ALPS : MAMMOTH PHOTOGRAPHS Thomas Crauwels
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
Load more
Recommended publications
-
Sir John Herschel and the Breithorn
298 SIR JOHN HERSCHEL AND THE BREITHORN • SIR JOHN HERSCHEL AND THE BREITHORN BY CLAIRE ELIANE ENGEL HERE is a tradition according to which the Breithorn was first climbed in 1813 by a completely unknown Frenchman, Henri 1 • • Maynard and later by Sir John Herschel. F. F. Tuckett inci- dentally mentioned the fact that Sir John Herschel had told him he had ascended the Breithorn from the Theodul in 1821 ; Tuckett had never heard of Maynard.2 Lord Minto, who went up the mountain in 1830, called it Monte Rosa and said, it was the summit ascended in I822 by Sir' John Herschel. 3 His authority vvas either Sir John himself, or J oseph-Marie Couttet who had been the first guide of both parties. Coolidge accepted 1822 as the date of Herschel's climb.4 According to Tuckett, no Zermatt guide had ever reached the summit before him, in June 1859. · Now it is obvious that there is some missing link in this story, and I • • endeavoured to find it. Thanks to the great .kindness of the Rev. Sir John Herschel, the astronomer's grandson, I am able to give the com plete story of the second ascent of the Breithorn by Sir John Herschel in 1821. His travel-diaries are kept in Slough Observatory House, the family seat, and his grandson allowed me to read them and to have his drawings photographed. I found a few more details in Sir John's letters to the Genevese astronomer Alfred Gautier vvhich are kept in the Bibliotheque Publique et U niversitaire in Geneva. -
Alphubel (4206 M)
Alphubel (4206 m) Hochtour | Walliser Alpen 500+1500 Hm | insg. 12:00 Std. | Schwierigkeit (3 von 6) Vom Gletscherdorf Saas-Fee aus präsentiert sich der Alphubel von seiner schönsten Seite - als gewaltiger Gletscherkoloss und als einer der markantesten Viertausender überhaupt. Der Normalweg führt auf der Rückseite des Berges vom Mattertal über die heimelige Täschhütte auf das große Gipfelplateau, das wie ein riesiger Tanzplatz zwischen Himmel und Erde wirkt. Technisch gehört die Normalroute auf den Alphubel zu den leichteren Routen auf einen der für das Tourenbuch so begehrten Viertausender. © Tourentipp.com 2021 Seite 1/3 1 2 3 4 5 6 Schwierigkeit Kondition Gefahrenpotenzial Landschaft Frequentierung Anfahrt: Von Deutschland mit dem Auto über Oberalppass / Furka oder via Lötschberg-Bahnverladung ins Rhônetal nach Visp. Weiter von Visp über Stalden ins Mattertal nach Täsch (1450 m). Empfehlenswert ist auch die Anreise per Bahn über Zürich und Visp direkt nach Täsch. Von Täsch aus führt eine kleine Bergstraße zur Siedlung Ottavan auf der Täschalp (2205 m), dort gebührenfreier Parkplatz. Bahnreisende können auch eines der regelmäßig verkehrenden Sammeltaxis nutzen (SFr. 10,-, Stand 2013). Ausgangspunkt: Siedlung Ottavan auf der Täschalp (2205 m) im Mattertal Route: Hüttenzustieg: Auf gut beschildertem, breiten Hüttenweg in ca. 1 ¼ Stunden direkt zur Täschhütte (2701 m). Die Hütte ist bereits vom Parkplatz aus zu sehen. Gipfelanstieg: Von der Täschhütte (2701 m) führt ein deutlicher Weg (Schild: Alphubelsee) zunächst Richtung Ostsüdosten über zwei der drei „Schreienden Bäche“ in den Chumibodmen. Nun am dritten Bach entlang, jetzt steiler durch Blockwerk in östlicher Richtung. Die deutliche Spur verliert sich in verschiedenen kleinen Wegen, die aber alle über weichen Gletschersand am großen Alphubelsee vorbei zum Anseilplatz auf einer Felsenrippe am südlichen Arm des Alphubelgletschers führen (3300 m). -
Matterhorn Guided Ascent Ex Zermatt 2021
MATTERHORN 4,478M / 14,691FT EX ZERMATT 2021 TRIP NOTES MATTERHON EX ZERMATT TRIP NOTES 2021 TRIP DETAILS Dates: Available on demand July to September Duration: 6 days Departure: ex Zermatt, Switzerland Price: €5,870 per person A classic ‘must-do’ European climb. Photo: Mike Roberts The Matterhorn is undeniably the most magnificent and well-known peak in the Alps. Its bold pyramidal shape evokes emotions of wonderment and even fear in those who view it for the first time, as its four distinct faces stand omnipotent and menacing over the green meadows below. Separated by sharp ridges, the four faces are orientated to the four points of the compass, the northern aspects within Switzerland while the southern side lies in Italy. We ascend via the Hörnli Ridge that separates the rich heritage adds to the superb facilities, including North and East Faces via a long and technical route catered huts and lift systems offering services not requiring the utmost attention from climbers. The seen elsewhere. steep rock ridge is very involving and a successful attempt requires a rapid rate of ascent and full The Hörnli Ridge is the route by which the concentration by a fit party. The steep North and Matterhorn’s first ascent was made in 1865 by the East Faces drop away spectacularly on either side tenacious Englishman, Edward Whymper, after and the sense of exposure is dramatic. many attempts on the mountain. In what became the most famous alpine calamity of all time, the With its formidable history and the magnificent group suffered a terrible tragedy on the descent grandeur of its architecture, the Hörnli Ridge on when a rope broke resulting in the loss of four of the Matterhorn is a climb that is definitely worth the party. -
IFP 1707 Dent Blanche – Matterhorn – Monte Rosa
Inventaire fédéral des paysages, sites et monuments naturels d'importance nationale IFP IFP 1707 Dent Blanche – Matterhorn – Monte Rosa Canton Communes Surface Valais Evolène, Zermatt 26 951 ha Le Gornergletscher et le Grenzgletscher IFP 1707 Dent Blanche – Matterhorn – Monte Rosa Stellisee Hameau de Zmutt Dent Blanche avec glacier de Ferpècle 1 IFP 1707 Dent Blanche – Matterhorn – Monte Rosa 1 Justification de l’importance nationale 1.1 Région de haute montagne au caractère naturel et sauvage, avec nombreux sommets de plus de 4000 m d’altitude 1.2 Mont Rose, massif alpin avec le plus haut sommet de Suisse 1.3 Mont Cervin, montagne emblématique à forme pyramidale 1.4 Plusieurs glaciers de grande étendue avec marges proglaciaires intactes, en particulier le Gornergletscher, l’un des plus grands systèmes glaciaires de Suisse 1.5 Marmites glaciaires, roches polies et stries glaciaires, structures représentatives des diverses formes glaciaires 1.6 Situation tectonique unique dans les Alpes suisses, superposant des unités tectoniques et des roches de provenances paléogéographiques très variées 1.7 Vastes forêts naturelles de mélèzes et d’aroles 1.8 Phénomènes glaciaires et stades morainiques remarquables et diversifiés 1.9 Zones riches en cours d’eau et lacs d’altitude 1.10 Grande richesse floristique et faunistique, comprenant de nombreuses espèces rares et endémiques 1.11 Zmutt, hameau avec des bâtiments traditionnels bien conservés 2 Description 2.1 Caractère du paysage Le site Dent Blanche-Matterhorn-Monte Rosa est une zone de haute montagne encadrée de massifs montagneux imposants dans la partie méridionale du Valais et à la frontière avec l’Italie. -
The Matterhorn Centenary
TI-IE MATTERHORN CENTENARY THE MATTERHORN CENTENARY BY B. R. GOODFELLO'IV (Five illustrations: nos. 50- 54) DWARD WHYMPER must have appreciated in his lifetime that his ascent of the Matterhorn and his own dramatic account of the ............. disaster had added immeasurably to the glamour of that incom parable mountain. So he must have realised the great contribution which he made personally to the greater prosperity of the people of Zermatt; they have long acknowledged this and the centenary was closely linked with Whymper"s name. But he could scarcely have foreseen the impact of to-day's mass affluence, of the rise of ski-ing and of universal publicity on the Alpine village he had known first over 100 years ago. We had all expected for some years that the centenary of the Matter horn ascent would be used by Zermatt for publicity on the grand scale. With the true mountain lovers' distaste for the prostitution of the Alps for commercial ends, many decided to keep away in 1965. But by doing so they missed a great occasion. For, although the Festival Week was unashamedly dedicated to Zermatt propaganda, the whole of the func tions were conducted in the very best of taste. Above all Zermatt, for this week, was the meeting place for mountaineers from all over Europe and from America, India and further afield. Enjoying the warm and generous hospitality of our Swiss hosts, we made many valuable new friendships and renewed old ones. The Alpine Club came in some strength, more than fifty in number, many with their wives and some with their families. -
4000 M Peaks of the Alps Normal and Classic Routes
rock&ice 3 4000 m Peaks of the Alps Normal and classic routes idea Montagna editoria e alpinismo Rock&Ice l 4000m Peaks of the Alps l Contents CONTENTS FIVE • • 51a Normal Route to Punta Giordani 257 WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN ALPS 175 • 52a Normal Route to the Vincent Pyramid 259 • Preface 5 12 Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 101 35 Dent d’Hérens 180 • 52b Punta Giordani-Vincent Pyramid 261 • Introduction 6 • 12 North Face Right 102 • 35a Normal Route 181 Traverse • Geogrpahic location 14 13 Gran Pilier d’Angle 108 • 35b Tiefmatten Ridge (West Ridge) 183 53 Schwarzhorn/Corno Nero 265 • Technical notes 16 • 13 South Face and Peuterey Ridge 109 36 Matterhorn 185 54 Ludwigshöhe 265 14 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 114 • 36a Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) 186 55 Parrotspitze 265 ONE • MASSIF DES ÉCRINS 23 • 14 Eccles Couloir and Peuterey Ridge 115 • 36b Lion Ridge 192 • 53-55 Traverse of the Three Peaks 266 1 Barre des Écrins 26 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable 117 37 Dent Blanche 198 56 Signalkuppe 269 • 1a Normal Route 27 15 L’Isolée 117 • 37 Normal Route via the Wandflue Ridge 199 57 Zumsteinspitze 269 • 1b Coolidge Couloir 30 16 Pointe Carmen 117 38 Bishorn 202 • 56-57 Normal Route to the Signalkuppe 270 2 Dôme de Neige des Écrins 32 17 Pointe Médiane 117 • 38 Normal Route 203 and the Zumsteinspitze • 2 Normal Route 32 18 Pointe Chaubert 117 39 Weisshorn 206 58 Dufourspitze 274 19 Corne du Diable 117 • 39 Normal Route 207 59 Nordend 274 TWO • GRAN PARADISO MASSIF 35 • 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable Traverse 118 40 Ober Gabelhorn 212 • 58a Normal Route to the Dufourspitze -
1 Tydzień = 5 X 4000 M Npm
1 tydzień = 5 x 4000 m npm Pomysł na tygodniowy wyjazd alpejski zapadł jeszcze w czerwcu. Głównym celem na 7 dni w Alpach dla mnie i Marcina stał się Weisshorn (4505 m). Szczyt trudny do zdobycia ze względu na wysokość i odległość podejścia z „bazy”, czyli wioski Randa zlokalizowanej przed słynnym ale nieco niższym Matterhornem. Pomysł zainteresował także szersze grono wspinaczy naszego KW. Jednak skład wykrystalizował się tuż przed terminem wyjazdu i ostatecznie do Randy udali się: Marcin Miczke, Maciej Przebitkowski. Radek Sołtykowski i ja – Jacek Wichłacz. Termin: 8 – 16.08.2012r. Czyli tzw. długi weekend. Już następnego dnia, po rozbiciu namiotu na campingu w Randzie udaliśmy się na wyjścia aklimatyzacyjne. Z braku miejsc w schronisku wyjście do Weisshornhutte musieliśmy przesunąć do soboty. Razem zatem - czyli w czwórkę - wjechaliśmy kolejką na Klein Matterhorn i tu nasze drogi nieoczekiwanie się rozeszły. Jak się potem okazało na 5 dni. Marcin i ja postanowiliśmy wejść na Roccia Nera (4075 m) i jak czas pozwoli na kolejny czterotysięcznik - Polluxa (4092 m). Maciej i Radek mieli pomysł aby wejść na coś lekkiego np. na Castora (4228 m) , przespać się dla lepszej aklimatyzacji w najbliższym schronisku Quintino Sella (3587 m.n.p.m.) i wrócić w tempie wypoczynkowo-spacerowym do Randy następnego dnia. Zgodnie z założeniami nasze aklimatyzacyjne wejścia dokonaliśmy na 2 wytyczone 4 - tysięczniki prawie bez chwili przerwy (nawet nie było czasu na zjedzenie drugiego śniadania). Ale skończyłyby się to o mało co „ kiblem” na stacji kolejki. Na jej ostatni zjazd zdążyliśmy 3 min. przed odjazdem w dół. O mały włos a aklimatyzacja Marcina i moja trwałaby o noc dłużej i to w warunkach dość ubogich. -
Trip Factsheet: Monte Rosa Climber Zermatt Zermatt Is a Charming
Trip Factsheet: Monte Rosa Climber Zermatt Zermatt is a charming alpine village. It is car-free and reached only by a 15 minute train journey from the valley station of Tasch. As you would expect given its location it is one of Europe's main centres of Alpinism and is a bustling town in both winter and summer. The town is at 1,650m/5,420ft. Zermatt is in the German-speaking section of Switzerland. English (and French) are widely spoken. For further details on Zermatt click on the Zermatt Tourism website at www.zermatt.ch/en/ Monte Rosa (4,634m/15,203ft) Monte Rosa is the second highest mountain in the Alps and the highest mountain in Switzerland. The Monte Rosa is known in German as the Dufourspitze. It is in the Monte Rosa massif which is a range that lies on the border between Switzerland and Italy and is made up of several summits over 4500m, including Nordend, Zumsteinspitze, Signalkuppe and Ludwigshohe. Monte Rosa is located in the Pennine Alps (at 45°56′12.6″N, 7°52′01.4″E), 12kms east of Zermatt. It was first climbed in 1855. We usually ascend Monte Rosa over a 3 day period via the West ridge - the route is graded AD. The ascent begins from the Monte Rosa Hut which is accessed via the Gornergrat railway and a 2 hour trek. Summit day is a long, steady climb with 1800m of ascent to the highest point, called the Dufourspitze. There is a short grade 3 rock section and ice-slopes up to 40 degrees. -
Lithostratigraphy and U-Pb Zircon Dating in the Overturned Limb of the Siviez-Mischabel Nappe: a New Key for Middle Penninic Nappe Geometry
1661-8726/08/020431-22 Swiss J. Geosci. 101 (2008) 431–452 DOI 10.1007/s00015-008-1261-5 Birkhäuser Verlag, Basel, 2008 Lithostratigraphy and U-Pb zircon dating in the overturned limb of the Siviez-Mischabel nappe: a new key for Middle Penninic nappe geometry FLORIAN GENIER1, JEAN-LUC EPARD 1, FRANÇOIS BUSSY 2 & TOMAS MAGNA2 Key words: alps, Middle Penninic, Siviez-Mischabel nappe, Permo-Carboniferous, Randa orthogneiss, zircon typology, U-Pb geochronology ABSTRACT Detailed field work and zircon analysis have improved the knowledge of the This coherent overturned sequence can be observed from the St-Niklaus area to lithostratigraphy at the base of the Siviez-Mischabel nappe in the Mattertal the Moosalp pass to the north. Detailed mapping revealed that the St-Niklaus (St-Niklaus-Törbel area). They confirm the existence of an overturned limb syncline is symmetrical and connects the overturned limb of the Siviez-Mischa- and clarify the structure of the St-Niklaus syncline. The following formations bel nappe to the normal series of the Upper Stalden zone. U-Pb zircon geo- can be observed: chronology on magmatic and detrital zircons allowed constraining ages of these formations. Detrital zircons display ages ranging from 2900 ± 50 to 520 ± 4 Ma • Polymetamorphic gneisses; composed of paragneisses, amphibolites and in the Törbel Formation, and from 514 ± 6 to 292 ± 9 Ma in the Moosalp Forma- micaschists (Bielen Unit, pre-Ordovician). tion. In addition, the Permian Randa orthogneiss is intrusive into the polymeta- • Fine-grained, greyish quartzite and graywacke with kerogen-rich hori- morphic gneisses and into the Permo-Carboniferous metasediments of the zons (Törbel Formation, presumed Carboniferous). -
La Pierre À Bosson
Aiguille du Aiguille du Passon Chardonnet Aiguille Aiguille 3 383 m 3 824 m Aiguille d’ Aiguille du du Tour Bec Rouge Argentière Génepi Purtscheller 3 529 m Bec Rouge Supérieur 3 900 m 3 265 m 3 478 m Pointes Inférieur 3 050 m Aiguille 2 841 m Pointe des Grands du Pissoir Bec de de Bron 3 102 m 3 441 m l’Achat 2 954 m 2 447 m Glacier du Tour Tête du Grand Chantet Y 1 967 m E Glacier d’ UR Argentière LE Point ÉC de vue P DE m 6701 MONTAGNE LE TOUR Le Bisme Pierre à Bosson MONTROC Départ 1365 m LE PLANET Gare Gîte Paravalanche Le Moulin ancien hôtel LES FRASSERANDS ARGENTIÈRE Arrivée L’Arve 1 250 m Arrêts de bus sérac. chute de formidable la à terminale langue sa de d’Argentière, glacier du d’ablation zone de vuesurl’ensemblede la superbe point un gagne crochet un Sur leparcours, Argentière en passant par le Planet, alternant vieil habitat, forêt et pentes fleuries. à Montroc de conduira vous qui demi-journée d’une balade agréable C’est une traversée traversée ponctuée de blocs prend fin au sommet en amont par une série de lacets. Une ultime dominés parleslysMartagon. d’épilobes champ large : florales espèces aux belle part la épicéas laissent des couvert du libérées pentes Ces Argentière. vers descente de chemin du lecroisement avec coïncide dernier et leplusvaste des couloirs d’avalanche, redoutables Le en hiver. Bosson, la forêt est régulièrement coupée par ! àraconter deshistoires enaurait :il mélèze très vieux un adossé à banc le de s’asseoir sur delamontagnePéclerey. -
In Memoriam 115
IN MEMORIAM 115 • IN MEMORIAM CLAUDE WILSON 1860-1937 THE death of Claude Wilson within a few weeks of attaining his seventy-seventh birthday came as a terrible shock to his many friends. Few of us even knew that he was ill, but in the manner of his passing none can regret that there was no lingering illness. We can but quote his own words in Lord Conway's obituary: 'the best we can wish for those that we love is that they may be spared prolonged and hopeless ill health.' His brain remained clear up to the last twenty-four hours and he suffered no pain. The end occurred on October 31. With Claude Wilson's death an epoch of mountaineering comes to an end. He was of those who made guideless and Alpine history from Montenvers in the early 'nineties, of whom but Collie, Kesteven, Bradby, ~olly and Charles Pasteur still survive. That school, in which Mummery and Morse were perhaps the most prominent examples, was not composed of specialists. Its members had learnt their craft under the best Valais and Oberland guides; they were equally-proficient on rocks or on snow. It mattered little who was acting as leader in the ascent or last man in the descent. They were prepared to turn back if conditions or weather proved unfavourable. They took chances as all mountaineers are forced to do at times but no fatal accidents, no unfortunate incidents, marred that great page of Alpine history, a page not confined to Mont Blanc alone but distributed throughout the Western Alps. -
PARIS CHAMONIX Une Haute Route De La Valpelline
bulletin des Clubs alpins français d’Ile-de-France avril mai 2016 // numéro 235 // 5 euros Paris Chamonix alpinisme Une traversée à ciel ouvert Fontanella › Château des Dames randonnée pédestre Automne en Cévenne ardéchoise ski de montagne Une haute route de la Valpelline ISSN 1269-4339 www.clubalpin-idf.com Paris Chamonix//numéro 235//avril mai 2016 À gauche : les mains sur la tête pour symboliser le toit du monde:l’Himalaya ; Environnement à droite : requiem pour les glaciers andins. Le Caf à la COP21 in situ qui montre les dégâts que feront les conscience de l’impact très grave du chan- Plusieurs associations alpines se sont asso- 2° d’augmentation de température moyenne gement climatique en montagne. Quelques ciées sous l’égide de l’UIAA (Union interna- vers lesquels nous nous dirigeons. Tibétains et Andins qui avaient participé à tionale des associations d’alpinisme) dont Des photographies présentées sur le stand une manifestation silencieuse quelques jours la FFCAM est membre, pour représenter la ont permis de visualiser l’évolution récente plus tôt, se sont joints à nous. montagne, ses habitants et ses pratiquants des glaciers, leur fonte s’accompagnant L’accord de Paris a été signé par les repré- lors de la COP21. C’est ainsi que des béné- d’une augmentation des écroulements ro- sentants des 186 pays qui ont participé aux voles se sont relayés au Bourget sur notre cheux, d’un risque accru de glissements de discussions, stand situé dans l’« Espace Générations terrains et d’inondations dues aux ruptures Plusieurs rendez-vous auront lieu par la suite : climat ».