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Colombia – Santa Marta Endemics

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Colombia – Santa Marta Endemics Colombia – Santa Marta Endemics Client Tour Report 25th Jan – 3rd Feb 2020 Sunset from the Dorado Lodge Images and report by Ferney Salgado & Alfred Adamo Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Colombia – Santa Marta Endemics Tour participants: Andrea Beltran (leader), Ferney Salgado (local guide) and seven Naturetrek clients Location summary Except for the short visit at La Florida Marsh, in a high inter-Andean valley of the eastern mountain range of the Andes near Bogota between 2,500 and 2,650 meters of altitude, with temperatures ranging from 10 to 15º, most of the sites visited were in coastal areas. Here, are dry forests of semi-desert areas such as on the Guajira peninsula, coastal saltwater lagoons and mangrove swamp, and the humid tropical, subtropical and temperate forests influenced by the effects of the prevailing trade winds on the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta is the highest mountain range that exists in the world located next to the ocean and ascends to 5,775 meters with permanent snow. It is a massif separated from the Central and Eastern Andes by the Caribbean lowlands. These conditions has made many of the species that inhabit there present a high degree of endemism. There are also some species that share territory with Venezuela which could indicate a previous connection with the Perijá mountains that extends into Venezuela. The most probable explanation is that there was some corridor that connected them and allowed some species to pass towards that zone; species that today are now isolated and that at some point presented differences in behavior, song or plumage. The average maximum daytime temperatures range from about 30ºC in the lower elevation zones down to approximately 11ºC on the San Lorenzo Ridge at about 2800m. Except for a few expected misty afternoons around El Dorado lodge the overall weather was perfect for birding. Sunrise from Camarones © Naturetrek May 2020 2 Tour Report Colombia – Santa Marta Endemics Sites visited - Wetland La Florida in Bogotá - Dry forest/desert scrub in Camarones, Guajira - Saltwater lagoons in Camarones - Tropical dry forest on the northwestern side of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta (Las Gaviotas trail) - Tropical humid, subtropical and temperate forest from 50 to 2,800 meters in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta (Las Cabañas, Minca, El Recuerdo, La Victoria, El Campano, Buena Vista, La Tagua, El Dorado Reserve and Cuchilla de San Lorenzo trails). - Mangrove forests and coastal zone of influence (Palermo Kilometer 4 and 8, Island Park Salamanca and Universita del Norte). Sunrise from San Lorenzo Ridge. Day 1 Saturday 25th January Flight from Pereira to Bogotá and transfer to the AZ Hotel. Day 2 Sunday 26th January At 4:00 am Jacomine, David and Graham were met at the airport having just arrived from England. At 5:30, David and Alfred were picked up at the Movid Bure hotel, having arrived from Toronto the night before and finally we returned to the hotel to pick up the Baxters. After breakfast, we went to the first birding site, La Florida Marsh. Here we saw special birds, among them Silver-throated Spinetail, Bogota © Naturetrek May 2020 3 Tour Report Colombia – Santa Marta Endemics Rail, Spot-flanked Gallinule and Rufous-browed Conebill. About noon we left for the airport for a delicious burger lunch and to catch our plane to Riohacha. After an interesting flight, where we flew above much of the length of the Rio Magdalena Valley and skirted the eastern edge of the Santa Marta mountains, we arrived at our destination at about 4 pm. Without delay we took the opportunity to visit Los Flamencos Park, where we found hundreds of waterbirds, lit by the setting sun, including a distant smudge of pink, which turned out to be a feeding flock of Greater Flamingos (Flamencos). This was a special moment for the group to end an excellent day with many birds. Purple Gallinule – La Florida Marsh-Bogotá Day 3 Monday 27th January We started the day at 5:30 with coffee, then we headed back to Camarones where our local guide Yhonis was waiting for us and proceeded to the beach. The waterbirds were illuminated by the rising sun, especially the Scarlet Ibises, which pulsated with colour. Here there was every shade of pink imaginable due to hybridization of White and Scarlet Ibises. Thence we went to a short trail ‘Las Gaviotas’ in the © Naturetrek May 2020 4 Tour Report Colombia – Santa Marta Endemics dry forest to look for special birds and we got some excellent records, although the Tocuyu Sparrows eluded us despite much effort. Here we had a field breakfast, including fresh hot breakfast sandwiches, “Colombian style”. We then walked a trail through the desert scrub and despite the increasingly oppressive heat, we recorded some specialities of the region, including Chestnut Piculet, White-whiskered Spinetail and Slender-billed Inezia/Tyrannulet. Finally, around noon we visited Karikari, a reserve where they have feeders; there we could enjoy impressive views of Vermilion Cardinal, Orinoco Saltator and Buffy Hummingbird among many other birds. Here we had a delicious pre-ordered lunch; a choice of Garlic Shrimp or Grilled Red Snapper. While sitting down for lunch, we were aghast when Graham appeared with a large piece of cactus anchored to his leg after photographing a Vermilion Flycatcher. It was completely painless he assured the skeptical group. The spines were subsequently removed with little effort and no lasting damage to Graham. After lunch and a siesta for some, we drove to Santa Marta via the coastal highway, a beautiful drive with deserted beaches to our right and the foothills to our left with huge stretches of banana plantations. We had to move to smaller vehicles in Santa Marta as larger ones were not permitted in Minca. Minca is a small village located at about 600 meters altitude on the western side of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta; there we stayed at the hotel La Casona de Minca and prepared to ascend the next day towards the El Dorado Lodge. Camarones Day 4 Tuesday 28th January During breakfast we were able to enjoy the busy hummingbird feeders. We then started our ascent up the mountains. We began with a bang, when we saw a staked-out pair of roosting Black-and-white Owls, previously found by Ferney on a previous scouting trip. Afterwards, we made a number of other stops where we were recorded some interesting birds. At 11 am we met our new drivers to transfer our luggage to our new vehicles at the end of road repair. We thank Andrea for purchasing for us the Corona beers (Coronavirus antidote) and “Chicken-flavoured” crisps. We arrived at Santa Marta lodge in time for lunch. A self-serve honour system bar was well patronized, expecially the excellent GranColombia beer. © Naturetrek May 2020 5 Tour Report Colombia – Santa Marta Endemics After a siesta, we walked several trails in the Reserve. Near the lodge we observed the wonderful White- tipped Quetzal near its nest hole. Other interesting birds seen that afternoon included: Montane Foliage- gleaner and Woodcreeper, Santa Marta Toucanet, White-lored Warbler and Bang’s (Grey-breasted Wood Wren). We visited what were to be our original lodgings, although the views were spectacular, we agreed that we would not relish the long walk in the dark after dinner to our cabins! Band-tailed and Sickle- winged Guan, Sierra Nevada and Santa Marta Brush-finch, Lined Quail Dove, Blue-naped Chlorophonia, Black-capped and Bay-headed Tanager, among others were seen at the lodge feeders along with many hummingbirds. In the evening we were invited to observe a Kinkajou and a family of Grey-handed Night-Monkeys near the lodge, as we ended this great day. Blue-naped Chlorophonia – Dorado Lodge Day 5 Wednesday 29th January On this day we decided to descend to the main road to Minca to try a new place where few groups go. The surprise was the number of endemic birds we could see easily; the Santa-Marta Foliage-gleaner, Tapaculo and Antbird gave us a spectacular show. We saw only very briefly the Rosy-thrush Tanager but had very good views of Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush and Scaled Piculet, the latter of which we were alerted by one of our drivers. There were many raptors flying in the morning, highlights included a couple of King Vultures. In the afternoon we tried a different trail near the lodge and our patience and stillness was awarded when we all saw well a pair of Grey-throated Leaf-tossers do their thing, well leaf- tossing! On another trail we encountered a small group of Band-tailed Guans, a Black-fronted Wood- Quail at a nest and a rarely seen and even more rarely perched Barred Forest Falcon. What a wonderful © Naturetrek May 2020 6 Tour Report Colombia – Santa Marta Endemics afternoon! In the evening after dinner we took a short walk around the lodge where we saw several frog and tarantula species, but alas we were unable to call in a Santa Marta Screech-Owl. White-tipped Quetzal, El Dorado Reserve Day 6 Thursday 30th January This was perhaps the most challenging day of the whole tour; as we left at 4:15 in the morning towards San Lorenzo Ridge, and for two hours we drove on a very rough track but the drivers and vehicles were up to the challenge. Fortunately, the action started very early when at the first stop the whole group could appreciate the rare Santa Marta Screech-Owl on a nice perch.
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