W16 | Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. GEAR & GADGETS

W5 W14

Reality Bikes STYLE |TRAVEL |FOOD |DRINK |DESIGN |GEAR|PROPERTY |CULTURE |SPORTS Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015 WSJ.com/life Manywho undertakearduous amateur racesgiveupeverything to prepare. One man bucks the trend RF SECOND SIGHT BY JOHN W. MILLER Aspen in fall and summer MOMENT /

CERTAIN AMATEUR BIKE RACES attractspecific GES types of riders. Take cyclosportives,competi- IMA tiverides over the same terrain as raceslikethe GETTY

Tour de Francecourse.Maybe it’sthe expense / of traveling to Europe during the high season, V when the most popular cyclosportives areheld. SNO Maybe it’sthe notorious difficulty of the rides, PO which canspan 160 kilometers. Whatever the GES; reason, the typical rider is amoneyed weekend IMA warrior—someone with the time and financial GETTY means to invest in asophisticated training regi- / men, not to mention afive-figurebike. HOEN

In other words, not me. SC KIPP ,

Iwas up forthe challenge,but I LEFT OM wasn’tgoing to blowupmy FR savings account or my social life

Nevertheless, ayear ago, my former boss andcurrent cycling buddy,Peter Fritsch, pro- posedweride La Marmotte,one of the most famous and taxing cyclosportives.Itruns 174 kilometersthrough the rugged French Alps and culminates in aclimb to the legendaryAlpe d’Huez(elevation: 1,880 meters). ATour moun- tain stageusually calls forbetween 3,000 and 4,500metersoftotal climbing.LaMarmotte? Over 5,000.It’snot unusual forathirdofthe riderstogiveupbeforethe finish line. Iwas up forthe challenge, but on afew conditions: Iwasn’t going to blowupmysav- ingsaccount or my social life, hireacoach or calculatemyVO2 Max (oxygencapacity). I waswilling to train hard, but reasonably.And instead of investing in a€10,000 ultralight bike to shave a few kilos off my ride, I stuck Many HappyReturns with the trusty 8-kilo Cannondale Caad-10 I

purchased three years ago for €1,000. ERS

Achieving my goal would require cycling BY common sense.SoIasked experienced cy-

clists, nutritionists and other experts for ad- MICHAEL vice.And Ispent ayear putting that know- Travel doesn’t have to be a bucket-list rush. Rediscover the joys of revisiting the same spot how to work (see my training plan, right) on the streets of Pittsburgh, Pa., where I live. THE SANE WAY TO TRAIN // HYPER-OBSESSIVE MILLIONAIRES NEED NOT APPLY returned at least five times and while we were able,tothe point whereIroamed the streets experiences with Aspen were on winter ski BY JEN MURPHY This year’s La Marmotte washeld on July by no means locals,weeventually felt aspecial with the confidenceofabona fide Parisian. breaks and the mountain town lived up to every 4. At dawn, Peterand Ishuffled intothe pad- The myth: Ta ke a sabbatical. The myth: Yo u need to hire a the leaders on my Tu esday group The myth: Yo u’ll never finish attachment to this little town half way around There was never an urgency to rush through expectation. When friends invited me to return dock in Bourgd’Oisans,the starting villageat Yo u’re going to have to devote nutritionist to evaluate your red- rides. unless you’ve pared every gram spent much of my early 20s ticking the world from our owntruehomes.Ithad, in aday of sightseeing and museum hopping, in the summer Ibalked. Aspen wasmywinter the foot of the Alpe d’Huezinsoutheastern your entire life to this endeavor. blood-cell count, monitor your off your bike. Without a €10,000 places offmy“bucket list”:Aweek- away,become our home away from home,of- and getting lost caused pleasurerather than place. But avisit in June revealed it to be just France. Themayor of the town cut the ribbon, diet as you train and prescribe The myth: Yo ur practice runs carbon-frame bike with an elec- end in Paris, a week skiing in Aspen, fering the comfort of familiar faces and rituals. panic because therewas the reassurancethat as lovable—and in manyways morebeautiful. and we were off.After along,slowclimb,we My reality: I have a full-time oat beta-glucan protein shakes. should approximate the distance tronic shifter and Kevlar tires, I aholidayinSt. Bart’s. Thethought of Theconnection I I’dreturn and my city Constantsremained: the truffle fries at Ajax zipped down winding roads overlooking aval- job, friends and other hobbies. I and hill grades of the actual race. you’re toast. returning to aplaceseemed likea felt toward Byron Bay would be waiting with Tavern were just as delicious and my yoga in- ley.“Letthe rabbitsgo,” said Peter, referring still managed to complete La My reality: Yo u can eat like a Be prepared to book a flight to wasteofapassport stamp; amissed opportu- was my first realiza- open arms. structor at Shakti Shala still taught Thursday to ablur of passing Dutch, Danish and Belgian Marmotte. “To go into the Mar- normal person. When I first con- somewhere with similar terrain. My reality: I can’t afford a nity to see another city or foreign land. tion that travel There’s a certain intimacy My returns were a mornings. But seeing Aspen in adifferent sea- riders, whose dangerous downhill speed might motte for the first time, it would tacted Linda Samuels, nutrition- €10,000 bike. Thankfully, I didn’t During university Itook time off to travel shouldn’t be about between you and a city when chance for me to play son allowedmetoget to knowawhole other lead to an early burnout. La Marmotte’s feed be pretty unwise to ride less than ist for Northwestern University’s My reality: There’snoAlps-like need one. “You need a good bike around Australia, determined to see the entire checking places off a out an alternativelife side of atownIthought I’dknown so well. stations,spaced every30kilometers 2,000 [practice] miles,” triathlon club, she sent me a terrain nearby, but Pittsburgh is, that’s adapted to you,” said Mr. countryinsix months.But something surpris- list. It should be you become a revisitor in Paris whereI I’vesincegone back everyseason to see or so, served quartered or- says John Thomas, a 1,200-word email proposing I un- luckily,hilly.Its mostfamous bicy- Thomas, the French cycling ing happened halfway intothe trip.Despite about forming arela- shopped the markets, the Technicolor wildflowers, the orange and anges, dates,bananas and author takes on cycling coach based in dergo tests to measure every- cle race,the DirtyDozen, goesup coach. I rode my €1,000 Caad-10 our cross-countryambitions,myboyfriend tionship with aplace. read novels in cafés gold fall foliage, and of course the magical The e hunks of Camembert. La Marmott France who finished thing from my body fat to sweat 12 of the city’smostextreme in- and paid a fitter to adjust the and Ikept returning to the laid-back hippie There’sacertain intimacybetween youand and sipped natural wines with friends at néo- winter powder.The beauty of going back to a Scorched by the sun, we 76th in this year’s rate. It made my head spin. clines, including one of the world’s handlebars, seat and pedals to beach town of Byron BayinNew South Wales. acity when youbecome arevisitor. On my bistrots. As arevisitorIdidn’t have the head- placeisthat youcan createrelationships and stopped at all of them. Marmotte. He rides I called Ms. Samuels. All I re- steepest urban streets. It was my body, which, surprisingly, Theconstant excitement and stressofnavi- firsttrip to Paris Ifelt awkwardand insecure, aches of high rentsormundane tasks such as emotionalconnections.When youstart to re- When we finally looped 500 miles a week. ally need to know, I said, was if grueling, but wasIdoing enough? makes a big difference: My pedal gating anew placeevery few days leftuscrav- as if on afirst date. Therewas the immediate taking out the garbage. Paris and Iwereal- turn, you realize that travel isn’t just about back to the foot of Alpe His 2,000-mile it’s OK to eat spaghetti and drink Iasked SteveCummings, aPitts- strokes felt more efficient. ing our simple Byron Bayroutine: lazy morn- attraction of somethingnew and different, yet lowedtobeinapermanent honeymoon phase. discovery. It’sabout rediscoveryand remind- d’Huez, 164 kilometersand 10 recommendation is a beer. “There’s no question carbs burgh semiproracer, foradvice. Though satisfied with my bi- ingssipping flat whites from ourfavoritecafé, also acertain fear of the unknown, so Iwalked As with anyrelationship,there’salways the ing ourselves to keep our eyes wide open— hourslater,Peter decided not bare minimum. I are a preferential fuel for the His counsel: patience. “Go easy cycle, I questioned its gears. My hikes up to the Cape Byron Lighthouse,sunset with my head hidden in aguidebook. risk of disappointment. What if my placelets even when we’re somewhere familiar. to tackle it. His feet were started in the winter, body, like protein and fat,”she up those first climbs and don’t smallest back ring had 28 teeth. surfsessions,and barbecues on the beach. We Each time IrevisitedIfelt morecomfort- me down? What if it’s changed? My firstfew Please turn to page W6 numb,his back sore. Also,it taking 45-minute said. However, “there’s still a lot worry about other people.Any- Replacing it with a bigger ring wasalmost 40 degrees.Around spin classes. In we don’t know about nutrition,” body who hard-pedals pastyou would make it easier to pedal up- us,ridersweresplayedleftand April, as the Pitts- she warned. “So instead of tak- up that first hill is going to die,or hill. But was it, as one mechanic [INSIDE] right along the road. Some burgh winter re- ing vitamin pills, it’s better to eat he’sriding the To ur.” suggested, unmanly to get what walked their bikes.Otherswere ceded, I headed a mix of real fruits and vegeta- But how was I going to find a cyclists call a granny gear? being carted off in ambulances. outdoors. I cobbled bles.” Serious athletes, she said, course around Pittsburgh that “Get the bigger ring, you’ll be HOW FLORIDA Idecided to go on alone.I together a routine: don’t drink booze at all. mirrored the Marmotte’s full 110 glad you have it on that last hill,” MADE HER stopped to splash my facewith 25-mile rides be- I ate fruit and eggs in the miles? Tu rns out I didn’t need to. said Mr. Cummings. “Riders from Chris Evert W12 waterspouting from arock,and Ichattedwith fore work, and one or two morning, a bountiful salad at “You just need to ride 60% of Chicago make fun of Pittsburgh two Brits. “It’stoo hot foramateurs,” said one. tougher rides on weekends. De- lunch, and pasta and fish or the length you’re training for,” cyclists because we have easier Inodded, and stumbled toward my bike. spite not riding much outdoors in chicken for dinner. I avoided pizza said Aaron Stein, an amateur gears, but the only thing they Did I have the legs to finish? the first three months, I’d and junk food, and abstained racer and co-owner of Kindred have to climb is the wind.” Thepracticemiles,and all those Pittsburgh counted 2,500 milestotal by the from alcohol five days a week. In Cycles in Pittsburgh. “On race I got the granny gear, and si- hills,had liftedmylimits. It hurt.Icrossed big day—all without ruining my two months, I dropped 10 day, the adrenaline will carry you lently sang its praises as I plod- the line with a time of 10 hours and 57 min- social life or quitting work. pounds and began riding with the rest of the way.” ded up Alpe d’Huez. —J.M. utes—3,363rd of the 7, 500 who started. CRICKET MATCH Wine meets whites W5 QUICK MARCH The GAT steps up W4 SEPARATED Success of divided living W8 W2 | Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015|W15 CULTURE MANSION FLOWER SCHOOL GreaterOutdoors Cool Katz Forarefreshingly restrained summer bouquet, floral designer LindseyTaylor riffsonalandscape painting by AlexKatz Old and new, in formal gardens, lush EVERYSUMMER since 1954, the to offer little to work from, no it? Aflowery arrangement with Brooklyn-born painter Alex Katz gesture at all. But, the longer I showy blooms didn’t feel right: It countryside or untamed wilderness, sculpture has migrated north to the town of looked, the more I began to appre- needed to feel modern and simpli- Lincolnville, Maine, where he ciate how his zoomed-in focus had fied and, aboveall, mid-summery. parks dedicated to modern and contemporary paints large-scale, pared-down a moody, mesmerizing quality that So I went with a selection of landscapes inspired by the coun- engulfs the viewer, and I saw how just three plants: a dark purple art are now found around the globe, displaying tryside. Now 87, Mr. Katz, best I could interpret it. fountain grass that echoed the known for portraits whose un- I chose “4 pm” (2014), a large dark branches in the painting, to monumental works in harmony—or in eye- painterly flatness anticipated pop vertical landscape with elegant frame the left side of the arrange- art, is more popular than ever— brushwork so characteristically ment; white astilbe to suggest the opening dissonance—with the natural beauty through Sept. 6, he’s the subject reductive it barely registers, cou- shimmering effect of the water of a wide-ranging retrospective, pled with an almost cartoonlike and sky; and the silvery-tan feath- of their surroundings. Here are five to put on “This is Now,” at Atlanta’s High flat line. I loved the palette of ery seed heads of the early bloom- Museum of Art. chartreuse-yellow, creamy white, ing pulsatilla. your wish list. —Judy Fayard Choosing his work as my jump- grays, brown and a hint of blue My goal was to mimic the ing-off point for this month’s ar- for the house. tremulous, late-afternoon light in rangement seemed a significant Ihappened to have an upright, Mr. Katz’s canvas, with a similarly floral challenge. His style appears angular ceramic vessel with simi- limited range of colors, reflecting larly emphatic lines and citrus-yel- the haze that often settles in the A MIDSUMMER’S DREAM Feathery astilbe adds an evocativesoftness to lowtint, but what exactly to put in sky on a hot July day. the bouquet, left, based on Alex Katz’s 2014 painting ‘4 pm,’ right

STEPHEN KENT JOHNSON FORTHE WALL STREET JOURNAL, FLORAL STYLING BY LINDSEY TAYLOR, PROP STYLING BY NIDIA CUEVA(ARRANGEMENT); ALEX KATZ/GAVIN BROWN’SENTERPRISE/VAGA, NEW YORK, NY,PHOTOGRAPH BY THOMASMÜLLER (INSPIRATION) ADVERTISEMENT ON. THOMPS LETT L. . Y .C /J JERR MUY C./ C. DU CETIME PA O/S SUVER LALANNE/DOMAINE DI UDE MARK CLA ART WALK Mark di Suvero’s ‘Mozart’s Birthday’ (1989), left, and ‘Frog Legs’ (2002) at Storm King AN APPLE A DAY Claude Lalan’s ‘Pomme de New York’ (2006) at Domaine du Muy Naples, Florida SADDLE RIVER, NEW JERSEY WATER MILL, NEW YORK  STORM KING ART CENTER, NEW YORK  DOMAINE DU MUY, FRANCE Covering 200 hectares in the Hudson River Valley, 97 kilometers north of Manhattan, Storm King was Officially opened this week, this newsculpturepark wascreated by Jean-Gabriel Mitterrand Minto Single-Family Estate Homes located in an area famous for This Saddle River estate, offered for the first time, includes agracious, Become enchanted by the grandeur of this home set on 5+/- landscaped founded in 1960 by local businessmen Ralph E. Ogden and H. Peter Stern and now houses 100-plus (nephewofthe former French president), whose Paris gallery has focused on sculpturesinceits extraordinarygolf communities. TwinEagles boasts not just one championship slate roof manor colonial and asubstantial carriage house, designed solely for acres and offering six en-suite bedrooms. Indoors, the layout provides a sculptures dating from post-World War II to present day. Landscaping is key here: A number of the founding in 1988. Near the town of Le Muy,north of St.Tropez, the 8-hectareprivatepark offers course awarded “Best New Private Course in America” by Golf Magazine, but fun and relaxation. Aunique opportunity where two contiguous premier East gracious living room, formal dining room, chef’s kitchen and additional rooms Hill lots, totaling over 4.5 acres, provide the sought-after private setting for the throughout. Outdoors features heated pool, vine-shaded loggia, pool house works are site-specific; others are precisely placed in sites tailored for them. There are also earthworks, arugged, 1.6-kilometer-long trail through pine trees, cork oaksand herb-scentedshrubs, dotted two 18-hole, tour-quality courses and aspectacular 47,000 sq. ft. countryclub lavished with everyimaginable amenity.Best of all, golf membership initiation ultimate in entertaining and enjoyment. and asecluded tennis court. Whatever your pleasure, this house is the perfect for which landscaping is the artist’s medium, including Maya Lin’s sumptuous, 4.5-hectare “Storm King with almost 40 sculptures, some site-specific. The opening exhibition, assembled by artistic fee is included with everyMinto new home purchase. home for all seasons. Wavefield” (2009), a joyously undulating seven-row sea of grass. Visit on foot, by tram or bike (rentals director Edward Mitterrand and curator Simon Lamunière, includes worksbyJohn Armleder, $11,900,000 Co-Exclusive: $4,975,000 www.292RosesGroveRoad.com from $8 an hour) to take in works by artists including , Mark di Suvero, Barbara Hep- Antony Gormley, Subodh Gupta, Keith Haring, CarstenHöller,Yayoi Kusama, Claude and François- From the low $500s to over$1million mintofla.com worth, Sol LeWitt, Alexander Liberman, Henry Moore, Roy Lichtenstein, , , Xavier Lalanne, Arik Levy and Sol LeWitt.Ahouse, redesigned by architect India Mahdavi, and Marron Gildea Realtors Saunders &Associates Nam June Paik and Beverly Pepper. $15, open Wed.-Sun., hours vary from 10 a.m.-8 p.m., April-November; gardens by celebrated landscape architect Louis Benech areset to open on the ground next year. Old Pleasant Hill Road, Mountainville; stormking.org By appointment only May-October; 83490LeMuy; domainedumuy.com Minto Communities NancyFalk, Broker Associate Cathy Tweedy phone: 888.379.9868 phone: 201.447.6100 cell: 201.294.3247 [email protected] phone: 917.539.7374 [email protected]

OLIVER RANCH, CALIFORNIA  Steve and Nancy Oliver bought this 40-hectare ranch in Sonoma County in 1981 to graze a herd of sheep. The couple began supplying restaurants with organic lamb, built a weekend house, and commissioned their first sculpture, Judith Shea’s “Shepherd’s Muse,” in 1985. Since then, 18 site- specific works have been specially commissioned. Tours, which Mr. Oliver often leads, are used to help fund nonprofit organizations and the two- and-a-half-hour walk takes in works by Terry Al- len, Bill Fontana, Bruce Nauman, , Ursula Von Rydingsvard and Roger Berry, whose 3.5 meter-long “Darwin” steel arch tracks the summer and winter paths of the sun and casts precise shadows on solstices and equinoxes. Donation, by appointment only, April 15-June 1, 141 LONG NECK POINT,DARIEN, CONNECTICUT FINGER LAKES, UPSTATENEW YORK CENTRAL COAST, CALIFORNIA Sept. 15-Nov. 1; 22205 River Rd., Geysersville; oliverranchfoundation.org This spectacular 2.37 acre waterfront estate is just 50 minutes to NYC! Stella Maris, “Star of the Sea” located in the historical Village of Skaneateles 900 acreplus California Central Coast Ranch available for purchase or joint Located on Long Neck Point, it includes a2003 built architect designed 7,830SF on 9.67 acres with 881’ of level lake frontage providing abreathtaking panoramic venture. 850 acres more or less plantable. Excellent water area, two AG wells main house, anewly refurbished gunite pool, a1,675SF pool house, a400SF lake view– all within walking distance to the village shops and restaurants. The existing PG&E natural gas and electricity on site. CA Highway 46 frontage and studio/office building, tennis court and brand new dock. Very private, yet close to property contains amain house, two guest houses, bath house, and boathouse; identity. downtown Darien, train, and Pear Tree Point Beach. MLS#30447 total 25,615 SF of buildings. MLS#: S336628

$13,495,000 www.raveis.com www.pioneercos.com Price upon request UMAN

NA William Raveis Exceptional Properties

UCE Elaine Falkenberg Albert Giannino M. P. Wilkinson phone: 917.941.5362 phone: 315.200.1842 [email protected] phone: 949.474.7004 [email protected]

STEP TO IT NCH/BR

Bruce Nauman’s “Untitled” (1998-99) RA cuts through Oliver Ranch OLIVER To Advertise Call: +44 (0) 207-572-2124 W14 | Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015|W3 MANSION CULTURE FAST FIVE T MBER MUSEUM Counter Offers LA CTION LLE OPEN-AIR CO

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Along with a major cache of 26 viewpoint for Edvard Munch’s 1893 painting Henry Moores, the lineup includes Rodin, Miró, “The Scream.” (Today visitors can create their Maillol, Léger, Zadkine, Noguchi, Saint-Phalle, Barry own “Scream” using a frame from a performance Flanagan, Lynn Chadwick, Antony Gormley, Carl in 2013 by Serbian artist Marina Abramović, Milles and French sculptor Gabriel Loire, whose marking Munch’s 150th anniversary.) Set in thick “Symphonic Sculpture” is an 18-meter tower lined woods and grassy clearings populated by deer Julian Schnabel’s ‘Silencio’ (1988) in stained glass with a circular staircase rising in- and foxes, the Ekebergparken Sculpture Park, side. The younger-set fave: “Woods of Net,” an funded by Norwegian collector and businessman immense, brilliantly colored hand-knit net by To- Christian Ringnes, opened in 2013 with an eclectic shiko Horiuchi MacAdam. Meant for kids to jump collection of some 30 works by artists including in and bounce around, it’s strung inside a timber Rodin, Renoir, Dalí, Maillol, James Turrell, Jenny What’s Hot in dome built using ancient temple techniques. Holzer, Jake and Dinos Chapman, Damien Hirst 1,600 yen (€12), open daily 9 a.m.-5 p.m.; Ninotaira and Louise Bourgeois. Free, open daily; Kongsveien 1121, Hakone; hakone-oam.or.jp 23, Oslo; ekebergparken.com Provence? Art JOHN’SISLAND –VEROBEACH, FLORIDA BOCA/DELRAY BEACH, FLORIDA MIDDLETOWN,RHODE ISLAND Located in the exclusiveseaside community of John’sIsland, this 4 Incredible opportunity at Seven Bridges -brand new homes in ahighly PARADISE. Magnificent 5bedroom oceanfront with unparalleled viewsof bedroom, 12,303± GSF Gem Island estate offers breathtaking sunsets, lappool, amenitized non-golf community in the Boca Raton /Delray Beach area. Generous Second Beach and the Atlantic. Situated on 1.55 acres on Easton’sPointwith The South of France is the country’s art hub this summer dock with lift, and seawall-protected sandybeach. Unsurpassed features include, features include impact glass, marble countertops, gourmet kitchens and deeded access to Elephant Rock,anatural saltwater pool, and rocky beach. custom finishes, screened lanai with fireplace, librarywith fireplace &bar,and 30,000 sq. ft. club. LowHOA fees, close to world-class shopping, greatschools. Sun-filled and spacious offering casual areas with acombination family, Theexhibit on the 67-year-old Mr. stunning tree-top views from the upper level. Inquire today! diningarea, and kitchen with walls of windows, 2-storyliving room,master BY JASON CHOW Shore, the director of the photographypro- suite with balcony, and finished lower level. gram at BardCollege, includes around 400 $8,000,000 www.JohnsIslandRealEstate.com From the $700’sto$2million glhomes.com $5,250,000GustaveWhite.com THIS MONTH, art watchersinFranceare printsand spans his career,including sev- looking south—from Paris to the olive eral from his “Uncommon Places,” aseries groves and ruin-bedecked cities of of early color photographs of 1970s Ameri- John’sIsland Real Estate Company GL Homes Gustave White Sotheby’sInternational Realty Provence. Thelongtime Rencontres d’Arles cana, with afocus on the motel rooms, phone: 772.231.0900, 800.327.3153 e: [email protected] phone: 800.875.2179 phone: 401.849.3000 photographyfestival kicked off with afocus rusting neon signs and carcultureofthe on two American greats. In Avignon, just time.The artist says that while making the 44 kilometersnorth, arecently founded series,“Iwas trying to understand how museum with works by Cy Twombly, Jean- photographs function, howathree-dimen- Michel Basquiat and Anselm Kiefer re- sional world is translated intoaflat image.” opened aftertwo yearsofrenovations. In Avignon, Paris-based dealer Yves SamStourdzé,director of the Arles Lambert had been showing his collection festival, believes the two events areput- in a mansion in the old city since 2000. In ting the region—long known forsummer 2012, he donated the art to the French theater and music events—on the art- state—the most artworks donated to the world map.“Foravisitor,the question French government since 1906. Then came todayis, ‘WhereamIgoing to spend two years of renovation of the mansion three days and see great culture?’ This and expansion into the adjacent building, part of Provenceisnow in the game,and costing €15 million. The 556-work collec- we’rehappy with that,” he says. tion of late-20th century art, one of It’sMr. Stourdzé’s firstyear at the France’s most significant, reopened on helm of the festival, which has been go- July 10. Avignon is already famed for its ing since1970. With the art world watch- summertime performing-arts festival. ing,he’sfocused two of the largest of his “I don’t have the means foraprivate 35 exhibits, featuring around 3,500 works museum, but Iwanted to keep the collec- TAMPAAREA, FLORIDA WILSHIRE BLVD., LOSANGELES, CA CRESTED BUTTE, COLORADO overall, on American photographers tion intact. Donating to the statewas my Walker Evans and Stephen Shore. best solution,” Mr.Lambert says. Florida’sBest 55+ Resort Lifestyle at Valencia Lakes – is easily EXCLUSIVE GRANDEUR: Aluxurycollection of 35 residences overlooking the Double TopRanch is aspectacular custom-built log home featuring agrand TheEvans showdives deep intohis leg- Themuseum inaugurated anew space accessible from both Tampa and Sarasota. Alifestyle director offers clubs,events, Los Angeles CountryClub and Beverly Hills. Furnished turn-key models draw residence of 3bedrooms, 3baths, 3,197 sq. ft. and guest cabins. Located acyasajournalist. Knownbest forim- fortemporaryexhibitions with ashowfo- 13 miles from downtown Crested Butte. This fisherman’sparadise has atrout shows and activities in a27,000 sq. ft. clubhouse. Enjoypools, bistro, fitness and inspiration from the home collections of leading international designers. Suites promptu portraitsofordinaryand oftenim- cusing on PatriceChéreau, aFrench op- everything from tennis to softball and more with new villas and single-family from 1,700 to 8, 215 sf –among the largest of anyLAluxurycondominium. BW stream running through the entire property and is surrounded by U.S. National poverished Americans,Evans worked for eraand theater director and filmmaker homes from the $200’s-$400’s. Trybefore you buy. is the NA flagship of Emaar Properties –owners of the world’stallest building Forests, situated on forty acres along Cement Creek. Stay &Play for 3days and 2nights for $99! and developer of the world’sfirst Armani hotel. BeverlyWestResidences.com several magazines including Life, Harpers who died in 2013.There’salso an exhibi- Bazaar,Vanity Fair and Fortune,apublica- tion featuring pieces from themain col- From the $200’stothe $400’sglhomes.com From the mid $3M’s. Penthouse prices on request. $3,998,000 DoubleTopRanch.com tion that employedhim from 1945 to 1965. lection, including works by Christo, Rich- ARKEN

Teles Properties GP TheArles exhibition, curated by Mr. ardSerraand Julian Schnabel. Stourdzé and longtime Evans expert Da- “I’m from the South of France, and I GL Homes The Beverly West Residences Lauren Scott vid Campany, looks at the photographer wanted the art to be based in the south,” phone: 800.495.6406 phone: 310.550.0581 email: [email protected] phone: 714.658.5590 [email protected] L/EKEBER

AA as apioneer in modern magazine design Mr.Lambert says.“Iwanted to decentral-

KV and places his printsnexttothe final izeusaway from Paris.Onatrain, we’re

AR magazine pagetoshowhow journalism lessthan three hoursaway from Paris. IV To Advertise Call: +44 (0) 207-572-2124 INTO THE WOODS Sean Henry’s ‘Walking Woman’ (2010) and art intertwine. It’sreally not far.” W4 | Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015|W13 STYLE & FASHION

LOVE STORY BY LUKE LEITCH

AS IWILTED waiting forthe Yohji Ya- mamotoshowtobegin last month in Paris,myseatmate,veteran German MarchMadness stylist Klaus Stockhausen—whose knowledgeofmenswear is as ency- '"!'*#21 !: 3 !A01H8F18,G /%*/*'= #:*&)D24% (2+21 4@ 3 !AH10,C1H,G "*+ .(PNLBd() O>GGG i5$d ,(N.kUBP WNQ( 3-NM. Y(BiNPi1> fb7 84 (idBd( Ke YUkPU#?BPd i(BiU)( (idBd( KUdW @.(BdWdBSUPk 4NQ;R(d(RI .(PNLBd() ,(N.kUBP i(d NP NL(. jokes and brokeintoasmile of recog- for the German military is an ideal, under-the-radar sneaker Ke(J;BPiUL( A(J;(.dRI )(iUkP() NMd)NN. d(..B?(i: d(PPUi ?d> ;NNR> kM(id WNMi(: LU(Ki $.NQ dW( +B.@N. dN ]BPdM?S(d YNMP): cB?.(i: ,M(id WNMi(> W(Bd() ;NNR> d(PPUi ?NM.d: nition. It wasdirected at my sneak- 6BU.)ADB.P(. XM.;UP Z(BR 0idBd(> *P?: ZN@(.d [BMR [.N;(.dU(i +NMRUWBP _BK.(P?( ers. “Ah, the armyshoe! Iused to `BdW(.UP( 4W(H ^BRSUP &GG< c dWNMkWd$MRRIV.(PNLBd() iUJV@().NNQ FP)(. ?NPid.M?dUNP% 0idBd( WNQ(> RBS( LU(Ki> ing sneakerheads refertoit. It be- O:"b B?.(i> ;.ULBd( )N?S BP) iBP)I @(B?W: NL(.RNNSUPk kNR$ ?NM.i( KUdW <:f B?.(i BP) ;NNR: 4NRNPUBR dM?S() BKBI NP <:O' B?.(i KUdW ;NNR: )(iUkP() $N. 5MBRUdI A($#?U(P?I: ganduring alate-night, wine- ZN@(.d [BMR [.N;(.dU(i +NMRUWBP _BK.(P?( +NMRUWBP _BK.(P?( aNWP Z: DNN) [.N;(.dU(i fueled browse on online retailer Mr YLE)

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WHY BE BLAND? Sure, a scoop of vanilla ice cream is an undeniable classic that does the Shorts That AreaBoreNoMore job on a sweltering day, but wouldn’t it be less yawningly predictable to try some Wild- berry Lavender or at least Rocky Road? The same is true when it comes to summer fash- ion. There’s nothing wrong with your trusty, garden-variety khaki shorts, but a somewhat bolder—though by no means clownish or ridiculous—pair can give your polo- or T-shirt- Three easy upgrades to your summer shorts wardrobe based ensemble a stylish boost. Try out one of these strategically tweaked options the next time you pick up a pair and leave the blah world of beige behind. —Jacob Gallagher "&((&# $% &'!

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=bG<" _MJM.I [N.d$NRUN *Pd(.PBdUNPBRj:\$$(.UPk Ui iM@T(?d dN (..N.i> NQUiiUNPi> ?WBPk( N$ ;.U?(> N. KUdW).BKBR KUdWNMd PNdU?(: [.U?(i QBI WBL( @((P ?NPL(.d() $.NQ N.UkUPBR ?M..(P?I Bd dUQ( N$ ;.UPdUPk BP) QBI )U$$(. $.NQ ?M..(Pd .Bd(i: 8RR UP$N.QBdUNP ?NPiU)(.() THE REFINED CARGO If these shorts don’t look like the THE SUPERIOR SLIP-ON Inspired by the streamlined style THE NON-SCHLUBBYPLEATWell-placed single pleats—and .(RUB@R(h WNK(L(.>UdWBi @((P iM;;RU() @I dWU.);B.dU(i BP) iWNMR) PNd @( .(RU() NP Bi B??M.Bd( N. ?NQ;R(d(: 05MBR +NMiUPk \;;N.dMPUdI: baggy, balloon-pocketed cargoes you wore to college keggers, favoredbyrock climbers, these minimalistcottontwill shorts do a nice pocket detail—add visual intrigue to these shorts. consider it a good thing. UtilityShorts, €142, clubmonaco.com sportywith subtlety. Original GShorts, $50/€45,gramicci.com Wallace & Barnes Japanese Indigo Shorts, €49, jcrew.com W12 | Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015|W5 MANSION EATING & DRINKING Secrets of an Ice Princess ON WINE: WILL LYONS Chris Evert’s serenity on the tennis court was forged in the Florida sun Top Wines Knock Cricketers for Six ‘What they didn’t IWAS THE KIND OF KID who needed Florida tournamentswhen Iwas 11, understand is that my to be pushed. I was easygoing and and pretty soon competing and win- obedient, but as soon as Isensed my ning became a way of life. strength was the mental ENGLAND CRICKETER Stuart Broad 10 yards away from us, which was responsibilities on the tennis court, Thereason Idid so well so part of the game’ has alarge collection of un- really quite special.” success came quickly.Ialways kept quickly is that Ipracticed forhours opened Champagne bottles.The Cricket and wine have always my composure, which rattled my op- each day—at nightunder the lights seam bowler and left-handed been happy bedfellows. Not only ponents. While Iseemed serene,I afterschool and in the mornings batsman keeps them in his Not- is the game loved and played in actually wasstudying their weak- and eveningsonweekends.InFlor- tinghamshirehome,carefully some of the world’s great wine nesses so I could win. ida youcould playoutdoorsyear- stored on their side so the corks countries, but—unlike any other My parents had five children—I round, which gavemeanedgeover won’t dryout. But unlikemost sport—the gentle rhythms of the wasthe second oldest. My father, those who played only five months amateur wine collectors, he has game lend themselves to a glass Jimmy, wasatennis proand taught of the year. no plans to open them. of wine. “Is that why everyone’s all of us to play. When Iwas 5, he Ididn’t have anyinjuries as akid always asleep by 4 p.m.?” Mr. took me to the HolidayPark Tennis or as apro,partly because Iwas Broad laughs. Center in Fort Lauderdale,Fla., raised on claycourts, which are Maybe. But wine and cricket about three minutes from our moreforgiving.Aclaysurfacelet Cricket and wine have also share a connection to the house. I wasn’t happy about going me perfect my groundstrokes and always been happy physical landscape. Both can be at first. Iwas in kindergarten and footwork.Italso helped me think found in spectacular settings. In loved spending time at my girl- and learn howtoconstruct a bedfellows fact, some cricket grounds rival friend’shouse swimming and having point—strategically hitting to the even the greatest vineyards barbecues.Instead, Ihad to hit balls corners. Most of all, Ilearned early Philanthropist John Paul Getty my dad threw to me. that Iwas morepatientand steadier “They’re mementos,” he says, Jr., son of the American industri- Ieasily could have resented my than everyone else.IknewIcould picked up from a cricketing career alist, created perhaps the most father and hated tennis.But Iquickly wear down my opponentsifIjust that has taken him around the beautiful cricket ground at his learned to enjoyitand responded stayed the course and kept cool. world—including wine-producing Wormsley estate in Buckingham- well to my dad, who wasmoreofa As Ibegan winning national countries such as South Africa, shire, England. For Mr. Broad, the stern teacher than atyrant. Besides, tournaments, the media started call- Australia and New Zealand. pitch that takes his breath away is thereweremanyother kids my age ing me the IcePrincess. It wasa “Man of the match,” the crick- Newlands Cricket Ground in Cape playing there, so Ihad fun. time when tennis players were eter smiles. “Every player gets a Town, set against the magnificent From the street, our modest starting to showemotion on the bottle of Champagne but we tend backdrop of Table Mountain. one-story, three-bedroom house court. What they didn’t understand not to open them.” They stand to “It’s the one ground where, looked likeany other on the block. is that my strength was the mental remind him of happy times, like even when you’re playing and fo- AfterIturned proatage 18,my part of the game. when he took six Australian wick- cusing on the cricket, it stops you parentsadded an upstairsbedroom Iwas moreofalistener,some- ets for 50 runs to clinch the Ashes in your tracks,” he says. South Af- suiteinthe back formyyounger one who observed and had focus as in Durham in 2013. rican wine is also a favorite. The ILLUSTRATION BY DAVID PLUNKERT sister,Jeanne,and me.She wasa well as killer instincts. Backthen, It’s Ashes time again and, after cricketer says he likes visiting tennis pro, too. we were still using wood a win in Cardiff, England will re- Stellenbosch and is a fan of Meer- DRINKING NOW: THREE WINES FROM VINEYARDS ON THE CRICKET CIRCUIT My mother,Colette,made an racketsand playing on sume hostilities with Australia lust Rubicon, a deep red wine effort to be the counterbalance. clay, which meant this week as they play the second made up of Cabernet Sauvignon, When Iwas home,wenever there wasn’t a lot ACEChris Evert in a 2014 portrait. Test at Lord’s. Which is where we Merlot and Cabernet Franc. 2012 Moss Wood 2014 Hamilton Russell Hambledon Classic talked tennis.She’dtakemeto of powerinthe Left, the Wimbledon champion in meet, just outside the bowler’s Unlike the old days when it Cabernet Sauvignon Pinot Noir $36 or €32 Cuvée $50 or €45 the beach or the mall. Her game. 1974. Below, the tennis star during bar in the historic pavilion. We’re was the norm for teams to have a $65 or €60 Tim Hamilton founded English wine has goal wastocreateanormal As Igot a match in Forest Hills, Queens, in not, however, here to talk about few drinks together at the end of Quitesimply one of the Hamilton Russell come a long way in home lifefor me.She’sthe older,mydad 1971, and at 17 with her family in cricket, but his second love: wine. a day’s play, it’s now all a little the best Australian vineyard in South the past few years one who traveled to stopped pushing Fort Lauderdale, Fla., in 1972 “We are so fortunate with the more regulated. “As a team we do Cabernet Sauvignons Africa’sHemel-en- and Hambledon is a tournamentswith me me.Bythen, he amount of travel we do with celebrate after a win,” Mr. Broad Ihavetasted. Aarde Valleyinthe good example of andwas able to ease sensed Iwas self- cricket that it opens up some says. “We won in Cardiff and Sir Repletewith fruit late1970s. The winery what has been the stress. To my driven. Forhim, it clappedlouder formyopponents wonderful places with good Ian Botham came into the dress- and flowerscents, it is nowinthe capable achieved. Released dad’scredit, he wasnever aboutthe than for me, just to be nice. In the wines,” says Mr. Broad. ing room. It’s usually beer. I’m not has agenerous hands of his son, last year, this Classic stayed home with money. He kept his job early 1970s,everyone fell in love The recent World Cup in Aus- a big beer fan so I’ll always relax mouth feel with a Anthony, who has Cuvée is a blend of the kids. as tennis director at Hol- with Evonne Goolagong. When I tralia and New Zealand was a case with a few glasses of wine.” strong, spicy, oaky changed the style in Chardonnay, Pinot In the 1960s,all of iday Park until he was 70. beat her at aUSTAevent, my mom, in point. “We had a great day at Whoknows? At Lord’s he might flavoronthe finish. recent years. The Meunier and Pinot my friends were into They renamed the center for who already knewEvonne,said to Hardys wines in Adelaide,” he win another bottle of Champagne— Lovers of Australian 2014 has alot of Noir. It’s toasty, with tennis on some level. him in 1997. her after, “Oh Evonne, don’t worry. says. But it was a visit to Dog although Idoubt he’ll open it. wine will find this plum and raspberry attractive fruit and Holiday Park was a cen- My mother wasthe greatest You’ll get her next time.” Point winery in Marlborough, New hardtoresist. fruit with asmooth thrilling, tingling ter of serious tennis ac- tennis mom you could wish for. TodayIliveinBocaRaton,Fla. Zealand, that really inspired. “We  Email Will at [email protected] Alcohol: 14% finish. Alcohol: 13.5% acidity. Alcohol: 12.5% tivity. Istarted winning She wascalm and kind, and even My parentsliveahalf-hour away, were drinking with the grapes just or follow him on Twitter: @Will_Lyons and my brothersand sisterslive within 20 minutes.Ihavea12,000- ADVERTISEMENT square-foot [1,100-square-meter], five-bedroom, Spanish-style house DistinctiveProperties&Estates on 5 acres [2 hectares] in a private development. Why Germany’s Saying Bitter to Beer My tennis academyisseven min- UNITED STATES utes away by car. Sometimes when SUMMER IN GERMANY means one “Barley &Hops” (Gestalten, €40). the335-year-old Schönram Brewery I’m there, I jump into practice ses- 2 4 thing: beer gardens.And while cool- “For decades,therehas been very lit- produced Germany’sfirst India Pale Distinctive sions unannounced. Not long ago, I ingoff with astein of golden beer is tle innovation in the art of brewing.” Ale.And acrossthe country, micro- $&) %*"&(!# '& asked one of the new girls who she 5 the height of leisure, suds—like all But over the past decade, small breweries likeSchoppe Bräu, Hopfen- thoughtIwas when Icame on the 1 3 thingsinGermany—areaveryseri- German breweries have been push- stopfer and BrauKunstKeller have Properties. court. “Some lady,” she said. ousscience. They’reevenregulated ingfor their ownplaceatthe tap. been redefining bier with innovative At my house,Ihaveatennis by their own law, the Reinheitsge- Inspired by the craft beer scene in brews. Even big industryistaking court with a surface similar to the bot, which states that barley, malt, America, they’vebeen breaking free notice; in May, Becks released itsown ones at theU.S.Open. Recently,I waterand yeast arethe only accept- from the constraintsofthe Rein- amber lager and pale ale. was playing with one of my boys— able ingredients. heitsgebot and adding newingredi- TheGerman craftbeer scene is they’re ages 23, 20 and 18—and af- Thecountrytodayhas aflock of ents that are hardly impure. still in itsfledgling days.Mr. Sauer

Select Residential Listings on Friday. AIT)

terashot he said, “Is that the hard- TR (mostly) excellent beers, but it’sthe At Cologne’sFreigeist Bierkultur, says he sells morebeer in the U.S.

ListYour Property Todayin est youcan hit the ball, mom?” I OR light, smooth-drinkingbrews that SebastianSauer and PeterEsser are and Brazil than in the Fatherland. But >;$"& 2*5&;%;A!5 shouted back,“Hey,Iwas No.1for 7 (P rule the roost. “Therewerepockets bottling long-neglected recipes such with so manynew brewscropping up The Wall Street Journal Asia. ZO A#' !*>#&8 #A(*5$A!, yearssoput alid on it.” Here, I’m of variety in places likeBavaria, but as Gose and Lichtenhainer,aswell as each year,it’sonly amatteroftime

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$2(5JISMQ Chris Evert, 60, was the world’s (2); !?AC =P# CN% "GCJ top-ranked women’s professional S 1 KUEHN KUNZ ROSEN KUEHNES 2 FREIGEIST BIERKULTUR 3 SCHÖNRAMER BAYRISCH 4 KEHRWIEDER PROTOTYP 5 BRLO PORTER 7% ABV, €2.30

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ESPN tennis analyst. L- makes foreasysummer drinking. smokinessatrue Lichtenhainer requires. peppery finish. having to conform to either. makes it so enjoyable. W6 | Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015|W11 ADVENTURE & TRAVEL It’s Worth Repeating Yourself

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OK Forage at the Market // Get ataste forCape mandi. Guided by a resident, you’ll delve into landmark 1907 building, is a sf wrap-aroundterrace. kitchen andample storage. LO Town’svibrantfood scene by visiting asmall history and local life. From 795 rand for a four- masterpiece in architecture. WEB: 0019047. $4,475,000. Full service pet-friendly

GES; neighborhood market such as the Old Biscuit hour tour; adulela.com WEB: 0137836. $4,600,000. MichaelPellegrino. co-op. WEB: 0137814. Leslie Lalehzar. Price upon request. IMA Mill, OranjezichtCityFarm or CityBowlMarket. Saddle Up // Ride horseback alongside giraffe, GaetanoMorelloand Go on Safari // See—and snap—the Big Five rhino, wildebeest and zebra at Ant’s Nest and Jeremy Stein. ORNERS

/4C at Simbavati Safari Lodge. Set in Timbavati Ant’s Hill. The sister lodges in northwest Sotheby’s International Realty Downtown Manhattan Brokerage Sotheby’s International Realty East Side Manhattan Brokerage Sotheby’s International RealtyDowntown Manhattan Brokerage Private Game Reserve, the lodge offers game South Africa offer guided trips of the bush +1 212.810.4970 |sothebyshomes.com/nyc +1 212.400.8731 |sothebyshomes.com/nyc +1 212.810.4950 |sothebyshomes.com/nyc

ORNERS drives led by professional photographers. From for riders of all levels. From 3,750 rand a night;

/4C 6,500 rand; simbavati.com waterberg.net PIERSONLAKES, NY SCARSDALE, NY SCARSDALE, NY Luxurylivinginexclusive Stunning8,825 sf Center Spectacular, sundrenched ULKES Learn to Conserve // Get up close and per- See the Other Big Five // Most people come FO waterfrontsetting,inprivate Hall Colonial w/ picturesque Hamptons styleColonialsits sonal with rhino at Molori Safari. Located in here to see the lions, elephants, buffalo, gatedcommunity with circulardrive. Located on a at theend of acul-de-sac in a TIN dock,only50minsfrom quiet street in theheart of primelocationinEdgemont.

JUS Madikwe Game Reserve, which has the high- leopards, and rhino, but the other Big Five—

P: est concentration of rhino in Africa, Molori seals, penguins, sharks, whales and dolphins— NYC. PiersonLakes adjoins theScarsdale estate area,this Nestledamong mature TO helps microchip the animals as part of the are just as impressive. So head to the thousands of acres of parks welcomingresidence situated treesand lush grounds,this

OM andpristinemountainlakes. on 1.83 levelacres of lush property offersrareprivacy

FR park’s conservation effort. Tag along on a day- Western Cape coast, base yourself at eco-luxe 9,300 sf home features rustic property,offers peace and andresortstyle living. long excursion. 18,000 rand, plus 6,500 rand lodge Grootbos and swap your Jeep for a details,4fplcs andprivate tranquility. WEB: 4502130. 3car garage.WEB: 4439284. WISE per rhino tagged; molorisafari.com boat. From 2,790 rand a night; grootbos.com boathouse. 7BR, 5.2 baths. $7,950,000.DawnKnief $3,150,000.Caryn Balamaci. OCK $2,295,000.Richard Ellis andMaryKatchis. [email protected] CL andBrandon Wagner. [email protected] Ellis Sotheby’s International Realty JuliaB.Fee Sotheby’s International Realty JuliaB.Fee Sotheby’s International Realty MY FAVORITE SPOT +1 914.393.0438 |ellissothebysrealty.com +1 914.393.1159 |juliabfee.com +1 917.553.4889 |juliabfee.com CHARLESTON, SC KIAWAH ISLAND,SC WADMALAW ISLAND,SC BEN PUNDOLE KIRSTY CAYLOR JASON ATHERTON TARA BERNERD ThisEuropeanstyle Discover luxuryeco-friendly Magnificentdeepwater Founder of travel website Creative director of ethical London-based Michelin- British interior designer estate with lake viewsand living here at IndigoPark, estate is situated on 3acres captivatingclassical design locatedinthe heartof of pristine highland-only A Hotel Life, vice president fashion label Maiyet starred chef offersincrediblecustom Kiawah Island,rankedas 30 minutes from Charleston, of brand experience at amenities. Gothic features CondéNast’s#2islandinthe SC! Thisclassic Lowcountry Edition Hotels aretastefully combined world. IndigoParkconsists home is completewith with moderntechnology of 16 newconstruction numerous greenfeatures, “The destination I find myself returning to “I love new places as well and am always “Dubai is where Ifound my sense of “The climate, the beach, the healthy lifestyle, includingamedia room, homes, with 4floorplans beautiful landscaping,and over and over again is Berlin. I’ve been hungry for afresh adventure, but there is freedom. My life was all work in the and friends draw me to Miami.... Iworked outdoor kitchen andsmart to choose from,all with top-of-the-linefinishes. eight to 10 times in the last five years, something calming in finding aspot that kitchen but when Igot to Dubai in the ’90s, there as ateenager and it’s one of afew home capabilities. waterviews. $2,095,000.Dan Ravenel. Price upon request. $2,000,000-$3,000,000. always for fun rather than work. I now nourishes your soul. Going back is like Ifound time for myself, learned how to places Icontinuously revisit. Ihave aroutine DanRavenel. H. Middleton Rutledge. have friends who live there and tell me refilling aspiritual well. Santa Teresa, golf and met my wife. Ireturn at least of checking in to my bungalow at the Edi- Daniel Ravenel Sotheby’s International Realty Daniel Ravenel Sotheby’s International Realty Daniel Ravenel Sotheby’s International Relaty about the new shows, parties, pop ups, Costa Rica, is afavorite. Ilearned to surf twice ayear and will open my first tion...taking yoga classes at the Green Mon- +1 843.723.7150 |DanielRavenelSIR.com +1 843.345.9137 |DanielRavenelSIR.com +1 843.723.7150 |DanielRavenelSIR.com cocktail clubs, restaurants and cabarets. there acouple of years ago and was restaurant there later this year on the key and dining in the Design District. Explor- Berlin is a socially leveling city where instantly addicted. Getting back to those marina. Ilove how the city continues to ing foreign lands provides an excitement ©MMXVSotheby’s InternationalRealtyAffiliatesLLC.aRealogy Company. AllRightsReserved. Riverbank,usedwithpermission.Sotheby’s InternationalRealty® is aregisteredtrademark creativity is the currency.... I love that beaches and spending time with the change yet still always feels familiar.” that’s hard to beat, but there is nothing like licensed to Sotheby’sInternational Realty Affiliates LLC. An EqualOpportunity Company. EqualHousing Opportunity. Each Office is IndependentlyOwned andOperated. there’s always something new to discover.” amazing people I’ve met is very special.” going back to aplace that feels like home.” W10 | Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015|W7 ADVENTURE & TRAVEL

THE SACRED VALLEY, PERU An ancient and architectural wonder, this mythical spot has mesmerized travelers for centuries. Build your own dream trip using this itinerary, created with pointers from Cazenove + Loyd.

FIRSTVISIT: RETURN VISIT: ABACO, BAHAMAS LYFORD CAY, BAHAMAS BELVEDERE, CA StepBack in Time // Machu Picchu maybe Get Off the Beaten Track // The Lares Valley, the culmination of your vacation, but there which runs parallel to the Sacred Valley, has Atruewaterfront“belvedere,” Gumelemi Cay. Private Newlybuilt,British Colonial areplenty of other wonders to see in the scenery to matchthe glories of the Inca Trail. A island, 8acres with 3private style6,800 sf,5BR, 5.5 bath with unobstructed viewsof beacheslies within the home offersexpansive golf Golden Gate Bridgeand San Sacred Valley. The ruins of Pisac, an Inca 30-minutedrivefromUrumbamba, it offers the Baker’sBay Golf &Ocean course views. Dramatic Franciscoskyline. 5BR, 4full citadel, arehaunting, and the 500-year-old chancetosee ancientburial grounds, climb in Club community.Justa greatroom, with 18’ vaulted +3halfbathmainresidence agricultural terraces nearbyare amarvel of cavesand meet locals. The bonus?It’scompara- 1minuteboatride to the ceiling. Furnished by plus separate 1BR, 1bath human engineering. tively free of touristhordes. ultra-exclusive resort,golf, renowned designer guestquarters. Gated, private, finediningand more.WEB: Amanda Lindroth.Lifeisless levellawns,multi-car parking. Go to Market // The towns hereare famed Cycle on AncientPaths // Mountain bike 25EWS7. $17,900,000 US. taxingoffshore.WEB: 77941. $15,500,000.Bill Bullockand George.Damianos@ $5,650,000 US. LydiaSarkissian. b.bullock@ fortheir markets. On Tuesday, Thursdayand acrossthe Sacred Valley’sChincheroPlain fol- SothebysRealty.com Nick.Damianos@ deckerbullocksir.com Sunday, the market in Pisac is at its most lowing centuries-old routes. Go slowenough to SothebysRealty.com bustling. Browse stalls forlocal produceand takeinthe scenery,which includes the village Damianos Sotheby’s International Realty Lyford CaySotheby’s International Realty DeckerBullockSotheby’s International Realty unique souvenirs, from ceramics to jewelry. of Chequereq and the beautiful LakeHuaypo.A +1 242.424.9699 |SIRbahamas.com +1 242.376.1841 |SIRlyfordcay.com +1 415.517.7720 |globalestates.com short uphill section brings youtothe circular Hikethe Inca Trail // Skip the four-daytrek Inca ruins of Moray. $125apersonfor aone-day ORINDA, CA PORTOLAVALLEY,CA SAN FRANCISCOBAY AREA, CA forthis one-dayshortcut to Machu Picchu group tour; adventureswithinreach.com Thisnearlynine-acreestateis Custom-built home located Absolutelystunningnew ($68/€61 entry; guide and permitsrequired). designedwithextraordinary in prestigious Portola construction view home. Take the Machu Picchu train from Ollantay- Get Wet // For a fresh perspective of the architecturaldetail. Main Valley.Built to exacting 4BR, 3baths,great room tambo and hop off at kilometer 104 to join Sacred Valley—and an adrenaline rush—white house, twostory carriage specifications with over with vaultedopenbeam the main routetothe sacred citadel. Stop water raft down the Urubamba River. $57; house, sports complex, in all 7,000 sf of living space.This ceilings. Gorgeousfinishes total approx24,000 sf.Solar home offersfirst-in-class includingCalcuttamarble forapicnic near the Inca ruin Winay-Wayna greenperuadventures.com provides electricity forthe infrastructurealong with the counters.AmazingICF beforeenjoying alate-afternoon arrival at threemainstructures. In finestfinishesand amenities. construction (all steel and the Sun Gate,Machu Picchu’sgrand en- Ride Like a Local // Get to know the area’s proximity to SanFrancisco. The best of indoor/outdoor concrete). Just reduced. trance. Foranevenmoreaerial view, hike Paso Peruano horses on an 11-day riding Price upon request. living. $4,500,000. $2,350,000.JennyMattson. up Huayna Picchu, the mountain thattow- excursion through remote Mark Attarha. MichaelDreyfus. ers 360 meters above the citadel. Forboth, Andean villages. $4,750; DIG DEEPER Clockwise book atour group as early as possible to perolchico.com BaySotheby’s International Realty Dreyfus Sotheby’s International Realty DeckerBullockSotheby’s International Realty from above, Machu Picchu; +1 510.851.5241 |SFBayAreaHilltopEstate.com +1 650.485.3476 |6blueoaksct.com +1 415.786.6183 |deckerbullocksir.com makesureyou’re one of the 500 people al- Quechua sisters in lowedonthe trail each day. Chill Out in Hot Springs traditional costume; the GREENWICH, CT LITCHFIELD,CT MADISON, CT // The rural village of La- Lares Valley Meet Paddington Bear’s Relatives // The res is famed for its natu- Abespoke designbynoted Stonegate, abeautiful Tudor- Breathtakinglight filled 5,400 architectAlisbergParker stylehomeon25bucolic sf sanctuaryoverlooking stylish InkaterraMachu Picchu Pueblo Ho- ral hot springs. And the Architects, this elegantly acres. StunningEnglish FenceCreek andLISound. tel’s5-hectaresiteincludes asanctuary for trip to get here—either refined 6BRGeorgian conservatory,pool, pool Rare woodscombinedwith the endangered Andean bear—the inspira- days of hiking or hours on Colonial is secludedon house, garage with space stone andglass create a tion forPaddington. Afterastrenuous hike, the road—means that approximately3lush,level for6cars. Spacious master true masterpiece.Soaring you’ll be in the mood to hibernate;soak you'll be more than ready acres on aprivate cul-de-sac suite, librarywithfireplace. clerestory,4BR, treetoplevel your tired bones in the Andean Sauna, set to soak in the waters and off RoundHill Road.WEB: $1,950,000. art/yoga studio,heatedlap 0067523. $5,250,000. Rick Distel. [email protected]. pool, privatedock. 90 mins in acandlelit eucalyptus hut beforeslipping drink in the stunning Joseph Barbieri. Fred [email protected] from NYC. $4,350,000. into adeep sleep. Double rooms from $274; mountain views around Margaret Muir. inkaterra.com you. 10 Soles/€3

Sotheby’s International Realty Greenwich Brokerage WilliamPittSotheby’s International Realty WilliamPittSotheby’s International Realty +1 203.618.3112 |sothebyshomes.com/greenwich +1 860.868.6600 |williampitt.com +1 203.738.0202 |wpsir.com NEW CANAAN, CT NEW CANAAN, CT MANASOTAKEY,FL SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA Philip Johnson’sboldest Inviting,private compound Arareopportunity to own Sydney is ahot spot—and it’sgot nothing to do with the 340 daysofsun a residential work The Wiley seton9+acres. Original oneofManasotaKey’s most Houseisone of thestars of 1920’stimelesshomehas extraordinaryproperties. year.Fromsky-high tourstosurfing at Bondi, you’re guaranteed to havea mid-century modernism. been beautifullyexpanded PrivateGulftobay lot g’day with these itineraries, created with pointersfromBlack Tomato. Restoredwithits integrity andrenovated.Stunning featuringthe perfect outdoor intact.Poolhouse and pool, fullservice poolhouse, sanctuary. Exquisite, gated, reconstructedbarn/gallery carriageguesthouse and 5BR, 5.5 bath main house FIRST VISIT: RETURN VISIT: complementthe original. 5garages. 2fully approved with pool. Plus 1BRguest Rocksand Roll // Go a-waltzing, or walking, Go Native // Live like a local for a day—or just $14,000,000.JohnHersam subdividedlotsincluded. cottage, includinga3-car through the streets. Start at the Rocks, ahis- a few hours. My Sydney Detour takes you andIngerStringfellow. $4,850,000.Becky Walsh. garage anddeepwater dock toric precinct on SydneyHarbour.Wind your from hidden city streets to the best beaches— with boat lift. $3,975,000. waytothe RoyalBotanic Garden on the other all in a restored 1964 EH Holden Premier. TerryHerschberger. WilliamPittSotheby’s International Realty WilliamPittSotheby’s International Realty PremierSotheby’s International Realty side of SydneyCove.Beforegoing in (free entry; Vegemite not (necessarily) required. From +1 203.417.5198 |williampitt.com +1 203.858.5909 |williampitt.com +1 941.468.8439 |PremierSIR.com rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au), walk down Macquarie Street A$399; mysydneydetour.com foraviewofAustralia’sfirstParliamentHouse. MARCO ISLAND,FL MARCO ISLAND,FL INDIANAPOLIS, IN Surf at Bondi Beach // Your name maynot be Panoramic southwestern Thisluxurycustomhome 1930s era estate underwent Climb a Bridge // Work your way through Kolohe, Kelly or Duke, but youcan still hang bayviews with spectacular is amagnificentexample ameticulousrenovationin hatchways and steel girders on Sydney Har- ten. Learn to ride likeapro with privatelessons sunsets. Infinity pooland of timeless, classic, 1995 creating an exquisite bour Bridge to see the place where the famed at one of the world’smostfamous beaches. spawithwaterfall andwater contemporary architecture, andtimelessestate. Adjacent arch was joined for the first time. At the A$99 foratwo-hour lesson; letsgosurfing.com.au features, outdoor summer craftsmanshipand style, to theformerLilly estate, top—134 meters high—you’ll have some of the kitchen. Guestcabanawith andhighlightsbreathtaking nowthe homesofthe best views of the city. From A$258/€173; Sail Away // Or at least around Sydney morningkitchen and southwestern bayviews. ChancellorsofIndiana walk-in closet. $5,850,000. $3,175,000. University, theproperty rests bridgeclimb.com Harbour. Climb aboard a 16-meter motor yacht Michelle Thomas. Michelle Thomas. on theexclusive Sunset Lane. at Campbell’s Cove and take in the sites from michelle.thomas@ michelle.thomas@ $8,500,000.MarkZukerman. Get a Bird’s-Eye View // It’s not hard to stay a unique viewpoint. With a skipper and guide sothebysrealty.com sothebysrealty.com far from the madding crowd in the sky. Syd- to lead the way, you can stop to swim, fish or ney by Seaplane takes you over the northern kayak, or simply relax on deck before heading PremierSotheby’s International Realty PremierSotheby’s International Realty Encore Sotheby’s International Realty beaches and Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park to the Cruising Yacht Club of Australia, home +1 239.860.7176 |PremierSIR.com +1 239.860.7176 |PremierSIR.com +1 317.660.4444 |encoresothebysrealty.com to Hawkesbury River, where you’ll set down of the Sydney Hobart Yacht race, for lunch. for a three-course lunch at Cottage Point Inn. A$4,000 for a four-hour tour; INDIANAPOLIS, IN CAPECOD,CHATHAM, MA CAPECOD,EASTORLEANS, MA A$495 a person; sydneybyseaplane.com sydneyharbourescapes.com.au Paradise hits themarket! Ellis Stunning, unobstructed Countryside Estates- SURF’S UP DOWN UNDER Clockwise from top, Lake is trulyremarkablewith panoramic viewsofPleasant East Orleans.Stylish Sydney Opera House; climbing to the top of Listen to an Aria // They say it’s not over ’til Take a History Lesson // Dig deeper into over 100 acres of breathtaking Bay, theOuter Beachand contemporary masterfully scenerywith30acres of Atlantic, locatedinthe heart carved into thehillside Sydney Harbour Bridge; taking surfing lessons the fat lady sings. So before your trip ends, Sydney’s history and culture with visits to water. Enjoyawide range of of Chatham. Viewsand overlookingNausetBeach at Bondi Beach; a house turned into artwork in head to the Sydney Opera House. One of the some of its lesser-known museums such as activities includingfishing proximity to waterwill knock andthe Atlantic Ocean. the city’s Redfern suburb 20th-century’s great architectural achieve- the Rocks Discovery Museum (free; swimming, huntingand a your socks off.Properties Modernseaside living at its ments, the building has Unesco World Heri- therocks.com) and the Aboriginal Heritage 340’ zipline32’ abovewater! like theseare difficultto most exquisite. $4,900,000. tage status. Learn more on a tour. $37; Museum (free; aboriginalheritage.org). $2,995,000.Jay O’Neil. come upon on Cape Cod. JimTrainor,AndreaBesse, sydneyoperahouse.com $5,999,000.JackD.Bohman. Eric Ehnstrom. Develop Your Musical Ear // Go behind the [email protected] Forget Shrimp on the Barbie // Australian scenes at one of the oldest and most Encore Sotheby’s International Realty oldCapeSotheby’s International Realty oldCapeSotheby’s International Realty chefsare whipping up some truly creative prestigious music schools in Australia with a +1 317.848.0008 |encoresothebysrealty.com +1 508.237.5039 |oldCape.com +1 508.274.5599 |oldCape.com dishes. Taste afew at the GlassBrasserie, tour of the Sydney Conservatorium of Music, helmed by one of the country’sleading which includes a free classical music ©MMXVSotheby’s InternationalRealtyAffiliatesLLC.aRealogy Company. AllRightsReserved. Riverbank,usedwithpermission.Sotheby’s InternationalRealty® is aregisteredtrademark chefs, Luke Mangan. Mains from A$41; performance. A$25 for a one-hour tour; licensed to Sotheby’sInternational Realty Affiliates LLC. An EqualOpportunity Company. EqualHousing Opportunity. Each Office is IndependentlyOwned andOperated. glassbrasserie.com.au mymusicdetour.com

PERU, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: SUSANNE KREMER/4CORNERS IMAGES; DELLA HUFF/ALAMY (2). SYDNEY, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: GETTY IMAGES/FLICKR RM; BLAINE HARRINGTON III/ALAMY; IMAGEBROKER/ALAMY; DAVID HILL/ALAMY W8 | Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015|W9 MANSION F ine ProPerties (4); JOURNAL REET ST LL WA THE R FO WELL BID JULIE BROOKLINE, MASSACHUSETTS BELMONT, MASSACHUSETTS LEXINGTON, MASSACHUSETTS Remarkable11 room residence.Over 4,800 Belmont Hill. Beautiful 2008 residence. Restored6,000sq.ft.mansionon.98acresof sq. ft. 4bedrooms. 5.5 bathrooms.On .89 5bedrooms. 4.5 bathrooms. 3-car garage. magnificent landscaping. In town location. acres.3fireplaces.Pool. ...$4,200,000 Private yard. ...$2,245,000 4room carriage house. ...$2,490,000

LEXINGTON, MASSACHUSETTS BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS CONCORD, MASSACHUSETTS Impressive 14 room house with exceptional South End. Extraordinary renovated On historic Main Street. 13 room condomini- The His-and-Hers Home stonework. 6bedrooms. 7full and 3half parlor triplex. 3bedrooms. 3.5 bathrooms. um on the Sudbury River. 5bedrooms. 3.5 bathrooms.3fireplaces. ...$2,999,900 3exposures. Garden. ...$2,950,000 bathrooms. On 1.15 acres. ...$1,854,000 One couple’s secret to a happy marriage: a loft divided into two quite distinct living areas

Ms. Paschke, who specializes in the other,afew steps lead up to a Mr.Danskin, an architect and stove, knives on displayand pots BY NANCY KEATES ceramics and light-reflectiveinstal- formal sitting area the couple calls manager for major chip families at hanging from the ceiling.“Imake lations,got alarge light-filled studio the sunroom. The sunroom resem- tech companyNVIDIA,preferred fires and spatter grease,” says Mr. ALLISON PASCHKE,anartist, and andsmall, cozy living area with sep- bles awaiting area in adoctor’s of- raw, natural materials and wide Danskin. John Danskin, acomputer engineer, arated spaces.Asense of nature fice and is barely used: It serves open andlong spaces forpacing Nowthat Mr.Danskin has his needed some spacefromeach other. prevails,provided by multihued mainly to separate the two spaces. whileheworks.Hewanted an in- own space, he has to clean up after The couple, who had been mar- polypropylene green shag rugs that When the door on the other end dustrial-style kitchen wherehe himself—something Ms.Paschke ried formorethan two decades and look likegrass;dozens of plantssur- of the sunroom opens to Mr.Dan- could grill steaks and grind coffee. used to do for him when they lived raised two kids,found themselves round the furnitureand sit on tables His windows aremoreexposed, in their large Queen Anne-style squabbling over lotsofsmall things, and lowbookshelves under massive looking out on massiveold electrical house in Cranston, raising their but didn’t want to get divorced. windows half-covered in translucent plants. Thewalls arebrick,covered kids.Back then the arrangement So in 2006,they sold their three- shades.Sinceshe doesn’t liketo ‘This living arrangement in peeling whitepaint; the book- wasthat he brought home the in- storyhouse in Cranston, R.I., and cook,the kitchen is minimal and has really helped us shelves aremetal. Arowing machine come and cooked dinnersfor the CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS NEWTON, MASSACHUSETTS BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS bought a400-square-meter loftin very much in the background: aline in the middle of the floor sits next family and she did everything else. the old jewelrydistrict of downtown of whitecabinetsagainst agraywall solve our issues’ to adesk with alarge computer Mr. Danskin’s clutter was a source Avon Hill. Magnificent 14 room residence. Stunning renovation of 13 room Tudor- The Fenway. Exceptional 10 room single Providence for $600,000, or about with small appliances. It is open to monitor.Heuses an entirewall as a of tension between them. Nowheis 5bedrooms. 4.5 bathrooms. Renovated to style residence. 6bedrooms. 5.5 bath- familyresidence.4bedrooms.3bathrooms. €540,000.Then they went about di- a bracket-shaped sitting area with blackboard. much neater,hesays,and if he does viding the loftintotwo connected small, modern,upright gray-and- skin’sside,adramatically more Midway through the room is leave something lying around, it is impeccable standards. ...$3,950,000 rooms. Over 5,500 sq. ft. ...$3,199,000 Direct access parking. ...$2,395,000 bututterly distinct living areas, white armchairs and a gray sofa. masculine auraprevails.The bed- what Mr. Danskin calls his “manly” hisproblem, not hers. He prefers each with itsown bedroom, kitchen, Awall coveredintranslucent room has acork floor and an angled furniture—aleather armchair,ata- that: “IfIclean something up it’s dining area and workspace. acrylic panels that looks likeaJapa- built-in bookshelf. The rectangular ble made from beams from an old because Iwant it clean not because Now, Ms. Paschke and Mr. Dan- nese shoji screen slides open. On shelves,irregularly stacked likechil- mill, and alarge TV.Atthe end is someone else wants it cleaned. I’m skin sleep in the same bedroom ev- one side is Ms. Paschke’s bedroom, dren’sblocks,separatethe bedroom the open kitchen with big stainless more likely to do something if it’s ery night (his, because he likes the nest-likewith curved walls with from the long,open room afew steel appliances,metal back- for me and not for guilt.” mattress better), eat dinner in the nooksand alow platform bed. On steps below. splashes, a giant hood over the gas Ms.Paschkecalls that newfound same room (also his,sincehehas a cleanliness“somewhat madden- biggerkitchen island) and entertain ing”—but says that even when he gueststogether (on her side,which does occasionally have cardboard is cozier). But they each oftencook boxespiled up (something that used separatemeals in their ownkitchens to driveher crazy), she doesn’t care and areresponsible forcleaning and because it is in his area. She hates decorating their ownareas.There candles because of the waxy drippy are two front doors. mess, but she loves that he lights “This living arrangement has re- them in his kitchen when they eat ally helped us solveour issues,” says dinner there together because it is HINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS WESTON, MASSACHUSETTS BROOKLINE, MASSACHUSETTS Ms. Paschke, 53. When they are to- romantic and she doesn’t have to Breathtaking 223 ft. of water frontage with a Charming 5bedroom residence with Sargent Estate. 13 room English Country- gether now, it’sintentional, she worryabout cleaning them up.Din- says, which makes it more fun: He ner is also nowconflict-free: She 5,100 sq. ft. main house plus astudio/guest character. 3full and 2half bathrooms. 4-car style house. 6bedrooms. 4.5 bathrooms. invites her over to his side for din- eatswhat she wants, usually salads, house with 2,200 sq. ft. ...$3,869,900 garage. Over 4,700 sq. ft. ...$1,895,000 Over 6,000 sq. ft. On 1.2 acres. ...$5,250,000 ner and amovie; they knock on each assembled in her kitchen, and brings other’s doors. Mr.Danskin, 54, says them over to eat in his kitchen, this is the best period they have wherehemakes elaboratemeals for had. “Marriagewas hardwork.Now himself and does his own dishes. it’snot,” he says.“We feel likewe They both saytheir newarrange- found a system.” ment feels alot likewhen they first Theteam at Providencearchitec- started dating as studentsatUni- turefirm 3six0 dubbed this project, versity of California SantaCruz, be- whichcost about $600,000 and fin- fore they gotmarried in 1983 and ished in 2009,the “Double Loft.” promptly had two children. “It’slike They hadencountered couples being teenagersbut without all the whose tastes and needs differed— horriblenessofbeing teenagers. but not to this extent, says architect TAKING SIDES Ms. Paschke, who specializes in ceramics, got a large, light-filled studio, above left, and a cozy living area, We’remoresecureand we know 800.722.0072 www.HammondRE.com Jack Ryan. top left; Mr. Danskin’s side has a more masculine aesthetic; he prefers raw, natural materials and an industrial look what to do,” says Mr. Danskin. W8 | Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015|W9 MANSION F ine ProPerties (4); JOURNAL REET ST LL WA THE R FO WELL BID JULIE BROOKLINE, MASSACHUSETTS BELMONT, MASSACHUSETTS LEXINGTON, MASSACHUSETTS Remarkable11 room residence.Over 4,800 Belmont Hill. Beautiful 2008 residence. Restored6,000sq.ft.mansionon.98acresof sq. ft. 4bedrooms. 5.5 bathrooms.On .89 5bedrooms. 4.5 bathrooms. 3-car garage. magnificent landscaping. In town location. acres.3fireplaces.Pool. ...$4,200,000 Private yard. ...$2,245,000 4room carriage house. ...$2,490,000

LEXINGTON, MASSACHUSETTS BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS CONCORD, MASSACHUSETTS Impressive 14 room house with exceptional South End. Extraordinary renovated On historic Main Street. 13 room condomini- The His-and-Hers Home stonework. 6bedrooms. 7full and 3half parlor triplex. 3bedrooms. 3.5 bathrooms. um on the Sudbury River. 5bedrooms. 3.5 bathrooms.3fireplaces. ...$2,999,900 3exposures. Garden. ...$2,950,000 bathrooms. On 1.15 acres. ...$1,854,000 One couple’s secret to a happy marriage: a loft divided into two quite distinct living areas

Ms. Paschke, who specializes in the other,afew steps lead up to a Mr.Danskin, an architect and stove, knives on displayand pots BY NANCY KEATES ceramics and light-reflectiveinstal- formal sitting area the couple calls manager for major chip families at hanging from the ceiling.“Imake lations,got alarge light-filled studio the sunroom. The sunroom resem- tech companyNVIDIA,preferred fires and spatter grease,” says Mr. ALLISON PASCHKE,anartist, and andsmall, cozy living area with sep- bles awaiting area in adoctor’s of- raw, natural materials and wide Danskin. John Danskin, acomputer engineer, arated spaces.Asense of nature fice and is barely used: It serves open andlong spaces forpacing Nowthat Mr.Danskin has his needed some spacefromeach other. prevails,provided by multihued mainly to separate the two spaces. whileheworks.Hewanted an in- own space, he has to clean up after The couple, who had been mar- polypropylene green shag rugs that When the door on the other end dustrial-style kitchen wherehe himself—something Ms.Paschke ried formorethan two decades and look likegrass;dozens of plantssur- of the sunroom opens to Mr.Dan- could grill steaks and grind coffee. used to do for him when they lived raised two kids,found themselves round the furnitureand sit on tables His windows aremoreexposed, in their large Queen Anne-style squabbling over lotsofsmall things, and lowbookshelves under massive looking out on massiveold electrical house in Cranston, raising their but didn’t want to get divorced. windows half-covered in translucent plants. Thewalls arebrick,covered kids.Back then the arrangement So in 2006,they sold their three- shades.Sinceshe doesn’t liketo ‘This living arrangement in peeling whitepaint; the book- wasthat he brought home the in- storyhouse in Cranston, R.I., and cook,the kitchen is minimal and has really helped us shelves aremetal. Arowing machine come and cooked dinnersfor the CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS NEWTON, MASSACHUSETTS BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS bought a400-square-meter loftin very much in the background: aline in the middle of the floor sits next family and she did everything else. the old jewelrydistrict of downtown of whitecabinetsagainst agraywall solve our issues’ to adesk with alarge computer Mr. Danskin’s clutter was a source Avon Hill. Magnificent 14 room residence. Stunning renovation of 13 room Tudor- The Fenway. Exceptional 10 room single Providence for $600,000, or about with small appliances. It is open to monitor.Heuses an entirewall as a of tension between them. Nowheis 5bedrooms. 4.5 bathrooms. Renovated to style residence. 6bedrooms. 5.5 bath- familyresidence.4bedrooms.3bathrooms. €540,000.Then they went about di- a bracket-shaped sitting area with blackboard. much neater,hesays,and if he does viding the loftintotwo connected small, modern,upright gray-and- skin’sside,adramatically more Midway through the room is leave something lying around, it is impeccable standards. ...$3,950,000 rooms. Over 5,500 sq. ft. ...$3,199,000 Direct access parking. ...$2,395,000 bututterly distinct living areas, white armchairs and a gray sofa. masculine auraprevails.The bed- what Mr. Danskin calls his “manly” hisproblem, not hers. He prefers each with itsown bedroom, kitchen, Awall coveredintranslucent room has acork floor and an angled furniture—aleather armchair,ata- that: “IfIclean something up it’s dining area and workspace. acrylic panels that looks likeaJapa- built-in bookshelf. The rectangular ble made from beams from an old because Iwant it clean not because Now, Ms. Paschke and Mr. Dan- nese shoji screen slides open. On shelves,irregularly stacked likechil- mill, and alarge TV.Atthe end is someone else wants it cleaned. I’m skin sleep in the same bedroom ev- one side is Ms. Paschke’s bedroom, dren’sblocks,separatethe bedroom the open kitchen with big stainless more likely to do something if it’s ery night (his, because he likes the nest-likewith curved walls with from the long,open room afew steel appliances,metal back- for me and not for guilt.” mattress better), eat dinner in the nooksand alow platform bed. On steps below. splashes, a giant hood over the gas Ms.Paschkecalls that newfound same room (also his,sincehehas a cleanliness“somewhat madden- biggerkitchen island) and entertain ing”—but says that even when he gueststogether (on her side,which does occasionally have cardboard is cozier). But they each oftencook boxespiled up (something that used separatemeals in their ownkitchens to driveher crazy), she doesn’t care and areresponsible forcleaning and because it is in his area. She hates decorating their ownareas.There candles because of the waxy drippy are two front doors. mess, but she loves that he lights “This living arrangement has re- them in his kitchen when they eat ally helped us solveour issues,” says dinner there together because it is HINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS WESTON, MASSACHUSETTS BROOKLINE, MASSACHUSETTS Ms. Paschke, 53. When they are to- romantic and she doesn’t have to Breathtaking 223 ft. of water frontage with a Charming 5bedroom residence with Sargent Estate. 13 room English Country- gether now, it’sintentional, she worryabout cleaning them up.Din- says, which makes it more fun: He ner is also nowconflict-free: She 5,100 sq. ft. main house plus astudio/guest character. 3full and 2half bathrooms. 4-car style house. 6bedrooms. 4.5 bathrooms. invites her over to his side for din- eatswhat she wants, usually salads, house with 2,200 sq. ft. ...$3,869,900 garage. Over 4,700 sq. ft. ...$1,895,000 Over 6,000 sq. ft. On 1.2 acres. ...$5,250,000 ner and amovie; they knock on each assembled in her kitchen, and brings other’s doors. Mr.Danskin, 54, says them over to eat in his kitchen, this is the best period they have wherehemakes elaboratemeals for had. “Marriagewas hardwork.Now himself and does his own dishes. it’snot,” he says.“We feel likewe They both saytheir newarrange- found a system.” ment feels alot likewhen they first Theteam at Providencearchitec- started dating as studentsatUni- turefirm 3six0 dubbed this project, versity of California SantaCruz, be- whichcost about $600,000 and fin- fore they gotmarried in 1983 and ished in 2009,the “Double Loft.” promptly had two children. “It’slike They hadencountered couples being teenagersbut without all the whose tastes and needs differed— horriblenessofbeing teenagers. but not to this extent, says architect TAKING SIDES Ms. Paschke, who specializes in ceramics, got a large, light-filled studio, above left, and a cozy living area, We’remoresecureand we know 800.722.0072 www.HammondRE.com Jack Ryan. top left; Mr. Danskin’s side has a more masculine aesthetic; he prefers raw, natural materials and an industrial look what to do,” says Mr. Danskin. W10 | Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015|W7 ADVENTURE & TRAVEL

THE SACRED VALLEY, PERU An ancient and architectural wonder, this mythical spot has mesmerized travelers for centuries. Build your own dream trip using this itinerary, created with pointers from Cazenove + Loyd.

FIRSTVISIT: RETURN VISIT: ABACO, BAHAMAS LYFORD CAY, BAHAMAS BELVEDERE, CA StepBack in Time // Machu Picchu maybe Get Off the Beaten Track // The Lares Valley, the culmination of your vacation, but there which runs parallel to the Sacred Valley, has Atruewaterfront“belvedere,” Gumelemi Cay. Private Newlybuilt,British Colonial areplenty of other wonders to see in the scenery to matchthe glories of the Inca Trail. A island, 8acres with 3private style6,800 sf,5BR, 5.5 bath with unobstructed viewsof beacheslies within the home offersexpansive golf Golden Gate Bridgeand San Sacred Valley. The ruins of Pisac, an Inca 30-minutedrivefromUrumbamba, it offers the Baker’sBay Golf &Ocean course views. Dramatic Franciscoskyline. 5BR, 4full citadel, arehaunting, and the 500-year-old chancetosee ancientburial grounds, climb in Club community.Justa greatroom, with 18’ vaulted +3halfbathmainresidence agricultural terraces nearbyare amarvel of cavesand meet locals. The bonus?It’scompara- 1minuteboatride to the ceiling. Furnished by plus separate 1BR, 1bath human engineering. tively free of touristhordes. ultra-exclusive resort,golf, renowned designer guestquarters. Gated, private, finediningand more.WEB: Amanda Lindroth.Lifeisless levellawns,multi-car parking. Go to Market // The towns hereare famed Cycle on AncientPaths // Mountain bike 25EWS7. $17,900,000 US. taxingoffshore.WEB: 77941. $15,500,000.Bill Bullockand George.Damianos@ $5,650,000 US. LydiaSarkissian. b.bullock@ fortheir markets. On Tuesday, Thursdayand acrossthe Sacred Valley’sChincheroPlain fol- SothebysRealty.com Nick.Damianos@ deckerbullocksir.com Sunday, the market in Pisac is at its most lowing centuries-old routes. Go slowenough to SothebysRealty.com bustling. Browse stalls forlocal produceand takeinthe scenery,which includes the village Damianos Sotheby’s International Realty Lyford CaySotheby’s International Realty DeckerBullockSotheby’s International Realty unique souvenirs, from ceramics to jewelry. of Chequereq and the beautiful LakeHuaypo.A +1 242.424.9699 |SIRbahamas.com +1 242.376.1841 |SIRlyfordcay.com +1 415.517.7720 |globalestates.com short uphill section brings youtothe circular Hikethe Inca Trail // Skip the four-daytrek Inca ruins of Moray. $125apersonfor aone-day ORINDA, CA PORTOLAVALLEY,CA SAN FRANCISCOBAY AREA, CA forthis one-dayshortcut to Machu Picchu group tour; adventureswithinreach.com Thisnearlynine-acreestateis Custom-built home located Absolutelystunningnew ($68/€61 entry; guide and permitsrequired). designedwithextraordinary in prestigious Portola construction view home. Take the Machu Picchu train from Ollantay- Get Wet // For a fresh perspective of the architecturaldetail. Main Valley.Built to exacting 4BR, 3baths,great room tambo and hop off at kilometer 104 to join Sacred Valley—and an adrenaline rush—white house, twostory carriage specifications with over with vaultedopenbeam the main routetothe sacred citadel. Stop water raft down the Urubamba River. $57; house, sports complex, in all 7,000 sf of living space.This ceilings. Gorgeousfinishes total approx24,000 sf.Solar home offersfirst-in-class includingCalcuttamarble forapicnic near the Inca ruin Winay-Wayna greenperuadventures.com provides electricity forthe infrastructurealong with the counters.AmazingICF beforeenjoying alate-afternoon arrival at threemainstructures. In finestfinishesand amenities. construction (all steel and the Sun Gate,Machu Picchu’sgrand en- Ride Like a Local // Get to know the area’s proximity to SanFrancisco. The best of indoor/outdoor concrete). Just reduced. trance. Foranevenmoreaerial view, hike Paso Peruano horses on an 11-day riding Price upon request. living. $4,500,000. $2,350,000.JennyMattson. up Huayna Picchu, the mountain thattow- excursion through remote Mark Attarha. MichaelDreyfus. ers 360 meters above the citadel. Forboth, Andean villages. $4,750; DIG DEEPER Clockwise book atour group as early as possible to perolchico.com BaySotheby’s International Realty Dreyfus Sotheby’s International Realty DeckerBullockSotheby’s International Realty from above, Machu Picchu; +1 510.851.5241 |SFBayAreaHilltopEstate.com +1 650.485.3476 |6blueoaksct.com +1 415.786.6183 |deckerbullocksir.com makesureyou’re one of the 500 people al- Quechua sisters in lowedonthe trail each day. Chill Out in Hot Springs traditional costume; the GREENWICH, CT LITCHFIELD,CT MADISON, CT // The rural village of La- Lares Valley Meet Paddington Bear’s Relatives // The res is famed for its natu- Abespoke designbynoted Stonegate, abeautiful Tudor- Breathtakinglight filled 5,400 architectAlisbergParker stylehomeon25bucolic sf sanctuaryoverlooking stylish InkaterraMachu Picchu Pueblo Ho- ral hot springs. And the Architects, this elegantly acres. StunningEnglish FenceCreek andLISound. tel’s5-hectaresiteincludes asanctuary for trip to get here—either refined 6BRGeorgian conservatory,pool, pool Rare woodscombinedwith the endangered Andean bear—the inspira- days of hiking or hours on Colonial is secludedon house, garage with space stone andglass create a tion forPaddington. Afterastrenuous hike, the road—means that approximately3lush,level for6cars. Spacious master true masterpiece.Soaring you’ll be in the mood to hibernate;soak you'll be more than ready acres on aprivate cul-de-sac suite, librarywithfireplace. clerestory,4BR, treetoplevel your tired bones in the Andean Sauna, set to soak in the waters and off RoundHill Road.WEB: $1,950,000. art/yoga studio,heatedlap 0067523. $5,250,000. Rick Distel. [email protected]. pool, privatedock. 90 mins in acandlelit eucalyptus hut beforeslipping drink in the stunning Joseph Barbieri. Fred [email protected] from NYC. $4,350,000. into adeep sleep. Double rooms from $274; mountain views around Margaret Muir. inkaterra.com you. 10 Soles/€3

Sotheby’s International Realty Greenwich Brokerage WilliamPittSotheby’s International Realty WilliamPittSotheby’s International Realty +1 203.618.3112 |sothebyshomes.com/greenwich +1 860.868.6600 |williampitt.com +1 203.738.0202 |wpsir.com NEW CANAAN, CT NEW CANAAN, CT MANASOTAKEY,FL SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA Philip Johnson’sboldest Inviting,private compound Arareopportunity to own Sydney is ahot spot—and it’sgot nothing to do with the 340 daysofsun a residential work The Wiley seton9+acres. Original oneofManasotaKey’s most Houseisone of thestars of 1920’stimelesshomehas extraordinaryproperties. year.Fromsky-high tourstosurfing at Bondi, you’re guaranteed to havea mid-century modernism. been beautifullyexpanded PrivateGulftobay lot g’day with these itineraries, created with pointersfromBlack Tomato. Restoredwithits integrity andrenovated.Stunning featuringthe perfect outdoor intact.Poolhouse and pool, fullservice poolhouse, sanctuary. Exquisite, gated, reconstructedbarn/gallery carriageguesthouse and 5BR, 5.5 bath main house FIRST VISIT: RETURN VISIT: complementthe original. 5garages. 2fully approved with pool. Plus 1BRguest Rocksand Roll // Go a-waltzing, or walking, Go Native // Live like a local for a day—or just $14,000,000.JohnHersam subdividedlotsincluded. cottage, includinga3-car through the streets. Start at the Rocks, ahis- a few hours. My Sydney Detour takes you andIngerStringfellow. $4,850,000.Becky Walsh. garage anddeepwater dock toric precinct on SydneyHarbour.Wind your from hidden city streets to the best beaches— with boat lift. $3,975,000. waytothe RoyalBotanic Garden on the other all in a restored 1964 EH Holden Premier. TerryHerschberger. WilliamPittSotheby’s International Realty WilliamPittSotheby’s International Realty PremierSotheby’s International Realty side of SydneyCove.Beforegoing in (free entry; Vegemite not (necessarily) required. From +1 203.417.5198 |williampitt.com +1 203.858.5909 |williampitt.com +1 941.468.8439 |PremierSIR.com rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au), walk down Macquarie Street A$399; mysydneydetour.com foraviewofAustralia’sfirstParliamentHouse. MARCO ISLAND,FL MARCO ISLAND,FL INDIANAPOLIS, IN Surf at Bondi Beach // Your name maynot be Panoramic southwestern Thisluxurycustomhome 1930s era estate underwent Climb a Bridge // Work your way through Kolohe, Kelly or Duke, but youcan still hang bayviews with spectacular is amagnificentexample ameticulousrenovationin hatchways and steel girders on Sydney Har- ten. Learn to ride likeapro with privatelessons sunsets. Infinity pooland of timeless, classic, 1995 creating an exquisite bour Bridge to see the place where the famed at one of the world’smostfamous beaches. spawithwaterfall andwater contemporary architecture, andtimelessestate. Adjacent arch was joined for the first time. At the A$99 foratwo-hour lesson; letsgosurfing.com.au features, outdoor summer craftsmanshipand style, to theformerLilly estate, top—134 meters high—you’ll have some of the kitchen. Guestcabanawith andhighlightsbreathtaking nowthe homesofthe best views of the city. From A$258/€173; Sail Away // Or at least around Sydney morningkitchen and southwestern bayviews. ChancellorsofIndiana walk-in closet. $5,850,000. $3,175,000. University, theproperty rests bridgeclimb.com Harbour. Climb aboard a 16-meter motor yacht Michelle Thomas. Michelle Thomas. on theexclusive Sunset Lane. at Campbell’s Cove and take in the sites from michelle.thomas@ michelle.thomas@ $8,500,000.MarkZukerman. Get a Bird’s-Eye View // It’s not hard to stay a unique viewpoint. With a skipper and guide sothebysrealty.com sothebysrealty.com far from the madding crowd in the sky. Syd- to lead the way, you can stop to swim, fish or ney by Seaplane takes you over the northern kayak, or simply relax on deck before heading PremierSotheby’s International Realty PremierSotheby’s International Realty Encore Sotheby’s International Realty beaches and Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park to the Cruising Yacht Club of Australia, home +1 239.860.7176 |PremierSIR.com +1 239.860.7176 |PremierSIR.com +1 317.660.4444 |encoresothebysrealty.com to Hawkesbury River, where you’ll set down of the Sydney Hobart Yacht race, for lunch. for a three-course lunch at Cottage Point Inn. A$4,000 for a four-hour tour; INDIANAPOLIS, IN CAPECOD,CHATHAM, MA CAPECOD,EASTORLEANS, MA A$495 a person; sydneybyseaplane.com sydneyharbourescapes.com.au Paradise hits themarket! Ellis Stunning, unobstructed Countryside Estates- SURF’S UP DOWN UNDER Clockwise from top, Lake is trulyremarkablewith panoramic viewsofPleasant East Orleans.Stylish Sydney Opera House; climbing to the top of Listen to an Aria // They say it’s not over ’til Take a History Lesson // Dig deeper into over 100 acres of breathtaking Bay, theOuter Beachand contemporary masterfully scenerywith30acres of Atlantic, locatedinthe heart carved into thehillside Sydney Harbour Bridge; taking surfing lessons the fat lady sings. So before your trip ends, Sydney’s history and culture with visits to water. Enjoyawide range of of Chatham. Viewsand overlookingNausetBeach at Bondi Beach; a house turned into artwork in head to the Sydney Opera House. One of the some of its lesser-known museums such as activities includingfishing proximity to waterwill knock andthe Atlantic Ocean. the city’s Redfern suburb 20th-century’s great architectural achieve- the Rocks Discovery Museum (free; swimming, huntingand a your socks off.Properties Modernseaside living at its ments, the building has Unesco World Heri- therocks.com) and the Aboriginal Heritage 340’ zipline32’ abovewater! like theseare difficultto most exquisite. $4,900,000. tage status. Learn more on a tour. $37; Museum (free; aboriginalheritage.org). $2,995,000.Jay O’Neil. come upon on Cape Cod. JimTrainor,AndreaBesse, sydneyoperahouse.com $5,999,000.JackD.Bohman. Eric Ehnstrom. Develop Your Musical Ear // Go behind the [email protected] Forget Shrimp on the Barbie // Australian scenes at one of the oldest and most Encore Sotheby’s International Realty oldCapeSotheby’s International Realty oldCapeSotheby’s International Realty chefsare whipping up some truly creative prestigious music schools in Australia with a +1 317.848.0008 |encoresothebysrealty.com +1 508.237.5039 |oldCape.com +1 508.274.5599 |oldCape.com dishes. Taste afew at the GlassBrasserie, tour of the Sydney Conservatorium of Music, helmed by one of the country’sleading which includes a free classical music ©MMXVSotheby’s InternationalRealtyAffiliatesLLC.aRealogy Company. AllRightsReserved. Riverbank,usedwithpermission.Sotheby’s InternationalRealty® is aregisteredtrademark chefs, Luke Mangan. Mains from A$41; performance. A$25 for a one-hour tour; licensed to Sotheby’sInternational Realty Affiliates LLC. An EqualOpportunity Company. EqualHousing Opportunity. Each Office is IndependentlyOwned andOperated. glassbrasserie.com.au mymusicdetour.com

PERU, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: SUSANNE KREMER/4CORNERS IMAGES; DELLA HUFF/ALAMY (2). SYDNEY, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: GETTY IMAGES/FLICKR RM; BLAINE HARRINGTON III/ALAMY; IMAGEBROKER/ALAMY; DAVID HILL/ALAMY W6 | Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015|W11 ADVENTURE & TRAVEL It’s Worth Repeating Yourself

BIGSKY,MT BITTERROOTVALLEY,MT GARNETMOUNTAIN RANGE, MT Blendingwiththe contours of Located within theexclusive Nestledbetween theClark alush meadow, NewMoose StockFarmClub, this Fork Riverand theGarnet Creekisacarefully curated 6,200+ sf customhome Mountain Range on 8,200 dwellingemanating adistinct, features vaulted/exposed acres, theBearmouthLegacy clever ambience.5BR, beams ceilings, chef’s kitchen, RanchisarareMontana 3.5 baths, 6,972 sf,additional guestwingand outdoor find. Luxurylodge,expansive studio apartment, 6.04 acres. kitchen. Club amenities outdoor living area,shooting Stunningarchitectural, eco- include TomFazio golf range,prime hunting. chic finishes. Waterfrontage. course,pool, andpremier Acreageoptions available. $2,499,000.Tallie Lancey. dining. $4,485,000. $16,242,000.DawnMaddux. Dawn Maddux. MY

ALA BigSky Sotheby’s International Realty Glacier Sotheby’s International Realty Glacier Sotheby’s International Realty

ON/ +1 406.600.8081 /406.995.2211|bigskysir.com +1 406.550.4131 |glaciersir.com +1 406.550.4131 |glaciersir.com TO

EVE MISSOULA, MT WILMINGTON,NCSANTAFE, NM ST 7,500+ sf customhomeon3.8 ThisWestIndies infused Cherished fordecades by a

AND park like city acres. Beautiful masterpiece sits highona prominentfamily, this hilltop details throughout.Multiple bluff overlookingthe Atlantic compound comprises ANN decks, landscapedgrounds, Ocean. 5BR, 8baths, 3homes on more than

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IMA pool, privateguestquarters. infinity pooland over mountain views, mature $2,500,000.DawnMaddux. 7,400 sf of living space landscaping,aprivate pond, with spectacularfinishes. equestrianfacilities, and PLANET

Y $4,950,000.NickPhillips. apool. WEB: 0564618. $8,400,000.Chris Webster. ONEL /L

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GETTY the bush beyond are made for adventure. Choose your own from our ; NEW CITY, NY NEW YORK, NY NEW YORK, NY

MY itineraries, created with pointers from Absolute Travel.

LA Luxurious 8,000 sf brick Panoramic viewsofall Perfectlysituatedat76th

/A estate home with country CentralParkand theNew Street andFifthAvenue,

GES FIRST VISIT: RETURN VISIT: club like amenities and York City skylinefrom an this sunflooded 8-room

IMA Get a Lay of the Land // Set 1,086 meters Go to Woodstock // There’s no music festival locatedonaprivate 2acre elegant,full-floor aerie.An residence comprisesthe O above sea, the famed flat-topped Table Moun- here, but this hip neighborhood is the place to wooded settinginexclusive enfilade of 5rooms,a92’ entire seventh floor of this

GALL area.Featuresgreat room, expanse, directlyoverlooks marvelousbuildingand

; tain is the perfect spot for taking in a pan- go to taste the region’s local, organic and sea- countryeat-in kitchen, spa- thepark. WEB: 00110110. offersspectacular views MY JUST SAY JA Clockwise from top, view from oramic view of the city and coast. Hike the 3 sonal products, admire street art and hunt for like property with in-ground $50,000,000. of CentralPark. ALA Table Mountain over Cape Town; the Old Biscuit kilometers up Platteklip Gorge or conserve local fashion and homewares. pool, basketball,patio with RobertaGolubock. WEB: 00110158. Mill Saturday market; vineyards near your energy and take the cable car (225 rand outdoor fplc, 6BR, 5.1 baths. $12,750,000. GMBH/ Stellenbosch; a colony of penguins on Boulder return, €16; sanparks.org). Don’t forget to stop Sip Wine // Take a day trip to the Winelands $1,650,000.Richard Ellis Serena Boardman. Beach; a white rhino calf. at the Cape of Good Hope (125 rand entry). towns of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek to andBrandon Wagner. AFEN experience renowned wineries such as Ellis Sotheby’s International Realty Sotheby’s International Realty East Side Manhattan Brokerage Sotheby’s International Realty East Side Manhattan Brokerage OGR Catch a Mane Attraction // Lion’s Head is ar- Vergelegen, Kanonkop, Spier and Boschendal, +1 914.393.0438 |ellissothebysrealty.com +1 212.606.7704 |sothebyshomes.com/nyc +1 212.606.7611 |sothebyshomes.com/nyc FOT guably the best place in town to watch the as well as beautiful examples of Dutch DER sun set. The hike to the top will take 60-90 colonial architecture. Book ahead. NEW YORK, NY NEW YORK, NY NEW YORK, NY minutes; your reward is a breathtaking view. Aunique penthousewith Elegant fullfloorpenthouse Penthouse1BRwithlarge ENTUR wrap-aroundterrace,Central condoisaspacious 2BR, south-facingprivate terrace, AG Look out for Robben Island, where Nelson Tour a Township // Get a glimpse of Park views, wood-burning 1,950± sf interior with natural spectacularEmpireState

BILD Mandela was imprisoned for 18 years. Free another side of Cape Town with a walk fireplace andflexibleopen light from all exposures Buildingviews. Bright home

DIE through a township such as Langa or Kaya- space.Alwyn Court, a andabeautiful 1,000± with 9’5” ceilings, chef’s

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Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015|W5 MANSION EATING & DRINKING Secrets of an Ice Princess ON WINE: WILL LYONS Chris Evert’s serenity on the tennis court was forged in the Florida sun Top Wines Knock Cricketers for Six ‘What they didn’t IWAS THE KIND OF KID who needed Florida tournamentswhen Iwas 11, understand is that my to be pushed. I was easygoing and and pretty soon competing and win- obedient, but as soon as Isensed my ning became a way of life. strength was the mental ENGLAND CRICKETER Stuart Broad 10 yards away from us, which was responsibilities on the tennis court, Thereason Idid so well so part of the game’ has alarge collection of un- really quite special.” success came quickly.Ialways kept quickly is that Ipracticed forhours opened Champagne bottles.The Cricket and wine have always my composure, which rattled my op- each day—at nightunder the lights seam bowler and left-handed been happy bedfellows. Not only ponents. While Iseemed serene,I afterschool and in the mornings batsman keeps them in his Not- is the game loved and played in actually wasstudying their weak- and eveningsonweekends.InFlor- tinghamshirehome,carefully some of the world’s great wine nesses so I could win. ida youcould playoutdoorsyear- stored on their side so the corks countries, but—unlike any other My parents had five children—I round, which gavemeanedgeover won’t dryout. But unlikemost sport—the gentle rhythms of the wasthe second oldest. My father, those who played only five months amateur wine collectors, he has game lend themselves to a glass Jimmy, wasatennis proand taught of the year. no plans to open them. of wine. “Is that why everyone’s all of us to play. When Iwas 5, he Ididn’t have anyinjuries as akid always asleep by 4 p.m.?” Mr. took me to the HolidayPark Tennis or as apro,partly because Iwas Broad laughs. Center in Fort Lauderdale,Fla., raised on claycourts, which are Maybe. But wine and cricket about three minutes from our moreforgiving.Aclaysurfacelet Cricket and wine have also share a connection to the house. I wasn’t happy about going me perfect my groundstrokes and always been happy physical landscape. Both can be at first. Iwas in kindergarten and footwork.Italso helped me think found in spectacular settings. In loved spending time at my girl- and learn howtoconstruct a bedfellows fact, some cricket grounds rival friend’shouse swimming and having point—strategically hitting to the even the greatest vineyards barbecues.Instead, Ihad to hit balls corners. Most of all, Ilearned early Philanthropist John Paul Getty my dad threw to me. that Iwas morepatientand steadier “They’re mementos,” he says, Jr., son of the American industri- Ieasily could have resented my than everyone else.IknewIcould picked up from a cricketing career alist, created perhaps the most father and hated tennis.But Iquickly wear down my opponentsifIjust that has taken him around the beautiful cricket ground at his learned to enjoyitand responded stayed the course and kept cool. world—including wine-producing Wormsley estate in Buckingham- well to my dad, who wasmoreofa As Ibegan winning national countries such as South Africa, shire, England. For Mr. Broad, the stern teacher than atyrant. Besides, tournaments, the media started call- Australia and New Zealand. pitch that takes his breath away is thereweremanyother kids my age ing me the IcePrincess. It wasa “Man of the match,” the crick- Newlands Cricket Ground in Cape playing there, so Ihad fun. time when tennis players were eter smiles. “Every player gets a Town, set against the magnificent From the street, our modest starting to showemotion on the bottle of Champagne but we tend backdrop of Table Mountain. one-story, three-bedroom house court. What they didn’t understand not to open them.” They stand to “It’s the one ground where, looked likeany other on the block. is that my strength was the mental remind him of happy times, like even when you’re playing and fo- AfterIturned proatage 18,my part of the game. when he took six Australian wick- cusing on the cricket, it stops you parentsadded an upstairsbedroom Iwas moreofalistener,some- ets for 50 runs to clinch the Ashes in your tracks,” he says. South Af- suiteinthe back formyyounger one who observed and had focus as in Durham in 2013. rican wine is also a favorite. The ILLUSTRATION BY DAVID PLUNKERT sister,Jeanne,and me.She wasa well as killer instincts. Backthen, It’s Ashes time again and, after cricketer says he likes visiting tennis pro, too. we were still using wood a win in Cardiff, England will re- Stellenbosch and is a fan of Meer- DRINKING NOW: THREE WINES FROM VINEYARDS ON THE CRICKET CIRCUIT My mother,Colette,made an racketsand playing on sume hostilities with Australia lust Rubicon, a deep red wine effort to be the counterbalance. clay, which meant this week as they play the second made up of Cabernet Sauvignon, When Iwas home,wenever there wasn’t a lot ACEChris Evert in a 2014 portrait. Test at Lord’s. Which is where we Merlot and Cabernet Franc. 2012 Moss Wood 2014 Hamilton Russell Hambledon Classic talked tennis.She’dtakemeto of powerinthe Left, the Wimbledon champion in meet, just outside the bowler’s Unlike the old days when it Cabernet Sauvignon Pinot Noir $36 or €32 Cuvée $50 or €45 the beach or the mall. Her game. 1974. Below, the tennis star during bar in the historic pavilion. We’re was the norm for teams to have a $65 or €60 Tim Hamilton founded English wine has goal wastocreateanormal As Igot a match in Forest Hills, Queens, in not, however, here to talk about few drinks together at the end of Quitesimply one of the Hamilton Russell come a long way in home lifefor me.She’sthe older,mydad 1971, and at 17 with her family in cricket, but his second love: wine. a day’s play, it’s now all a little the best Australian vineyard in South the past few years one who traveled to stopped pushing Fort Lauderdale, Fla., in 1972 “We are so fortunate with the more regulated. “As a team we do Cabernet Sauvignons Africa’sHemel-en- and Hambledon is a tournamentswith me me.Bythen, he amount of travel we do with celebrate after a win,” Mr. Broad Ihavetasted. Aarde Valleyinthe good example of andwas able to ease sensed Iwas self- cricket that it opens up some says. “We won in Cardiff and Sir Repletewith fruit late1970s. The winery what has been the stress. To my driven. Forhim, it clappedlouder formyopponents wonderful places with good Ian Botham came into the dress- and flowerscents, it is nowinthe capable achieved. Released dad’scredit, he wasnever aboutthe than for me, just to be nice. In the wines,” says Mr. Broad. ing room. It’s usually beer. I’m not has agenerous hands of his son, last year, this Classic stayed home with money. He kept his job early 1970s,everyone fell in love The recent World Cup in Aus- a big beer fan so I’ll always relax mouth feel with a Anthony, who has Cuvée is a blend of the kids. as tennis director at Hol- with Evonne Goolagong. When I tralia and New Zealand was a case with a few glasses of wine.” strong, spicy, oaky changed the style in Chardonnay, Pinot In the 1960s,all of iday Park until he was 70. beat her at aUSTAevent, my mom, in point. “We had a great day at Whoknows? At Lord’s he might flavoronthe finish. recent years. The Meunier and Pinot my friends were into They renamed the center for who already knewEvonne,said to Hardys wines in Adelaide,” he win another bottle of Champagne— Lovers of Australian 2014 has alot of Noir. It’s toasty, with tennis on some level. him in 1997. her after, “Oh Evonne, don’t worry. says. But it was a visit to Dog although Idoubt he’ll open it. wine will find this plum and raspberry attractive fruit and Holiday Park was a cen- My mother wasthe greatest You’ll get her next time.” Point winery in Marlborough, New hardtoresist. fruit with asmooth thrilling, tingling ter of serious tennis ac- tennis mom you could wish for. TodayIliveinBocaRaton,Fla. Zealand, that really inspired. “We  Email Will at [email protected] Alcohol: 14% finish. Alcohol: 13.5% acidity. Alcohol: 12.5% tivity. Istarted winning She wascalm and kind, and even My parentsliveahalf-hour away, were drinking with the grapes just or follow him on Twitter: @Will_Lyons and my brothersand sisterslive within 20 minutes.Ihavea12,000- ADVERTISEMENT square-foot [1,100-square-meter], five-bedroom, Spanish-style house DistinctiveProperties&Estates on 5 acres [2 hectares] in a private development. Why Germany’s Saying Bitter to Beer My tennis academyisseven min- UNITED STATES utes away by car. Sometimes when SUMMER IN GERMANY means one “Barley &Hops” (Gestalten, €40). the335-year-old Schönram Brewery I’m there, I jump into practice ses- 2 4 thing: beer gardens.And while cool- “For decades,therehas been very lit- produced Germany’sfirst India Pale Distinctive sions unannounced. Not long ago, I ingoff with astein of golden beer is tle innovation in the art of brewing.” Ale.And acrossthe country, micro- $&) %*"&(!# '& asked one of the new girls who she 5 the height of leisure, suds—like all But over the past decade, small breweries likeSchoppe Bräu, Hopfen- thoughtIwas when Icame on the 1 3 thingsinGermany—areaveryseri- German breweries have been push- stopfer and BrauKunstKeller have Properties. court. “Some lady,” she said. ousscience. They’reevenregulated ingfor their ownplaceatthe tap. been redefining bier with innovative At my house,Ihaveatennis by their own law, the Reinheitsge- Inspired by the craft beer scene in brews. Even big industryistaking court with a surface similar to the bot, which states that barley, malt, America, they’vebeen breaking free notice; in May, Becks released itsown ones at theU.S.Open. Recently,I waterand yeast arethe only accept- from the constraintsofthe Rein- amber lager and pale ale. was playing with one of my boys— able ingredients. heitsgebot and adding newingredi- TheGerman craftbeer scene is they’re ages 23, 20 and 18—and af- Thecountrytodayhas aflock of ents that are hardly impure. still in itsfledgling days.Mr. Sauer

Select Residential Listings on Friday. AIT)

terashot he said, “Is that the hard- TR (mostly) excellent beers, but it’sthe At Cologne’sFreigeist Bierkultur, says he sells morebeer in the U.S.

ListYour Property Todayin est youcan hit the ball, mom?” I OR light, smooth-drinkingbrews that SebastianSauer and PeterEsser are and Brazil than in the Fatherland. But >;$"& 2*5&;%;A!5 shouted back,“Hey,Iwas No.1for 7 (P rule the roost. “Therewerepockets bottling long-neglected recipes such with so manynew brewscropping up The Wall Street Journal Asia. ZO A#' !*>#&8 #A(*5$A!, yearssoput alid on it.” Here, I’m of variety in places likeBavaria, but as Gose and Lichtenhainer,aswell as each year,it’sonly amatteroftime

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$2(5JISMQ Chris Evert, 60, was the world’s (2); !?AC =P# CN% "GCJ top-ranked women’s professional S 1 KUEHN KUNZ ROSEN KUEHNES 2 FREIGEIST BIERKULTUR 3 SCHÖNRAMER BAYRISCH 4 KEHRWIEDER PROTOTYP 5 BRLO PORTER 7% ABV, €2.30

666,=/:DF49)-/3:/.@)E,+4= and in 1980 and 1981, winning 18 TED Brewed with wheatand oats, with hints HAINER 6% ABV, €3.80 This pale ale is so lightitcould al- Unfiltered, unpasteurized and cold- help it stand out from the crowd, but

G.1 R22$4SIIS?$L >L& B+M4SJ& !D H91.G career Grand Slam singles titles CIA of coriander and orange, this slightly Pear juicegives this beer its sour flavor, most be apilsner.But don’tbefooled: hopped, this lager straddles the flavors it’s the rich caramel flavor—coaxed SO

before retiring in 1989. She is an AS sweet quaff has atangy aftertaste that and the tartnesspairs well with the Astrong ale taste leavesapleasant of apale ale and apilsner—without from three different malts—that R:

ESPN tennis analyst. L- makes foreasysummer drinking. smokinessatrue Lichtenhainer requires. peppery finish. having to conform to either. makes it so enjoyable. W4 | Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015|W13 STYLE & FASHION

LOVE STORY BY LUKE LEITCH

AS IWILTED waiting forthe Yohji Ya- mamotoshowtobegin last month in Paris,myseatmate,veteran German MarchMadness stylist Klaus Stockhausen—whose knowledgeofmenswear is as ency- '"!'*#21 !: 3 !A01H8F18,G /%*/*'= #:*&)D24% (2+21 4@ 3 !AH10,C1H,G "*+ .(PNLBd() O>GGG i5$d ,(N.kUBP WNQ( 3-NM. Y(BiNPi1> fb7 84 (idBd( Ke YUkPU#?BPd i(BiU)( (idBd( KUdW @.(BdWdBSUPk 4NQ;R(d(RI .(PNLBd() ,(N.kUBP i(d NP NL(. jokes and brokeintoasmile of recog- for the German military is an ideal, under-the-radar sneaker Ke(J;BPiUL( A(J;(.dRI )(iUkP() NMd)NN. d(..B?(i: d(PPUi ?d> ;NNR> kM(id WNMi(: LU(Ki $.NQ dW( +B.@N. dN ]BPdM?S(d YNMP): cB?.(i: ,M(id WNMi(> W(Bd() ;NNR> d(PPUi ?NM.d: nition. It wasdirected at my sneak- 6BU.)ADB.P(. XM.;UP Z(BR 0idBd(> *P?: ZN@(.d [BMR [.N;(.dU(i +NMRUWBP _BK.(P?( ers. “Ah, the armyshoe! Iused to `BdW(.UP( 4W(H ^BRSUP &GG< c dWNMkWd$MRRIV.(PNLBd() iUJV@().NNQ FP)(. ?NPid.M?dUNP% 0idBd( WNQ(> RBS( LU(Ki> ing sneakerheads refertoit. It be- O:"b B?.(i> ;.ULBd( )N?S BP) iBP)I @(B?W: NL(.RNNSUPk kNR$ ?NM.i( KUdW <:f B?.(i BP) ;NNR: 4NRNPUBR dM?S() BKBI NP <:O' B?.(i KUdW ;NNR: )(iUkP() $N. 5MBRUdI A($#?U(P?I: ganduring alate-night, wine- ZN@(.d [BMR [.N;(.dU(i +NMRUWBP _BK.(P?( +NMRUWBP _BK.(P?( aNWP Z: DNN) [.N;(.dU(i fueled browse on online retailer Mr YLE)

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not abold dresser.Lizardsneakers realm. Thegenuine article is still It’s almost the same anonymous Alfieri, “but Ipreferour CARDENA sound bold. Yetthe easily found on eBay, shape as the BW-Sport but made in version to the original.” simplicity of the Amazon and various an increasingly elaboratevariety of Heresy? Of course not. ANNE upper shape,the othersources. (Once luxe finishes. TheGAT,likemanyother co- Leather Replica Sneakers, €320, BY rawgum of the Iunderstood the ori- Over the past decade or so, the opted military items, has become a eboutique.maisonmargiela.com

Over the past decade YLING outsole and the ab- gins of my Margielas, shoe hasgone steadily viral. Dior templatetobereinterpreted. And ST '*/% '2&1 4%< )%*(B+91 7* 3 !F1AAC18,G '"*D"*71 '*/% '2&1 7* 3 !F1AA.1.0F (%&$2+& "!::)1 49 3 !H1,,.1.HH D%<=)(B+9D1 4@ 3 !H1F5H15C, senceofbranding or so, the shoe has Iheaded to eBayand Homme produced aversion called viadesignersand GATgeeks like 7%( !&/ ,7,'-- 7%( !&/ *1#'-- 7%( !&/ 07.'-- 7%( !&/ 1*8'-- beautifully tem- gone steadily viral bought aseemingly the B01 in the mid-aughts. NewYork myself,this shoe has become apara- Y;(?dB?MRB. ]BPdM?S(d YNMP) $.NPd WNQ( KUdW Z(QB.SB@R( dW.(( @().NNQ KBd(.$.NPd ;.N;(.dI 6(id N$ 6()$N.): ](K 4NRNPUBR NP ":" B?.(i UP ?:<' 0R(kBPd )(dBURi ALU(Ki> cfB?> "6Z: [NNR> pered anyflash. boxfresh pair of orig- menswear label Epaulet recently digm of sneakerdom—and one JOURNAL, MP;B.BRR(R() LU(Kih KBRS dN BRR B.(B BQ(PUdU(i: KUdW ;.ULBd( iBP)I @(B?W NP 4WBdWBQ +B.@N.: dW( ;.(QU(. ,MB.)+URR (idBd( B.(B KUdW ;NNR: d(PPUi A;B))R( ?NM.di> !'Q dN ]C4:

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WHY BE BLAND? Sure, a scoop of vanilla ice cream is an undeniable classic that does the Shorts That AreaBoreNoMore job on a sweltering day, but wouldn’t it be less yawningly predictable to try some Wild- berry Lavender or at least Rocky Road? The same is true when it comes to summer fash- ion. There’s nothing wrong with your trusty, garden-variety khaki shorts, but a somewhat bolder—though by no means clownish or ridiculous—pair can give your polo- or T-shirt- Three easy upgrades to your summer shorts wardrobe based ensemble a stylish boost. Try out one of these strategically tweaked options the next time you pick up a pair and leave the blah world of beige behind. —Jacob Gallagher "&((&# $% &'!

'+2D24E24E"B&)241 49 3 !H1H..18,G /+2?%4'% '2D% &;*6B+1 $+*4'% 3 !A1HGG1GGG $2+D79%+)1 $: 3 !A1GHC1GHH 7%( !&/ (31(-- 7%( !&/ .<0'-- 7%( !&/ 4)7'-- 6;5;+3"04%) $+04 XUQ(R(ii c @BdWi:_BP) c>GGGi5Q: 2U.(?d ,MR$ 8??(ii% Z(iN.d RULUPk> !6Zec:"68> NL(. <' B?.(i> kM(id ?NddBk(> ;NNR BP) LU(Ki: 6MUR) bGGf: -BQURI ;(.$(?d:iKUQ ;NNR: EU(K: )N?S KebRU$die.BQ;e@NBdWNMi(> Z()M?()% ! ! +NMRUWBP _BK.(P?( 4BPN *QQN@URU(. E*[ Z(BRdI ,.NM;> *P?: 8dW(PB ^UR(i &GG< O

=bG<" _MJM.I [N.d$NRUN *Pd(.PBdUNPBRj:\$$(.UPk Ui iM@T(?d dN (..N.i> NQUiiUNPi> ?WBPk( N$ ;.U?(> N. KUdW).BKBR KUdWNMd PNdU?(: [.U?(i QBI WBL( @((P ?NPL(.d() $.NQ N.UkUPBR ?M..(P?I Bd dUQ( N$ ;.UPdUPk BP) QBI )U$$(. $.NQ ?M..(Pd .Bd(i: 8RR UP$N.QBdUNP ?NPiU)(.() THE REFINED CARGO If these shorts don’t look like the THE SUPERIOR SLIP-ON Inspired by the streamlined style THE NON-SCHLUBBYPLEATWell-placed single pleats—and .(RUB@R(h WNK(L(.>UdWBi @((P iM;;RU() @I dWU.);B.dU(i BP) iWNMR) PNd @( .(RU() NP Bi B??M.Bd( N. ?NQ;R(d(: 05MBR +NMiUPk \;;N.dMPUdI: baggy, balloon-pocketed cargoes you wore to college keggers, favoredbyrock climbers, these minimalistcottontwill shorts do a nice pocket detail—add visual intrigue to these shorts. consider it a good thing. UtilityShorts, €142, clubmonaco.com sportywith subtlety. Original GShorts, $50/€45,gramicci.com Wallace & Barnes Japanese Indigo Shorts, €49, jcrew.com W14 | Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015|W3 MANSION CULTURE FAST FIVE T MBER MUSEUM Counter Offers LA CTION LLE OPEN-AIR CO

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Afteroom Bar Stool, $400, menudesignshop.com   Alex Gufler for TON Merano PLAY SPACE Toshiko Horiuci MacAdam’s ‘Knitted Wonder Space 2’ (2009) Bar Stool, from $507, stillfried.com  HAKONE OPEN-AIR MUSEUM, JAPAN  EKEBERG PARK, NORWAY Japan’s first open-air museum, Hakone was High on a bluff overlooking the city center and its ADVERTISEMENT founded in 1969 on a 7-hectare site near Mount fiord, the Ekeberg area was marked by prehistoric Fuji. The permanent collection of some 120 works rock carvings as early as the Iron Age. A large basks in a setting that makes the most of sea- abbey farm in the Middle Ages, it eventually sonal shifts, from blossoming cherry trees to fiery became a city park, and gained fame as the autumn foliage. Along with a major cache of 26 viewpoint for Edvard Munch’s 1893 painting Henry Moores, the lineup includes Rodin, Miró, “The Scream.” (Today visitors can create their Maillol, Léger, Zadkine, Noguchi, Saint-Phalle, Barry own “Scream” using a frame from a performance Flanagan, Lynn Chadwick, Antony Gormley, Carl in 2013 by Serbian artist Marina Abramović, Milles and French sculptor Gabriel Loire, whose marking Munch’s 150th anniversary.) Set in thick “Symphonic Sculpture” is an 18-meter tower lined woods and grassy clearings populated by deer Julian Schnabel’s ‘Silencio’ (1988) in stained glass with a circular staircase rising in- and foxes, the Ekebergparken Sculpture Park, side. The younger-set fave: “Woods of Net,” an funded by Norwegian collector and businessman immense, brilliantly colored hand-knit net by To- Christian Ringnes, opened in 2013 with an eclectic shiko Horiuchi MacAdam. Meant for kids to jump collection of some 30 works by artists including in and bounce around, it’s strung inside a timber Rodin, Renoir, Dalí, Maillol, James Turrell, Jenny What’s Hot in dome built using ancient temple techniques. Holzer, Jake and Dinos Chapman, Damien Hirst 1,600 yen (€12), open daily 9 a.m.-5 p.m.; Ninotaira and Louise Bourgeois. Free, open daily; Kongsveien 1121, Hakone; hakone-oam.or.jp 23, Oslo; ekebergparken.com Provence? Art JOHN’SISLAND –VEROBEACH, FLORIDA BOCA/DELRAY BEACH, FLORIDA MIDDLETOWN,RHODE ISLAND Located in the exclusiveseaside community of John’sIsland, this 4 Incredible opportunity at Seven Bridges -brand new homes in ahighly PARADISE. Magnificent 5bedroom oceanfront with unparalleled viewsof bedroom, 12,303± GSF Gem Island estate offers breathtaking sunsets, lappool, amenitized non-golf community in the Boca Raton /Delray Beach area. Generous Second Beach and the Atlantic. Situated on 1.55 acres on Easton’sPointwith The South of France is the country’s art hub this summer dock with lift, and seawall-protected sandybeach. Unsurpassed features include, features include impact glass, marble countertops, gourmet kitchens and deeded access to Elephant Rock,anatural saltwater pool, and rocky beach. custom finishes, screened lanai with fireplace, librarywith fireplace &bar,and 30,000 sq. ft. club. LowHOA fees, close to world-class shopping, greatschools. Sun-filled and spacious offering casual areas with acombination family, Theexhibit on the 67-year-old Mr. stunning tree-top views from the upper level. Inquire today! diningarea, and kitchen with walls of windows, 2-storyliving room,master BY JASON CHOW Shore, the director of the photographypro- suite with balcony, and finished lower level. gram at BardCollege, includes around 400 $8,000,000 www.JohnsIslandRealEstate.com From the $700’sto$2million glhomes.com $5,250,000GustaveWhite.com THIS MONTH, art watchersinFranceare printsand spans his career,including sev- looking south—from Paris to the olive eral from his “Uncommon Places,” aseries groves and ruin-bedecked cities of of early color photographs of 1970s Ameri- John’sIsland Real Estate Company GL Homes Gustave White Sotheby’sInternational Realty Provence. Thelongtime Rencontres d’Arles cana, with afocus on the motel rooms, phone: 772.231.0900, 800.327.3153 e: [email protected] phone: 800.875.2179 phone: 401.849.3000 photographyfestival kicked off with afocus rusting neon signs and carcultureofthe on two American greats. In Avignon, just time.The artist says that while making the 44 kilometersnorth, arecently founded series,“Iwas trying to understand how museum with works by Cy Twombly, Jean- photographs function, howathree-dimen- Michel Basquiat and Anselm Kiefer re- sional world is translated intoaflat image.” opened aftertwo yearsofrenovations. In Avignon, Paris-based dealer Yves SamStourdzé,director of the Arles Lambert had been showing his collection festival, believes the two events areput- in a mansion in the old city since 2000. In ting the region—long known forsummer 2012, he donated the art to the French theater and music events—on the art- state—the most artworks donated to the world map.“Foravisitor,the question French government since 1906. Then came todayis, ‘WhereamIgoing to spend two years of renovation of the mansion three days and see great culture?’ This and expansion into the adjacent building, part of Provenceisnow in the game,and costing €15 million. The 556-work collec- we’rehappy with that,” he says. tion of late-20th century art, one of It’sMr. Stourdzé’s firstyear at the France’s most significant, reopened on helm of the festival, which has been go- July 10. Avignon is already famed for its ing since1970. With the art world watch- summertime performing-arts festival. ing,he’sfocused two of the largest of his “I don’t have the means foraprivate 35 exhibits, featuring around 3,500 works museum, but Iwanted to keep the collec- TAMPAAREA, FLORIDA WILSHIRE BLVD., LOSANGELES, CA CRESTED BUTTE, COLORADO overall, on American photographers tion intact. Donating to the statewas my Walker Evans and Stephen Shore. best solution,” Mr.Lambert says. Florida’sBest 55+ Resort Lifestyle at Valencia Lakes – is easily EXCLUSIVE GRANDEUR: Aluxurycollection of 35 residences overlooking the Double TopRanch is aspectacular custom-built log home featuring agrand TheEvans showdives deep intohis leg- Themuseum inaugurated anew space accessible from both Tampa and Sarasota. Alifestyle director offers clubs,events, Los Angeles CountryClub and Beverly Hills. Furnished turn-key models draw residence of 3bedrooms, 3baths, 3,197 sq. ft. and guest cabins. Located acyasajournalist. Knownbest forim- fortemporaryexhibitions with ashowfo- 13 miles from downtown Crested Butte. This fisherman’sparadise has atrout shows and activities in a27,000 sq. ft. clubhouse. Enjoypools, bistro, fitness and inspiration from the home collections of leading international designers. Suites promptu portraitsofordinaryand oftenim- cusing on PatriceChéreau, aFrench op- everything from tennis to softball and more with new villas and single-family from 1,700 to 8, 215 sf –among the largest of anyLAluxurycondominium. BW stream running through the entire property and is surrounded by U.S. National poverished Americans,Evans worked for eraand theater director and filmmaker homes from the $200’s-$400’s. Trybefore you buy. is the NA flagship of Emaar Properties –owners of the world’stallest building Forests, situated on forty acres along Cement Creek. Stay &Play for 3days and 2nights for $99! and developer of the world’sfirst Armani hotel. BeverlyWestResidences.com several magazines including Life, Harpers who died in 2013.There’salso an exhibi- Bazaar,Vanity Fair and Fortune,apublica- tion featuring pieces from themain col- From the $200’stothe $400’sglhomes.com From the mid $3M’s. Penthouse prices on request. $3,998,000 DoubleTopRanch.com tion that employedhim from 1945 to 1965. lection, including works by Christo, Rich- ARKEN

Teles Properties GP TheArles exhibition, curated by Mr. ardSerraand Julian Schnabel. Stourdzé and longtime Evans expert Da- “I’m from the South of France, and I GL Homes The Beverly West Residences Lauren Scott vid Campany, looks at the photographer wanted the art to be based in the south,” phone: 800.495.6406 phone: 310.550.0581 email: [email protected] phone: 714.658.5590 [email protected] L/EKEBER

AA as apioneer in modern magazine design Mr.Lambert says.“Iwanted to decentral-

KV and places his printsnexttothe final izeusaway from Paris.Onatrain, we’re

AR magazine pagetoshowhow journalism lessthan three hoursaway from Paris. IV To Advertise Call: +44 (0) 207-572-2124 INTO THE WOODS Sean Henry’s ‘Walking Woman’ (2010) and art intertwine. It’sreally not far.” W2 | Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015|W15 CULTURE MANSION FLOWER SCHOOL GreaterOutdoors Cool Katz Forarefreshingly restrained summer bouquet, floral designer LindseyTaylor riffsonalandscape painting by AlexKatz Old and new, in formal gardens, lush EVERYSUMMER since 1954, the to offer little to work from, no it? Aflowery arrangement with Brooklyn-born painter Alex Katz gesture at all. But, the longer I showy blooms didn’t feel right: It countryside or untamed wilderness, sculpture has migrated north to the town of looked, the more I began to appre- needed to feel modern and simpli- Lincolnville, Maine, where he ciate how his zoomed-in focus had fied and, aboveall, mid-summery. parks dedicated to modern and contemporary paints large-scale, pared-down a moody, mesmerizing quality that So I went with a selection of landscapes inspired by the coun- engulfs the viewer, and I saw how just three plants: a dark purple art are now found around the globe, displaying tryside. Now 87, Mr. Katz, best I could interpret it. fountain grass that echoed the known for portraits whose un- I chose “4 pm” (2014), a large dark branches in the painting, to monumental works in harmony—or in eye- painterly flatness anticipated pop vertical landscape with elegant frame the left side of the arrange- art, is more popular than ever— brushwork so characteristically ment; white astilbe to suggest the opening dissonance—with the natural beauty through Sept. 6, he’s the subject reductive it barely registers, cou- shimmering effect of the water of a wide-ranging retrospective, pled with an almost cartoonlike and sky; and the silvery-tan feath- of their surroundings. Here are five to put on “This is Now,” at Atlanta’s High flat line. I loved the palette of ery seed heads of the early bloom- Museum of Art. chartreuse-yellow, creamy white, ing pulsatilla. your wish list. —Judy Fayard Choosing his work as my jump- grays, brown and a hint of blue My goal was to mimic the ing-off point for this month’s ar- for the house. tremulous, late-afternoon light in rangement seemed a significant Ihappened to have an upright, Mr. Katz’s canvas, with a similarly floral challenge. His style appears angular ceramic vessel with simi- limited range of colors, reflecting larly emphatic lines and citrus-yel- the haze that often settles in the A MIDSUMMER’S DREAM Feathery astilbe adds an evocativesoftness to lowtint, but what exactly to put in sky on a hot July day. the bouquet, left, based on Alex Katz’s 2014 painting ‘4 pm,’ right

STEPHEN KENT JOHNSON FORTHE WALL STREET JOURNAL, FLORAL STYLING BY LINDSEY TAYLOR, PROP STYLING BY NIDIA CUEVA(ARRANGEMENT); ALEX KATZ/GAVIN BROWN’SENTERPRISE/VAGA, NEW YORK, NY,PHOTOGRAPH BY THOMASMÜLLER (INSPIRATION) ADVERTISEMENT ON. THOMPS LETT L. . Y .C /J JERR MUY C./ C. DU CETIME PA O/S SUVER LALANNE/DOMAINE DI UDE MARK CLA ART WALK Mark di Suvero’s ‘Mozart’s Birthday’ (1989), left, and ‘Frog Legs’ (2002) at Storm King AN APPLE A DAY Claude Lalan’s ‘Pomme de New York’ (2006) at Domaine du Muy Naples, Florida SADDLE RIVER, NEW JERSEY WATER MILL, NEW YORK  STORM KING ART CENTER, NEW YORK  DOMAINE DU MUY, FRANCE Covering 200 hectares in the Hudson River Valley, 97 kilometers north of Manhattan, Storm King was Officially opened this week, this newsculpturepark wascreated by Jean-Gabriel Mitterrand Minto Single-Family Estate Homes located in an area famous for This Saddle River estate, offered for the first time, includes agracious, Become enchanted by the grandeur of this home set on 5+/- landscaped founded in 1960 by local businessmen Ralph E. Ogden and H. Peter Stern and now houses 100-plus (nephewofthe former French president), whose Paris gallery has focused on sculpturesinceits extraordinarygolf communities. TwinEagles boasts not just one championship slate roof manor colonial and asubstantial carriage house, designed solely for acres and offering six en-suite bedrooms. Indoors, the layout provides a sculptures dating from post-World War II to present day. Landscaping is key here: A number of the founding in 1988. Near the town of Le Muy,north of St.Tropez, the 8-hectareprivatepark offers course awarded “Best New Private Course in America” by Golf Magazine, but fun and relaxation. Aunique opportunity where two contiguous premier East gracious living room, formal dining room, chef’s kitchen and additional rooms Hill lots, totaling over 4.5 acres, provide the sought-after private setting for the throughout. Outdoors features heated pool, vine-shaded loggia, pool house works are site-specific; others are precisely placed in sites tailored for them. There are also earthworks, arugged, 1.6-kilometer-long trail through pine trees, cork oaksand herb-scentedshrubs, dotted two 18-hole, tour-quality courses and aspectacular 47,000 sq. ft. countryclub lavished with everyimaginable amenity.Best of all, golf membership initiation ultimate in entertaining and enjoyment. and asecluded tennis court. Whatever your pleasure, this house is the perfect for which landscaping is the artist’s medium, including Maya Lin’s sumptuous, 4.5-hectare “Storm King with almost 40 sculptures, some site-specific. The opening exhibition, assembled by artistic fee is included with everyMinto new home purchase. home for all seasons. Wavefield” (2009), a joyously undulating seven-row sea of grass. Visit on foot, by tram or bike (rentals director Edward Mitterrand and curator Simon Lamunière, includes worksbyJohn Armleder, $11,900,000 Co-Exclusive: $4,975,000 www.292RosesGroveRoad.com from $8 an hour) to take in works by artists including Louise Bourgeois, Mark di Suvero, Barbara Hep- Antony Gormley, Subodh Gupta, Keith Haring, CarstenHöller,Yayoi Kusama, Claude and François- From the low $500s to over$1million mintofla.com worth, Sol LeWitt, Alexander Liberman, Henry Moore, Roy Lichtenstein, Louise Nevelson, Isamu Noguchi, Xavier Lalanne, Arik Levy and Sol LeWitt.Ahouse, redesigned by architect India Mahdavi, and Marron Gildea Realtors Saunders &Associates Nam June Paik and Beverly Pepper. $15, open Wed.-Sun., hours vary from 10 a.m.-8 p.m., April-November; gardens by celebrated landscape architect Louis Benech areset to open on the ground next year. Old Pleasant Hill Road, Mountainville; stormking.org By appointment only May-October; 83490LeMuy; domainedumuy.com Minto Communities NancyFalk, Broker Associate Cathy Tweedy phone: 888.379.9868 phone: 201.447.6100 cell: 201.294.3247 [email protected] phone: 917.539.7374 [email protected]

OLIVER RANCH, CALIFORNIA  Steve and Nancy Oliver bought this 40-hectare ranch in Sonoma County in 1981 to graze a herd of sheep. The couple began supplying restaurants with organic lamb, built a weekend house, and commissioned their first sculpture, Judith Shea’s “Shepherd’s Muse,” in 1985. Since then, 18 site- specific works have been specially commissioned. Tours, which Mr. Oliver often leads, are used to help fund nonprofit organizations and the two- and-a-half-hour walk takes in works by Terry Al- len, Bill Fontana, Bruce Nauman, Richard Serra, Ursula Von Rydingsvard and Roger Berry, whose 3.5 meter-long “Darwin” steel arch tracks the summer and winter paths of the sun and casts precise shadows on solstices and equinoxes. Donation, by appointment only, April 15-June 1, 141 LONG NECK POINT,DARIEN, CONNECTICUT FINGER LAKES, UPSTATENEW YORK CENTRAL COAST, CALIFORNIA Sept. 15-Nov. 1; 22205 River Rd., Geysersville; oliverranchfoundation.org This spectacular 2.37 acre waterfront estate is just 50 minutes to NYC! Stella Maris, “Star of the Sea” located in the historical Village of Skaneateles 900 acreplus California Central Coast Ranch available for purchase or joint Located on Long Neck Point, it includes a2003 built architect designed 7,830SF on 9.67 acres with 881’ of level lake frontage providing abreathtaking panoramic venture. 850 acres more or less plantable. Excellent water area, two AG wells main house, anewly refurbished gunite pool, a1,675SF pool house, a400SF lake view– all within walking distance to the village shops and restaurants. The existing PG&E natural gas and electricity on site. CA Highway 46 frontage and studio/office building, tennis court and brand new dock. Very private, yet close to property contains amain house, two guest houses, bath house, and boathouse; identity. downtown Darien, train, and Pear Tree Point Beach. MLS#30447 total 25,615 SF of buildings. MLS#: S336628

$13,495,000 www.raveis.com www.pioneercos.com Price upon request UMAN

NA William Raveis Exceptional Properties

UCE Elaine Falkenberg Albert Giannino M. P. Wilkinson phone: 917.941.5362 phone: 315.200.1842 [email protected] phone: 949.474.7004 [email protected]

STEP TO IT NCH/BR

Bruce Nauman’s “Untitled” (1998-99) RA cuts through Oliver Ranch OLIVER To Advertise Call: +44 (0) 207-572-2124 W16 | Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. GEAR & GADGETS

W5 W14

Reality Bikes STYLE |TRAVEL |FOOD |DRINK |DESIGN |GEAR|PROPERTY |CULTURE |SPORTS Friday - Sunday, July 17 - 19, 2015 WSJ.com/life Manywho undertakearduous amateur racesgiveupeverything to prepare. One man bucks the trend RF SECOND SIGHT BY JOHN W. MILLER Aspen in fall and summer MOMENT /

CERTAIN AMATEUR BIKE RACES attractspecific GES types of riders. Take cyclosportives,competi- IMA tiverides over the same terrain as raceslikethe GETTY

Tour de Francecourse.Maybe it’sthe expense / of traveling to Europe during the high season, V when the most popular cyclosportives areheld. SNO Maybe it’sthe notorious difficulty of the rides, PO which canspan 160 kilometers. Whatever the GES; reason, the typical rider is amoneyed weekend IMA warrior—someone with the time and financial GETTY means to invest in asophisticated training regi- / men, not to mention afive-figurebike. HOEN

In other words, not me. SC KIPP ,

Iwas up forthe challenge,but I LEFT OM wasn’tgoing to blowupmy FR savings account or my social life

Nevertheless, ayear ago, my former boss andcurrent cycling buddy,Peter Fritsch, pro- posedweride La Marmotte,one of the most famous and taxing cyclosportives.Itruns 174 kilometersthrough the rugged French Alps and culminates in aclimb to the legendaryAlpe d’Huez(elevation: 1,880 meters). ATour moun- tain stageusually calls forbetween 3,000 and 4,500metersoftotal climbing.LaMarmotte? Over 5,000.It’snot unusual forathirdofthe riderstogiveupbeforethe finish line. Iwas up forthe challenge, but on afew conditions: Iwasn’t going to blowupmysav- ingsaccount or my social life, hireacoach or calculatemyVO2 Max (oxygencapacity). I waswilling to train hard, but reasonably.And instead of investing in a€10,000 ultralight bike to shave a few kilos off my ride, I stuck Many HappyReturns with the trusty 8-kilo Cannondale Caad-10 I

purchased three years ago for €1,000. ERS

Achieving my goal would require cycling BY common sense.SoIasked experienced cy-

clists, nutritionists and other experts for ad- MICHAEL vice.And Ispent ayear putting that know- Travel doesn’t have to be a bucket-list rush. Rediscover the joys of revisiting the same spot how to work (see my training plan, right) on the streets of Pittsburgh, Pa., where I live. THE SANE WAY TO TRAIN // HYPER-OBSESSIVE MILLIONAIRES NEED NOT APPLY returned at least five times and while we were able,tothe point whereIroamed the streets experiences with Aspen were on winter ski BY JEN MURPHY This year’s La Marmotte washeld on July by no means locals,weeventually felt aspecial with the confidenceofabona fide Parisian. breaks and the mountain town lived up to every 4. At dawn, Peterand Ishuffled intothe pad- The myth: Ta ke a sabbatical. The myth: Yo u need to hire a the leaders on my Tu esday group The myth: Yo u’ll never finish attachment to this little town half way around There was never an urgency to rush through expectation. When friends invited me to return dock in Bourgd’Oisans,the starting villageat Yo u’re going to have to devote nutritionist to evaluate your red- rides. unless you’ve pared every gram spent much of my early 20s ticking the world from our owntruehomes.Ithad, in aday of sightseeing and museum hopping, in the summer Ibalked. Aspen wasmywinter the foot of the Alpe d’Huezinsoutheastern your entire life to this endeavor. blood-cell count, monitor your off your bike. Without a €10,000 places offmy“bucket list”:Aweek- away,become our home away from home,of- and getting lost caused pleasurerather than place. But avisit in June revealed it to be just France. Themayor of the town cut the ribbon, diet as you train and prescribe The myth: Yo ur practice runs carbon-frame bike with an elec- end in Paris, a week skiing in Aspen, fering the comfort of familiar faces and rituals. panic because therewas the reassurancethat as lovable—and in manyways morebeautiful. and we were off.After along,slowclimb,we My reality: I have a full-time oat beta-glucan protein shakes. should approximate the distance tronic shifter and Kevlar tires, I aholidayinSt. Bart’s. Thethought of Theconnection I I’dreturn and my city Constantsremained: the truffle fries at Ajax zipped down winding roads overlooking aval- job, friends and other hobbies. I and hill grades of the actual race. you’re toast. returning to aplaceseemed likea felt toward Byron Bay would be waiting with Tavern were just as delicious and my yoga in- ley.“Letthe rabbitsgo,” said Peter, referring still managed to complete La My reality: Yo u can eat like a Be prepared to book a flight to wasteofapassport stamp; amissed opportu- was my first realiza- open arms. structor at Shakti Shala still taught Thursday to ablur of passing Dutch, Danish and Belgian Marmotte. “To go into the Mar- normal person. When I first con- somewhere with similar terrain. My reality: I can’t afford a nity to see another city or foreign land. tion that travel There’s a certain intimacy My returns were a mornings. But seeing Aspen in adifferent sea- riders, whose dangerous downhill speed might motte for the first time, it would tacted Linda Samuels, nutrition- €10,000 bike. Thankfully, I didn’t During university Itook time off to travel shouldn’t be about between you and a city when chance for me to play son allowedmetoget to knowawhole other lead to an early burnout. La Marmotte’s feed be pretty unwise to ride less than ist for Northwestern University’s My reality: There’snoAlps-like need one. “You need a good bike around Australia, determined to see the entire checking places off a out an alternativelife side of atownIthought I’dknown so well. stations,spaced every30kilometers 2,000 [practice] miles,” triathlon club, she sent me a terrain nearby, but Pittsburgh is, that’s adapted to you,” said Mr. countryinsix months.But something surpris- list. It should be you become a revisitor in Paris whereI I’vesincegone back everyseason to see or so, served quartered or- says John Thomas, a 1,200-word email proposing I un- luckily,hilly.Its mostfamous bicy- Thomas, the French cycling ing happened halfway intothe trip.Despite about forming arela- shopped the markets, the Technicolor wildflowers, the orange and anges, dates,bananas and author takes on cycling coach based in dergo tests to measure every- cle race,the DirtyDozen, goesup coach. I rode my €1,000 Caad-10 our cross-countryambitions,myboyfriend tionship with aplace. read novels in cafés gold fall foliage, and of course the magical The e hunks of Camembert. La Marmott France who finished thing from my body fat to sweat 12 of the city’smostextreme in- and paid a fitter to adjust the and Ikept returning to the laid-back hippie There’sacertain intimacybetween youand and sipped natural wines with friends at néo- winter powder.The beauty of going back to a Scorched by the sun, we 76th in this year’s rate. It made my head spin. clines, including one of the world’s handlebars, seat and pedals to beach town of Byron BayinNew South Wales. acity when youbecome arevisitor. On my bistrots. As arevisitorIdidn’t have the head- placeisthat youcan createrelationships and stopped at all of them. Marmotte. He rides I called Ms. Samuels. All I re- steepest urban streets. It was my body, which, surprisingly, Theconstant excitement and stressofnavi- firsttrip to Paris Ifelt awkwardand insecure, aches of high rentsormundane tasks such as emotionalconnections.When youstart to re- When we finally looped 500 miles a week. ally need to know, I said, was if grueling, but wasIdoing enough? makes a big difference: My pedal gating anew placeevery few days leftuscrav- as if on afirst date. Therewas the immediate taking out the garbage. Paris and Iwereal- turn, you realize that travel isn’t just about back to the foot of Alpe His 2,000-mile it’s OK to eat spaghetti and drink Iasked SteveCummings, aPitts- strokes felt more efficient. ing our simple Byron Bayroutine: lazy morn- attraction of somethingnew and different, yet lowedtobeinapermanent honeymoon phase. discovery. It’sabout rediscoveryand remind- d’Huez, 164 kilometersand 10 recommendation is a beer. “There’s no question carbs burgh semiproracer, foradvice. Though satisfied with my bi- ingssipping flat whites from ourfavoritecafé, also acertain fear of the unknown, so Iwalked As with anyrelationship,there’salways the ing ourselves to keep our eyes wide open— hourslater,Peter decided not bare minimum. I are a preferential fuel for the His counsel: patience. “Go easy cycle, I questioned its gears. My hikes up to the Cape Byron Lighthouse,sunset with my head hidden in aguidebook. risk of disappointment. What if my placelets even when we’re somewhere familiar. to tackle it. His feet were started in the winter, body, like protein and fat,”she up those first climbs and don’t smallest back ring had 28 teeth. surfsessions,and barbecues on the beach. We Each time IrevisitedIfelt morecomfort- me down? What if it’s changed? My firstfew Please turn to page W6 numb,his back sore. Also,it taking 45-minute said. However, “there’s still a lot worry about other people.Any- Replacing it with a bigger ring wasalmost 40 degrees.Around spin classes. In we don’t know about nutrition,” body who hard-pedals pastyou would make it easier to pedal up- us,ridersweresplayedleftand April, as the Pitts- she warned. “So instead of tak- up that first hill is going to die,or hill. But was it, as one mechanic [INSIDE] right along the road. Some burgh winter re- ing vitamin pills, it’s better to eat he’sriding the To ur.” suggested, unmanly to get what walked their bikes.Otherswere ceded, I headed a mix of real fruits and vegeta- But how was I going to find a cyclists call a granny gear? being carted off in ambulances. outdoors. I cobbled bles.” Serious athletes, she said, course around Pittsburgh that “Get the bigger ring, you’ll be HOW FLORIDA Idecided to go on alone.I together a routine: don’t drink booze at all. mirrored the Marmotte’s full 110 glad you have it on that last hill,” MADE HER stopped to splash my facewith 25-mile rides be- I ate fruit and eggs in the miles? Tu rns out I didn’t need to. said Mr. Cummings. “Riders from Chris Evert W12 waterspouting from arock,and Ichattedwith fore work, and one or two morning, a bountiful salad at “You just need to ride 60% of Chicago make fun of Pittsburgh two Brits. “It’stoo hot foramateurs,” said one. tougher rides on weekends. De- lunch, and pasta and fish or the length you’re training for,” cyclists because we have easier Inodded, and stumbled toward my bike. spite not riding much outdoors in chicken for dinner. I avoided pizza said Aaron Stein, an amateur gears, but the only thing they Did I have the legs to finish? the first three months, I’d and junk food, and abstained racer and co-owner of Kindred have to climb is the wind.” Thepracticemiles,and all those Pittsburgh counted 2,500 milestotal by the from alcohol five days a week. In Cycles in Pittsburgh. “On race I got the granny gear, and si- hills,had liftedmylimits. It hurt.Icrossed big day—all without ruining my two months, I dropped 10 day, the adrenaline will carry you lently sang its praises as I plod- the line with a time of 10 hours and 57 min- social life or quitting work. pounds and began riding with the rest of the way.” ded up Alpe d’Huez. —J.M. utes—3,363rd of the 7, 500 who started. CRICKET MATCH Wine meets whites W5 QUICK MARCH The GAT steps up W4 SEPARATED Success of divided living W8