THE IRISH TIMES ASpecial Report Wednesday, July 6, 2011 SLIGO To cherish memories forever, you have to live them first. Experience world class surfing at Strandhill, or immerse yourself in the spectacular landscapes of Ben Bulben or the Ox Mountains. Horse riding, trekking, mountain biking, kite surfing, golfing or just lazily walking some of the most beautiful beaches in Ireland – in Sligo you’re free to do it all.
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Index
OUT OF THE BLUE You don’t always need a THAT’S ENTERTAINMENT The many 4 surfboard to catch awater buzz in Sligo 20 reasons to visit Sligo over the coming months SLIGO MAP WAVES OF PLEASURE Surf beaches worth 7 22 seeking out ALL IN GOOD TASTE Fine dining and fresh ON THE TOWN The very best of Sligo 82produce are abundant in Sligo town and county 4nightlife STAY AND PLAY Accommodation to suit all TEE TIME The county is home to some of the 11 tastes and pockets 28 best, most understated golf courses in Ireland FAMILY FUN From swooping raptors to ceramic SOUL FOOD Replenish body and soul 15 painting there are thrills for all the family 29 with seaweed baths and bracing walks POETIC LEGACY Sligo’s cultural highlights go BUY BUY BABY Go on aspending spree 18 well beyond the literary heritage of Yeats 30 in Sligo
An Irish Times Special Report in association with
FRONT COVER IMAGE: Benbulben from Streedagh beach SLIGO EDITOR: Madeleine Lyons PRODUCTION EDITOR: John Lane CONTACT: Special Reports Department, The Irish Times, Tara St, Dublin 2 TEL: 01-675 8000 E-MAIL: [email protected] ADVERTISING: 01-675 8585 E-MAIL: [email protected] Every care has been taken in the compilation of this magazine to ensure accuracy at the time of publication. The Irish Times cannot accept responsibility for omissions, or alterations occurring after the guide has been published. SLIGO ADVENTURE Hook, line, sinker
The wild waters of Sligo are second to none for those in search of adventure. Laurence Mackin dived in head first
E’RE MAKING schoolboy errors all over Daryl Ewing’s fishing boat and Wwe’ve barely left the harbour at Rosses Point. I’ve already speared the tip of my finger with afish hook and my fishing companion Ciaran Duggan has shown up dressed as the most changed, and soon the regular pull The revelatory red gurnard. unprepared fisherman in the world. on the rod is replaced by asharp Photographs: Laurence Mackin Thankfully, Ewing and the tug –coley fish, small and playful, experienced fishermen on board are but not much worth eating, are so distracted by his denim jacket soon clogging up the reels. Then we revelation on the fork). The pollock and flip flops they don’t notice my hit ashoal of mackerel, and up they are the best to try to catch, pulling ineptitude. come, three or four to aline, hard on the rod and bending it It’s afine day for it all the same, beautiful purple-green scales down with asolid, underwater and chugging out from Rosses glinting in the sun that, now and wrestle. There are few more Point it’s easy to see why so many again, emerges. satisfying feelings than landing a people use fishing as arefuge from We change location and Ewing fine glinting fish to the cheers of all the troubles of the mainland. advises us to drop the lines fast to your new mates. Seagulls bounce along optimistically get through the clouds of mackerel We change bait and tactics again, in our wake, the waves are and hunt the bigger game –pollock bouncing chunks of freshly cut slapping happily at the bottom of mostly, amuch more robust fish mackerel along the bottom of the Ewing’s Sea Star,and the banter on and acres more fun on the line. At sea slowly, trying to tempt abottom deck is cheerful –itseems only the the prime spots at the back of the feeder, with ray at the top of the fish have anything to be worried boat that the other fishermen are most-wanted list. about. kind enough to give up to us “If you feel apull, leave it alone And worry they should, because novices, we’re making amerry for 30 seconds or so, then bring it in what we lack in preparation and blood bath, and soon the catch steady,” advises Ewing. Aray’s ability we more than make up for in bucket is filling up with reams of mouth is underneath its large, flat bolts of beginners’ luck. After afew mackerel, afine brace of pollock, a body and it will bite on the bait, but unsuccessful stops, Ewing putters dogfish and the odd gurnard the trick is in giving it time to get up the boat to afresh spot, bait is (which, it turns out later, is a on top of what it thinks is an easy
4 | THE IRISH TIMES Sligo |July 6, 2011 SLIGO ADVENTURE
fishing trips aboard the Sea Star. Full- or half-day and evening trips are available, with all gear provided. The catch-and-cook option is not to be missed. ■ Tel: 086-891 3618, sligoboatcharters.com
TRANDHILL IS WELL known for its surfing, and if you are Sgoing to hit the waves, then make sure to get afew pointers from the appropriately named Perfect Day surf school. Owners Tom and Simone Hickey have been running the school since 1998. Their surfing coaches, led by daughter Elisha, are charged with enthusiasm for all sports waterborne. Our instructor does his best not to laugh at my pathetic attempts to stay on top of some admittedly difficult surf (the waves are too small to compensate for my lack of balance, and crumble into white water after afew seconds) and full of advice as to what I’m doing wrong –not to mention strongly encouraging during the few seconds when something inexplicably goes right. After the challenges of the open sea, though, we’re after amore serene experience, and this is where Tom and Simone’s latest offering comes in. Stand-up paddle boarding (SUP) is arelatively new phenomenon in this part of the world and is adifferent challenge from surfing, although it is still a terrific workout –big-wave pioneer Laird Hamilton is messianic in his meal before reeling it in. head to Austies restaurant, where devotion to it. Twenty minutes –and another staff whisk the bulging bags of fresh We drive beyond Sligo town to shot of luck across the bows –later catch off to the kitchen and prepare Doorley park and pontoon, where and two ray are ready for hanging afeast fit for afleet of fishermen we unload four large SUP boards. for aday or two so they are ready kings, while we sup creamy, dreamy Tom and Simone talk us through for cooking and eating. pints of Guinness and take in the the stance, feet beside each other It’s adecent day’s haul, and after view. We’d have asked the crew to and fairly far apart, knees bent and stopping off for afew barely earned join us but there’s no point –not back straight. In minutes we’re pints in the beautiful Beach Bar in one of the hardy fisherman standing alittle shakily Aughris Head (see pages 24-26) has any interest in eating on the water. With and the cosy pub on Coney Island what they catch (it’s Trá Bán in Strandhill paddles in hand, (there’s only one, see page 23)we clear we’re not the cooks one of the best we move into head for port. En route, Eoin only ones making the wind, McLoughlin and Peter Callaghan schoolboy errors post-surf meals in the west. pushing gut the fish cleanly and precisely, when the plates of Impeccable service and awell-priced ourselves despite the rolling sea, spits and delicious fish winelist complement unfussy food along with squalls. Ewing’s most regular arrive, including with top-drawer ingredients. Starters slow, solid passenger, alarge seagull, George, that revelatory strokes. takes up his post on the trawler’s gurnard). of mussels set us up nicely for the This cabin roof. Most seagulls follow a Daryl Ewing, steak with ahalf tail of lobster that couldn’t be boat in the hope of getting afew fisherman, skipper, barely left room for pints downstairs further from easy morsels, but George is an quantity surveyor, in the Strand bar. 071-912 8402, the hustle of altogether more regal character web designer and trabansligo.ie surfing. There’s and demands to be hand-fed. all-round top bloke, time to appreciate Once back at Rosses Point, we organises sightseeing and the scenery as we
THE IRISH TIMES Sligo |July 6, 2011 | 5 SLIGO ADVENTURE
The Garavogue river makes its way into Sligo town cruise down the Garavogue river Armstrong walks us through the straight line, using landmarks and and into Sligo town. Once you hit various manoeuvres we will be the sails’ string guides as pointers. your rhythm of paddle and stroke, practising on the water. Once we’re As we head for shore, hands tired it’s ablissful experience. When we wet-suited and lifejacketed up, we from holding ropes, minds drained turn around, and the brisk wind is push the boat out and climb aboard, from studying the horizon, the at our backs, the effort needed is taking positions to keep the weight Fireballsare swirling around one halved. It’s abreeze to chat while evenly distributed. another in afrenzy of sails and using our bodies as sails in the From the shore it may look slow, shouts. Sailing may not have the occasional big gust, letting the but on the water the boat feels like cutting-edge cool of kitesurfing, but current wind us slowly down river. it’s rattling along at aspeedy rate of it’s got enough thrills and spills to As strange as it seems to be knots. Keeping the various sails in keep the heart pumping and the standing straight up on aboard and trim is harder than it looks and adrenaline running high. moving on water, it feels natural. when the boat rears almost on to its ■ LSD Kiteboarding, Rosses Point. Expect SUP to win converts at a side, we have to lean over the other tel: 086-805 1390, lsdkiteboarding.com rapid rate. side, feet held in stirrups, to prevent ■ Perfect Day Surfing, Strandhill. tel: the whole thing capsizing. It’s all STAYING IN 087-202 9399, perfectdaysurfing.com brilliant, energetic fun, never more so than when we get to turn ahand STRANDHILL HE ORIGINAL PLAN was to to tilling. Experienced sailors make We stayed in the Strandhill Lodge have agoatkitesurfing. But as this look effortless, but Ifind it and Suites, four-star accommodation. Twith all watersports, especially difficult to even hold aconversation Rooms are large and very comfortable, given Irish conditions, there needs while keeping the surprisingly with beautiful views. The breakfast is to be aback-up plan, and when the sensitive boat travelling in avaguely winds fail to live up to our continental (a fry will only weigh you expectations, we opt to try sailing. down on the water anyway) and served I’d be lying if Isaid Iwasn’t Fireballs in Sligo bay until alanguid 10.30am. Rooms from slightly relieved. Kitesurfing is one Photograph: Joe St Leger ¤99 –good value for top-quality of the tougher sports to try. Generally, those who want to learn accommodation. commit to aset of lessons to get over the steep learning curve. Sailing, though, can be enjoyed from the off. LSD Kiteboarding, run by Eamon and Peter Armstrong, based in Rosses Point, offers both options. We meet Eamon on the slipway of the Sligo Yacht Club as aFireball competition heads out into the water –this is not atest of the gods, but asmall, light class of boat with a crew of two that will rip through the water and turn through 180 degrees in aheartbeat. Our boat is alarger, more basic (and more stable) version and
6|THE IRISH TIMES Sligo |July 6, 2011 Co SLIGO MAP
SLIGO ROADS N15 To Donegal
N16 To Enniskillen R291
R278 R292
R292 N59 N4 R287 To Enniscrone R284 Ballina
N17 R284 To Tobercurry N4 Knock Airport To Boyle Galway Dublin
SLIGO
Map courtesy of Ordnance Survey Ireland
THE IRISH TIMES Sligo |July 6, 2011 | 7 SLIGO DINING Chow down!
Aoife Carrigy discovers the tastiest ways to forage your way around Sligo town and county, whatever the budget, occasion or appetite
Shells Cafe emphasises good local food
EATING EN MASSE two, expect delicious home-baking it as good achoice for chowder, For aweekend of action or a in the afternoons, hearty lunches buffalo wings or steak as it is for staycation with the kids, Sligo has and adinner menu that lists local zuppa di pesce, quesadillas or lots of good options for chowing suppliers. Bluebell Falls goats’ cheese. down with agang. Coach Lane Restaurant @ Trá Bán Restaurant, Strandhill, Co Hargadons, O’Connell Street, Sligo, Donaghy’s Bar, Lord Edward Sligo, 071-9128402, trabansligo.ie 071-9153709, hargadons.com Street, Sligo, 071-9162417, With views beyond the white Local chef Joe Grogan is busy coachlane.ie strands below out to Inishmurray instilling new life into this beloved Chef Andy Donaghy combines island, this award-winning local institution. Besides agreat tradition with innovation in this family-friendly restaurant above the pint and the chance of atune or award-winning restaurant, making Strand Bar has awide menu
8 | THE IRISH TIMES Sligo |June 9, 2011 DINING SLIGO
LIGO MAY NOT (yet) be another string to the bow of as well known for its business partners Joe Sabundance of local food Grogan and Ray and Eileen producers as other pretty Monahan. pockets of rural Ireland, but Flexibility is key to the the team at Source are keen Source experience, where to change that. hungry punters can choose Sligo town’s new landmark from stocking up, casual food emporium takes in a grazing or the full monty of a restaurant, deli, wine bar and sit-down meal. cookery school over its This is reflected in the three-floor sprawl, and each range of cookery courses, element is playing its own which include the fun Friday part in helping to encourage, Night Wine; Dine and Demo promote and shape athriving offerings as well as some local food culture. hands-on classes such as the The kitchen’s menu strives Catch &Cook experience to be as local as possible, which will test your fishing showcasing the best skills as well as stretch your producers alongside fresh cooking repertoire. produce plucked from their Source even takes its own polytunnels. On the broad offering off-site, with a top-floor in the cookery regular stall and school, with its views of demonstrations at the local Benbulben, long-established farmers' market. local chef Eithna O’Sullivan Ambitious it may be, but strives to integrate into her judging from the calibre of broad range of classes the this team's individual local produce featured in the AFUTURE INSTITUTION reputations as well as the growing deli section depth of their combined downstairs. She also has high hopes their culinary dreams. And even experience, Source is equipped to that some of the more much of the wine served in the weather these hard times. industry-focused courses will help middle-floor wine bar has astrong to give budding artisan producers Sligo connection, being coaxed from ■ Source, John St, Sligo, the skills and confidence to follow the grapes of Terramonti vineyard, 071-9147605, sourcesligo.ie ranging from local seafood to Conrad’s Kitchen, Rockwood traditional steaks, served with a Parade, Sligo, 071-9119400, twist by Ducasse-trained head chef, conradskitchen.com Julian Regneres. Donegal-born Conrad Gallagher needs little introduction, so loudly Davis’s Restaurant @The Yeats does his reputation precede him. Tavern, Drumcliff, Co Sligo, His cooking tends to be as solidly 071-9163117, skilful as his story is colourful, and yeatstavernrestaurant.com Whether you’re after aquick bite after visiting Yeats’s grave or walking Benbulben, for aSunday roast or atake-away pizza, this long-established family pub serves up so much more than bar food.
Try also: Shells (p10), The Waterfront (p10), Osta Cafe &Wine Bar (p10), Lyons Cafe (p10) DINING ADEUX While its long strands and wooded lakelands are perfect for romantic breaks, Sligo also boasts great shopping, making it an equally good base for agirls’ catch-up –and it has several special fine-dining experiences to spoil yourself with.
THE IRISH TIMES SLIGO |June 9, 2011 | 9 SLIGO DINING the recent relocation suggests Conrad’s Kitchen will continue to call Sligo home. Local produce
Coopershill House, Riverstown, Co ■ Lindy O’Hara’s Coopershill Ann Donovan Sligo, 071-9165108, coopershill.com venison (smoked and fresh in ■ Woodville Farm’s free range Though the four-course dinner and season) eggs. Collect by hand on the open afternoon tea are available to non- ■ Charlie Kelly’s Lisadell clams, farm. 071-9162741 to book. residents, you’ll want to stay in this mussels and oysters stunning Blue Book country house ■ Colm O’Donnell’s Ox mountain ...and where to find them: hotel, not least so you can wander lamb ■ Origin Farmers’ Market,Sligo in the vegetable gardens from ■ Betty and Frank Melvin’s IT Sports Field Car Park,Saturdays which much of the menu is sourced. Carraig Fhada seaweeds from 9am-1pm Don’t miss their award-winning Easkey. See Sligo native Prannie ■ Source,John St, sourcesligo.ie venison when in season. Rhatigan’s superb ‘Irish Seaweed ■ Kate’s Kitchen,Castle St, Kitchen’cookbook for inspiration. kateskitchen.ie Bella Vista, Strandhill, Co Sligo, ■ Gary Stafford’s The Hungry ■ Cafe Fleur,O’Connell St, 071-9122222,bellavista.ie Rock savoury preserves cafefleur.ie Located beside the sea in the scenic ■ Local butcher Keith Clarke’s ■ Gourmet Parlour,Bridge St, surfing village of Strandhill, Bella Knocknarea honey gourmetparlour.com Vista Bar &Bistro has areputation ■ Ballisodare Free Range Eggs for good food and value. The newly opened Waves@Bella Vista restaurant offers something for Strandhill, having met surfside in everyone from 10am-10pm daily, Cornwall. There’s an emphasis on including breakfast, lunch, pizzas, affordable local dishes with areal pastas, Early Bird Menu and akids sense of personality, and fun events menu. to keep the crowds flocking here.
Moira’s Restaurant, Cromleach Lyons Cafe, Quay Street, Sligo, Lodge Hotel, Castlebaldwin, Co 071-9142969, garystafford.com Sligo, 071-9165155, cromleach.com Gary Stafford’s in-store cafe opened Expect serious attention to detail at in 1923 in what was already then Moira Tighe’s critically-acclaimed the long-serving Lyons Department restaurant, open to non-residents, Store. People go for the traditional as is Nuada’s Bar. Stay over so you baking and fresh salad bar –and can work up an appetite in this imagine it being anywhere else and come back for exotic specials such tranquil walking country, or simply sometimes places are as chicken with citrus and sumak. indulge at the in-house Ciúnas Spa. quintessentially local thanks to Their new venture, Slice at the painstaking sourcing. Either way, Model offers similar fare as well as Try also: Sligo has plenty of places to truly Sunday brunch. Trá Bán Restaurant (p8); Osta Cafe call its own. &Wine Bar (below); Source (p9) Osta Cafe &Wine Bar, Garavogue Shells Cafe, Strandhill, Co Sligo, Weir View, Sligo, 071-9144639, 071-9122938, shellscafe.com osta.ie SLIGO ON APLATE Keen surfers Myles and Jane From the new 30-mile (48km) Sometimes aplace is asuch alocal Lamberth set up their dream of a breakfast (all sourced within a institution, you simply couldn’t seaside bakery and cafe in 30-mile radius) right through to the oft-foraged-for specials and daily tapas menu, slow food enthusiast and dedicated supporter of local producers, Brid Torrades’ food is always infused with asense of place.
The Waterfront, Rosses Point, Co Sligo, 071-9177122, waterfrontrestaurant.ie Under new management, the views of Sligo Bay haven’t changed in this mecca of waterside dining, and nor has its emphasis on great local seafood, now under the steerage of head chef Brian Fox.
Try also: Coopershill (p9); Source (p9) Top: Andrew Donaghy of Coach Lane. Above: Coopershill House
10 | THE IRISH TIMES Sligo|July 6, 2011 ACCOMMODATION SLIGO
Cromleach Lodge Rooms with the views From secret, salmon-stocked waterfalls and legendary landmarks to some of the best mountain views in the country, Sligo has accommodation options to suit all tastes, writes Alanna Gallagher
THE USUAL SUSPECTS radiance treatment, which includes visible from the second and 16th Tonic for the soul afull body massage, back scrub and holes of its Darren Clarke-designed The Radisson offers the right mini-facial, is an 85-minute golf course. Fans include Westlife’s balance of hospitality and indulgence that costs ¤99. Mark Feehily and Shane Filan. pampering. It’s Friday night ■ Radisson Blu Hotel and Spa, Rosses Walled garden suites cost from summer barbecue on the terrace is Point, Ballincar. 071-9140008, ¤139pps for two nights B&B and alocal favourite and helps visitors radissonblu.ie/hotel-sligo one dinner, while the old house can kickstart the weekend. Two nights sleep up to eight and is ideal for a B&B and one evening meal costs Great golf and spa small group or wedding party. The from ¤139pps. Under 16s stay free If you prefer amore rural setting to Elemis spa offers pampering. but pay for meals. Escape the family relax in, Castle Dargan Golf Hotel ■ Castle Dargan Golf Hotel and for acouple of hours to the Solas and Wellness is anew-build resort Wellness, Ballygawley. 071-9118080, Wellness spa, where an Espa skin framed by castle ruins that are castledargan.com THE IRISH TIMES Sligo |July 6, 2011 | 11 Clockwise from left: Strandhill Lodge and Suites; Temple House; Clarion Hotel
Family fun house party rate of two nights B&B, itself. It overlooks Lough Arrow The Sligo Park Hotel and Leisure with dinner, Sunday lunch and and has atable dolmen to its rear, Club is afamily-friendly afternoon tea is ¤245 and requires one of the many places Diarmuid establishment that offers 137 rooms aminimum of 12 people. and Gráinne are reputed to have with rates from ¤79pps. The real ■ Coopershill, Riverstown. bedded down for the night. The value is in its two nights B&B and 071-9165108, coopershill.com dolmen walk is just one of many in one dinner package, which costs the local area where you can get up from ¤149 pps. Ask for aroom Foodie find close and personal with Sligo’s facing the garden. There are film Cromleach Lodge is adestination in archaeological heritage. nights for kids with popcorn until 9pm nightly, agreat leisure centre, which includes water activities for sixth-floor children on rainy days, and music in accommodation offering the bar. Cityslicker outside balconies from ■ Sligo Park Hotel and Leisure Club, which you can enjoy Pearse Road. 071-9190400, central Sligo’s landmark sligoparkhotel.com mountain views. The Glasshouse is GET AWAY FROM IT ALL especially popular with Country house chic weekenders and night Coopershill is acountry house B&B owls. Explore the town’s run by Simon O’Hara and traditional bars; Ballymaloe-trained chef Christine Hargadons is aVictorian McCauley. The family silver still interior gastro pub with adorns the dining table for dinner character and cheap and breakfast. In season their fallow eats. The hotel has deer provide them with smoked HE GLASSHOUSE is a underground parking. Rooms are venison and steaks, while the contemporary hotel situated in from ¤79 room only mid-week and vegetable patch supplies all their TSligo town’s centre. Built on the ¤109 room only on weekends. B&B potatoes, leeks, broccoli and banks of the Garavogue river, the and one dinner costs from ¤179 pps. tomatoes. The house has eight decor is boutique hotel meets zany rooms, seven of which are en suite. primary colours. The rooms are big ■ The Glasshouse, Swan Point. Two nights B&B and one dinner and spacious, with some of the 071-9194301, theglasshouse.ie costs ¤239pps on weekends. A
12 | THE IRISH TIMES Sligo | July 6, 2011 SLIGO ACCOMMODATION
house has an old-world feel, with wonderful interior flourishes, such as Italianate coving and cornicing, decorative marble fireplaces and original furniture. It may be aristocratically shabby but it oozes authenticity. There are six rooms, some of which can interconnect to create family suites. The house is also available to book for house and shooting parties. B&B costs from ¤75 pps. For two nights with one dinner served at acommunal dining table surrounded by Perceval family portraits, it costs about ¤95pp. ■ Temple House, Ballymote. 071-9183329, templehouse.ie
Island life Get away from it all with a self-catering stay on Coney Island. Inish Mulclohy Lodge is a two-bedroom converted barn that can sleep up to six. Situated five minutes from the beach, it costs ¤550 per week in high season and there is still summer availability for the weeks beginning July 9th and August 13th. Drive on to the island at low tide only and install HIDDEN The food is fantastic. Chef proprietor Moira Tighe is GEM self-taught and has afeel for flavour THE GLEN, near Strandhill that will make you want to extend your stay. The establishment offers HE GLEN IS alittle local secret explanations for this natural suite accommodation with B&B worth seeking out in the lee of wonder. It’s in aplace where from ¤60pps. Two nights B&B in a TKnocknarea. To find it, drive Knocknarea falls out of the sky superior room and one dinner costs out of Strandhill, and heads towards from ¤175pps. along the Top the sea. Anatural ■ Cromleach Lodge Country House Road towards event, perhaps an and Ciunas Spa, Lough Arrow, Culleenduff. After earthquake, has Castlebaldwin. 071-9165155, you pass the most gouged adeep cromleach.com perfectly set grassy channel tumble-down out of the rock, Seaside suite cottage (now on and over the past The Strandhill Lodge and Suites the market, and centuries, huge offer balcony views of the Atlantic hands off, trees have grown rollers and achance to inhale the because Isaw it up its centre. bracing fresh air without leaving first), keep an eye When you walk your room. Rooms cost from ¤99 out on the left for into the gorge, the per night for bed and continental the Glen Road, sound drops away breakfast. One-bedroom suites, which rises and everything which can sleep up to four with two sharply. Take this becomes still and on the sofa bed in the living room, road and watch hushed. Water cost from ¤119 per night. the right for a trickles down its ■ Strandhill Lodge and Suites. path that pops walls, and the 071-9122122, down into agreen green, cathedral- strandhilllodgeandsuites.com tunnel (there’s also asmall well on like space feels cut off from any your left). This is where you go sense of time. This is alittle piece OUT OF THE ORDINARY down the rabbit hole and follow of magic in the Sligo hinterland, Rock of ages the muddy trail that bring you into and all the better for being that Temple House is a1,000-acre the Glen. little bit tricky to find. country pile that has been in the There are no signposts and no Laurence Mackin Perceval name since 1665. The
THE IRISH TIMES Sligo |July 6, 2011 | 13 SLIGO ACCOMMODATION The informed budget option
EASHORE HOUSE is a traditional B&B operated by SAnn Campbell and is situated at the edge of Ballysadare Bay, a salt marsh and special area of conservation that boasts views of Knocknarea, reputed to be home to Queen Maeve’s tomb. Guests come for the views and stay for the hospitality. Surrounded by fields, the sitting room has an adjoining conservatory where guests take breakfast and turns on the telescope to see the other residents of the area; duck, swans, and even salmon can be seen resting in the shallow waters, with their tails poking up through the water indicating their repose. Amorning walk Coopershill in along the bank, araised stone Riverstown wall built in the 19th century, will whet your appetite for yourself in the Pub, the breakfast. only hostelry on the island. Ask Ann to show you ■ Inish Mulclohy Lodge, Coney Island. Ballysadare Fishing Club, a Tel: 047-88788 or contact Eileen secret setting hidden from view Ferguson via nealgreig.com where the falls offer the spectacular sight of salmon Big house life leaping to get to their spawning Primrose Grange House is a grounds. Daily fishing fees cost country house owned by the ¤100 and rods can be purchased O’Donoghue-Symmons family. In from the club. For further one of the wings is aself-contained, information call Dermot Gleeson self-catering property with its own on 086-2515064. entrance. Located in Knocknarea, Ann has four en-suite rooms the two-bedroom property can Cheap sleep as well as aself-catering family sleep up to seven. The bedrooms The Best Western Sligo Southern room. Rooms cost from ¤35 B&B have sea views and include a Hotel and Leisure Centre is awell pps. All have wifi. welcome pack of soda bread, located and well-priced option that ■ Seashore House B&B. milk, butter and free-range eggs is especially good for families on a 071-9167827, from the house’s chickens. A budget. Two nights B&B plus one seashoreguests.com minimum two-night stay costs dinner costs from ¤99 pps. Three from ¤250. The weekly rate is nights B&B for two adults and two ¤700. children under 12 costs ¤299 and is ■ Grange House, Knocknarea, available until August. Strandhill. 087-2641979, ■ Best WesternSligo Southern Hotel Lough Gill and Yeats Tour luxuryselfcateringsligo.com andLeisure Centre, Pearse Road. Take in the sights of 071-9162101, sligosouthernhotel.com Yeats’ Grave, Glencar Waterfall, LIVEN UP Buzzy and booming Shoestring stay Parkes Castle then view the The Clarion is one of Sligo’s busiest The Harbour House Hostel offers Lake Isle of Innisfree on board the hotels, which is unsurprising given clean and simple accommodation Rose of Innisfree tour boat, run by that its room rates start from ¤59. from ¤25pps in its double rooms. George McGoldrick. Mon-Sat from It offers boom-era décor, great This includes acontinental Sligo Tourist Office at 10.15am and value bar food, and abuzz even breakfast. The communal lounge midweek. has awarm open hearth. Markievicz Road at 10.30am. ■ Clarion Hotel Sligo, Clarion Road. ■ Harbour House Hostel, Finisklin Returns to town at 2.30pm. Tour: 071-9119000, clarionhotelsligo.com Road, Sligo, Co Sligo. 086-2598293, ¤30 roseofinnisfree.com harbourhousehostel.com
14 | THE IRISH TIMES Sligo |July 6, 2011 FAMILY DAYS SLIGO Flights of family
Fearless children will be thrilled by the fancy raptors and wildlife, while those of amore calm disposition will dig pottery classes, and there’s always the endless dunes to roll around in, writes Frank McNally FYOU find yourself anywhere near Sligo city this summer, with children to entertain, do As the name and its subtitle, the most relaxed creatures you’ll see: Iyourselves afavour and take a Irish Raptor Research Centre, from the peacocks sun-bathing on short detour to the suggest, Eagles Flying is both a the roof of ajeep, to the curious countryside at bird show and an educational bronze turkey who comes up and Portinch, near facility. But birds are only the half looks you straight in the eye, to the Ballymote, of it. Run by German scientist pet ferrets, one of which was so home to a Lothar Muschketat, it also hosts a laid-back that, stretching itself on place called wonderful menagerie of animals, top of awooden fence while having Eagles mostly wild and in many cases its belly tickled, it fell off. Flying. rescued from unhappier fates. The inmates of Muschketat’s pet That they are now in good hands zoo range in size from aboxful of is clear from their mice –always abig draw with demeanour. These are kids –toanenormous black some of the pot-bellied pig. But my own happiest and favourite was afemale raccoon called Grizzly whose party trick is to retrieve nuts and other food that Muschketat puts in your pocket. Like askilled revenue official, Grizzly will then empty those pockets, now matter how tight or deep. And suffice to say that being patted down by afemale raccoon is not something you experience every day of the week.
Abald eagle at Eagles Flying in Ballymoate, Co Sligo. Photograph: James Connolly/PicSell8
THE IRISH TIMES Sligo |July 6, 2011 | 15 SLIGO FAMILY DAYS
The main act at Eagles Flying, however, are the raptors: a collection of which includes Himalyan vultures, eagle owls, and asomewhat tragic buzzard that was rescued –probably after being hit by acar while eating road kill –and now suffers occasional seizures, triggered by such things as seeing a mouse. These are not pets, as the birds remind you by chomping their way through their favourite snacks: fluffy day-old chicks. Even so, you can get very close to them and they to you. During the twice-daily shows (11am and 3pm), aswooping saker falcon may zoom past your ear close enough to flick you with a feather-tip, or, if you volunteer, a harris hawk will perch on your outstretched arm, making short work of the chicken leg you’re holding between nervous thumb and forefinger. The good news is that you can trust the birds implicitly. These are flying machines of awe-inspiring speed and accuracy –they don’t make mistakes. Back in Sligo, and by complete contrast except in its ability to amuse children for aprecious hour or two, is alittle place called Hullabaloo. On John FKennedy Parade, along the river bank, it’s a pottery studio where the basic shapes –mugs, plates, had McCarrick, alocal school Above, Eva Craig with abarn owl motorbike-shaped ceramic teacher, whose commentary was as from Eagles Flying. Photographs: piggy-banks –are pre-supplied. entertaining as it was educational. James Connolly/PicSell8 All you and the kids have to do Stops include the William Butler Below, Classiebawn Castle, now is paint them. The studio Yeats statue on Stephen’s Mullaghmore with Benbulben in provides the equipment along with Street –solocated because, when the background. any artistic guidance you need. The accepting his Nobel prize, the poet pieces are then glazed and fired in a claimed that Stockholm’s Royal kiln on site, before being posted or Palace reminded him of the Ulster held on site for collection. Bank in Sligo, in front of which the Entertaining female children is statue now stands –and the sign clearly aspeciality. The day we were there, an all-girl party of 10 was silently at work, utterly absorbed; the merchandise might be abit fragile for amore boisterous clientele. That said, our clutch of two boys and agirl made it through the session without incident. And there is a design-your-own teddy bear facility, too. Highly recommended in Sligo –and free –isadaily walking tour of the city. It leaves from the tourist office on Temple Street, conducted on alternate mornings during the summer by Art McCarrick and Eimear Scott. We
16 | THE IRISH TIMES Sligo |July 6, 2011 The product of ahard day’s craft at Hullabaloo
of Sligo’s free attractions, are the Sligo town at 11am, Mon-Sat. towering sand dunes of Strandhill. 071-9161201. Tour also includes Sligo This is agreat place for mother to Abbey, built in 1252. Guided tours daily. amuse the children while father plays golf on the links course. Or, as ■ Eagles Flying is at Portinch, Bally- in our case, for daddy to mind the mote, and opens at 10.30am-12.30pm kids while mammy gets herself and 2.30pm-4.30pm, with bird shows wrapped at Voya Seaweed Baths, at 11am and 3pm. 071-9189310, from which she emerges an hour eaglesflying.com later, her verdict –and the rest of her –glowing: “That was fan-tastic!” ■ Hullabaloo pottery and painting studio is open seven days aweek MAKE IT HAPPEN during school holidays and until 8pm ■ Sligo walking tours leave from the on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday Fáilte Ireland office on Temple Street, nights. 071-9147528, hullabaloo.ie HIDDEN HAZELWOOD Forest GEM HE Hazelwood forest recreation 3km forest path TArea offers an unfussy, family is level and rated multi-access outside what must be the world’s friendly walk in amature forest and is also acleverly informative best-named law firm: Argue & setting nature trail. Phibbs. The firm is long gone along the Numbered (replaced by another legal northwest upright posts practice), but the sign has rightly shore of conceal acquired the status of heritage. Lough Gill. swinging If you’re so minded, then, Arriving, arms loaded surrounded as it is by mountains, you’ll with Sligo has plenty of opportunities for notice a information. more vigorous exercise. Not, line of Stop No 2, perhaps, on Ben Bulben, the rowboats for instance, dramatic backdrop for Drumcliffe tied up indicates a Churchyard and Yeats’s grave, under the bird table which is too steep and dangerous trees at and names for casual climbers and is probably Annagh the species best enjoyed as scenery. Bay: you might But on the other side of town is the original see, while Knocknarea, another place other table-mountain of sorts, which is name numbered easier to climb –you can be up and before the signs refer to down in an hour –and it has the demesne the specimen added attraction of Queen Maeve’s became Yew and reputed burial place on top: ahuge the seat of Douglas Fir stone cairn, still unexcavated, in the Wynne family. The parking spot trees, the limestone folly and the which the dead queen is said to has picnic benches and looks out Crannog standing off shore against have been planted standing up, onto ahalf-moon bay where afew the hill of the two birds, Slieve facing her ancient enemies from crusts of bread will bring afleet of Daene. Ulster. ducks and swans gliding in. The Brian Leyden Not far from there, and another
THE IRISH TIMES Sligo |July 6, 2011 | 17 SLIGO HERITAGE and ARTS
Michael Budd at the Sligo Folk Park. Below: Knocknarea Free spirits of Sligo
Brian Leyden describes athriving arts culture in which the literary heritage of William Butler Yeats finds itself in good company
SJAMES JOYCE is to the great windows of Lissadell with the county, but there is much Dublin, William Butler House, to the curt “cast acold eye” more to Sligo than the imaginative Yeats is to Sligo. His pronouncement on the limestone colouring it takes from the visions Asensibility and turn of tablet marking the poet’s final of adead poet. phrase profoundly influence how resting place in the churchyard at Living writers here such as we see the place, from the Drumcliffe. It is aprivilege and an Leland Bardwell, Eoin McNamee, landmark “bare Ben Bulben’s enrichment to have the poet’s Kevin Barry, Dermot Healy, head”, to “the light of evening” on legacy informing every encounter Declan Burke and Mary Branley wouldn’t necessarily privilege Yeats in their own dialogue between creative imagination and place. And the Leonard Cohen concerts last summer, that brought Westlife back to riff and play for their hometown, prompted arethink about how Sligo is seen by the wider world. Inspired too by the hosting of the World Rally Championship in 2009, the once dreamily romantic branding of Sligo as “the land of heart’s desire” is making way for the rebooted, distinctly more up-and-at-it vision of Sligo as a place to “set your spirit free”. This encouragement to direct and savour your own experience of
18 | THE IRISH TIMES Sligo |July 6, 2011 HERITAGE and ARTS SLIGO
Raincoat Theatre Company,based in the Factory Performance Space at Quay Street, is celebrating its 20th birthday this year by completing a trilogy of stage adaptations of Flann OBrien’s The Third Policeman and At Swim-Two-Birds with The Poor Mouth this autumn, in the lead-in to the major music festival Sligo Live on the October bank holiday weekend. On Temple Street, the Hawk’s Well Theatre brings the best in touring shows to Sligo, famously supports Sligo’s amateur drama and panto traditions, and this summer hosts the 52nd Yeats International Summer School. If you can be lured away from the town and its surrounds, the Coleman Centre in Gurteen Above: Dervish. Below: Queen Maeve’s tomb atop Knocknarea preserves and celebrates the work and life of musician Michael the place is especially right for Shinnors, Camille Souter, Patti Coleman, whose early recordings, Sligo, when you consider that less Smith, Dermot Seymour and imported from the United States, than 15 minutes from the town Dermot Delargy. Although, if did so much to reinvigorate Sligo’s centre, you can be hiking up a gallery-going is not your thing, they colossal traditional music mountainside towards the warrior have adedicated arthouse and inheritance, embodied today by queen Maeve’s tomb magisterially world cinema, and host regular Dervish and crossover groups such cresting Knocknarea;or current, contemporary and as No Crows and The Unwanted. marvelling at the ruins at traditional music gigs as well as An interest in early traditions Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery producing the annual Sligo New and country life will bring you to which predates the Pyramids; or Music Festival. the Sligo Folk Park in Riverstown, walking round Lough Gill’s An alternative marriage of arts and its permanent collection of half-moon bay under the native and entrepreneurship is the new hand tools and antique machinery – broadwood leaf canopy at Hamilton Gallery,located on the and this is the place where, on its Hazelwood;orsaying aprayer and first floor of No 4Castle Street, a annual heritage day, Ispotted apair lighting acandle at the holy well at listed Victorian building in the of farmers with their eyes riveted to Tobernalt.Alternatively, you may heart of Sligo. The gallery mounts asweetly running antique diesel have your nose pressed to acopy of monthly solo exhibitions by such engine, sharing the rapt absorption Yeats’s 1923 Nobel Prize winning luminaries as Barrie Cooke and of art lovers before amasterpiece medal on display in the Sligo Jane O’Malley, and promotes on agallery wall. museum,orcontemplate akey Sligo-based talents such as Cormac Because here in Sligo, it’s the work by the poet’s brother, Jack B, O’Leary and Michael Wann. And if thought that creates the experience in the municipal Niland collection, you can’t afford the work on the that sets your spirit free. now in the safe keeping of Sligo’s walls there is an extensive flagship arts centre, the Model. collection of fine art limited edition ■ Brian Leyden recently edited The Model, of course, will have prints and sculpture by Irish artists volume II of Sligo County Libraries’ alternative designs on your for sale. online literary journal ‘The Cathach’, attention, boasting ahugely If it’s still food for thought you’re and is the author of ‘The Home Place’ expanded gallery circuit, acoffee after, the Blue dock, asuite of artists’ studios on the top floor and abookshop where the back catalogue of previous shows includes Dorothy Cross, Seán McSweeney, John
THE IRISH TIMES Sligo |July 6, 2011 |19 SLIGO FESTIVALS
Cultural quarter
This year’s two-week session is LUNASA Sligo’s vibrant packed with poetic wit and wisdom. August, Model.ie There are lectures, seminars, poetry The Model is holding acelebration cultural and musical readings and workshops. Among of the arts called Lunasa, with a those involved are Peter McDonald programme of music, film, comedy, tradition is celebrated from Oxford, Marjorie Howes from visual arts and outreach activities. Boston College, Charles Armstrong The Gloaming, asupergroup of in apacked season of from the University of Bergen, Ann traditional musicians, will be Saddlemyer from the University of holding court, while the visual arts concerts, workshops Toronto, Mitsuko Ohno from Aichi programme features the work of Shukutoku University, and Fintan cutting-edge film-maker Harun and summer schools O’Toole of The Irish Times. Farocki. Aseason of surf films is set to be screened, including Endless WARRIORS RUN Summer, Big Wednesday and local SLIGO JAZZ PROJECT Strandhill, Aug 27th, surf movie Waveriders.Meanwhile, Sligo town, July 19th-24th, sligojazz.ie warriorsfestival.com Etienne Zack, the Model’s One of the most innovative music One of the most fiercely contested current artist in residence, will be festivals in the country, featuring a races in the country, attracting running art workshops for youths week of workshops, classesand hundreds every year to race up and seniors. ensemble performances. Among Knocknarea hill, and the tenacity of theperformers this year are the competitors during the event is CAIRDE SUMMER FESTIVAL Andreas Varady, the Dublin City matched only by their appetite for Sligo town, until July 10th, Jazz Orchestra, and Gilad Atzmon’s the post-race party. cairdefestival.com Orient House Ensemble. For those There’s still time to catch the Cairde looking to improve their chops, the Summer Festival –from Chekhov’s line-up of tutors includes Grammy The Bear and concerts from Tupelo -winning drummer John Riley, Jean and Lisa Hannigan to the Frivolous Toussaint on saxophone, Marshall Fare flea market. Gilkes on trombone and more. SLIGO STAGES RALLY YEATS INTERNATIONAL Co Sligo, July 9th SUMMER SCHOOL This weekend it will be foot to the July 24th-August 5th, floor when the Sligo Stages Rally yeats-sligo.com/summer_school roars into the county.
20 | THE IRISH TIMES Sligo |July 6, 2011 FESTIVALS SLIGO
SLIGO RACES Clockwise from far left: The Various dates, countysligoraces.com Warriors Run; the South Sligo This weekend you can savour the Summer School; oysters at the thrill of the chase at the Sligo Yeats Summer School Races. Reserve atable in the Cleveragh Room, with athree- course meal, grandstand viewing sligotradsingers.ie area, betting and race card for ¤50. Sligo Traditional Singers Circle will host aweekend of sessions, lectures SOUTH SLIGO SUMMER SCHOOL and field trips in Rosses Point. Tubbercurry, July 10th-16th, sssschool.org SLIGO FESTIVAL OF Classes and workshops on set BAROQUE MUSIC dancing and sean nós dancing, with The Model, Sept 30th-Oct 2nd, ahost of recitals and céilís. sligobaroquefestival.com The programme for this festival is SLIGO MYTHS AND LEGENDS being finalised, but expect astrong SCHOOL line-up of fantastic classical music. July 23rd-24th, lughzone.com Every inch of land in Sligo has its SLIGO OKTOBERFEST own myth or legend. You can learn Sligo town, Sept 30th-Oct 2nd, more about them at this storytelling sligotourism.ie and theatrical school. Get out the lederhosen, polish up your best stein and set your liver to JAMES MORRISON 19TH resilient for aline-up of music, song, TRADITIONAL MUSIC FESTIVAL art, dance –and beer. Riverstown, July 29th-31st, events vie for space with dog shows, morrison.ie farm-machinery displays and, erm, BALLINTOGHER ANNUAL FEIS This is one of the highlights of the ... potato picking. Ballintogher, Oct 21st-30th trad calendar and commemorates Set-dancing classes and singing to Sligo fiddler James Morrison. MULLAGHMORE HARVEST SHOW beat the band at this festival in AND DONKEY DERBY memory of flute player John Egan. CARMEL GUNNING Mullaghmore, Aug 28th INTERNATIONAL SUMMER SCHOOL Does exactly what it says on the SLIGO LIVE Sligo town, Aug 1st-5th donkey-shaped tin. Go along, put Sligo town, Oct 26th-31st, sligolive.ie Classes in tin whistle, flute, fiddle, the videos on YouTube afterwards, Afolk, roots and indie festival that’s bodhrán, banjo, mandolin, and amuse your friends. acut above the rest, with more than traditional guitar and traditional 100 events, 80 per cent of which are singing, along with the inevitably 100th BELTRA SHOW free. Headlining this year are Elvis eventful sessions and recitals. Beltra, Sept 3rd Costello and KT Tunstall. Expect seriousculinary competition TUBBERCURRY OLD FAIR DAY at the All-Ireland Baking Challenge, SLIGO INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL whichwill put the sheep and dog CHORAL FESTIVAL Tubbercurry, Aug 6th-11th trials in the shade. Not to mention Sligo town, Nov 10th-13th, Every year the town is packed to the flower arrangingwhich will sligochoralfest.com the rafters for one of the longest attract its own hardy annuals. Some of the world’s finest choirs established old fair days in Ireland. will be alighting on Sligo town for SLIGOTRADITIONAL competitions and concerts in SLIGO HERITAGE WEEK SINGING WEEKEND November. This one spills out of Various locations, Aug 20th-28th, Rosses Point, Sept 30th-Oct 2nd, the churches and into the streets. heritageweek.ie Sligo boasts more heritage than most counties and this week marks its natural, built and cultural heritage with aseries of events as part of National Heritage Week.
COLEMAN TRADITIONAL FESTIVAL Gurteen, Aug 26th-28th, colemanirishmusic.com Celebrating the life of fiddler Michael Coleman.
GURTEEN AGRICULTURAL AND HORSE SHOW Lisacheen Farm, Gurteen, Aug 28th Show jumping and equestrian
THE IRISH TIMES Sligo |July 6, 2011 |21 SLIGO SURF’S UP
Sligo has arange of surfing beaches – Laurence Mackin counts down the top picks of the pros Catch aSligo wave
URFERS GUARD their and there is aright-hand reef break of up to 10 feet –afavourite with secret spots more closely to boot. The best swell direction is intermediate surfers. Easkey Right than their lives it seems –ask from the northwest. is strictly for experts, and breaks Sany surfer for ahint or tip over areef with asteep takeoff. and you’re met with ashake of the EASKEY head and aslight smile. Despite being little more than a STREEDAGH Sligo, though, boasts more than small village, Easkey is one of Streedagh Strand is about halfway its fair share of spots, with one Ireland’s most famous surfing between Sligo town and Bundoran, surfer Ispoke to reckoning there locations. Easkey Left is along left and while not as consistent as some were about “150 waves between point wave that can produce peaks of the others, it’s asolid beach Bundoran and Belmullet, all break popular with beginners and working off different conditions”. intermediates. The long, sandy Here are afew of the best. beach can get busy in summer and is best surfed in southeasterly STRANDHILL winds. It needs adecent swell to This is nearly every surfer’s first make it interesting though. port of call in Sligo. It has one of the most consistent beach breaks in the MULLAGHMORE country, and is accessible for Mullaghmore is aland of contrasts. beginners. When the forecast is On the one hand, there is awide, good, the waves develop plenty of flat beach break to the northeast, teeth to challenge the more that, in the right conditions, experienced surfer. Currents beginners can have some fun on. and riptides are fairly strong Then you have areef break that though, and on high tide it washes is one of the most fearsome waves right into the rocks, making it on the west coast and the biggest treacherous. The seafront also has ever surfed in Irish waters. The aselection of schools (we wave itself is shallow, but has recommend Perfect Day) and immense power. Aworld-class restaurants. wave, for professionals only. Big-wave surfer Al Mennie ENNISCRONE describes surfing the biggest wave Another one high on the hitlist, of his life at Mullaghmore in 2007: Enniscrone is agood learning “There was no doubt that the wave beach, with calm, rolling waves in coming was amonster. It was most conditions. Waves break at US pro Kelly Slater on location in coming out of ablack ocean the beach on both left and right, Easkey for the film Wave Riders beneath alightning-forked angry
22 | THE IRISH TIMES Sligo |July 6, 2011 SURF’S UP SLIGO sky. It had my name on it. I remember tilting my head back and closing my eyes momentarily and thinking of my dad before focusing on the wave. It stood like a six-storey office block. As Igot to about half-way down it, it just lurched on the reef and grew massively above me. Ithought Iwas agoner. It tried to suck me up the face with it and Ifelt like Iwasn’t going to be able to make the rest of the drop ...Itightened down into a low crouch and took the rock boils at high speed, and Imade it out without falling. Icouldn’t calm down, Iwas ecstatic.”
PROWLERS The exact location of Prowlers, the latest, biggest and scariest monster Above: Waveriding at Mullaghmore. wave to be discovered off the Irish Left: Strandhill on acalm evening. coast, is still something of aclosely guarded secret. The strongest rumour is that it’s 2km off the right hander and ashorter, steeper people cut their teeth on. It needs a Sligo/Donegal coast, and apparently wave that curves to the left. It is decent northwesterly swell to get all the locals are in on the secret. So definitely one for those looking for moving, but surf is fairly consistent chance your arm –assuming, that more challenging surf. on the left-hand break. It is popular is, you’re aprofessional-level surfer so can get crowded and the riptides with decades of experience and no KILCUMMIN can be quite strong. fear. Otherwise, stick to the online This is one of the first reef breaks videos. HIDDEN
AUGHRIS HEAD GEM Aughris Head is awell sheltered CONEY ISLAND bay that gets decent surf, even when wet conditions leave most HICH CAME first, Sligo’s Once on dry land, you can take other beaches flat. For many, Coney Island or the NYC the edge off the day in the Pub, though, the attraction is the reward Wversion? Aclue might lie in which was first licensed in 1856. of apint in the beautiful Beach Bar its Irish name Inishmulclohy, The island has several beautiful, afterwards –one of the best pubs in which after afew pints deserted beaches, the the west (see page 26). The sandy could sound like a main one being beach makes anice change from slurred version of Carty’s Strand. En the rocks of some of the area’s Coney. The nearest route you can take other coastal spots. It faces north, thing to truth is astory the weight off on St so northern swells are needed to that aSligo captain, Patrick’s Wishing trigger the waves. Peter O’Connor, Chair, placed here by named the New York the peripatetic saint, LIGHTHOUSE island in the late 1700s whose fingermarks Lighthouse to the north is a –and few locals would can still be seen in challenging reef break that needs a argue with that. the rock. He also took good paddle out. There’s apowerful At its peak, 200 the time to curse the people lived here, but island, after being fed after the Famine the two cats instead of population was the rabbits he asked Agallop in the sand decimated and now for, hence the reason the island is home to there is no church on OR SANDY thrills of the just one family. the island. four-legged variety, why not The trip to Coney is Another Fexplore the beach on eventful. Boats from the mainland monument of sorts is the Whale’s horseback. Go for ahack along regularly call in, or you can brave Grave. In 1977 adead sperm whale Streedagh Beach and enjoy the the causeway, guided by 14 pillars was washed ashore (there are views of Benbulben in the built in 1845. It is only accessible pictures of it in the Pub), and it distance. Contact Island at low tide, and on the day we was buried on the headland. Part View Riding Stables, were there, aforlorn looking jeep of its backbone is visible above the islandviewridingstables.com had made it halfway before giving ground, though now it could easily Tel: 071-9166156 up the ghost. be mistaken for arock.
THE IRISH TIMES Sligo |July 6, 2011 | 23 SLIGO NIGHTLIFE
zxgnxbvn Kelly’s Bar gem here Striking the key note
OSLIGO IS entertainment Given its rich legacy, it’s not surprising that central. Its musical legacy plays akey role in its rich Alanna Gallagher finds there’s music and Ccultural history. The county can lay claim to craic of all kinds to be found in Sligo musicians who are leaders in their genres; from the tenor singing of Count John McCormack, to the traditional tunes of Dervish, to the pop ballads of super successful Westlife. And country music is well represented by Sandy Kelly, who once duetted with Johnny Cash in Markree Castle.
TOWN THRILLS The entertainment starts in Sligo’s bars. There’s ablues jam on Mondays in Furey’s Bar,once owned by Dervish, and traditional music in art bar Shoot The Crows on Tuesdays and in Early’s Bridge Street Bar on Thursdays. All start at 10pm. Sunday sessions range from
24 | THE IRISH TIMES Sligo |July 6, 2011 NIGHTLIFE SLIGO lunch time jazz at the Harp Tavern nights. on Quay Street (071-9142473 theharptavernsligo.com) to BALLYSADARE unplugged worship at the MASS – Ballysadare’s musical heritage the Massive Acoustic Sunday stretches back to the folk festivals of Session that takes place at the late 1970s and early 1980s, McGarrigle’s Bar on O’Connell when nascent act Clannad and Street (071-606 9007). It starts at established international names, 8pm. There’s atrad session in such as Donovan, headlined. The Donaghy’s Bar on Lord Edward Thatch Bar (071-9167288) offers Street (071-916 2417) from 10pm. music at weekends and O’Connor’s If you’d rather stay in one place, Bar (071-9167267) is another great the Embassy Complexis one of the place for live music. city’s best-known central destinations. Comprising the Belfry GRANGE Bar (belfrypub.com),the Embassy Moran’s pub (071-916 3131) holds Bar &Grill (embassygrill.eu) and occasional free céilí nights and Toffs Nite Club,itmeans you don’t actively encourages visitors to get have to spend your evening taxi-ing up and dance. The next one takes from one destination to another. place on July 14th and there’s The Belfry offers cocktails, another on October 13th. American pool and has two outdoor heated areas which will help you GURTEEN immerse yourself in Sligo’s social At the exhibition area of the scene, while the Embassy Wine Bar village’s Ceoláras Coleman and Grill, overlooking the (071-9182599 Garavogue river offers great food in colemanirishmusic.com) traditional arelaxed ambiance. singing, musical styles and It has four bars over two floors instructions on two-hand and step and caters for all musical tastes. dancing give areal sense of the The town has several late bars aural history of the region. worth investigating. Fiddler’s Admission is ¤5. There are summer Creek has party nights every Above: Art bar Shoot the Crows, seisiúns on Wednesday and Saturday while The Garavogue Sligo town. Saturday nights in July and August. (garavogue.ie), set on the river Left: Hargadon's pub and Admission is ¤10. Family and group bank, has live music on Thursdays restaurant ,Sligo town. rates available. and Fridays and DJ sets on Below left: TJ Kennedy’s. Saturday nights. And you can eat, HIDDEN drink and dance the night away at Shenanigans (shenanigans.ie). HARRY’S BAR, Rosses Point GEM On the club front Clarence Bar and Club and the Velvet Room (velvetroom.ie), which opens on here are pubs and then there and the huge, terrifying-looking Saturday nights only, and so always are pubs –and this one is vegetarian piranhas that patrol the Tdefinitely the latter. Harry’s on tank towards the back, glaring out draws acrowd. Or book atable at Pure (purenightclub.ie). the seafront at Rosses Point is from behind the bullet-proof glass. For acure the next morning visit something of a There’s the TJKennedy’s (071-9143003), areal landmark, and one ancient natural rugby pub. Named after the famed of the most well discovered Leinster player Terry Kennedy, extraordinary bars while the owners father of proprietor Joan Quinn, it in the west. This were building an has acontinental-style front lounge establishment is extension; leading into atraditional back stuffed full of punters can now lounge, with an extensive collection seafaring look down at it of rugby memorabilia. paraphernalia, and through the glass every polished top of the best VILLAGE VIBES item has astory or 10 to go with it. table in the house. BALLINACARROW There’s the Russian throttle, The pub has been in the Ewing The Sligo Traditional Singers’ part of alitany of items taken from family for generations and Harry Circle (086 3097596 aship by agrateful crew who were Ewing, who died in 2006, also has a sligotradsingers.ie )promotes the stuck afew miles offshore. The pier named after him. Warmth, arts of traditional singing and locals brought them food and chat, and aslew of stories washed storytelling and holds court in supplies, and the crew responded down with aperfect pint –this is Durkin’s pub in Ballinacarrow on in kind with bits of the ship. There the kind of pub worth crossing the the second Wednesday of the are the fairly harmless-looking country for. month. Durkin’s is also home to a piranhas down the front of the bar, Laurence Mackin traditional music session on Friday THE IRISH TIMES Sligo |July 6, 2011 | 25 SLIGO NIGHTLIFE
The Embassy Bar &Grill, Sligo town Below: The Beach Bar, Aughris
RIVERSTOWN contemporary music sets such as James Morrison Teach Cheoil Carousel and The Curly Bobs. (morrison.ie) was built to The seaside setting is commemorate fiddle player spectacular. Many visitors like to Morrison and his contemporaries in park on the edge of the Dunmoran the area. From September, it is a Strand and walk across it to the hive of activity with trad music, Beach Bar. On agood day you can sean nós dancing and accordion take your pint outside and enjoy the classes, and free evening fiddle and vista at one of the establishment’s tin whistle lessons for juniors on many picnic tables. Also agastro Fridays. Every three weeks there’s pub, the seafood chowder is one of asession in one of the village’s which recently enthralled Game of its signature dishes. The bar has three pubs; Sean McDermott’s, Thrones actor Peter Dinklage. The accommodation on site. John McDermott’s or The Corner music varies from the Bush Céilí House. Band to groups playing ■ For more see sligomusic.ie
STRANDHILL SOUNDS The Venue (071-916 8167 venuestrandhill.ie) has live music on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. The set list ranges from contemporary covers to trad, with local musician Seamus O’Dowd on the mike on Thursdays and other local musicians taking to the stage on weekends.
AUGHRIS The Beach Bar (071-9176465 thebeachbarsligo.com), in Aughris, Templeboy, is a17th-century, thatch-roofed establishment that has live music on Saturday nights and on bank holiday Sundays,
26 | THE IRISH TIMES Sligo |July 6, 2011 GOLF SLIGO
Sligo’s rolling greens
of Ireland’s outstanding golf venues Looking at Sligo’s –and with some history attached. The land for the course layout golf courses, you’d was originally leased from aman named Henry Middleton, an uncle be forgiven for of Nobel Prize winning writer, William Butler Yeats and his thinking the land was brother, the famous painter, Jack. The story of the course is entirely carved out with the wrapped up in the culture and history of the area, with the sport in mind, writes imposing Benbulben mountain a Top: Enniscrone Golf Club sentry on one side, and the endless Johnny Watterson Above: County Sligo Golf Club Atlantic Ocean on the other. The famous course is also host to the first big amateur competition of EW WHO HAVE walked the interesting holes, some using the the season, where no lesser figures links in Enniscrone can feel uneven run of undulating fairways than 2011 US Open winner Rory anything but that they are in a and others the mountainous dunes, McIlroy and three times Major Fspecial golfing place –not just giving the impression of narrow winner Padraig Harrington cut by virtue of the beauty of the strips of fairway running through their teeth as young up-and-coming landscape, but by the natural way it the sandy hills like valleys. players. has been used to craft one of The course is now positioned Harrington won his first senior Ireland’s most beautiful golf courses. 17th in the 2010 rankings of the top title in 1994 at Rosses Point, while Blessed with acoastline that 100 courses in Ireland by Golf the new superstar of the game provides the terrain from which Digest Ireland magazine. Apart McIlroy was the youngest ever great links course are made, from the championship links known winner of the West in 2005 at the Enniscrone typifies the sweep and as the Dunes, there is also the tender age of 15 –and made it a rugged panoramic beauty of Killala splendid 9hole Scurmore course. double by holding onto the title the Bay, which attracts so many golfers Not so far away just outside Sligo following year. each year. town, County Sligo Golf Club at Like Enniscrone, this Founded in 1918 and redesigned Rosses Point is another jewel in the championship venue adheres to the by Eddie Hackett in 1974 and then scatter of top-class courses around best principles of links golf and uses Donald Steel as recently as 2001, Yeats country. the natural contours of the land to Enniscrone provides abattery of Established in 1894, it’s another best effect.
THE IRISH TIMES Sligo |July 6, 2011 | 27 SLIGO GOLF
Strandhill Golf Club, and, SHOPPING SLIGO below, Castle Dargan Golf Club
Known for its sheer beauty, Strandhill is located beside the picturesque seaside village of Strandhill approximately 8km from Sligo town. An 18 hole, par 69 venue, also designed by the legendary Hackett, it nestles under Knocknarea Mountain. The course was originally designed as anine-hole until 1973, when it was enlarged to 18 holes. The welcoming club again provides holes snaking around some of the biggest dunes in these islands. Catch the course on asummer’s morning or evening with long shadows cast and you will see it at its best. As is the case with both County Sligo and Enniscrone, straight hitting around the dune holes is amust. Ballymote Golf Club is another most of the holes protected by Darren Clarke. This year it plays find, but this time inland and clever bunkering. host to the Connacht Senior hidden between the Curlew There is amore majestic feel to Championship. Mountains and Ballymote town. Castle Dargan, where the estate For the eternal student and With its signature Lake Hole 7th provides more than just agolf perfectionist alike, Sligo Golf set into Ballinacarrow Lake, locals, course. The whole setting makes Academy is apractice facility which players and visitors claim it the package adifferent experience includes amodern 14-bay driving matches up very well indeed to the to the seaside links. Castle Dargan range with automatic tees and an celebrated par 317th hole in provides acalm and sometimes all-weather Huxley putting green. Druid’s Glen in Co Wicklow, where eerie presence on the horizon of the With four PGA teaching the Irish Open was held some years 6800 yard par 72 course. Yeats professionals giving tuition ago. It plays over 2,640m of even penned apoem almost a throughout the week, Sligo golf undulating, lush parkland. century ago having been inspired by academy offers lessons in afun and Small too can be mighty and avisit to the grounds. friendly atmosphere. Tubbercurry is ascenic nine-hole The “King of the Great Clock course set into the Ox mountains Tower” lines were of another time ■ See countysligogolfclub.ie, 30km south of Sligo town. With compared to the contemporary enniscronegolfclub.com, charming views of Croagh Patrick, style of Castle Dargan now, where castledargan.com/Golf, another Hackett design ensures it spectacular views overlook the strandhillgolfclub.com, tests even the best golfers with 18-hole golf course, designed by sligogolfacademy.com
28 | THE IRISH TIMES Sligo |July 6, 2011 RELAXATION SLIGO
Body matters Aspa treatment at Voya in Strandhill The natural Sligo scenery is pure inspiration for abracing walk or a relaxing session in aluxury spa, writes Rosemary Mac Cabe
LIGO HAS PLENTY to the rumoured burial place of Queen Castle Dargan Golf Hotel and nourish visitors from the Maebh of Connacht. Wellness Resort (castledargan.com) inside out, with aplethora of The walk to the 452m summit combines the sport with great Shealth-enhancing services on should take about an hour. relaxation options at its Icon Spa, hand. Wear decent walking shoes which offers arange of treatments. For years, known as “the sailor’s because the trail can be slippery – At the Yeats Country Hotel and cure”, the traditional seaweed bath but the superb views of the Ox Leisure Club in Rosses Point is an experience that, for the Mountains and Benbulben on the (yeatscountryhotel.com) guests can uninitiated, is alot more than the other side make it well worthwhile. enjoy golf, the spa facilities and the sum of its parts, and at the same For alittle more luxury with your glorious blue-flag beach. time exactly what it says on the tin. health experience, Cromleach The hotel has an award-winning Abath is filled with natural, Lodge (cromleach.com) has an leisure club alongside its Eros freshly harvested seaweed, and you award-winning spa, as well as an Luxury Spa, which offers awide are immersed in it until the water outdoor hot tub. range of luxury therapies. becomes tepid, then shower off and The Pier Head Hotel Whether you take it into your go back to everyday life. (pierheadhotel.ie) in Mullaghmore, own hands in the great outdoors, or The benefits are immediate and also has an outdoor hot tub, and a allow others to pamper your lasting; seaweed contains almost gym, sauna and pool for all hotel stresses away, adose of Sligo is an every nutrient the body needs to bookings. There are also seaweed elixir guaranteed to refresh and replenish and regenerate its cells, baths in its leisure centre area. energise. and the bath will leave you feeling wholly rejuvenated. There are two destinations to choose from in Sligo: Kilcullen’s Seaweed Baths at Enniscrone(kilcullenseaweed- baths.com) have been going since 1912, and Voya Seaweed Baths (voya.ie) is the current incarnation of abusiness that also started in 1912, in Strandhill. For open-air walks that will refresh your mind and body, Sligo offers great beaches and swathes of wide open countryside. Why not take in asigned walking route, such as that at Slish Wood, a short walk of about 3km off the R287 from Sligo. Another idea would be to walk up Knocknarea mountain to the cairn, Cromleach Lodge has an award-winning spa and outdoor hot tub
THE IRISH TIMES Sligo |July 6, 2011 | 29 SLIGO SHOPPING
Buyer be there
Fashion, food, crafts –Sligo has it all, writes Alanna Gallagher
LIGO TOWN OFFERS agreat Countess Markievicz used to ride in the galleria-style pedestrianised shopping mix from fashion to on horseback and insist that she walkway. cosmetics, gourmet food to have her dresses (which were made Zulu is aindependent fashion Santiques. The centre is ablend there) altered without dismounting. boutique catering for everything of traditional shop fronts and These days, the lingerie from occasion wear to off-duty contemporary, small-scale department, Ophelia Lingerie, basics. It stocks Mary Grant, shopping centres. And the vibrant is the big draw, stocking fashion knitwear and accessories by Sarah independent boutique culture labels such as Elle MacPherson Pacini and weekend wear by Save showcases local talent alongside Intimates, Tommy Hilfiger and The Queen. international labels. Best of all, Lejaby. Jewellery maker Martina Sligo is bijou in size making it a For afast fashion fix head to Hamilton,owner of The Cat and shopping hotspot best explored on Quayside Shopping Centre,a the Moon,epitomises the town’s foot. smartly designed mall that is home sense of cool. As well as stocking Some of its most beautiful shop to River Island, Pull and Bear, one of the most comprehensive fronts date back to the 19th Oasis, Next, Monsoon and ranges of craft in the country she Century. Mullaney Brothers has a Accessorize and even TK Maxx if designs and makes three jewellery listed Connemara marble front. you’re looking for abargain (or you collections on the premises –giving Inside it offers everything from find you didn’t pack the right you achoice of hand-made, hip and fashion to school uniforms for 14 clothes for the weather). portable souvenirs of your stay local schools. Johnston Court is Sligo’s newest Gourmands are well catered for. Henry Lyons,established in shopping experience. Have your Source Sligo (sourcesligo.ie) is the 1835, is another old-school hair done for anight out at Peter go-to place to tickle your taste buds. haberdashery. According to legend Mark,one of the many big names in Kate’s Kitchen (kateskitchen.ie)
30 | THE IRISH TIMES Sligo |July 6, 2011 CRAFTS SLIGO sells fine foods and cupboard Bag by essentials such as Cooperhill’s Ana Faye chunky fruit marmalade, one of the Craft county numerous big house estates that litter the county. They also sell Crafts are some of the county’s best toiletries. Cosgrove’s,anold buys. Try Michael Kennedy Ceramics fashioned country grocer and (michaelkennedyceramics.com) at food specialist on Market Street, Market Cross, buy crafts at Michael is also worth the detour if only to Quirke’s on Wine Street and pay the marvel at the displays. aforementioned The Cat and The Shopping is hungry Moon (thecatandthemoon.com) a work. For that sugar visit for one of their monthly rush pay Gourmet showcase events featuring leading Parlour Irish craft artisans. (gourmetparlour.com) The Made In Sligo (madeinsligo.ie) on Bridge Street avisit craft trail offers you aguided tour to and indulge in aslice of meet makers across all the craft whatever you fancy. Eat on disciplines in their studios in various the hoof and dive back into parts of the county. From Ana the town’s offerings. Or if you Faye’s gorgeous leather handbags fancy sitting down somewhere to Lynda Gault’s pottery and the order afreshly-made baguette goldsmithing of Gilbert Henry,it’s or hearty bowl of soup at Café awonderful way to better Fleur (cafefleur.ie), asmart little appreciate the piece you buy. coffee shop on O’Connell Street. You can explore further at For acaffeine fix visit O’Hehir’s Benbulben Pottery Bakery and Café on Wine (davemcloughlinceramics.com), set at Street. the foot of the sphinx-like landmark in Town markets add personality to Rathcormac. And Drumcliffe Tea the busy setting, and Sligo Town House and Craft Shop is the perfect Market is held in Market Yard on place to indulge several senses at Fridays from 8am to 3pm and a once. Browse their selection of Yeats Farmers’ Market takes place at IT and Irish interest books and explore Sligo on Saturdays from 10am to their selection of original quality crafts 1pm. The Country Market at while slaking your thirst with acuppa. Beltra, held in the lovely old corrugated- iron community hall, is an established place to meet up. HIDDEN Give yourself plenty of time to check out the local produce, GEM home-baked goods and local TOBERNALT crafts. In Ballymote the market is held in the town square from OBERNALT –“the cliff well” – here all year round, and also at 9am to 4pm. Ballinacarrow’s is at the western end of Lough further shrines to Saint Anne and country market takes place every TGill. An age-old pilgrimage her daughter, the Blessed Virgin Saturday from 10am to noon, site, The Holy Well Mary, the Holy while the Village Food Fare in is screened by Family and the Collooney is acombination of local trees, wild garlic Marian Shrine. The and artisan producers and takes and hart's-tongue gravel walks have place the first Saturday of each fern. Supplicants numbered month. hold that its waters limestone Stations If you fancy aspot of antiquing have healing of the Cross, and go to Yeats Country Antiques,in powers for though somewhat Branley’s Yard in Rathcormack. ailments of the eye cluttered lately by They specialise in fine Georgian, and head granite stones Victorian and Edwardian period especially. From announcing the furniture and collectables. the well abrisk mysteries of the No trip to Co Sligo is complete stream flows, Rosary, along with without paying avisit to Voya making aconstant sponsored stone Cosmetics’ (voya.ie) humble soothing music. benches for the headquarters on the prom in The restored Penal steady stream of Strandhill. Try some of the products Mass Rock stands hushed visitors, the that so enamoured Richard below alovely altar holy well preserves Branson that they are now his built into the base its unique toiletries of choice on his private of the cliff. Secluded and sheltered atmosphere of healing tranquillity. yacht –quite acoup for asmall, from the elements, candles burn Brian Leyden independent Sligo brand.
THE IRISH TIMES Sligo |July 11, 2011 | 31 To cherish memories forever, you have to live them first. Experience world class surfing at Strandhill, or immerse yourself in the spectacular landscapes of Ben Bulben or the Ox Mountains. Horse riding, trekking, mountain biking, kite surfing, golfing or just lazily walking some of the most beautiful beaches in Ireland – in Sligo you’re free to do it all.
/SLIGO discoverireland.ie
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