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Manyhappyreturns W16 | Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. GEAR & GADGETS W5 W14 Reality Bikes STYLE |TRAVEL |FOOD |DRINK |DESIGN |GEAR|PROPERTY |CULTURE |SPORTS Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015 WSJ.com/life Manywho undertakearduous amateur racesgiveupeverything to prepare. One man bucks the trend RF SECOND SIGHT BY JOHN W. MILLER Aspen in fall and summer MOMENT / CERTAIN AMATEUR BIKE RACES attractspecific GES types of riders. Take cyclosportives,competi- IMA tiverides over the same terrain as raceslikethe GETTY Tour de Francecourse.Maybe it’sthe expense / of traveling to Europe during the high season, V when the most popular cyclosportives areheld. SNO Maybe it’sthe notorious difficulty of the rides, PO which canspan 160 kilometers. Whatever the GES; reason, the typical rider is amoneyed weekend IMA warrior—someone with the time and financial GETTY means to invest in asophisticated training regi- / men, not to mention afive-figurebike. HOEN In other words, not me. SC KIPP , Iwas up forthe challenge,but I LEFT OM wasn’tgoing to blowupmy FR savings account or my social life Nevertheless, ayear ago, my former boss andcurrent cycling buddy,Peter Fritsch, pro- posedweride La Marmotte,one of the most famous and taxing cyclosportives.Itruns 174 kilometersthrough the rugged French Alps and culminates in aclimb to the legendaryAlpe d’Huez(elevation: 1,880 meters). ATour moun- tain stageusually calls forbetween 3,000 and 4,500metersoftotal climbing.LaMarmotte? Over 5,000.It’snot unusual forathirdofthe riderstogiveupbeforethe finish line. Iwas up forthe challenge, but on afew conditions: Iwasn’t going to blowupmysav- ingsaccount or my social life, hireacoach or calculatemyVO2 Max (oxygencapacity). I waswilling to train hard, but reasonably.And instead of investing in a€10,000 ultralight bike to shave a few kilos off my ride, I stuck Many HappyReturns with the trusty 8-kilo Cannondale Caad-10 I purchased three years ago for €1,000. ERS Achieving my goal would require cycling BY common sense.SoIasked experienced cy- clists, nutritionists and other experts for ad- MICHAEL vice.And Ispent ayear putting that know- Travel doesn’t have to be a bucket-list rush. Rediscover the joys of revisiting the same spot how to work (see my training plan, right) on the streets of Pittsburgh, Pa., where I live. THE SANE WAY TO TRAIN // HYPER-OBSESSIVE MILLIONAIRES NEED NOT APPLY returned at least five times and while we were able,tothe point whereIroamed the streets experiences with Aspen were on winter ski BY JEN MURPHY This year’s La Marmotte washeld on July by no means locals,weeventually felt aspecial with the confidenceofabona fide Parisian. breaks and the mountain town lived up to every 4. At dawn, Peterand Ishuffled intothe pad- The myth: Ta ke a sabbatical. The myth: Yo u need to hire a the leaders on my Tu esday group The myth: Yo u’ll never finish attachment to this little town half way around There was never an urgency to rush through expectation. When friends invited me to return dock in Bourgd’Oisans,the starting villageat Yo u’re going to have to devote nutritionist to evaluate your red- rides. unless you’ve pared every gram spent much of my early 20s ticking the world from our owntruehomes.Ithad, in aday of sightseeing and museum hopping, in the summer Ibalked. Aspen wasmywinter the foot of the Alpe d’Huezinsoutheastern your entire life to this endeavor. blood-cell count, monitor your off your bike. Without a €10,000 places offmy“bucket list”:Aweek- away,become our home away from home,of- and getting lost caused pleasurerather than place. But avisit in June revealed it to be just France. Themayor of the town cut the ribbon, diet as you train and prescribe The myth: Yo ur practice runs carbon-frame bike with an elec- end in Paris, a week skiing in Aspen, fering the comfort of familiar faces and rituals. panic because therewas the reassurancethat as lovable—and in manyways morebeautiful. and we were off.After along,slowclimb,we My reality: I have a full-time oat beta-glucan protein shakes. should approximate the distance tronic shifter and Kevlar tires, I aholidayinSt. Bart’s. Thethought of Theconnection I I’dreturn and my city Constantsremained: the truffle fries at Ajax zipped down winding roads overlooking aval- job, friends and other hobbies. I and hill grades of the actual race. you’re toast. returning to aplaceseemed likea felt toward Byron Bay would be waiting with Tavern were just as delicious and my yoga in- ley.“Letthe rabbitsgo,” said Peter, referring still managed to complete La My reality: Yo u can eat like a Be prepared to book a flight to wasteofapassport stamp; amissed opportu- was my first realiza- open arms. structor at Shakti Shala still taught Thursday to ablur of passing Dutch, Danish and Belgian Marmotte. “To go into the Mar- normal person. When I first con- somewhere with similar terrain. My reality: I can’t afford a nity to see another city or foreign land. tion that travel There’s a certain intimacy My returns were a mornings. But seeing Aspen in adifferent sea- riders, whose dangerous downhill speed might motte for the first time, it would tacted Linda Samuels, nutrition- €10,000 bike. Thankfully, I didn’t During university Itook time off to travel shouldn’t be about between you and a city when chance for me to play son allowedmetoget to knowawhole other lead to an early burnout. La Marmotte’s feed be pretty unwise to ride less than ist for Northwestern University’s My reality: There’snoAlps-like need one. “You need a good bike around Australia, determined to see the entire checking places off a out an alternativelife side of atownIthought I’dknown so well. stations,spaced every30kilometers 2,000 [practice] miles,” triathlon club, she sent me a terrain nearby, but Pittsburgh is, that’s adapted to you,” said Mr. countryinsix months.But something surpris- list. It should be you become a revisitor in Paris whereI I’vesincegone back everyseason to see or so, served quartered or- says John Thomas, a 1,200-word email proposing I un- luckily,hilly.Its mostfamous bicy- Thomas, the French cycling ing happened halfway intothe trip.Despite about forming arela- shopped the markets, the Technicolor wildflowers, the orange and anges, dates,bananas and author takes on cycling coach based in dergo tests to measure every- cle race,the DirtyDozen, goesup coach. I rode my €1,000 Caad-10 our cross-countryambitions,myboyfriend tionship with aplace. read novels in cafés gold fall foliage, and of course the magical The e hunks of Camembert. La Marmott France who finished thing from my body fat to sweat 12 of the city’smostextreme in- and paid a fitter to adjust the and Ikept returning to the laid-back hippie There’sacertain intimacybetween youand and sipped natural wines with friends at Néo- winter powder.The beauty of going back to a Scorched by the sun, we 76th in this year’s rate. It made my head spin. clines, including one of the world’s handlebars, seat and pedals to beach town of Byron BayinNew South Wales. acity when youbecome arevisitor. On my bistrots. As arevisitorIdidn’t have the head- placeisthat youcan createrelationships and stopped at all of them. Marmotte. He rides I called Ms. Samuels. All I re- steepest urban streets. It was my body, which, surprisingly, Theconstant excitement and stressofnavi- firsttrip to Paris Ifelt awkwardand insecure, aches of high rentsormundane tasks such as emotionalconnections.When youstart to re- When we finally looped 500 miles a week. ally need to know, I said, was if grueling, but wasIdoing enough? makes a big difference: My pedal gating anew placeevery few days leftuscrav- as if on afirst date. Therewas the immediate taking out the garbage. Paris and Iwereal- turn, you realize that travel isn’t just about back to the foot of Alpe His 2,000-mile it’s OK to eat spaghetti and drink Iasked SteveCummings, aPitts- strokes felt more efficient. ing our simple Byron Bayroutine: lazy morn- attraction of somethingnew and different, yet lowedtobeinapermanent honeymoon phase. discovery. It’sabout rediscoveryand remind- d’Huez, 164 kilometersand 10 recommendation is a beer. “There’s no question carbs burgh semiproracer, foradvice. Though satisfied with my bi- ingssipping flat whites from ourfavoritecafé, also acertain fear of the unknown, so Iwalked As with anyrelationship,there’salways the ing ourselves to keep our eyes wide open— hourslater,Peter decided not bare minimum. I are a preferential fuel for the His counsel: patience. “Go easy cycle, I questioned its gears. My hikes up to the Cape Byron Lighthouse,sunset with my head hidden in aguidebook. risk of disappointment. What if my placelets even when we’re somewhere familiar. to tackle it. His feet were started in the winter, body, like protein and fat,”she up those first climbs and don’t smallest back ring had 28 teeth. surfsessions,and barbecues on the beach. We Each time IrevisitedIfelt morecomfort- me down? What if it’s changed? My firstfew Please turn to page W6 numb,his back sore. Also,it taking 45-minute said. However, “there’s still a lot worry about other people.Any- Replacing it with a bigger ring wasalmost 40 degrees.Around spin classes. In we don’t know about nutrition,” body who hard-pedals pastyou would make it easier to pedal up- us,ridersweresplayedleftand April, as the Pitts- she warned. “So instead of tak- up that first hill is going to die,or hill. But was it, as one mechanic [INSIDE] right along the road. Some burgh winter re- ing vitamin pills, it’s better to eat he’sriding the To ur.” suggested, unmanly to get what walked their bikes.Otherswere ceded, I headed a mix of real fruits and vegeta- But how was I going to find a cyclists call a granny gear? being carted off in ambulances.
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