A REVIEW of the ROLE of GRAIN SIZE in BEACH NOURISHMENT PROJECTS Donald K. Stauble, Phd, PG U.S. Army Engineer Research and Deve
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Management of Coastal Erosion by Creating Large-Scale and Small-Scale Sediment Cells
COASTAL EROSION CONTROL BASED ON THE CONCEPT OF SEDIMENT CELLS by L. C. van Rijn, www.leovanrijn-sediment.com, March 2013 1. Introduction Nearly all coastal states have to deal with the problem of coastal erosion. Coastal erosion and accretion has always existed and these processes have contributed to the shaping of the present coastlines. However, coastal erosion now is largely intensified due to human activities. Presently, the total coastal area (including houses and buildings) lost in Europe due to marine erosion is estimated to be about 15 km2 per year. The annual cost of mitigation measures is estimated to be about 3 billion euros per year (EUROSION Study, European Commission, 2004), which is not acceptable. Although engineering projects are aimed at solving the erosion problems, it has long been known that these projects can also contribute to creating problems at other nearby locations (side effects). Dramatic examples of side effects are presented by Douglas et al. (The amount of sand removed from America’s beaches by engineering works, Coastal Sediments, 2003), who state that about 1 billion m3 (109 m3) of sand are removed from the beaches of America by engineering works during the past century. The EUROSION study (2004) recommends to deal with coastal erosion by restoring the overall sediment balance on the scale of coastal cells, which are defined as coastal compartments containing the complete cycle of erosion, deposition, sediment sources and sinks and the transport paths involved. Each cell should have sufficient sediment reservoirs (sources of sediment) in the form of buffer zones between the land and the sea and sediment stocks in the nearshore and offshore coastal zones to compensate by natural or artificial processes (nourishment) for sea level rise effects and human-induced erosional effects leading to an overall favourable sediment status. -
Data Dictionary for Grain-Size Data Tables
Data Dictionary for Grain-Size Data Tables The table below describes the attributes (data columns) for the grain-size data tables presented in this report. The metadata for the grain-size data are not complete if they are not distibuted with this document. Attribute_Label Attribute_Definition SAMPLE ID Sediment Sample identification number DEPTH (cm) Sample depth interval, in centimeters Physical description of sediment textural group - describes the dominant grain size class of the sample (after Folk, 1954): SEDIMENT TEXTURE (Folk, 1954) Sand, Clayey Sand, Muddy Sand, Silty Sand, Sandy Clay, Sandy Mud, Sandy Silt, Clay, Mud, or Silt AVERAGED SAMPLE RUNS Number of sample runs (N) included in the averaged statistics or other relavant information MEAN GRAIN SIZE (mm) Mean grain size, in microns (after Folk and Ward, 1957) MEAN GRAIN SIZE STANDARD DEVIATION (mm) Standard deviation of mean grain size, in microns SORTING (mm) Sample sorting - the standard deviation of the grain size distribution, in microns (after Folk and Ward, 1957) SORTING STANDARD DEVIATION (mm) Standard deviation of sorting, in microns SKEWNESS (mm) Sample skewness - deviation of the grain size distribution from symmetrical, in microns (after Folk and Ward, 1957) SKEWNESS STANDARD DEVIATION (mm) Standard deviation of skewness, in microns KURTOSIS (mm) Sample kurtosis - degree of curvature near the mode of the grain size distribution, in microns (after Folk and Ward, 1957) KURTOSIS STANDARD DEVIATION (mm) Standard deviation of kurtosis, in microns MEAN GRAIN SIZE (ɸ) Mean -
Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches Tiffany Roberts University of South Florida, [email protected]
University of South Florida Scholar Commons Graduate Theses and Dissertations Graduate School January 2012 Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches Tiffany Roberts University of South Florida, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: http://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd Part of the American Studies Commons, Geology Commons, and the Geomorphology Commons Scholar Commons Citation Roberts, Tiffany, "Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches" (2012). Graduate Theses and Dissertations. http://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd/4216 This Dissertation is brought to you for free and open access by the Graduate School at Scholar Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in Graduate Theses and Dissertations by an authorized administrator of Scholar Commons. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches by Tiffany M. Roberts A dissertation submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Department of Geology College of Arts and Sciences University of South Florida Major Professor: Ping Wang, Ph.D. Bogdan P. Onac, Ph.D. Nathaniel Plant, Ph.D. Jack A. Puleo, Ph.D. Julie D. Rosati, Ph.D. Date of Approval: July 12, 2012 Keywords: barrier island beaches, beach morphodynamics, beach nourishment, longshore sediment transport, cross-shore sediment transport. Copyright © 2012, Tiffany M. Roberts Dedication To my eternally supportive mother, Darlene, my brother and sister, Trey and Amber, my aunt Pat, and the friends who have been by my side through every challenge and triumph. -
Part III-2 Longshore Sediment Transport
Chapter 2 EM 1110-2-1100 LONGSHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT (Part III) 30 April 2002 Table of Contents Page III-2-1. Introduction ............................................................ III-2-1 a. Overview ............................................................. III-2-1 b. Scope of chapter ....................................................... III-2-1 III-2-2. Longshore Sediment Transport Processes ............................... III-2-1 a. Definitions ............................................................ III-2-1 b. Modes of sediment transport .............................................. III-2-3 c. Field identification of longshore sediment transport ........................... III-2-3 (1) Experimental measurement ............................................ III-2-3 (2) Qualitative indicators of longshore transport magnitude and direction ......................................................... III-2-5 (3) Quantitative indicators of longshore transport magnitude ..................... III-2-6 (4) Longshore sediment transport estimations in the United States ................. III-2-7 III-2-3. Predicting Potential Longshore Sediment Transport ...................... III-2-7 a. Energy flux method .................................................... III-2-10 (1) Historical background ............................................... III-2-10 (2) Description ........................................................ III-2-10 (3) Variation of K with median grain size................................... III-2-13 (4) Variation of K with -
The Relationship Between Wave Action and Beach Profile Characteristics
CHAPTER 14 THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN WAVE ACTION AND BEACH PROFILE CHARACTERISTICS P. H. Kemp Department of GivH Engineering. University College London, England. ABSTRACT. The rational design of coast protection works requires a knowledge of the behaviour of the beach under natural conditions. The understanding of the relationship between the waves acting on the beach and the characteristics of the beach profile produced, is thus a necessary preliminary to the analysis of the causes of beach erosion and the evaluation of the effect of projected remedial measures. The present paper describes the results of a series of prelimin- ary hydraulic model experiments carried out by the author prior to a model study of the behaviour of groynes in stabilising beaches. Most of the beach materials used represented coarse sand or shingle in nature. The results demonstrate the fundamental importance of the "phase- difference" in terms of wave period between the break-point and the limit of uprush, in relation to flow conditions, cusp formation, and the change from "step" to "bar" type profiles. Within the limits of the experiments an expression connecting the breaker height, beach profile length, and grain diameter is developed, and its implications examined in relation to beach slope, and to the previous "wave steepness" criterion for the change from step to bar type profiles. Observations are included on the rate of recession of a shore- line due to the onset of more severe wave conditions. INTRODUCTION. BEACH CHANGES. Changes in the coastline may be classified as:- (1) Progressive changes resulting in prograding or recession of the shoreline over a long period of time. -
Evolution and Grain Size Distribution of Bahamian Ooid Shoals From
Movement and grain size distribution of Bahamian sand shoals from remote sensing Kathryn M. Stack Michael Lamb, Ralph Milliken, Sebastien Leprince, John Grotzinger California Institute of Technology KISS Monitoring Earth Surface Changes From Space II 3/30/10 Motivation: Understand how sediment moves underwater Transport Grain size Implicaons Evoluon of shallow Petroleum and natural CO2 reservoirs bathymetry gas reservoirs 2 How remote sensing data can help • Obtain a 2-D snapshot of a modern day shallow carbonate environment • Build up a time series of morphology and grain size • Quantify the distribution and movement of sediment at a variety of temporal and spatial scales –Tides versus storms? • Use the modern to better understand the 3-D patterns of porosity and permeability in the rock record The Bahamas: A modern carbonate environment Florida The Atlantic Ocean The Bahamas Cuba 100 km Google Earth Tongue of the Ocean Schooner Cays 20 km 20 km Exumas Lily Bank 2 km 2 km Tongue of the Ocean 10 km 1 Crest spacing ~ 1‐10 km Google Earth 3 Crest spacing ~ 100 m 2 1 km Crest spacing ~ 1 km ASTER, Band 1 20 m Sediment transport and bedform migration Bedform spatial scales = 5-10 cm, 1 m, 10-100 m, 1-10 km Temporal scales = Hours, days, years Δy Δx Transport Ideal Imaging Campaign • High enough spatial resolution to see bedform crests on a number of scales - Sub-meter resolution - Auto-detection system • High enough temporal resolution to distinguish between slow steady processes and storms - Image collection every 3 to 6 hours • Spectral resolution depending on bedform scale of interest Also useful: • High resolution water topography (sub-meter resolution) • Track currents, tides, and water velocity Application of COSI-Corr • Use the COSI-Corr software developed by Leprince et al. -
The Effect of Variable Grain Size Distribution on Beach's
Delft University of Technology Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences Department of Hydraulic Engineering MSc Thesis THE EFFECT OF VARIABLE GRAIN SIZE DISTRIBUTION ON BEACH’S MORPHOLOGICAL RESPONSE Graduation committee: Prof.dr.ir. A.J.H.M. Reniers Author: Dr.ir. Matthieu de Schipper Melike Koktas Ir. Tjerk Zitman Dr. Edith L. Gallagher May 2017 P a g e 2 | 67 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY Field studies with in-situ sediment sampling demonstrate the spatial variability in grain size on a sandy beach. However, conventional numerical models that are used to simulate the coastal morphodynamics ignore this variability of sediment grain size and use a uniform grain size distribution of mostly around and assumed fine grain size. This thesis study investigates the importance of variable grain size distribution in a beach’s morphological response. For this purpose, first a field experiment campaign was conducted at the USACE Field Research Facility (FRF) in Duck, USA, in the spring of 2014. This experiment campaign was called SABER_Duck as an acronym for ‘Stratigraphy And BEach Response’. During SABER_Duck, in-situ swash zone grain size distribution, the prevailing hydrodynamic conditions and the time-series of the cross-shore bathymetry data were collected. The data confirmed a highly variable grain size distribution in the swash zone both vertically and horizontally. Additionally, the two trench survey observations showed the existence of continuous layers of coarse and fine sands comprising the beach stratigraphy. Secondly, a process based numerical coastal morphology model, XBeach, was chosen to simulate the beach profile response to wave and tidal action. A 1D cross-shore profile model was built and tested with the bathymetry data and accompanying boundary conditions that were collected during SABER_Duck. -
Pocket Beach Hydrodynamics: the Example of Four Macrotidal Beaches, Brittany, France
Marine Geology 266 (2009) 1–17 Contents lists available at ScienceDirect Marine Geology journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/margeo Pocket beach hydrodynamics: The example of four macrotidal beaches, Brittany, France A. Dehouck a,⁎, H. Dupuis b, N. Sénéchal b a Géomer, UMR 6554 LETG CNRS, Université de Bretagne Occidentale, Institut Universitaire Européen de la Mer, Technopôle Brest Iroise, 29280 Plouzané, France b UMR 5805 EPOC CNRS, Université de Bordeaux, avenue des facultés, 33405 Talence cedex, France article info abstract Article history: During several field experiments, measurements of waves and currents as well as topographic surveys were Received 24 February 2009 conducted on four morphologically-contrasted macrotidal beaches along the rocky Iroise coastline in Brittany Received in revised form 6 July 2009 (France). These datasets provide new insight on the hydrodynamics of pocket beaches, which are rather poorly Accepted 10 July 2009 documented compared to wide and open beaches. The results notably highlight a cross-shore gradient in the Available online 18 July 2009 magnitude of tidal currents which are relatively strong offshore of the beaches but are insignificant inshore. Communicated by J.T. Wells Despite the macrotidal setting, the hydrodynamics of these beaches are thus totally wave-driven in the intertidal zone. The crucial role of wind forcing is emphasized for both moderately and highly protected beaches, as this Keywords: mechanism drives mean currents two to three times stronger than those due to more energetic swells when beach morphodynamics winds blow nearly parallel to the shoreline. Moreover, the mean alongshore current appears to be essentially embayed beach wind-driven, wind waves being superimposed on shore-normal oceanic swells during storms, and variations in beach cusps their magnitude being coherent with those of the wind direction. -
Grain-Size Sorting in Grainflows at the Lee Side of Deltas
Sedimentology (2005) 52, 291–311 doi: 10.1111/j.1365-3091.2005.00698.x Grain-size sorting in grainflows at the lee side of deltas MAARTEN G. KLEINHANS Department of Physical Geography, Faculty of Geosciences, Universiteit Utrecht, PO Box 80115, 3508 TC Utrecht, The Netherlands (E-mail: [email protected]) ABSTRACT The sorting of sediment mixtures at the lee slope of deltas (at the angle of repose) is studied with experiments in a narrow, deep flume with subaqueous Gilbert-type deltas using varied flow conditions and different sediment mixtures. Sediment deposition and sorting on the lee slope of the delta is the result of (i) grains falling from suspension that is initiated at the top of the delta, (ii) kinematic sieving on the lee slope, (iii) grainflows, in which protruding large grains are dragged downslope by subsequent grainflows. The result is a fining upward vertical sorting in the delta. Systematic variations in the trend depend on the delta height, the migration celerity of the delta front and the flow conditions above the delta top. The dependence on delta height and migration celerity is explained by the sorting processes in the grainflows, and the dependence on flow conditions above the delta top is explained by suspension of fine sediment and settling on the lee side and toe of the delta. Large differences in sorting trends were found between various sediment mixtures. The relevance of these results with respect to sorting in dunes and bars in rivers and laboratory flumes is discussed and the elements for a future vertical sorting model are suggested. -
Coastal Processes Study at Ocean Beach, San Francisco, CA: Summary of Data Collection 2004-2006
Coastal Processes Study at Ocean Beach, San Francisco, CA: Summary of Data Collection 2004-2006 By Patrick L. Barnard, Jodi Eshleman, Li Erikson and Daniel M. Hanes Open-File Report 2007–1217 U.S. Department of the Interior U.S. Geological Survey U.S. Department of the Interior DIRK KEMPTHORNE, Secretary U.S. Geological Survey Mark D. Myers, Director U.S. Geological Survey, Reston, Virginia 2007 For product and ordering information: World Wide Web: http://www.usgs.gov/pubprod Telephone: 1-888-ASK-USGS For more information on the USGS—the Federal source for science about the Earth, its natural and living resources, natural hazards, and the environment: World Wide Web: http://www.usgs.gov Telephone: 1-888-ASK-USGS Barnard, P.L.., Eshleman, J., Erikson, L., and Hanes, D.M., 2007, Coastal processes study at Ocean Beach, San Francisco, CA; summary of data collection 2004-2006: U. S. Geological Survey Open-File Report 2007- 1217, 171 p. [http://pubs.usgs.gov/of/2007/1217/]. Any use of trade, product, or firm names is for descriptive purposes only and does not imply endorsement by the U.S. Government. Although this report is in the public domain, permission must be secured from the individual copyright owners to reproduce any copyrighted material contained within this report. ii Contents Executive Summary of Major Findings..................................................................................................................................1 Chapter 2 - Beach Topographic Mapping..............................................................................................................1 -
Lecture 12: Coasts
Ediz Hook, Port Angeles ESCI 321 announcements • Problem set 2 due tonight at midnight • Exam 2 in one week • We will have a major review session next Thursday. Come with questions. • Study guide posted. Bring to class on Thursday Coasts, beaches and estuaries I. Coast formation II. Beaches: Rivers of sand III. Estuaries http://www.nps.gov/olym/naturescience/damremovalblog.htm 1 Processes determining coastal morphology and formation Beach morphology Plate tectonics Sea level changes (eustatic and relative sea level change) Glaciers Weathering Wave action and storms Maine N.C. General scheme of coastline development (primary → secondary) Seasonal changes in beach morphology Longshore sediment transport How do waves affect beaches? (Beach movie) 2 Tombolo on the shore of Lake Erie, Erie, Pennsylvania Formation of rip currents and beach cusps Sediment composing barrier Islands along the east coast of the U.S. is continuously eroding and depositing toward the continent and toward the south. Swash on beach cusps at Propriano, Corsica. (Photo: Sogreah, France) Rip currents on a New Zealand beach 3 Dune Ridge Beach Open Ocean Puget Sound coastlines Lagoon Marsh Flat Lagoonal Peat Common types of shorelines in Puget Sound Natural shoreline with development •Sand and gravel •Sandy beach/dunes •Sediment-starved beach •Mudflats •Deltas •Beach w/ bulkheads 4 Shoreline with bulkhead Effects of beach armoring on amphipod habitat, Paihia, New Zealand Forage fish spawning grounds in Bellingham Bay • Surf smelt spawn in upper intertidal zone • In Bellingham -
Maggie Williams Particle Size, Shape and Sorting: What Grains Can Tell Us
Particle size, shape and sorting: what grains can tell us Maggie Williams Most sediments contain particles that have a range of sizes, so the mean or average grain size is used in description. Mean grain size of loose sediments is measured by size analysis using sieves Grain size >2mm Coarse grain size (Granules<pebble<cobbles<boulders) 0.06 to 2mm Medium grain size Sand: very coarse-coarse-medium-fine-very fine) <0.06mm Fine grain size (Clay<silt) Difficult to see Remember that for sediment sizes > fine sand, the coarser the material the greater the flow velocity needed to erode, transport & deposit the grains Are the grains the same size of different? What does this tell you? If grains are the same size this tells you that the sediment was sorted out during longer transportation (perhaps moved a long distance by a river or for a long time by the sea. If grains are of different sizes the sediment was probably deposited close to its source or deposited quickly (e.g. by a flood or from meltwater). Depositional environments Environment 1 Environment 2 Environment 3 Environment 4 Environment 5 Environment 6 Sediment size frequency plots from different depositional environments • When loose sediment collected from a sedimentary environment is washed and then sieved it is possible to measure the grain sizes in the sediment accurately. • The grain size distribution may then be plotted as a histogram or as a cumulative frequency curve. • Sediments from different depositional environments give different sediment size frequency plots. This shows the grain size distribution for a river sand.