The Inside: Par Pg. 16 A QUARTET OF DESIGNERS/8 JONES NET FALLS/12 WWD is Web Views WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’THURSDAY Daily Newspaper • October 27, 2005• $2.00 List Juiced — Juicy Couture has designer ambitions. Tonight, founders Gela Taylor and Pamela Skaist-Levy will introduce Couture Couture, an evening collection featuring a range of looks, from gentle strapless lace to silver full of rocker chic. Here, an embroidered and jeweled cotton and linen strapless . For more on the company’s latest venture, see page 10.

Bolstering Profitability: Estée Lauder to Sell Stila In Cost-Cutting Initiative

By Molly Prior NEW YORK — Estée Lauder Cos. Inc.’s first quarter was a tough one but the company is taking steps to increase profitability, including the sale of its color brand Stila. The firm is also working on a cost- saving initiative that could reap up to $45 million in fiscal 2006. It faced several hurdles during the quarter, such as the impact of department store consolidation, higher energy costs and storm-related store closures in the South, as well as lower sales relating to its fall promotions. As a result, net earnings from continuing operations for the first See Lauder, Page12 PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear ™ vests and “Charlie’s Angels”-inspired are making a 6 comeback this season as Seventies nostalgia sets in. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL Estée Lauder’s first quarter was a tough one, but the firm is working on WORKING MOTHERS NEED WARDROBES THAT WORK 1 bolstering profits, including the sale of Stila and a cost-savings plan. Separates are Equal to the Challenge EYE: Fashion parties all over town, from Chanel to Rochas to Alberta 4 Ferretti at Bergdorf Goodman. Meredith had always been a career-oriented Certainly, these women are not all sitting around ACTIVE: Fast-growing retro sportswear label Original Penguin by person. But something changed when she had her in or sweat pants all day. So, how exactly 11 Munsingwear is stepping up the pace in opening its own stores. daughter, McKenna, now 2 years old. “I really do you dress for work, when a typical day might Third-quarter results at Jones Apparel Group were hurt by restructuring didn’t want to go back to all the stressful hours and find you doing a report at home in the morning, 12 charges, but it didn’t appear to have any major implications for fiscal 2005. commuting that I’d been doing,” giving a quick change to the says the 38-year-old marketing baby before handing her off to Classified Advertisements ...... 18-19 executive, who lives in the the sitter, and then attending a To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is Chicago suburbs. “Suddenly I lunch meeting or giving a [email protected], using the individual’s name. had this miraculous little person presentation in the afternoon? WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. in my life, and I realized that I “Separates are the way to VOLUME 190, NO. 91. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in June, July and November, two additional issues in April, May, August and December, and three additional wanted to slow down and enjoy go—especially knits,” advises issues in February, March, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. this time with her.” Linda DeFranco, senior PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, At the same time, she needed trend forecaster with Cotton Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice to bring in an income. So Incorporated. “There have President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Group Vice Meredith, who’d been working been some beautiful innovations Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. in cotton mercerized knits; Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. for her firm for six years, Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: approached her employer about they can be worn with on DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE working from home two days a the weekend, or with a pair of INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; week. The company agreed, during the week.” or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one rather than lose her, and Meredith The key is to create a look year $145. All other U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one found the balance she was that’s put together, but year $595. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, “Flexibility is the number-one business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For looking for. thing that working moms are comfortable. “It’s all about the permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: polished casual look,” advises www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, “Being home those two days looking for.” we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would immediately helped drop my Thayer. “The polish comes interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at — Carol Evans, P. O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. stress level,” she says. “I am still from wearing a tailored WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED Working Mother Media with your corduroy trousers, MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND available for a presentation if the TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART office needs me, but I’m not running out the door or wearing something like a novelty floral WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE every day. And I love that I can go downstairs and or an asymmetrical sweater. It’s fashionable, ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. take a ‘baby break’!” but not fussy.” These days, many women with young children “Casual doesn’t have to mean sloppy to be are actively seeking out flexible work options that comfortable,” affirms Sean Krebs, a spokesperson for allow them to be home more with their families— Gap. “There is a way to be casual and comfortable— In Brief pursuing consulting work, part-time work, thekey is to pay attention to fit and proportion.” or working from home. According to Cotton This season, Gap is featuring a number of pieces ● ROSEN TO HOUSE OF DEREON: Charles “Chip” Rosen has Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™, 16.9% of that allow a woman to transition easily from home joined House of Deréon as president and general manager. women respondents said they work from home, an to office, including refined cable-knit and Rosen will be responsible for operations, merchandising, de- increase of 4.2 points over last year. cardigans, which can be paired with the brand’s sign, sales, marketing, licensing and manufacturing of the collec- That’s something that Carol Evans, CEO and corduroy trousers, or dressy, stretch-woven cotton tion. He reports to the board of Beyond Productions, the global founder of Working Mother Media, hears a lot of pinstripe trousers. license holder for Beyoncé and Tina Knowles’ contemporary these days. “Flexibility is the number-one thing Another popular apparel option—particularly collection. For the past four years, Rosen was vice president of global licensing and marketing at Sweetface Fashion Co., the that working moms are looking for,” she relates. for women working from home with small master brand for JLo and Sweetface by Jennifer Lopez. Before So important is this issue children—are cotton fabrics Do you work from home? that, he was managing director of marketing communications at to women, that flexibility treated with stain-resistant Hill and Knowlton, the public relations firm. Earlier, he was at was the overall theme 2004 2005 Change coatings. “If you have a the Timex Corp. as the global brand manager for Nautica, a li- for Working Mother Yes 12.7% 16.9% +4.2 points baby, and you’re dealing censed brand. with bottles, formula, etc., Magazine’s 2005 list of ● then finding that’s stain-resistant and easy U.S. CHARGES CHINA: Citing persistent piracy and counter- “The 100 Best Companies,” an annual ranking of feiting in China, the administration has gone to the World the most family-friendly companies. to wash is a real plus,” says DeFranco. Trade Organization to try to force China to better detail its en- Evans notes that currently, a little more than half While the benefits of flexible programs for forcement efforts. “Based on all available information, piracy of all companies offer some sort of flexible program women are obvious, companies who provide such and counterfeiting remain rampant in China despite years of en- for employees. The most popular option? Telecom- options also see tremendous advantages. In short, gagement on this issue,” U.S. Trade Representative Rob muting. “It works well for women with kids of all says Evans of Working Mother Media, “You get an Portman said in a statement. “Our goal is to get detailed infor- ages,” says Evans. “These women don’t want to cut employee who’s very focused, very dedicated, and mation that will help pinpoint exactly where the enforcement system is breaking down, so we can decide appropriate next their paycheck, and being home gives them a who wants to get the work done is as short a time as steps.” The request was made under the WTO’s agreement on release valve.” possible—what more could a company ask for?” Trade-Related Aspects of Intellectual Property Rights. Catching Other options include job-sharing, flextime Can we expect to see more flexible work options just a portion of all counterfeits, U.S. Customs & Border (where an employee might work from, say, for women in the future? Evans says the trend will Protection seized $138.8 million worth of goods last year, $51.7 7:30-3:30, rather than the typical 9-5), and only continue to grow. These days, she notes, flexible million in apparel. About 63 percent of the goods seized came working part-time. Many companies are also programs have even been “trickling upwards,” from China. providing more flexible maternity leave offerings, appealing to moms of older kids, too. In some ways, ● PAKISTAN SEEKS AID: Earthquake-ravaged Pakistan has peti- such as phase backs, where a woman can return to these moms may need such programs even more. tioned the U.S., the European Union and Canada for textiles and work just one or two days a week at first, and This story is one in a series of articles based on findings apparel trade breaks to help the country generate funds to assist gradually back into full time. from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ with the huge humanitarian relief and reconstruction efforts, Of course, with such flexible work situations also tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these pages, senior Pakistani officials said here Wednesday. “If we can have comes the opportunity for a more relaxed approach each story will focus on a specific topic as it relates to the our own resources boosted by trade concessions, it would help to apparel. “People who work from home are able to our reconstruction effort,” said Salman Shah, economic adviser American consumer and her attitudes and behavior to the prime minister of Pakistan, in an interview. A senior U.S. be more creative in what they’re wearing,” relates Wendy regarding clothing, appearance, fashion, official, who requested anonymity, asked if something will be Thayer, a spokesperson for Garnet Hill. “Their fiber selection and many other timely, worked out on the tariff relief front, said, “Absolutely.” Textiles choices can be more colorful and more individual.” relevant subjects. and apparel combined account for over 70 percent of the South Asian nation’s merchandise exports. WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2005 3 WWD.COM Party With Bill, but Don’t Forget to Vote

By Rosemary Feitelberg Kirstin Bill Clinton works the crowd. Pierce NEW YORK — Former president Bill Clinton, se- performs. curing this year’s title for least likely person to make an in-store appearance, touched down in the Polo store here Tuesday night to

rally young voters. JOHN CALABRESE PHOTOS BY Although Clinton managed to squeeze in some shopping, his main mission was the keynote speech for Generation Engage, a nonpartisan grassroots group seeking to get twentysomethings, especially those without college diplomas, to vote and be- come involved in the political process. Before Clinton delivered his 15-minute call to action, he schmoozed with Chevy Chase and his wife, Jayni, Agnes Gund and Dylan, Andrew and David Lauren, Betsy McCaughey, former New York lieutenant governor, and other VIPs across the street at the Ralph Lauren store. “More than any other time, you have the opportunity to do public good,” Clinton said. “When you walk away from voting, you can’t say what people used to say or might have said, ‘Oh well, my vote doesn’t make a difference.’ Clearly, your vote does...People are dying to be asked to do something.” “Whether you are Republican or Democrat, liberal or conservative, N.C., and Richmond, Va. Clinton urged the audience to be proactive think government should or should not be more involved, you can’t go about a slew of issues, including reducing greenhouse gases and con- on thinking, ‘This is the way things are. There is nothing I can do.’ It’s servation. not true,” Clinton said. “You cannot for the rest of your life look in the And Clinton noted changes in some nondemocratic countries like mirror and say ‘I regret this, this and this. I wish America were this, China. He recalled that during his presidency in 1998, callers to a this and this.’ You know they’re giving you a vehicle to do it. That’s radio talk show with the mayor of Shanghai were most interested in why I’m honored to be here to support the cause.” griping about potholes and traffic jams. A sure sign to Clinton that Many in the mostly male audience sported blue suits with “the fate of freedom must be secure.” “Engaged” pins on their lapels. Once the Secret Service was in place, David After the speech, asked if there needs to be a commercial tie to David Lauren, whose girlfriend, , was nowhere to be Lauren generate interest, Clinton told WWD, “Not necessarily....The most im- found, took the stage and enhanced the MTV-friendly mood, saying, “I portant thing to pique people’s interest is to make them think that they met the president a few years ago, and for those of you who have not seen him in per- can make a difference. That’s the great thing about this NGO [nongovernmental organi- son, he is truly one of the coolest and most respected guys out there.” zation] explosion and this overall movement that is taking the country....To move toward Video of the event was being beamed to Generation Engage gatherings in Raleigh, a better democracy, we’re asking the people to do it. It’s not rhetoric. It’s wanted.”

harder and harder to get people to say things.” And not just in Washington, either, judging from Katie Couric, who said watching Wallace’s highlight reel “didn’t MEMO PAD make me think of any of my interviews; it just made me see how good Mike is. And how relaxed, and how much he WEIGHING ANCHORS: Corner connects with people.” Oh, the humility! — Jeff Bercovici offices across the TV news business emptied out early DEEP THOUGHTS: Among the many gray heads at Mike Tuesday night as their occupants Wallace’s book party was that of legendary Washington Post gathered to congratulate Mike editor Ben Bradlee. What did the man whose reporters Wallace on the publication of his trusted him with the identity of Deep Throat think of Judith new book, “Between You and Miller’s situation vis-à-vis her New York Times colleagues? Me.” The party, held at the “Well, it helps if your source is right,” he said. “It really Plaza Athenée Hotel and hosted does help a lot. And she had a whole bunch of sources that by Wallace’s “60 Minutes” co- were wrong — really wrong. So she’s behind the eight ball to Cookie’s mock-up cover and the November issue of Child. stars and his friends Nancy TomBrokaw start.” And what should the paper do to set things right? “I Ellison and Bill Rollnick, was don’t want to go there. I would have a plan to get out of that six months, leading up to the magazine’s Nov. 15 launch, filled with the sorts of people who pride themselves on jam. They haven’t got it yet.” — J.B. many in the industry assumed the new Child cover was speaking truth to power or, failing that, making celebrities simply a blatant knockoff. cry on camera. Wallace’s talent for doing both was on JUDY, MEET MARTHA: Speaking of But Child’s fashion director Gay Morris Empson display in a video tribute that included snippets of him Judith Miller, she was only one of two explained, “I went to Pitti Bimbo last January — it’s a interviewing Nancy Reagan, Johnny Carson, Louis Farrakhan famous jailbirds to attend an event fashion show where all the European children’s wear is and others. in honor of Dr. Andrew Weil on shown twice a year — and saw a lot of those fur All this led some to wonder: What was the most painful Tuesday night, the other being there. I brought some back with me from Italy, and when interview Brian Williams ever did? Fortunately, the NBC Martha Stewart. Ever the priestess of we did a fashion show at 7th on Sixth in February, we anchor was on hand to answer. “I think the one that went propriety, Stewart came and left used a lot of them.” down in flames most publicly was, of all people, Angelina early — obviously still abiding by the As for the November cover and its striking resemblance Jolie, on ‘The Today Show.’” he said. “Proof of my long-held whole “lights out” thing. Miller, to the Cookie image, Empson said, “We shot this a while theory that I should be nowhere near morning television. It however, lingered for a while, ago, not long after the fashion show....The that’s on our just was bad karma, and it went poorly. And it was clear that giggling at the bar as if she had not cover is from the Gap, but Bonpoint also had those hats, as we were not meant for each other’s company.” Judith Miller a care in the world and had not just did a couple of other European resources. It’s obviously a Williams’ predecessor, Tom Brokaw, offered his own bad- met with Arthur Sulzberger Jr., trend.” interview story. “I did one with the president of Colombia publisher of The New York Times, to Cookie, of course, won’t be using its chubby, capped one time. He just completely froze up on me. He was discuss her future (or lack thereof) baby on its debut — but not because of Child, and not supposed to be able to speak English and he couldn’t. He with the paper. The party was because Condé Nast executives think the “baby’s too fat,” just sat there. And it was in Bogotá; it’s a long way to go for cohosted by Sonny Mehta and Kathy as Gawker.com reported in August. (Condé Nast a guy to have a complete meltdown on camera on you. I and Tom Freston at the Frestons’ Publications is the parent of Cookie and WWD.) New titles don’t think we used any of it.” Upper East Side mansion, formerly typically launch with a cover not widely seen in advance by Paula Zahn had this to say, about a tense tête-à-tête with owned by Andy Warhol. Rupert its audience and advertisers. — Sara James Pete Rose: “At the end of a very grueling and tough interview, Murdoch escorted his wife, Wendi he turned to me and said, ‘If you were a guy, I’d kick you in Deng, and chatted up other MAN ABOUT TOWN: Editors in chief of Men’s Journal have your ass right now.’” The CNN host called it “one of the journalistic swells, including Mort not historically enjoyed a lot of job security. Is the same highest compliments I’ve ever been paid in my career.” Zuckerman, Jim Kelly and Graydon thing now true for prospective editors in chief? After four Bob Schieffer, currently holding down the desk at “CBS Martha Stewart Carter. — Nandini D’Souza months as features editor at Men’s Health, Tom Foster has Evening News” while the network seeks a successor for Dan left the Rodale-owned title. A spokesman for the magazine Rather, said his most contentious interview was Oliver North. COPY : Those who’ve seen the early marketing declined to comment on the reason for Foster’s departure, “He refused to shake hands with me at the end. It was pretty materials for Cookie have been doing double takes at the but WWD reported earlier this week that he has interviewed rough. But I don’t mind the ones that are hostile. The bad November issue of Child. The Child cover features a for the vacant top job at Men’s Journal. However, a interviews are the ones where they just sit there and don’t chubby baby in a fur hat, looking suspiciously like the baby spokeswoman for Wenner Media, which owns the title, said say anything. And, of course, now, in Washington, everybody on a mocked-up Cookie cover. Since that fake cover of the job had not been offered to anyone as of Wednesday. has a media coach and everybody has talking points and it’s Cookie has been used for promotional purposes for the past Foster did not return messages. — J.B. BROKAW BY SCOTT RUDD/PMC BY BROKAW 4 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2005 WWD.COM

Ivanka Patricia Trump at Clarkson Chanel. Celestial Beings NEW YORK — “It’s all about the bling tonight,” said Chanel’s Maureen Chiquet, motioning not only to her own diamond stunners, but also to the host of jewels on eye® display. The French company commissioned artist Xavier Veilhan to transform an empty space on 57th Street into an inky black cosmos on Monday night for the launch of Chanel’s new jewelry line, Eléments Célestes. Coralie Charriol, Amanda Brooks, Ivanka Trump and Amy Sacco oohed and ahhed over the sparkly pieces swirling on floating discs à la an air hockey game. Better than lamenting the rain. “I’m going to the Venetian Heritage dinner tomorrow night,” said Barbara Cirkva. “I may as well just take a gondola and row.” André Leon Talley, though, was more oblivious to the weather. Asked if his yeti-like fur was waterproof, Talley replied: “No, it isn’t! But it should be. Maybe I should take it and get it glazed.” It was a busy week for Chanel. The following day, Julia Koch, Sloan Barnett, Melania Trump and Nathalie Kaplan chaired The Camellia Luncheon at the firm’s 57th Street Coralie Charriol boutique. The houses’ most loyal ladies turned out to benefit and Dennis Paul the New York Botanical Garden and were rewarded with a show of the 2006 resort collection. Andrea Stark leaned over to Trump as one stick-thin model sauntered by wearing white pants and an unbuttoned jacket with bare skin showing underneath. “That would be great for you,” she enthused to the pregnant Trump, who replied, “Yeah, right, can you imagine,” outlining her growing belly Alberta with her hands for effect. Ferretti That evening, the parties continued as a bevy of European and designers, in town for Fashion Group International’s Night of Stars, Alex wined and dined with socials, editors and clients alike across town. Kramer Olivier Theyskens of Rochas was feted by Howard Socol and W Magazine at Barneys New York, which drew guests such as Victoria Traina, Lisa Airan and Linda Wells. A man of few words, Theyskens seemed overwhelmed by all of the attention from retailers and editors. “There is never enough time to do everything you want when you come to New York,” he lamented. Simon Doonan, meanwhile, was admiring the second floor’s transformation into a hip, vibe-y lounge with dove gray drapes, satin pillows, candelabras and oversized divans, not to mention a caged parrot or two. “It’s like that last scene in ‘Blow-Up’ where they’re all lying around smoking opium,” laughed Doonan, who was actually pushing for vultures to be part of the fete. As for Theyskens, Doonan was gushing over a Marie Antoinette- style made of buckram with a 20-foot- wide the designer made expressly for the store’s holiday windows. At Bergdorf Goodman, Alex Kramer, Allison Sarofim, Ivanka Trump, Emilia Fanjul Pfeifler and Eleanor Ylvisaker hosted cocktails for designer Alberta Ferretti. They later repaired to Country Eleanor for dinner, where they were joined by Patricia Ylvisaker Clarkson, who will present Ferretti with an award at Thursday’s ceremonies, and others. “Right off the rack and look at how it fits,” said the actress, gesturing at her flowing green dress.

The designer was just in from Los Angeles, where ZACK SECKLER MCMULLAN; BARNEYS BY PATRICK RUSS BY she spent last week with the likes of Reese Witherspoon, and had a dinner at Mr. Chow. It was the New York chicks, however, who truly won her over. “People here Lisa Emilia Fanjul are more relaxed, friendlier, interesting,” she said. “I Airan Pfeifler and feel more comfortable here.” So much so, that she’s Shoshanna Gruss Maureen Chiquet willing to help those women bemoaning the lack of and Coco Kopelman available bachelors.“I should import men instead of at the Chanel lunch. clothes!” she quipped.

The second floor of Barneys transformed Olivier Theyskens Amanda Brooks intointo aa lounge.lounge. Victoria Traina and Julie Gilhart KRAMER, FERRETTI, YLVISAKER AND CLARKSON PHOTOS BY KEITH SMITH; CHIQUET AND KOPELMAN BY JIMI CELESTE/PMS; FANJUL PFEIFLER AND G JIMI CELESTE/PMS; FANJUL BY KEITH SMITH; CHIQUET AND KOPELMAN AND CLARKSON PHOTOS BY FERRETTI, YLVISAKER KRAMER, WWD & VALENTINO

BRAVO VALENTINO!

CONGRATULATIONS ON THE FASHION GROUP INTERNATIONAL SUPERSTAR AWARD

FROM YOUR FRIENDS AT VALENTINO USA

. 6 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2005 That ’70s Show LOS ANGELES — Denim vests and “Charlie’s Angels”-inspired jumpsuits make their comeback this season as Seventies nostalgia continues.

One Teaspoon’s top and denim jeans,jeans, bothboth inin cotton; Tart’s ribbed cotton tank top. Noir bracelets; Bare .

OP’s cotton ; Switch Miss Sixty’s cotton eyelet top; USA’s cotton denim jeans. Frankie B.’s cotton denim vest; Miss Sixty beaded ; Bella Dahl’s cotton and spandex Naturalizer . denim jeans. Noir bangles. WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2005 7 WWD.COM ▲ Levi’s polyester and cotton denim vest and ; Sue Wong’s crocheted silk bolero; Mimo’s silk chiffon cami; Park Vogel’s cotton tank top. Goorin Bros. hat; Ron Dotson necklace and brooch; Noir bangles.

Wrangler’s cotton shirt; Fornarina’s cotton and elastane denim . Beth Frank ; George belt. AARON LIGHT/CELESTINE; MAKEUP BY ANNIE ING/CELESTINE; FASHION ASSISTANT: SANDI VAN DUYNE; STYLED BY MELISSA MAGSAYSAY DUYNE; STYLED BY SANDI VAN ASSISTANT: ANNIE ING/CELESTINE; FASHION AARON LIGHT/CELESTINE; MAKEUP BY

Jainesse’s cotton and lycra denim jumpsuit. Beth Frank sunglasses; Gigi in Style necklace. PHOTOGRAPHED BY JEREMY GOLDBERG AT KENNETH HAHN STATE RECREATION AREA, LOS ANGELES; MODEL: MARINA MOLDOVAN/L.A. MODELS; HAIR BY ANGELES; MODEL: MARINA MOLDOVAN/L.A. AREA, LOS RECREATION KENNETH HAHN STATE JEREMY GOLDBERG AT BY PHOTOGRAPHED 8 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2005 WWD.COM Fash ion Group’s All-Star Lineup NEW YORK — Tonight, the Fashion Group International will celebrate luminaries from the design community. Here, a look at the fashion designers — Valentino, Olivier Theyskens, Alberta Ferretti and Ralph Rucci — being honored.

nTuesday morning, Valentino traveled downtown to the Bowery to make a ochas designer Olivier Theyskens has always been cameo appearance in a movie. But, Valentino being Valentino, it was natu- focused on making an emotional impact since he O rally alongside one of Hollywood’s greatest actresses, Meryl Streep, and the Rtook the artistic reins in 2003. movie was “The Devil Wears Prada.” Take his spring 2006 collection, which won raves In the scene, the designer, who hasn’t read the book, received Streep backstage after from retailers and editors for its simpler, more struc- his show. In more than 10 takes, he uttered, “Miranda, Miranda” (after the lead role tured styles compared with his previous efforts. ZACK SECKLER PHOTO BY Miranda Priestly), then asked the fictional magazine editor what she thought of the show. “I was looking to show something more simple,” he “I was so honored to be on the screen with a lady who was nominated for the said. “It was not the minimalism of the Nineties, Oscar 13 times,” Valentino said, sitting in his Manhattan apartment Tuesday after- where you wanted to have no references. With refer- noon. “I met Ms. Streep years ago in Los Angeles. She is a wonderful lady — so intel- ences, you get emotions and a feeling.” ligent and cultivated. She is a great, great, great artist, a sensational actress.” The collection moved from evening , which Tonight, Streep will return the honor when she presents Valentino with the he has mastered since taking over at Rochas, to day Superstar award at the Fashion Group International’s Night of Stars. suits and romantic . It was inspired by Monet’s “I am very happy,” Valentino, 73, said of the award. “I have been in this industry Twenties paintings of water lilies. for many decades. I love America. It’s always fantastic when people still appreciate “It was the beginning of an emotional abstraction,” your work. It gives me the kick to go on and do my best.” he said of this point in Monet’s life. “All his life, he was Unlike many of his peers, he’s managed to achieve quite a rare feat in more than four gray…monotonous. To arrive at a moment of magic and decades: He consistently pleases long-term clients while constantly attracting new ones. abstraction…that inspired me. I wanted this to be an “I try always to do the best I can and to make homage to it with the last dresses of printed lace.” Valentino women look the best as possible,” Valentino said. When he burst onto the Paris scene with his namesake col- If there was one gripe he has developed over lection in 1998, he made a mark with his gothic vision. Since the years, it’s how writers have branded him a putting his own collection on hold, he has tempered the Goth a Olivier designer just for the Ladies who Lunch and the little, but hasn’t given up on the wistful romantic. Theyskens red-carpet set. “It’s never just for people who Theyskens, 28, always loved to sew, watching his mother at the lunch at La Grenouille,” he said. sewing machine from a young age. He attended Brussels’ fashion Valentino, who comes to New York about school La Cambre, but quit before completion to devote more twice a year, keeps an apartment facing Central time to making clothes. He showed in Paris for the first time for Park, which, while opulent, has a comfortable, fall 1998, and was instantly noticed by Madonna, who decided to home-like feel with contemporary and classic wear one of his to the Academy Awards even before any of his art and antiques, and a manservant with model pieces were available in stores. looks on hand. When he arrived at Rochas, the house didn’t really have an apparel Valentino prefers to keep a low profile here, vocabulary, which gave him carte blanche to develop a new language. dining privately with friends and going to the the- “When I heard the name Rochas for the first time, it was neutral,” Theyskens ater. For instance, this Halloween, he plans to said. “You couldn’t give a precise image.…We started from zero, building a design stay in and eat “a lot of pumpkin.” team and a structure. It’s also a great project in artistic terms. I could give an input “I love being with my friends, and having the and vision that was totally mine.” most normal life in the world,” he said. “I love Since then, he said he has been working diligently to create “a Rochas touch.” food, I love to speak about everything. I am not “Now, there is a delicacy. It’s very refined, but it’s also humble. It’s not glossy, a social butterfly.” sparkling. It’s femininity, taste and an edginess. His business certainly keeps him on his toes. “I think a lot about women,” Theyskens added. “I am always in search of some- Valentino just opened boutiques in Berlin and thing. I am looking for balance.” PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA PHOTO BY Munich. Next spring, he will open a store in St. Theyskens has been taking baby steps to develop an image for the house. He Petersburg, one of his favorite cities. “I love the ballet, so I always go to the wants to make sure that brand extensions make sense before taking the plunge. Mariinsky Theatre,” he said. “I would like to design for it.” Tonight’s star honoree award has a particular meaning for him. “America is our Valentino downplayed recent reports of his imminent retirement. “I am happy; I first market. It has been supportive from the beginning, and I feel understood by go on and have to go on,” he said. “I love this work so much, I couldn’t abandon it.” Americans,” he said. — Marc Karimzadeh — M.K.

he floor-length dress of her own design that Alberta Ferretti plans to wear eadying for a move to SoHo here, the Ralph Rucci showroom was strewn with tonight to pick up her star honoree award is the same style that Angelina bubble-wrapped furniture and cellophane-covered rolling racks this week. But T Jolie wore to the Worldwide Orphans Foundation dinner Monday night. The R in the serenity of his office, the designer reflected about his business and what designer admitted her physique can’t compete with that of the lithesome actress, lies ahead. but as someone who has been self-employed for 25 years plus — no small feat for a First up, relocating his 50-person company to an airy, Ralph designer — Ferretti has pulled off her share of incarnations. gallery-like, 15,000-square-foot space at 536 Broadway, Rucci Next month she will open a freestanding store in the United Arab Emirates, and where he hopes employees will share “a sense of another is being planned for Moscow. Earlier this week, Steven Klein shot an “extreme- growth, potential and possibility.” Four three-paneled ly feminine and sensual” Ferretti campaign, she said during an interview Tuesday. screens carrying images of falcons will greet visitors. Eyewear and a perfume are in the works, but like much of what Ferretti does, she is tak- They reflect how the designer, an artist at heart, is ing her time, instead of rushing into another category for the ready to take flight. sake of the brand’s exposure. This fall she introduced Prêt à “I’ve been on this street for 25 years,’’ Rucci said. “I Couture, a capsule collection aimed at women who want can’t wait to run, run. I need to have a fresh start. I’ll “innovative designs that have not been photographed in the leave the Garment Center and everything it represents. past, which is especially important today,” Ferretti said. Since I’ve done this with my life, I’ve learned that this Clearly, she is comfortable breaking from convention. classic route doesn’t have to be the route.” The designer skipped the sometimes dreary and thankless Rucci’s rise has been anything but traditional; he route of working for a more established house before set- has dealt with design, operations and even made his ting out on her own. In the late Seventies, she opened a own prints, without the safety net of business part- boutique in her hometown of Cattolica, Italy, and began ners. In 2002, he became the first American-born selling her signature collection there a few years later. designer since Mainbocher to show couture as part of the Chambre Syndicale Eventually, the success of her own collection eclipsed the in Paris. Rucci continues to show his ready-to-wear collection as part of 7th on boutique’s and a designer label was born. Peering back at Sixth. those days, Ferretti said, “Probably the most beautiful Alberta Ferretti The first major exhibition of his work will be staged next month at Kent thing was the rapport I had with my customers. Maybe State University’s museum in Kent, Ohio, and Rucci will take home a Hall of that’s one of the reasons I enjoy trunk shows and continue to do them.” Fame award from the university’s fashion school. He also is considering a fra- While many designers toe the party line about trunk shows, Ferretti sounds as grance, men’s wear and home. though she actually means it. Another point of difference with many competitors is And Rucci is sorting out the final details of a forthcoming show of his paint- how she prefers to keep a low profile. That said, tonight’s honor was not something ings in a SoHo gallery. He said he was “astounded” by the number of his paint- the effervescent mother of two adult sons anticipated. “I work for the joy of design- ings sold at a San Francisco exhibition in March. ing clothing and for the love of my work without expecting to be recognized in this “I don’t take any collection or season for granted,’’ he said. “I don’t presume any- fashion. To me, selling clothes and having a collection that customers are content- thing. With all of my projects, I try to solve a problem or show a theme within. My ed in buying is the prize. This is a much bigger prize,” she said. “I’m very severe work has a lot to do with thought besides function. My work in fashion has a great with myself. I always have to give more, more, more without thinking of receiving.” deal to do with research. I never stopped studying.” — Rosemary Feitelberg — R.F. PHOTOS BY DAVID TURNER DAVID PHOTOS BY WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2005 9 WWD.COM Denim Report LTB Gets in Gear for European Push By Courtney Colavita

ROME — Following its recent opening here on the bustling Via del Corso thoroughfare, LTB by Littlebig is set to roll out 35 stores across Europe in the next three years. The Turkish jeans manufacturer opened its first Italian store ear- lier this fall on one of Rome’s most trafficked streets, where Energie, Replay and Diesel, as well as Zara and Italian department store Rinascente have units. Although Littlebig’s parent company, CAK Tekstil, has been pro- ducing denim for more than 50 years, the label is a newcomer to the Italian market. “We have a lot of customers coming in and just asking us about the name and where it comes from,” said Leyla Sadiker, manager of the Rome store. The two-level, 1,200-square-foot store sells Littlebig’s women’s and men’s collections. Jeans range from 110 euros, or $133, to 130 euros, or $157. Cropped wool, angora and nylon cardigans retail for 39.95 euros, or $47.95. Cotton polos that feature Littlebig’s crab insignia sell for 34.95 euros, or $41.95. All figures are converted at current exchange rates. The collection is produced in Littlebig’s factory at its Istanbul headquarters which, according to Barbara Gay of Littlebig’s design team, allows for quick reassortment of merchandise. “We’re able to anticipate what the market wants and continually deliver flash collections to meet those needs,” said Gay. For Littlebig, Rome is just the start of an aggressive rollout plan to bolster its name recognition. “Our stores are our windows to reach out to our customers,” Asken Erald, Littlebig’s European managing director, said in a phone interview from the company’s European distribution center in Rotterdam, Netherlands. SAKIS LALASPHOTOS BY In the past year, Littlebig has opened stores in Amsterdam; Bucharest, Romania; Cologne, Germany, and Moscow. Erald said units in Paris, Barcelona, Munich and London are expected to open in the next year. All stores are company owned and Erald said Littlebig’s smaller stores are expected to do annual sales of between 1.2 million euros, or $1.4 million, to 1.5 million euros, or $1.8 million. Larger boutiques, such as the one set to open on the Champs-Elysée next year, should generate annual revenues of 2.2 million euros, or $2.6 million. Erald said Littlebig’s European wholesale business should reach 128 million euros, or $153.6 million, in revenue this year, adding that Germany and the Benelux countries and Scandinavia are its top markets. While it is pursuing traditional advertising venues, Erald said Littlebig also was involved in various reality shows and was set to LTB by Littlebig’s first Italian store in Rome. sponsor one in Germany next year. LTB by Littlebig’s first Italian store in Rome. Jet Lag Sets Its Sights on Women for Spring U.S. Design Group Targets By Rusty Williamson Juniors Moderate Channel DALLAS — Jet Lag, a Berlin-based men’s premi- um denim brand, is looking to attract fashion- NEW YORK — U.S. Design Group is looking to capture a savvy women willing to pay for premium denim piece of the moderate junior denim market with Z Co., with a new line that will hit stores this spring. a new line launched during Los Angeles market week. The women’s denim line debuted in August at Charles Jebara, a principal of U.S. Design, the Fashion Industry Gallery wholesale market which makes Request Jeans in the U.S., conceded here, featuring ripped, distressed, resin-washed, there is no shortage of companies manufacturing patchwork and low- and mid-rise 12-oz. denim denim at moderate price points. jeans. Gianpiero Di Bitonto, vice president of “I don’t think it’s underserved,” Jebara said. sales, said all Jet Lag jeans are produced in Italy. “We’re trying to enhance this category by offering Founder and designer Yosi Cohen applies better quality, a new brand and something that is a less-is-more philosophy to the line, offering tastefully styled and designed.” only four women’s styles in two or three wash- Work on the line began six to eight months ago, es for the spring collection. Jebara said. The inaugural collection features 10 Dallas-based TriColor International holds styles of denim bottoms available in six washes, the exclusive distribution rights for North wholesaling for $12 to $17. America. With wholesale prices ranging Jebara said the line has received a strong re- between $79 and $99, U.S. sales are projected sponse from small independent retailers interest- to hit $3 million this year. The introduction of ed in cleaner looks, although there is still opportu- the women’s collection is expected to bump nity for embellished styles. sales up to $7 million in 2006. “If you have the right type of embellishment, you “Jet Lag already has an incredible following can hit a home run,” Jebara said. “Anything embel- in Europe, especially in Germany where the lished with stone, sequins or studs has done well.” company is based, Russia, Austria, Poland and Although the company has spoken with several Denmark, and we sell to over 300 specialty large retail chains about picking up the line, store accounts in the U.S. now with men’s. We Jebara isn’t interested in flooding the market. expect many of those stores to pick up the “I would prefer to go deep with only a couple of women’s line, too,” said Di Bitonto. “We’re sell- different retailers to maintain exclusivity,” he said. ing at least 2,000 pairs of denim jeans a day in The firm plans to expand the collection to in- Europe and will generate about 50 million clude culottes, capris and crops featuring special euros [$60 million] in 2005 in Germany alone.” washes and back-pocket designs. Cropped , Looks from In addition to Fashion Industry Gallery in vests and boleros, as well as knit , are also JetJet Lag’sLag’s newnew Dallas, Jet Lag wholesales at markets in Los slated for introduction. This portion of the line will women’s Angeles, Chicago and Atlanta, and plans to retail for $38 to $52, with plus sizes and a young collection. open a New York showroom in 2006. men’s line bowing next fall. 10 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2005 WWD.COM Juicy Couture Makes Good on Its Name

By Lauren DeCarlo Bloomingdale’s said, “Bloomingdale’s is very excited about the new Couture Couture line and will definitely be carrying it next season. The Couture Couture collection NEW YORK — After almost nine years, Juicy Couture is living up to its name. stays true to Pam and Gela’s design style but is more sophisticated with more luxe The California-based — and inspired — contemporary brand in spring will launch fabrics.” Couture Couture, a 20-piece designer collection featuring intricately crafted pieces “Most lines start at the top and go down,” Nash-Taylor said. such as a jeweled dress with organza underskirt and a chantilly lace strapless dress. “We did the opposite,’’ said Skaist-Levy, picking up the thought. “Everyone wants The average retail price for the Couture Couture collection is $680, compared with to do casual, but we wanted to go dressier.” Juicy Couture’s average retail price of $180. Skaist-Levy and Nash-Taylor are admittedly obsessed with fashion and have been Co-founders and co-designers, Pamela Skaist-Levy and Gela Nash-Taylor thought since they met in 1988 and began designing the maternity wear line under the Travis the timing was right to introduce an upscale, highly edited collection. From a design Jeans label as a solution to Nash-Taylor’s inability to find stylish maternity clothes standpoint, they were ready to take their craft to the next level. when she was pregnant with her first child. “We’re not a one-trick As they see it, Couture pony,’’ Skaist-Levy said. “Our Couture is a necessity background is in design. We because without it the brand just hit with the tracksuit.” isn’t reflective of them, which Couture Couture is a contradicts the premise on long way from the candy- the which the company was built. colored Juicy Couture “Gela and I go to so many tracksuit. In addition to events now and we love — the jeweled and lace beat and wear — other designers, dresses, the collection but we wanted to wear our includes other notable pieces own collection,” Skaist-Levy such as a pleated silk said. “Juicy can only take you , a linen and so far.” steel silver and a trench. Until now, that is. The Wholesale prices range from pair want women to look to $65 for a silk viscose tank to their brand for evening $1,100 for the jewel- wear, the same way Nash- encrusted linen dress. A Taylor and Skaist-Levy had black, jewel-encrusted skirt looked to their favorite has a wholesale price of $545. designers, such as Prada, The company, a division Lanvin, Rochas and Louis of Liz Claiborne Inc., Vuitton for dressier declined to provide a occasions. Though Juicy projected wholesale volume Couture and Couture for the first year. Couture are two very Couture Couture is different collections, Nash- targeting the top specialty Taylor said the Juicy woman and department stores in Clockwise from left: Couture Couture’s is distinct and will be drawn each market for select cotton, acetate and metal suit with to both. “There’s a bit of that distribution, domestically as viscose and silk jeweled tank; viscose socialite flair with a sense of well as in Europe and Asia. and silk tank and cotton and linen humor in our clothes,” said Among them are Neiman embroidered and jeweled skirt; cotton Nash-Taylor. Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, and nylon strapless Chantilly lace gown, The time is opportune, Barneys New York, Bergdorf and tarnished and silk Nash-Taylor believes, to Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, pleated ballerina skirt. launch a designer collection. Nordstrom, Fred Segal and She said women are dressing Jeffrey in the U.S. In Asia, up more frequently and are the stores are Isetan in Japan not saving their finest dresses and Lane Crawford in Hong for just formal occasions. Kong; in Europe, Colette in After all, it was the swing Paris; Harvey Nichols, of the fashion pendulum Browns and Selfridges in which prompted the London and Luisa via Roma partners to launch Juicy in in Italy, and in the Middle 1997, when women were East, Villa Moda. seeking ultracomfy yet “The feedback we’ve stylish casualwear gotten is such that the alternatives. Women went perceived value of the from “wearing hose while collection is there,” said shopping at Nordstrom,” as Rebecca Blair, Juicy Nash-Taylor said, to Couture’s vice president wearing velour tracksuits as and general manager of much as they could. merchandise and sales. “It’s As women designers, they for a more sophisticated believe they have an and urban customer and it advantage when it comes to will hang with other designing a collection such as designer collections.” Couture Couture. “The one Blair said she envisions difference with women Couture Couture hanging in designing for women is that specialty boutiques we’re maniacally obsessed worldwide near labels such with our defects,” Nash-Taylor as Chloé, Marni and said. “We design to cover the Temperley. “We see Couture defects. Clothes on the runway Couture as a designer sometimes have bizarre

collection,” Blair said. “The JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY silhouettes. We’re real women consumer will know it’s a who have pretty average body different collection. It won’t be branded with ‘Juicy.’ The label says, ‘Couture types, and we want to design wearable clothes that don’t only look good on models.” Couture Los Angeles’.” Couture Couture for spring is just one of the launches for the brand this year. A full Ron Herman will carry the collection at its Beverly Hills location and Fred Segal line of and sunglasses will also break in spring. The footwear, which has will have the line upstairs in its Melrose Avenue store in Los Angeles, where the been licensed to Schwartz & Benjamin, includes an array from gladiator sandals to collection will share the floor with labels such as Chloé and Marc Jacobs. bejeweled stilettos and even cowboy . The sunglasses have been licensed to “I thought it was done really beautifully and executed very well,” said John Safilo. The wholesale price range of is between $17 for flip-flops to $300 for Eshaya, creative director and vice president of women’s wear for Ron Herman/Fred cowboy boots; sunglasses wholesale for $92.50 to $130. A fragrance is expected to Segal. “You look at the pieces themselves and see them other than being Juicy. I follow late next year. Also in 2006, Skaist-Levy and Nash-Taylor hope to open 15 to 17 looked at the clothes solely on their own merit. I would have bought that dress from freestanding Juicy Couture boutiques globally, three in Europe. anyone,” he said, referencing the jewel-encrusted dress. Juicy Couture on Nov. 8 will receive the Ace Award for Accessory Brand Launch. “[Pam and Gela] have amazing taste. Young Hollywood girls who buy stuff like “It’s hard to imagine people thinking we couldn’t do what we wanted to do,” Nash- Chloé from us will buy this collection,” he said. Taylor said. “We’re willing to work hard. We are obsessed with fashion. When you love Frank Doroff, senior executive vice president of women’s ready-to-wear at everything you’re doing, it opens a lot of doors.” WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2005 11 WWD.COM Active LifestyleX Penguin Retail Heating Up NEW YORK — The fast-growing retro sportswear label Original Penguin by Penguin is Munsingwear is stepping up the pace in retail. preparing for a The brand, a division of Perry Ellis International, has stores opening soon in retail rollout. Miami and Newport Beach, Calif., and is considering markets around the country for Here, inside the more locations. It now has one store in Manhattan. Manhattan store. “We think we could have 20 to 30 stores in the next five years,” said Chris Kolbe, president of Penguin. “We have discovered that stores are the best platform for us to roll out our brand to the end consumer and it gives us optimal control over the cus- tomer experience.” The company has wholesale sales of about $5 million. Kolbe said retail may even- tually generate as much as $50 million to $60 million in sales, and wholesale could also grow to that level. The 2,400-square-foot Miami store is to open in December in an Art Deco building on Lincoln Road, a retail hot spot. The decor will be slightly different from the New York unit, and will have a retro feel with vintage family photos and mid-20th-century American and Danish furnishings. The Newport Beach store is slated to open at the Fashion Mall in February. “Each store will be tailored to the local aesthetic,” Kolbe said, noting that Penguin is scouting locales and is looking primarily at street locations, not malls. “Our stores are great from a brand-building standpoint, but we want them to be profitable, as well,” he said. “We feel we have the brand and the background to be successful at retail, but we don’t want to be too hasty rolling out stores. We don’t want to have a chain-store effect.” Kolbe has retail experience, having worked at J. Crew and Urban Outfitters before joining Penguin. The company also has tapped Scott Link, a former senior vice president sportswear, the company makes swimwear and denim, and also has some licensed at Polo Ralph Lauren Corp., as vice president of retail to oversee its expansion. The categories such as eyewear and children’s apparel. stores will compete with chains such as J. Crew and Banana Republic, although Penguin’s Women’s accounts for about one-third of the business, although at retail it gener- products are more quirky, with a modern take on vintage-inspired prints and styles. ates about 50 percent of revenue. Penguin products are primarily sold at specialty Penguin, which targets women and men between the ages of 25 and 40, relaunched stores and boutiques. Kolbe said in coming seasons, the company will offer more up- about two years ago, primarily as a men’s brand. This past spring marked its first full- scale and tailored products for women. scale introduction into women’s after testing items for two seasons. In addition to — Melanie Kletter

SWIM NEWS: Carson, Calif.-based swimwear company Beach Patrol Inc. has named Michelle Mohlere SIDELINES executive vice president of merchandising. She replaces Michelle Pisano, who left the company. Mohlere had been vice president of women’s and girl’s swimwear at Warnaco Swimwear. Beach Patrol makes swimwear under brands that include Jag, Baja Blue, Esprit Beach and Split. Some of Mohlere’s responsibilities at Warnaco have been taken over by Laurie Etheridge, who was named vice president of women’s merchandising at Speedo North America, a division of Warnaco. Etheridge spent 10 years at Levi Strauss & Co., most recently as director of merchandising for Levi’s juniors division.

MAILLOT BUYS IN TO SHAN: Canadian swimwear giant Maillot Baltex has acquired a They stake in Shan, a Montreal-based designer swim brand. Are Maillot, which has sales of about $100 million, has also acquired the license for ® the S by Shan brand, a line lower in price than the core Shan Wearing offerings. Maillot president and chief executive officer François Demers declined to reveal how much of a stake Maillot has acquired, but said it is a “significant development” for his company, which is best known for midtier swim brands such as Body I.D. and Baltex.

BURTON REVS UP: Ducati is hitting the slopes. Burton Snowboards has signed a deal with the Italian motorcycle company to produce a line of snowboards and matching bindings for this winter season, hitting stores in November.

Leggings101 Terms of the deal were not disclosed. NEW YORK — Like many fashion trends from the Eighties, Burton also said it has signed a deal to sponsor the are having a revival this fall, especially among the Chinese national snowboard team, and has launched a Web college crowd. This time around, young women are giving site at series13.com where shoppers can custom-design their them a personal spin, often by pairing bright-colored leggings own snowboards with denim or leather . A few are even daring to wear them solo with a pair of heels or slouchy boots. Here, some CAPEZIO’S NEXT MOVE: Dance company Capezio is broadening Ducati snowboards looks from campuses around town. its offerings with a new line called The Women’s Collection by produced by Capezio. The line includes tops and bottoms designed for Burton are coming active, mature women who want looser-fitting clothes, said soon to the slopes. Deborah Gibbs, Capezio’s director of business A look from development. The “This collection can be worn before, Women’s during and after many types of physical Collection activity,” she said. “Not everyone can fit into by Capezio. hard-body gym clothes.” Fabrics include cotton and spandex blends, and styles have additional sizes and are designed to add comfort around the stomach and hips without appearing too baggy, she noted. The line comes in bold, bright colors such as red, orange and green. The initial collection includes about 20 items and will hit stores in February. Retail prices range from about $24 to $50, and Gibbs said the company is targeting midtier department stores for the initial rollout. She declined to give a sales projection for the line. PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN; COMPILED BY NIA SHEPHERD ERICKSEN; COMPILED BY KYLE PHOTOS BY 12 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2005 WWD.COM Lauder Pursues Cost Savings Restructuring Costs Continued from page one cent of their total sales. Lauder acknowledged the pro- quarter ended Sept. 30 fell 35.4 percent to $61.8 million, or gram has declined in terms of its return on investment Hurt Jones 3Q Net 28 cents a diluted earnings per common share, from $95.7 but said it is still more cost effective than the alterna- million, or 41 cents a share, in the same period last year. tives, such as sampling and in-store events. By Vicki M. Young Sales in the first quarter rose 0.5 per- Lauder said that both Clinique and cent to $1.5 billion from $1.49 billion, Estée Lauder are redesigning and repro- NEW YORK — Third-quarter results at Jones while the company’s gross margin rate fell BEAUTY BEAT moting their gifts to recoup some of the Apparel Group were hurt by restructuring slightly to 71.98 percent in the quarter lost sales. charges, but it didn’t appear to have any major from 72.64 percent in the prior year. Both Lauder said the company’s full slate of implications as the company affirmed its expecta- sales and earnings came in below Wall product launches would drive growth in tions for fiscal year 2005. Street’s expectations. fiscal 2006, citing strong retail buyer de- For the three months ended Oct. 1, income fell “While we’re faced with both internal mand for Tom Ford’s Estée Lauder col- by 19.8 percent to $76.8 million, or 65 cents a dilut- and external challenges, we are quickly lection and BeautyBank’s first full- ed share, from $95.8 million, or 77 cents, in the taking aggressive action,” said William fledged holiday program at Kohl’s. same year-ago quarter. Excluding the impact from Lauder, president and chief executive Other hotly anticipated initiatives one-time costs in connection with a strategic review officer of the Estée Lauder Cos., refer- from the Estée Lauder Cos. include the of operations, earnings per share were 76 cents in ring to the company’s strategy to in- fragrance Unforgivable by Sean John, the current quarter. crease profitability. due out at Saks Fifth Avenue in Total revenues were up 2.4 percent to $1.33 bil- Making good on that commitment, the December; the 10th anniversary ad cam- lion from $1.3 billion, on a 2.3 percent gain in sales company decided to sell Stila, a makeup paign for Pleasures featuring Gwyneth to $1.31 billion from $1.28 billion and on licensing artist brand it acquired in 1999. While Paltrow, and the spring launch of the income. Wholesale better apparel sales declined the company would not comment on the Missoni fragrance. 8.9 percent to $396.7 million, while wholesale mod- size of the cosmetics brand, latest indus- During the quarter, on a reported erate apparel fell 3.2 percent to $337.8 million. As try sources’ estimates put Stila at $35 Williamilliam basis, skin care sales were flat at $523.4 for footwear and accessories, wholesale sales million to $45 million in U.S. retail sales. Lauder million, while makeup sales increased 3 dipped 1.8 percent to $262.2 million. Sales at high- “Stila has been part of the family for percent to $604.9 million and sales of end chain Barneys New York rose 12.1 percent, the last seven years,” Lauder told WWD. “We feel that hair care products climbed 12 percent to $70.4 million. while sales from company-owned footwear and we’ve given it enough time to make a go of it,” he said, Despite successes such as DKNY Be Delicious and True ready-to-wear stores decreased by 2.9 percent. adding that ultimately Stila didn’t prove as strategically Star Men from Tommy Hilfiger, fragrance sales de- Revenues for 2005 are forecast in the $5 billion important as its fellow makeup artist brands MAC creased 6 percent to $293.2 million. to $5.1 billion range, and projected earnings per Cosmetics and Bobbi Brown. By region, sales in Europe, the Middle East and Africa share, excluding restructuring charges, are expect- During a call with analysts in August, Lauder hinted at decreased 1 percent, while Asia-Pacific jumped 5 per- ed to equal or exceed $2.39, the company said. the possible sale of low performers, referring to the cost- cent. Sales in the Americas were flat at $881 million. Peter Boneparth, president and chief execu- saving measure as “brand optimization.” When asked William Schmitz, research analyst for Deutsche Bank, tive officer, said during the investor conference Wednesday if there are other brands that might be suited described the company’s new earnings guidance as aggres- call that some of the company’s brands, such as for divestiture, he responded, “It’s a continual process.” sive, given the effects of the Federated-May merger. Gloria Vanderbilt, did well. The firm is in talks with potential buyers of Stila and ex- Lowering the price targets, though, is only one step. Schmitz “We were quite pleased with the financial per- pects to complete the sale by the end of its fiscal year. wrote that “options, retail consolidation and potential re- formance of our wholesale better apparel segment Industry analyst Allan Mottus speculated that Limited structuring charges complicate the numbers, but what is in particular. Gloria Vanderbilt certainly has been Brands could be an interested party, as its Bath & Body clear is that uncertain macroenvironment and brand turn- an outperformer and Barneys New York [has] ex- Works division continues to pursue a multi-branded strategy. around begun too late are not just short-term hiccups.…We ceeded prior year’s period sales and operating The company said it’s recording Stila as a discontin- don’t see a quick or easy solution to current problems, profits,” the ceo said. ued operation. As a result, discontinued operations (net which are both macro and company-specific in nature.” The ceo said the Jones Collection had shown of tax) showed a loss of $3.3 million in the first quarter, Merrill Lynch analysts Christopher Ferrara and Olivia sales increases over the prior year, and the Nine which compares with $700,000 in the same period last Tong downgraded shares of Estée Lauder Cos. to “neu- West apparel brand was performing well and had year. Including that loss, net earnings came in 36.5 per- tral” from “buy.” increased its store counts. In addition, while com- cent lower at $58.5 million in the most recent quarter, “The change is based on sales growth concerns across petitors may be talking about the decline in their which compares with $95 million last year. both the U.S. and Europe and the immediate catalyst to the core denim business, Boneparth said the misses’ The company’s forecast for 2006 has earnings from con- downgrade is the detail surrounding [Estée Lauder’s] miss moderate denim business, in which Gloria tinuing operations pegged at $1.87 to $1.94 per share. This of our already lower sales and EPS estimates for [the first Vanderbilt competes, has not declined at all. includes a 22-cent-per-share charge relating to expensing quarter],” the analysts said in their report. “We had previ- Boneparth said the company’s brands have a stock options. It also takes into account the negative impact ously been willing to ride out near-term choppiness with a long-term ability to grow strategically with of the merger between Federated Department Stores and view of improvement in [the second half of 2006]. At this Federated Department Stores, based on talks May Department Stores. Sales for the first half are seen point, we are no longer convinced that things will improve with the retailer, as it begins evaluating its com- growing around 4 percent, at a constant currency rate. meaningfully. This, combined with longer-term distribution bined business following the merger with May The company anticipates Federated will accelerate channel issues, drives our move.” Department Stores. the pace of its planned store closures, shuttering more Shares of Estée Lauder Cos. dropped 7.7 percent “We have been informed by Federated that than half of the 82 doors slated to close by early next year. Wednesday to $30.71 on the New York Stock Exchange. many of the May company stores are underpene- Lauder said the closures will affect full-year sales as Lauder remains optimistic about the company’s position: trated” in certain brands such as Nine West, the company copes with inventory returns and lost sales. “We have confidence in the fundamentals given what our Jones and Anne Klein, he said. “The good news is that we should get approximately half visibility is today over the long-term, and what we see as op- Boneparth said while part of 2006 will be a bit of the pain out of the way and feel less of a pinch in fiscal portunities around the world in our key categories,” he said. choppy due to merger-related store closings, by the 2007,” the ceo added. “We have undertaken some serious belt-tightening by end of 2006 and going into 2007, Jones expects its Partially offsetting the Federated impact is the bur- aggressively identifying projects and costs that do not criti- Federated business to improve. geoning popularity of high-end retailers, the Estée cally need to take place this fiscal year,” Lauder explained, Shares of Jones climbed $1.40 to close at $28.24 Lauder Cos. expansion with Kohl’s and the growth of its adding that by supporting fewer programs, the impact will in trading Wednesday on the New York Stock Ex- Internet businesses. be greater. The company expects its efforts to deliver be- change. Nearly 3 million shares exchanged hands This fall, the company also experienced weakness tween $40 million to $45 million in incremental savings. compared with an average trading volume of with its gift-with-purchase program, a staple of the Estée — With contributions from Amy S. Choi 739,111 shares. Lauder and Clinique brands, given it accounts for 35 per- and Arthur Zaczkiewicz

St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital. Rennie spent a repair shop at lightning speed. Mallis said she doesn’t see her portion of the night talking to Minnie Driver, who is currently espadrille drama as any kind of evil omen about the recent Fashion Scoops in New York recording another album. Others who braved the acquisition. And she declined to be drawn out on any future torrential rain included Zoe Saldana, Michelle Trachtenberg plans IMG might be mapping out for Australian Fashion Week. GUYS AND DOLLS: Anna Sui is getting in touch with her and Annie Parisse. “This is a very slick, professional operation,” she said. “It’s masculine side. In Paris Tuesday to meet with beauty editors, “Edie [Falco] wears Escada on the show, I don’t,” quipped not broken.” Sui revealed she’s working on her first men’s fragrance. The Discala. “Meadow is not that fashionable.” New Yorker also is getting back into men’s wear, planning a SISTER ACT: Jasmine Al Fayed is eyeing the Paris runway, small men’s department in her SoHo flagship, which is about to IF IT AIN’T BROKE…: Fern Mallis had no choice but to call in possibly as early as next season. The 24-year-old daughter of double in size. The enlarged shop, reopening next month, also reinforcements in Melbourne Wednesday when her espadrille Harrods owner Mohamed Al Fayed — and big sister of soon- will stock a selection of vintage, she added. ribbon snapped en route out of the first show of the first to-be Vogue intern Camilla — also has been invited to show Mercedes Australian Fashion Week to take place under IMG’s in the contemporary tent in New York next year. Jasmine ESCADA’S TV MOMENT: Escada’s spring 2006 collection management. These were no Christian Louboutin espadrilles, used Harrods as a launchpad for her Jasmine Di Milo label in presentation on Monday night attracted so many TV and movie but, said Mallis, “plenty cheap” shoes that she purchased across 2003 and she just started wholesaling, too. In fact, she actors that one almost expected Ellen DeGeneres to jump out the street from Bryant Park on Sixth Avenue toward the end of picked up 28 new accounts for spring 2006 by exhibiting at from backstage and hand out some Emmys just for the joy of the New York shows when Mallis’ feet were killing her after Paris’s recent 19Vendome trade show and during L.A. the occasion. having worn good shoes all week. Nor did she remain footloose in Fashion Week. Al Fayed studied at the London College of The event was hosted by Escada design director Brian Melbourne for too long. After hobbling downstairs to a courtesy Fashion before joining the ranks of Harrods buyers at Rennie and “The Sopranos” star Jamie-Lynn Discala to benefit bar, her new Australian colleagues dispatched the item to a international runway shows. jay h baker retailing initiative

the wharton school of the university of pennsylvania honors the tremendous generosity of Patty and Jay H. Baker. Today, we join the retail and apparel community in celebrating the renaming of the Fashion Institute of Technology’s School of Business and Technology, to the Patty and Jay H. Baker School of Business and Technology. This tribute is a testament to the Bakers’ passion for education and their dedication to help develop the future leaders of the retail and apparel industries. thank you patty and jay.

STEPHEN J. HOCH PATRICK T. HARKER WILLIAM S. CODY Patty and Jay H. Baker Professor of Marketing Dean Managing Director Faculty Director, Jay H. Baker Retailing Initiative Jay H. Baker Retailing Initiative 14 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2005 WWD.COM

The Dana Buchman shop. Lauren by Ralph Lauren retains itsits charactercharacter atat TheThe NewNew View.View.

Lilly Pulitzer opened its first hard shop in a department store in The New View. PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE Bloomingdale’s New View to Energize Bridge By David Moin Fla., already have installed departments for The New View. By September 2006, bridge areas in units in the King of Prussia, Pa., Short Hills, N.J., and White Plains, NEW YORK — With a flurry of designer shop openings, Bloomingdale’s flagship here N.Y., will be converted to The New View. Eventually, all Bloomingdale’s stores will has completed the overhaul of its bridge floor, which has been renamed The New transform their bridge areas. View and is the prototype for the chain. Bloomingdale’s is also planning four new stores, in San Francisco, Costa Mesa and It’s a spacious environment, marked by shallow, easy-to-navigate designer shops San Diego, Calif., and in Chestnut Hill, Mass. All will include New Views. and a more luxurious ambience than standard bridge departments. The ceiling has In each shop, designers incorporate their signature decorative touches, but the been raised one and a half feet, and there are three wide aisles — instead of the pre- areas are framed in either black glass or black wood, and are generally about four fix- vious single central aisle — providing unobstructed views from the Lexington Avenue tures deep. to Third Avenue sides of the store. “Generally, I don’t like [shops] to be more than 20 to 21 feet deep,” said Shan The enlarged fitting rooms seem like sitting rooms or lounges, and the cream DiNapoli, vice president of store design. “When they get deeper than that, they be- tones, marble floors, chandeliers and inlaid carpets add to the richness. come a sea of fixtures. Twenty to 21 feet — I think that’s the perfect dimension for a This is the first time Bloomingdale’s has recreated an entire floor in one stretch. shop. It allows you to have a nice back perimeter wall, floor fixtures and customer Previously, floors were renovated piecemeal. The project, which took 40 weeks to seating. Anything deeper and it gets just full of floor fixtures.” complete, will be unveiled Thursday. The floor is also marked by the unexpected presence of some labels not typically housed “It’s a clean Bloomingdale’s point of view,” Michael Gould, chairman and chief ex- in bridge areas, including Ralph Lauren Black Label, Moschino Cheap and Chic, Burberry ecutive officer, said on a tour of the 60,000-square-foot third floor. “We can create a and Lilly Pulitzer. Dresses are housed on the floor, but that category at Bloomingdale’s has floor that contains the Bloomingdale’s DNA and let our resources have their DNA, in been trading up with additions such as Carmen Marc Valvo and Vera Wang. an environment we think is very unique.” Bloomingdale’s third floor generates about $2,000 in sales per square foot. It is the Just opened are DKNY, Lilly Pulitzer, Sutton Studio, Lauren by Ralph Lauren, second-highest-volume apparel area in the store after contemporary, which is about Dana Buchman and a petite area that includes Eileen Fisher, Ellen Tracy and Anne 50 percent more productive, according to industry sources. Total volume for Klein. The first half of the floor opened last August, with Ralph Lauren Black Label, Bloomingdale’s bridge business is an estimated $150 million, the sources said. Anne Klein New York, Christopher Fischer, cK Calvin Klein, David Meister, Eileen “The bridge business was getting old and boring,” said Frank Doroff, senior execu- Fisher, Jon, Magaschoni, St. John Sport, Weekend Max Mara and White + Warren. tive vice president and general merchandise manager of women’s ready-to-wear. But Among the 33 locations that make up the $2 billion Bloomingdale’s chain, units on to enliven and differentiate the area, “we decided to add luxury and some better North Michigan Avenue in Chicago, Century City in Los Angeles and in Boca Raton, brands, like Lauren Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein.” Wal-Mart Retooling, Streamlining Operations Holiday to Be Challenging for Retail By Katherine Bowers ing groups while running Wal-Mart International, NEW YORK — Holiday 2005 will be challenging for retailers. described the regional general manager as “be- Sales could be on “thin ice’’ because of rising fuel costs, a BOSTON — Wal-Mart has started decentralizing coming almost country-like presidents…with a lot lack of must-have fashion items, inventory buildups and aggres- and streamlining its $191 billion U.S. store division of autonomy.” sive promotions, Merrill Lynch specialty retail analyst Mark A. as the discounter seeks to improve the shopping The district manager position has been re- Friedman said Wednesday. experience with more consistent merchandise named market manager, who reports to the re- “We haven’t found the new item, or that next trend for the holi- presentation, better service and cleaner stores. gional general manager and has wage manage- day season,” Friedman said during the Retail Marketing Society’s The company has reoriented its regional divi- ment and compliance with state employment Christmas forecast at the Fashion Institute of Technology. sions, grouping stores into nine operating units. laws as primary responsibilities. He sees apparel and accessory stores increasing 3.8 percent Previously, divisions were defined by store count Market managers also will have a field-based in total sales compared with last year, same-store sales growing and sales volume “without much rhyme or reason,” support team consisting of an operations manag- 2.9 percent and earnings increasing 8.3 percent. Pat Curran, executive vice president, operations for er, a new position; a food merchandiser; an asset Raising concerns about heating bills, Friedman said the Wal-Mart U.S., said during presentations to analysts protection manager; a human resources manager, higher costs could result in families making fewer trips to at the retailer’s annual conference in Rogers, Ark. and a fashion merchandiser. There are about 300 malls. Strip centers, which tend to be more convenient, may Regional general managers, replacing an old of the latter positions, responsible for overseeing benefit, he added. regional vice president position, will gain more the apparel departments. Store managers report Among the retailers that could fare well, Friedman cited autonomy and leave the Bentonville, Ark., head- to market managers. Ross Stores and TJX, because of their strip center concentra- quarters to move into their markets. They will be “We’ve relocated teams to live in markets tion; Children’s Place, due to product improvements, fewer pro- joined by a team that includes operations support where we know we have to become much closer to motions and its takeover of 300 Disney stores, and Tiffany & Co., and financial mangers, both new roles, as well as the communities, much closer to government af- Chico’s and Coach, which all have momentum. staffers from real estate, finance, loss prevention, fairs, much closer to the customers,” Curran said. He also said self-purchasing will shift further into the post- human resources and legal compliance, positions Wal-Mart has alienated some communities holiday period, and 2004 post-Christmas sales were strong, mak- that have been traditionally based in Bentonville. with what critics see as strong-arm tactics to gain ing for tough comparisons. “Our people are spending way too much time building permits for controversial sites. In 2004, There were positives: an extra shopping day, since Christmas on nonproductive work, plain and simple,” the company lost a publicized battle to build in falls on a Sunday, providing a potentially big Saturday, and Curran said. “Too little ownership on the region- Inglewood, Calif. Earlier this year, the retailer re- velours, tracksuits, and hoodies — among last year’s al management level side of it, not being able to treated from a site in Queens, N.Y., after meeting hot items — will still be available. function outside of their silo to make decisions community resistance. In her outlook on department and general merchandise that impact the business.” Criticized for lack of operational rigor in its stores, Stacy Turnof, Merrill’s director of retail research, pre- John Menzer, vice chairman in charge of Wal- stores, Wal-Mart is focused on cleaner floors and dicted softness among lower- and moderate-price merchants, Mart U.S., said the changes will have a net result bathrooms, tidy apparel racks and faster cus- and called dollar stores “at risk.” But high-fashion stores should of requiring fewer people and reducing expens- tomer checkouts. do well, relatively, followed by department stores. “We think de- es. The company did not specify which positions In addition, executives said Wednesday they are partment stores have good fashion, the right mix and affordable were to be eliminated. actively looking for other New York metro area sites. luxury....Moderate retailers are doing a better job at knocking off “We will have a more nimble organization, one “One of our biggest mistakes last year was [trends] and have better private label penetration.” that’s very focused with high accountability,” he said. specifying we’re going to open in Queens before Carl Steidtmann, chief economist for Deloitte Touche, said “For the first time, we’re now in the process of build- getting the proper support,” said Eric Zorn, presi- developments over the last few months indicate a more chal- ing from our business plan from store level up.” dent of Wal-Mart Realty, the company’s real es- lenging Christmas; a lot of the benefits of rebuilding in hurri- Traffic has been down in U.S. stores over the tate division. “We will open in one of the bor- cane-ravaged areas are not expected to be felt until next year. last nine months. Aftertax operating profits have oughs within a reasonable amount of time.” But he added, “The holiday season is clearly becoming less im- declined as expenses related to fuel prices and Zorn said the company has 1,400 approved portant to consumers. That may reflect demographic shifts as labor costs have risen. The retailer has said it building projects in its pipeline, about 1,000 of the population ages.” stumbled scheduling shifts, adding more associ- which are Supercenters. Next year, it plans 270 to On the bright side for retail, he said consumers have a lot of ates to its sales floor than sales required. 280 new Supercenters, 160 of which will be ex- cash and the labor market is growing. Menzer, who established country-based operat- pansions or relocations of existing stores. — D.M. Access All The Day’s Fashion News Anytime, Anywhere!

WWDThe Online Home of Women’s.COM Wear Daily

WWD.COM Subscribers get the full version of the print edition online PLUS:  The ability to print the entire newspaper  Web exclusives  Access to Classifieds, Events and People  Articles categorized by industry  Search the previous 10 issues

Get one year of wwd.com for only $99. To Subscribe, go to wwd.com/subscribe 16 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2005 WWD.COM

The Paris collections for spring revealed of every sort. Abstract ideas TheWWDList were taken on, ranging from Ts displaying bold messages, to sack dresses, to streamlined, wearable suits. Web traffic during the Paris season topped 34 million page views for Style.com. Led by the popularity of Paris, Style.com’s total monthly page views for October will near 100 million for the first time in the site’s history. Chanel, with 2.35 million page views for the first 12 days of being Paris in the Springtime posted online, is the highest of any collection this season. The top 20 accounted for a combined 22 million page views. Paris’ top spring collections based on the number of Style.com page views during the first 12 days they were posted online. — Cecily Hall

CHANEL HERMÈS Page views: 2,353,065 Page views: 1,005,697 Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel collection was a mix of women’s It was a subdued showing for Jean Paul Gaultier’s wear for spring. Jeans, tweeds and were Hermès collection this season. Beginning with a white sprinkled into the show, which also included a major draped , he showed suede jackets and a host 1 exploration of shorts. Later came “suits in blinding 11 of colorful cardigans. “The collection lacked that brights, party frocks and on and on,” said WWD. essential spark of personality,” said WWD.

LOUIS VUITTON JEAN PAUL GAULTIER Page views: 1,595,462 Page views: 821,557 The celeb-fest was in full force for Louis Vuitton — Embroidered peasant blouses formed the everyone from Winona Ryder to Sharon Stone stopped collection’s base. In addition, Gaultier worked in by. And as terrific as the clothes have been, “ plenty to please his urban followers: Sophisticated 2 steer the Vuitton ship, and no one knows that better 12 tailored suits, fitted jackets, even floral chiffon than [Marc] Jacobs,” said WWD. dresses were a few of the favorites.

BALENCIAGA JOHN GALLIANO Page views: 1,589,000 Page views: 819,036 “C’est magnifique!” said WWD. “Nicolas Ghesquière Everyone is beautiful. That was Galliano’s approach exploded the Paris season into a flurry of this year. Instead of leggy models, he used older fabulousness.” Sack dresses, skinny jackets and jeans, women, twins, some glams, cross-dressers — you 3 along with T- that read “Devils in Balenciaga” 13 name it. “The clothes? Beautiful. But they made for a were all part of the rocker chic collection. mere sideshow to the main event,” said WWD.

VALENTINO VIKTOR & ROLF Page views: 1,534,362 Page views: 761,985 Valentino’s collection included a black-and-white Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren presented an opening passage full of the clean-cut shapes that made entirely backward show. When the lights went down, him famous. Standouts included kimono jackets and out came the designers for their final bow, followed by 4 gowns covered in flowers, and a white gown with 14 their models. Then the clothes: Gowns were twisted and crystal straps that was perfect for evening. suits morphed jacket sleeves into pant legs.

CHLOÉ ROCHAS Page views: 1,444,103 Page views: 757,605 “Phoebe Philo is one of the hottest, most-copied Olivier Theyskens revealed a lineup of gorgeous designers in fashion, having infused girlish dressing gowns with curves, trains and embellishments. with a whole new savvy,” said WWD. She showed Though evening has been his primary focus, he also 5 pristine white frocks — confections in linen, organza 15 introduced day wear, including in washed and metal gauze with embellishments. fabrics worn with simple, feminine blouses.

CHRISTIAN DIOR CHRISTIAN LACROIX Page views: 1,442,079 Page views: 674,467 John Galliano let go of fancy for spring and instead A runway covered in sand hinted a new attitude at featured a nude-tone collection. Clothing was overlaid Christian Lacroix. Pretty dresses formed the core of with black lace and piping for corsetry outlines. “High the collection: strapless prints, artsy knits and 6 evening kept the same ethereal calm as the day 16 dresses were revealed. Lacroix also showed expert clothes,” said WWD. tailoring in a fabulous, full-cut red metallic trenchcoat.

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN CELINE Page views: 1,276,650 Page views: 613,599 For spring, McQueen stated, “Power dressing. I’m New Celine designer Ivana Omazic packed in dozens bringing sex back to the market.” Yet some of the of exits, and many looked quite good. Among the collection was too aggressive, said WWD. The tailored show’s strengths: the snappy sportswear and the soft, 7 looks fell short. Nevertheless, dresses and a 17 pleated-front voile shirtdress. “But such is not enough white column dress were hits. to carry a collection,” said WWD.

YVES SAINT LAURENT GIVENCHY Page views: 1,160,296 Page views: 602,328 Stefano Pilati’s preferred silhouette for spring: “Clean Riccardo Tisci brought out an influx of zombie- and lean with an Eighties cast to the cut, with dominatrix hybrids who moved mechanically around. demonstrative frills softening the inherent precision.” “Which is too bad,” said WWD, “Some of the clothes 8 The most successful revelations were the toreador 18 were really good, suggesting a creator who could pants with ruffled shirts and little jackets. develop his craft into a serious business.”

STELLA MCCARTNEY VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Page views: 1,133,126 Page views: 538,898 McCartney’s collection was sophisticated and classic. The collection was based on Westwood’s signature She opened with a over pale gray pants, along disheveled look. She revealed T-shirts with sayings with a lavender shirtdress. Evening revealed cocktail such as, “I’m not a terrorist. Please don’t arrest me,” 9 dresses, some adorned with prints straight from a 19 or “Branded.” Westwood’s easy knits and tie-dye painting by Jeff Koons — who attended the show. frocks were well-received.

LANVIN YOHJI YAMAMOTO Page views: 1,125,953 Page views: 450,957 Alber Elbaz’s collection was pared down this year. Ya mamoto’s display of baggy pants, overgrown shirts Sheath dresses were cinched with industrial elastic and witch-like apparel were all cumbersome and , and men’s shirts were tucked into lean, mean missed the mark. WWD expected more, calling 10 pencil skirts. For evening, Elbaz sent out slick dresses 20 Ya mamoto “One of fashion’s great creators: artist, with glittering orchids or abstract colors. intellect and technician in one remarkable package.” VIVIENNE WESTWOOD PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE; ALL OTHERS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI DOMINIQUE MAITRE; ALL OTHERS BY VIVIENNE WESTWOOD PHOTO BY SOURCE: STYLE.COM THE WEB SITE HAS A MONTHLY READERSHIP OF MORE THAN 1,200,000. THE AVERAGE AGE OF THE AUDIENCE IS 35, WITH A MEDIAN INCOME OF $68,000; 83 PERCENT OF READERS ARE FEMALE. The Resort Issue January 2006

Resort Collections are responsible for 60 to 70 percent of the total spring-summer sales. Make sure you find your place in the sun. Advertising Details Space Close: November 8, 2005 On Sale: December 9, 2005 Contact: Jennifer Moccia at 212-630-4904

Photo by Michael Thompson Source: WWD June 21, 2005 18 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2005

BANKABLE EMPLOYEES who want to be their own boss EXCELLENT OPPORTUNITIES If you have been working for a company Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. making them money with your contacts No Lot Too Big or Too Small. and would like to have equity in your Call CLOTHES-OUT: own business, this opportunity is for OUTDOORS Sr. DESIGNER & (937) 898-2975 you! I have up to seven figures of in- capital lined up for qualified candidates. Please email your resume GRAPHIC DESIGNER’S and industry background to: For the past 25 years the brand has been a leader in [email protected] the men’s sportswear market. With a tradition rooted in Exceptional Sr. Apparel Designer to join our Back Country along with dollar volume you generate, classic American styling, Chaps continues to provide for the or could generate if you had the start- Outfitters/Outdoors Division. Work in NYC, or Wall, NJ. In up capital to be on your own. needs of the contemporary man’s varied lifestyle. this distinctive role, create fresh and innovative designs for At Chaps, a division of Warnaco Inc., we offer exciting and Outdoors related Apparel lines. Also, work w/a fantastic category challenging careers for people who are passionate about management team to envision a line from concept to reality. our brand and are determined to succeed in a fast-paced, creative environment. We currently have exciting opportunities SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: Hip college town boutique in Fort for a talented Director of Production-Men’s Wovens Bottoms Skills: • Photoshop / Illustrator • garment construction. Collins, CO. 120K gross; 25K net. & Shirts and a Production Manager-Men’s Activewear & Swim. •Current knowledge of outdoor related industry trends, market Affordable junior trends. Busy neigh- borhood; good lease. 65K. Call (970) trends & target consumer •Experience working within seasonal 980-0651. View at buzbuysell.com DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION - design/development calendars •Good overall design sense •Ability to multi-task •1 - 3 years related experience. Infant/Children’s Clothing Men’s Wovens Bottoms & Shirts Est’d. Retail Store - 2 locations in North The successful candidate will have a minimum of 10 + years The door is open to set you mind free! Back Country Outfitters NJ. $2M gross sales/year. Private label related industry experience in a woven/denim bottoms offers great benefits & not to mention a positive team to work with. business. Strong corporate gift division. Apply today! If you’ve got what it takes, we encourage you to 37th St. 25 windows 7000 ft. $16.00 Website e-commerce ready, completely production department. As the Director of Production you 5500 ft. Terrace- Views- $20.00 computerized. Ready for expansion - will be responsible for overseeing the men’s woven produc- send your resume along w/your salary history via email or fax: Showrooms Bwy & 7th- sublet- move in turnkey operation. For info, E-mail to: tion team to ensure corporate goals are met. You will be Prime Manhattan Re Jon 212-268-8043 [email protected] responsible for overseeing all sourcing, product development E: [email protected] F: (732) 280-6190 For Space in Garment Center and production. We seek only those candidates with global Helmsley-Spear, Inc. sourcing experience, a solid knowledge of garment construc- 212-880-0414 tion, fabric knowledge and finishing. Showrooms & Lofts PRODUCTION MANAGER - BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Activewear & Swim AN INCREDIBLE, CREATIVE, GROWTH OPPORTUNITY Great ’New’ Office Space Avail ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 The successful candidate will have a minimum of 5+ years A successful Fashion Jewelry Co.,located in new corporate headquarters in related industry experience in an activewear & swim produc- Orange County is looking for a Director of Product Development . This West 34th Street Offices for Rent DESIGNER tion department. As the Production Manager you will be profitable company is poised for growth and continued success. from 2,000 sf to 4,500 sf available CAD STUDIO responsible for all aspects of sourcing, product development Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 and production management. We seek only those candi- If you have always loved fashion, and can design jewelry that is fresh, fashion www.dumann.com forward, and appealing to a wide variety of women this is a great opportunity. Seeking designer w/3+ yrs. dates with global sourcing experience, a solid knowledge of exp. with focus on infant/ garment construction, fabric knowledge and strong costing We are looking for someone with 7 - 10 years of experience, and some- toddler &girls. Computer experience. one who likes the business side of design as well as the creative part of sketching & thorough knowl- Please fax resume along with salary requirements to: the job. The designs need to reflect the current trends and need to be able edge of garment construction (212) 287-8752 or e-mail as an MS Word attachment to be mass produced cost effectively. req., hand illustration skills to [email protected] The right person will be mentored by one of the world’s great designers desirable. Thorough knowl. 1411 Broadway Showroom Prospective candidates should reference Chaps Production and have a team of his/her own to launch each season’s line. Established Swimwear Mfr at 1411 of PhotoShop & Illustrator a B’way looking to share its space with a must, ColourMatters a plus. Director or Production Manager in the subject line when This job has a competitive salary and a generous benefits package. If you compatible non-competing company. Must possess submitting resumes for consideration. are the right person please…Fax or E-mail your resume to: Call Dany @ 516-433-1144 degree, BFA preferred. 949-863-9170 / [email protected] Great company, competitive Junior Sales Rep 8th Floor Showroom @California Mart has space for rent. compensation package. Team DESIGNER Partnership or representation available. players fax resume. We are proud to be an equal opportunity employer Updated missy sweater co. seeks Call Mark W 818-970-3327 designer w/ 2-4 yrs exp. Must be very Production Assistant E-mail: [email protected] Attn: Ellie 212-387-9988 strong in latest trends w/thorough NYC ladies’ garment importer seeks Design knowledge of sweater and cut + sew highly qualified person to manage all Bookkeeper (Assistant) facets of prod’n. Min 5 yrs exp w/ knowl Admin Since 1967 Sportswear Co seeks F/T or P/T entry Cut and Sew knits. Please e-mail resume: [email protected] of Indian mkt. Must be org’d w/ strong W-I-N-S-T-O-N level to handle A/P. Hard working. MS comm skills. Fabric knowl & garment OFFICE & Quickbooks a plus. Import Designer and Designer construction a must. Computer literate. APPAREL STAFFING FAX resume to: 212-921-5321 E-mail resume: [email protected] DESIGN * SALES * MERCH Tech Designer VIVIENNE TAM ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION Great American Sportswear co. seeks (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Tech Designer w/ strong knowledge of SHOES /BAGS knit fabrics, detailed spec / tech pack, PRODUCTION BOOKKEEPER construction, fit evaluation and grading DESIGNER to handle all aspects in production dept. COORDINATOR Garment center company seeks F/T With 5 yrs exp. in Designer/Contemp. Women’s apparel manufacturer located sharp, friendly, well spoken candidate Must be highly organized individual Market. Must possess strong Technical Asst. Design/Graphic Design w/good email communication skills to in Northern NJ seeks detail oriented person and computer oriented. A/P plus Bank &Communications skills. Fax resume to work closely w/ FAR EAST factories. Contemporary Missy Women’s Wear Co. recs. Good salary and benefits. handle follow through of styles in to: (212) 840-9660 production from start to completion. Duties will include following up w/ raw ***ATTENTION ASIA*** seeks Asst. Designer proficient in Illustra- Please Fax resume to: 212-268-0547 material details, issuing C/T’s and tracking We currently sell: FEDERATED STORES, tor &Photoshop.Assist in all processes Also seeking Import Designer w/ jr cut production schedule. Candidate must be of design & create some embroidery & FASHION FACULTY SEARS, J.C.PENNEY, STAGE STORES, & sew bckgrd, 2 yrs exp. to initiate Private College seeks faculty for responsible, highly motivated and organized DILLARDS, and STEINMART. We are print artwork. Intern or 1 year exp. req’d. specs from sketches, give thorough with 3+ yrs of production/ Far East exp. E-mail: Fashion Program. Ph.D Degree preferred, seeking factories that are WRAP certfied [email protected] instructions in product packs for Master’s degree required, along with Knowledge of Chinese language a plus. for large quantities in Sportswear, blouses, DENIM DESIGNER sample/ line development, follow up w/ Major denim branded importer seeks a significant industry experience. Knowl- Fax Resume w/ salary req. to 973-249-8651 knit tops. We have combined 80 years makers, must be capable of designing edge of textiles, product development, or Email to [email protected]. EOE/M/F/V/D experience in ladies apparel and need designer with 3 yrs exp w/girls denim. groups w/direction from merchandiser. Proficiency in Photoshop, Illustrator buying, visual merchandising, merchandise strong backup. Please contact us at: At Last Sportswear, Inc. Fax: 212-768-7856 Attn: Sarina planning & control. P.O. Box 1120, N.Y.C., NY 10018-9998 and Technical skills required. Leading importer of ladies Apparel has E-mail: [email protected] Send resume to: Fashion Search, the following positions available: KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Berkeley College, 44 Rifle Camp Road, RETAIL & Sales-Missy Knits - Min. 5 years exp. West Paterson, New Jersey 07424. DESIGNER ASSISTANT Fax: 973-278-0080 or MERCHANDISE Proven track record with department Girls 2-16 import sportswear co seeks and specialty chains. Email: [email protected] organized & detail oriented team player Equal Opportunity Employment PLANNERS Design Asst. - 3 years experience. Design Assistant with min 2 years exp. Responsibili ties Perry Ellis International seeks exp. Must be proficient in Photo Shop/Illustrator, include detail flat sketching, creating FASHION OPPORTUNITIES Merch/Retail planners for growing di- team player and detail oriented. Excellent Opportunity production packages for o/seas ftys, Artists - Designers - Merchandisers - visions. 3+ years exp, MS Excel a must. artwork & presentation boards. Mac CS Sales Asst. - Experienced person that Well established Jr Sweater Co. seeking a Production - Sales - Technical - Etc. Email: [email protected]/Fax 212-536-5870. KNIT FACTORY req. Fax res w/sal req. 212-695-7549 Call (212) 643-8090 Fax (212) 643-8127(agcy) Cut & Sew Knit Factory needed Imm. can handle details and follow-up. Must Design Asst. Entry Level. No design EOE M/F/V/D NYC area. Fine Guage Jersey Fabrics be organized with good communication experience needed. Admin duties, record Verifiable recent refs requried. skills. Opportunity for growth. keeping, organization of showroom line, Graphic Artist Fax to: 212-768-3680 samples and color swatches. We offer a All replies held in the strictest confidence. great work environment with excellent DESIGNER Jr. Sportswear Mfr. seeks exp’d. Graphic Excellent Benefits. opportunities for growth. Contemporary Sprtswr Co seeks crea- Artist. Must have good organizational Email: [email protected] Pls fax or email resume to Sue & Kim @ tive designer with sweater & woven skills, strong communication and follow PATTERN/SAMPLES Fax#: 212-382-1469 It’s Out Time 212-221-7017 background. 4 years experience with up capabilities. Proficiency in Photo- [email protected] strong technical skills. Fax resume: shop and Illustrator req’d. Please Fax Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast resume to: 516-869-6957 work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 212-840-5047

PATTERNS, SAMPLES, DESIGNER PRODUCTIONS Hi-End Fashion Co. seeks creative All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Designer. Min. 4 yrs. exp. in designing Call Sherry 212-719-0622. collection, with strong Technical and Organization skills. Fax resume w/c Merchandising Coordinator letter 212-398-9695. Searching for F/T store merchandiser PATTERNS, SAMPLES, based in NY to work with major Dept. store. Responsible for increasing sales, PRODUCTIONS product presentation and building Full service shop to the trade. relationships at store level. Min. 3 yrs. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. DESIGNER (Manh., NY) exp. in luxury brand. Fax resume and Men’s Sportswear: Develop patterns & salary req. to 212.453.5563. graphics using CAD. Reasearch, analyze Pier 22 Designs trends. Confer with sales & customers. PATTERNMAKER Full service CAD/Design Studio Design & source fabric. 40 hrs./wk., Leading Sportswear Mfr. seeks a first 718.428.8822 [email protected] Competitive salary. BFA degree: Fashion patternmaker to work directly with de- Design, and 3 years exp. req’d. Foreign signers developing styles. Must under- language helpful; In’tl. travel necessary. stand specs and have some computer PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD Send resumes to: Block Corp., Attn: H/R, knowledge. Nice working environment! High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- 350 Fifth Ave. Suite 2512, N.Y., NY 10118 Good benefits! Please fax resumes to: sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 No calls please. (212) 730-8994 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2005 19 WWD.COM Milan Court Rules Retailers Surprised by Mouret’s Departure Fin.part’s Bankrupt LONDON — From a commercial perspec- designed by Roland Mouret anymore. He’s one piece left.” She said the Galaxy dress tive, Roland Mouret couldn’t have got a signature look that no one [else] (which sells for about $2,000), the skirts and By Amanda Kaiser picked a worse time to quit his company. does,” describing it as “sexy screen siren.” pants have all sold really well. Retailers here said his fall collection, Robert Burke, senior vice president of Albrecht questioned how Mouret’s firm MILAN — A court here declared Fin.part and especially his figure-hugging Galaxy fashion and public relations at Bergdorf can exist without him. “He is so talented bankrupt, ending a two-year saga of finan- dress, has been selling incredibly well. Goodman, said, “We’ve had good success in the way he creates,” she said. She said cial difficulties that included the resigna- And after five years in business, the com- the last three seasons with that as long as the line going tion of founder Gianluigi Facchini, mount- pany expects to see its first profit in the Roland. It’s very sad to hear forward is “consistent with ing debts, bond defaults and investigations 2005/2006 fiscal year, ending in April. the news. We felt he was real- what we’ve come to expect, into alleged insider trading. “The collection is selling before it even ly making a name for himself it might work,” but Mouret’s A Fin.part spokeswoman said it is con- hits the floor, and you can bet it’s going to and creating a distinctive archives aren’t that exten- sulting with its lawyers to determine if it be an even bigger seller now,” said Jason and special style. Our New sive yet. can pursue any appeal or legal alternative. Broderick, buyer for international design- York customers are very at- Albrecht said “it would PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER DAVID PHOTO BY Milan prosecutor Eugenio Fusco could er wear at Harrods. He added that tracted to it. It’s a very so- be smart for another compa- not be reached for further comment on Mouret’s limited-edition Galaxy dress at phisticated urban look. It’s ny” to sign him up, but noted Wednesday. Harrods — in light brown wool angora — also merchandised very well that Mouret’s firm told her Fin.part and prosecutors had battled was an instant sell-out. from a price standpoint.” this week that he wasn’t one another in the courts for months. Tuesday, Mouret and his backers — Burke said Mouret “was planning to take another de- Despite the company’s myriad attempts Sharai Meyers, the firm’s creative director, just starting to get his recog- sign job. at refinancing, Fin.part didn’t come up and Andre Meyers, the chairman — said nition and a devoted follow- Retailers, however, were with the funds needed to convince the they would part ways after the fall 2006 ing.” He said the store will divided in their feelings courts to let it continue operating. collection. The split, they said in a state- have to “wait and see” what about the future of the firm. It also failed to win over stock market ment, was due to differences in strategic happens to the line without “They were a magical regulator Consob. Late last month, vision. The Roland Mouret trademark re- him. combination,” said Natalie Consob blocked Fin.part’s planned mains the property of the company. “Something as delicate as Massanet, founder and chair- bond/share swap offer, a critical part of Retailers were shocked, especially a young brand losing its de- man of Net-a-Porter, of the company’s restructuring plan after since sell-throughs have been growing ex- signer puts it in grave jeop- The best- Sharai and Mouret. “I was Fin.part said last year it was heading for ponentially. “The collection is selling phe- ardy,” Burke added. selling Galaxy completely surprised by the a default on 211 million euros, or $255 nomenally, and he’s actually number one Joan Kaner, vice presi- dress for fall. news.” million, in bonds. or two in our designer area,” said Anna dent and fashion director of But Massanet, who has Fin.part said Wednesday it would no Garner, fashion director at Selfridges. Neiman Marcus, also said the Mouret been carrying the line for four years, longer appeal the Consob decision since it “The Galaxy dress has been our sin- line has been selling very well for fall. said she has faith they’ll both find new is entering bankruptcy proceedings. gle most-requested piece of clothing for “It’s sexy, it has a French touch, it’s very success. The court decision voids any of fall. It has shot Roland into a whole feminine and it’s the direction clothes “There’s a very strong design team Fin.part’s pending asset disposals, namely other dimension, and generated so much are moving toward.” She said whether and commercial, manufacturing and fi- an agreement to sell Cerruti to men’s wear awareness and press attention. It has Neiman’s goes forward with the line “de- nancing infrastructure in place. It would company Manifattura Paoloni. A prelimi- opened him up to a whole new public.” pends on who comes in to take his be ideal for that team to move forward. nary deal was inked in July. A Paoloni “We had 100 percent sell-throughs at place.” Roland, for his part, has amazing sensi- spokesman said the company is still inter- regular price at both stores. There’s not a “It’s a wait-and-see situation,” she bility, charisma and drive.” ested in buying Cerruti and is consulting piece left. We placed a significantly larg- added. “He’s built a following in Europe Others were not so upbeat. Garner said with its lawyers about future options. But er order for spring,” said Jeffrey Kalinsky, and was beginning to build one here. the company is all about Mouret. much will depend on the court-appointed president and chief executive officer of People are interested to see what his next “Everybody loves Roland, and the compa- curator who will oversee the future of Jeffrey, the two-unit specialty store in move will be.” ny is inextricably linked to him and his Fin.part’s assets. New York and Atlanta. Sara Albrecht, owner and ceo of Ultimo, personality. He has to be a part of the — With contributions from Kalinsky said he’s not upset yet because the Chicago-based women’s specialty store, equation,” she said. Courtney Colavita he doesn’t know if Mouret will go to anoth- said, “The line is doing fabulously. We’ve — Samantha Conti, with contributions er firm. “I’ll be upset if I can’t buy clothes had 99 percent sell-throughs and only have from Lisa Lockwood, New York

Fabulous Oppty! Fast growing, Italian leather AMAZING OPPORTUNITY Co, which is selling very successfully SALES ASSISTANT in Europe, Japan, Korea & Russia is Well established Jr. Sweater Co. Seeking now introducing the line in the US. Sales Asst. to Pres of Sales. Must have Seeking aggressive, driven sales pros Swimwear Sales Reps Excellent Sales who have well-established relation- Independent reps wanted for our Deep good analytical written and verbal skills, Blue junior and children’s swim collec- strong work ethic, extremely detail ships w/ better specialty stores & bou- Opportunities tiques. Territories available are South- tions. Select territories open. Oxygen oriented, the ability to work in a fast Inc established in 1986 manufactures paced environ. excellent comp, organi- west, Midwest, Southeast & West Coast. For immediate consideration, and ships from NY. Great wholesales zational and follow-up skills, and the and good commissions. Key Account Sales ability to keep accurate records. Exp a +. call 508-685-9663 to set up appt to see our line in NY showroom on Nov 8 & Please contact Doug @212-768-1330 or We offer a great work environment E-mail: [email protected] To work existing & expand with excellent opportunities for growth. 9th or pls send resume: 508-520-9171 branded & private label Please fax or email resume to Laura @ or e-mail [email protected] UPTOWN JEANS Mens/Boys Jeanswear It’s Our Time 212-221-7017 New contemporary junior denim line business w/major accts. [email protected] Madison Ave. Luxury Retail seeking well connected independent FT/PT Retail Sales Pros Needed. sales rep in New York, Los Angeles, Co. is rapidly growing & Salary/Comm & benefits.Fur exp. a + Dallas and Atlanta to develop business looking to add the right Also seeking outside Personal Shoppers. with major dept stores and specialty High Comm. Pls. fax resume stores. Price points $20.00 to $50.00 indiv to our team. Great Attn: I Narissi (212) 684-3172 or wholesale. Fax resume to: 212-563-5823 oppty for just the right E-mail: [email protected] or E-mail: [email protected] person. Exp w/this type of DENIM SALES business a must. MANAGER Fast growing high fashion jeans mfr. SALES EXECUTIVE Sales Assistant seeks top-notch sales pro with specialty/ Established missy knitwear company dept./chain stores connections. Min. 5 seeks top level sales executive. Min. 5 To handle & communicate yrs exp. with track records. Excellent years experience with specialty chains salary/ comm. Please E-mail: and dept. stores. Full benefits. Please w/major nat’l & regional e-mail resume to: accts. Must be detail [email protected]/ Fax 212-827-0011 [email protected] oriented with good Sales & Merch. Execs communication skills. Overseas vertical set-up oem on knits w/ multi-country set ups, doing 60 mil Please fax resume to fob biz, looking to expand its share at Manufacturing Executive 646-674-1246 mod to high end/Branded mkts. Qualified After 5 years of retirement, ready to EXCELLENT SALES execs to run Merchandising & Sales Dept. give career an "encore"! Accomplished E-mail CV to: [email protected]. Mfg. Pro w/40 years exp. as a Production/ OPPORTUNITIES All info will be held in strict confidence. Quality Control Exec in virtually sewn Awellrecognized, rapid growing, young product. Graduate of Phila. Textile; rose ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE contemporary / contemporary denim Established fashion forward handbag through ranks from Ind. Engineer to collection is seeking Account Executives SALES REP VP Mfg. Was President of own Designer mfr. seeking experienced, energetic for the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic Morgane Le Fay seeks sales rep for individual to join our specialty stores exclusive designer collection. Candidates Dress Contracting Business, and most regions. Strong relationships w/upscale recently responsible for off-shore mfg. sales team. Must be able to immediately specialty store retailers are required. must be self-motivated and have key manage and maintain accounts on all connections with specialty stores; in Eastern Europe and the Near East Candidates should be highly motivated , for a major retailer. Available for Full levels. Handbag experience req. analytical, detail oriented, and willing nationally and internationally. Please Please fax resume 212-679 0311 email: Time employment. Willing to relocate/ to travel. Fax resume to: 212-395-9740 [email protected] travel. Please call: 954-234-0594 Cotton Incorporated, 2002. © k of Cotton Incorporated. Registered Service Mark/Trademar ® TERS. AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPOR PRODUCERS AMERICA’S COTTON

urban

Denim business suit by Stacia. Fabric by cotton. Cotton.The fabric of our lives.® www.cottoninc.com