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Southwest Scotland SCOTLAND terrain has always been, but have been cut course was founded by four Glasgow-based with mowers, while Hebridean black sheep golfers who came across the perfect piece assist in keeping the rough down. of land next to Gailes train station on the railway line to Glasgow. TURNBERRY On 11 November 1897, Western Gailes Unfortunately, the weather was so bad that was born and with no designer in place, instead of taking the 40-minute Kintyre the greenkeeper Mr Morris was given the Express ferry over to Turnberry, it was the task of having nine holes ready by early long route round and a three-hour journey the following year, with the full 18 holes by road. It’s a beautiful journey to take, or opening that June. I must admit, after so I’m told – I was asleep on the floor of our walking off the 18th green, I’m not sure minibus! Well, what’s a golf tour without a if Mr Morris was a greenkeeper or a genius couple of late-night drinking sessions? We – his design stands up there with any of Dr hit Turnberry in a 30mph wind, with no Alister MacKenzie’s, Harry Colt’s, Donald let-up in the rain, so after a hearty meal it Ross’ or James Braid’s. was waterproofs on and out into the storm. It’s a course that will challenge you Ugadale Hotel, Machrihanish To say I loved every minute, every shot, mentally and physically and test every club every blade of grass, lost ball, wet grip, in your bag. Whatever you’ve read and been leaky waterproof, would be an told about the famous run of holes along ESSENTIALS understatement, I’d do it all again, in the the sea from the 5th to the 13th, it’s all true Western Gailes’ 8th same conditions, in an instant. Yes, it’s and more. You really do have to experience another stamp on my pilgrim’s book – but it playing them yourself – they’re some of the PLAY was so much more than that. most enjoyable holes you’ll ever play. l Dunaverty Golf Club GF: £28wd, £30we Southwest Scotland DUNDONALD LINKS EARL OF MAR COURSE AT Stats: par 66, 4,799 yards Dundonald Links opened for play in 2003, MAR HALL RESORT W: dunavertygolfclub.com but if you didn’t know it, you’d think this The third hole is impressive, with the course had stood here for hundreds of River Clyde and Old Kilpatrick Hills as its Machrihanish years. I’m a big Kyle Phillips fan – the way backdrop and the Erskine Bridge to the right. GF: £30-£62 he combines natural links-style golf with It makes for a dramatic view, especially with Stats: par 70, 6,462 yards modern methods, seeding and irrigation the boats bobbing along the water. The 14th W: machgolf.com PILGRIMS’ WAY makes his courses some of the best modern is the signature hole and you can see why: James Mason reaffirms his devotion to Scotland by enjoying some wonderful tracks in the world today. it has a high tee, again with the Clyde as a Machrihanish Dunes scenery, quirky design ideas and a beguiling blend of modernity and history On the day I played it, I found the fairways backdrop. The bunkering and a solitary tree GF: £30-£55 to be fairly generous, but you could see how make for the perfectly sculpted hole. I’m Stats: par 72, 7,175 yards oing on a golf tour to Scotland from its high vantage point, where you great run of holes to the 166-yard par-3 15th. they could be pulled in to toughen it up sure many a photo is taken here. W: machrihanishdunes.com always has that feel of making a can see the Mull of Kintyre and the Ulster for the big events. Considering the weather This Dave Thomas-designed course is pilgrimage. The country has so coastline on a clear day. MACHRIHANISH DUNES we’ve had this year, the large, undulating only two years old and it’s still bedding Turnberry many great courses, all steeped I played on a grey rainy day, but I must If Old Tom can be happy with his creation greens were fantastic – rolling fast and true. in. It’s totally different to the major courses GF: Ailsa £180wd, £199we Gin the history of the game, that it’s hard to say, when I sat down in the little clubhouse, at Machrihanish, then David McLay Kidd The yellow gorse that lines the fairways was that you’ll play here, and is not trying to Stats: par 70, 7,211 yards decide where to go and play. No matter what which is a throwback to the 1930s, I had a must be elated with his contribution. While in full flower – beautiful to behold, but it can compete with them. Only four miles from W: turnberry.co.uk part of Scotland you go to, you’ll almost chuckle. One thing that will stick long in the it’s hard to compare from generation to kill your scorecard with just one visit. Glasgow Airport, Mar Hall is the perfect certainly feel the need to go back. That’s memory is the square greens! generation, I feel the Dunes will one day place to stay on the first or last night of Dundonald Links why I see golf in Scotland as a journey more be the number one course in the area. It’s a WESTERN GAILES your Scottish tour. GF: £40-£95wd, £50-£95we than a destination. Each time you visit, it’s MACHRIHANISH stunning track, with some fantastic routes You can feel the sense of history when you So there you have it. Seven great courses, Stats: par 72, 7,100 yards like picking up your stamp on a pilgrimage Next up is Old Tom Morris’ course at through the dunes. There aren’t too many walk into the clubhouse at Western Gailes, all with a different feel, history and W: dundonaldlinks.com route such as Spain’s Camino de Santiago. Machrihanish. The club was originally better settings than this. and the members still have a rule that they personality. You may never complete your This particular journey saw me visiting known as the Kintyre Golf Club and came It’s hard to imagine that little modern must turn up in a jacket and tie and leave pilgrimage – there are so many courses to Western Gailes the south-west of Scotland, a tale of seven into being in March 1876. Golf had been equipment was involved in building this wearing a jacket and tie. But don’t worry, play – but one thing’s for sure, you’ll GF: £60-£125 (Mon-Sat), £95-£125 (Sun) courses in seven days, taking in old and new. played on the links before then, but the course. The only developments to take place that rule doesn’t extend to non-members. certainly enjoy treading its well-worn path, Stats: par 71, 7,014 yards The omens seemed especially good when I meeting that took place at the Argyll Arms were the shaping of the tees and greens It wasn’t until 1930 that play was allowed and swapping stories of birdies and bogeys W: westerngailes.com spotted the female pilot on the flight from Hotel made things official. The course – the fairways are as natural today as the on Sundays, an astonishing 33 years after the with other disciples along the way. Glasgow to Campbeltown wearing a FootJoy was extended from 10 to 12 holes, on Earl of Mar Course at Mar Hall Resort glove as we came into land! the advice of Charles Hunter of Prestwick, Turnberry 9th hole GF: £35-£60 and then to 18 by Old Tom Morris in Stats: par 70, 6,507 yards DUNAVERTY 1879, when the first hole was moved to W: marhall.com Compared with some of today’s monster its current location. It’s a stunning opener tracks, Dunaverty weighs in at only 4,799 – there aren’t many better in the world, STAY yards. But if you think you’re going to beat let alone Scotland. It’s played across the The Ugadale Hotel this beautiful links into submission you’ll be beach, which is in play and runs all the W: machrihanishdunes.com mistaken. What Dunaverty lacks in length, it way along the left of the hole. Cut off as certainly makes up for in strategic demand. much as you dare! Barcelo Troon Marine Hotel The course was founded in 1889 and is Other standout holes are the 4th – 121 W: pumahotels.co.uk/hotels/scotland/ Getty Images, James Mason Getty sited on ground around Dunaverty Rock, yards from an elevated tee – the tough par-4 barcelo-troon-marine-hotel which offers some spectacular views – none 7th at 476 yards off the very back tees, and more so than on the 3rd, with Dunaverty the 341-yard 8th. The 558-yard 10th is a Mar Hall Resort Photography Beach running along the right, or the 11th superb start to the back nine, and kicks off a W: marhall.com 88 | Golf Monthly Ultimate Travel Golf Monthly Ultimate Travel | 89.
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