12 MUST-SEE HIDDEN GEMS IN

V A N I L L A P A P E R S . N E T Fo r many visitors, sightseeing in Cairo is a rushed affair. There's too much to see, and a typical tour will usually push tourists through the major iconic sites without getting much into the spirit of the city or its modern-day life.

Independent travellers, on the other hand, can often get stuck in tourist traps because there's just not enough info online about Cairo beyond the major tourist attractions.

But there's more to the city than the pyramids and the old souq. You should visit those sites, of course, but if you want a better-rounded image of the city then make some time for these gems off the beaten tourist path.

This is the Cairo of small museums, quirky bookshops, scenic parks and hip galleries that you won't find on a typical itinerary.

It's the Cairo I've discovered in more than six years of living here as an expat, and in my years of working as a travel editor at a major magazine.

I hope you'll enjoy these bars, concert venues and hidden mansions as much as I've come to love them.

V A N I L L A P A P E R S . N E T 1.Darb 1718 See modern Egyptian art & rooftop concerts 263J+7P This is a modern art and culture center where you can catch exhibits of innovative and up- and- coming Egyptian artists in the heart of Old Cairo. There are also rooftop concerts (anything from Pink Floyd cover bands to Egyptian folk-inspired music) and Arab film screenings in the garden. Fustat was 's first capital and is traditionally known for its pottery. Darb offers ceramic workshops where you can learn this ancient craft, and there are workshops on khayamiya, a decorative textile used for tents in the Middle East. It's an artsy hotspot in the middle of an old, local neighborhood that's otherwise filled with mechanics workshops, narrow alleys and shisha cafes. Sign up for the workshops on Darb 1718's website, and follow their Facebook page for up-to-date info on upcoming events. 2. Zamalek Hotel / Roof Top Sip beers on a rooftop with Nile views 367F+4C

A two-star hotel with five-star views on its rooftop, which is open to the public and a great place to have a few beers in the sun and enjoy the sweeping views of the Nile River. It's a favorite with Zamalek locals and expats alike - a bit rough around the edges with vintage beer posters lining the walls and empty bottles used for lamp-shaped decorations. It's also great in the summer when the breeze on the rooftop is cool. Try Stella, an Egyptian lager, or Sakara Gold, a lighter beer that's perfect for hot days. If you're hungry, eat before you come. The menu at Roof Top isn't recommended for anything beyond french fries.

V A N I L L A P A P E R S . N E T 3. SULTAN AL-ASHRAF QAYTBAY MOSQUE AND MAUSOLEUM Explore street art in the City of the

Dead 27VF+HX

Murals and graffiti can be found throughout the streets of the City of the Dead, but this mosque and mausoleum is a great place to start for a surreal mix of street art amid a historic necropolis. The mouse you'll see reappearing on different walls (once holding a Pharaonic cat by a chain, in another place with a can of spray paint) is the work of Polish graffiti artist Franek Mysza. The murals are part of a larger initiative to brighten what's often a drab area, and to attract visitors to the neglected neighbourhood that's nevertheless full of architectural gems, historic mosques and hundreds of gravestones amid modern apartment blocks.

4. GAYER-ANDERSON MUSEUM Retrace the steps of James Bond 27H2+87

A fascinating museum that was once home to an eccentric Irish Egyptologist, this is a very well-preserved residence from the 17th century full of artifacts, art work and curiosities that gives a well-preserved insight into that era's domestic life. It includes a haram room used by the wives and children of the house, as well as a secret chamber used as a hiding place (for people or things). It's also got great views of the neighbouring Mosque of Ibn Tulun. And the spacious roof garden, enclosed with elaborate mashrabiyas and potted plants, was also used as a location in the 1977 James Bond classic The Spy Who Loved Me. The museum contains both ancient Egyptian treasures collected by Anderson, and rooms like the Persian room that are decorated around a theme.

V A N I L L A P A P E R S . N E T 5. THE TOWNHOUSE GALLERY See Egyptian art, buy quirky souvenirs 26XQ+Q5

An independent art space with exhibits of modern art and a shop full of fun souvenirs that draw images from Egyptian pop culture. Don't miss the murals outside on the gallery's walls that feature colorful calligraphy, or the cutting-edge exhibits and performances inside. The gallery shop is a hidden gem for local handmade jewellery and unique keepsakes that include stationary printed with old Arabic-language Mickey Mouse comics or Cairo's classic metro tickets. There are occasional talks held with both regional and international artists, so check the gallery's Facebook page for the latest offerings. In the evening, relax with a shisha at one of the neighbouring cafes to soak up the artsy atmosphere.

6. SAID HALIM PASHA PALACE Sneak a peak at an abandoned mansion 26XP+HW

This abandoned palace is closed, but you can get a good look through its fence and marvel at the opulence that's turned into decay. The guard is friendly and doesn't mind visitors taking photos, though visitors aren't allowed inside the palace grounds. Walk around the building to marvel at the regal architecture, overgrown and crumbly in places. Built for Said Halim Pasha (who never moved in) by Slovanian-Italian architect Antonio Lasciac, the building was later turned into the al-Nasriya School for Boys after nationalization. It stands empty today but it's gained attention recently as a stop on local walking tours.

V A N I L L A P A P E R S . N E T 7. ABDEEN PALACE MUSEUM Take in royal splendour and oddities 26VX+64

A seldom-visited museum that houses silver, arms, presidential gifts and other royal treasures from across the reigns of various Egyptian leaders. The museum includes collections of presidential gifts that were presented to Egyptian leaders and Hosni Mubarak, the last president to reside at the palace. The gifts include large amounts of jewels, gold, and a Japanese model of a Samurai crown. There are also unusual pieces like King Farouk's collection of American buttons. The silverware section of the museum houses a vast collection of royal porcelain and table services. The palace, built in 1863, also includes beautiful gardens full of greenery and manicured lawns.

8. EL HORREYA CAFE AND BAR Have a beer in a local dive bar 2 Off Bab El Louq St., downtown

In the heart of downtown, this run-down bar packs loads of weathered charm, and is popular with locals, artists, left-wing intellectuals and expats. There's tea and coffee in the front of the cafe, where locals gather to play chess, and cold beers in the back section including the local favourite lagers Stella and Sakara. Evenings and weekends get rowdy and the tables get packed with groups of friends. Open until 2am, it's a great spot in downtown to enjoy a cold beer. But tread lightly on humid summer days. The AC isn't great and mostly consists of fans, though the beer is still ice cold and the service is friendly. .

V A N I L L A P A P E R S . N E T 9. AUC BOOKSTORE Load up on local lit 26RP+W9

This bookstore offers an amazing selection of books published by AUC Press, including huge coffee table books on Egyptology, scholarly books on and an impressive selection of Arab literature in translation. There are also books on just about anything you'd want to know about Egyptian culture: cookbooks on how to make traditional Egyptian dishes at home, history books, workbooks on learning Arabic and accounts on the January 25th Egyptian Revolution. There's also a great selection of English-language books and novels upstairs. It's great for browsing if you want to widen your knowledge of Egypt but don't know where to start.

10. CAIRO OPERA HOUSE, SMALL HALL Catch a concert without the crowds 26RF+XQ

With its wood-panelled walls and 500-people capacity, the small hall of the opera house is a great alternative to the usual grand ballets and opera offerings shown at the main hall. Plus, tickets for performances at the small hall are a great bargain. The performances are just as spectacular and often include intimate piano recitals, chamber music or cultural evenings of oriental and Egyptian music. It's rarely packed, which gives you the impression you're getting a private concert for about the price of a fancy cafe latte. There are also occasional live screenings of Metropolitan Opera performances, and eclectic programs that blend various musical styles.

V A N I L L A P A P E R S . N E T 11. AL AZHAR PARK Unwind in a green oasis with Cairo views 27R7+7V

Full of rolling grassy fields, sparkling fountains and sweeping views of the minarets of Islamic Cairo, Al Azhar Park is a perfect getaway from the rush of the city - and it's all build atop of what was once a huge garbage dump. There are rows of palm trees and walkways with plentiful benches to enjoy the shade, and an observation point with binoculars if you want great vantage points of the city. The Studio Misr restaurant has classic Egyptian decor and views of the nearby Citadel and its Mosque of Muhammad Ali. There are also smaller vendors if you want a soda or ice cream. But avoid weekends and holidays at this spectacular park, unless you like big crowds, family picnics and noise.

12. NILOMETER See how they measured the Nile 264F+QX

Built in 861 AD, the Nilometer was used to measure the flood levels of the Nile river - and to predict famine, harvest or flood for the farmers. The water levels were measured by a column that acts as a giant ruler. You can view the full length of the column by descending a winding staircase all the way to the bottom. The Nilometer is topped by an elegant dome that's a reconstruction of one destroyed by the French during their invasion of Egypt. With evidence to link the Nilometer to Egypt's ancient past, it's also one of the city's oldest structures though no longer in use. Needless to say it's surrounded by wonderful views of the river.

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To dive deeper into slow travel, off the beaten path destinations around the world and hidden gems in Egypt, read my blog at vanillapapers.net.

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