Formulation of the Undertow Using Linear Wave Theory
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
Load more
Recommended publications
-
Coastal Flood Defences - Groynes
Coastal Flood Defences - Groynes Coastal flood defences are key to protecting our coasts against flooding, which is when normally dry, low lying flat land is inundated by sea water. Hard engineering methods are forms of coastal flood defences which mitigate the risk of flooding and coastal erosion and the consequential effects. Hard Engineering Hard engineering methods are often used as a temporary measure to protect against coastal flooding as they are costly and only last for a relatively short amount of time before they require maintenance. However, they are very effective at protecting the coastline in the short-term as they are immediately effective as opposed to some longer term soft engineering methods. But they are often intrusive and can cause issues elsewhere at other areas along the coastline. Groynes are low lying wood or concrete structures which are situated out to sea from the shore. They are designed to trap sediment, dissipate wave energy and restrict the transfer of sediment away from the beach through long shore drift. Longshore drift is caused when prevailing winds blow waves across the shore at an angle which carries sediment along the beach.Groynes prevent this process and therefore, slow the process of erosion at the shore. They can also be permeable or impermeable, permeable groynes allow some sediment to pass through and some longshore drift to take place. However, impermeable groynes are solid and prevent the transfer of any sediment. Advantages and Disadvantages +Groynes are easy to construct. +They have long term durability and are low maintenance. +They reduce the need for the beach to be maintained through beach nourishment and the recycling of sand. -
Coastal Processes and Causes of Shoreline Erosion and Accretion Causes of Shoreline Erosion and Accretion
Coastal Processes and Causes of Shoreline Erosion and Accretion and Accretion Erosion Causes of Shoreline Heather Weitzner, Great Lakes Coastal Processes and Hazards Specialist Photo by Brittney Rogers, New York Sea Grant York Photo by Brittney Rogers, New New York Sea Grant Waves breaking on the eastern Lake Ontario shore. Wayne County Cooperative Extension A shoreline is a dynamic environment that evolves under the effects of both natural 1581 Route 88 North and human influences. Many areas along New York’s shorelines are naturally subject Newark, NY 14513-9739 315.331.8415 to erosion. Although human actions can impact the erosion process, natural coastal processes, such as wind, waves or ice movement are constantly eroding and/or building www.nyseagrant.org up the shoreline. This constant change may seem alarming, but erosion and accretion (build up of sediment) are natural phenomena experienced by the shoreline in a sort of give and take relationship. This relationship is of particular interest due to its impact on human uses and development of the shore. This fact sheet aims to introduce these processes and causes of erosion and accretion that affect New York’s shorelines. Waves New York’s Sea Grant Extension Program Wind-driven waves are a primary source of coastal erosion along the Great provides Equal Program and Lakes shorelines. Factors affecting wave height, period and length include: Equal Employment Opportunities in 1. Fetch: the distance the wind blows over open water association with Cornell Cooperative 2. Length of time the wind blows Extension, U.S. Department 3. Speed of the wind of Agriculture and 4. -
Dispersion of Tsunamis: Does It Really Matter? and Physics and Physics Discussions Open Access Open Access S
EGU Journal Logos (RGB) Open Access Open Access Open Access Advances in Annales Nonlinear Processes Geosciences Geophysicae in Geophysics Open Access Open Access Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 13, 1507–1526, 2013 Natural Hazards Natural Hazards www.nat-hazards-earth-syst-sci.net/13/1507/2013/ doi:10.5194/nhess-13-1507-2013 and Earth System and Earth System © Author(s) 2013. CC Attribution 3.0 License. Sciences Sciences Discussions Open Access Open Access Atmospheric Atmospheric Chemistry Chemistry Dispersion of tsunamis: does it really matter? and Physics and Physics Discussions Open Access Open Access S. Glimsdal1,2,3, G. K. Pedersen1,3, C. B. Harbitz1,2,3, and F. Løvholt1,2,3 Atmospheric Atmospheric 1International Centre for Geohazards (ICG), Sognsveien 72, Oslo, Norway Measurement Measurement 2Norwegian Geotechnical Institute, Sognsveien 72, Oslo, Norway 3University of Oslo, Blindern, Oslo, Norway Techniques Techniques Discussions Open Access Correspondence to: S. Glimsdal ([email protected]) Open Access Received: 30 November 2012 – Published in Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci. Discuss.: – Biogeosciences Biogeosciences Revised: 5 April 2013 – Accepted: 24 April 2013 – Published: 18 June 2013 Discussions Open Access Abstract. This article focuses on the effect of dispersion in 1 Introduction Open Access the field of tsunami modeling. Frequency dispersion in the Climate linear long-wave limit is first briefly discussed from a the- Climate Most tsunami modelers rely on the shallow-water equations oretical point of view. A single parameter, denoted as “dis- of the Past for predictions of propagationof and the run-up. Past Some groups, on persion time”, for the integrated effect of frequency dis- Discussions the other hand, insist on applying dispersive wave models, persion is identified. -
Basic Concepts in Oceanography
Chapter 1 XA0101461 BASIC CONCEPTS IN OCEANOGRAPHY L.F. SMALL College of Oceanic and Atmospheric Sciences, Oregon State University, Corvallis, Oregon, United States of America Abstract Basic concepts in oceanography include major wind patterns that drive ocean currents, and the effects that the earth's rotation, positions of land masses, and temperature and salinity have on oceanic circulation and hence global distribution of radioactivity. Special attention is given to coastal and near-coastal processes such as upwelling, tidal effects, and small-scale processes, as radionuclide distributions are currently most associated with coastal regions. 1.1. INTRODUCTION Introductory information on ocean currents, on ocean and coastal processes, and on major systems that drive the ocean currents are important to an understanding of the temporal and spatial distributions of radionuclides in the world ocean. 1.2. GLOBAL PROCESSES 1.2.1 Global Wind Patterns and Ocean Currents The wind systems that drive aerosols and atmospheric radioactivity around the globe eventually deposit a lot of those materials in the oceans or in rivers. The winds also are largely responsible for driving the surface circulation of the world ocean, and thus help redistribute materials over the ocean's surface. The major wind systems are the Trade Winds in equatorial latitudes, and the Westerly Wind Systems that drive circulation in the north and south temperate and sub-polar regions (Fig. 1). It is no surprise that major circulations of surface currents have basically the same patterns as the winds that drive them (Fig. 2). Note that the Trade Wind System drives an Equatorial Current-Countercurrent system, for example. -
Coastal Circulation and Water-Column Properties in The
Coastal Circulation and Water-Column Properties in the War in the Pacific National Historical Park, Guam— Measurements and Modeling of Waves, Currents, Temperature, Salinity, and Turbidity, April–August 2012 Open-File Report 2014–1130 U.S. Department of the Interior U.S. Geological Survey FRONT COVER: Left: Photograph showing the impact of intentionally set wildfires on the land surface of War in the Pacific National Historical Park. Right: Underwater photograph of some of the healthy coral reefs in War in the Pacific National Historical Park. Coastal Circulation and Water-Column Properties in the War in the Pacific National Historical Park, Guam— Measurements and Modeling of Waves, Currents, Temperature, Salinity, and Turbidity, April–August 2012 By Curt D. Storlazzi, Olivia M. Cheriton, Jamie M.R. Lescinski, and Joshua B. Logan Open-File Report 2014–1130 U.S. Department of the Interior U.S. Geological Survey U.S. Department of the Interior SALLY JEWELL, Secretary U.S. Geological Survey Suzette M. Kimball, Acting Director U.S. Geological Survey, Reston, Virginia: 2014 For product and ordering information: World Wide Web: http://www.usgs.gov/pubprod Telephone: 1-888-ASK-USGS For more information on the USGS—the Federal source for science about the Earth, its natural and living resources, natural hazards, and the environment: World Wide Web: http://www.usgs.gov Telephone: 1-888-ASK-USGS Any use of trade, product, or firm names is for descriptive purposes only and does not imply endorsement by the U.S. Government. Suggested citation: Storlazzi, C.D., Cheriton, O.M., Lescinski, J.M.R., and Logan, J.B., 2014, Coastal circulation and water-column properties in the War in the Pacific National Historical Park, Guam—Measurements and modeling of waves, currents, temperature, salinity, and turbidity, April–August 2012: U.S. -
Acoustic Nonlinearity in Dispersive Solids
ACOUSTIC NONLINEARITY IN DISPERSIVE SOLIDS John H. Cantrell and William T. Yost NASA Langley Research Center Mail Stop 231 Hampton, VA 23665-5225 INTRODUCTION It is well known that the interatomic anharmonicity of the propagation medium gives rise to the generation of harmonics of an initially sinusoidal acoustic waveform. It is, perhaps, less well appreciated that the anharmonicity also gives rise to the generation of a static or "dc" component of the propagating waveform. We have previously shown [1,2] that the static component is intrinsically linked to the acoustic (Boussinesq) radiation stress in the material. For nondispersive solids theory predicts that a propagating gated continuous waveform (acoustic toneburst) generates a static displacement pulse having the shape of a right-angled triangle, the slope of which is linearly proportional to the magnitude and sign of the acoustic nonlinearity parameter of the propagation medium. Such static displacement pulses have been experimentally verified in single crystal silicon [3] and germanium [4]. The purpose of the present investigation is to consider the effects of dispersion on the generation of the static acoustic wave component. It is well known that an initial disturbance in media which have both sufficiently large dispersion and nonlinearity can evolve into a series of solitary waves or solitons [5]. We consider here that an acoustic tone burst may be modeled as a modulated continuous waveform and that the generated initial static displacement pulse may be viewed as a modulation-confined disturbance. In media with sufficiently large dispersion and nonlinearity the static displacement pulse may be expected to evolve into a series of modulation solitons. -
Observations of Nearshore Infragravity Waves: Seaward and Shoreward Propagating Components A
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH, VOL. 107, NO. C8, 3095, 10.1029/2001JC000970, 2002 Observations of nearshore infragravity waves: Seaward and shoreward propagating components A. Sheremet,1 R. T. Guza,2 S. Elgar,3 and T. H. C. Herbers4 Received 14 May 2001; revised 5 December 2001; accepted 20 December 2001; published 6 August 2002. [1] The variation of seaward and shoreward infragravity energy fluxes across the shoaling and surf zones of a gently sloping sandy beach is estimated from field observations and related to forcing by groups of sea and swell, dissipation, and shoreline reflection. Data from collocated pressure and velocity sensors deployed between 1 and 6 m water depth are combined, using the assumption of cross-shore propagation, to decompose the infragravity wave field into shoreward and seaward propagating components. Seaward of the surf zone, shoreward propagating infragravity waves are amplified by nonlinear interactions with groups of sea and swell, and the shoreward infragravity energy flux increases in the onshore direction. In the surf zone, nonlinear phase coupling between infragravity waves and groups of sea and swell decreases, as does the shoreward infragravity energy flux, consistent with the cessation of nonlinear forcing and the increased importance of infragravity wave dissipation. Seaward propagating infragravity waves are not phase coupled to incident wave groups, and their energy levels suggest strong infragravity wave reflection near the shoreline. The cross-shore variation of the seaward energy flux is weaker than that of the shoreward flux, resulting in cross-shore variation of the squared infragravity reflection coefficient (ratio of seaward to shoreward energy flux) between about 0.4 and 1.5. -
Hydrogeology of Near-Shore Submarine Groundwater Discharge
Hydrogeology and Geochemistry of Near-shore Submarine Groundwater Discharge at Flamengo Bay, Ubatuba, Brazil June A. Oberdorfer (San Jose State University) Matthew Charette, Matthew Allen (Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution) Jonathan B. Martin (University of Florida) and Jaye E. Cable (Louisiana State University) Abstract: Near-shore discharge of fresh groundwater from the fractured granitic rock is strongly controlled by the local geology. Freshwater flows primarily through a zone of weathered granite to a distance of 24 m offshore. In the nearshore environment this weathered granite is covered by about 0.5 m of well-sorted, coarse sands with sea water salinity, with an abrupt transition to much lower salinity once the weathered granite is penetrated. Further offshore, low-permeability marine sediments contained saline porewater, marking the limit of offshore migration of freshwater. Freshwater flux rates based on tidal signal and hydraulic gradient analysis indicate a fresh submarine groundwater discharge of 0.17 to 1.6 m3/d per m of shoreline. Dissolved inorganic nitrogen and silicate were elevated in the porewater relative to seawater, and appeared to be a net source of nutrients to the overlying water column. The major ion concentrations suggest that the freshwater within the aquifer has a short residence time. Major element concentrations do not reflect alteration of the granitic rocks, possibly because the alteration occurred prior to development of the current discharge zones, or from elevated water/rock ratios. Introduction While there has been a growing interest over the last two decades in quantifying the discharge of groundwater to the coastal zone, the majority of studies have been carried out in aquifers consisting of unlithified sediments or in karst environments. -
Mapping Current and Future Priorities
Mapping Current and Future Priorities for Coral Restoration and Adaptation Programs International Coral Reef Initiative (ICRI) Ad Hoc Committee on Reef Restoration 2019 Interim Report This report was prepared by James Cook University, funded by the Australian Institute for Marine Science on behalf of the ICRI Secretariat nations Australia, Indonesia and Monaco. Suggested Citation: McLeod IM, Newlands M, Hein M, Boström-Einarsson L, Banaszak A, Grimsditch G, Mohammed A, Mead D, Pioch S, Thornton H, Shaver E, Souter D, Staub F. (2019). Mapping Current and Future Priorities for Coral Restoration and Adaptation Programs: International Coral Reef Initiative Ad Hoc Committee on Reef Restoration 2019 Interim Report. 44 pages. Available at icriforum.org Acknowledgements The ICRI ad hoc committee on reef restoration are thanked and acknowledged for their support and collaboration throughout the process as are The International Coral Reef Initiative (ICRI) Secretariat, Australian Institute of Marine Science (AIMS) and TropWATER, James Cook University. The committee held monthly meetings in the second half of 2019 to review the draft methodology for the analysis and subsequently to review the drafts of the report summarising the results. Professor Karen Hussey and several members of the ad hoc committee provided expert peer review. Research support was provided by Melusine Martin and Alysha Wincen. Advisory Committee (ICRI Ad hoc committee on reef restoration) Ahmed Mohamed (UN Environment), Anastazia Banaszak (International Coral Reef Society), -
Hydrothermal Vent Fields and Chemosynthetic Biota on the World's
ARTICLE Received 13 Jul 2011 | Accepted 7 Dec 2011 | Published 10 Jan 2012 DOI: 10.1038/ncomms1636 Hydrothermal vent fields and chemosynthetic biota on the world’s deepest seafloor spreading centre Douglas P. Connelly1,*, Jonathan T. Copley2,*, Bramley J. Murton1, Kate Stansfield2, Paul A. Tyler2, Christopher R. German3, Cindy L. Van Dover4, Diva Amon2, Maaten Furlong1, Nancy Grindlay5, Nicholas Hayman6, Veit Hühnerbach1, Maria Judge7, Tim Le Bas1, Stephen McPhail1, Alexandra Meier2, Ko-ichi Nakamura8, Verity Nye2, Miles Pebody1, Rolf B. Pedersen9, Sophie Plouviez4, Carla Sands1, Roger C. Searle10, Peter Stevenson1, Sarah Taws2 & Sally Wilcox11 The Mid-Cayman spreading centre is an ultraslow-spreading ridge in the Caribbean Sea. Its extreme depth and geographic isolation from other mid-ocean ridges offer insights into the effects of pressure on hydrothermal venting, and the biogeography of vent fauna. Here we report the discovery of two hydrothermal vent fields on theM id-Cayman spreading centre. The Von Damm Vent Field is located on the upper slopes of an oceanic core complex at a depth of 2,300 m. High-temperature venting in this off-axis setting suggests that the global incidence of vent fields may be underestimated. At a depth of 4,960 m on the Mid-Cayman spreading centre axis, the Beebe Vent Field emits copper-enriched fluids and a buoyant plume that rises 1,100 m, consistent with > 400 °C venting from the world’s deepest known hydrothermal system. At both sites, a new morphospecies of alvinocaridid shrimp dominates faunal assemblages, which exhibit similarities to those of Mid-Atlantic vents. 1 National Oceanography Centre, Southampton, UK. -
Waves and Weather
Waves and Weather 1. Where do waves come from? 2. What storms produce good surfing waves? 3. Where do these storms frequently form? 4. Where are the good areas for receiving swells? Where do waves come from? ==> Wind! Any two fluids (with different density) moving at different speeds can produce waves. In our case, air is one fluid and the water is the other. • Start with perfectly glassy conditions (no waves) and no wind. • As wind starts, will first get very small capillary waves (ripples). • Once ripples form, now wind can push against the surface and waves can grow faster. Within Wave Source Region: - all wavelengths and heights mixed together - looks like washing machine ("Victory at Sea") But this is what we want our surfing waves to look like: How do we get from this To this ???? DISPERSION !! In deep water, wave speed (celerity) c= gT/2π Long period waves travel faster. Short period waves travel slower Waves begin to separate as they move away from generation area ===> This is Dispersion How Big Will the Waves Get? Height and Period of waves depends primarily on: - Wind speed - Duration (how long the wind blows over the waves) - Fetch (distance that wind blows over the waves) "SMB" Tables How Big Will the Waves Get? Assume Duration = 24 hours Fetch Length = 500 miles Significant Significant Wind Speed Wave Height Wave Period 10 mph 2 ft 3.5 sec 20 mph 6 ft 5.5 sec 30 mph 12 ft 7.5 sec 40 mph 19 ft 10.0 sec 50 mph 27 ft 11.5 sec 60 mph 35 ft 13.0 sec Wave height will decay as waves move away from source region!!! Map of Mean Wind -
Mapping Turbidity Currents Using Seismic Oceanography Title Page Abstract Introduction 1 2 E
Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Ocean Sci. Discuss., 8, 1803–1818, 2011 www.ocean-sci-discuss.net/8/1803/2011/ Ocean Science doi:10.5194/osd-8-1803-2011 Discussions OSD © Author(s) 2011. CC Attribution 3.0 License. 8, 1803–1818, 2011 This discussion paper is/has been under review for the journal Ocean Science (OS). Mapping turbidity Please refer to the corresponding final paper in OS if available. currents using seismic E. A. Vsemirnova and R. W. Hobbs Mapping turbidity currents using seismic oceanography Title Page Abstract Introduction 1 2 E. A. Vsemirnova and R. W. Hobbs Conclusions References 1Geospatial Research Ltd, Department of Earth Sciences, Tables Figures Durham University, Durham DH1 3LE, UK 2Department of Earth Sciences, Durham University, Durham DH1 3LE, UK J I Received: 25 May 2011 – Accepted: 12 August 2011 – Published: 18 August 2011 J I Correspondence to: R. W. Hobbs ([email protected]) Published by Copernicus Publications on behalf of the European Geosciences Union. Back Close Full Screen / Esc Printer-friendly Version Interactive Discussion 1803 Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Abstract OSD Using a combination of seismic oceanographic and physical oceanographic data ac- quired across the Faroe-Shetland Channel we present evidence of a turbidity current 8, 1803–1818, 2011 that transports suspended sediment along the western boundary of the Channel. We 5 focus on reflections observed on seismic data close to the sea-bed on the Faroese Mapping turbidity side of the Channel below 900m. Forward modelling based on independent physi- currents using cal oceanographic data show that thermohaline structure does not explain these near seismic sea-bed reflections but they are consistent with optical backscatter data, dry matter concentrations from water samples and from seabed sediment traps.