Birding Angola breaking new ground

n the decade since the civil war in Angola came to an end, the face of the country has changed unrecognisably. Now the Ilargest oil extractor in Africa, the nation is experiencing great wealth and unimaginable infrastructure developments to feed this insatiable industry. The focus is on much-needed economic growth, and environment issues have, understandably, taken a back seat. But this may be changing: Angola’s reserve network has been reviewed in recent months and plans for its expansion approved. There is still a long way to go before all the country’s birds are adequately protected, but at least the importance of doing so is now being recognised.

Text by Michael Mills • Photographs by Dayne Braine

42 birding angola AFRICA – BIRDS & BIRDING Rep. of congo Congo democratic Cabinda republic of congo Cuango

Luanda

Cuanza

OCEAN Kumbira Forest ATLANTIC ATLANTIC angola Mount Moco ZAMBIA

Zambezi Benguela BAILUNDO

Cuito

Lubango Kavango Iona NP

Kunene Namibia

ngola lies at a biogeographical Anyone with a healthy To complete our armchair tour around Above The few pockets of afromontane crossroads. Within its borders Angola’s borders we go finally to the forest at Mount Moco, the country’s highest there are habitats that range measure of good sense, north, where fingers of Congolese hab­ mountain, are surrounded by vast areas of from Africa’s driest desert, the itats creep southward to form a mosaic grassland. The total area of afromontane Namib,A to some of the continent’s wettest a thick skin and a sturdy of moist woodland, grassland and forest. forest cover here is a mere 85 hectares, the forests in the Congo Basin. Between these Widespread Congo forest species such as second largest such area in the country. extremes lie expanses of arid savanna as vehicle can drive up from Western Nicator, Swamp Palm Bulbul, well as swathes of miombo woodland that Simple Greenbul and Piping Hornbill oc- Left The rocky outcrops at Tundavala, near blanket most of the inland plateau and are Namibia to look for the cur here alongside specialities like Spotted Lubango, are the most accessible site for dissected by floodplain grasslands. There endemic species Thrush Babbler and the striking and near- Angola Cave Chat. are also two highly threatened ecozones endemic White-headed Robin-Chat. that are unique to the country: the west- And let’s not forget the oil-rich enclave Below Most Namibian specials also occur ern escarpment (scarp) forests and the Palm-Thrush. The latter occurs mainly of Cabinda, north of the Congo River, in southern Angola and in fact many of montane grasslands and remnant pockets along the coast and is even often seen in with its extensive and well-developed them have their strongholds here. Benguela of afromontane forest on the Bailundo Luanda’s more leafy suburbs. Congo Basin forest. It is here that Plumed Long-billed Lark can be found on the Highlands. This impressive diversity of Skirting around to the east of the coun- Guineafowl, Forest Francolin, Akun Eagle- coastal gravel plains in the south of the habitats is reflected in the bird fauna, with try, the vast inland plateau is cloaked most- Owl, Black-headed and Rosy bee-eaters country, as far north as the city of Benguela. each environment having its own suite of ly in miombo woodland and grassland and and Rufous-sided Broadbill have been specialist species; together they make up a holds a long list of Central African­ specials. found, along with a plethora of hard-to- country list exceeding 940. Sharp-tailed is the common starling and oc- identify forest greenbuls. Virtually all the birds regarded as Namib- curs alongside miombo specialists such as ian specialities occur in the south of the Böhm’s Flycatcher, Miombo Scrub-Robin, lthough interesting in their own country, and in some cases Angola is the Black-necked Eremomela, Anchieta’s Bar- right, the habitats described so species’ stronghold. On the arid gravel bet, Red-capped Crombec, Souza’s Shrike far are mere additions to what plains and welwitschia fields of Iona Na- and Pale-billed Hornbill­ – all species that is really unique about Angola. tional Park (the northern extension of are mainly found north of the southern ToA find any of the country’s 14 endemics Namibia’s Namib-Skeleton Coast National African subregion. Rarer birds include the you have to venture to the mountains and Park) you can see Gray’s and Benguela enigmatic White-winged Babbling Starling, scarp in the west, which together form the Long-billed larks, Burchell’s Courser and the little-known and near-endemic Black- core of the Western Angola Endemic Bird Ludwig’s Bustard, while Damara Terns tailed Cisticola (only in the north-east) and Area. The good news for birders is that the Previous spread, left The iconic Red- breed in the coastal dunefields. Moving Bar-winged Weaver, a species that loves region is reasonably accessible, and any- crested Turaco, one of the Angolan inland and away from the cold Bengue- old-man’s-beard. was recently found to be locally common one with a healthy measure of good sense, scarp endemics, is a noisy but shy forest la Current, slightly less arid acacia and The floodplain grassland and swamps in the far north-east. a thick skin and a sturdy vehicle can drive inhabitant. The best place to see this beauty broad-leafed savanna areas are home to are home to most of the global popula- Another noteworthy habitat in the up from Namibia to look for the endemic is at Kumbira Forest. White-tailed Shrike, Monteiro’s and Da- tion of the Data Deficient Grimwood’s north-east is the more arid plateau grass- species. The bad news is that the patches mara Red-billed hornbills, Rüppell’s Par- Longclaw, as well as several so-called ‘Oka- land on deep Kalahari sands, which ex- of afromontane and central scarp forest Previous spread, right One of Angola’s rot, Bare-cheeked and Black-faced babblers vango specials’, like Hartlaub’s Babbler, tends through the two Congo republics are small and shrinking rapidly. They lie rarest birds: a male Swierstra’s Spurfowl and Carp’s Tit. In rocky sections these spe- Coppery-tailed Coucal and Chirping Cis- to south-eastern Gabon. Here, in the in the moister, more fertile reaches of the sits on a rocky outcrop near afromontane cies are joined by Hartlaub’s Spurfowl and ticola. There are also localised habitat spe- diamond-rich Lunda Norte province, are country, and the widespread use of slash- forest edge. The largest known population Rockrunner, while thickets also host Cin- cialists such as Black-and-rufous Swallow, found the unique Congo Moor Chat, the and-burn farming practices by a burgeon- is at Mount Moco, where there are about derella Waxbill and one of southern Afri- Bocage’s Sunbird and Bocage’s Weaver, as scarce Black-chinned Weaver and the di- ing human population is putting them at 75 pairs. ca’s most sought-after birds, Rufous-tailed well as Chestnut-headed Flufftail, which minutive Dambo Cisticola. great risk.

44 birding angola AFRICA – BIRDS & BIRDING december 2011/january 2012 birding angola 45 endemic avifauna. During dry periods the To find any of the country’s Congo Basin forest contracted into the 14 endemics you have to venture to wettest refuges in Central Africa. However, the steeply rising scarp trapped moisture the mountains and scarp in the west, from the nearby Atlantic Ocean, allowing pockets of dry forest to persist on it even which together form the core of the when, at the driest times, the surrounding areas were covered in arid savanna. Western Angola Endemic Bird Area With hundreds of kilometres separat- ing the pockets of scarp forest from the nearest similar vegetation, some resident birds evolved in isolation, slowly chang- ing into unique, endemic species. As the area has become moister in recent times, these dry forests and thickets appear to have spread into adjacent areas along the coastal plain, with the result that species that may have evolved in them, such as Red-backed Mousebird, Pale-billed Fire- finch, White-fronted Wattle-eye, Angola Batis, Golden-backed Bishop and Pale- olive Greenbul, are now more wide- spread. Among the true forest endemics are the striking Red-crested Turaco, the secretive Grey-striped Francolin, the un- obtrusive Gabela Akalat, two dull forest warblers (Pulitzer’s Longbill and Hartert’s Camaroptera) and a quartet of impressive bush- and helmet-shrikes (Gabela, Braun’s and Monteiro’s bush-shrikes and Gabela Helmet-Shrike). These birds are the main from their closest relatives in the Albertine Above The distinctive Angola Cave Chat is reason for birders to visit Angola. Rift, Cameroon Highlands or Eastern Arc one of the country’s endemics, and the only Mountains, they have not changed suf- one to be placed in its own genus. similar scenario of climate- ficiently to be considered species in their influenced fluctuations in hab­ own right. Left Angola Lark is one of the near- i­tat distribution is thought to Finally, and most significantly, there is endemic birds shared with Zambia and have affected the Bailundo a group of endemic species that have been southern Democratic Republic of Congo. It Highlands,A although the vegetation that isolated long enough to have evolved occurs in grassland on the inland plateau now occurs there may have been more into distinct species. It includes the En- and is common around the base of Mount widespread in cooler and drier epochs. Re- dangered Swierstra’s Spurfowl, a species Moco, where it is most easily located by its peated cycles of warming and cooling, and recorded by fewer than 20 birders, as well melodious song. the associated contraction and expansion as Angola Slaty Flycatcher, Angola Swee of afromontane forest and grassland, have Waxbill, Ludwig’s Double-collared Sun- left a strange assemblage of birds in these, bird and the unique Angola Cave Chat, the most isolated highlands in Africa. in a genus of its own. These highland spe- The avifauna here includes some mon- cials are joined by a host of other localised tane species that appear to be identical to species, some of which are shared with those of other mountainous areas, such western Zambia. The local Black-collared Gabela Akalat is Angola’s most localised What is it about these areas that makes as African Olive-Pigeon, Thick-billed Bulbul, Bocage’s Akalat, Angola Lark and endemic and is endangered most them biologically unique? To find out, Seedeater, Bar-tailed Trogon and Orange Perrin’s Bush-Shrike are in this group. significantly by forest loss resulting from we need to look at climatic conditions Ground-Thrush. Some birds, however, slash-and-burn farming. Fortunately it is thousands of years ago. Congo Basin for- have evolved to become distinct enough heir unique evolutionary histor­ still common within its restricted range, est once extended right down into what to be recognised as endemic subspecies: ies notwithstanding, the scarp although it can be hard to distinguish is now Angola and the scarp forests are the koesteri form of Ruwenzori Nightjar, and montane forests fall entirely as it feeds unobtrusively in the forest considered to be outliers of it, since the angolensis form of Western Green outside Angola’s protected area understorey. Congo Basin species like Blue Malkoha, Tinkerbird, the cinerovinacea form of network,T putting the rare endemic birds Yellow-throated Nicator, Yellow-bellied Dusky Twinspot, the grandis form of Grey they contain in grave danger of extinc- Wattle-eye, Black-throated Apalis and Apalis and the gadowi form of Bronzy Sun- tion. The afromontane forest is more Yellow-billed Barbet supplement their own bird are in this group. Although different threatened, due to its tiny extent; until

46 birding angola AFRICA – BIRDS & BIRDING december 2011/january 2012 birding angola 47 The contraction and expansion of afromontane forest and grassland have left a strange assemblage of birds in these, the most isolated highlands in Africa

recently, the largest known patches of this forest type covered 85 hectares at Mount Moco, the country’s highest mountain. In the past 18 months, however, new areas have been explored by means of Google Above The isolated montane areas of Earth satellite imagery and field surveys, Angola are separated from similar habitats and significant pockets of afromontane by more than 2 000 kilometres and support forest, containing all the habitat’s endem- Know before you go populations of typical montane species such ic birds, have been discovered in the Nam- ngola is not an easy country to visit. www.tracks4africa.co.za). And don’t forget as this Grey Apalis. ba Mountains. These finds have trebled AFor most nationalities the first hurdle, that you drive on the right in Angola. the known extent of afromontane forest and a substantial one at that, is to obtain Right Black-throated Apalis is one of the in Angola. While there is considerably an entry visa (luckily for Namibians, this RESOURCES Congo forest birds that has followed the more scarp forest, most of it is extremely excludes you). Contact your local Angolan There is no field guide specifically for An- extension of Congo-type forest that runs degraded and under great pressure from embassy or consulate to find out what gola, and the only guides that cover all the along the Angolan escarpment. It occurs in the very high density of the local human is required. In South Africa there is an country’s birds are Birds of Africa South of Kumbira Forest alongside the central scarp population. Swift and decisive conserva- embassy in Pretoria and consulates in the Sahara (Sinclair & Ryan; Struik Nature) endemics. tion action is vital if these areas are to be Johannesburg and Cape Town (www. and Illustrated Checklist: Birds of Southern saved. angola.visahq.com). Visa applications Africa (Van Perlo; Collins); neither of these Below and opposite Black-collared Bulbul With the primary aim of safeguarding take five working days to process in South is sufficient for identifying the more tricky (below) and Bocage’s Akalat (female shown these most threatened habitats, BirdLife Africa, but may take up to eight weeks species. Birds of Western Africa (Borrow & opposite) inhabit highland forests and are International and now BirdLife South Af- in other countries. Demey; Helm) will be useful to visitors to also found in western Zambia. rica have been supporting research and the north of the country. conservation in Angola since 2009, helped TRANSPORT The Birds of Angola (Dean; British by funding from organisations such as the The next consideration is how to get Ornithologists’ Union) gives information A.P. Leventis Ornithological Research Insti- around and the relative costs. Unless you on distribution, abundance and breeding; tute, the Rufford Small Grants Foundation, have connections in Angola, the best copies can be obtained from birdsangola the Conservation Leadership Programme option is to drive in from Namibia and @gmail.com and the African Bird Club. Initiatives cur- be completely self-reliant, although this Southern African Birdfinder (Cohen, rently under way are establishing a con- should be attempted only by experienced Spottiswoode & Rossouw; Struik) gives servation presence at Mount Moco in the Africa travellers. Another possibility is to some information on where to watch highlands and at Kumbira Forest along the take a fully guided tour with an expert birds, but the coverage is not extensive. central scarp, which is an even more im- company such as Birding Africa (www. Some issues of Bulletin of the African portant site for endemics. birdingafrica.com). A third option is to fly Bird Club carry articles on birding in These small-budget projects work with to Luanda and pay upward of R3 000 per specific areas of Angola and on species communities to make them aware of en- day for an all-inclusive package of trans- such as Swierstra’s Spurfowl, Braun’s Bush- vironmental issues and to change the way port, meals and camping. (Although new Shrike and Black-tailed Cisticola. they use natural resources. It is hoped that, hotels are opening up around the country, The websites www.birdsangola.org and in the long run, income from community- they are usually far from the best birding www.mountmoco.org may also be useful. based ecotourism will provide a significant localities. At least for now, camping is the For birdcalls, the country-specific Vocal­ incentive for people to conserve the scarp only option for serious birders.) isations of Angolan Birds (Mills; Birds and afromontane habitats, and that the The good news is that road conditions Angola and Birding Africa) has recordings of Angolan government will afford them of- have improved considerably in the past most of the endemics and specials, and can ficial protection. Another goal is to build five years, with thousands of kilometres of be combined with Southern African Bird capacity among local institutions so that new tar making travel much easier than Sounds (Gibbon; Southern African Birding) they will be able to carry out this work in- before. Nevertheless, a 4x4 is essential for and African Bird Sounds: West and Central dependently. Ultimately, both initiatives getting to the best birding sites, as are a Africa (Chappuis; British Library National aim to ensure the long-term persistence of GPS and good maps (try Tracks4Africa at Sound Archive) for near-complete coverage. all Angola’s special birds. louise braine

48 birding angola AFRICA – BIRDS & BIRDING december 2011/january 2012 birding angola 49