can do take care of your plants now will help to may coalesce, and entire leaves and become affected and increase next year’s yields. Failure to take care of them die, given the whole plant a scorched appearance. Some now could set the stage for poor yields next year. So, common fungicides are effective against this disease, what do we need to do? 1) Make sure the plants have which can be easily confused which angular leaf spot, on adequate water (1-2” per week). 2) Make sure the plants which fungicides will have no effect. have sufficient nitrogen (20 to 30 pounds applied during the mid-August to mid- September time frame, or slightly more on sandy soils). If you’ve experienced a lot of rain since renovation, you may want to apply the nitrogen a bit earlier than usual, especially if plants are light green and are not growing as fast as usual. Nitrogen you applied at renovation may have been washed through the soil, especially if it was in a nitrate form. 3) Keep an eye out for foliar diseases (as you’ve probably noticed, there are a lot of them out there this year), and apply an effective fungicide for any fungal diseases. Injured leaves = less photosynthesis = less food for flower buds and healthy root growth, and a lot of inoculum overwintering can damage your plants, including fruit, next year. The trick is correctly identifying which leaf disease(s) you have, and knowing whether any the symptoms you are seeing are caused by fungus or a bacteria. Fungicides only work on diseases caused by fungi. So... here’s a description of leaf diseases I’m seeing most frequently this year, in order from most common to least common, at least for 2009. 2 Angular leaf spot: At first, light green “windowpanes” fungal mycelia on either leaf surface. On the leaf between the veins show up on the leaf when it is held up undersides, be careful not to confuse strawberry leaf hairs to the light. From the top, these areas may have a (they’re straighter and thicker) with the mycelia. blackened appearance at first. Later on, as affected areas Phomopsis leaf blight: As lesions grow, they form a enlarge and coalesce, the leaves may develop a reddish Vshape, with the wide portion of the “V” at the leaf’s tinge, with leaf tissue eventually dying and turning brown. edge. This disease (along with gray mold) was responsible for a lot of caps on the fruit turning brown or black this past Common leaf spot: I’m seeing less of this all the time - spring. Fungicides don’t affect this disease, but copper most of today’s common strawberry varieties have can help (see cautions below). Since leaf scorch and resistance. Spots are small (1/8 to 1/4 inch across), and angular leaf spot are easily confused, here are some develop white to gray centers, which may fall out. photos to help tell the Once you’ve figured out which difference. These photos are of disease(s) you have, how do you the same two leaves, held treat them? First, any cultural differently so sunlight either controls that improve air shines down on them, or through circulation will help greatly. them. The primary disease Keep rows narrowed, and keep affecting the leaf on the left is plantings weeded. As a general leaf scorch, and the one on the rule of thumb, Nova and Pristine right, angular leaf spot. In the work well on any of the above first one, where sunlight is diseases except for angular leaf shining down on the leaves, the spot – just be sure to tank-mix or leaves appear very similar. In alternate chemistries, such as the second photo, where leaves with Captan, as both are are held up so that sunlight susceptible to resistance shines through the leaf, you can development. Captan or see that light does not shine Captevate work quite well on through the leaves with leaf leaf scorch, common leaf spot, scorch on the left, but the and phomopsis leaf blight, but “windowpane” effect of angular leaf spot can be clearly not powdery mildew or angular leaf spot. Copper helps seen in the leaf on the right. Note that in these two leaves, with angular leaf spot, but phytotoxicity is a concern, so there is some of each disease present on each leaf, but the follow precautions on the package and discontinue use if disease causing most of the spots is different.
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