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JUNE 2016 | Our 38th Year andrewharper.com

TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES

TROUT STREAMS, WINERIES, MOUNTAIN SPLENDOR COVER PHOTOGRAPH Lake Manapouri from the mouth of the , Fiordland, / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

New Zealand Fly-Fishing Odyssey THIS MONTH or American visitors, perhaps the and wine are often exceptional, some Taupo to Te Anau most extraordinary thing about golf courses compare with the best in A two-week journey from the heart of the North FNew Zealand is that on domestic the United States and the trout fishing Island to the tip of the South Island yielded a turboprop flights, there is still no airport is incomparable. crop of stellar lodges and hideaways...... 1-7 security. You just turn up at the airport 30 These attributes, combined with Expansion of Eichardt’s Hotel, Queenstown.....4 minutes ahead of time and walk straight remoteness from the world’s troubles, are Regrettable Recent Closures...... 4 onto the plane. The inconveniences that doubtless what attract an ever-increasing Villa Retreats at Annandale...... 5 the rest of the world has grown accus- number of affluent Americans. Indeed, Additional Fishing Lodges...... 6 tomed to are here deemed superfluous. the recent growth at the high end of the  Online: Golf, Wineries, Hikes and Heli-Fishing often feels like a little world luxury market has inspired a new private apart. Separated from Australia by nearly jet terminal in Queenstown (population Hawaii Small-Ship Cruise 1,000 miles of ocean, it has a population 13,000) on the South Island, and rates for On a weeklong trip, we visited remote islands, of just 4.5 million people in an area the the best suites at the leading hotels and snorkeled with sea turtles and manta rays and size of Colorado. In much of the country, resorts can now exceed $5,000 a night. enjoyed exceptional whale watching...... 8-10 crime is virtually unknown; prosperity American affection for New Zealand is Four Seasons Lanai Reborn ...... 10 seems more or less universal; and even not just a recent phenomenon, however. Serene Maui Sanctuary...... 11 relations between the Māori people and North Carolina hedge-fund billionaire  Online: Mauna Kea, Galleries and Bookshelf those of European origin appear to be Julian Robertson has been responsible comparatively harmonious. In addition, for the creation of three of the country’s Find video and more photographs of our trips at andrewharper.com/hideaway-report the mountain scenery is glorious, the food finest lodges — Kauri Cliffs, The Farm

Full-service travel planning is available to subscribers at (800) 375-4685 or [email protected]. For comments and inquiries concerning the Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. at Cape Kidnappers and Matakauri — as mph), and few drivers exceed it. The roads into the surrounding forests and ranges. well as two of its leading golf courses. themselves are well-maintained, and the Guided hikes, mountain biking, sporting California-based billionaire William P. signage is excellent. Above all, even the clays and archery provide alternative Foley II, the owner of Wharekauhau Lodge, major routes are comparatively empty, so pursuits. For a brief period in the fall has invested in two Wairarapa vineyards there is little oncoming traffic, and over- (March-April), hunters arrive to stalk red and is building a new bottling plant. taking is, for the most part, unnecessary. and sika deer. In addition, the property While Blanket Bay, on Lake Wakatipu After the 13-hour trans-Pacific flight is just an hour’s drive (15 minutes by near Queenstown, was the brainchild from San Francisco, we freshened up at helicopter) from the renowned Hawke’s of Thomas W. Tusher, a former presi- the pleasant Novotel Auckland Airport Bay wine region. dent and chief operating officer of Levi hotel, before boarding a turboprop for the Poronui comprises a main lodge Strauss & Co. 45-minute flight southeast to the vacation with seven lavish cabins; Blake House I have made several previous driving town of Taupo. (for exclusive use), with two spacious tours of New Zealand, in the course of bedrooms, plus two bunk rooms with which I have visited many of the leading bout 30 miles from Taupo, Poronui four single bunks in each; and the Safari wineries and played some of the best golf A is set on a 16,000-acre private estate, Camp, set beside the Mohaka River, with courses. On this occasion, I decided to through which flow the Taharua and two tented suites, each containing two indulge in another of my passions: trout Mohaka rivers. Although it is considered queen beds. We were greeted at the front fishing. If the idea of a driving tour sounds one of New Zealand’s premier fly-fishing entrance of the lodge by its manager, Eve intimidating — New Zealanders drive on lodges, Poronui is a wilderness retreat Reilly, an exceptionally friendly woman of the left and few roads have more than two that is also suitable for non-anglers. Its Irish origin. Our so-called cabin provided lanes —­ rest assured that there is nothing impresssive stables, which are part of a a large living room with floor-to-ceiling to fear. Kiwis are extremely law-abiding recreation complex that includes a gym windows, a gas-log fire, leather armchairs, when it comes to speed restrictions. The and spa facilities, offer a range of eques- a writing desk and a wet bar. The bedroom limit on most highways is 100 kph (62 trian activities, among them horse treks contained a queen and a twin bed, while

Stacked photos, from top: Hilltop restaurant at Brancott Estate winery; Lake Wakatipu near Queenstown; mountains in / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

Bay of Islands NEW ZEALAND

1 Poronui (97) AUCKLAND 4 5 2 Huka Lodge (97) M IN

( B 3 Edenhouse (97) Y

A

I R 4 Hapuku Lodge and Tree Houses (88) T asman Sea ) 5 Eichardt’s Private Hotel (96) TAUPO 2 6 Blanket Bay (96) 1 7 Nokomai Station (87) ) IR A Hawke Y 8 Fiordland Lodge (90) B ( Bay S R H

2

Abel Nat’l Park Kahurangi Nat’l Park 3 NELSON 2.5 HRS BLENHEIM

1.5 HRS Marlborough wine region 4 KAIKOURA SOUTH 2.5 HRS ISLAND CHRISTCHURCH

R) AI Y (B R H 1 Milford Sound PACIFIC OCEAN 6 Lake Wakatipu QUEENSTOWN Lake Te Anau 5 8 1 HR TE ANAU 1.5 7 HRS Fiordland Nat’l Park 0 200 MI

Foveaux Strait 0 200 KM

STEWART ISLAND

2 HIDEAWAY REPORT JUNE 2016 Clockwise from top left: Aerial view of Poronui; a typical brown trout from the Taharua River; cozy sitting area of our cabin at Poronui / TROUT AND INTERIOR PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER the bright adjoining bath came with twin happy in their work, which also contribut- explain to me, large trout in New Zealand sinks surrounded by attractive jade green ed to an exceptionally enjoyable evening. greatly prefer the headwaters of streams tiles and an effective walk-in shower. Best Even though our stay at Poronui was and chase the smaller fish downriver. As of all was the wooden deck, which was at the height of the trout-fishing season a result, there are relatively few trout in supported on the steep hillside by long (November through February), we were the upper reaches, but they are all big. stilts. The view of the rushing Taharua unlucky. A late summer storm brought a We set out more in hope than expecta- River, emerging from a gorge between night of torrential rain, and at breakfast tion and after a 10-minute drive reached forested hillsides, was so aesthetically Sean was looking gloomy. He pronounced a placid stretch of the Taharua. Although satisfying that it seemed more like land- the Mohaka River unfishable, and even we could still see to the bottom, the water scape art than scenery. remote high-altitude streams accessible looked slightly murky. In New Zealand, As it was now well past lunchtime, only by helicopter had, apparently, been you don’t just start casting in likely spots. we wandered over to the main lodge Here, you walk stealthily upstream until building, where boards of cheese and you spot a fish, which you then stalk, often charcuterie, plus a bottle of Pinot Noir, In many mountain streams, using the bankside vegetation as cover. had been set out on the long communal the water is usually so limpid Fishing becomes more like hunting. For dining table. Behind a wide bar counter, “ that every fish is visible. This me, and fellow addicts, the experience is the chef and his assistants were hard at means you can sight fish, or cast almost unbearably exciting. work in the open kitchen, chopping and to a specific trout that you can That morning the river seemed peeling in preparation for dinner. At one actually see feeding. strangely empty. Those fish that were end of the living area, a log fire smoldered out in the open had silt in their gills and in a stone fireplace. A leather sofa and written off by the deluge. From the lodge were sulking and unresponsive — with armchairs, polished floors, bright area balcony, the Taharua looked clear, but one exception. After a couple of hours, rugs and crowded bookshelves all helped Sean insisted that it, too, was carrying we found a solitary trout rising regularly. to create an atmosphere that was both unwelcome quantities of silt. Sean crept up the bank for a closer look cozy and civilized. The trout fishing in New Zealand is and pronounced it “a good fish,” which in After a couple hours’ relaxation in considered the best in the world for a New Zealand means one about 24 inches our cabin, we reconvened to meet our number of reasons. In many mountain long, or five or six pounds in weight. My fellow guests and to discuss the program streams, the water is usually so limpid fly landed as intended, and a huge swirl for the following day with our engaging that every fish is visible. This means that was followed by the brief appearance of fishing guide, Sean Andrews. A selec- you can sight fish, or cast to a specific a large caudal fin. Of course, in response tion of canapés was followed by a scallop trout that you can actually see feeding. to the morning’s frustrations, I struck too carpaccio appetizer, and a main course The brown and rainbow trout, which were hard and snapped the fly off the end of of chateaubriand, both of which were introduced from North America in the late the leader. Sean said nothing. Sometimes utterly delicious and graciously served. 19th century, here grow to immense sizes I feel profoundly sorry for fishing guides, A lively ebb and flow of conversation was and on average are double the weight of and this was one such occasion. sustained by Reilly, who had a natural gift their cousins in the blue ribbon streams Having no wish to weary non-anglers, for encouraging general participation. of the Rockies. And for some reason, I have written more extensively about my All the staff members were unmistakably which no fishing guide has been able to fishing experiences online. In general,

JUNE 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 3 Stacked photos: Our suite’s living room and bath at Eichardt’s / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER Helicopter excursion over Abel Tasman National Park from Edenhouse

CLASSIC HOTEL UPDATES Eichardt’s Expands

I HAVE LONG RECOMMENDED Eichardt’s Private Hotel, housed within a striking 19th-century building on the Queenstown water- front, overlooking picturesque Lake Wakatipu. At present, the property comprises five stylish and exceptionally comfortable suites with separate living rooms and gas fireplaces. In addition, there are four split-level, two-bedroom suites in the Lake Front Apartments, and a self-contained three-bedroom villa. I have always been particu- larly fond of the hotel bar, where the lunchtime tapas menu — which includes an exceptional seafood chowder — is a local institution. Given the recent demand for high-end accommodations in Queenstown, Eichardt’s is now undergoing a significant expansion that will add two Hotel Poronui is an exceptional retreat. The world before acceding to his wife Bobbie’s Lake View Suites and a 2,600-square-foot two- cuisine, staff and accommodations are desire to return to her homeland. bedroom Penthouse, plus a new restaurant. All all exemplary. Blake House, with its Set amid 50 acres of grounds, Eden- will be contained within a modern extension of the Victorian structure. Guests of the Penthouse capacity of four adults and eight children, house looks like a desirable country will enjoy privileges that include private dining would be ideal for a family gathering. On residence that has been standing for at options, a Land Rover and driver permanently my next visit, however, I plan to stay at least a couple of centuries. But in fact, the on call, and hosted after-hours shopping at the the Safari Camp, where the trout in the Martins designed it themselves, relying town’s Louis Vuitton boutique — all of which Mohaka River will be just a few feet from on skills that Bobbie Martin had acquired seems fair enough given the anticipated $7,000 the flap of my tent. at London’s Inchbald School of Design nightly rate. The extension is expected to be The best-known hideaway in the and The English Gardening School. The complete by the end of 2016. Taupo region is Huka Lodge, set on the property comprises just two spacious River, three miles north of the suites in the main house and a separate Fond Farewells town of Taupo. I have long recommended two-bedroom garden cottage, so you feel this property, and over the years it has as though you have been the fortunate WITH REGRET, I learned that two New Zealand become an established favorite of Hide- beneficiary of a private invitation. We had properties long favored by Andrew Harper away Report readers. Although it is now a been allocated to the cottage. There, we subscribers are closing. Mollies, a lavish 12-suite small luxury resort that offers a range of found a peaceful living room with a sofa, hideaway set within a Victorian mansion with activities, as well as a spa and a notable a writing desk and an outdoor deck. The views of Auckland harbour, has been acquired restaurant, Huka began life in 1924 as large master bedroom came with a walk- by new owners and will revert to being a private residence. (Travelers are now bereft of boutique an austere fishing lodge. In 1984, it was in closet and an adjoining bath. A flight of options in New Zealand’s largest city, and The acquired by its present owner, shipping stairs led up to the second bedroom. The Langham, with 411 rooms, is perhaps the best of magnate Alex van Heeren, who recognized décor evoked that of an English country what is available.) Similarly, Grasmere Lodge, its untapped potential. Today, a proportion house, with mostly neutral colors, floral near Arthur’s Pass in the Southern Alps, closed of Huka’s guests are still fishermen, for cushions and framed prints. in April after its owner, financier and property whom the property organizes heli-fishing Having unpacked, we joined the developer John Copson, decided to convert the trips into nearby wilderness areas. Having Martins and four other guests — a promi- property into a private home. Grasmere had been stayed at Huka several times already, I nent lawyer from Washington, D.C., an delighting readers since its Hideaway Report opted this time to forgo the pleasure of English financier and their respective debut in 1995. Alas, these closures are becoming a return visit and instead caught a plane wives — for canapés and drinks, followed part of a pattern. The Lodge at Paratiho Farms, from Taupo to Nelson, on the northern by dinner. The interior of the main house near Nelson, another Harper favorite, closed in 2009 to become the residence of the former shore of the South Island. is also decorated in a traditional and chief executive of the HSBC banking and financial patrician style. All of the staff at Eden- services organization. However, I understand e were greeted at the airport by house live in the local valley and are that the 14-bedroom property, set on a 2,000- WPeter Martin, the immensely affa- clearly considered by the Martins to be acre estate, is for sale at the time of writing, at ble owner of Edenhouse, a small secluded part of an extended family. As a result, an asking price of $13.6 million. Perhaps some hotel that lies around 45 minutes’ drive the atmosphere is unusually relaxed public-spirited person would like to buy it and to the west. A native Australian, Martin and welcoming. The talented cook uses turn it back into a hotel. spent many years in London’s financial local ingredients whenever possible,

4 HIDEAWAY REPORT JUNE 2016 Helicopter excursion over Abel Tasman National Park from Edenhouse Living room, kitchen detail and our bedroom at Edenhouse / HELICOPTER PHOTO: © GAVIN CONROY / BEDROOM PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

and the food was delicious throughout of house guests. Hospitality just doesn’t VILLA ALTERNATIVES our stay, while Peter Martin was clearly get any better than this. a man offended by the sight of an empty Escaping the World wine glass. rom Edenhouse, we headed south and For many guests, I suspect, the prin- F then east on a two-and-a-half hour TRAVEL IS ENTHRALLING, but it can often cipal activity at Edenhouse is sitting amid drive to Blenheim, a town at the center be tiring. For those who would like to spend the flowerbeds with a book. However, of the Marlborough wine region. After a part of a New Zealand trip sequestered in a wine tasting is another undemanding tasting at Cloudy Bay, a winery now owned private world, just reading, relaxing and gazing local pursuit. The Nelson Tasman region by the French luxury goods conglomerate out to sea, Annandale provides the perfect contains 37 boutique wineries — chiefly LVMH, we enjoyed lunch in the hilltop venue. (Full disclosure: I have not stayed at Annandale personally, but I have received several renowned for aromatic whites and Pinot restaurant on Brancott Estate, a winery enthusiastic reports.) Located approximately Noirs — among which Neudorf is widely famous for having produced the first 80 minutes southeast of Christchurch, the considered to be one of the country’s Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc in 1979. property comprises four distinctive “villas,” set leading producers. Those who are feel- Our plan was to drive down the east on a 4,000-acre sheep and cattle farm that has ing more energetic may go on guided coast of the South Island, from Blenheim an extensive stretch of Pacific coastline. The hikes or kayak excursions in the Abel to Christchurch. Although this is a jour- principal house is the “Annandale homestead,” Tasman National Park. Alternatively, it ney of only 193 miles, we decided to stop a grand five-bedroom Victorian structure dating is possible to take helicopter tours into halfway at Hapuku Lodge and Tree from 1884. In complete contrast, “Scrubby Bay” the mountainous Kahurangi National Houses, nine miles north of Kaikoura. is a four-bedroom contemporary beach house Park, where the heroic landscape became (An unappealing town, Kaikoura is of of cedarwood, glass and stone, situated on a familiar to a wide audience as “south of interest only as a place from which to private cove. The other two so-called villas are the one-bedroom “Shepherd’s Cottage,” set on a ” in the movie adaptation of the watch sperm whales.) Hapuku Lodge has hilltop with views of the Pacific, and “Seascape,” “Lord of the Rings” trilogy. A helicopter attracted a good deal of attention in New an ultra-modern one-bedroom hideaway with a will also take fishermen into Kahurangi Zealand for its innovative architecture, glass façade, located on a private bay. At all four to fish the remote , which but after a short while, we concluded villas, gourmet food is either delivered or cooked is renowned for its trophy brown trout. that it is a property unlikely to appeal to on the premises by a private chef. And if you tire On this occasion, however, I contented Andrew Harper subscribers. Its much- of inactivity, you may explore the working farm, or myself with fishing the , one of touted location with “spectacular views go hiking, biking and kayaking. annandale.com New Zealand’s leading trout steams. A of the Kaikoura mountain range” turned stretch of the river is within five-minutes’ out to be too close to the main highway “Scrubby Bay,” a contemporary beach house drive of Edenhouse. and too far from the sea. And while our It is always a delight to discover suite was spacious and quite stylish, the a hideaway that I can unequivocally bath was poorly designed, with only one endorse. Edenhouse is a true gem. And sink and an unaccountable lack of a towel Peter and Bobbie Martin are superlative rail. That said, the staff were friendly hosts, in part, I suspect, because they and our dinner was pleasant, if scarcely are naturally gregarious people who memorable. We left the following morning love entertaining an endless procession well-rested but underwhelmed. © STEPHEN GOODENOUGH STEPHEN ©

JUNE 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 5 Owen River / © BECK PHOTOGRAPHY Stonefly Lodge from the Motueka River As there is only so much that can be packed into a two-week trip, we did not stay near Christchurch. Instead, we took a 60-minute flight to Queenstown, a resort town in the region. Situated on the shore of 50-mile-long Lake Wakatipu beneath 7,000-foot mountains, Queen- stown has recently become extremely popular with wealthy Americans and Asians. And it’s not hard to see why, given the spectacular setting and benign climate during winter in the northern hemisphere. More Options for Avid Fishermen As a result, real estate prices as well as room rates have soared. My preferred THE LODGES AND HOTELS that I describe in this issue are all of potential interest to non-anglers; most property, Eichardt’s Private Hotel, is simply happen to be places where exceptional trout fishing is one of the principal activities. Of course, those currently being expanded and upgraded for whom fly-fishing is a passion may wish to stay for a longer period at a lodge primarily intended for anglers. (see sidebar, Page 4). I also recommend During my recent trip, I asked guides and other knowledgeable people which New Zealand fishing lodges Azur Lodge and Matakauri Lodge on currently enjoy the highest reputations. Two names recurred: Owen River Lodge and Stonefly Lodge. Both the outskirts of town. are located in the northern part of the South Island, less than a 90-minute drive from Edenhouse. Stonefly At the northern tip of Lake Wakatipu, Lodge is situated on the banks of the famous Motueka River amid 150 acres of private forest and has just four guestrooms. Helicopters take anglers on guided trips to fish for brown trout on wilderness streams 28 miles from Queenstown, Blanket Bay in the nearby Kahurangi National Park. Owen River Lodge lies 48 miles to the south and comprises six is a dramatic stone and timber lodge, with detached cottage suites. The Owen River itself is an intimate stream with remarkable water clarity. Here, too, massive rock fireplaces and towering helicopters ferry guests to remote areas, where the trout may not see another fisherman for an entire season. picture windows, which has long been a Most lodges recommend a three-day, four-night minimum stay. For more information and reservations, speak favorite of Hideaway Report readers. The to an Andrew Harper travel advisor at (800) 375-4685. resort was built originally as a result of its American owner’s passion for fly-fishing. Today, many of the guests are still fisher- HOTELS AT A GLANCE men, who pursue the brown and rainbow trout in the gin-clear Greenstone and Poronui A97 Caples rivers, which are just minutes LIKE Beautiful location; large, comfortable accommodations; delicious food; delightful staff; superlative fishing. DISLIKE Nothing. GOOD TO KNOW When the hunters arrive in March, they run on a parallel track to the fishermen, away by helicopter. Indeed, there are though the two groups do meet up for dinner. Lodge Room, $1,215 for two (all meals and beverages included). Taharua dozens of wilderness streams within a Road, Taupo 3379. Tel. (64) 7-384-2080. poronui.com 15-minutes’ flight where the trout aver- age around 22 inches, or four pounds in A97 Huka Lodge weight, with many being double that size. LIKE The riverfront setting; the lavish duplex accommodations; the superb cuisine. DISLIKE The considerable Non-anglers play golf on the magnificent expense. GOOD TO KNOW The Jack Nicklaus-designed Kinloch Golf Club is just a 20-minute drive away. Junior Lodge Suite, $2,320 for two; Lodge Suite, $8,220 for two (breakfast and five-course dinner included). 271 Huka Falls Jack’s Point course near Queenstown, go Road, Taupo 3377. Tel. (64) 7-378-5791. hukalodge.co.nz

Waiau River and a typical 22-inch rainbow trout Edenhouse A97 LIKE The sense of seclusion; excellent food; charming local staff; utterly delightful owners. DISLIKE Having to leave. GOOD TO KNOW If you want to fish, be sure to ask Peter Martin to arrange for a guide (and helicopter) well before you arrive in New Zealand. Lodge Room, $1,080; Garden Cottage, $1,220 (breakfast and three-course dinner included). 213 Thorpe-Orinoco Road, R.D.1, Motueka, Nelson. Tel. (64) 3-526-8174. edenhouse.co.nz

Blanket Bay A96 LIKE The sensational location; delicious cuisine; the range of activities; the virtually limitless opportunities for fishing. DISLIKE The spa and gym are both quite small. GOOD TO KNOW The most spectacular (though scarcely the cheapest) way to arrive is by helicopter from Queenstown. Lodge Room, $1,280; Chalet Suite, $1,900 (breakfast and dinner included). Rapid 4191, Glenorchy, Otago. Tel. (64) 3-441-0115. blanketbay.com

Fiordland Lodge A90 LIKE The dramatic architecture; excellent food; obliging staff. DISLIKE Even the second-floor Deluxe Lodge Rooms are rather small. GOOD TO KNOW The astonishing scenery of Milford Sound is a 90-minute drive away. Deluxe Lodge Room, $860; Executive Suite, $1,000 (breakfast and dinner included). 472 Te Anau-Milford Highway, Te Anau. Tel. (64) 3-249-7832. fiordlandlodge.co.nz

preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel that will be added toThe Andrew Harper Collection. A Visit andrewharper.com for more information on these and nine additional recommendations in New Zealand. Note: Hapuku Lodge and Tree Houses (88) and Nokomai Station (87) were not up to the required standard.

6 HIDEAWAY REPORT JUNE 2016 on guided hikes, or ride quarter horses Anau, a town on the eastern shore of Lake to-table menus featuring local lamb, beef on the resort’s high country station. Te Anau, at the edge of the 4,830-square- and fish, supported by organic ingredi- mile Fiordland National Park. Most travel- ents from artisanal suppliers, as well as fter a brief sojourn in Queenstown, we ers use Te Anau as a base from which to produce from the hotel’s own vegetable Adrove south for an hour to Nokomai visit Milford Sound and Doubtful Sound, garden. Guests dine outside in fine weath- Station, a vast 96,000-acre ranch, where areas of astonishing scenery, or to embark er, or in the glass-walled dining room; the the Hore family has raised merino sheep on either the Kepler Track or the Milford service provided by the young staff was for over 60 years. Today, Ann Hore runs Track, both of which are four-day hiking consistently gracious and professional. a small lodge, centered on the restored trails. On this trip, however, I had come to The Fiordland region has an astonish- 1870s stone homestead. The property’s fish the Waiau River — the Anduin River ing wealth of trout fishing and the lodge guests are primarily fishermen, as 12 in the movie “The Fellowship of the Ring” can arrange for guides on more than 40 miles of one of New Zealand’s most famous — which flows south out of Lake Te Anau, streams. Other activities include heli- trout rivers, the Mataura, flow through down to the Foveaux Strait at the tip of copter tours, guided hikes and jet boat the station. At least 25 other rivers are the South Island. excursions into the national park. minutes away by helicopter. Fiordland Lodge is located four I had opted to try fishing from a jet Aside from the homestead, which miles north of the town on a steep hillside, boat on the Waiau River, and after break- contains the reception and dining room, with a backdrop of the lake. The 10-room fast I was collected by guide Ken Mitchell, Nokomai comprises four cottages — both property is constructed in a North a quiet-spoken man, who seemed the one- and two-bedroom — all of which American style with hand-peeled logs of living definition of a Kiwi outdoorsman. contain spacious living areas and kitch- Douglas fir. Massive whole trees support I suspected that I might dislike the noise enettes. These are comfortable but utili- the 36-foot ceiling of the main living area, of the jet boat’s engine, but after a short tarian. Although adequate for fishermen, where a huge fireplace of river stones while, I found that I didn’t notice it at all. they are in no sense luxurious and will faces a dramatic wall of glass. We were The Waiau is a magnificent river — clear, not appeal to most Harper subscribers. shown to our Deluxe Lodge Room by the fast and powerful — with steep, densely Meals are served at a communal table hospitable manager, Andy Cunningham. forested banks. The advantage of the in the homestead, and the food is well- This proved to be well-appointed and jet boat is that it enables you to remain cooked and sustaining — steaks, grilled smartly styled but rather small. The bath, stationary even in the strongest current, salmon — but not especially sophisticated. which lacked natural light, provided an and to fish the slack water and small I enjoyed my days at Nokomai, partly effective walk-in shower, but only a single tree-shaded inlets at the edge of the flow due to my success with the brown trout sink and no tub. I strongly recommend where the trout are mostly found. Over the on the Mataura in the company of a that you reserve the single Executive course of eight hours, with a break in the superb fishing guide, Daryl Paskell, and Suite if it is available; alternatively, two log middle for a lunch of lobster sandwiches, I also because of the lodge’s exceptionally cabins intended for families are situated was fortunate enough to catch 15 rainbow friendly and hospitable owner. 220 yards behind the main hotel building. trout between three and five pounds in Aside from its dramatic public areas weight (20-24 inches in length), all on a he final leg of our journey took us and congenial atmosphere, Fiordland floating dry fly. It was precisely the kind Tdeeper into the wild region of South- Lodge is distinguished by its restaurant, of experience for which keen trout fish- land. After a two-hour drive we came to Te where chef Steve Carson creates farm- ermen fly halfway around the world. H

Interior and exterior of Fiordland Lodge on Lake Te Anau / RIVER, TROUT AND INTERIOR PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER / AERIAL PHOTO © GRAHAM DAINTY

JUNE 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 7 ABOARD THE INTIMATE SAFARI EXPLORER A Small-Ship Cruise Through the Hawaiian Archipelago

Humpback whale breaching off the coast of Maui

ravel through the Hawaiian islands has long been a favorite assignment. ports of call inaccessible to larger vessels This time, instead of hopping from resort to resort, we opted to sail aboard — notably Molokai, which is forbidden TUn-Cruise’s 36-passenger Safari Explorer. Our seven-night journey from the to all other cruise ships — and affords Big Island to Molokai, with stops at Maui and Lanai in between, proved memorable wildlife sightings difficult to experience in every way. on your own. Un-Cruise, formerly American Safari Cruises, runs expedition itineraries in The whale watching was superb. Mexico’s Sea of Cortez, the Pacific Northwest and, most famously, Alaska’s Inside Over breakfast one morning, a hump- Passage. Like the Alaska cruise we enjoyed a few years ago, the Hawaii trip includes back whale and her calf breached three times, not 50 yards from my plate of eggs Benedict. We spent an afternoon cruising the Humpback Whale National Marine HALAWA VALLEY KAUNAKAKAI Sanctuary. After a hydrophone had been MOLOKAI HUMPBACK WHALE NATIONAL MARINE SANCTUARY lowered into the water, we listened to live whale song as we observed spouts, LAHAINA MAUI pectoral fin-splashing and breaching. LANAI Our route Another morning, a dozen of us dutifully WAILEA aboard the MANELE MOLOKINI boarded one of the Explorer’s two skiffs BAY Safari Explorer for a sunrise whale-watching excursion. KAHO’OLAWE As I sipped my coffee in the twilight, long- ing to return to our cabin’s comfortable bed, a crew member spotted a whale WHALE: © DTAMARACK/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK © WHALE: “logging,” or resting on the surface. We approached and discovered a humpback 0 100 MI KAWAIHAE nursing her newborn calf. The mother 0 100 KM sometimes helped the calf onto her back, raising it above the waterline in order to catch an easy breath. We watched for 45 OAHU PACIFIC KAUAI OCEAN KONA minutes, as mother and calf bonded — an extraordinary and unforgettable sight. HONOLULU MAUI HAWAII (BIG ISLAND) KEALAKEKUA The snorkeling proved equally memo- BAY rable. The coral wasn’t especially colorful, HAWAIIAN but the rainbow of fish easily made up for ISLANDS the deficiency. We swam through schools HAWAII (BIG ISLAND) HONOMALINO of black triggerfish with glowstick-like BAY turquoise stripes, and watched multi- hued parrotfish peck at corals sheltering

8 HIDEAWAY REPORT JUNE 2016 lipstick-red sea urchins. Needle-shaped collared shirts at dinner from time to the ship has no Wi-Fi access. A cell phone trumpetfish eyed us suspiciously, and time. Public spaces feel cozy rather than signal reached the ship for most of the fluorescent schools of yellow tang flut- glamorous, comprising a simply deco- cruise, allowing us to keep in contact tered with the current along the reef, like rated dining area of communal tables (no with home. so many aspen leaves in autumn. I spotted tables for two), an adjacent lounge area Meals also tended to be simpler than a green sea turtle and swam with it across with leather sofas and a cushy banquette, on a traditional luxury cruise ship. Each the reef for 10 or 15 blissful minutes. One a well-stocked complimentary bar, a meal had only one seating, and guests wine library/music room with leather chose whichever places they liked at the armchairs and an upright piano, and an communal tables. At 6:30 each morn- Over breakfast one upper deck with loungers, a teak dining set ing, the kitchen set out an “early riser” morning, a humpback whale and and a seating group protected by a canopy. spread of coffee, fresh fruit and pastries, “ her calf breached three times, Occasionally, I even saw guests use the which varied from strawberry and mango not 50 yards from my plate of upper deck’s three fitness machines. scones to cinnamon rolls with passion eggs Benedict. Cabins, too, had simple décor, with fruit cream cheese frosting. Some guests carpeted floors, tile baths and walls gathered for an hour of yoga on the top evening, we donned wetsuits for a night adorned with light wood wainscoting. deck at 7 a.m., before joining everyone else snorkel with giant manta rays, which can A wall-mounted flat-screen television for a hot breakfast. Specials alternated reach more than 12 feet across. We clung displayed the day’s schedule and a rotat- between sweet and savory, from coconut to a surfboard with a light attached to it, ing series of Hawaii-related films, as French toast with Portuguese sausage watching in amazement as the rays made well as movies from a large DVD library. and bananas, to a mushroom and tomato graceful cartwheels in the water to feed Our cabin proved snug, with a built-in frittata with a side of bacon. We enjoyed on the plankton that our lights attracted. wardrobe, a wall-mounted desk and a light one-course lunches such as rare Even our transfers to and from snorkeling suede armchair. The bath held a toilet sesame-crusted ahi tuna over a salad sites were eventful, with whale, dolphin and small shower stall. We used our of spinach, blueberries and mango; and and shark sightings. At one point, our accommodations mostly for sleeping. I huli-huli chicken with pineapple fried rice. Zodiac stopped so that we could watch a strongly recommend reserving one of the During cocktail hour, we nibbled on tiger shark repeatedly (and unsuccess- two higher categories of cabins, either crudités and charcuterie, before sitting fully) attempt to fit an inflated porcupine an Admiral, laid out like a junior suite, down to three-course meals based on local puffer fish into its jaws. or a Commodore Suite. Both have more seafood and meats (vegetarian options Guests on the Safari Explorer tend spacious baths with full tubs, additional also available). At a typical dinner, we to focus on these wildlife experiences storage and queen beds accessible from relished an appetizer of flavorful tuna as the vessel has few of the trappings of both sides. Note that cabins have no poke on seaweed salad, followed by pork a luxury cruise ship. The dress code is telephones — guests must go to either belly glazed with shoyu and yuzu, and resolutely casual, though we did see some the lounge or bridge for assistance. And sesame-crusted mahi mahi atop mashed

Safari Explorer, clockwise from top: Upper deck; exterior; sesame-crusted ahi tuna salad; Zodiacs with Lanai in the background; wine library / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

JUNE 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 9 purple potatoes infused with ginger. been maintaining a traditional lifestyle. Desserts such as passion fruit cheesecake There, we met Anakala Pilipo Solato- and pineapple upside-down cake with rio, one of the few people left who remem- caramel sauce were difficult to resist. bers the 1946 tsunami, and his son, Greg All alcoholic beverages on the ship, Kawaimaka Solatorio. Both live as “Cultur- excluding premium wines, are included al Practitioners.” They were chosen as in the price. Well-chosen wines served at children to learn all they could about dinner ranged from a Domaine des Malan- traditional Hawaiian culture in order to des Chablis to a Two Mountain Syrah from pass it on to the next generation and to Washington’s Yakima Valley. Beer drink- educate visitors. We elected to hike with ers also had an appealing selection from Greg to the Mo’oula waterfall. Although which to choose, including Maui Brewing fragrant jungle now surrounds the trail, Company’s Big Swell IPA on draft. And the path once served as a public way

SUITE: © BARBARA KRAFT / GOLF COURSE: PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER I always enjoyed returning to the boat between taro fields and villages. Ancient Golf course and suite at Four Seasons Lanai after an excursion to find the cheerful ruins of volcanic rock dotted the entirety bartender at the stern, welcoming us of the route, ranging from stones used for LANAI UPDATE back with fruity, spritzy cocktails (rum or grinding medicinal herbs to sacred heiau vodka optional). Like all crewmembers, (temples), one of which comprised multiple Four Seasons Reopens she addressed guests by their first names, levels with an altar stone centerpiece. We but nonetheless provided service that was marveled for a while at the narrow water- FOR ME, 18-mile-long Lanai represents the thoroughly professional. fall, plunging down a towering green cliff Hawaiian idyll. So it is with keen anticipation that On our last full day, we landed on into a round pool. When we returned to I have followed the progress of renovations at unspoiled Molokai, a 38-mile-long island Greg’s home and farm, we walked through the two Four Seasons resorts on this unspoiled with about 8,000 residents, most of whom his terraces of taro plants, irrigated by island. On the coast overlooking Hulopo’e Bay, fiercely oppose development. Molokai the ancient channels he had restored. In the Four Seasons Lanai (formerly the Four Seasons at Manele Bay) has finally completed has just one proper hotel, and the Safari that place, at least, there was no need to what can only be described as a gut rehab. Larry Explorer is the only cruise ship allowed imagine how the valley might once have Ellison, the owner of almost the entire island, to dock at the island. Gregarious local looked. The old Halawa was there, spread apparently spared no expense in refurbishing drivers took us along a winding road out before us. H the hotel. The décor in accommodations now to the Halawa Valley, which sheltered looks chic, with wood floors and white-marble some of Hawaii’s earliest human inhab- Un-Cruise’s Safari Explorer “Hawaiian Seascapes” is a seven-day trip offered from baths, in sharp contrast to the fusty “luxury itants. Archaeological remains date early November to early April. Admiral cabin, $10,990 for tropical” style that was previously sported. Some back more than 1,300 years, and up two; Commodore Suite, $13,390 for two. Rates include all suites also have wooden Japanese-style soaking until tsunamis destroyed the valley’s meals and house alcoholic beverages, port taxes and fees, tubs. Public areas also underwent a complete entrance fees to national parks, all activities organized infrastructure in 1946 and 1957, Halawa transformation, including the refurbishment of by the ship and a 30-minute massage. Tel. 888-862-8881. supported some 5,000 people who had un-cruise.com the ONE FORTY and NOBU LANAI restaurants, and the addition of a free-form adults-only pool Mo’oula waterfall on Molokai, green sea turtle and kayaking off Maui / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER surrounded by tropical gardens. A new adventure center offers UTVs (utility terrain vehicles) and horseback riding, among other activities. And Four Seasons took over the management of an adjacent seaside golf course, the grooming of which is now immaculate. (We walked through part of it after an Un-Cruise-led hike along the coast.) The Four Seasons Lodge at Koele, a 20-minute drive inland at an elevation of 1,600 feet, remains closed at the time of writing. Its renovations continue apace, and Four Seasons hopes to reopen the property by the end of 2016.

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10 HIDEAWAY REPORT JUNE 2016 the complimentary valet and checked in at the impressive koa wood front desk. Staffers there had attractive tote bags with towels and bottled water at the ready when we decided to head to the beach; and when we opted to return, a driver picked us up within minutes of our call. At the unusually named restaurant, Capische?, the waitstaff was also friendly and efficient, though the food was not as sophisticated as I had expected. My appetizer of quail saltimbocca would not have passed muster in Italy, and both it and my main course of crispy-skinned View of the pool from the lounge at Hotel Wailea / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER roasted snapper with winter squash tortelloni and chestnut-bourbon butter POST-CRUISE RELAXATION patio’s wicker-framed armchairs were were flavorful but unrelievedly brown perfectly situated for watching the sun in color. Nevertheless, the view from the disappear next to the neighboring islands restaurant’s lanai was inspiring, both at Hilltop Maui Retreat of Molokini and Kaho’olawe. sunset and at breakfast. If you plan to dine Inside, our suite proved equally after sunset, opt instead for the garden n order to ease our transition back to appealing. The large living room had oak patio, festooned with strings of lights. civilization following a week aboard plank floors, a sofa, wicker armchairs Unfortunately, the swimming pool has Ithe Safari Explorer, I sought a post- facing a long wood desk and a kitchen wall no view and overlooks the indoor-outdoor cruise stay at a luxury hideaway, some- with a refrigerator, Nespresso machine fitness center and the stylish indoor- where removed from the crowds and and sink with granite countertop. Pocket outdoor lobby lounge. We enjoyed the with memorable views of the Pacific. The doors opened to the bedroom and its king pool nevertheless, because the cabanas freshly renovated Hotel Wailea on Maui bed. In the bath, a deep tub stood next to lining it required no reservations or addi- appeared to have the requisite qualities. a broad shower space clad in fossilized tional fees. The property has no spa, but This 72-suite property stands on a coral stone. The wide single vanity, backed therapists perform a range of treatments hillside above one of my longtime Maui by a wall of travertine tile, had bright and in guest suites. recommendations, the Four Seasons well-placed lighting. Accent pillows and The Hotel Wailea won’t satisfy those Maui at Wailea. The Four Seasons is framed kapa cloths with abstract red who prefer to walk from their rooms to much larger, with 380 rooms, and has the patterns enlivened an otherwise neutral the beach, but for travelers in search of advantage of being right on the beach, color palette. a tranquil and plush retreat, and one less whereas the Hotel Wailea is five minutes Service never failed to be warm, than an hour from Maui’s airport, the away via a complimentary SUV transfer. from the moment we handed our keys to property is a fine choice. H (Both hotels have dedicated beach clubs.)

Those willing to forgo doorstep access Bedroom and patio of our Ocean View Suite at Hotel Wailea / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER to the sands will find tranquility at the Hotel Wailea, which is set amid 15 acres of mature tropical gardens. The key to happiness is reserving an Ocean View Suite. The Partial Ocean View and Garden View suites have the same spacious 720-square-foot layout, but they lack the unobstructed panoramas. (Suites with ocean views cost far less than similar accommodations at the Four Seasons.) Accommodations occupy 18 four-suite villas; Ocean View Suites on the upper A92 floors have the most favorable aspect. Hotel Wailea LIKE The peaceful location; the sweeping views; the uncrowded pool; the romantic restaurant. DISLIKE The lack Buildings 2, 3 and 5 enjoy the best location, of doorstep beach access. GOOD TO KNOW Nearby Wailea Wine (161 Wailea Ike Place) has a fine selection, facing a large pond as well as the ocean. including local wines and spirits, ideal for a toast on your patio or balcony. Partial Ocean View Suite, $665; Ocean View Our suite was on the ground floor of Build- Suite, $710. 555 Kaukahi Street, Wailea, HI 96753. Tel. (808) 874-0500. hotelwailea.com ing 7, with a patio instead of a balcony, A preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel that will be added toThe Andrew Harper Collection. but its views were still sensational. The Visit andrewharper.com for more information on this and ten additional recommendations in Hawaii.

JUNE 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 11 LAST LOOK LAST WORD Not So Fast

EVER SINCE THE REOPENING of the American Embassy last August, the big story in travel has been Cuba. The excitement is understandable. Cuba is by far the largest of the Caribbean islands (780 miles long), as well as the closest to the United States. It has more pristine white-sand beaches than the rest of the Caribbean put together, plus nine UNESCO World Heritage sites. (Aside from Old Havana, these include the 17th-century fortress of San Pedro de la Roca, in the island’s second city of Santiago de Cuba, and the 16th-century city of Trinidad, which is a living museum of Spanish colo- nial architecture.) One indication of the anticipated bonanza is that American Airlines has applied to operate 10 daily round-trip flights from Miami alone. View from the restaurant at Brancott Estate in New Zealand’s Marlborough wine region / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER On March 15, many travel restrictions were lifted, and on March 21, Air Force One duly touched down. New and Noteworthy Since then, I have been inundated with inquiries, most along the lines of “What’s your take on Cuba? Chief’s Camp Reinvented Are you going to cover it?” To which I invariably Botswana’s Okavango Delta is, for me, Africa’s greatest wildlife sanctuary. At its reply, “Cover what, precisely?” Cuba has been a heart is the Moremi Game Reserve, not for nothing known as the “predator capital communist country for 57 years, and things don’t change overnight. Which is not to say that it isn’t of Africa.” There, the famous Sanctuary Chief’s Camp has recently undergone a a fascinating and beautiful place. It’s just that complete renovation. The 10 new 1,500-square-foot pavilions all have private pools, luxury travel, of the sort that interests Hideaway floor-to-ceiling windows and outdoor showers. The pinnacle of indulgence, however, Report readers, will take years to establish. The is provided by the new two-bedroom 6,500-square-foot Geoffrey Kent Luxury Suite, most interesting development to date has been the which in addition to a pool, deck and fire pit, comes with its own private chef, house- agreement signed by Starwood Hotels to manage keeper and waiter, plus a dedicated vehicle and safari guide. two Havana hotels, the Hotel Inglaterra and the Hotel Santa Isabel, and to incorporate them in its Cuba Cruise Debut Luxury Collection. In my opinion, the best way to In January 2017, the French-flagged cruise line Ponant will become the first company see Cuba for now is from a Ponant luxury yacht (see to offer luxury cruises to Cuba from the United States. The seven- or eight-night sail- left). This will enable you to dip in and dip out, to eat ings will be aboard Le Ponant, a 290-foot, three-masted sailing yacht, with room for well and to avoid the discomforts of overland travel. By all means, go to see Cuba — I may well join you — 64 passengers. Ponant currently operates five vessels, which have become increas- but aboard a French cruise ship. That’s my advice. ingly popular with Harper subscribers, thanks to their stylish interiors, fine French cuisine and obliging multilingual staff. The Cuba voyages will be accompanied by Franklin W. Knight, professor emeritus of history at Johns Hopkins University.

Galápagos Family Friendly I have recently expanded two more of my personal For those who prefer to see the Galápagos Islands from a terrestrial base, especially travel guides: Mexico & Caribbean and Central & South those traveling with younger children, I recommend the Galapagos Safari Camp. America. Updates feature my hotel recommendations, regional notebooks, touring maps and restaurants. Located on Santa Cruz, one of two islands that have small towns and a degree of The Andrew Harper Collection books are available for development, it is situated in a transition zone between cultivated land and the US$25 at andrewharper.com/store/harper-collection. national park. The nine comfortable safari tents have recently been upgraded to They are also mailed bimonthly to Premier subscribers. To upgrade your subscription, contact clientrelations@ become more like tented suites, with additional furnishings and doors instead of andrewharper.com. zippers. The camp now also offers a spacious family suite, with a master bedroom and two twin rooms, as well as a playroom.

Free of hotel advertising since its inception in June 1979, Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report® is a private publication for sophisticated travelers. The selection of hotels and restaurants for inclusion is made on a completely independent basis, with Andrew Harper, LLC paying full rate for all meals, lodging and related travel expenses. Our commitment to editorial independence is unwavering. The Hideaway Report (ISSN 0884-7622) is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX 78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. Copyright 2016 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher. Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell Research Editor Adrienne Jany Photo Editor Kelly Zhu