39

J. Milk Techno!. Vol. 38, No. 1, Pages 39·43 (January, 1975) Copyright 1975, International Association of Milk, Food, and Environmental Sanitarians

Impact of Proteins on Products JOHN J. JONAS Kraftco Corporation. Research and Development Glenview, Illinois 60025

(Received for publication September4, 1974)

ABSTRACT flavor constituents can be removed or reduced in Downloaded from http://meridian.allenpress.com/jfp/article-pdf/38/1/39/2399863/0022-2747-38_1_39.pdf by guest on 02 October 2021 The technological status of research trends directed toward creation intensity, but there is still an undesirable flavor left. In of dairy product analogues based fully or partially on vegetable protein these situations, flavor masking is often attempted. But raw materials is reviewed. Particular emphasis is given to soya this approach has serious inherent limitations which protein·based milk and analogues. Nutritional and organoleptic properties of the analogues are critically discussed. Continued research prohibits general applicability. activity is required by product developers to reach consumer Continued research activity is required by product satisfaction, nutritional adequacy, and legal approval for milk and developers before consumer satisfaction can be cheese analogue products. anticipated at a level believed to be adequate for potential commercial success. Moreover, governmental The food protein raw material supply and demand laws or regulations may require that the vegetable balance in the past year clearly indicated that neither we analogues of the dairy products be positioned on the in the U.S., nor the rest of the world can any longer market with full disclosure of the nature of their origin, depend entirely on the traditional protein sources for composition, and nutritional equivalency. This principle human nutrition. The short supply of animal proteins should be observed also when the vegetable protein has pointed toward the direction of more rational use of sources are used only as extenders at a 10-30% addition vegetable proteins as supplements or partial replace­ level. ments of animal proteins in . This review will consider as vegetable milk analogues, It is also expected that tastes of people for their beverages made similar to bovine milk, using protein-rich foods of animal origin is not going to change predominately plant raw materials such as , radically. the preference will likely be, as before, for peanuts, or coconuts, for protein sources. meats, dairy products, eggs, etc. Therefore, if food MILK ANALOGUES BASED ON demands are to be met by food producers, traditional products must be made available essentially in their The earliest attempts to produce a soya milk are commonly accepted form at a high level of nutritional reported in the Western literature in a German patent quality and organoleptic appeal. issued to Gosse! and published in 1911; this was followed Current business trends show that red meats can be by other patent applications in Great Britain and in the extended to consumer satisfaction with properly U.S. Dehulled soybeans were soaked in water, mashed or designed soy proteins. It is expected that with further milled, and the slurry tiltered. Nutritional fortification of research efforts extending dairy products and creating the soya milk analogue was considered and nonfat milk new vegetable protein· based dairy analogues seem to be powder, calcium salts, and vitamins were suggested for rational objectives. use. Flavor improvements were thought to be necessary The purpose of this paper is to review the technological and proteolytic enzymes were suggested for this purpose status of worldwide research trends directed toward in 1921. In the next decades, debittering trials were creation of dairy product analogues based fully or reported by Japanese and German sources. partially on vegetable protein raw materials. Information The infant moved in the direction ofsoya to be reviewed is organized in two sections; vegetable milks to supply infants allergic to cow's milk with milk analogues and cheese analogues. The "tilled milk'' nutritionally acceptable substitutes. Further work along product will not be considered in this paper. In the the same lines, but directed toward mass feeding of course of the review. step·by·step recognition of product infants by UNICEF in Indonesia, was done in the 1950's. properties and nutritional or organoleptic deficiencies of Large scale production of liquid soya milk was carried the respective dairy analogues will be critically discussed. out in the Far East in numerous locations in 1965. Dried Methods leading to product quality improvements are sova milks were marketed in Japan (40). evaluated in the perspective of their organoleptic ,In the U.S .. Hand started soya milk research in the acceptability. early 1960's (25.26.27). An acceptable bland soya milk It is concluded that the major problem with the analogue was produced by Wilkens during this period soya·based dairy analogues is off·flavor. Some of the (48). Wilkens ground dehulled soybeans with water 40 JONAS between 80-100 C and maintained the beans at this development is prevented by a rapid blanching temperature for 10 min to completely inactivate the operation (47). The authors have shown that the "beany" lipoxidase enzyme. This development was adapted to the off-odors and -flavors are not inherent in the beans, but Philippine soya milk market by Steinkraus and are induced by enzymes when ruptured cells are co-workers from the New York State Agricultural moistened. A simple heat treatment of beans before Experiment Station in Geneva (37). crushing was found to inactivate the enzymes, and, The Geneva group identified the chemical nature of thereby, prevented formation of undesirable flavors. the disturbing flavor by means of chromatographic Steinberg's group is aiming for a dry milk analogue methods. The status of soya milk technology, processing, which would be easy to ship anywhere in the world where economics, nutrition, and organoleptic properties are bovine milk is hard to come by. summarized by Bourne for a United Nations sponsored Commercial steps were announced in 1973 for project (11). The mechanism of protein insolubilization production of soya protein-based dry milk replacers for in dried soya milk preparations was studied by industrial use (7) and for production of "soya milk" (8). Downloaded from http://meridian.allenpress.com/jfp/article-pdf/38/1/39/2399863/0022-2747-38_1_39.pdf by guest on 02 October 2021 Fukushima (17). This was followed by extensive process Nutritional properties of whey and soy protein studies conducted by Khaleque et al. (21). Their findings combinations have been investigated and found to be indicated that it is possible to produce a sterilized fluid supplementary, resulting in high protein efficiency can11ed soya milk concentrate containing up to 15o/o blends (14). solids (21,45). Removal of flatulence-causing oligosac­ The soya milk area was reviewed at the World Soy charides from soya milks was proposed by Sugimoto (39) Protein Conference in Munich, Germany (35). who used a-galactosidase and invertase enzyme MILK ANALOGUES BASED ON PEANUT PROTELJ\J preparations obtained from Aspergillus saitoi. Chien Use of peanut proteins for preparation of milk treated soybeans with yeast to hydrolyze these analogues dates back to 1950. This early work is reviewed (13). oligosaccharides by Swaminathan (40). Large scale development work Growth and activity oflactic acid bacteria in soya milk followed using recommendations of the Central Food was investigated very thoroughly by Angeles and Marth Technological Research Institute, Mysore, India. This (1,2,3). If soya milk is to serve as a base for production of group saw in peanut milk an excellent extender for the cheese-like products, these studies give valuable basic -rich buffalo milk available in India. information not only on lactic acid formation, but "Miltone," a toned peanut protein milk product was lipolytic and proteolytic enzyme actions were also placed in the highlights of the Institute of Food considered during these investigations. Technology Award in 1971 (6). The Central Food The most significant soya milk commercial venture Technological Research Institute of Mysore, India was was the introduction of a heat sterilized, bottled soya honored for developing a new dairy product that could milk under the trade name "'' in Hong Kong by double the supply of milk for the children of India. For Lo. This project was the first successful commercial this process, hydrogen peroxide treatment of the protein effort for promotion of soya milk. Results were isolate was used to eliminate the aflatoxin that could be satisfactory from both financial and nutritional points of present in ground nut protein. "Miltone" has all the view (34). properties of milk and could be used in the same way as Several patents have been issued on the heels of the milk. commercial successes of "Vitasoy." Muskatas proposed MILK ANALOGUES BASED ON COCONUT PROTEIN wet milling offull fat or defatted soya flours to 5-401-1 size and homogenization of the slurry (32). A dry product is Coconuts as raw materials for milk analogues have recovered by spray drying. It is claimed that by suitable been brought into focus at the Tropical Products formulation with and sweetners, highly nutritious Institute by Dendy and Timmins (15). Traditionally, drinks can be obtained having flavors which are coconut is dried to produce copra and the oil is then acceptable to various cultural groups. obtained from copra by expression or solvent extraction A patent by Arndt claims a nutritious substitute for methods. The residual product containing 18-25% dry skim milk as a food additive (9). The product is made protein is too fibrous for human food use; consequently it by dry blending a vapor flash treated, deflavored soya is sold as an animal food supplement. protein with dried cheese whey solids. In a second patent, With the increasing concern over the world food Arndt described preparation of a soya protein and supply. considerable international attention has been vegetable fat containing whole milk analogue (10). directed towards the possibility of the utilization of Wagner recommended a process for preparation of coconut protein as a source of human food. The possible milk analogues by comminuting soya beans or other routes of utilization are cocnut milk, coconut cream, and in the presence of edible adds. Vapor phase a coconut protein isolate. However, to obtain these chromatographical results are cited which indicate a products a wet coconut milling process had to be reduction of off-flavor compounds (41). developed which differs essentially from the copra route. A team headed by Steinberg made soya milks based on Steinkraus (37). under the sponsorship of U.S.AID, a new technology. In this process. undesirable flavor conducted development of flavored soya milks and VEGETABLE PROTEINS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS 41 soya-coconut milks for the Philippine market. The paper Washed Soybeans reports of flavor studies, with taste panels composed of l Filipino children; it also presents the best technology for Soaked in Water making soya milks known at the time. It was found that ~ unflavored soya milks were unacceptable in flavors to the Ground with Water and Strained majority of Filipino taste panelists. The children themselves suggested raising the Proteins ~ j (Insoluble) content. When the sugared soya milks were flavored with vanilla and chocolate syrup the acceptance was increased Soya Milk .... Milk to 96o/o level. Addition of also generally ~ increased acceptability of the soya milks. The protein Heated with CaS04 and Cooled fraction of the coconut milk coagulates on heat exposure. ~ This makes it impossible to produce a sterilized coconut Curd Formation Downloaded from http://meridian.allenpress.com/jfp/article-pdf/38/1/39/2399863/0022-2747-38_1_39.pdf by guest on 02 October 2021 milk, as the product is no longer fluid. However, when ~ coconut milk was combined with soya milk, the product Pressed to Remove Water .... Cottage Cheese no longer showed any visible coagulation and the milk ~ remained liquid. Hagenmaier published on the food value and functionality of dried coconut milk. A 12o/o ~ Inoculated with A ctinomucor elegans solution of coconut skim milk is an acceptable beverage (18). ~ Fermented OBJECTIVE SENSORY METHODS 1 The potential for protein fortification of human diets Sa! ted and Aged is obviously an important public and technological issue. ~ Sufu .... Soft C:heese Milk-based products as protein supplements have proven value and acceptability. Recently, considerable attention was given to use of vegetable protein sources for scientific mind did not touch this area for thousands of competitive use with milk proteins. The major asset of years. However, it was investigated during the period of milk protein materials has been their bland flavor, 1929-1959. The investigations ofWai, from Taiwan, (42) whereas, the major limitation with most non-milk described the sufu process in terms of chemistry and protein supplements has been their unfamiliar or microbiology. Based on these fundamental findings, joint objectionable flavor characteristics. Objective chemical Far Eastern and Western efforts were started for and sensory methods have been proposed by Maga and creation of a soya based cheese analogue (46). Lorenz for the study of this question to be able to It is interesting to note that the temporary cottage standardize acceptability limits, or point out specific cheese shortage during World War II resulted in the idea flavor differences (30,31). of substituting tofu for cottage cheese (4). In Western , interest in making cheese CHEESE ANALOGUES BASED ON SOYA analogues from vegetable sources, mainly from soybeans, The historical precursor of the vegetable-based cheese gained some momentum during the middle 1960's analogue is the Chinese food "sufu" which dates back to (19,19a). However, in Japan, significant patent activity the era of Hang Dynasty (179-122 B.C.). Sufu is a soft was recorded on the subject between 1938-1966. Use of cheese-like product made from cubes of curd Neurospora molds and enzymes derived from them were (tofu) by the action of molds. The analogous claimed in a Japanese patent (38). relationships between the Western dairy and the Starting in 1967, using funds provided under Public Far Eastern soy based sufu is best shown in a diagram Law 480, the U.S.D.A. supported Chinese and Japanese (20). scientific groups engaged in soya cheese analogue research. Close cooperative activity was carried on In this diagram, we see that the soya beans when between Hesseltine's group in the U.S., Wai in Taiwan, ground and cooked yield a soya milk. This milk can be and Obara in Japan. coagulated to form a protein and fat containing curd in These efforts resulted in application of A. elegans and analogy to cottage cheese curd. The soft, bland, also a wide variety of proteolytic enzyme preparations in perishable curd will be transformed by mold the soya cheesemaking process, in addition to use of (Actinomucor elegans) and brine soaking lactic starter cultures (33,43,44): into the ''sufu" which is a soft cheese analogue ·(20). At the University of Alberta, Schroder and Jackson The process of making "sufu" in the Far East was continued the soy cheese analogue work both for texture considered a natural event to be carried out in the and flavor improvement. However, beany and bitter household, just like bread baking was in Western flavor defects were observed in all the soy cheese civilization. The technological inquisitiveness of the analogues (36). 42 JONAS

A U.S. patent issued to Lundstedt and Lo, reports on formulations, and be aesthetically acceptable in the form preparation of a soya curd which was offered for human consumption. fortified with milkfat and nonfat milk solids. Inoculation The big markets of the world are heavily was with Penicillium roqueforti and Streptococcus interdependent today. The more vital roles the products diacetilactis. After two weeks of curing, the cheese is play in human life. the more powerful are going to be the claimed to possess the appearance, texture, and reactionary forces of adjustments if shortages, or spreadability of blue cheese. A further patent by the inbalances are encountered. Dairy products are foods same authors describes preparation of a heat-stable, and foods are the most vital items for humanity. The meltable cheese analogue made of soya milk, milkfat, future of the dairy industry is interconnected with the and nonfat milk solids (28,29). global food supply and demand situation. There is a Burkwall (12) claims a high protein simulated cheese great opportunity, as well as, obligation for the dairy product prepared from specified amounts of natural research to contribute in a meaningful manner to the

cheese, pregelatinized starch. a high protein binding solution of the balanced food supply of the world Downloaded from http://meridian.allenpress.com/jfp/article-pdf/38/1/39/2399863/0022-2747-38_1_39.pdf by guest on 02 October 2021 agent (preferably soya protein), water, and . The population. mixture is heated up to 195° F and extruded into the form of small strands. A similar product in semi-dry ACKNOWLEDGMENTS form was discussed by Dietz (Ui). This paper was presented in part at the Educational Conference for Fieldmen and Sanitarians, Louisville, Kentucky, February 26. 1974; CHEESE ANALOGUES BASED ON and the 29th Annual Meeting of the American Dairy Science Association, University of Guelph, Guelph, Ontario, Canada, June 25. OTHER VEGETABLE SOURCES 1974. An Indian food research group associated with the REFERENCES Central Food Research Institute in Mysore did 1. Angeles, A. G., and E. H. Marth. 1971. 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