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Lady Tasting Tea: How Milk book reviews US space programme was grievously mis- conceived from the start and that all the projects designed to assert the nation’s technological virility — putting a few people into low orbits or retrieving fragments of Mars — were pointless extravagances, which did nothing to enlarge human knowledge or LIBRARY BRIDGEMAN ART the limits of useful technology. White makes some curious judgements. He accepts without reservation the (to me) unconvincing evidence that Werner Heisen- berg held back the German atomic bomb project for reasons of conscience; he does not reveal Heisenberg’s famous mistake in esti- mating the critical mass of fissile material. And he exculpates Wernher von Braun, whose activities led to the deaths of some 3,000 Londoners and many more labourers at the Peenemünde missile site; von Braun, he tells us, was “a scientist first and a weapons designer second”, was no overt supporter of the Nazi party and was only doing his humble best to help his country win the war. (So that’s all right, then.) There is no dearth of mistakes, small and not so small. Max Perutz did not “unravel haemoglobin” in the year in which the DNA structure was revealed; Aaron Klug did not win his Nobel prize for genetics; Maurice Statistical conundrum: did the tea go into the cup before or after the milk? Wilkins was not an X-ray crystallographer, nor did he scorn model building; Francis (1935). In this chapter Fisher illustrates the Crick never worked on “the effect of magnet- principles of experimental design by dis- ic fields on development of cells”; the Allies Still waiting for cussing the hypothetical problem of how to did not use the Enigma machine to send mis- test the claim that it is possible to tell whether leading signals to the Germans; Martin Ryle the revolution the tea is put into the cup before or after the was not the originator of the Big Bang theory The Lady Tasting Tea: How milk. The first riveting fact I discovered from and Enrico Fermi was no Hungarian Statistics Revolutionized Science this book is that the problem is not entirely physicist; Silesia is not in Czechoslovakia; in the Twentieth Century hypothetical. It is based on an actual incident and, for that matter, Eisenhower did not lose by David Salsburg at a tea party in Cambridge in the late 1920s a presidential election to Kennedy. W. H. Freeman: 2001. 340 pp. $23.95 (the author knows someone who was there). There are, moreover, some inscrutable David Colquhoun The book is crammed with such personal passages of explanation. Why are we anecdotes, both amusing and sometimes instructed that proteins “form enzymes ... This is the fun side of statistics. David Sals- (thanks to Hitler and Stalin) harrowing. For and antibodies and are integral to many huge burg’s popular account of some of the great example, I discovered that I. J. Good, who molecules such as DNA and RNA”? And statisticians is a great read, full of anecdotes worked for much of his life in the United what is one to make of Maurice Wilkins’s gift and unusual personal information. It starts States, is the son of a Polish immigrant to to Rosalind Franklin of DNA “in the beta around the turn of the last century with London’s East End who owned a well-known [sic] or hydrated form”, which is “colloidal, Francis Galton, Karl Pearson, W. S. Gossett antique jewellery shop (Cameo Corner) near and in some respects more troublesome to (‘Student’ of the t-test) and, of course, R. A. the British Museum (I bought a ring there). work with”. There is a wise maxim which Fisher, and continues with Egon Pearson, Jerzy Salsburg does not, however, mention Flo- states that a little inaccuracy can save a world Neyman and Florence Nightingale David. rence David’s predilection for cigars of of explanation, but here the principle has Thus far, the action is all at University churchillian proportions. I have often won- surely been carried to excess. College London and Cambridge, but the dered what impression they must have made But I do not want to end on a disobliging book then spreads out worldwide. There are when she eventually moved to California; note. Mistakes will no doubt be put right in accounts of the life and work of many these days she would probably be arrested. the paperback edition, and Rivals is agree- twentieth-century statisticians, from A. N. Salsburg’s account is entirely non-math- ably written, and seldom less than absorbing. Kolmogorov’s work on the axioms of proba- ematical, and he makes a creditable attempt You do not have to swallow the thesis on bility, through I. J. Good’s work on cryptog- at verbal descriptions of some of the great which it uneasily rests to take pleasure in raphy at Bletchley Park and subsequently on work. Nevertheless, the difficulty of convey- these unusual, often lurid and sometimes bayesian methods, to the many achievements ing the ideas in words was brought home to scandalous episodes in the history of of John Tukey, not least the fast Fourier trans- me by the modest amount that I felt I under- science; and you may come away with some form. Along the way there are descriptions of stood in those areas I did not know about useful tips on how to knee your competitors the great (and still unresolved) wrangles already, such as martingales (I trust his in the groin. ■ between statisticians about inverse probabili- mathematical definition is more accurate Walter Gratzer is at the Randall Centre for ty and the foundations of inductive inference. than his nautical definition of this word). Molecular Mechanisms of Cell Function, King’s The title of the book refers to a famous When it comes to the science in the book College, Guy’s Campus, London SE1 1UL, UK. chapter in Fisher’s The Design of Experiments — as opposed to history and anecdote — 524 © 2001 Macmillan Magazines Ltd NATURE | VOL 411 | 31 MAY 2001 | www.nature.com book reviews Salsburg’s views will not gain universal gists, and indeed by the general public, but I and the Sushi Master, “inspired by the perva- agreement. One of his recurring themes suspect the main audience will be statisti- sive human-animal dualism of the Judeo- is that the old, deterministic clockwork cians — amateur and professional. Christian tradition, the anthropodenial, that Universe was swept aside by the “statistical Fisher’s lady tasting tea was intended to is the a priori rejection of shared characteris- revolution ... The ‘things’ of science are not illustrate the crucial importance of random- tics between human and animals, has no the observables but the mathematical distri- ization in experimental design. This lesson parallel in other religions and cultures”. bution functions that describe the probabili- has been learned well in areas such as the Does animal culture exist? And how do ties associated with observations.” design of clinical trials, but is still largely scientists approach this question? The My problem here is that Salsburg makes ignored in laboratory sciences. Perhaps author’s approach is to contrast Japanese and little distinction between the unavoidable Salsburg does have a point. Studies on trans- occidental attitudes to it. He reveals how variability that results from the random genic animals are a mainstay of research in much the philosophical background of a soci- behaviour of atoms, and avoidable variabili- the post-genomic era, and they can give use- ety affects its view of human culture. Occiden- ty due to errors of observation. At the level of ful results. But it is impossible to randomize tal scientists believe firmly that imitation and individual molecules, atoms and subatomic gene-knockout experiments. And nobody teaching are the basis of human culture. The particles, random behaviour is part of the seems to worry that this makes it impossible Japanese sushi master, however, neither physics of the system. In subatomic physics to do a valid significance test on the results of teaches nor instructs his apprentice — for at and in my own field of single-ion channels, their experiments. Perhaps molecular biolo- least three years, the apprentice watches his it is quite true that what we observe are distri- gists should read about Fisher’s lady. ■ master at work, without ever being allowed to butions. But nevertheless we can, and do, David Colquhoun is in the Department of practise. After this, he will prepare his first regard the (true) means of such distributions Pharmacology, University College London, sushi, usually with remarkable dexterity. So as deterministic constants. We can measure Gower Street, London WC1E 6BT, UK. much for teaching. We therefore need a more the duration of random lifetimes with open definition of culture to take account of high accuracy relative to the real variability the variability of human culture. Culture, of the system. defined by de Waal, is “a way of life shared by But these are specialist areas of research. the members of one group but not necessarily In most areas, the variability is seldom of this Breaking down with the members of other groups of the same unavoidable single-molecule sort. Most peo- species ... The way individuals learn from each ple would think it entirely reasonable that the barriers other is secondary, but that they learn from when you measure, for example, the equilib- The Ape and the Sushi Master: others is a requirement.” rium constant for a well-defined reaction, Cultural Reflections by a To illustrate his proposition that animals there is a true value. Of course there will be Primatologist can have ‘minds’ and intention, de Waal experimental errors in measuring this value, by Frans de Waal describes Georgia, a female troublemaker in but the problem is essentially deterministic.
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