Carlsbad Caverns and Guadalupe Mountains National Parks

Home , Guadalupe Peak, Last Chance (Mars)

Carlsbad Caverns and National Park Service Visitor Guide U.S. Department of the Interior summer/fall 2015 Guadalupe Mountains National Parks Fall/Winter 2017-18 Greetings Cosmos Welcome to Carlsbad Caverns and Guadalupe Mountains National Parks. Carlsbad Caverns National Park, a World Heritage Site since 1995, features a spectacular cave system of highly decorated chambers. Guadalupe Mountains National Park protects one of the world’s best examples of a fossil reef. Both parks are located within the Chihuahuan Desert, a fascinating place to explore desert life.

Our park staff are here to help make your visit a truly memorable event and will be happy to help you plan your visit to areas within and without the designated wilderness. Guided tours at Carlsbad Caverns can enrich your park experience. These tours offer a variety of caving experiences, from easy An Awe-Inspiring Beauty lantern tours to challenging trips involving NPS Photo crawling and squeezing through tight pas- A time-lapsed photo captures the Milky Way overhead in all of its magnificence and light pollution on the horizon. by Carolyn Hunt sages. For generations our ancestors There are many ways in which residents of 3. BRIGHTNESS: Consider the brightness looked to the heavens and saw a sky full of Sedona, Tucson—and other people con- of the light. The brightness of a light is called Guadalupe Mountains National Park has stars. If you have never seen such a sight, it cerned with reducing their light pollution— lumens; the amount of light. A 25 or 40 watt over 80 miles of hiking trails to explore, is something to behold! Imagine the inky decrease light pollution going skyward. If incandescent bulb, or a 9 watt compact fluo- ranging from wheelchair accessible paths to black of night painted with a delicate misty one is to have a night-sky-friendly light you rescent, is usually enough to light a porch or strenuous mountain hikes, including an 8.4 glow; this is the Milky Way. The Milky Way will get a “goldilocks” light. The light is just driveway. mile roundtrip hike to Texas’ highest moun- is joined by bright stars twinkling—flashing right, not too much, not too little. tain, Guadalupe Peak (8751', 2667m). red, blue, green, white. They seem to dance 4. WHEN: Consider when light is needed. in the sky. This view has been described Though my soul may set in dark- Installing sensors can allow the light to come As you travel and spend time in the area as numinous, evoking feelings of mystery, on when people are present and using the please remember to keep safety in mind. holiness, and spirituality. Some cultures even ness, it will rise in perfect light; light. Sensors then turn the light off when it Deer and other wildlife are plentiful—en- had myth, legend, and religion entwined I have loved the stars too fondly to is not needed. joy watching wildlife, but remember they often move across roads, especially in the with the stars. be fearful of the night. 5. COLOR: The color of the light is impor- evenings; be vigilant while driving during Today, the stars often play a diminished —Sarah Williams tant as well. “Warmer” colors, such as am- twilight hours. Hikers should be prepared role in our lives. Most people live in cities for rapidly changing weather conditions. where even the night is bright, living in light Hikers can become dehydrated in our dry 24 hours a day. We often have to travel great climate, so carry plenty of water (one gal- distances to see what is directly overhead. lon per person per day is recommended). The tapestry of the heavens is hidden by Always check trail conditions and weather a veil of human-made light. Consider the forecasts with a ranger before venturing into picture (right). Can you pick out where you the backcountry. are from? Places like Chicago, Los Angeles, Portland, Washington, D.C., and the entire We are wholeheartedly committed to our outline of Florida are emblazoned on the mission of preserving and providing for the earth. You can see that cities are in stark enjoyment of our nation’s most outstanding contrast to the nearby, uninhabited water treasures. We wish you a rewarding experi- bodies of the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, ence in every way. the Great Lakes, and the Gulf of Mexico. Sincerely,

This human-caused lighting of the night was noticed by some people, particularly astronomers. Astronomers often have a keen interest in light pollution, as they look to the stars to Douglas S. Neighbor The United States at night. Photo by NASA Earth Observatory/NOAA NGDC. seek answers and make predictions. This is Superintendent because visible-light observations cannot be To get a light that is “just right” follow these bers, are useful for a few reasons. They de- Carlsbad Caverns made with a large amount of light pollution. handy tips.: crease sky brightness, are easier on the eyes, National Park Light can travel hundreds of miles to disrupt and are less susceptible to insects. astronomical observations. Some cities saw 1. WHERE: Use light where you need it. this was occurring and decided to decrease Choose locations of lights carefully and only Efforts like those listed above have contrib- the amount of light they put into the sky. Two install a light where it is truly needed. uted to Sedona, Arizona’s status as a “Dark such cities are Tucson and Sedona, Arizona. Sky Community,” recognized by the Interna- They have less light pollution when com- 2. SHIELD: Pick lighting fixtures that shield tional Dark Sky Association. Eric Brunnemann pared to other cities their size. Tucson has a the light. A fixture which directs light to the Superintendent number of astronomical observatories out- ground is essential. Shielded light fixtures Astronomers are not the only ones who ben- Guadalupe Mountains side its city limits, which have benefited from direct light at the ground, not the sky. efit from darkness. Animals also need night. National Park their choice to reduce light pollution. ...continued on page 3 Inside this Issue StudentsCave Tours...... Help Survey.Page 4-5 CaveHiking Tours Info...... Page pp. 6-7 6 Hiking Information p. 8

Contact Information 2 New Trail p. 3

Hiker Safety 4-5

Stagecoaching Was No Picnic 10

Sitting Bull Falls 11 NPS Photo /Dave Bieri NPS Photo/Michael Medrano NPS Photo/Peter Jones Area Attractions 12

Junior and Senior Ranger Programs Telephone and What Time is It? Web Directory Welcome to Guadalupe Mountains National Park. Guadalupe Mountains National Park protects one of the world’s Official National Park Service sites include Both parks best examples of a fossil reef. Both parks are located within the Chi- .gov in their web address. huahuan Desert, a fascinating place to explore desert life. Carlsbad Caverns National Park are in the 3225 National Parks Highway Mountain Time Park staff are here to help make your visit a truly memorable event Carlsbad, NM 88220 and will be happy to help you plan your visit to areas within and Visitor Center without the designated wilderness. 727 Carlsbad Caverns Highway Zone. Carlsbad, NM 88220 Guadalupe Mountains National Park has over 80 miles of hiking 575-785-2232 www.nps.gov/cave trails to explore, ranging from wheelchair accessible paths to strenu- www.facebook.com/Carlsbad Caverns ous mountain hikes, including an 8.4-mile roundtrip hike to Texas’ National Park Because Guadalupe highest mountain, Guadalupe Peak (8,751'). Check us out on Twitter: @CavernsNPS Mountains National

Guadalupe Mountains National Park Park is close to the Many national parks across america offer a junior 400 Pine Canyon Drive Ranger program for children to encourage interest in their national Salt Flat, TX 79847 Central Time Zone, parks and to promote a sense of stewardship and ownership for 915-828-3251 ext. 2124 these special places that they come to visit. This self-paced educa- www.nps.gov/gumo your phone will dis- tional program allows children to earn a patch and/or badge and/or www.facebook.com/Guadalupe.Moun- certificate upon completion of required activities that teach them tains play the wrong time Check us out on Twitter: about park resources. Age appropriate activities are included in the @GuadalupeMtnsNP Junior Ranger booklet, typically for pre-kindergarten through upper unless you set it to elementary-aged children. www.meetup.com/Guadalupe-Moun- Mountain Time. tains-National-Park-Meetup-Group/ At Carlsbad Caverns, the Junior Ranger program offers activities that teach children about the resources both above ground and below Food, Lodging, and Camping the surface (including plant and animal life of the desert, cave fea- Carlsbad Chamber of Commerce tures, and history of the park). Younger children have opportunities 575-887-6516 to color and draw, find objects on a visual scavenger hunt, use their www.carlsbadchamber.com senses to experience their surroundings, and complete games. Older ? children will sequence events, complete word searches, and write Van Horn Texas Visitors Bureau stories and poems. Each activity in the booklet is an optional activity 432-283-2682 depending on interest and age-level. The Junior Ranger booklet is available at the visitor center information desk. Children of all ages Weather Conditions ? may participate and earn a badge. The program is free. Carlsbad Weather Watch ? 575-885-1848 ? www.weather.gov

Road Conditions Traveling with a Pet? New Mexico: 800-432-4269 On a warm day the temperature inside a car can kill a pet. Do not www.nmroads.com leave your pets unattended. Texas: 800-452-9292 drivetexas.org At Carlsbad Caverns National Park, pets are allowed on all paved roads, pullouts, and parking areas, along Walnut Canyon Emergency: Call 911 Desert Drive (Loop Road), on the paved Nature trail, and at Rattle- snake Springs picnic area. Pets must be kept on a leash at all times. Pets GPS Coordinates are not permitted in the cave or at the bat flight programs. However, Carlsbad Caverns National Park service animals are allowed. During the day, your pet may be cared for Visitor Center (Nature Trail) at the concessions kennel for a $10 fee. Call 575-785-2281 for details. A Coordinate System: Lat/Long citation will be issued if animals are left in vehicles when ambient air Datum: WGS 1984 temperatures will reach 70° Fahrenheit (21° Celcius) or higher. Latitude: 32.174212° N At Guadalupe Mountains, children work through a separate activity Longitude: 104.445855° W At Guadalupe Mountains National Park, pets are allowed only on booklet and visit points of interest within the park. The booklet ac- Guadalupe Mountains NP the Pinery Trail, while on leash, but are not allowed on other trails, commodates families of varying travel plans. Many of the activities Visitor Center (Nature Trail) can be completed at the Pine Springs Visitor Center or Dog Canyon Coordinate System: Lat/Long in the backcountry, in buildings, or at evening programs. Service ani- Contact Station. Children who complete four activities earn a badge Datum: WGS 1984 mals are allowed. Both pets and service animals are permitted in the and certificate, while those who do six, earn a patch, in addition to Latitude: 31.89370° N Pine Springs and Dog Canyon campgrounds. In any national park, the badge and certificate. There is no charge for participation in the Longitude: 104.82214° W your pet must be physically restrained at all times. program. Junior Paleontologist, Wilderness Explorer, and Night Sky Explorer Activity Books are also available. Participants will earn a Volunteerism badge (Jr. Paleontologist) or patch (Wilderness Explorer, Night Sky Explorer) upon completion.

Makes a Difference Senior Ranger programs are a new development, currently avail- We would like to extend our sincere gratitude to able at limited locations, aimed at an audience who enjoys a chal- the dedicated effort and talent that volunteers have brought to Carls- lenge and wants to use an activity book to learn about the park and As a nonprofit education partner of the bad Caverns and Guadalupe Mountains National Parks. Volunteers help plan their visit. Senior Ranger books are available at the Pine National Park Service, WNPA supports play a vital role in fulfilling our mission of preserving our natural and Springs Visitor Center, Dog Canyon Contact Station, and the Carls- cultural heritage and sharing that heritage with the visiting public. 71 national park partners across the bad Caverns Visitor Center for anyone 13 years and older. Activities Volunteers do everything from staffing the information desk, roving include visiting sites, learning about the park’s history, geology, West, developing products, services, and interpretation, patrolling surface and cave trails, to trail mainte- flora, and fauna. Upon completion, participants earn a patch and programs that enrich the visitor experi- nance, research, cave restoration, and more. certificate. ence.

To become a Volunteer-In-Park (VIP) visit www.volunteer.gov The National Park Service also offers an online WebRanger pro- In partnership with the National Park or contact: gram for those who are unable to visit a national park, featuring Service since 1938, WNPA advances Carlsbad Caverns National Park activities about sites found across the nation. The activities illustrate education, interpretation, research, Maggi Daly, Volunteer-In-Park Coordinator principles in natural science and American history in new ways. To and community engagement to ensure 575-234-1353 learn more, visit www.nps.gov/webrangers. national parks are increasingly valued Guadalupe Mountains National Park by all. Brian Schwieger, Volunteer-In-Park Coordinator 915-828-3251 ext. 2311

2 Visitor Guide ...continued from page 1 Almost half of all species on earth are nocturnal! Nocturnal species are active at night and even depend on night. One such species at Carlsbad Caverns is the famous Brazilian Free-tailed bat (Tadarida Braziliensis). This bat is able to hunt the night skies for prey. While Brazilian Free-tailed bats can see, they do not rely on sight to hunt, instead they use echolocation. This allows the bats to “see” prey by bouncing sound off of objects. Since the Brazilian Free-tailed bat is active at night they avoid being eaten by diurnal (day active) predators. Bats are not the only animals that need night; people also benefit from night. Our circadian rhythms are attuned to light levels. Studies have shown the impor- tance of night and the effects of light pollution on human health.

You, too, can experience the majesty of the cosmos! Both Guadalupe Mountains and Carlsbad Caverns National Parks have an expansive view of the night. There are a Newly Created Guadalupe Ridge Trail, number of ways to share unique experiences A Partnership Between Community with your families and friends. A ranger- guided tour is one of them. Ask about night and Government Agencies sky programs at both parks. You can also The Guadalupe Ridge Trail stretches from White’s City, NM to the highest point in Texas, Guadalupe Peak. Above is a view from the Lincoln National Forest looking into Guadalupe Mountains National Park. take a self-guided tour of the stars by finding a good place to look up into the sky. Below By Michael Medrano Mack’s Social Studies class produced mar- The students very quickly gained a new ap- you can check to see which dates are best In May 2017, a partnership consisting of keting logos and business plans for startup preciation for resource conservation, visitor for viewing the stars (new moon and last federal land agencies and local community businesses that could be affiliated with the management, and business development. quarter) or night hiking (full moon and first organizations in Carlsbad, NM celebrated new trail. These students developed busi- The spatial data and attributes generated quarter). For more information go to https:// the designation of the Guadalupe Ridge Trail nesses that could accommodate the needs of by the students were assembled into a map www.nps.gov/subjects/nightskies/index.htm (GRT). Organizations involved in the effort hikers, providing such necessities as shuttle suitable for public presentation utilizing include: the National Park Service (NPS), services, outfitting, food and water delivery, geographic mapping software called ArcGIS. Moon Phases & Meteor Showers the U.S. Forest Service (USFS), the Bureau clothing accessories, and even pet services. Attribute data was made available to the re- of Land Management (BLM), the Carlsbad For the class mapping project, Hannah spective land management agencies for plan- September Full Moon (9/6), Last Quarter (9/13), New Moon (9/19), Au- Early College High School (CECHS), and Vanscotter’s science students were responsi- ning purposes, and the same data helped the tumnal Equinox (9/22), First the Carlsbad Chamber of Commerce. The ble for documenting trail and resource con- social studies students with their proposed Quarter (9/27) GRT runs from White’s City, through Carls- ditions on three segments of the GRT with business models. The students presented October Full Moon (10/5), First Quarter (10/12), New Moon (10/19), bad Caverns National Park, BLM land, the Global Positioning System units (GPS). The the results of their work to representatives Orionid Shower (10/21), First Lincoln National Forest, and Guadalupe students searched for plant and animal spe- of the federal agencies as well as the general Quarter (10/27) Mountains National Park terminating at cies of concern (rare/threatened species as public at the dedication of the GRT. All the November Full Moon (11/3), Last Quarter (11/10), Leonid Shower (11/17), Guadalupe Peak. At approximately 100 miles well as invasive species), infrastructure (trail students did a fantastic job of presenting New Moon (11/18), First Quar- long, the trail is being touted as an extreme intersections, signage, water bars, stairs), their findings and interacting with visitors ter (11/26) challenge even for experienced backpackers. archaeological resources, water sources, and dignitaries in a professional manner. December Full Moon (12/3), Last Quar- ter (12/10), Geminid Shower human impacts (graffiti) and hazardous or (12/13), New Moon (12/17) In February, after meeting with Principal potentially hazardous trail conditions (ero- The students of the Early College High Winter Solstice (12/21), Ursid Eric Spencer, Carlsbad Caverns National Shower (12/22), First Quarter sion). The tasks were designed to strengthen School are a group of highly motivated and (12/26) Park, and the Lincoln National Forest, not only the students’ GPS, field documen- intelligent young people. Hopefully some of January Full Moon (1/1), Quadrantid Guadalupe Mountains National Park staff tation, and observation skills, but also to those students, engaged by their experience Shower (1/3), Last Quarter (1/8), turned to the CECHS for help with the expose the students to the challenges facing on the GRT, will turn their career pursuits to New Moon (1/16), First Quarter (1/24), Full Moon (1/31) GRT’s marketing and field mapping. In land managers who manage trails and facili- entrepreneurial business and land manage- February Last Quarter (2/7), Partial So- turn, CECHS students learned real-world ties for the American public. The students ment, or even careers with public lands such lar Eclipse 92/15), New Moon advertising, marketing, and land manage- spent a combined total of over 1100 hours as the National Park Service, U.S. Forest (2/15), First Quarter (2/23) ment principles. Students from Gavin working on GRT issues and resources. Service, and BLM. Deadly Disease Continues to Kill Bats by Dale Pate Bats are important for ecosystems across of various colonies have been from 90 per- Everyone can help in the country and the world. They are excel- cent to 100 percent of all bats in that par- the following ways: lent pollinators and eat millions of tons of ticular colony. An additional concern is that Carlsbad Caverns National Park will be insects nightly. Some of these insects are WNS is spreading rapidly. It is now found in If you have been in a cave or mine that is increasing efforts to inform the public pests of food crops. A study completed in caves and mines in 31 states. known to harbor WNS, or if you have been about this devastating disease. Check the 1990’s on the Brazilian (Mexican) Free- in a cave or mine within a state known to have tailed bats from Carlsbad Cavern shows There are lots of unknowns concerning WNS, please do not bring any of the potential- when arriving at the park for any up- that 40 percent of the insects devoured by WNS. At this time, it does not appear to be ly contaminated items (clothing, gear, shoes) dates on WNS and what you can do these bats are crop pests taken along the affecting summer bat colonies such as Bra- used during that visit into Carlsbad Cavern or farmlands of the nearby Pecos River. Bats zilian Free-tailed bats for which Carlsbad other caves. to help prevent its continued spread to are important. Cavern is famous. We must all be vigilant. other areas and other bat species. States known to have WNS include: Unfortunately, beginning in the winter While it is known that transmission of the AL, AR, CT, DE, GA, IA, IL, IN, KY, MA, ME, of 2006-2007 in caves near Albany, New fungus is mostly from bat-to-bat, it may also MD, MI, MN, MO, NE, NH, NJ, NY, NC, York, a new and very deadly disease began be possible for humans to transport fungus OH, OK, PA, RI, SC, TN, VA, VT, WA, WI, to decimate bats that hibernate. Bat deaths spores on clothing, gear, shoes, or skin. and WV. Provinces in Canada known to have were immediately associated with a white WNS include New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, fungus growing around noses, ears, and on In an effort to slow down the spread of fungus Ontario, Prince Edward Island, and Quebec. wing membranes. This condition was later and give bat scientists more time to look for named “White-nose Syndrome” (WNS). a solution to this serious problem, Carlsbad If you are taking one of the ranger-guided off-trail Since 2006, over five million bats have Caverns National Park is asking visitors to trips offered by Carlsbad Caverns National Park, been killed by this disease and as of this caves in the park or the area to be aware of this please use the gear furnished by the park on those summer, WNS has been detected in nine problem and to help minimize the potential tours. Also, clean your shoes and other clothing species of bats that hibernate. Death rates spread of this deadly disease. before entering the cave.

Visitor Guide 3 Hiker Safety & Wildlife Mountain Lions If a lion is sighted, there are When you hike in mountain lion country: Travel in groups. Lions may key in on easy prey, like small children. Make sure children With their large size and very long tails, several things to remember: are close to you and within your sight at all times—do not let children run ahead of mountain lions are unmistakable. Adult • Do not approach a lion, especially one adults! Talk with children about lions and teach them what to do if they meet one. males may be more than 8 feet in length that is feeding or with kittens. Most and weigh an average of 150 pounds. Adult mountain lions will try to avoid con- females may be up to 7 feet long and weigh frontation. Give them a way to escape. an average of 90 pounds. Their • Stay calm; speak calmly yet firmly. tracks show 4 toes with 3 distinct lobes Move slowly. Avoid prolonged direct present at the base of the pad, which is eye contact. generally greater than 1.5 inches wide. • Face the lion and stand upright. Do all Claw marks are usually not visible since you can to appear larger. Raise your their claws are retractable. arms, or open your jacket. • Protect small children by picking them Mountain lions take their prey, usually up so they won’t panic and run. deer, by ambush. After spotting prey, a lion • Back away slowly, if you can do it safely. stalks using available cover, then attacks Do not run! Running may stimulate a with a rush, often from behind. They usu- lion’s instinct to chase and attack. ally kill with a powerful bite below the base • If the lion behaves aggressively, throw of the skull, breaking the neck, then drag stones, branches or whatever you can the carcass to a sheltered spot beneath a get your hands on without crouching tree or overhang to feed on it. Often they down or turning your back. Wave your cover the carcass with dirt or leaves and arms slowly and speak firmly. What you may return to feed on it over the course of want to do is convince the lion that you a few days. are not prey and that you may in fact be a danger to the lion. Although no one has had a physical en- • Fight back if a lion attacks you. People counter with a mountain lion at Guadalupe have fought back successfully with Mountains National Park, sightings have rocks, sticks, jackets, and their bare become more frequent in the last few years. hands. Protect your head and neck with Lions have increasingly shown more curi- your arms. Remain standing or try to osity about people and less fear. Even with get back up. this increased lion activity, your chance of • Please report all mountain lion sightseeing one of these elusive creatures is ex- ings to a park ranger. tremely low. A few simple precautions may reduce the risk of a dangerous encounter. Rattlesnakes Rattlesnakes are the only venomous snakes found in the Guadalupe Mountains. They are recognized by the triangular, flat head, wider than the neck; vertical, elliptical pupils, and a heat-sensitive “pit” located between the eye and the nostril. Rattles are generally present, but may be broken off.

To avoid rattlesnake bites, stay on trails where you are more easily able to see a snake. Watch where you put your hands and feet; look around before sitting down. If you see a rattlesnake, leave it alone. Alert other members of your party. Do not attempt to move it; simply walk around it and continue your hike.

Do not use these methods to treat a snakebite: —a tourniquet, which causes severe damage if wound too tightly. —cold or ice; it does not inactivate the venom and poses a frostbite hazard. —the “cut-and-suck” method; it can damage blood vessels and nerves. —mouth suction; your mouth is filled with bacteria, and you may infect the wound. —electric shock; no medical studies support this method. —alcoholic beverages, which dilate vessels and compound shock. Rattlesnakes are protected in National Parks; —aspirin, which increases bleeding. it is illegal to harm them. First aid for a snakebite: • Get the victim away from the snake. • Use a sling or a splint to immobilize the • If there are immediate, severe symp- cause infection and should be treated Rattlesnakes strike across a distance limb loosely; keep it below the level of toms, keep the victim quiet; activity by a physician. equal to half their body length and can the heart. increases venom absorption. Have • Transport the victim to a medical facil- bite more than once. Do not attempt to • Look for signs of envenomation: severe someone contact a ranger as soon as ity where antivenin is available. The capture or kill the snake. burning pain at the bite site; swelling possible to begin evacuation. closest facility to the park is Carlsbad • Remove constrictive jewelry such as starting within 5 minutes and progress- • If there is no immediate reaction, you Medical Center, at the north end of rings and watches. ing up the limb (swelling may continue may choose to walk slowly with the vic- Carlsbad, New Mexico on US 285 • Suction with a venom extractor is only to advance for several hours); discolor- tim to the trailhead. Begin evacuation as (2430 West Pierce); driving time is 1½ minimally effective and must be started ation and blood-filled blisters develop- quickly as possible; contact a ranger for hours from Pine Springs. within two to three minutes. Do not at- ing in 6 to 48 hours; and in severe cases, assistance. If evacuation is prolonged tempt oral suction or incising the skin. nausea, vomiting, sweating, weakness, and there are no symptoms after six to bleeding, coma, and death. In 25% of eight hours, there has probably been no rattlesnake bites, no venom is injected. envenomation. However, all bites can

To avoid rattlesnake bites, stay on trails where you are more easily able to see a snake.

4 Visitor Guide Hiker Safety for Different Weather Conditions Cold

Lightning Heat NPS Photo/Michael Haynie

Lightning may be the most awesome hazard The body balances heat loss against heat faced by hikers. In our area, storms are gain to keep the core body temperature common from May through September, and within narrow limits. With strenuous exer- usually occur in the late afternoon or early cise in hot climates, heat gain can exceed evening. You can estimate the distance of a loss. Core temperatures may rise, sometimes lightning strike in miles by counting the time to dangerous levels. Dehydration exacer- in seconds between flash and sound and bates heat illness. dividing by five. Heat Exhaustion develops over hours due The effects of being close to a lightning to water and electrolyte loss from sweating; strike may be minor, such as confusion, it causes collapse or gradual exhaustion with amnesia, numbness, tingling, muscle pain, an inability to continue to exercise. Symp- temporary loss of hearing or sight, and loss toms include headache, dizziness, fatigue, of consciousness. Severe injuries include nausea, vomiting, muscle cramps, rapid burns, paralysis, coma, and cardiac arrest. pulse, thirst and profuse sweating, goose- Since injuries may not be obvious initially— flesh, chills, and pale skin, and low blood burns and cardiac injury may not appear pressure—the victim may faint. until 24 hours after the lightning strike— medical observation is recommended for all Heatstroke occurs in people who undertake lightning victims. heavy exertion in hot climates, and results in sudden collapse with extreme elevation Decrease your risk of injury of body temperature, decreased mental NPS Photo/Michael Haynie from lightning: status, and shock. It is a medical emergency Hypothermia is a cooling of the body core during exercise; try to avoid sweating by • Get an early start so that you can finish that can kill; begin treatment immediately. when more heat is lost than is produced, wearing ventilated clothing. Watch for early your hike before storms erupt. Symptoms include headache, drowsiness, and can be life threatening. Wetness and signs of hypothermia, and act promptly • Be aware of current and predicted irritability, unsteadiness, confusion, convul- wind are a lethal combination that chill a to avert it. Gauge the day’s activity to the weather. Watch the sky for develop- sions, coma, a rapid pulse and low blood person more rapidly than dry cold. Hy- party’s weakest member; children are more ment of anvil-shaped cumulus clouds. pressure, and either dry or sweat-moistened pothermia can occur in any season of the prone to hypothermia than adults. Being If a storm is building, descend to lower hot skin. year: the hiker exposed to a sudden summer exhausted, hungry, dehydrated, or demoral- elevations. hailstorm while wearing only a T-shirt and ized prevents a proper response to cold and • If a storm occurs, seek shelter. A car or Prevention shorts is more likely to become hypothermic hastens the onset of hypothermia. large building offers good protection. Drink plenty of water when exercising in than a well-dressed winter hiker. Windchill Tents offer no protection. hot weather, before feeling thirsty and after adds to the problem, but affects only the ex- Treatment • Turn off cell phones and other elec- feeling satisfied. Drink enough to produce posed parts of the body. Wearing windproof • Do not delay. tronic equipment. clear urine regularly during the day. Eat high clothing reduces the effects of windchill. • Find shelter out of the wind. • If totally in the open, avoid single trees. carbohydrate foods for energy. Avoid heavy • Remove wet clothes and replace with Stay off exposed ridges. exercise in high temperatures and high Signs of mild hypothermia include progres- dry; add layers and a wool cap to in- • When caught in heavy lightning, the humidity. Wear light-colored clothes that sively worsening shivering, uncharacteristic crease insulation. best stance is to crouch with feet close fit loosely and cover all sun-exposed skin behavior, grumbling about feeling cold, • Give food and warm, sweet drinks. together, minimizing the opportunity surface. Avoid alcohol and caffeine; both inappropriate excitement or lethargy, poor • If the victim is shivering strongly, place for ground currents to find a path increase loss of fluid. judgement, confusion, and hallucinations. victim inside a sleeping bag well-insu- through the body. Crouch on a dry The victim may experience stiff muscles and lated from the ground. sleeping pad, if available. Treatment cramps, uncoordinated movements, and • If the victim responds to rest and • Stay out of shallow caves or overhangs. • Have the victim rest in the shade. stumbling. Skin will be cold, pale and blue- warmth, he may be able to continue Large dry caves which are deeper than • Remove excess clothing. gray due to constricted blood vessels. hiking. their width offer some protection; but • Wet the victim to increase evaporation. • For severe hypothermia, provide heat do not lean against walls. Adopt the • Have the victim drink fluids; if avail- As hypothermia becomes severe, shivering to the victim’s trunk after rescue by feet-together crouch. able, add 1/4 teaspoon salt and 6 tea- ceases. The victim’s behavior changes from whatever means are available—body- • Valleys and ditches offer some protec- spoons sugar to 1 quart of water. erratic to apathetic to unresponsive. The to-body contact, hot water bottles, tion. Avoid a depression with a stream. • In serious cases, begin immediate, pulse becomes weak, slow, and irregular. chemical heating pads, hot rocks • In forests, seek low spots under thick rapid cooling by one of these methods: Breathing slows, pupils become dilated. wrapped in clothing. Place the heat growth or smaller trees. a) Increase evaporation by sprinkling Eventually the victim will slip into a coma. sources in the groin and armpits and • Avoid standing water, fences, power water on the skin and fanning vigorously. alongside the neck. Always have cloth- lines, and pipelines. Discard metal hik- b) Immerse the victim’s body in cool water. Prevention ing between a heat source and the skin ing sticks. c) Place cold packs on the neck, Know the weather forecast; carry appro- to prevent burns. • Groups should not huddle together. abdomen, armpits, and groin. priate extra clothing, such as a water/wind • Never leave a hypothermic victim Scatter so if one person is injured, the • Stop cooling when mental status im- repellent shell, jacket, hat and mittens, and alone. others can help—stay at least 30 feet proves. Continue to monitor the victim. a space blanket or tarp for shelter. Evapora- • Contact a park ranger for assistance. apart. • Contact a park ranger for assistance. tion of sweat is a major source of heat loss

Visitor Guide 5 Carlsbad Caverns National Park Photography Carlsbad caverns routes & Tours

Photography is permitted on most tours; however, please use proper etiquette. Warn those around you before using a flash, and do not use the rocks as your personal tripod. For safety reasons, tripods are not allowed on any guided tours. Tripods are allowed in the Big Room, Main Corridor, or Natural Entrance. Do not use the ultra-bright lights available on some cameras. Electronic devices are not allowed at the Bat Flight Program NPS Photo/Peter Jones NPS Photo/ K risti Haynie offered from mid-May through October. NPS Photo/Peter Jones Entrance Fees Natural entrance Big Room Self-Guided Route king’s palace guided tour self-guided route Length: 1.25 miles, 1.5 hours Length: 1 mile, 1.5 hours Visit www.nps.gov/cave for dates and Length: 1.25 miles, 1 hour Fee: Entrance Fee Fee: Entrance Fee and $8.00 Tour Ticket times of tours, or call 575-785-2232. Fee: Entrance Fee Descend by elevator to start the tour in the (Half price for children, Senior Pass, and This hike is similar to walking into a steep Underground Rest Area. The non-skid trail Access Pass cardholders) Adults—age 16 and older...... $10.00 canyon (a descent of about 800 feet in one is paved and mostly level, although there Moderately strenuous. There is a steep Children—15 and younger...... free mile). It is recommended only for those are a couple of short, steep hills. All visitors eighty-foot hill you must go down initially plus Audio Guide...... $5.00 physically fit and healthy; sturdy footwear to Carlsbad Cavern should experience this and then back up at the end of the tour. required. Highlights include the Natural tour. Highlights include the Lion’s Tail, Hall Walk through four naturally-decorated All fees and tours are subject to change. chambers with a variety of cave formations Entrance, Devil’s Spring, Whale’s Mouth, of Giants, Bottomless Pit, and Rock of Ages. by descending to the deepest portion of the and Iceberg Rock. Some of this trail can be navigated by wheel- There is no entrance fee for those who cavern open to the public. Rangers briefly chairs, with assistance. The park does not own any of the following passes (up to turn off all lights to reveal the natural dark- three individuals plus the cardholder): provide wheelchairs. This trail can also be ness of the cave. The trail is paved. Sturdy The Annual Pass, Annual Pass (Military), Se- accessed after hiking the 1.25-mile Natural walking shoes required. Light jacket recom- nior Pass, Access Pass (all three are part of Entrance Self-Guided Route. mended. Tours depart from the Under- the America the Beautiful—National Parks ground Rest Area. & Federal Recreational Lands Pass), Golden Age Passport and Golden Access Passport AUDIO GUIDES all cover the basic entrance fee. Pass hold- Enhance your visit with an audio guide ers must still obtain free entry tickets. rental. As you tour the cavern, you will learn about the natural and cultural Entrance fee applies to self-guided tours. history of Carlsbad Caverns National Guided tours require an additional fee. Park.

Audio guide rentals are administered Reservations by Western National Parks Association We recommend that you make reserva- (WNPA), a non-profit organization. tions for guided tours at least six weeks in NPS Photo/Peter Jones The cost is $5.00. advance. Some tours fill quickly. Reserva- Lower cave tions are not necessary for self-guided Fee: Entrance Fee and $20.00 Tour Ticket tours. To make reservations call the Na- (Half price for children, Senior Pass, and Surface Activities tional Park Reservation System at: Access Pass cardholders) Services 877-444-6777 or Strenuous. Initial descent is ten feet down Facilities include a visitor center, exhibits, visit www.Recreation.gov a flowstone slope by knotted rope, then a bookstore, restaurant, gift shop and kennel fifty-foot descent down three sets of lad- service. Reserved tickets must be picked up no later ders. Bring three new AA alkaline batteries. than 30 minutes prior to the posted tour Sturdy, closed-toed shoes or hiking boots information & exhibits starting time. Tickets will not be issued if required. Helmets and headlamps provided. Elevation 4,408 feet. The visitor center is

within ten minutes of the start of any tour. NPS Photo/Peter Jones Backpacks not allowed. Not recommended open daily 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Closed No refunds for late arrivals. for anyone with a fear of enclosed spaces, Left-Hand Tunnel Thanksgiving, December 25, and January 1. heights, or darkness. Tours depart from the Fee: Entrance Fee and $7.00 Tour Ticket Last ticket sales at 3:15 p.m. Have a Safe Tour (Half price for children, Senior Pass, and Access visitor center. Cave temperature is 56° F (13° C) year- Pass cardholders) round. A light jacket or sweater and good Moderately strenuous. This is a historic walking shoes are recommended. Do not candle-lit lantern tour through an undevel- Nature Trail wear sandals. For your safety: oped section of the cave on unpaved trails. This one-mile paved, partially wheelchair The dirt trail winds over uneven surfaces accessible trail begins near the visitor center • Stay on the paved trail. with some steep, slippery slopes. Careful and highlights desert plants. • Supervise children closely; children footing is required to navigate on steep, slip- under 16 must remain with an adult pery slopes, around cavern pools and fragile Scenic Drive at all times. formations. Not recommended for anyone A one-hour drive through the Chihuahuan • Ask park rangers for help. who has difficulty seeing in dim-lit or can- Desert, this 9.5-mile gravel road is suitable • Take prescribed medications with you. dle-lit conditions. Lanterns are provided. for high clearance vehicles. Brochures are • High humidity in the cave can af- Sturdy closed-toed shoes or hiking boots

NPS Photo/Dale Pate available at the visitor center information fect respiratory problems; bring your required. No backpacks. Tour departs from desk. The scenic drive is open 1/2 hour be- inhaler just in case. the visitor center. Slaughter canyon cave • If you are diabetic, be sure you have Fee: $15.00 Tour Ticket fore sunrise and closes 1/2 hour after sunset. eaten enough calories. (Half price for children, Senior Pass, and These hours are subject to change. • If you have an infant with you, child- Access Pass cardholders) carrying backpacks are recommended. Rattlesnake Springs Strollers are not allowed. Strenuous. Tour meets at the visitor center. This historic oasis includes a picnic area, • Leave your pet at the kennel, not in Participants will then caravan to the cave shade trees, restrooms and excellent bird your car. site. Participants must hike a steep, rocky, watching. Located 5.5 miles south of White’s City on Highway 62/180, then 2.5 miles west Protect the Cave and uneven 1/2 mile trail with 500' eleva- on County Road 418. Day use only. • Never touch, tap or handle the cave tion gain to the cave entrance. Bring water formations; the oils on your skin dam- and sunscreen for the hike. The tour is slip- age the formations. pery, muddy, and requires an ascent of a Hiking & camping • Never take gum, tobacco, food, or 15� slope using a knotted rope. Must wear The park’s wilderness offers day hikes and drinks other than plain water into the sturdy, closed-toed hiking boots or shoes. backcountry camping (permit required). cave. Bring three AA batteries. Helmets and head- Rangers at the visitor center can provide free • Never throw coins or other objects lamps are provided. permits, trail and weather information, and into the pools. backcountry camping tips. The bookstore Carry water—weather may be very hot in sells topographic maps, which are consid- summer and very cold in winter. Stay on the ered essential for desert hiking. trail and wear sturdy hiking shoes.

4 6Visitor Visitor Guide Guide Carlsbad Caverns National Park For Tour Reservations call 877-444-6777 or TDD 1-877-833-6777 Tour Trail Surface Tour Dates and Times Adult Fee Age Limit Tour Length Group Size King’s Palace Paved Trail; 80 foot hill Due to repairs to the elevators that are underway at the Adults $8 4 1.5 hours 55 must be climbed on time of printing, visit www.nps.gov/cave for dates and Children (4-15), Senior Pass, and return trip times for all tours, or call 575-785-2232. Access Pass cardholders $4

A General Admission Ticket is also Meet at the Under- ground Rest Area required. Left Hand Tun- Uneven dirt trail and slip- $7.00 and General Admission Ticket 6 2 hours 15 nel pery slopes ($3.50 ages 6-15, Senior Pass, and Meet at the visitor center Access Pass holders) Lower Cave Must negotiate fifty feet $20.00 and General Admission Ticket 12 3 hours 12 of ladders, low light, and ($10.00 ages 12-15, Senior Pass, and Meet at the visitor center slippery, dirt trails. Might Access Pass holders) get dirty. Slaughter Can- Strenuous climb required $15.00 8 5.5 hours 20 yon Cave to reach cave entrance. ($7.50 ages 8-15, Senior Pass, and Access Meet at the visitor center Trail in cave is slippery, Pass holders) uneven and rocky.

Bat Flight Programs (May-october) A few hundred thousand bats fly from Carlsbad Cavern each eve- To protect the bats, all electronic ning from mid-May to the end of October, when they migrate to devices like cameras, cell phones, Mexico. The ranger program generally begins each evening 30 to 60 and camcorders are prohibited minutes before sunset at the park amphitheater, though weather and at the Bat Flight Program. lightning can cause cancellation of the program. Check at the visitor This rule is strictly enforced. center for the exact time the program starts or call 575-236-1374.

America the Beautiful: The National Parks & Federal Recreational Lands Pass

Annual Pass Annual Pass—military Senior passes access pass The annual pass sells for $80.00 The Military annual pass is free Any U.S. citizen or permanent You can now purchase a $20 An- The Access Pass is available for free and is good for one year from to U.S. Military members with a resident of the United States 62 nual Senior Pass. The Annual Pass to any U.S. citizen or permanent date of purchase. The pass cov- current CAC card, and their de- years or older may purchase the is good for one full year from the resident of any age that has been ers entrance fees at National Park pendents with ID card Form 1173. Annual Senior Pass or Lifetime date of purchase. You can also pur- medically determined to have a Service and U.S. Fish & Wildlife The card is good for one year from Senior Pass. chase a $80 Lifetime Senior Pass. permanent disability. sites and standard amenity fees the date it is obtained. The pass The Lifetime Pass does not need to at Bureau of Land Management, covers entrance fees at National It covers the entrance fees to Na- be renewed. The Access Pass covers the en- Bureau of Reclamation and U. S. Park Service and U.S. Fish & Wild- tional Park Service and U.S. Fish & trance fees to National Park Ser- Forest Service sites. The pass can life sites and standard amenity fees Wildlife sites and standard amenity A Lifetime Senior Pass can be vice and U.S. Fish & Wildlife sites be purchased at federal recreation at Bureau of Land Management, fees at Bureau of Land Manage- purchased anytime for $80. and standard amenity fees at Bu- sites that charge entrance or stan- Bureau of Reclamation and U. S. ment, Bureau of Reclamation, and Four Annual Senior Passes may reau of Land Management, Bureau dard amenity fees. Forest Service sites. The pass can U. S. Forest Service Sites. Some be exchanged for a free Lifetime of Reclamation, and U.S. Forest be obtained at federal recreation camping and guided tour fees are Senior Pass. Service Sites. Some camping and sites that charge entrance or stan- discounted 50% for cardhold- guided tour fees are discounted dard amenity fees. ers. The pass can be purchased at 50% for cardholders. The free pass federal recreation sites that charge can be obtained upon signing a entrance or standard amenity fees. medical affidavit at federal recreation sites that charge entrance or standard amenity fees. guadalupe mountains National Park annual pass Every Kid in a Park (EKIP) Passes year, but may not visit other federal EKIP paper pass, and is valid for the pass holder and up to 3 people fee areas. the duration of the 4th grade school who are 16 and older (for a maxi- year through the following summer mum of four people). Anyone 15 The pass covers entrance fees and (September -August). and younger is free of charge. is good for 3 individuals plus the cardholder (persons 15 years and These passes are honored nation- Paper passes can be obtained by vis- younger are free with or without Any 4th grader who is a U.S. citizen wide at Forest Service, National iting the Every Kid in a Park website Guadalupe Mountains National the Guadalupe Mountains NP or permanent resident (or 10 year- Park Service, Bureau of Land Man- (www.everykidinapark.gov.) Park offers an annual pass for Annual Pass). The pass is available old for those who are in alternative agement, Bureau of Reclamation, Paper passes should be exchanged $20.00 for visitors who plan on for purchase at the park at the Pine school environments) may complete and US Fish & Wildlife Service sites for a plastic 4th Grade Pass; howev- visiting the park more than once a Springs Visitor Center. the education material on the Every charging entrance or standard ame- er, paper passes are also considered Kid in a Park website nity fees. valid passes. (www.everykidinapark.gov) to obtain a free EKIP pas. It is available They admit the pass holder and any Digital versions of the paper pass to U.S. 4th graders (including home- accompanying passengers in a pri- (such as on smart phones or tablets) schooled and free-choice learners vate non-commercial vehicle. will not be accepted to exchange for 10 years of age) who present a valid At per-person fee sites, they admit an Annual 4th Grade Pass.

Visitor Guide 7 Visitor Guide 5 Guadalupe Mountains National Park Entrance Fee $5.00/person (16 & older) Free for Senior, Access, and Annual Pass cardholders NPS Photo NPS Photo/Dave Bieri NPS Photo/Dave Bieri NPS Photo/Michael Haynie services hiking camping backpacking Facilities and services within and near Gua- Pinery Trail Water and restrooms are available, but there Eighty-five miles of trails lead through for- dalupe Mountains National Park are ex- Distance: .67 mile are no showers, RV hookups, or dump sta- ests, canyons, and desert to ten backcountry tremely limited. The nearest gas stations are Difficulty: Easy, wheelchair accessible, slight tions. The fee is $8.00 per night, per site, campgrounds. A free permit is required if 43 miles west (Dell City, TX), 35 miles east incline on return trip. $4.00 with a Senior Pass (or existing Golden you plan to spend a night in the backcountry. (White’s City, NM), or 65 miles south (Van Age Passport) or Access Pass (or exist- Permits are issued at the Pine Springs Visitor Horn, TX). There is no campstore; bring Discover the desert as you walk to the ruins ing Golden Access Passport). No wood or Center and the Dog Canyon Ranger Station. everything you need with you. of the Pinery, a stagecoach station on the charcoal fires are permitted; camp stoves are For those coming through Carlsbad, Dog Butterfield Overland Mail Route in 1858. allowed. Canyon is a great place to begin a backpack- Information & Exhibits Trailside exhibits. This is the only trail pets ing trip because it requires less elevation Pine Springs Visitor Center on leash are allowed. Pine Springs Campground gain to get into the backcountry. Elevation 5,730'. On Highway 62/180, 55 Located near the Pine Springs Visitor miles southwest of Carlsbad, 110 miles east McKittrick Canyon Trail Center, there are twenty tent and nineteen Wood and charcoal fires are prohibited. of El Paso, and 65 miles north of Van Horn Distance: to Pratt Cabin 4.8 miles roundtrip, RV campsites (including a wheelchair ac- Camp stoves are allowed. Pack out all your on Highway 54 and Highway 62/180. Open to the Grotto, 6.8 miles roundtrip cessible tent site) available on a first-come, trash. Pets are not allowed on park trails. every day except December 25. Open daily Difficulty: Moderate, level but rocky trail, first-served basis . Two group campsites are 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. (Mountain Time 200' elevation gain to Grotto. available for groups of 10-20 people. Reser- Preparation is the key to an enjoyable back- Zone). Information, natural history exhibits, vations (for group sites only) can be made packing trip. Be prepared for changing introductory slide program. Follow an intermittent stream through the by phoning 915-828-3251 x2124 up to two weather conditions. Carry plenty of water— desert and canyon woodlands to the his- months in advance. Campers planning on there are no water sources in the backcoun- Frijole Ranch History Museum toric Pratt Cabin. A guidebook is available day hiking in McKittrick Canyon, to Guada- try. Topographic maps, hikers’ guides, and The ranch house features exhibits describ- at the trailhead. The Grotto Picnic Area and lupe Peak or the Bowl will want to stay here. information can be found at the Pine Springs ing historic and current use of the Guada- Hunter Line Cabin are one mile beyond the Visitor Center and the Dog Canyon Ranger lupes. Grounds include a picnic area near Pratt Cabin. Please do not drink the water Dog Canyon Campground Station. a spring shaded by large oak trees. Open or wade in the creek. To protect this fragile Located at the end of New Mexico Highway intermittently. environment, you are required to stay on the 137, 70 miles from Carlsbad and 110 miles Horseback Riding trail. from Park Headquarters, at an elevation of Sixty percent of the park’s trails are open to McKittrick Canyon 6,290' in a secluded, forested canyon on the stock use. A backcountry permit is required Highway entrance gate is open 8:00 a.m. to Guadalupe Peak Trail for all stock use. These free permits are is- 4:30 p.m. Mountain Standard Time. During north side of the park. The campground has sued at the Pine Springs Visitor Center and Daylight Savings Time, hours are expanded Distance: 8.4 miles nine tent and four RV campsites (including Dog Canyon Ranger Station. Stock riding is 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Restrooms, outdoor Difficulty: Strenuous. Approximately 3,000' a wheelchair accessible tent site). There is limited to day trips only. exhibits, slide program, picnic tables. elevation gain, steep, rocky path. one group site for groups of 10-20 people. Reservations for the group site only can be Hike Safely... Stock corrals are available at Dog Canyon and Hike to the “Top of Texas” at 8,751' for spec- • There is no water available along made up to two months in advance by call- near Frijole Ranch. Each has four pens and park trails, so be sure to bring plenty tacular views. Avoid the peak during high ing 915-828-3251 x2124. will accommodate a maximum of 10 animals. with you. One gallon per person per winds and thunderstorms. During warm Reservations may be made two months in day is recommended. temperatures, carry a gallon of water per advance by calling 915-828-3251 ext. 2124. • Trails are rocky—wear sturdy shoes. person. Trekking poles are recommended. • Carry a trail map. • Pack warm clothing and rain gear; other popular hikes... sudden weather changes are com- Trailhead Trail Distance Description mon. Roundtrip Pine Springs Devil’s Hall Trail 4.2 miles Moderate to Strenuous. Hike in Pine Spring Canyon to the Hikers’ Staircase and Devil’s Hall. Protect the Park... After the first mile, the trail drops into the wash and becomes very rocky and uneven. Turn left • Stay on trails; don’t cut across and follow the canyon bottom to the Hiker’s Staircase and a beyond to the Devil’s Hall. Area switchbacks or create new trails. beyond Devil’s Hall closed March - August due to sensitive species. • Carry out all trash, including ciga- rette butts. The Bowl 8.5 miles Strenuous. The Bowl shelters a highcountry conifer forest. Recommended route: Tejas Trail, • Report any trail hazards to the Pine Bowl Trail, Hunter Peak, Bear Canyon Trail, Frijole Trail, Tejas Trail (.1mile) back to campground. Springs Visitor Center or any park Trail climbs 2,500'. Bear Canyon Trail is very rocky and extremely steep. staff member. El Capitán Trail 11.3 miles Moderate to Strenuous. Desert lovers will appreciate the rocky arroyos and open vistas while • Collecting of natural, historic or skirting along the base of El Capitán. Recommended route: El Capitán Trail, Salt Basin Overlook, prehistoric objects is prohibited. and return to Pine Springs on the El Capitán Trail. Frijole Ranch Manzanita Spring .4 miles Easy. Path is paved and wheelchair accessible. Hike to a small pond that serves as a desert oasis. Weather Dragonflies, butterflies, and birds are active here in the warmer months. During winter, bluebirds frequent the area. Opportunities for chancing upon other wildlife are higher here as well. Average Average Smith Spring Trail 2.3 miles Moderate. Look for birds, deer and elk as you pass Manzanita Spring on the way to the shady Temperature (° F) Rainfall (entire loop) oasis of Smith Spring. Trees around Smith Spring include madrones, maples, oaks, chokecherry, High Low Inches ponderosa pines and others. Jan 56 34 0.67 McKittrick McKittrick Nature 0.9 miles Moderate. Climb the foothills and learn about the natural history of the Chihuahuan Desert. Feb 59 36 0.90 Canyon Loop Trailside exhibits. Mar 65 41 0.58 Permian Reef Trail 8.4 miles Strenuous. For serious geology buffs, this trail has stop markers that can be used with a geol- Apr 73 48 0.60 ogy guidebook sold at the Visitor Center. There are excellent views into McKittrick Canyon from May 82 56 0.91 the ridgetop. Trail climbs 2,000'. June 88 62 2.18 Dog Canyon Indian Meadow 0.6 miles Easy. Enjoy a stroll around a meadow frequented by a variety of birds and other wildlife. Along Nature Loop the way you will see evidence of recent fires and regrowth. July 88 64 2.37 Marcus Overlook 4.6 miles Moderate. Follow the Bush Mountain Trail to the ridgetop for a view into West Dog Canyon. Aug 86 63 3.29 Trail climbs 800'. Sep 81 58 2.54 Lost Peak 6.4 miles Strenuous. Climb out of Dog Canyon on the Tejas Trail to visit the conifer forest above. Out- Oct 73 50 1.34 standing views from Lost Peak. Lost Peak is a short distance off trail to the right, before the Nov 63 41 0.97 horse hitches. Trail climbs 1,500'. Dec 56 33 1.05 Salt Basin Salt Basin Dunes 3-4 miles Moderate. Follow the old roadbed from the parking area, for a little over a mile, to the north Average annual precipitation 17.4 Dunes (Day Use Only) end of the dune field. There is one high dune to ascend that some may find difficult. No shade. for Pine Springs (1980-2003) Enjoy the contrast of the pure white dunes with the sheer cliffs of the the Guadalupes as a back- drop. Great for sunrise or sunset hikes all year, and daytime hikes during the winter.

68 Visitor Guide McKittrick Canyon—the most beautiful spot in Texas McKittrick Canyon is one of the best places to witness the diversity of life found in the Guadalupe Mountains. This is an extremely scenic hike through a canyon that contains a year-round, spring-fed stream. It will intro- duce hikers to the extremely unique riparian woodland ecosystem. It is especially beautiful in fall when the bigtooth maples are turning various shades of red, orange, and yellow. This normally occurs mid-October to mid- November.

This is a moderate hike with minimal elevation gain. It will take from four to five hours to complete the roundtrip hike, depending on how far up the canyon you choose to go. The hike to Pratt Cabin is a 4.8 mile roundtrip that will take from two to three hours to complete. The hike to the Grotto is a 6.8 mile roundtrip that will take from four to five hours to complete.

The first mile of the hike is open desert, but further in the canyon you will see an increase in the number and type of trees...bigtooth maples, chinkapin oaks, Texas madrones, velvet ash. Some crossings of the creekbed are dry and those that are wet, have stepping stones to help you across. Which crossings are wet versus dry changes from year to year and during the season. Rainfall levels are highest in the summer and lowest in the spring.

Beyond Pratt Cabin, where geologist Wal- lace Pratt made his summer vacation home, the trail continues through a dense riparian woodland alongside the stream that makes this canyon unique. The Grotto provides a beautiful spot to have a picnic lunch alongside the stream. Several old historic stone tables and benches make it a comfortable spot to take a rest break. Just a short walk beyond the Grotto is the historic Hunter Line Cabin.

Hikers will also have the option of continuing a bit further beyond the Grotto to the Notch. Beyond the Grotto, the trail begins to climb in elevation, getting quite steep below the Notch. The Notch is approximately 1.5 miles beyond the Grotto with an additional elevation gain of 8oo feet. The Notch provides fantastic views of South McKittrick Canyon.

The stone-roofed Pratt Cabin is the perfect place for a rest and a picnic. Visitor Guide 9 plied. Concord coaches and Celerity wagons At one stop, there was a delay in changing were the main vehicles used on the route and the teams because the wild mules had to be Stagecoaching were on the move both day and night. Most caught and harnessed. Several hours of their passengers had trouble sleeping the first couple advanced time was lost. Ormsby wrote that of nights, but after that, they would sleep from when they got underway, “the mules reared, Was No Picnic sheer exhaustion. pitched, twisted, whirled, wheeled, ran, stood still, and cut up all sorts of capers. The Two meals a day were served at an extra cost to wagon performed so many revolutions, that I, the passengers and could come at any time of in fear for my life, abandoned it and took to my the day or night, so the passengers were en- heels, fully confident that I could make more couraged to bring their own food. Passengers progress in a straight line, with much less risk never knew if they were getting breakfast or of breaking my neck.” dinner, but it really didn’t matter because most of the meals were similar; beans, jerky, hard The threat of Indian attacks was always present on the stage routes. Ormsby noted that on a 40 tack, and black coffee. Once in a while, some of mile stretch through barren plains with clumps Traces of the Butterfield Overland Mail Route and the ruins of one of its stations are still evident in the park. the stations would have vegetables, eggs, milk, of scrub oaks, weeds, and grass, the only out- and honey, but those were few and far between. By Sherri Ramseyer northerners favored the northern route and of-the-ordinary thing was a Comanche woman Guadalupe Mountains National Park is not the southerners favored the southern route, riding “straddle” and cows taking care of Waterman Lilly Ormsby, a special correspon- just a pretty place with mountains, desert, and so much so that the Civil War almost broke themselves. Even though the Indians didn’t at- dent of the New York Herald from September trees. It has a history of occupation, explora- out then rather than three years later when Ft. tack the stage on this first trip, the drivers were 26 to November 19, 1858, was the first and only tion, and settlement that started thousands of Sumter was fired upon. always aware that they were being watched through passenger on the first west-bound years ago. One of the driving forces behind the from the top of the mountains and behind the stage. His accounts of the first Butterfield Over- development and settlement of the West was James Birch was awarded the bid for the south- rocks. More often the Indians would attack land Mail Route were informative and sometimes the Butterfield Overland Stage Route. It was ern route which was nicknamed the “Ox-Bow the stations, taking stock and food and killing amusing. initiated to enable travel across the continent Route” because it was not a direct route to the people at the stations. More than 50 employees were killed, hundreds of animals sto- and to connect the East coast with the West San Francisco. Instead, it was a big bow to “We now came to a patch of woods through len, and many stations looted and burned by coast with a way to exchange information. The the south. The southern route was preferred which the road was torturous and stony, but our Indians. The ruins of the Pinery Station here trials and tribulations of this precursor of the because it would avoid the Rocky Mountains driver’s ambition to make good time overcame in the Guadalupe Mountains were reportedly Pony Express were many. and much snow in the winter. Birch made sure his caution, and away we went, bounding over the burned by Mescalero Apaches in 1860. the first delivery was on its way from the west stones at a fearful rate. The moon shone brightly, “Remember boys, nothing on God’s earth and then he boarded the steamer on August but its light was obstructed by the trees, and the The Civil War and removal of the troops from must stop the United States mail!” John Butter- 20th headed for Panama. Passengers from driver had to rely much on his knowledge of the the forts as well as the confiscation of the Over- field gave his employees these last instructions the steamer were transferred to the Panama road for a guide. To see the heavy mail wagon land property and stations by the Secessionists before September 16, 1858, when Butterfield railroad for the four hour trip across the isth- whizzing and whirling over the jagged rocks put an end to the great Butterfield Overland personally loaded the first bags of mail onto a mus. Then they boarded the luxury steamer in through such a labyrinth, in comparative dark- Mail in March of 1861. Stock, coaches, and beautiful, new Concord Stagecoach. He hand- Central America for the long trip to New York. ness, and to feel oneself bouncing—now on the equipment were transferred to the Central ed the bags to his son, John Jr., who was the The ship got caught in a storm by the South hard seat, now against the roof, and now against Route run by Wells Fargo who Butterfield first driver of the westbound stage from Tipton, Carolina coast and went down. Four hundred the side of the wagon—was no joke, I assure you, owed money to. though, I can truthfully say that I rather liked the Missouri to San Francisco, with El Paso (then passengers and crew were lost, including James excitement of the thing. But it was too dangerous called Franklin), being the midway point. Birch. The Butterfield Overland Mail Route, thepre - to be continued without accident, and soon two cursor to the Pony Express and the transconti- heavy thumps and a bound of the wagon that The conductor cried, “All aboard,” blew his After James Birch’s death, a new contract was nental railroad, was the driving force for settle- unseated us all, and a crashing sound, denoted coach horn, and the first westbound coach was awarded for the southern route to John But- ment and development of the West. The that something had broken.” It turned out to be Pinery has the designation of being the only on its way at 6:15 pm, just a few minutes late. terfield, even though he had only bid on central the tongue of the wagon and at the next station it The eastbound stage left San Francisco more routes. The contract was for $600,000 a year was fixed, but it took more time to fix it than the ruin of an original company built Butterfield than 24 hours ahead of schedule. with the stipulation that the route had to be time the driver saved at going fast. Moral: “Make Station standing on the route in close proxim- run from St. Louis to San Francisco in 25 days, haste slowly!” ity to a national highway. The Pinery is listed in John Butterfield was born in 1801 in Albany semi-weekly. The Butterfield Overland Stage the National Register of Historic Places. County, New York. He had a love for horses was the longest in the world, over 2,800 miles. and coaches, even as a young man. His first A branch line came from Memphis, Tennessee Hints for Plains Travelers job was as a driver and runner for a coach firm and met at Fort Smith, Arkansas to go on to San —from an article in the Omaha Herald (1877) where he was to lure passengers away from the Francisco. At the beginning of the route, fares competition. He soon became well-known for the eastbound passengers were $100, for Don’t smoke a strong pipe inside, and well-regarded throughout New England as people going west, $200. Later the fares were especially in the morning. a great runner and driver. changed to $150 both ways.

Butterfield saved his money and soon was able Many editorials in the newspapers thought Spit on the leeward side of the coach. to purchase his own horse and a two-seated that the proposed schedule could not be kept. carriage that he used for his own livery service “Human ingenuity cannot devise a plan for business. He and his wife Malinda Harriet such an unheard of achievement… It never Don’t swear nor lop over Baker invested in a boarding house along with has been done. It never will be done.” Despite on your neighbor when sleeping. his thriving livery service. Butterfield soon protests, John Butterfield started building his became owner of controlling interest in several stage line. It’s no wonder most people doubted New York stage lines. that the route would be on schedule. Butter- Don’t ask how far it is field had just one year to get the line ready to go California’s population was growing by leaps and it was a monumental task—almost half of to the next station until you get there. and bounds because of the gold rush in Sac- the 2,800 route was in wilderness! The whole ramento in 1848. By 1851, the estimated new route had to be surveyed, some roads needed arrivals to California was 300,000. There was improvement, and some roads had to be built. Never attempt to fire a gun or pistol while on the road, an increased need for a better mail delivery Bridges had to be built over streams. Two it may frighten the team. system. The one in place back then was a semi- hundred stations had to be built, stocked with monthly steamer service between New York food and equipment for repairs, wells had to and California by way of the Isthmus of Pan- be dug, and water had to be brought in where Don’t discuss politics or religion nor point out places on ama. The trip averaged about 3 ½ to 4 weeks wells were not possible. Butterfield spent one the road where horrible murders have been committed, by steamer. There was a land route between million dollars in preparing the line for opera- Sacramento and Salt Lake City where it con- tion, buying 1,000 horses, 500 mules, 800 sets if delicate women are among the passengers. nected with another carrier to Independence, of harnesses, 500 coaches and utility wagons. MO, but that one took 2 months and had no room for passengers. Then people had to be hired to drive the Don’t growl at the food at the stations, coaches, to man the stations, to have meals stage companies generally provide the best they can get. In 1856, Aaron Brown was appointed post ready for passengers, and to have teams of master general. He advertised for bids on a horses or mules ready for hitching up to the new overland mail route. Nine proposals were coaches. Most of the stations were about 20 Don’t grease your hair before starting received, three of those were from John But- miles apart. While only some stations were terfield all for central routes. One proposal meal stations, all were “change” stations where or dust will stick there in sufficient quantities was from James Birch for a more southern they could get a fresh team of horses or mules. to make a respectable “tater patch.” route from Memphis to San Francisco. The About every 300 miles, a new coach was sup-

10 Visitor Guide Wildland Caving Opportunities in the Lincoln National Forest By Brad Bolton

Do you like a challenge and to Imagine starting out on a caving trip to Lincoln to travel where you rely on your own wits National Forest; things can be very different. and physical strength to climb and negotiate Like many National Forests, primitive roads through cave passages? For folks who really en- provide driving access into some very remote joy ‘wild caving’-type of trips, there are many areas. These roads can be extremely rough adventures to be found in nearby Lincoln and many folks opt to get out and hike along National Forest. the beautiful ridgetops. Primitive camping is allowed almost everywhere and car camping is The Lincoln National Forest manages nu- allowed within 300’ of most roads. After find- merous caves, many of which are in the same ing the perfect campsite, high in the Guadalupe mountains shared with the two national parks. Mountains, the next task is actually finding While nothing can compare to Carlsbad Cav- the caves themselves. There are no established erns, many Forest Service caves are spectacu- trails that take visitors to wild caves so finding lar, unique, and world renowned for exquisite the cave entrance can be an extensive search formations. In addition, many caves have along the side of a steep canyon, with the vertical entrances requiring rapeling and rope added challenges of orienteering and following work to enter! New discoveries are made yearly maps. To help groups find caves and promote as scientists come to the Lincoln to study the conservation, Lincoln National Forest facili- geology and biology of caves. The caves are in tates a public trip leader program. Members of a completely natural setting nestled in the high the National Speleological Society (NSS) with mountains and deep canyons. Visiting caves in extensive cave experience lead others to find the Lincoln National Forest can be challenging new adventures. and remote, requiring specialized equipment, weeks of planning, and extensive training. If ‘wild caving’ sounds like fun, there is an easy way to get started and it starts right where you Below ground, management of backcountry live. There are caving clubs called “Grottos” lo- caves is very similar for the different agencies. cated across the country as part of the National That is because the same 1988 Cave Protection Speleological Society or NSS. Finding and Act is the federal law that requires manage- contacting one of these Grottos is a click away ment of significant caves for all national parks at www.caves.org. There you will find a U.S. and National Forests. Lincoln National Forest map and contact information for caving enthu- promotes conservation by facilitating a back- siasts from across the country. The National country cave permit system, and by coordinat- Speleological Society is a great partner organi- ing volunteers from the National Speleological zation and NSS Grottos provide the necessary Society who monitor the caves for research, training and education needed for visiting the wildlife conservation, and preventing misuse. backcountry caves of Lincoln National Forest. Visiting caves in the Lincoln National Forest can be challenging and remote, requiring specialized equipment, weeks of planning, and extensive training. Sitting Bull Falls (Lincoln National Forest)

By Jerermy Evans The Guadalupe Ranger District, The Guadalupe Mountains sit on the north- Come and enjoy Sitting Bull falls and the southern-most district of the Lincoln Na- ern edge of the Chihuahuan Desert and has a the surrounding area. Take a hike on the tional Forest, has many spectacular recreation rich and diverse geologic and archaeological opportunities. Remote, quiet and mysterious, history. American Indians first came into the many trails or relax and have a picnic the District beckons the visitor to explore this area around 10,000 years ago and the Mes- with your family. Whatever you decide unique desert landscape. The Guadalupe calero Apache called the area their home for to do, your adventure to the Guadalupe Ranger District shares its southern boundary many, many years. Then Spanish explorers with two national parks; Guadalupe Moun- came to the area around the 1500s, bringing Ranger District will be memorable. tains and Carlsbad Caverns. Hiking, camping, horses, which proved to be very valuable to the Don’t forget to come prepared. Bring hunting, bird watching, and horseback riding Apache. By the mid-1800s explorers, settles, are just some of the incredible activities that ranchers, businessmen, cattleman, and out- plenty of water and pay attention! Deer, can be enjoyed on the district. One of the laws had migrated into the area. Because of javelina, mountain lions, snakes, taran- recreational highlights is Sitting Bull Falls Rec- the rough and remote terrain, the Guadalupe tulas, rabbits, and many other animal reation Area. It sits at the end of a long remote Mountains were settled very slowly. canyon and has a series of waterfalls (fed from species call the area home. If you decide springs atop the canyon) that create a large In the 1930’s the Civilian Conservation Corps to go out and explore the backcountry, pool of water at the base of the falls, which is was assigned to the area and built impressive please go prepared, the weather in this 150 feet from top to bottom. The Sitting Bull stone structures that still stand today as the pic- Falls Recreation Area meets ADA guidelines for nic sites at Sitting Bull Falls. The 1970s ushered area can be unpredictable and so can accessibility and some of the features include in a little more development, crews installed the wildlife! Please be safe and enjoy paved sidewalks, restrooms, picnic tables, rock vault restrooms, added more cabanas and im- cabanas, fresh water, trash containers, and a proved the trail to the falls. In the 1980s a route YOUR National Forest. viewing deck of the waterfall. to the top of the falls was built by the Youth Conservation Corps. Then on Easter Sunday Sitting Bull Falls and the surrounding land- of 2011 the Last Chance Fire burned through It is a day-use area and is open from 9 - 5 daily area, but is allowed almost anywhere else on scape are the remnants of an ancient reef, the area, severely damaging the picnic cabanas from October to March and 8:30 - 6 from the Guadalupe Ranger District. known as Capitan Reef. Approximately 260 and destroying the trees and vegetation. Sitting April to September; the standard amenity million years ago the area was on the edge of Bull Falls was closed for a year while repairs fee is a bargain at $5 per vehicle. Visitors can If you have questions, please visit the Gua- a huge inland sea. The predominant geology were made and then reopened only to be dam- wade in the water below the falls, hike, or dalupe Ranger District office located at 5203 of the area is limestone and is full of fissures aged again by a flood event in September of picnic. The picnic sites have tables and grills, Buena Vista Drive in Carlsbad, or call 575-885- and caves that were slowly eroded by acidic 2013. Again in 2014, another flood delayed re- but you’ll need to bring your own charcoal 4181. water over long periods of time. Also, deep and construction efforts. Finally, by May of 2015, all and also be aware of any fire danger warnings. rough canyons have been carved by annual reconstruction and repairs were completed. A Many of the picnic sites provide overhead Sitting Bull Falls is approximately 42 miles west flooding and rains. Other geologic forces have new walkway was built to the falls which leads shelter from the sun’s rays that bear down on of Carlsbad, New Mexico and can be reached created picturesque valleys teeming with wild- to a viewing deck with a bird’s-eye view of the the area most of the day. Fresh water and rest- by car via Highway 285 to Highway 137, and life and those forces, over time, helped create falls! The entrance road to the well-known site room facilities are available. There is a paved, then on to Forest Road 276 / County Road 409. the underground water reservoirs and springs was also reconstructed and literally “re-paved” ADA accessible, path to the falls viewing area. Pets on leashes are allowed. that feed into Sitting Bull Falls. the way to a whole new experience! Camping is not allowed in the falls day use

Visitor Guide 11 Nearby Attractions

Salt Basin Dunes Picnic Area & Trailhead (No Water)

Guadalupe Mountains National Park

brantley lake state park Lincoln National Forest (Guadalupe District) 575-457-2384 575-885-4181 www.emnrd.state.nm.us/SPD/brantley- Open all year—24 hours/day. www.fs.usda.gov/lincoln/home lakestatepark.html Wheelchair accessible. The forest encompasses 1,103,441 acres for Five Points & Indian Vistas Located 12 miles north of Carlsbad on hiking, caving, camping, picnicking, horse- Eleven miles south of State Highway 137 on U.S. Highway 285, the campground has 51 Fees back riding, hunting and sightseeing. Maps Forest Route 540, an improved gravel road. RV sites with water and RV electric hook- Day Use Only—$5.00 per vehicle are available at the Guadalupe Ranger Dis- A panoramic view of the desert from the ups (a few with sewer), a dump station, Camping—$14.00 per night ($10.00 for each trict Office located at 5203 Buena Vista Drive top of the Guadalupe Mountains. Interpre- playground, restroom with hot showers, additional vehicle driven into the same site) Carlsbad, NM 88220. tive signs explain natural features. shelters, tables and grills. Other facilities Primitive Camping Area—$8.00 per vehicle include picnic areas with sheltered tables per night. and grills, playground, a fishing dock, boat Living Desert zoo & gardens State Park ramps with docks, and a visitor center. 575-887-5516 bureau of land management (blm) www.emnrd.state.nm.us/SPD/livingdesert- Open daily except December 25. La Cueva Non-Motorized Trail System 575-234-5972 statepark.html Wheelchair accessible. The trail system covers approximately 2,200 www.blm.gov/nm/st/en/fo/Carlsbad_Field_ Come face to face with a mountain lion at acres and contains more than 15 miles of Office this unique zoo and botanical garden of- Summer Hours maintained trails. The non-motorized trails Black River Recreation Area fering an opportunity to experience the (Memorial Day to Labor Day) are used by mountain bikers, hikers, and The 1,200-acre Black River Recreation Chihuahuan Desert first-hand. See a large 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. equestrians. The trails wind through the Area is managed to provide low-impact collection of live animals, including the rare Last tour entry—3:30 p.m. rolling limestone foothills of the Guadalupe recreation and environmental education Mexican gray wolf, and the roadrunner, the Mountains and the rugged Chihuahuan opportunities while maintaining a healthy state bird of New Mexico. There is also an Winter Hours (after Labor Day) Desert environment. river system and riparian habitat. This oasis unusual collection of cacti and other succu- 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. in the Chihuahuan Desert is home to rare lents from around the world. Last tour entry—3:30 p.m. species of plants, fish, and reptiles in and The area is located partially within the city limits of Carlsbad, NM. From Lea Street, go around the river. The most frequently vis- The park is located high atop the Ocotillo Fees west to Standpipe Rd. Turn south and travel ited site is the Cottonwood Day Use Area, Hills overlooking the northwest edge of Ages 13 and up $5.00 3 miles to the gravel access road. Turn right which includes a wildlife viewing platform, Carlsbad, just off U.S. Highway 285, and Children 7 - 12 $3.00 and travel approximately 0.3 miles to the picnic tables, and a toilet. Turn west onto features exhibits, an art gallery, gift shop, Children 6 and under free trailhead and parking area. There are no facili- CR418, travel two miles, and then turn left and refreshments. Group (20+) discount available. at the fork. ties other than the parking area and trail signs.

12 Visitor Guide