Issuetwo.2019 Talkmasters Issuetwo.2019 Masterstalk Content Professional Talks About Tea and Other Tasty Cultures

issuetwo.2019 talkmasters issuetwo.2019 MastersTalk Content Professional Talks about Tea and other Tasty Cultures

Albino Tea Culvars 3 Tea Microtrend Three Kilos of Tea History 8 George van Driem’s Weight Vin Jaune of Jura 14 Olga Nikandrova & Denis Shumakov’s Yellow Wine Immersion Vietnamese Tea Industry 22 Development Dynamics Real Tea Sommelier 26 Murat Kornaev’s 100 cups a day Tea in Classic Sommelier Work 34 Alexander Rassadkin’s Comment Championship Organizer’s Checklist 36 Aliona Velichko’s Experience issuetwo.2019 MastersTalk Content Professional Talks about Tea and other Tasty Cultures

Albino Tea Culvars 3 Tea Microtrend Three Kilos of Tea History 8 George van Driem’s Weight Vin Jaune of Jura 14 Olga Nikandrova & Denis Shumakov’s Yellow Wine Immersion Vietnamese Tea Industry 22 Development Dynamics Real Tea Sommelier 26 Murat Kornaev’s 100 cups a day Tea in Classic Sommelier Work 34 Alexander Rassadkin’s Comment Championship Organizer’s Checklist 36 Aliona Velichko’s Experience masterstalk.online Mas 53 43 38 t r Olg Cov © T Adv T F T Addr esponsibility f er ea Mas sim ShaT ounder andpublisher: a Nik er phot 60 46 40 ea Mas ersing: andr sT ess: o cr ov or r edits: Na a. t alk Con R eliability ofda er eprin r ooms 05-15,13A/F sui, K t s Cup er t ng ofma alia Bog

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03 masterstalk.online Mas 53 43 38 t r Olg Cov © T Adv T F T Addr esponsibility f er ea Mas sim ShaT ounder andpublisher: a Nik er phot 60 46 40 ea Mas ersing: andr sT ess: o cr ov or r edits: Na a. t alk Con R eliability ofda er eprin r ooms 05-15,13A/F sui, K t s Cup er t ng ofma alia Bog

online@mas s Cup,2019 owloon, HongK danovsk t a placedinadv , t erials isallow Mas a, K Irish Coﬀ TMC F F Ek Gundeg T a t t eřina R w t er T ersing block orma a ed onlybypermissionof themag o V en sT t ea Mas t erina Likhache er y ša alk arian v s á, Mee Not OnlyGuinness:T T Olg Ek Aliona V , SouthT t a Silniece’ t Chris alk.online ar s orannouncemen ea ChampionshipA a ong a Y na Ga t t ts, Fiv e r erina Likhache er orma ts ofT ar , +33781488464,edit s CupL egis vrilina, ovik elichk ow t Cupuaçu e V t Ma s Insigh ee andEspr ts. Theedit er v er azine. Ther ov xim Belechenk a’ aria ed tr t , WF o’ d. s Coﬀ a’ s Inde ts inaSmallMark s GoldenBar ons or E ea Championship e ’ s poin ts dit ademark C f er v o , HarbourCity ence a’ ee Mee , Caugh or t

s T x of viewma

t o Mas -in-Chie t intheMomen ea Cr t er s ofT y notc sT ngs or@mas alk mag a wl oincide with theauthor f: t Phot azine isoblig ea Mas Oly , 17Can esso Marni ogr a Buh aph t er y (speciallyf a t t ory s er t -Z . Theedit alk.online t ea inIr tz s CupL on R ’ s poin or W t ofview or oad, orld T s don’tbearan t ea Expo), . d. e s t y eland ar in In ouropinion,albinot ar of s selecon ofr In thepr fr tr know Dynas wri T season). Suchtr in thespring tr not Albino t ligh whit Fir mak a brie c albino t A ompr r t pr om themifapr ees ar ees duringcert t ea oma oft e t s er ably ligh t, lea tr t e ac se onT er inc e, butalsoligh empt es en b esen ess e , didn’tendw f r ty in1107.Theemper ehensiv ng t ea culv e v e ea culv v e ouple ofr vie y theChineseemper es ofalbinot t, w vious issueofMas ed t xperienced b ea; thoser olor than“ er t w ofsomer ea micr er inc , a ea ( y r esear e ar o t ely s t thebeginningofgr ar ees ar ar ar 大 ell y ain partsofthey oper pr e witnessingasur e, butv s; the s ar ch r emark tudied. Be olor thanthoseofc 观茶论 t gr ell, s otr ou mor eports men s e t e men t eports e een andy ends inr ea culv eas ar andar y t y ar t ele ea tr a ocessing me er s. t ea lea , DaGuanChaLun) ed tha y delicioust v e acv e aboutthem. an t or oned alr d” gr f er e oneofthemos ees whoselea or or Huiz , whoselif t s x ar sT ecen amining thee v e pr ellow es onthet oned albinot tudies, w t whit s c alk w ear (f een t ely and g an bealmos esen t y e ofin thod isused. ong oftheSong . The eady inThe e publisheda ommon t ear e-lea ea c ea lea or e owing e, asw ng t s, sow e’ y ar t an made x v er as d lik f t ample, es ar v ﬀ es t o y ea es, but t e e and ects e ea. t in ea t e t e ou e o Albino T џ џ џ џ original public culv albino t s So џ culv џ used t џ o an e or whose outw lea usually the џ џ џ џ tudies (namesgiv Xiao Suyuhuang. ak Anji Baicha Huangjincha 1. Sichuan andGuizhou. Y Qiannian R Zhonghuang 1. Huangjin Anji Huangcha. Jinguang. Baijiguan. dinar , a en f v u-Jin-Xiang. esear es ar xtr a t themomen ar ar Bai Y o mak x ound int eme r y gr s tha s tha ue ea tr e normallyusedf ch Ins ya. y ar e Y een orwhit ya. x Zhejiangpr W t w t, ifpr ees. Her e AnjiBaichagr ue. ar arity (ak i Hao W a Ningpo(Zhejiangpr d appear e notpur tut uyishan (Fujianpr Zhejiangpr ons): e c Zhejiangpr ea shop uxi (Jiangsupr a Zhejiangpr . F Hunanpr Anji(Zhejiangpr t, ther ame acr operly pr en e Baiyecha 1, e ofCAAS,Hangzhou. ). Anji(Zhejiangpr or e e isalis ea Culv e t x ance r x s. ovince. actly asthe e whit e ar ample, albinot ea. Andalbinot or makinggr oss inpublishedscien ovince. ovince. ovince, alsoc opag een t e anumberoft t ofChinesealbino ovince. Cr issue esembles tha e. Sec ak ovince). a ovince). ea, whichisf a t ed, pr ovince). ovince). Whit T y appearinthe ond, albinot ea Micr two ovince). een t ea ea lea e leafNo.1, oduce ommon in eas ar t ed b t of .20 ea ea ar otr v airly y T es ar e not ﬁc ea end 1 ea ea s 9 e

03 issuetwo.2019

All albino tea trees can be divided into two groups: Albino Tea photosensive and thermosensive. Photosensive Tangya White Tea First Grade culvars have light-colored young shoots during the Enshi, Hubei, China me of year when the sun is most acve, and when there is less sunlight, their leaves become darker and acquire the usual green color. Huangjinya, Yu- Jin-Xiang and Jinguang tea variees belong to this group of albino culvars. Young leaves of thermosensive albino tea trees are lighter in color when air temperature is low, but when it rises to 20- 22°С, the leaves become greener. Anji Baicha and Xiaoxueya belong to the group of thermosensive albino culvars.

The main characteriscs of teas made from albino leaves are approximately the same and do not depend on the nature of albinism. Compared to non-albino teas, albino teas contain more amino acids and similar compounds (including theanine), less caﬀeine and less catechins. As a rule, albino teas have more pronounced umami taste, no bierness, and less astringency.

As any potenal market micro-driver, albino teas are the subject of many studies nowadays. These studies are quite haphazard, so our review of them will most likely resemble a quilt.

If albino tea trees are shaded, their leaves turn greener, but their catechin content nevertheless remains lower than in non- albino teas: doi.org/10.1038/srep45062

Near-infrared spectroscopy and chemometrics enable us to disnguish quickly and non-destrucvely between

05 issuetwo.2019

As any potenal market micro-driver, albino teas are the subject of many studies nowadays. These studies are quite haphazard, so our review of them will most likely resemble a quilt.

If albino tea trees are shaded, their leaves turn greener, but their catechin content nevertheless remains lower than in non- albino teas: doi.org/10.1038/srep45062

Near-infrared spectroscopy and chemometrics enable us to disnguish quickly and non-destrucvely between

05 issuetwo.2019

white tea and green tea made from albino tea Albino Tea leaves. This is, undoubtedly, a very valuable piece of Tangya White Tea Special Grade knowledge, since our own spectrometers are too Enshi, Hubei, China dusty to be of use right now: doi.org/10.1002/jsfa.6376

DNA-markers help idenfy albino tea trees and their young plants when their leaves are green (e.g. in autumn): doi: 10.5897/AJB09.971

In Sichuan and in Hubei newly introduced albino tea culvars were compared with commonly used local culvars. In Sichuan, albino variees Huangjinya, Jinguang and Yujinxiang were compared with Fudingda- baicha; it was concluded that the Yujinxiang variety has a very high yield. In Hubei, albino variees (Huangjingcha 1, Anji Baicha and Zhonghuang 1) were compared with Echa 1, which is a dominant tea culvar there. Besides the analysis of biochemical components, the study focused on evaluang sensory qualies, showing that “Anji Baicha was the most excellent tea variety, followed by Huangjincha 1; Zhonghuang 1 was shown to be comparable to Echa 1”. The three albino tea culvars were all found suitable for producing high-quality green tea.

And below there is a link to a Japanese study claiming that Japan has its own albino tea culvars (Hoshinomidori, Kiraka, Yamabuki, and Morokozawa), that one of them was ﬁrst registered as early as 1981, and that, at present, the Japanese use leaves of albino tea culvars to produce light-green matcha tea.

07 issuetwo.2019

DNA-markers help idenfy albino tea trees and their young plants when their leaves are green (e.g. in autumn): doi: 10.5897/AJB09.971

07 issuetwo.2019

In your opinion, what moment should be marked Three Kilos of Tea History as “the appearance of tea in human culture”? The George van Driem’s Weight queson is not about a speciﬁc date or me period,

.online but about an event that could be designated as “the point of origin” of tea history. What is it: The

talk beginning of culvaon of tea plants? The appearance of special tea ware? The start of tea George van Driem is a linguist, professor of histori- trade? The appearance of a special word for tea? cal linguiscs, director of the Linguiscs Instute at What is the starng point of the tea history? masters the University of Bern and author of the recently The beginnings of tea history are concealed in deep published book The Tale of Tea: A Comprehensive anquity. Tea culture emerged as soon as tea was History of Tea from Prehistoric Times to the Present first consumed by humans. Throughout me, tea Muiderkring (J.A. Kruseman, 1852) Day. We asked George van Driem a few quesons Amsterdam Heritage Museums culture has changed, and most readers of The Tale about his new book and tea — and we are delighted of Tea will be surprised to discover that the oldest to share his answers with our readers. Muiderkring tea cultures are not what they expect. In Asia, there Muiderkring was an informal circle uning are several ancient lexical roots denong tea, and arsts and sciensts of the “Dutch Golden Dear Professor van Driem, thank you for agreeing some of these oldest words for tea originally also Age”. The members of the circle met regularly to answer our quesons. If we may, let us start not denoted other herbs. All the quesons you asked at the Castle of Muiden (owned by the poet with history, but with stories. For many tea just now have detailed answers, but no short Pieter Corneliszoon Hoo) and conducted specialists, any informaon about tea (descripon answers. Genuine tea people will want to know the literary and musical soirees there. In August of of the producon process, results of scienfic detailed answers, and this is the very reason why I 1640, one of the members of Muiderkring research, historical works, etc.) is valuable only wrote The Tale of Tea. wrote a leer in which he called his fellow insofar as it can be turned into an interesng story members of the circle “illustres Te-potores” Is there anything in your book that goes radically for the tea table. Do you yourself tell entertaining orators. However, during the Japanese tea (illustrious tea drinkers), himself — a tea against established ideas about the history of tea? stories at the tea table? Would you recommend ceremony, tea is served in silence. The “tea girls” worshiper, and spoke of tea in the most serving tea in tea pavilions of Bangkok’s old Chinese your book as a collecon of such entertaining Many historical facts may surprise us today. Tea was enthusiasc terms. quarter in bygone days certainly told stories to their stories? originally eaten, not drunk. The first tea drinkers in clients, but most of the tales they told were Muiderkring members acted as a producve Europe were not English or Portuguese. The Boston The history of tea is, of course, brimming with expressed primarily through body language. Some elite, deliberately culvang in the general Tea Party was not called the Boston Tea Party, and stories, but tea servers are not tradionally story tea lovers have heard or read one of many myths populaon a fashion for their favorite things American history schoolbooks generally tellers. It is true that the Dutch literary circle about tea and may spread that narrave further. and habits, including tea, which they pre- misrepresent what the incident was really about. sented as a drink familiar to educated and Muiderkring, whose members first popularized tea The Tale of Tea is steeped in history and makes a The samovar was not invented in Russia. The list progressive people. In fact, they created the in Europe in the first half of the 17th century, point of dispelling such persistent myths because goes on and on. All this is told in The Tale of Tea. first consumer tea culture in Europe. included dazzling playwrights, novelists, poets, and fact is far more fascinang than ficon.

American Specialty Tea Alliance: specialtyteaalliance.org Tea Epicure: teaepicure.com 08 09 issuetwo.2019

.online but about an event that could be designated as “the point of origin” of tea history. What is it: The talk beginning of culvaon of tea plants? The appearance of special tea ware? The start of tea George van Driem is a linguist, professor of histori- trade? The appearance of a special word for tea? cal linguiscs, director of the Linguiscs Instute at What is the starng point of the tea history? masters the University of Bern and author of the recently The beginnings of tea history are concealed in deep published book The Tale of Tea: A Comprehensive anquity. Tea culture emerged as soon as tea was History of Tea from Prehistoric Times to the Present first consumed by humans. Throughout me, tea Muiderkring (J.A. Kruseman, 1852) Day. We asked George van Driem a few quesons Amsterdam Heritage Museums culture has changed, and most readers of The Tale about his new book and tea — and we are delighted of Tea will be surprised to discover that the oldest to share his answers with our readers. Muiderkring tea cultures are not what they expect. In Asia, there Muiderkring was an informal circle uning are several ancient lexical roots denong tea, and arsts and sciensts of the “Dutch Golden Dear Professor van Driem, thank you for agreeing some of these oldest words for tea originally also Age”. The members of the circle met regularly to answer our quesons. If we may, let us start not denoted other herbs. All the quesons you asked at the Castle of Muiden (owned by the poet with history, but with stories. For many tea just now have detailed answers, but no short Pieter Corneliszoon Hoo) and conducted specialists, any informaon about tea (descripon answers. Genuine tea people will want to know the literary and musical soirees there. In August of of the producon process, results of scienfic detailed answers, and this is the very reason why I 1640, one of the members of Muiderkring research, historical works, etc.) is valuable only wrote The Tale of Tea. wrote a leer in which he called his fellow insofar as it can be turned into an interesng story members of the circle “illustres Te-potores” Is there anything in your book that goes radically for the tea table. Do you yourself tell entertaining orators. However, during the Japanese tea (illustrious tea drinkers), himself — a tea against established ideas about the history of tea? stories at the tea table? Would you recommend ceremony, tea is served in silence. The “tea girls” worshiper, and spoke of tea in the most serving tea in tea pavilions of Bangkok’s old Chinese your book as a collecon of such entertaining Many historical facts may surprise us today. Tea was enthusiasc terms. quarter in bygone days certainly told stories to their stories? originally eaten, not drunk. The first tea drinkers in clients, but most of the tales they told were Muiderkring members acted as a producve Europe were not English or Portuguese. The Boston The history of tea is, of course, brimming with expressed primarily through body language. Some elite, deliberately culvang in the general Tea Party was not called the Boston Tea Party, and stories, but tea servers are not tradionally story tea lovers have heard or read one of many myths populaon a fashion for their favorite things American history schoolbooks generally tellers. It is true that the Dutch literary circle about tea and may spread that narrave further. and habits, including tea, which they pre- misrepresent what the incident was really about. sented as a drink familiar to educated and Muiderkring, whose members first popularized tea The Tale of Tea is steeped in history and makes a The samovar was not invented in Russia. The list progressive people. In fact, they created the in Europe in the first half of the 17th century, point of dispelling such persistent myths because goes on and on. All this is told in The Tale of Tea. first consumer tea culture in Europe. included dazzling playwrights, novelists, poets, and fact is far more fascinang than ficon.

American Specialty Tea Alliance: specialtyteaalliance.org Tea Epicure: teaepicure.com 08 09 issuetwo.2019 George van Driem. Three Kilos of Tea History Do you teach anything related to the history of tea?

.online The more I read about tea, the more I realised that many My book has appeared in print just four months of the contradictory stories in print were not based ago, and since then I have been invited to give tea

talk talks in Switzerland, Kathmandu, Edinburgh, on historical fact. Bangkok and Sydney. My next tea talk will be in Holland. Each of the tea talks thus far has been completely unique in theme and substance because The answer to this next queson can go far beyond probing my quesons became, the less she was able

masters every host has wanted a different focus. My the scope of the interview, but perhaps you could to answer them. So she told me to read books. teaching at the University of Bern and my regular briefly describe for us the methods and the guest lectures abroad deal with topics in linguiscs, The more I read about tea, the more I realized that research focus of historical linguiscs. populaon genecs and prehistory. Now people many of the contradictory stories in print were not have begun to invite me to lecture on tea history. As a discipline, historical linguiscs is oen based on historical fact. Consequently, tea became misunderstood. In recent years, some scholars from my life-long passion since childhood. Decades ago, I Is there a place in Switzerland where you like to Historical linguiscs other disciplines with no experse in historical resolved to write a book about tea and began to drink tea? I know there’s quite a decent tea trade Historical linguiscs oen allows you to find linguiscs have managed to get pseudo-scienfic conduct historical research. Because my main in Bern, is there a nice place to have a cup of tea, answers to quesons that at first glance may studies published in otherwise serious journals, research involves the descripon and analysis of too? Or do you prefer to drink tea at home? seem completely non-linguisc. where none of the editors are historical linguists. hitherto undocumented languages as well as The book menons the tea room at Länggass-Tee in historical comparave linguiscs and populaon The fact is that any historically significant During my vising fellowship here at the University prehistory, tea research was always on the back Bern, but I prefer to drink tea at home, in the event leaves traces in the language — and, of Sydney this month, we are holding workshops to burner. For years, I privately conducted research on garden with a friend, student, or colleague, or just working with these traces, a historical linguist combat just such sensaonalist and oen polically tea history, paently and methodically. by myself. can reconstruct the development of a certain movated poppycock. I welcome any truly phenomenon or a whole culture. Based on Is there a tea tradion among academics in interested person to come to the University of Bern Do you have favorite tea/teas? What method of linguisc evidence and populaon genecs, Switzerland? Do you oen drink tea at work? and complete their studies in historical linguiscs brewing do you prefer? George van Driem concluded that the ancient with us in beauful Switzerland. My own personal preference is perhaps strongest At the Linguiscs Instute at the University of Bern, Miao-Yao people and the Austro-Asians were most likely the inventors of rice farming. Have you always been interested in tea or did your for matcha, white teas, gyokuro, lóngjǐng, the administrave personnel take a regular morning tea or coffee break together, but the professors and interest arise as you worked in tea-growing bìluóchūn, fine oolongs and some fragrant George van Driem works a lot in the Hima- regions? Has your work influenced your tea tastes? Darjeeling and Nepal teas. But I love many other research scholars work all day without taking any layas, so crossing paths with tea was inevita- teas too. Each tea has its own method of brewing, breaks. Many do enjoy drinking tea but sip their tea ble for him. But for this inevitable encounter My interest in tea arose during my childhood when I and there are known variaons in these brewing while working. Swiss people evidently really enjoy to turn into a large-scale scienfic work, it took a liking to tea and asked my mother to explain techniques that are familiar to well-pracced tea working, and so as a flying Dutchman I fit in quite took years of effort and a profound personal the difference between Indian tea and the Chinese cognoscen. well. interest in tea and tea culture. jasmine tea that we were drinking. The more

10 11 issuetwo.2019 George van Driem. Three Kilos of Tea History Do you teach anything related to the history of tea?

10 11 George van Driem. Three Kilos of Tea History Vin Jaune of Jura

.online The Tale of Tea has been wrien to be understood and enjoyed by any and all educated readers, but the book is talk sll a scholarly work. The Tale of Tea weighs 2.865 kg. masters

George van Driem. The Tale of Tea. A Comprehensive History of Tea from Prehistoric Times to the Present Day. 904 pages

Has the topic of tea been exhausted for you? Or At the same me, some people have asked me to will you connue to conduct research in this area? write a lighter version of the enre history of tea. The Tale of Tea has been wrien to be understood I have already begun wring a second book on tea and enjoyed by any and all educated readers, but that addresses lingering quesons and some of the the book is sll a scholarly work. The Tale of Tea remaining unresolved mysteries in tea history. The weighs 2.865 kg. A lighter version would not only historical research for this second book is already weigh less but could also be lighter in style. I have well underway, but I am in no great rush. become amenable to this idea.

12 George van Driem. Three Kilos of Tea History Vin Jaune of Jura

.online The Tale of Tea has been wrien to be understood and enjoyed by any and all educated readers, but the book is talk sll a scholarly work. The Tale of Tea weighs 2.865 kg. masters

George van Driem. The Tale of Tea. A Comprehensive History of Tea from Prehistoric Times to the Present Day. 904 pages

12 Vin Jaune of Jura Château-Chalon Olga Nikandrova & Denis Shumakov’s Yellow Wine Immersion .online talk

Vin Jaune (French for “yellow wine”) is a dry wine Climate in Jura is semi-connental with relavely made from the Savagnin grape variety under four cold winter, warm summer, 1800-1900 hours of masters AOCs in the French Jura region. Vin jaune is aged sunshine and 1000-1500 mm precipitaon annually under a film of yeast (voile), and it is this aging type (and this is quite a lot). Average annual temperature (biological aging is the special term), combined with — about 12°C. Wind is mostly from the South and a rather high price, that makes vin jaune a rare Southwest, less oen — from the North. Soils — specialty, not very well known outside of the marl and limestone. On the whole, grape vines like professional wine community. it there, but, of course, some distressing climate events do happen: heavy rains during flowering, As for us, besides the wonderful taste and techno- frost and summer hail. logical interest, yellow wine is aracve because of There are four AOCs located within the region: its informaonal compactness — a small magazine Château-Chalon, Arbois, l’Etoile and Côtes du Jura. arcle is enough, at least theorecally, to get The Arbois AOC is the largest in Jura and the first of acquainted with it. France’s AOCs, registered in 1936 (several AOCs were actually registered at that me, but in So, first things first. Jura is an administrave region alphabecal order Arbois was listed first, which in eastern France, close to Burgundy and allows it to be formally considered the first). And Switzerland (Switzerland — to the east, Burgundy — the town of Arbois is the wine capital of the Jura to the south). Jura is famous for the Jura mountains region (the administrave capital of the region is (with dinosaurs’ footprints and other things that Besançon). Three AOCs (Arbois, l’Etoile and Côtes gave a whole period of the Mesozoic Era the name du Jura) produce vin jaune along with other types of of this region and/or its mountains), wonderful wine. But only vin jaune can be labeled as AOC cheese (Comté, Morbier, etc) and vin jaune. The Château-Chalon, and its producon in Château- laer, of course, is not the only Jurassic wine — no Chalon is regulated most strictly — up to skipping more than 400-450 thousand boles of vin jaune wine releases in bad years. If the territory included are produced yearly, while the total annual in the AOC Château-Chalon (Château-Chalon itself producon of wine in Jura is 10-12 million boles. and several villages in the vicinity) produces some But it is vin jaune that is the hallmark of the region. other or not-so-good wine, that wine is marketed as

Photo Credit: Eugene Murtola 14 Vin Jaune of Jura Château-Chalon Olga Nikandrova & Denis Shumakov’s Yellow Wine Immersion .online talk

Photo Credit: Eugene Murtola 14 Olga Nikandrova & Denis Shumakov. Vin Jaune of Jura Vin Jaune Ageing Côtes du Jura. Naturally, vin jaune from Château- harvest. Most oen, the wine is poured into barrels .online Chalon is considered to be the best. for storage in spring or summer of the year following the harvest (thus, the wine rests for at Film of yeast talk Under the requirements of the appellaon, vin least several months). jaune (besides its territorial binding) is produced (voile) according to the following rules: Vin jaune is aged in 228-liter oak barrels, where previously a different wine has been aged (new 1. Grape variety — Savagnin. This grape has been masters barrels would impart too much of oak to the wine). known in Jura since the 13-14th centuries and has Barrels can be filled either completely or 8-10 liters always been used for the producon of vin jaune. under-capacity — it’s up to the winemakers to Genecally, Jurassic Savagnin is idencal to decide, and they take into consideraon the Traminer from Tyrol. Durable thick-skinned berries, temperature in the room where barrels are kept. As late ripening, high acidity, resistance to tradional a rule, the warmer the temperature, the fuller the grape diseases and characterisc citrus notes in the barrels. Barrels are set on special supports so that aroma made Savagnin a very popular grape in Jura they do not touch each other. They are closed with — more than 20% of the Jura vineyards are plugs, but only to keep foreign maer from geng occupied by this variety. By the way, there are into the wine, not for sealing the wine. several variants of Savagnin (S. Vert, S. Jaune, S. Muscaté and so on) and, of course, not only vin A film, or veil, of yeasts forms on the surface of the jaune is made from this grape. wine within several weeks or a month and can develop either naturally or with the help of Savagnin intended for the producon of vin jaune is inoculated (pure cultured) yeasts. The veil of yeasts harvested late, but not too late — botrizaon is on vin jaune consists of different forms of rarely allowed. First, dry white wine is made from Sacharomices (as does the flor on sherries) — but this grape, then it is fermented in stainless steel their exact species and quantave composion is tanks (usually) or in oak barrels (less oen). Opmal different from the sherry one and, of course, varies characteriscs of the wine intended for further depending on the season and storage condions. maturaon are 13% abv and relavely high acidity There are no standardized condions for storing the (pH 3,0-3,1). Before being poured into barrels for wine and for the veil formaon in Jura. Barrels may aging, the wine must rest and give off excess carbon be kept in cellars with more-or-less even dioxide. temperature, or in acs with significant 2. Vin jaune should spend at least five years under a temperature fluctuaons. In any case, the room for film of yeast in the barrel and should be boled not storing the wine must be well venlated at a low earlier than in December six full years following the humidity.

16 Olga Nikandrova & Denis Shumakov. Vin Jaune of Jura Vin Jaune Ageing Côtes du Jura. Naturally, vin jaune from Château- harvest. Most oen, the wine is poured into barrels .online Chalon is considered to be the best. for storage in spring or summer of the year following the harvest (thus, the wine rests for at Film of yeast talk Under the requirements of the appellaon, vin least several months). jaune (besides its territorial binding) is produced (voile) according to the following rules: Vin jaune is aged in 228-liter oak barrels, where previously a different wine has been aged (new 1. Grape variety — Savagnin. This grape has been masters barrels would impart too much of oak to the wine). known in Jura since the 13-14th centuries and has Barrels can be filled either completely or 8-10 liters always been used for the producon of vin jaune. under-capacity — it’s up to the winemakers to Genecally, Jurassic Savagnin is idencal to decide, and they take into consideraon the Traminer from Tyrol. Durable thick-skinned berries, temperature in the room where barrels are kept. As late ripening, high acidity, resistance to tradional a rule, the warmer the temperature, the fuller the grape diseases and characterisc citrus notes in the barrels. Barrels are set on special supports so that aroma made Savagnin a very popular grape in Jura they do not touch each other. They are closed with — more than 20% of the Jura vineyards are plugs, but only to keep foreign maer from geng occupied by this variety. By the way, there are into the wine, not for sealing the wine. several variants of Savagnin (S. Vert, S. Jaune, S. Muscaté and so on) and, of course, not only vin A film, or veil, of yeasts forms on the surface of the jaune is made from this grape. wine within several weeks or a month and can develop either naturally or with the help of Savagnin intended for the producon of vin jaune is inoculated (pure cultured) yeasts. The veil of yeasts harvested late, but not too late — botrizaon is on vin jaune consists of different forms of rarely allowed. First, dry white wine is made from Sacharomices (as does the flor on sherries) — but this grape, then it is fermented in stainless steel their exact species and quantave composion is tanks (usually) or in oak barrels (less oen). Opmal different from the sherry one and, of course, varies characteriscs of the wine intended for further depending on the season and storage condions. maturaon are 13% abv and relavely high acidity There are no standardized condions for storing the (pH 3,0-3,1). Before being poured into barrels for wine and for the veil formaon in Jura. Barrels may aging, the wine must rest and give off excess carbon be kept in cellars with more-or-less even dioxide. temperature, or in acs with significant 2. Vin jaune should spend at least five years under a temperature fluctuaons. In any case, the room for film of yeast in the barrel and should be boled not storing the wine must be well venlated at a low earlier than in December six full years following the humidity.

16 Olga Nikandrova & Denis Shumakov. Vin Jaune of Jura Clavelins Just as the sherry flor, the veil of yeasts protects the The Clavelin’s capacity is 650 ml, and it is filled with .online wine from oxidaon and gives its taste and aroma 620 ml of wine, which is exactly the amount le some specific characteriscs, which are mostly aer 1 liter of wine has been aged for six years. The talk brought about by aldehydes generated by the angel’s share, Jura-vin-jaune-style. Somemes vin yeasts. jaune can be boled in 375 ml boles. Officially, such boles are desned for sale outside of France, The quality of vin jaune is controlled by Société de but in pracce they can be easily obtained within

masters Viculture du Jura; its experts examine the acidity Arbois itself. of the wine and the changes in aldehydes content during the first years of aging. Based on the results 4. Vin jaune shouldn’t go on sale earlier than of these examinaons, some barrels can be January 1 of the seventh year aer the harvest. So, withdrawn from the vin jaune producon. In in pracce, this means that it can appear in stores addion, the taste and aroma characteriscs of the almost right aer boling. Vin jaune connues to wine are evaluated prior to boling. develop in the bole, and some experts advise drinking it two years aer the boling. And boling Aer five years of aging under a veil of yeasts, vin of vin jaune is associated with an event whose jaune is a dry wine of yellow (what a surprise) color, menon would be a good transion from formal 13.5-15% abv, with 350-600 mg of acetaldehyde per rules to informal impressions. liter, a specific flavor with characterisc notes of nuts and spices (a pleasant consequence of long First weekend of February each year is a holiday in aging) and fresh taste with vivid and characterisc Arbois called Percée du Vin Jaune. It includes crisp finish (a no less pleasant consequence of the tasngs, aucons, fancy-dress parades, and, of Savagnin character). In this state, the wine is course, a solemn opening of a vin jaune barrel, and boled. a no-less-solemn (so far as the pressure of the wine allows) filling of the first bole of the year (well, not 3. Vin jaune is boled in containers of special shape actually the first, of course — but it’s an official and volume. They are called Clavelin and it’s easier holiday, you know...). to show their shape (see picture), than to describe it. Such boles were used for vin jaune as early as Certainly, Percée du Vin Jaune is the main event in the 18th century, and in 1914 one abbot ordered a Arbois. But the town (or a large village — it has batch of boles of this type with his name on them. about 3500 inhabitants) is a great desnaon even Clavelin Not-a-Clavelin Clavelin And his name was Clavelin — this gave the name to on a regular day. There are lots of wine shops. The the whole type of boles. Buy the way, the thing is, most Jura wine is sold not simply on the personalized batch was only 30 boles — a small domesc market but on a very domesc market – in price for going down in history. Jura itself. Including the shops located in Arbois,

18 Olga Nikandrova & Denis Shumakov. Vin Jaune of Jura Clavelins Just as the sherry flor, the veil of yeasts protects the The Clavelin’s capacity is 650 ml, and it is filled with .online wine from oxidaon and gives its taste and aroma 620 ml of wine, which is exactly the amount le some specific characteriscs, which are mostly aer 1 liter of wine has been aged for six years. The talk brought about by aldehydes generated by the angel’s share, Jura-vin-jaune-style. Somemes vin yeasts. jaune can be boled in 375 ml boles. Officially, such boles are desned for sale outside of France, The quality of vin jaune is controlled by Société de but in pracce they can be easily obtained within masters Viculture du Jura; its experts examine the acidity Arbois itself. of the wine and the changes in aldehydes content during the first years of aging. Based on the results 4. Vin jaune shouldn’t go on sale earlier than of these examinaons, some barrels can be January 1 of the seventh year aer the harvest. So, withdrawn from the vin jaune producon. In in pracce, this means that it can appear in stores addion, the taste and aroma characteriscs of the almost right aer boling. Vin jaune connues to wine are evaluated prior to boling. develop in the bole, and some experts advise drinking it two years aer the boling. And boling Aer five years of aging under a veil of yeasts, vin of vin jaune is associated with an event whose jaune is a dry wine of yellow (what a surprise) color, menon would be a good transion from formal 13.5-15% abv, with 350-600 mg of acetaldehyde per rules to informal impressions. liter, a specific flavor with characterisc notes of nuts and spices (a pleasant consequence of long First weekend of February each year is a holiday in aging) and fresh taste with vivid and characterisc Arbois called Percée du Vin Jaune. It includes crisp finish (a no less pleasant consequence of the tasngs, aucons, fancy-dress parades, and, of Savagnin character). In this state, the wine is course, a solemn opening of a vin jaune barrel, and boled. a no-less-solemn (so far as the pressure of the wine allows) filling of the first bole of the year (well, not 3. Vin jaune is boled in containers of special shape actually the first, of course — but it’s an official and volume. They are called Clavelin and it’s easier holiday, you know...). to show their shape (see picture), than to describe it. Such boles were used for vin jaune as early as Certainly, Percée du Vin Jaune is the main event in the 18th century, and in 1914 one abbot ordered a Arbois. But the town (or a large village — it has batch of boles of this type with his name on them. about 3500 inhabitants) is a great desnaon even Clavelin Not-a-Clavelin Clavelin And his name was Clavelin — this gave the name to on a regular day. There are lots of wine shops. The the whole type of boles. Buy the way, the thing is, most Jura wine is sold not simply on the personalized batch was only 30 boles — a small domesc market but on a very domesc market – in price for going down in history. Jura itself. Including the shops located in Arbois,

18 Olga Nikandrova & Denis Shumakov. Vin Jaune of Jura Vin Jaune of Jura each of which sells wine by a single producer only. Vin jaune is a very tasty wine, or rather very tasty .online And since there are many wineries in Jura, there are wines, because there are many variees and they many single-brand wine shops as well. It is a great are all disnct. Different terroirs, different vintages, talk pleasure — although the absence of a regional different wineries — and a very wide flavor enoteca strikes one as surprising at first. However, spectrum, at the heart of which there’s always a there’s a Jura Vine and Wine Museum that gives you fresh, slightly sour note (most oen close to apple), a more-or-less complete picture of the region. spices, hints of vanilla, and perfect gastronomical

masters properes. Vin jaune is best served at room There are excellent local cheeses in Arbois (as temperature, although playing around with cooling everywhere else in France, for that maer). A glass the wine can also be interesng. of vin jaune and a piece of Comté (with or without rind, it’s a maer of opinion) go miraculously well When creang tea-based gastronomic composions together. They also bake delicious bread there, do with vin jaune there is a temptaon to pair tea with wonders with meat, make vinegar (including the biologically aged sherry wine (Fino or Manzanilla + kind made from vin jaune) and rent out inexpensive cold-brew white tea + light fruit snack). However, apartments with very good kitchens. In short, there despite the similarity of some of the technological are plenty of fun things in Arbois, enough for at aspects of making the sherry wine and vin jaune, least a week’s stay, and these things are also very the drinks are very different in acidity. There is no tasty. acidity in sherry, whereas yellow wine retains its fruity and fresh acidity to the full. This is why pairing Arbois and vin jaune played an important role in the tea with yellow wines is as difficult as pairing it with life and work of Louis Pasteur — he went to college dry white wines. in Arbois and later devoted a prominent part of his studies to vin jaune in general and to voile yeasts in The most successful composion we have tried so parcular. Today, there’s a statue of Pasteur in far was the following (ingredients are listed in the Arbois, and, he is an integral part of the local lore. tasng order): vin jaune — cheese (aged Comté) — black tea brewed with crushed nuts (cashews + Also, in the history of Arbois, and of the enre almonds + hazelnuts + cassia or walnuts + Franche-Comté, there was a period of Spanish rule cinnamon). Let the tea cool down a lile so as not — hence, the possibility of Spanish influence on the to aggravate alcoholic notes in wine; also, it is beer Jura wine culture is oen menoned. Somemes to use delicate black teas — Russian, Georgian, the Savagnin grape variety itself is said to be of Iranian, or Azerbaijani. Spanish origin. We cannot say anything definite on this subject and so will content ourselves with menoning the possibility…

20 Olga Nikandrova & Denis Shumakov. Vin Jaune of Jura Vin Jaune of Jura each of which sells wine by a single producer only. Vin jaune is a very tasty wine, or rather very tasty .online And since there are many wineries in Jura, there are wines, because there are many variees and they many single-brand wine shops as well. It is a great are all disnct. Different terroirs, different vintages, talk pleasure — although the absence of a regional different wineries — and a very wide flavor enoteca strikes one as surprising at first. However, spectrum, at the heart of which there’s always a there’s a Jura Vine and Wine Museum that gives you fresh, slightly sour note (most oen close to apple), a more-or-less complete picture of the region. spices, hints of vanilla, and perfect gastronomical masters properes. Vin jaune is best served at room There are excellent local cheeses in Arbois (as temperature, although playing around with cooling everywhere else in France, for that maer). A glass the wine can also be interesng. of vin jaune and a piece of Comté (with or without rind, it’s a maer of opinion) go miraculously well When creang tea-based gastronomic composions together. They also bake delicious bread there, do with vin jaune there is a temptaon to pair tea with wonders with meat, make vinegar (including the biologically aged sherry wine (Fino or Manzanilla + kind made from vin jaune) and rent out inexpensive cold-brew white tea + light fruit snack). However, apartments with very good kitchens. In short, there despite the similarity of some of the technological are plenty of fun things in Arbois, enough for at aspects of making the sherry wine and vin jaune, least a week’s stay, and these things are also very the drinks are very different in acidity. There is no tasty. acidity in sherry, whereas yellow wine retains its fruity and fresh acidity to the full. This is why pairing Arbois and vin jaune played an important role in the tea with yellow wines is as difficult as pairing it with life and work of Louis Pasteur — he went to college dry white wines. in Arbois and later devoted a prominent part of his studies to vin jaune in general and to voile yeasts in The most successful composion we have tried so parcular. Today, there’s a statue of Pasteur in far was the following (ingredients are listed in the Arbois, and, he is an integral part of the local lore. tasng order): vin jaune — cheese (aged Comté) — black tea brewed with crushed nuts (cashews + Also, in the history of Arbois, and of the enre almonds + hazelnuts + cassia or walnuts + Franche-Comté, there was a period of Spanish rule cinnamon). Let the tea cool down a lile so as not — hence, the possibility of Spanish influence on the to aggravate alcoholic notes in wine; also, it is beer Jura wine culture is oen menoned. Somemes to use delicate black teas — Russian, Georgian, the Savagnin grape variety itself is said to be of Iranian, or Azerbaijani. Spanish origin. We cannot say anything definite on this subject and so will content ourselves with menoning the possibility…

20 invesgate peslence, biological condions and soil, comfortable lives. Tea plants also help cover bare Vietnamese Tea: and founded a nursery for tea plants. There were land and hills, as well as protect the environment. three producon areas, the North (the largest and As of 2013, there were approximately 455 small- .online Development the oldest), the Centre and the South. The French scale tea producon units throughout the country culvated only black tea and sold it primarily to and 400,000 tea-making households. Black tea talk Dynamics France. (both Orthodox and CTC) constutes 57 percent of Vietnam Tea Associaon (VITAS) the total producon; green tea (including light Aer Vietnam gained independence from France in oolong teas) makes up 42 percent, and 10 percent 46 Tang Bat Ho, Hanoi, Vietnam 1945, between 1945 and 1951 tea-growing areas of these teas are scented tea.

masters +84 24 3625 0908 became revoluonary bases. Tea producon was www.vitas.org.vn halted during this period and did not begin again Export tea accounts for more than 80 percent of the [email protected] unl 1955 when the North was enrely liberated. At total output. In recent years, Vietnam’s annual tea that me many tea factories were built with the aid export surpassed 140,000 tonnes and products of Russian technology. Aer 1959, tea collecves marked as ‘Vietnamese Tea’ are sold in 90 countries and several state-run factories were built. Yet, from around the world. Long-term export countries 1957 to 1975, tea producon did not improve much include Russia, China, Taiwan, Japan, the United because of war. During the war with the United Kingdom, France, India, Sri Lanka, Indonesia, Tea is big business in Vietnam, but its history is a States, only the North really grew tea; during this Malaysia, Iraq, Iran, Pakistan and Turkey. long and complicated one. With the average annual period, tea producon expanded to 65,000 hectares output of 180,000 metric tonnes, Vietnam now yielding 35,000 tonnes of dried tea, 18,000 of which To regulate the use of chemicals in ferlizers and ranks sixth in global tea producon (behind China, was exported. In 1975, aer the war ended and pescides, in 2016, the Ministry of Agriculture and India, Kenya, Sri Lanka and Turkey, and ahead of Vietnam was united again, more provinces started Rural Development (the highest-level public depart- Indonesia and Japan), according to Internaonal Tea to grow tea. More black tea was needed for the ment in the agriculture sector in Vietnam) issued a Commiee stascs. Vietnam is considered one of Russian market. list of substances that can be used on common the “cradles” of the world’s tea plants. In 1960, at a crops, including tea. Any substance not included on conference in Paris, France, archaeologists revealed Since Vietnam’s economic liberalizaon, there has the list is banned. the results of a study conducted in a cave in Con been intense focus on growing the tea industry. Mong on Dong Son culture in Hoa Binh and Thanh Today, tea plantaons cover more than 130,000 Several tea companies such as Moc Chau Tea Hoa. Findings showed that the fossilized tea seeds hectares. There are 35 provinces and cies involved Company and Phu Da Tea Company, which produce discovered in that cave were 10,000 years old. in the tea industry. The Vietnamese government’s commodity teas, are working diligently creang a agricultural zoning plans through 2020 are good reputaon for Vietnamese tea. When the French invaded Vietnam in the late commied to further expanding the country’s tea Moc Chau Tea Company 1850s, they introduced the ﬁrst Assam tea clone, industry. Tea plants contribute substanally to said Ms Nguyen thi Anh Hong, vice chairwoman of poverty reducon in Vietnam. Even tea growers The Moc Chau Tea Company, in Son La Province, the Hanoi-based VITAS. While occupying Vietnam, harvesng from the ancient wild tea trees (primarily was established in 1957. The land was previously a the French established research instutes to study in the northern mountainous areas) can lead camp occupied by the Vietnamese army and was the quality of Vietnamese tea, laboratories to

Based on the arcle by Vanessa L Facenda Tea & Coﬀee Trade Journal, November 2019 22 invesgate peslence, biological condions and soil, comfortable lives. Tea plants also help cover bare Vietnamese Tea: and founded a nursery for tea plants. There were land and hills, as well as protect the environment. three producon areas, the North (the largest and As of 2013, there were approximately 455 small- .online Development the oldest), the Centre and the South. The French scale tea producon units throughout the country culvated only black tea and sold it primarily to and 400,000 tea-making households. Black tea talk Dynamics France. (both Orthodox and CTC) constutes 57 percent of Vietnam Tea Associaon (VITAS) the total producon; green tea (including light Aer Vietnam gained independence from France in oolong teas) makes up 42 percent, and 10 percent 46 Tang Bat Ho, Hanoi, Vietnam 1945, between 1945 and 1951 tea-growing areas of these teas are scented tea.

Based on the arcle by Vanessa L Facenda Tea & Coﬀee Trade Journal, November 2019 22 Vietnamese Tea: Development Dynamics 1975 2010 2012 2020

given to the company by the government. Moc Phu Da Tea Company .online 65,000 ha tea plantaons 104,000 ha 130,000 ha Chau began planng tea trees in 1958 and opened a 35,000 mt tea producon 147,000 mt 200,000 mt factory. A new factory was built in 1978. Today, the While Moc Chau produces green tea, Phu Da Tea

talk 18,000 mt tea export 110,000 mt 145,000 mt company owns 593 hectares of tea plantaons. Company in the Phu Tho province is primarily a black tea producer. Iraq is its main export country, CTC black tea was the main product in the begin- but it also sells to China and India. Phu Da Tea ning, but Moc Chau switched completely to green Company was established in 1958. It was state- Phu Da has been working hard to improve its demand for green tea — and serve consumers in

masters tea in 2002, said Mr Nguyen Van Tam, the com- owned as were the other three tea factories Phu Da standards and quality. “We passed ISO cerficaon our domesc market, who also prefer green tea.” pany’s vice director. Before 2002, the primary eventually merged with before becoming a private in 2014 and became Rainforest Alliance cerfied in markets were Iraq and Russia. Now, the leading company in 2000. Now, 51 percent of Phu Da is 2017,” said Long. “With these cerficaons, we With new export market opportunies, as well as markets are Afghanistan, Pakistan, the Czech owned by an Iraqi company and the other 49 have interest from new trading partners in new connued domesc potenal, Vietnam’s tea Republic, Uzbekistan, and France. While most percent is owned by the GTN Group of Vietnam, markets.” Phu Da is also beginning to test the green industry has strong reasons to stay focused on customers are private label brands, some are large which purchased the shares from the government tea market. “We want to be able to export to China, upgrading its tea quality, standards and processing companies like Unilever. “We switched to green tea of Vietnam. “We’re much more efficient as a private Taiwan and Pakistan — all of which have high methods. because our two main markets — Afghanistan and company. We can make our own decisions and react Pakistan — prefer green tea,” said Van Tam, nong quicker,” said Mr Nguyen Chau Long, director of the that they worked with Japanese tea experts Phu Son factory, one of Phu Da’s factories. “When between 1997-2001 to learn about farming green we were state-owned, we were less efficient tea. because we moved slower, it took a long me to make decisions and there was less producon.” He Moc Chau’s annual volume of fresh tea leaves is added that as a private company, Phu Da has been 10,000-12,000 mt, a quarter of which is exported to able to invest in more producon lines. “That would Afghanistan and Pakistan. There are six harvesng have been too difficult to do when we were state- seasons, 20 days apart from each other. Moc Chau is owned.” Today, Phu Da Tea Company owns 1,500 one of the few companies in Vietnam using mecha- hectares of plantaons, of which approximately nized harvesng. 1,460 are tea. Phu Da also operates four factories “Our goal is to penetrate the European market,” (one was built in 1958, the other in the 1970s, a said Mr Vu Hong Khanh, Moc Chau’s vice director of third in 1989 and the fourth in 2000) — each one agricultural pracces. “We’ve been improving our has a specialty, but all use the same processing methods — and one blending center. There are five processing methods since 2017 in order to obtain Vietnam Tea Associaon Rainforest Alliance cerficaon, which we now to six harvesng seasons, with each season lasng have. We are also working to modernize our facili- one to two days. Phu Da must wait 40-45 days es.” between harvests because black tea takes longer to VITAS Since 1988 fully ripen. www.vitas.org.vn

24 Vietnamese Tea: Development Dynamics 1975 2010 2012 2020 given to the company by the government. Moc Phu Da Tea Company .online 65,000 ha tea plantaons 104,000 ha 130,000 ha Chau began planng tea trees in 1958 and opened a 35,000 mt tea producon 147,000 mt 200,000 mt factory. A new factory was built in 1978. Today, the While Moc Chau produces green tea, Phu Da Tea talk 18,000 mt tea export 110,000 mt 145,000 mt company owns 593 hectares of tea plantaons. Company in the Phu Tho province is primarily a black tea producer. Iraq is its main export country, CTC black tea was the main product in the begin- but it also sells to China and India. Phu Da Tea ning, but Moc Chau switched completely to green Company was established in 1958. It was state- Phu Da has been working hard to improve its demand for green tea — and serve consumers in

24 serving it to the client. I also work at various events, Real Tea Sommelier from weddings to oﬃcial recepons. The museum Murat Kornaev’s 100 cups a day has included me in the educaonal programme and I give 40-45 minute classes to children — I tell them about tea in general, tea in Japan and tea culture in the broadest sense.

Tea sommeliers, i.e. people who are responsible for Could you describe the work roune in detail? everything connected with tea at a hotel, cafe or What tasks and how oen do you solve? restaurant, are custom-made specialists. Each tea The FOH (front-of-house) work. My maximum per sommelier is a unique phenomenon strongly associ- shi is about 100 tea orders. We work from 10 a.m. ated with a parcular HoReCa establishment and to 6 p.m., which means about 5 minutes on average ed to specific condions, rather than a representa- per order. Taking into account the fact that when ve of the profession with a standardized set of fulfilling an order, I need to find the tea, prepare competencies, established guild ethics and other teapots and bowls, boil water and brew the tea, aributes of an advanced trade. plus I also wash teapots aer they come back from We would like to introduce you to one of the the client, — this means the day is very intense. Of variants of tea sommelier’s work on the example of course, it doesn’t happen every day, but on week- Murat Kornaev, winner of TMCI 2016 in the Tea ends it is quite oen the case. Pairing category. In fact, Murat calls himself a Sourcing tea. Since I am trying to create as wide a chaikhana-man (chaikhana — a tea room in Central tea menu as possible, with different types of Asia) — which is eclecc but elegant for a specialist primarily Japanese teas, I cannot have only one working with tea in a Japanese cafe in Krakow... supplier. I have to keep an eye on the stock to order tea on me. The easiest thing to do would be to Murat, what has changed in your career since limit oneself to the teas available in the EU, but it’s winning TMCI in Seoul and what are you doing not always good value for money and their quality is with tea now? somemes simply poor. This is why we have to I tried to build my professional life around tea a two import teas and do customs clearance twice or or three years before the championship. But the thrice a year. Somemes, to get some special teas, phrase “I’ve been fond of tea for over 20 years” you have to go on a tea hunt for them and bring didn’t open the door. The phrase “I won TMC in them home in your backpack. The hardest case is Korea” was more useful. Soon aer the champion- when the supplier is out of some tea and you need ship, I started working in a cafe at Mangha Museum to urgently look for a replacement. of Japanese Art and Technology in Krakow. I took Staff training. It is a very important point, because over all tea issues in the café — from purchasing to otherwise it would be impossible to go on vacaon

Photo Credit: Magda Halon serving it to the client. I also work at various events, Real Tea Sommelier from weddings to oﬃcial recepons. The museum Murat Kornaev’s 100 cups a day has included me in the educaonal programme and I give 40-45 minute classes to children — I tell them about tea in general, tea in Japan and tea culture in the broadest sense.

Photo Credit: Magda Halon issuetwo.2019 at all. The most difficult thing in training is to find someone who will pay aenon to the process. Since we don’t work in a tea shop, the staff is more focused on typical work at the bar. Working at events. It is oen a challenge to ego (somemes you have to communicate with a drunk who wants to “tea to sober up”), although somemes, on the opposite, this work movates, makes you look for non-standard soluons. How many teas do you have on the tea menu? We have 35 teas on the menu, but of course I always have something interesng in reserve in case my tea loving friends come by or the Consul General of Japan arrives. And what part of the guests are the regulars? It’s difficult to tell the exact number… But there are regulars, and it seems to me that tea plays an important role in this case. We just great each other with some guests, there are those with whom it’s nice to talk and learn their opinion about tea; when they come, I want to surprise them with something new and fresh. For example, there’s an elderly couple who come rather oen. They eat and they drink tea. They came here the other day, I brought them tea, and they said: “You were gone when we came last me, and the tea was no longer the same”. It’s nice to hear, of course, even though I understand that it’s more in their heads. And there are guests who start buying loose leaf tea to brew at home, asking for advice on how to brew. Do these retail sales of tea make sense in terms of economy, or is it just a nice bonus for guests?

29 issuetwo.2019 at all. The most difficult thing in training is to find someone who will pay aenon to the process. Since we don’t work in a tea shop, the staff is more focused on typical work at the bar. Working at events. It is oen a challenge to ego (somemes you have to communicate with a drunk who wants to “tea to sober up”), although somemes, on the opposite, this work movates, makes you look for non-standard soluons. How many teas do you have on the tea menu? We have 35 teas on the menu, but of course I always have something interesng in reserve in case my tea loving friends come by or the Consul General of Japan arrives. And what part of the guests are the regulars? It’s difficult to tell the exact number… But there are regulars, and it seems to me that tea plays an important role in this case. We just great each other with some guests, there are those with whom it’s nice to talk and learn their opinion about tea; when they come, I want to surprise them with something new and fresh. For example, there’s an elderly couple who come rather oen. They eat and they drink tea. They came here the other day, I brought them tea, and they said: “You were gone when we came last me, and the tea was no longer the same”. It’s nice to hear, of course, even though I understand that it’s more in their heads. And there are guests who start buying loose leaf tea to brew at home, asking for advice on how to brew. Do these retail sales of tea make sense in terms of economy, or is it just a nice bonus for guests?

29 Murat Kornaev. Real Tea Sommelier

masters establishments. expensive — 20 zlotys (gyokuro or yamabuki). Our prices are quite moderate, taking into account that So, you have three jobs: sommelier, retail and the volume of the teapot is 350-400 ml and the supplies to HoReCa, right? Does your salary in the poron of brewing is 5 grams. cafe depend on the number of tea orders? Is there alcohol and coffee in the cafe? Yes, it does. Since I sell tea to the cafe, I have an agreed margin on the supplied tea. The faster the There’s coffee. And it’s good. The coffee machine is tea stock turns, the more tea I supply to the café. good and the barista is skillful. But coffee loses out And, yes, I have three businesses. to tea on sales. There’s also alcohol — beer, wine, choya, sake. What’s the kitchen at the café and what percentage of guests order tea? Is the brewing and serving of tea standardized for all variees, or is there a difference? We mainly have a cuisine inspired by simple Japanese food: chicken in teriyaki sauce, miso soup, There’s a difference. Those who have to replace me sushi. But there are also European dishes, especially use a ‘cheatsheet’. They write the temperature and when it comes to breakfast. Approximately one in the infusion me there. With me, when they gain three customers orders tea. experience, they start to do it more intuively. But there aren’t many who can. Two, maybe. What is the tea serving format? Do you actually brew every tea in a parcular I have two teapots for each order — one I use to way? What do you keep track of, the temperature, brew the tea, the other one — to serve the drink to the me? And how long does it take you to select the client. A teapot with tea leaves stays on my the brewing and serving method for each tea? table. If the guest wants a second brew on the same leaves, they return the empty teapot to me; they Whenever we have new tea, I test it and choose the can either come up to me, or pass the teapot brewing method that is opmal from my point of through the waiter. This is free of charge. view — temperature/me/tea to water rao. So that later I can work with it habitually. But if the

30 Murat Kornaev. Real Tea Sommelier

It makes sense to me, because this is one of my What’s the average check at the café and how .online other sources of income, and it is slow but growing. much does it cost to serve tea? Retail sales of tea is my “business” — it’s purely my talk income. In this case, I sell my tea, at my own price, The average check is about 30 zlotys (about 10 through my own sales register and even weighing it USD). The cheapest tea — 6 zlotys, but there is no on my own scales. It is linked to my other tea second brew for it (because there is no point in business — I supply tea to different public catering brewing Earl Grey for the second me), the most masters establishments. expensive — 20 zlotys (gyokuro or yamabuki). Our prices are quite moderate, taking into account that So, you have three jobs: sommelier, retail and the volume of the teapot is 350-400 ml and the supplies to HoReCa, right? Does your salary in the poron of brewing is 5 grams. cafe depend on the number of tea orders? Is there alcohol and coffee in the cafe? Yes, it does. Since I sell tea to the cafe, I have an agreed margin on the supplied tea. The faster the There’s coffee. And it’s good. The coffee machine is tea stock turns, the more tea I supply to the café. good and the barista is skillful. But coffee loses out And, yes, I have three businesses. to tea on sales. There’s also alcohol — beer, wine, choya, sake. What’s the kitchen at the café and what percentage of guests order tea? Is the brewing and serving of tea standardized for all variees, or is there a difference? We mainly have a cuisine inspired by simple Japanese food: chicken in teriyaki sauce, miso soup, There’s a difference. Those who have to replace me sushi. But there are also European dishes, especially use a ‘cheatsheet’. They write the temperature and when it comes to breakfast. Approximately one in the infusion me there. With me, when they gain three customers orders tea. experience, they start to do it more intuively. But there aren’t many who can. Two, maybe. What is the tea serving format? Do you actually brew every tea in a parcular I have two teapots for each order — one I use to way? What do you keep track of, the temperature, brew the tea, the other one — to serve the drink to the me? And how long does it take you to select the client. A teapot with tea leaves stays on my the brewing and serving method for each tea? table. If the guest wants a second brew on the same leaves, they return the empty teapot to me; they Whenever we have new tea, I test it and choose the can either come up to me, or pass the teapot brewing method that is opmal from my point of through the waiter. This is free of charge. view — temperature/me/tea to water rao. So that later I can work with it habitually. But if the

30 Murat Kornaev. Real Tea Sommelier

customer asks for a stronger or weaker brew, I easily herbata z prądem, which can be translated as “tea .online make adjustments. At the same me, it is necessary with electricity” or “charged tea”. Actually, the to test every batch of tea. For example, this year’s recipe is very simple — strong alcohol is added to talk Maojian is good if you brew more tea leaves (6-7 the tea. Such tea is usually drunk in winter, when grams) but with cooler water. you need to warm up quickly. That is, you have your own recipe for each tea in As a “charge” I chose Śliwowica łącka (śliwowica

masters your head. Developing and updang these recipes from the region of Łącko) — it is a well-known in is also part of your job, isn’t it? Poland plum brandy. It has an interesng story that begins, according to some sources, back in the 12th Yes, of course it is. century and culminated in 2005 with the inclusion Do your guests prefer drinking their tea with or of this drink on the List of the Tradional Products. without food? Do you offer snacks yourself or is it To make charged tea, I brew Ruby Taiwan tea with a the waiters’ job? vanilla pod in a siphon. Then I added literally a few At first we had a “tea pairing” secon in the tea drops of plum brandy. It is very strong, about 70 menu, then we removed it, it wasn’t in demand. But degrees — and when it comes in contact with hot now we’re going to introduce it again — and we’re tea it immediately evaporates, creang a cloud of trying to come up with something sexy for black tea. plum aroma above the cup for some me, just enough for tasng. And then the interacon of And how does the kitchen react to your ideas? tastes and aromas of tea begins. Vanilla accentuates The kitchen reacts well, because we are trying to the vanilla flavour note in Ruby Tea, and this flavour, find such tea and food pairs that even a waiter in turn, accentuates the plum alcohol note. could make them quickly. During training, I tell the As an appezer for tea, I ground pistachios and waiters what tea can be recommended with every raisins and made balls from the resulng mixture, parcular dish. which I nagged on skewers together with pieces of Could you please describe your winning tea pair- smoked dried Polish cheese from sheep milk. This ing? Have you ever used it in your work? cheese has a deep creamy smoky taste and very gastronomic salinity — just what you need. Yes, I have. I used Polish cuisine to create it, and I somemes make it at different events. During the tasng, you should first smell the tea, then try the cheese and pistachio-raisin ball, and The tea and food pairing I prepared in Seoul was then take a sip of tea. created based on a well-known Polish recipe—

32 Murat Kornaev. Real Tea Sommelier customer asks for a stronger or weaker brew, I easily herbata z prądem, which can be translated as “tea .online make adjustments. At the same me, it is necessary with electricity” or “charged tea”. Actually, the to test every batch of tea. For example, this year’s recipe is very simple — strong alcohol is added to talk Maojian is good if you brew more tea leaves (6-7 the tea. Such tea is usually drunk in winter, when grams) but with cooler water. you need to warm up quickly. That is, you have your own recipe for each tea in As a “charge” I chose Śliwowica łącka (śliwowica

32 issuetwo.2019

level internaonal compeons. It seems that these watched video bloggers, read arcles, brewed Tea in Classic Sommelier Work tasks are there just because they should be, rather diﬀerent tea variees and tried to memorize their Alexander Rassadkin’s Comment than with an aim to develop the competences main peculiaries. Experience has shown that most

.online needed in the profession. of this knowledge did not come in handy at the contest. But compeons are diﬀerent and if in a Sll, both in training and compeons, more

talk situaon where the main coffee sponsor is emphasis is placed on alcoholic beverages. And in Nespresso, coffee quesons are predictable, then real life condions, sommeliers rarely work with a tea tasks can potenally be a surprise. We’d like to remind you that the etymology of the wide range of coffee or tea and are rarely word “sommelier” does not imply the experse of responsible for serving or purchasing these drinks. Are there any tea quesons that remain unsolved masters this specialist is to be reduced to alcoholic for you, issues in which you really want to get to beverages only. In theory, any sommelier should be One of the main tasks of the sommelier is to select the boom? ready for tea and coffee work. Of course, the reality wine for the dishes ordered by guests. Does the is far from book knowledge — but we wanted to sommelier have similar tasks for tea? In wine, as well as in any other drink, I always try to hear about tea in the work of a classic sommelier — find a way to systemaze and arrange every piece of I do not have exact data. But in today’s world, this knowledge. I love all these charts and tables. I need and addressed our quesons to Alexander kind of classical sommelier Rassadkin, president of the St. Petersburg some kind of coordinate system. “10 Most Famous communicaon/recommendaon hardly occurs in Teas of China” may create that illusion, but the Sommelier Associaon, director of the Enotria St. more than 10% of cases. And that’s what I’m talking Petersburg Wine School, holder of the tle “Best reality is that the worlds of tea and coffee are very about wine. I think for tea and coffee this different. The wine approach doesn’t work here. Sommelier of Russia 2015” and semi-finalist of the percentage goes to less than 1%. It’s not a lack of World Sommelier Compeon (2016, 2019). These drinks depend heavily on storage, preparaon interest, it’s a change in approach. and serving. For a long me, people were taught to focus on Alexander, does the sommelier’s training program In wine, most of the work happens in a parcular tastes and bouquets. Now there is more and more region under the control of a parcular producer. include coffee and tea blocks? And, if so, what interest in ideas, concepts, experiments and new should a sommelier know about tea? This world is easier to study and systemaze. experiences, which changes the role of the Internaonal instuons such as WSET (wine, Not all sommelier schools include blocks on coffee professional. Are there any tea tasks in professional sommelier spirits, sake) or Cicerone (beer), though not ideal, and tea in their program. But we, at the Enotria compeons? If so, what are they? And how do How did you personally prepare for tea quesons but allow to make learning and studying more School in St. Petersburg, allocate one class for each contestants prepare for them? Do answers to these when parcipang in compeons? Or based on convenient, which makes it convincing for both of these topics. In these lectures we try to give basic tasks affect the overall result? what you have already said (less than 1% weight), professionals and amateurs. And the problem of knowledge about the consumpon culture of these this preparaon would be waste of me? learning here simply rests on the lack of proper drinks as well as their origin, variees and Tradionally, sommelier contests have quesons pracce of preparaon and work with the product. preparaon methods. First of all, a sommelier is about tea and coffee, but they take less than 1% of I oen choose a technique of preparaon that is not required to have the right tea or coffee the total weight of tasks. Most oen they are quite correct in terms of taccs and me With tea, everything is different. And if in coffee the recommendaon for the guest and the ability to devoted to some elite expensive coffee or tea consumpon. I try to immerse myself in the system of grading and some coordinates is gradually consult them on the range of tea and coffee offered variees and terminology. The preparaon of these beverage world. If you take tea, for example, in evolving, in tea, it seems to me, it does not move at by the establishment. drinks is not on the task list, even at the highest- addion to reading a couple of books, I have all.

34 35 issuetwo.2019

.online needed in the profession. of this knowledge did not come in handy at the contest. But compeons are different and if in a Sll, both in training and compeons, more talk situaon where the main coffee sponsor is emphasis is placed on alcoholic beverages. And in Nespresso, coffee quesons are predictable, then real life condions, sommeliers rarely work with a tea tasks can potenally be a surprise. We’d like to remind you that the etymology of the wide range of coffee or tea and are rarely word “sommelier” does not imply the experse of responsible for serving or purchasing these drinks. Are there any tea quesons that remain unsolved masters this specialist is to be reduced to alcoholic for you, issues in which you really want to get to beverages only. In theory, any sommelier should be One of the main tasks of the sommelier is to select the boom? ready for tea and coffee work. Of course, the reality wine for the dishes ordered by guests. Does the is far from book knowledge — but we wanted to sommelier have similar tasks for tea? In wine, as well as in any other drink, I always try to hear about tea in the work of a classic sommelier — find a way to systemaze and arrange every piece of I do not have exact data. But in today’s world, this knowledge. I love all these charts and tables. I need and addressed our quesons to Alexander kind of classical sommelier Rassadkin, president of the St. Petersburg some kind of coordinate system. “10 Most Famous communicaon/recommendaon hardly occurs in Teas of China” may create that illusion, but the Sommelier Associaon, director of the Enotria St. more than 10% of cases. And that’s what I’m talking Petersburg Wine School, holder of the tle “Best reality is that the worlds of tea and coffee are very about wine. I think for tea and coffee this different. The wine approach doesn’t work here. Sommelier of Russia 2015” and semi-finalist of the percentage goes to less than 1%. It’s not a lack of World Sommelier Compeon (2016, 2019). These drinks depend heavily on storage, preparaon interest, it’s a change in approach. and serving. For a long me, people were taught to focus on Alexander, does the sommelier’s training program In wine, most of the work happens in a parcular tastes and bouquets. Now there is more and more region under the control of a parcular producer. include coffee and tea blocks? And, if so, what interest in ideas, concepts, experiments and new should a sommelier know about tea? This world is easier to study and systemaze. experiences, which changes the role of the Internaonal instuons such as WSET (wine, Not all sommelier schools include blocks on coffee professional. Are there any tea tasks in professional sommelier spirits, sake) or Cicerone (beer), though not ideal, and tea in their program. But we, at the Enotria compeons? If so, what are they? And how do How did you personally prepare for tea quesons but allow to make learning and studying more School in St. Petersburg, allocate one class for each contestants prepare for them? Do answers to these when parcipang in compeons? Or based on convenient, which makes it convincing for both of these topics. In these lectures we try to give basic tasks affect the overall result? what you have already said (less than 1% weight), professionals and amateurs. And the problem of knowledge about the consumpon culture of these this preparaon would be waste of me? learning here simply rests on the lack of proper drinks as well as their origin, variees and Tradionally, sommelier contests have quesons pracce of preparaon and work with the product. preparaon methods. First of all, a sommelier is about tea and coffee, but they take less than 1% of I oen choose a technique of preparaon that is not required to have the right tea or coffee the total weight of tasks. Most oen they are quite correct in terms of taccs and me With tea, everything is different. And if in coffee the recommendaon for the guest and the ability to devoted to some elite expensive coffee or tea consumpon. I try to immerse myself in the system of grading and some coordinates is gradually consult them on the range of tea and coffee offered variees and terminology. The preparaon of these beverage world. If you take tea, for example, in evolving, in tea, it seems to me, it does not move at by the establishment. drinks is not on the task list, even at the highest- addion to reading a couple of books, I have all.

34 35 issuetwo.2019

tea studio, knowledge of the structure and rules of I sll want more partners, and I sll want this Championship Organizer’s Checklist the championship, me to spare, experience in holiday to be created as a joint eﬀort, not by a small Aliona Velichko’s Experience running a tea school. group of enthusiasts. I want the parcipants to lose

.online their fear and to realize that the process is just as I did not know yet who would support me, but for important as the result. And I want partners to see some reason I believed that such a good idea is hard talk the success of the event as much more than just a not to support. return on investment. It is important to make masters

Aer spending five years organizing a naonal tea championship, you accumulate experience that, on the one With experience I came to understand that the money, but it is equally important to realize that we hand, is worth sharing, but on the other — you understand how unique everything is in the context of each world is ruled not only by ideas, but also by money, are doing the same thing. But there is always a country. In addion to subjecvity, the second difficulty that arises in summarizing what you have learned is that the performance anxiety may be stronger than journey between vision and implementaon. related to the issues of structuring that very knowledge and the proper emphasis on the primary and on the the desire to win, that the team is a good support, secondary, which is oen just as important as the primary. Therefore, this arcle is divided into three parts: but the whole responsibility is sll on you, and that To start this journey, you first need to answer a few basic things about the approach, descripons of different formats and some comments of various importance you can invest three months in an event, and, in the quesons for yourself: џ in alphabecal order. It is a kind of algorithm built on my experience. I hope it will be useful to those specialists end, you would be glad to cover the costs and get a Is your love of tea materialized in the form of a who consider the organizaon of tournaments as one of the opons for their professional development. ‘thank you’ from someone. shop, studio, website, club or company? Exisng projects are trusted more. To become an organizer of a tea championship, you trump cards. I found eight such cards. If you have But on the other hand, it is an invaluable џ Do you have any free me? High-quality need at least to have a love for tea, the courage to half of them at the start, that’s something. networking experience. Tea people get to know preparaon will take me. It takes me three take risks and an understanding of why you need to each other, even if they are not friends, but at least months of full involvement in the process. do so, and at the most — all trump cards in your By the start of the first championship in Belarus they feel part of the community. Some parcipants џ Do you have any idea where you will find the pocket. But without the ‘at least’ part, in my (2015), I had movaon, love for tea, and about half discover new roads and grow professionally. And money? The championship has to be done at your opinion, you won’t succeed, even if you have all the of the trump cards. 10 years of tea journey and a you know it’s difficult, but it is necessary. own expense, and there is no “kind stranger” who

36 37 issuetwo.2019

36 37 Aliona Velichko. Championship organizer’s check-list ments on weekends, and when we built the championship into an exhibion, we lost some of our guests, because it worked from 10 a.m. to 6 gives you money for it with the words: “Do what community and the country (region) as a whole? .online p.m. on weekdays. you want, and do not deny yourself anything”. In This queson has to be answered for yourself џ Our own stascs and feedback. The data are addion to the expenses for the event, the ﬁrst. Then it will be asked by many others and

talk more understandable and transparent, they do obligatory package provided by the organizer should be answered, preferably honestly and not need to be extracted from the big exhibion includes ckets for the winners to get to the next- convincingly. data. So you can see exactly how many guests level tournament. џ Do you know the rules of the championship and came for tea. џ Do you know where and how you will recruit are you ready to sign an agreement with the џ Tickets. A stand-alone event allows you to sell masters parcipants and judges? owners of the project? The championship is not ckets and add a lile money to your budget. џ Whom will you recruit for the team? And how? an amateur event, but an event with a clear and However, when selling ckets you should take into џ Where will you find volunteers? well-thought-out structure, with its own rules. account the appetes of the venue (park, џ Do you have a clear understanding of the goals museum, etc.), almost always an increased one. and objecves of the event for yourself, the Difficules of an independent project: џ Adversing for the event falls enrely on the Formats of Tea Championships shoulders of its organizer. џ All technical support must be provided by you. To the first approximaon, there can be two formats: independent and built into a larger event. The advantages of the championship being built Each comes with its advantages and disadvantages. into another event: џ Part of the technical support is provided by the We had 4 independent events, and all in different organizers of the main event. places: an art gallery of a hyped Internet portal, a џ The main event incorporates the adversing Chinese five-star hotel, a naonal art museum and campaign for the championship into its own and an amusement park. The benefits of independent expands the circle of visitors. tournaments: џ Entourage and atmosphere. A standalone event is The most popular events so far have been our own a good opportunity to create an atmosphere fesvals and tournaments held at the Chinese hotel important to the tea community. It means cozi- and the amusement park. But I can’t say that the ness, music, decoraon, a program that includes perfect format has been found yet. Partners like seminars, workshops, and entertainment. Such an events that pay for themselves and aract new event can bring together up to 2000 people, who clients. And the visitors like spaciousness, fesvity, come specifically for the sake of all the things welcoming atmosphere, good weather and a variety menoned above. of themac plaorms. џ Our own rules. The choice of date, ming, size of the site... We always held independent tourna-

38 Aliona Velichko. Championship organizer’s check-list ments on weekends, and when we built the championship into an exhibion, we lost some of our guests, because it worked from 10 a.m. to 6 gives you money for it with the words: “Do what community and the country (region) as a whole? .online p.m. on weekdays. you want, and do not deny yourself anything”. In This queson has to be answered for yourself џ Our own stascs and feedback. The data are addion to the expenses for the event, the first. Then it will be asked by many others and talk more understandable and transparent, they do obligatory package provided by the organizer should be answered, preferably honestly and not need to be extracted from the big exhibion includes ckets for the winners to get to the next- convincingly. data. So you can see exactly how many guests level tournament. џ Do you know the rules of the championship and came for tea. џ Do you know where and how you will recruit are you ready to sign an agreement with the џ Tickets. A stand-alone event allows you to sell masters parcipants and judges? owners of the project? The championship is not ckets and add a lile money to your budget. џ Whom will you recruit for the team? And how? an amateur event, but an event with a clear and However, when selling ckets you should take into џ Where will you find volunteers? well-thought-out structure, with its own rules. account the appetes of the venue (park, џ Do you have a clear understanding of the goals museum, etc.), almost always an increased one. and objecves of the event for yourself, the Difficules of an independent project: џ Adversing for the event falls enrely on the Formats of Tea Championships shoulders of its organizer. џ All technical support must be provided by you. To the first approximaon, there can be two formats: independent and built into a larger event. The advantages of the championship being built Each comes with its advantages and disadvantages. into another event: џ Part of the technical support is provided by the We had 4 independent events, and all in different organizers of the main event. places: an art gallery of a hyped Internet portal, a џ The main event incorporates the adversing Chinese five-star hotel, a naonal art museum and campaign for the championship into its own and an amusement park. The benefits of independent expands the circle of visitors. tournaments: џ Entourage and atmosphere. A standalone event is The most popular events so far have been our own a good opportunity to create an atmosphere fesvals and tournaments held at the Chinese hotel important to the tea community. It means cozi- and the amusement park. But I can’t say that the ness, music, decoraon, a program that includes perfect format has been found yet. Partners like seminars, workshops, and entertainment. Such an events that pay for themselves and aract new event can bring together up to 2000 people, who clients. And the visitors like spaciousness, fesvity, come specifically for the sake of all the things welcoming atmosphere, good weather and a variety menoned above. of themac plaorms. џ Our own rules. The choice of date, ming, size of the site... We always held independent tourna-

38 issuetwo.2019

Locaon. It’s beer to choose a place that is easily adversing. Once the budget was replenished by Tea Championship A-Z accessible and has a parking lot. Places with a sold ckets. Parcipants also paid a small registra- Aliona Velichko’s Index unique character and their own clientele are arac- on fee. While at ﬁrst only tea shops and water-

.online ve. It’s great when the staﬀ is friendly and all selling companies were our partners, later on the arrangements are thoroughly recorded. partnership became interesng for food courts and

talk crasmen. We also aracted info partners Money. Or rather, where to get it and where barter (magazines, informaon portals) on barter terms. is possible. We agreed on a paral barter to print Adversing. We’ve adversed on the radio, on naonal tea championship. But the tournament products or to organize performances. All our “Oops!..” It’s inevitable. It’s the organizer’s cry when television, on the internet, in the subway. Plus, we deﬁnitely helps them grow professionally: one

masters master classes and lectures were free of charge. The something goes wrong. You just have to be pre- print out posters every me and hand out flyers. We winner of an internaonal championship became a main income — partners’ fees for space rental and pared for it and to not blame yourself too much — get the partners involved. naonal judge; two people got tea jobs in Russia thanks to acquaintances they made during the Budget. It grows from lile things into big sums and championship; several people became more acve usually includes: ckets for the winners’ trip to the and deeper involved in tea, experimenng with it at next-level championship (one of the main hookah bars; one bartender opened several coffee expenses), expenses for judges (transportaon, houses and cares about the tea knowledge of his food, accommodaon), rent for the site, payment employees. These are stories that I know, but there for photo and video services, expenses for the site, are certainly more that I don’t know. payment for designer’s work, printed maer (banners, rollups, info walls, leaflets and posters), Entertainers. Many guests come to the event with adversing on the radio, web sites and social children, so we always had a playground with networks, aprons, products and ingredients for the entertainers. We cooperated on barter terms, in organizer’s composion assignment, emcee’s fee, exchange for adversing and tea. staonery, prizes for parcipants, T-shirts and meals for volunteers, the work of a sound engineer. Instagram. It turned out to be the most effecve social network for us, plus FB and VK. But as a rule, Do not forget about the organizer’s fee, although they are acve mostly during the preparaon and aer closing all the financial holes, there’s almost holding of the event — and this is a disadvantage. never anything le for this part. The most inexpensive championship cost 3000 dollars, the most Judges. First, we invited experienced tea people, expensive one - 8000 dollars (not counng the plus we involved coffee and wine specialists. Then organizer’s fee). Once we made a small profit, but we included a winner of an internaonal champion- the other mes we just broke even. ship into our judging panel. We try to have internaonal panels every year, although the cost of Champions. So far, they don’t really see what they recruing too-far-away judges is too high. But it’s receive by winning, besides taking part in an inter- important, too.

40 41 issuetwo.2019

.online ve. It’s great when the staﬀ is friendly and all selling companies were our partners, later on the arrangements are thoroughly recorded. partnership became interesng for food courts and talk crasmen. We also aracted info partners Money. Or rather, where to get it and where barter (magazines, informaon portals) on barter terms. is possible. We agreed on a paral barter to print Adversing. We’ve adversed on the radio, on naonal tea championship. But the tournament products or to organize performances. All our “Oops!..” It’s inevitable. It’s the organizer’s cry when television, on the internet, in the subway. Plus, we deﬁnitely helps them grow professionally: one

40 41 issuetwo.2019 Aliona Velichko. Tea Championship A-Z TMC Formats in a Small Market Gundega Silniece’s Insights there will always be those who are happy to do it who have been with me during all five champion- .online for you. ships, and their support is important to me. There were a designer, a journalist and a PR manager talk Parcipants. It is sll difficult to recruit them. Most whose work was compensated, but they did much of them are those who have received tea training or more than was expected from them. There was an work at some tea establishment, a bar or a coffee aempt to aract sponsoring partners to the boost for willingness to parcipate in the event shop. Some parcipate several mes, but they are organizing team, but they have so much to do that from parcipants side and helps us to posion this masters few. Over 5 years, about 55 people have parci- they couldn’t find either me or movaon. event in our country as significant. pated in different categories. Themac Plaorms. We had them with lectures on This is my second year as Naonal coordinator and Partners. I like that word beer than ‘sponsors’. It psychology, with lectures and master classes on tea, based on previous years experience, I am pung signifies a potenal for cooperaon, not just a maral arts, art, and also a plaorm for children. higher plank for ourselves with every single event monetary relaonship. It’s one of the most impor- that we make TMC. It is very important to recognize tant topics in preparaon for the championship. Based on my experience, I can say that a team of 3- weak points and make improvements, keep on They create flavor and diversity, plus they invest and 4 people is the most efficient and mobile, provided searching for more aracve appearance for this support. Partners always calculate their benefits, that everyone can successfully cope with their event, as it sll counts as “exoc” for Latvia. primarily financial, because they are people of workload. But the main responsibility sll lies with business, but the idea is also important to them. the organizer. And the main thing here is not to First of all we are sll struggling with a choice of Today we have about 5 tea companies who support burn out. venue. First years TMC Latvia was held in different us regularly, and 5-7 who support us from me to tearooms. Pluses was low expenses and ambient me. Volunteers. They’re needed, and it’s beer not to atmosphere though plaorm had branded have too many. To help the parcipants on stage background and it doesn’t allow involve bigger Photos and Videos. It is always worth making or and in the preparaon room, to meet visitors, to audience from aside. looking for those who will make it tasty and beau- help the judges and speakers. At a big tea fesval, a ful. It works for the future. And it creates history. volunteer should be present at each of the venues. The following years we moved to the biggest food exhibion in the Balc states Riga Food. Pluses are Plus, the video will be watched by future contes- We looked for them among acquaintances and, if it In Latvia, Tea Masters Cup is being held 5 years in a professional venue, observers from HoReCa and tants (or so they say). wasn’t enough, on the Internet. It is important to row so far. We are having all nominaons- Tea guests from other countries, easier to work with thank the volunteers with gis and to feed them! Preparaon, Tea Pairing, Tea Tasng and second Team. This is important. The ideal situaon is when aracng sponsorships. Minuses — in the year Tea Mixology as well. paid specialists are inspired by the idea and ready to Winter. Or rather, February and March is the main nominaons which needs more ambient do much more than they are obligated to, and me for the event. In winter you are feel more thirst As Latvia has surprisingly high overall results in atmosphere is almost impossible to work when near volunteers have enough me to meet and discuss for hot drinks and there are fewer fesvals. In Internaonal level ( in the last 3years, 7 different contests of the chiefs, baristas and bartenders is the scope of work, thus sharing more responsibility. summer and outdoors, it is more fesve, but there golden, silver and bronze awards), it gives an extra being held. There are two people I am grateful to, my friends are more risks due to weather condions.

42 43 issuetwo.2019 Aliona Velichko. Tea Championship A-Z TMC Formats in a Small Market Gundega Silniece’s Insights there will always be those who are happy to do it who have been with me during all five champion- .online for you. ships, and their support is important to me. There were a designer, a journalist and a PR manager talk Parcipants. It is sll difficult to recruit them. Most whose work was compensated, but they did much of them are those who have received tea training or more than was expected from them. There was an work at some tea establishment, a bar or a coffee aempt to aract sponsoring partners to the boost for willingness to parcipate in the event shop. Some parcipate several mes, but they are organizing team, but they have so much to do that from parcipants side and helps us to posion this masters few. Over 5 years, about 55 people have parci- they couldn’t find either me or movaon. event in our country as significant. pated in different categories. Themac Plaorms. We had them with lectures on This is my second year as Naonal coordinator and Partners. I like that word beer than ‘sponsors’. It psychology, with lectures and master classes on tea, based on previous years experience, I am pung signifies a potenal for cooperaon, not just a maral arts, art, and also a plaorm for children. higher plank for ourselves with every single event monetary relaonship. It’s one of the most impor- that we make TMC. It is very important to recognize tant topics in preparaon for the championship. Based on my experience, I can say that a team of 3- weak points and make improvements, keep on They create flavor and diversity, plus they invest and 4 people is the most efficient and mobile, provided searching for more aracve appearance for this support. Partners always calculate their benefits, that everyone can successfully cope with their event, as it sll counts as “exoc” for Latvia. primarily financial, because they are people of workload. But the main responsibility sll lies with business, but the idea is also important to them. the organizer. And the main thing here is not to First of all we are sll struggling with a choice of Today we have about 5 tea companies who support burn out. venue. First years TMC Latvia was held in different us regularly, and 5-7 who support us from me to tearooms. Pluses was low expenses and ambient me. Volunteers. They’re needed, and it’s beer not to atmosphere though plaorm had branded have too many. To help the parcipants on stage background and it doesn’t allow involve bigger Photos and Videos. It is always worth making or and in the preparaon room, to meet visitors, to audience from aside. looking for those who will make it tasty and beau- help the judges and speakers. At a big tea fesval, a ful. It works for the future. And it creates history. volunteer should be present at each of the venues. The following years we moved to the biggest food exhibion in the Balc states Riga Food. Pluses are Plus, the video will be watched by future contes- We looked for them among acquaintances and, if it In Latvia, Tea Masters Cup is being held 5 years in a professional venue, observers from HoReCa and tants (or so they say). wasn’t enough, on the Internet. It is important to row so far. We are having all nominaons- Tea guests from other countries, easier to work with thank the volunteers with gis and to feed them! Preparaon, Tea Pairing, Tea Tasng and second Team. This is important. The ideal situaon is when aracng sponsorships. Minuses — in the year Tea Mixology as well. paid specialists are inspired by the idea and ready to Winter. Or rather, February and March is the main nominaons which needs more ambient do much more than they are obligated to, and me for the event. In winter you are feel more thirst As Latvia has surprisingly high overall results in atmosphere is almost impossible to work when near volunteers have enough me to meet and discuss for hot drinks and there are fewer fesvals. In Internaonal level ( in the last 3years, 7 different contests of the chiefs, baristas and bartenders is the scope of work, thus sharing more responsibility. summer and outdoors, it is more fesve, but there golden, silver and bronze awards), it gives an extra being held. There are two people I am grateful to, my friends are more risks due to weather condions.

42 43 Gundega Silniece. TMC Formats in a Small Market

masters May 31 ﬁrst part was held and we are more than happy about results — mood, visual, light and sound was just in another level of experience.

Second part will be held in September, in the frames of Riga Food exhibion.

For new countries which comes on the board of TMC my big advice is to not to hurry with amount of nominaons which are held, it takes some me to navigate through what is expected from parcipants and local judges. As well as parcipants and judges trainings are needed before. I believe that big plus is to go through Judges cerficaon process Yourself, I As biggest expenses in our country usually are for am on my way to that. It gives deeper insight of sending winner guys to Internaonal finals, it makes what is expected and helps to posionate concept sense to grow gradually accordingly. For supply of of the event in all possible levels aer and — its teaware, tea, water and other atributes is much much more easy to catch up fragile moments if they more easier to find partners. Big part of budget happen by counng results and to react goes to visual appearance and mulmedia as well immediately. If the organising team is small, every as material for sharing in social media is crical. single person is needed to be mulfunconal and able to play different roles. Also it is important to Shout out for all my friends from all over the world put into everyones mind that Naonal from TMC movement because all these million Championship is only first step we make and it is details comes together in one amazing picture in needed to Zoom in Zoom out every single TMC Internaonal and our neverending night tea movement we make in Internaonal level. drinkings I would never change to anything.

44 Gundega Silniece. TMC Formats in a Small Market

To keep pluses from food exhibion venue, but sll .online have more inmacy in nominaons which needs arsc touch, we decided to separate nominaons talk in 2 diﬀerent events. One — for Tea Preparaon and Tea pairing- more atmospheric, arsc. And another one — Tasng and Mixology — more technical. masters May 31 ﬁrst part was held and we are more than happy about results — mood, visual, light and sound was just in another level of experience.

Second part will be held in September, in the frames of Riga Food exhibion.

44 Tea & Coﬀee in Ireland

www.orimi.com [email protected] Tea & Coﬀee in Ireland

www.orimi.com [email protected] Not Only Guinness: Tea in Ireland Ekaterina Likhacheva’s Tea Crawl .online talk

The culture of tea drinking in Ireland has developed under the strong Brish influence. The humid and masters cool island climate of these regions contributed to the fact that black tea with its warming properes quickly gained popularity here. In the 18th century, due to various polical and economic reasons associated with the dependence of the rebellious island on the English Crown, Brish merchants brought to Ireland tea of extremely poor quality. The Irish sought to improve the poor taste of the tea imported by the Brish by long brewing and adding large porons of sugar and milk. Historically tea was brewed in caldrons or cast-iron keles just above the burning hearth in every Irish house. Tea could stay on fire all day and become so strong that it was impossible to drink it without an impressive poron of milk. Tea remains just as popular in modern Ireland: an ordinary Irishman drinks up to 1825 cups of tea a year, most oen using tea bags of extra strong tea and tradionally adding to a cup up to 1/3 of milk or cream, which in this country is of excellent quality thanks to the developed dairy industry and ever- The Republic of Ireland is an emerald island with a green meadows. populaon of only 6.5 million people and the highest per capita consumpon of not only the Irish have significant emoonal aachment to famous dark Irish beer but also black tea. strong and rich tea, and especially to the most

Photo Credits: Lacob (Adobe Stock), Ekaterina Likhacheva 46 Not Only Guinness: Tea in Ireland Ekaterina Likhacheva’s Tea Crawl .online talk

Photo Credits: Lacob (Adobe Stock), Ekaterina Likhacheva 46 Ekaterina Likhacheva. Not Only Guinness: Tea in Ireland

popular retail brands — Lloyds, Barry’s Tea, Irishmen and tourists this English tradion is in .online Bewley’s, Tetley. Irish expats also remain commied demand at public catering establishments. For to domesc tea brands outside of the country, so example, many ﬁve-star hotels in Ireland with the talk Ireland exports these brands to the USA, Canada, undisputed leadership of Merrion Hotel (Dublin), Australia and Great Britain, where the populaon of where policians and world celebries oen stay, Irish is the highest. oﬀer English Aernoon Tea as part of entertaining cultural acvies that may include an art exhibion

masters Tea at the emerald island is a tradional and or recreaon of the aristocrac atmosphere of necessary element of communicaon with family Victorian tea drinking. The cost of such luxurious and friends, while coffee is treated as a more formal service is quite high with prebooking required. drink and is mostly consumed out of home. In Merrion Hotel collects guests’ credit card details to Ireland, home tea drinking is usually accompanied reduce table downme and possible losses in case by long and hearelt conversaons — Irish claim of no show. that there is no problem that cannot be solved with a cup of tea. First during the day Irish drink tea An average cup of tea at an Irish cafe, hotel or around 11 o’clock in the morning than followed by restaurant costs 2.4-3.5 euros. Most establishments unlimited cups during the day and some more in the in low, medium and even high price categories earn evening. on tea by maximum cost reducon of the product itself. Thus, guests are most oen offered ordinary Tea is usually served with pastries and cookies or tea bags of one of the popular retail brands, served sweets of tradional popular brands in large n in a cup or a small tea pot with indispensable sugar boxes (Roses, Celebraons, Hobnobs, Jaffa Cakes, and milk. The taste of the average Irish tea con- Aer Eight). The innovave and popular element of sumer in the low and medium price segments is Irish tea drinking is a sandwich with local brands of tradional and unpretenous — tea-bags brewed crisps (chips). The sandwich consists of two slices of tea at a cafe or restaurant is the acceptable norm as so white bread with a layer of buer and Irish long as there is enough milk and sugar. crisps (Tayto, Walkers, Keogh’s), sour cream and onion flavour exclusively. Ironically, this type of tea However, in order to make the most of tea, public snack is popular among all age categories and social catering invents new business models, oen classes — the only difference being the price and combining English, Irish and even Oriental tradi- quality of ingredients. ons. In this case tea becomes the binding element of a comprehensive service and its quality depends Tradional English Aernoon tea with elements of directly on the level and overall concept of the light early dinner has not been adopted by Irish event. households, but for the older generaon of

48 Ekaterina Likhacheva. Not Only Guinness: Tea in Ireland popular retail brands — Lloyds, Barry’s Tea, Irishmen and tourists this English tradion is in .online Bewley’s, Tetley. Irish expats also remain commied demand at public catering establishments. For to domesc tea brands outside of the country, so example, many five-star hotels in Ireland with the talk Ireland exports these brands to the USA, Canada, undisputed leadership of Merrion Hotel (Dublin), Australia and Great Britain, where the populaon of where policians and world celebries oen stay, Irish is the highest. offer English Aernoon Tea as part of entertaining cultural acvies that may include an art exhibion masters Tea at the emerald island is a tradional and or recreaon of the aristocrac atmosphere of necessary element of communicaon with family Victorian tea drinking. The cost of such luxurious and friends, while coffee is treated as a more formal service is quite high with prebooking required. drink and is mostly consumed out of home. In Merrion Hotel collects guests’ credit card details to Ireland, home tea drinking is usually accompanied reduce table downme and possible losses in case by long and hearelt conversaons — Irish claim of no show. that there is no problem that cannot be solved with a cup of tea. First during the day Irish drink tea An average cup of tea at an Irish cafe, hotel or around 11 o’clock in the morning than followed by restaurant costs 2.4-3.5 euros. Most establishments unlimited cups during the day and some more in the in low, medium and even high price categories earn evening. on tea by maximum cost reducon of the product itself. Thus, guests are most oen offered ordinary Tea is usually served with pastries and cookies or tea bags of one of the popular retail brands, served sweets of tradional popular brands in large n in a cup or a small tea pot with indispensable sugar boxes (Roses, Celebraons, Hobnobs, Jaffa Cakes, and milk. The taste of the average Irish tea con- Aer Eight). The innovave and popular element of sumer in the low and medium price segments is Irish tea drinking is a sandwich with local brands of tradional and unpretenous — tea-bags brewed crisps (chips). The sandwich consists of two slices of tea at a cafe or restaurant is the acceptable norm as so white bread with a layer of buer and Irish long as there is enough milk and sugar. crisps (Tayto, Walkers, Keogh’s), sour cream and onion flavour exclusively. Ironically, this type of tea However, in order to make the most of tea, public snack is popular among all age categories and social catering invents new business models, oen classes — the only difference being the price and combining English, Irish and even Oriental tradi- quality of ingredients. ons. In this case tea becomes the binding element of a comprehensive service and its quality depends Tradional English Aernoon tea with elements of directly on the level and overall concept of the light early dinner has not been adopted by Irish event. households, but for the older generaon of

48 Ekaterina Likhacheva. Not Only Guinness: Tea in Ireland

masters importance, but the supply of fresh milk remains or negave feedback (in person or through social unchanged, so the flavour nuances are smoothed media), which creates a unique brand of the com- out. pany, and a circle of loyal customers, who will return and recommend the services or products they like On the other hand, such establishments as Tea to their friends. Garden in Dublin focus on quality, wide range and nuances of tea preparaon. The concept of this cafe Some establishments are so successful in creang implies a very limited set of light snacks — nuts, their own brand in the country that they have honey and dried fruits, as well as shisha with a wide become iconic for locals and obligatory for tourists. range of flavors. The business model focuses on For example, Bewley’s Café on Graon Street aracng customers by providing a comfortable and (Dublin) has become an important part of the city’s relaxing atmosphere that is conducive to communi- history and the Irish tea industry development. In caon, not limited in me. Much aenon is paid to 1835, the Bewley brothers delivered 2099 cases of the tea ware, which is designed to emphasize the tea from Canton to the Dublin port, at which point taste and origin of every parcular type of tea. the East India Company’s monopoly on the Irish tea Guests can sit on the floor on carpets and cushions market came to an end — higher quality and or in comfortable wicker chairs at tables. At the cheaper products imported by an enterprising same me, the pricing policy includes the above family tandem became available to Irish people. In menoned services in the price of tea, as it is 200% 1840, Bewley’s opened the café in the centre of — 250% higher than in a cafe with more modest Dublin, which has been successfully operang to furnishings and product quality. this day and is the flagship of Bewley’s brand and a source of nostalgia for Irish naves. In Dublin — the capital and the most populous city in Ireland with a populaon of more than 1.2 million The Bewley’s concept does not stand sll — in people, -- small cafes are opened and closed every parallel with the preservaon of tradions, the month. Business success depends largely on a company launched a modern brand Grumpy Mule, combinaon of standard factors such as locaon, which focuses on a younger generaon, mostly hours of operaon, product range, atmosphere and office workers. The focus of this subsidiary brand is

50 Ekaterina Likhacheva. Not Only Guinness: Tea in Ireland

For example, Dublin Aernoon Tea Vintage Bus Tour pricing, but the importance of Ireland’s unique word .online is equipped with tables and combines city tours of mouth factor, i.e. how a restaurant, cafe or hotel with tradional English tea drinking. Regular tea-bag has established its “personal brand” among the talk drink serves here as a warm liquid to drink with local chat-loving populaon, cannot be downplayed. standard sweet snacks while enjoying the city views, accompanied by jokes of a cheerful Irish guide. The As Ireland’s market is relavely small, the success of flavour and price of the tea are given the least any business here is largely determined by posive masters importance, but the supply of fresh milk remains or negave feedback (in person or through social unchanged, so the flavour nuances are smoothed media), which creates a unique brand of the com- out. pany, and a circle of loyal customers, who will return and recommend the services or products they like On the other hand, such establishments as Tea to their friends. Garden in Dublin focus on quality, wide range and nuances of tea preparaon. The concept of this cafe Some establishments are so successful in creang implies a very limited set of light snacks — nuts, their own brand in the country that they have honey and dried fruits, as well as shisha with a wide become iconic for locals and obligatory for tourists. range of flavors. The business model focuses on For example, Bewley’s Café on Graon Street aracng customers by providing a comfortable and (Dublin) has become an important part of the city’s relaxing atmosphere that is conducive to communi- history and the Irish tea industry development. In caon, not limited in me. Much aenon is paid to 1835, the Bewley brothers delivered 2099 cases of the tea ware, which is designed to emphasize the tea from Canton to the Dublin port, at which point taste and origin of every parcular type of tea. the East India Company’s monopoly on the Irish tea Guests can sit on the floor on carpets and cushions market came to an end — higher quality and or in comfortable wicker chairs at tables. At the cheaper products imported by an enterprising same me, the pricing policy includes the above family tandem became available to Irish people. In menoned services in the price of tea, as it is 200% 1840, Bewley’s opened the café in the centre of — 250% higher than in a cafe with more modest Dublin, which has been successfully operang to furnishings and product quality. this day and is the flagship of Bewley’s brand and a source of nostalgia for Irish naves. In Dublin — the capital and the most populous city in Ireland with a populaon of more than 1.2 million The Bewley’s concept does not stand sll — in people, -- small cafes are opened and closed every parallel with the preservaon of tradions, the month. Business success depends largely on a company launched a modern brand Grumpy Mule, combinaon of standard factors such as locaon, which focuses on a younger generaon, mostly hours of operaon, product range, atmosphere and office workers. The focus of this subsidiary brand is

50 issuetwo.2019 Ekaterina Likhacheva. Not Only Guinness: Tea in Ireland Irish Coffee and Espresso Marni Ekaterina Likhacheva’s Coffee Meengs quality coffee, while tea is offered bagged, but from brothers 15 years ago and now includes 4 cafes, a .online the average price category of Bewley’s tea line. farm, healthy eang courses, books and a YouTube Some Grumpy Mule cafes are located directly on channel. talk the territory of Irish internaonal companies and work under contract with them, providing employ- The Happy Pear’s range of teas is limited to tradional Assam, green tea with lemon and ginger, ees with subsidized prices for food and beverages. Irish coffee is probably the most popular coffee mix in the world and the ancestor of other coffee cocktails. In organic sencha, and rooibos with mint, chocolate its homeland, there is a long tradion of combining coffee and alcohol. The demand for Irish coffee has

masters Despite the fact that the country has a developed and chamomile. Leaf tea is brewed in teapot-sized supported the whiskey industry in its most unfavourable days, and the famous Baileys liqueur owes much of its network of internaonal and large local tea and paper caddy filters and served in bright ceramic tea popularity to its successful coffee blend. All Irish whiskey producers do not neglect Irish coffee, acvely sharing coffee chains (Starbucks, Insomnia, Costa), new ware. As an alternave to regular milk there is the secrets of its proper preparaon and sponsoring compeon events. The main ingredients of Irish coffee members are constantly trying to enter the public coconut, oatmeal or almond milk, while the price are simple; and the history of creaon is wiy. catering market of Ireland. remains standard — 2.5 euros. In this case tea is a supporve element for the general idea of the In 1943, a young chef, Joe Sheridan, offered a luxury hotel lobby or an open-air in the drizzling rain For example, Brew 204 cafe opened in Dublin’s enterprise, but the main profit is determined by a combinaon of coffee, whiskey, sugar and cream to at a tradional Irish music concert. historic Harold’s Cross district just several months wide range of vegetarian dishes and desserts. the frozen and red passengers of an airplane ago. The concept of the place is a family healthy Ireland holds regular Irish coffee compeons, forced to land in Limerick due to bad weather. food cafe of average price category. Good quality In general, new market parcipants try to win the where great aenon is paid to the ingredients, Perhaps Sheridan was inspired by the universal Irish tea is served in tea pots and in combinaon with tea consumer either by compeve prices and technology and even the atmosphere in which remedy for colds and bad moods — a hot beverage unusual snacks — for example, open avocado convenience or by an aracve or unusual idea. coffee is made. The Irish take the ‘Irish Coffee’ made with a generous poron of whiskey, boiling sandwich with cream cheese, pomegranate and brand seriously and advise never to order this drink How do you organise your own Irish tea party at water, sugar, lemon and cloves. The mood and well- mint or quinoa-and-banana muffins. To maximize in a crowded pub or bar — a barista may simply not home or at a tearoom or café? being of the gloomy travellers quickly improved, and profits, the cafe has limited its tea range to six have enough me to devote aenon to all the they were interested in the origin of the warming dramacally different teas, from black and green to Classic Irish tea is Assam, a high quality tea with a aspects that make up a perfect Irish coffee. drink, to which they received the answer that this is blends of dried fruits, herbs and berries. Prices strong malty flavour and a rich reddish colour. As a nothing more than “Irish coffee”. remain average and relevant to aract a wide budget alternave, any kind of strong black tea or The basic principles of making Irish coffee are as follows: audience. any tea bags which would give strong infusion can Aer this incident, the Irish coffee-and-alcohol џ The glass should be thick-walled and warmed-up. A conscious atude to health and nutrion is one be used. Milk or cream, as well as brown or cane beverage rapidly gained popularity off the island, џ Sugar must dissolve completely, and it cannot be of the trends in modern Ireland. The cafes pioneer- sugar is always served to enhance the astringency. thanks to both the Irish people acvely populang excluded from the recipe (otherwise the cream ing in the concept of healthy eang are working and The tradional food match for Irish tea is scones — the world and the successful combinaon and will not remain on the surface). developing successfully. Many of them introduce crumbly buns with or without raisins, which are availability of ingredients. џ The whiskey must be Irish. tea as a product that can have a posive impact on served with a generous poron of so buer and The Irish coffee recipe has many variaons and џ Cream must be full-fat, cold and should be poured health and wellbeing. The Happy Pear café chain is any berry jam. nuances, making each drink unique depending on slowly over a spoon. one of the pioneers of healthy eang in the country. the choice and quality of ingredients, proporons, џ You must relaxed and in a great mood. The company was founded by the Flynn twin brewing method and environment — whether it’s a

52 53 issuetwo.2019 Ekaterina Likhacheva. Not Only Guinness: Tea in Ireland Irish Coffee and Espresso Marni Ekaterina Likhacheva’s Coffee Meengs quality coffee, while tea is offered bagged, but from brothers 15 years ago and now includes 4 cafes, a .online the average price category of Bewley’s tea line. farm, healthy eang courses, books and a YouTube Some Grumpy Mule cafes are located directly on channel. talk the territory of Irish internaonal companies and work under contract with them, providing employ- The Happy Pear’s range of teas is limited to tradional Assam, green tea with lemon and ginger, ees with subsidized prices for food and beverages. Irish coffee is probably the most popular coffee mix in the world and the ancestor of other coffee cocktails. In organic sencha, and rooibos with mint, chocolate its homeland, there is a long tradion of combining coffee and alcohol. The demand for Irish coffee has

52 53 Ekaterina Likhacheva. Irish Coﬀee and Espresso Marni

The main variaons of Irish coffee in Ireland are land Europe. The increase in the tax was intended to .online summed up in the table below. regulate alcohol consumpon in island countries with a harsh windy climate, but so far has only talk Each barista can use its own secrets in working with served to successfully replenish the treasury. ingredients and mixing technology to achieve the desired flavour nuances. Even the classic Irish coffee Not all coffee shops in Ireland have an alcoholic recipe has many variaons — it is important to licence, so classic Irish coffee is the prerogave of

masters follow the basic rules of preparaon, and the rest is pubs, restaurants and hotels. But a drink called ‘Irish a maer of creavity, ingenuity and good mood. coffee’ is also served in non-alcoholic establishments. For example, coffeehouse chain Costa offers The price for Irish coffee in its home country starts a whole line of non-alcoholic Irish coffee with from 5 euros and is due to a fairly long process of bierly tart syrup imitang whiskey — there you preparaon, tourist demand for the drink and the can order lae or cappuccino in Irish style with a alcoholic component. In Ireland and the UK the tax fluffy cap made of cream and Christmas decor. Most on alcoholic beverages is high compared to main- Irish Coffee Table

Coffee Whiskey Sugar Cream Final Taste Topping 150–200 ml 35 ml 2 tbsp or 1 cube 30% and more

Middle Roast Natural Classic Jameson Demerara Nutmeg Espresso Whipped

Bushmills Natural Spicy Espresso Muscovado Vanilla Black Bush Whipped

Knappogue Natural Rich Espresso Turbinado Caramel or Jameson 12 y.o. Whipped

Teeling Small Batch Black Barbados Natural Chocolate Fresh & Mild Americano or Green Spot or Maple Syrop Whipped Shavings

Powers Gold Label, Natural Homey Ibric or Moka Pot Brown Cinammon Red Breast or Jameson Whipped

Photo Credit: George Dolgikh (Adobe Stock) 54 Ekaterina Likhacheva. Irish Coﬀee and Espresso Marni

Coffee Whiskey Sugar Cream Final Taste Topping 150–200 ml 35 ml 2 tbsp or 1 cube 30% and more

Middle Roast Natural Classic Jameson Demerara Nutmeg Espresso Whipped

Bushmills Natural Spicy Espresso Muscovado Vanilla Black Bush Whipped

Knappogue Natural Rich Espresso Turbinado Caramel or Jameson 12 y.o. Whipped

Teeling Small Batch Black Barbados Natural Chocolate Fresh & Mild Americano or Green Spot or Maple Syrop Whipped Shavings

Powers Gold Label, Natural Homey Ibric or Moka Pot Brown Cinammon Red Breast or Jameson Whipped

Photo Credit: George Dolgikh (Adobe Stock) 54 Ekaterina Likhacheva. Irish Coﬀee and Espresso Marni

Irish baristas emphasize that Irish coffee is mainly Andrew Taylor, a supervisor of the hotel bar and .online ordered by tourists as part of the obligatory lobby, said that the most popular coffee mixes in programme of acquaintance with the green island. The Shelbourne are Irish coffee and espresso talk marni and the demand for both drinks is stable all Authenc Irish coffee is best served in a local pub. year round. Also, recently, cold coffee mixes based Sarah Cassidy, a barista at an Irish pub in Meath on espresso have gained huge popularity in Ireland. county, confirms that tourists love to order Irish Espresso marni was created back in 1983, but only

masters coffee and shared her recipe. A pub regular James recently has it become a trendy beverage. remarked that it’s beer to use Americano (for soer taste) as a basis for home-made Irish coffee The taste of Irish coffee, strange as it may seem, and in no case to save on sugar. does not depend much on the price. You can try a perfectly well prepared drink in a local pub or at an Irish coffee is not losing its posion in Ireland and in Irish friend’s house, or you can go to a unique Irish the world, but the new coffee mixes do not lag coffee show in one of the Michelin restaurants or behind its ancestor. One of these relave noveles enjoy it at the bar of a five-star hotel. For example, is an espresso marni cocktail. the Dublin luxury restaurant Chapter One offers a In social terms, espresso marni serves as a mini-demonstraon of the famous drink’s smulant, unlike the relaxing and cozy Irish coffee. preparaon: a barista making coffee step by step Espresso marni was created on the basis of a right in front of the guests’ table at the restaurant. strong vodka espresso cocktail, thanks to the Sugar caramel sizzles, the fire is mesmerizing, steam combinaon of caffeine and alcohol, it has a envelops a glass of Irish coffee — everything is very pronounced tonic effect and is good as an aperif. solemn and ceremoniously. The bar of The Shelbourne five-star Dublin hotel is Irish coffee in Ireland and abroad is a whole always busy. Irish coffee here seems to be very complex of impressions, which varies depending on strong and tart. Like the classic recipe, it is based on the guest’s wishes. Wherever you choose to taste or whiskey, strong espresso and brown sugar, but the prepare an Irish coffee, Irish music can be a cream is weakly expressed, only in the form of light wonderful authenc element in creang the right foam. In addion to Irish coffee The Shelbourne atmosphere. In Ireland, the music of the local band offers several espresso-based coffee mixes: classic Kila is parcularly popular for Christmas and New coffee with Baileys liqueur and cream, Caffè Year’s Eve, which is also an equally energec mix of Correo with grappa or sambuca, Café Royale with tradional mofs and modern trends as cocktails Hennessy VS cognac and cream, coffee with based on coffee and Irish whiskey. Disaronno amareo and cream.

Photo Credit: Africa Studio (Adobe Stock) 56 Ekaterina Likhacheva. Irish Coﬀee and Espresso Marni

Photo Credit: Africa Studio (Adobe Stock) 56 Country Style Irish Coﬀee Metropolitan Irish Coﬀee Taylor’s Espresso Marni

Gilna’s Pub The Coage Inn The Shelbourne Hotel (5 stars) Leightown (2,000 residents) Dublin (1,200,000 inhabitants) The recipe is from Sarah Cassidy The recipe is from Andrew Taylor 35.5 ml of Jameson whiskey, espresso coffee, 2 35 ml of Jameson whiskey, 1 cube of Demerara teaspoons of refined sugar, fresh whipped cream. brown sugar, 200 ml of Colombian black coffee, 30 ml of fresh Irish cream. Dilute the sugar with a small amount of boiling water to a syrup in a preheated thick-walled glass, Warm up a thick-walled glass by pouring boiling pour a shot of whiskey, then a shot of fresh espresso water into it. While the glass is heang, prepare coffee and mix. Slowly pour cold whipped cream, coffee. Pour hot water out of the glass, pour using the back side of the teaspoon for even distri- whiskey and put a sugar cube in it. Pour coffee buon. Decorate cream with cocoa and cinnamon from above and sr unl the sugar has dissolved. topping. Lightly whisk the cream and pour over the back 60 ml of pre-made and chilled espresso, 50 ml of of the spoon so that the cream remains on the vodka, 20 ml of coffee liqueur, 20 ml of maple coffee surface. syrup. Andrew Taylor: “We start making the cocktail by cooling the glass with ice. Let me remind you that this drink is served in a cocktail glass or a marni glass. While the glass is chilled, we prepare the drink. Add the ingredients one by one to the cocktail shaker, add ice and shake it all well. Remove the ice from the glass and pour the drink in a thin stream from the shaker into the glass”.

Photo Credits: 3532studio, dimasobko (Adobe Stock)

Фотографии: www.facebook.com/gilnascoageinn и www.theshelbourne.com Country Style Irish Coﬀee Metropolitan Irish Coﬀee Taylor’s Espresso Marni

Photo Credits: 3532studio, dimasobko (Adobe Stock)

Фотографии: www.facebook.com/gilnascoageinn и www.theshelbourne.com Meet Cupuaçu Cupuaçu Olga Yarovikova’s Golden Bar Theobroma grandiﬂorum .online talk

On November 18, La Angua, Guatemala, hosted the ﬁnal of the 2019 Internaonal Chocolate masters Awards. In the nominaon “Simple Dark Chocolate”, the Amazing Cacao chocolate from Cupuasu beans received a bronze medal. Amazing Cacao’s Cupuuasu chocolate won another award — the gold medal of a special jury of tasters in the nominaon “Peruvian plain dark chocolate”.

The author of the le, noted by the internaonal jury in two categories at once, Olga Yarovikova, general manager and chocolaer, tells about the cupuasu plant and chocolate, which is made from its beans.

Kupuasu (cupuaçu, cupuassu, cupuazú, cupu ass, copoasu — Theobroma grandiﬂorum, large- ﬂowered theobroma) is a fruit tree nave to the Brazilian Amazon, a close relave of cocoa (Theobroma cacao). Trees can reach a height of 20 meters and produce heavy, oblong brown fruits. Inside the fruit, white seeds and beans are used, which can be processed using technologies similar to the processing technology of cocoa beans, which allows you to get a product that is very similar to chocolate, but has a number of characterisc and clearly visible properes.

Photo Credits: Guentermanaus (Adobe Stock), Olga Yarovikova 60 Meet Cupuaçu Cupuaçu Olga Yarovikova’s Golden Bar Theobroma grandiﬂorum .online talk

Photo Credits: Guentermanaus (Adobe Stock), Olga Yarovikova 60 Olga Yarovikova. Meet Cupuaçu Cupuaçu Fruit Currently, there is a mulple reselement to Brazil, used for making chocolate. Kupuasu oil is a well- .online Colombia, Cuba and some regions of Peru. Mass known cosmec product that has a beneficial effect reimbursement, begun in the 1970s, and this is a on the skin and hair. It is used in cosmecs for skin talk common occurrence associated with agriculture, and hair care. For example, as part of shaving pests, variees, breeding and agricultural creams. Chocolate making buer is very close in producon. properes to a water temperature of about 30 ° C. Therefore, chocolate made from buer does not masters Kupuasu is culvated for the pulp of fruits and oils melt so quickly in the mouth. obtained from seeds. Very popular in South America, it has a delicate sweet and sour taste with Such chocolate, by the way, is oen called fruity (pear) and banana notes and a pleasant “Cupulate” — this term is not parcularly known aroma with chocolate and pineapple tones. Neutral, outside the professional community, although it has alcoholic drinks, ice cream, fillers for yogurt and already become the subject of a Japanese-Brazilian other goodies. This is oen called the most trial (the name “Cupulate” was used by Japanese expensive fruit in South America. manufacturers, which provoked protests from Brazilian specialists). And yet, since the flesh of the It contains teacrine — a rather rare purine alkaloid Cupuasu fruit is used as a filling for chocolate, it can (it is not found in some variees of tea and coffee), be assumed that in Brazil there is a Cupulate filled which in effect is similar to caffeine. with Cupuasu ...

Conﬂicng data contained in caﬀeine and some * * * other components characterisc of classical cocoa (theobromine and theophylline) are found, it can be A few years ago, while traveling through the jungle assumed that these components are not present, of Peru, we met this amazing fruit. In those parts (in but are present in the seeds. Tannins, glycosides, the region of Madre de Dios), farmers collect the catechins and a number of other components were Kupuasu fruit from both wild and culvated trees. found in the fruits. Some cupuasu-made drinks For them, this is earnings, but for us it is an (such as nectar) have enough probioc products. As opportunity to make an unusual product of a rule, enough to be included in the list of excellent quality. superfoods (catechins, anoxidants, vitamins and light smulants for this). Somemes they are mixed It’s enough to try the Cupuasa beans once and you with green tea — this way it is beer stored. won’t forget their taste ... Therefore, we decided to create a chocolate bar of Cupuasu and present it to Seeds contain up to 50% white oil, which is widely the Russian consumer, as we were sure that it

62 Olga Yarovikova. Meet Cupuaçu Cupuaçu Fruit Currently, there is a mulple reselement to Brazil, used for making chocolate. Kupuasu oil is a well- .online Colombia, Cuba and some regions of Peru. Mass known cosmec product that has a beneficial effect reimbursement, begun in the 1970s, and this is a on the skin and hair. It is used in cosmecs for skin talk common occurrence associated with agriculture, and hair care. For example, as part of shaving pests, variees, breeding and agricultural creams. Chocolate making buer is very close in producon. properes to a water temperature of about 30 ° C. Therefore, chocolate made from buer does not masters Kupuasu is culvated for the pulp of fruits and oils melt so quickly in the mouth. obtained from seeds. Very popular in South America, it has a delicate sweet and sour taste with Such chocolate, by the way, is oen called fruity (pear) and banana notes and a pleasant “Cupulate” — this term is not parcularly known aroma with chocolate and pineapple tones. Neutral, outside the professional community, although it has alcoholic drinks, ice cream, fillers for yogurt and already become the subject of a Japanese-Brazilian other goodies. This is oen called the most trial (the name “Cupulate” was used by Japanese expensive fruit in South America. manufacturers, which provoked protests from Brazilian specialists). And yet, since the flesh of the It contains teacrine — a rather rare purine alkaloid Cupuasu fruit is used as a filling for chocolate, it can (it is not found in some variees of tea and coffee), be assumed that in Brazil there is a Cupulate filled which in effect is similar to caffeine. with Cupuasu ...

62 64 masterstalk.online Olg w this choc with f equipmen series, itw manually ba equipmen v His v r r enc In themanuf equir ela er ould notbelos t y hea ch ofK oun v ela —theskinc armer es specialequipmen a Y e t t er v o classicc ola , andinor y andr upuasu beansw t. A t ed cert as necessar s andar ar t o separ e, asitspopularity isgr actur t themomen o equir t inan ain difficules.Beingthecloses e ofchoc vik oc der t e incr a ov t oa, thecupuasu,how e itfr es mor y t y lineofthebes ering thebean’ o launchthischoc o o pur easing thepr as cleanedb t f v t, w om thec ola or primar a. Mee e sophis chase addional t e ar e fr e w om K owing r or c orking closely e. Sothefir s c y pr oducon of y us t choc a upuasu w t or ed ocessing. ola t Cupuaçu e e —is apidly v er ola t e ina , t t e. e . s t c ( In c le hasr as insauces f Our e jasmine init.Thischoc c while ther c ar The not K g ompe a onnoisseur om upuasu beanchoc t old andbr e w t erna eg f ort ories a ell r ff on intw orts ha onal Choc es ofc able a eceiv ead inhist e ispr t theEur s findnot onz or mea ed tw v v ar e br er e) inthew amel, r acc ag o c ola ough ola o a e bi t ordesserts. as a opean s ally noacidity es ofs t t t e Aw w t eg ola aisins, haz e, cr e isaself t r ar erness ar ories. t esults, theK ds ( orld finalofthis e isg ar eaminess anda tr t ag ds andtw a g wberr old andsilv ood initself e ofthe -c elnuts andprunes e pr on . Subtle y t ained pr , pomeloand onounced, upuasu bean o a w er) intw , asw ar oduct. ds ell o 64 masterstalk.online Olg w this choc with f equipmen series, itw manually ba equipmen v His v r r enc In themanuf equir ela er ould notbelos t y hea ch ofK oun v ela —theskinc armer es specialequipmen a Y e t t er v o classicc ola , andinor y andr upuasu beansw t. A t ed cert as necessar s andar ar t o separ e, asitspopularity isgr actur t themomen o equir t inan ain difficules.Beingthecloses e ofchoc vik oc der t e incr a ov t oa, thecupuasu,how e itfr es mor y t y lineofthebes ering thebean’ o launchthischoc o o pur easing thepr as cleanedb t f v t, w om thec ola or primar a. Mee e sophis chase addional t e ar e fr e w om K owing r or c orking closely e. Sothefir s c y pr oducon of y us t choc a upuasu w t or ed ocessing. ola t Cupuaçu e e —is apidly v er ola t e ina , t t e. e . s t c ( In c le hasr as insauces f Our e jasmine init.Thischoc c while ther c ar The not K g ompe a onnoisseur om upuasu beanchoc t old andbr e w t erna eg f ort ories a ell r ff on intw orts ha onal Choc es ofc able a eceiv ead inhist e ispr t theEur s findnot onz or mea ed tw v v ar e br er e) inthew amel, r acc ag o c ola ough ola o a e bi t ordesserts. as a opean s ally noacidity es ofs t t t e Aw w t eg ola aisins, haz e, cr e isaself t r ar erness ar ories. t esults, theK ds ( orld finalofthis e isg ar eaminess anda tr t ag ds andtw a g wberr old andsilv ood initself e ofthe -c elnuts andprunes e pr on . Subtle y t ained pr , pomeloand onounced, upuasu bean o a w er) intw , asw ar oduct. ds ell o