BORN FREE - WWD - APRIL 24 - FRONT COVER

ADVERTISEMENT

WWDTHURSDAY, APRIL 24, 2014 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00

FASHION’S LEADING WOMEN UNITE TO END MOTHER-TO-CHILD HIV TRANSMISSION

REL72_BF_2014_WWD COVERWRAP-v2_105773_REL72_v6.indd 1 4/17/14 5:47 PM

DATE MODIFIED: PREPARED BY NICOLAS APRIL 17, 2014 5:45 PM

CLIENT/SEASON: TOMMY HIFLIGER UNIT: COVERWRAP + C4 BLEED: 11in W x 15inH DESIGN JOB#: POSITION: TRIM: 10.75in W x 14.75inH MEDIA ISSUE DATE/ SAFETY: POSTING DATE: 4/24/14 10in W x 14inH PRODUCTION PUBLICATION: WWD CLOSING DATE: 4/17/14 CREATIVE: CLIENT SERVICES

BORN FREE - WWD - APRIL 24 - INSIDE FRONT COVER

INTRODUCING A LIMITED EDITION COLLECTION EXCLUSIVELY AT SHOPBOP.COM

REL72_BF_2014_WWD COVERWRAP-v2_105773_REL72_v6.indd 2 4/17/14 5:47 PM BASIC KEEPING TRAINING IT CASUAL MICHAEL KORS’ FUR CLASSIC STYLES ARE MAKING BLUE PUSH POLITICIANS AND OTHERS DONNED DENIM WEDNESDAY FALL LINEUP HAS A COMEBACK IN THE IN SUPPORT OF DENIM DAY AND A GUESS-LED A LAID-BACK EASE. MEN’S UNDERWEAR MARKET. INITIATIVE AGAINST SEXUAL VIOLENCE. PAGE MW7 PAGE 5 PAGE MW1

WWDTHURSDAY, APRIL 24, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY

Shining Armour Under Armour today will unveil a two-level, 20,000-square-foot screaming statement in SoHo as it opens the doors to its newest and largest Brand House on Broadway and Houston Streets. One of the most striking elements is a 30-by-16-foot video screen inside the front door with streaming images of various feats of athleticism. For an exclusive fi rst look at the store, see page 4.

PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN Primark to Launch in U.S. NEAR BROOKFIELD PLACE DEAL with its 2014 interim results update. By SAMANTHA CONTI Primark follows Joe Fresh into the U.S. market. Fresh is owned by Canada’s Saks Fifth Avenue Eyeing — The Weston family is prepar- Loblaw supermarket chain, which is ing for its mass fashion encore in the U.S. controlled by the Weston family, whose On Wednesday, Associated British vast retail portfolio also includes stores Downtown Store Location Foods plc, the publicly quoted company such as Selfridges, Holt Renfrew, Brown owned by the Weston family, revealed Thomas and Fortnum & Mason. ment on the Saks report. plans to take Primark to the U.S. market. Joe Fresh has been aggressively open- By DAVID MOIN WWD has also learned that Saks The fi rst Primark store will open in ing freestanding stores in the U.S., and plans to open an Off 5th outlet close Boston toward the end of 2015 on the site began opening shops-in-shop in J.C. NEW YORK — Saks Fifth Avenue is to Century 21 and the Westfi eld World of a former Filene’s department store, Penney units last year. The brand is now closing in on a second Manhattan loca- Trade Center, just east of Vesey Street. with 70,000 square feet of selling space. looking to expand into overseas markets. tion — a full-line store downtown. That would be the fi rst Saks Off 5th in The store will be in the historic During a call with financial ana- According to sources, the retailer . Burnham Building, which is currently lysts to discuss his company’s interim will soon sign a deal to open a store Brookfi eld Place, formerly known as being renovated, at Downtown Crossing. results, George Weston, ABF’s chief at Brookfi eld Place, which is between the World Financial Center, is undergo- Primark also plans to open warehouse executive offi cer, said “a handful” of Vesey Street and the Hudson River in ing a $250 million redevelopment, recon- facilities to supply future stores. Primark stores were planned for the lower Manhattan. fi guring its 250,000 square feet of retail “After extensive research, it has American northeast, and that Boston “Saks will anchor Brookfi eld Place, space and its restaurant components. been decided to take the concept to “feels like a good city” to plant the fi rst making it the undisputable luxury des- Last year, Brookfi eld Place executives consumers in the USA,” ABF said in a fl ag. He pointed to the city’s young and tination downtown,” said a source close said their development could accom- statement that came out simultaneously vibrant population, its abundance of to the talks. modate two small anchor tenants with colleges and universities and its pub- It could not be learned how much 25,000-square-foot and 20,000-square- lic transportation system, as well as its square footage Saks will take at foot spaces, but it’s possible Saks might “cultural connections” with Europe. Brookfield Place, though consider- take both, or even more space. Various Although Weston declined to put a ing the plan is for a full-line store, the new retail and dining experiences at price tag on the future openings, during space will be signifi cant. Saks would Brookfi eld Place are expected to be open the call one analyst proffered an esti- not comment Wednesday on the lower for business in about a year. mate 100 million to 200 million pounds, Manhattan site. Owned and managed by Brookfi eld or $168 million to $326 million at current Ed Hogan, national director of retail Office Properties, which has real SEE PAGE 6 leasing for Brookfi eld, declined to com- SEE PAGE 5 2 WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 24, 2014 WWD.COM Roy Files Lawsuit Against Jones THE BRIEFING BOX sive control of Ms. Roy’s brand and the trademarks.” IN TODAY’S WWD By VICKI M. YOUNG The lawsuit also said that Roy’s “rights to creative control and approval of designs were non-negotiable NEW YORK — Rachel Roy is trying to stop Jones conditions of the business relationship.” The court Apparel Group from selling her business to document specified that a critical aspect of the deal Bluestar Alliance for $14.6 million, a move that al- with Jones was that Roy “would at all times retain full Karolina Kurkova legedly was done without her consent. creative control over the designs that were to be sold in a color-blocked Roy has filed a lawsuit against Jones claiming under her name, and would have exclusive approval draped dress breach of a contractual agreement in connection with rights over the use of the trademarks.” from Roksanda the sale of her business, which allegedly was done Prior to the completion of the sale of Jones to Ilincic. For more “free and clear” of the designer’s approval rights. Sycamore, Jones had shut down Roy’s business. The celebrity fashion, The lawsuit was filed April 11 in a New lawsuit said the action was done to “evis- see WWD.com. York state court in Manhattan. Named as cerate” Roy’s Rachel Roy designer brand, defendants were Jones Investment Co. and that Jones was “stonewalling” all ef- Inc., Jones Apparel Group USA Inc. and forts by her to continue conducting her The Jones Group Inc. Jones has since business. The lawsuit also alleged that ex- been acquired by Sycamore Partners in a ecutives at Jones were incentivized to sell transaction valued at $2.2 billion. to Sycamore due to possible “golden para- KAMAU/BUZZFOTO/FILMMAGIC Neither Sycamore nor Bluestar were chute compensation” in excess of $53 mil- named as defendants in the suit. As the lion, and that it was Sycamore who wanted JOSIAH new owner of Jones, Sycamore executives Jones to “purge the Rachel Roy business.” BY declined comment on the legal matter. The lawsuit also alleged that Jones Rachel Roy PHOTO Roy entered into interrelated agree- went ahead with the deal with Bluestar ments with Jones in 2008 to develop and even though there were other parties who sell products under the Rachel Roy brand. Those were both interested in acquiring the Roy assets and Saks Fifth Avenue is closing in on a second Manhattan agreements include the transfer of intellectual prop- would honor Roy’s approval rights. PAGE 1 erty assets, an asset purchase agreement, a licensing There is also a Rachel Rachel Roy contempo- location, said to be a full-line store at Brookfield Place. agreement and an employment agreement establish- rary collection that is sold exclusively to Macy’s, ing Roy as artistic director for the Rachel Roy brand. which Jones will continue to produce. Associated British Foods plc, the publicly quoted company The agreements were drafted by Jones, and Roy Roy is seeking a declaration from the court that owned by the Weston family, revealed plans to take Primark to was not represented by counsel in connection with Jones had no authority to sell the Rachel Roy trade- the U.S. market. PAGE 1 those negotiations, the lawsuit said. marks without her “explicit approval.” In addition, According to the complaint, filed by her attorneys due to the alleged breach of the 2008 interrelated Under Armour today will open its newest and largest UA Brand at Kasowitz, Benson, Torres & Friedman, “Jones had agreements between Roy and Jones, she is seeking House — a two-level, 20,000-square-foot roaring statement — PAGE 4 no intention of actually partnering with Ms. Roy, but a rescission, or an undoing, of those agreements, in LEON/GETTYFERNANDO IMAGES in New York’s SoHo neighborhood. instead entered into these agreements under false addition to damages in the form of lost profits and pretenses, and now wrongfully seeks to take exclu- lost opportunities. Givenchy on Wednesday opened a 3,100-square-foot store at BY PHOTO the Wynn Resort Promenade in Las Vegas. PAGE 5

Mark Shand died Wednesday at age 62 from a fall he suffered P&G Earnings Up; Beauty Sales Dip after a charity auction at Sotheby’s in New York. PAGE 6

care and baby, feminine and fam- By MOLLY PRIOR Elizabeth Arden Inc. is the target of a possible acquisition offer ily care — net sales were down from South Korea’s LG Household & Healthcare Ltd. PAGE 6 across all but fabric care, which

PROCTER & GAMBLE CO.’S has been boosted by single-use de- Fendi is launching a charity project in collaboration with a net earnings gained 2 percent tergent packs such as Tide Pods. roster of high-profile women, including Tracey Emin, Gwyneth in the third quarter, but Wall Moeller added that P&G is PAGE 7 Street is holding out for more also making progress on its plans Paltrow and Cara Delevingne. consistent growth. to reduce head count: From The company reported net February 2012 through March Two of fashion’s own have cracked Time magazine’s annual list earnings for the three-month peri- 2014, P&G cut 8,000 jobs, repre- of the 100 most influential people in the world. PAGE 7 od of $2.64 billion, or 90 cents a di- senting a 13 percent reduction in luted share, compared with $2.59 its nonmanufacturing workforce. A growing number of men are taking responsibility for billion, or 88 cents, in the year-ear- “The elimination of duplica- selecting and buying underwear at traditional brick-and-mortar lier period. Net earnings attribut- tive roles and optimization of the Jon Moeller stores as well as online. PAGE MW1 able to P&G were $2.61 billion, supply chain can only be accre- compared with $2.57 billion a year tive to shareholders and reward- Pepsi next month will collaborate on a capsule collection with earlier. The company’s net sales in ing to surviving employees if a cals, to name a few. a number of fashion and technology brands. PAGE MW6 the quarter were essentially flat at stronger P&G emerges from this “We will continue to exit busi- $20.56 billion, compared with $20.6 reorganization,” wrote Consumer nesses where potential buyers Patagonia Inc. is adopting omnichannel into its business billion the previous year. Organic Edge Research analyst Javier can create more value than our- strategy this year. PAGE MW7 sales rose 3 percent. Escalante in a research note on selves,” he said. The results sent P&G’s share Wednesday. “P&G’s is a multi- For instance, in beauty, P&G price to a low of $79.38 at one point year turnaround and boils down signed an agreement to sell the ON WWD.COM Wednesday morning. Shares later to the caliber of [chief execu- DDF Skincare brand and its global closed down 0.3 percent to $80.36 tive officer A.G.] Lafley’s direct assets to the Designer Parfums CELEBRITY FASHION: This week, celebrities embraced on the New York Stock Exchange. reports at the [Global Business group. “This is a clear example of ultrabright colors that resulted in a few head-turning In the beauty segment, net sales Units], in our view.” P&G’s commitment to focus on core moments. For more, see WWD.com. declined 2 percent to $4.69 billion, He stated that P&G lacks the ex- brands and accelerate our beauty while organic sales gained 2 per- ecutive talent needed to make more business,” said a P&G spokesman. cent helped in part by new prod- assertive moves in beauty and per- Moeller reiterated P&G’s focus ucts in hair care, deodorants and sonal care, health and grooming, on productivity, calling attention FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA personal cleansing. The gain was and called for the company to look to P&G’s plans to redesign its sup- @ WWD.com/social partially offset by sales decreases outside the firm for new hires. ply chain in North America. He in the salon professional and skin- “P&G shareholders and em- noted that the effort could extend TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. care segments, primarily in Asia. ployees will benefit from attract- to other countries as well. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. Little was mentioned of ing external talent that could as- “We operate 35 manufacturing COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. the beauty category during sertively run P&G’s beauty and facilities in North America today, VOLUME 207, NO. 83. THURSDAY, APRIL 24, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and Wednesday’s call with analysts. health businesses,” he stated. only six of which are multibusiness two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine But Jon Moeller, P&G’s chief fi- On the marketing front, P&G or multicategory. We’re consolidat- Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, nancial officer, said the beauty expects to spend less on market- ing operations into multicategory Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, segment’s organic sales gain is ing than in prior years but de- sites located closer to the custom- NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West representative of the state of the clared that overall effectiveness ers and consumers we serve, al- Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 6356, overall beauty business, which will be well ahead of last year, lowing us to respond quickly to Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593, call 866-401-7801, or email customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment.com. has begun to slow somewhat. “We thanks to a changing media mix their needs and provide better ser- Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address should look at them as decent that relies more on digital efforts. vice at the best possible cost,” said changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. numbers,” Moeller told analysts. P&G’s Moeller said, “We Moeller. “We’re also transforming If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with Stifel analyst Mark Astrachan have no intention of letting up our distribution operations, con- your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be said, “P&G still needs to be more on the cost savings and produc- solidating customer shipping and mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request consistent” across the board, but tivity initiatives.” product customization operations to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. For reuse particularly in beauty. “Beauty P&G continues to trim non- into fewer distribution centers, permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. industry growth may have slowed, core businesses from the portfo- which are strategically located Occasionally we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we but it is still growing faster than lio. Moeller noted that over the closer to key customers and key believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR P&G’s beauty business, so the com- last six years, P&G has exited population centers, enabling 80 DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED pany is still underperforming.” businesses representing more percent of the business to be with- TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, Across P&G’s remaining prod- than $6 billion in sales, including in one day of the store shelf and UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND uct segments — grooming, health coffee, snacks and pharmaceuti- the shopper.” OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

4 WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 24, 2014 Under Armour Opens Brand House in N.Y.C.

men and women. And above the cash wrap By JEAN E. PALMIERI Views inside the UA Brand House is a 1,000-pound Under Armour wood logo. in SoHo, which opens today. The women’s selection includes a NEW YORK — Under Armour has T-shirt bar, harem pants and Modal shirts thrown down an impressive welcome mat that can be worn to the gym or on the — and a gauntlet — in SoHo. street, and there’s a large “capri zone” The $2 billion Baltimore-based active- offering the popular pants in bright wear brand today will open its newest colors and patterns. This includes the and largest UA Brand House — a two- number-one selling Armour Vent capri, level, 20,000-square-foot roaring brand a black pant with pops of neon colors, statement — at 583 Broadway, between that is merchandised with matching Ts. Houston and Prince Streets. Sprinkled in is the Pretty Gritty collec- “Welcome to our house,” said Susie tion of more fashionable apparel such McCabe, Under Armour Inc.’s senior vice as mesh overshirts and slouchy sweats. president of global retail, who joined There’s a separate yoga section as well the company last fall after 16 years with as another designated for spin. Ralph Lauren Corp., quoting one of the “This is how women are living today,” brand’s well-known tag lines. McCabe said. “They’re much more active.” The store is more than twice the Each of the fitting rooms has a name size of the company’s Brand House at that corresponds to a location where the Harbor East in Baltimore, where Under company has a presence or a collabora- Armour is headquartered,’’ and offers the tion. Lights brighten automatically upon most comprehensive selection of men’s, entering and there are large murals of women’s and children’s apparel, accesso- cities such as London, Baltimore and ries and footwear in the country. Under New York covering the walls. Armour also operates stores in Annapolis Downstairs is where the running and Bethesda, Md., and at Tysons Corner merchandise is housed. There’s a in McLean, Va. large assortment of shoes for men and “This is the start of a strategy,” McCabe women, focused on the newly launched said. “We’re incredibly pleased with the Speedform, the only running shoe to be performance at Harbor East and Tysons created in a bra factory. Customers can Corner, and this gives us the opportunity try on the shoes by sitting in one of the to tell our story ourselves. The assortment “thrones,” large leather chairs with wood is a little broader and we anticipate that it frames. T-shirts, shorts, jackets, vests — will be accretive and incremental to us as many with reflectivity — are found here well as our wholesale accounts.” as are women’s skorts and apparel. The rear of the lower level is where the kids area — Next — is located. “This is our largest youth presence in the com- This is such a hotbed pany,” McCabe said. Tucked in the corner on the lower level is the Rowhouse Basement, a VIP of international and area that is a nod to the company’s be- FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE ginnings in founder Kevin Plank’s grand- we think we can grow WWD.com/ mother’s basement in Georgetown. Here, menswear-news. the small men’s lifestyle collection, 35th our international and O, is sold, and there’s a television, bar and refrigerator where athletes and brand awareness other celebrities can shop in private. by being here. — SUSIE MCCABE, UNDER ARMOUR INC.

Under Armour is also sold at Modell’s, Foot Locker, Sports Authority and Macy’s Herald Square in New York City. Even so, McCabe believes the brand is significant- ly underpenetrated here. “For how sizable the New York market is, we know we have opportunity to gener- ate very good volume,” she said, declining to provide a sales projection for the store. She stressed, however, that Under Armour is “committed to this being a [real] business, not just marketing.”’’ Opening a store of this size and scope in New York will undoubtedly lead to increased awareness among consum- ers. “New York and this store will help with our strategic initiatives, which are to continue to grow men’s and go after ERICKSEN KYLE the women’s and footwear categories in a bigger way,” McCabe said. PHOTOS BY Under Armour is also beefing up its international presence, and the store is ambassadors performing various ath- cool. Colorful T-shirts, shorts and capris The store features New York-specific expected to help with that as well. In the letic feats and also showcases product. are front and center. “We’re known for merchandise including Mets and fourth quarter, the company reported that The screen is opposite a “living wall” our capris in women’s, but now men are Yankees Ts as well as innovative graph- while revenues outside of North America that replicates one at the company’s wearing them too,” McCabe said, “layer- ics such as a running Statue of Liberty accounted for just 5.5 percent of sales, the headquarters and features 2,000 plants. ing them under shorts.” for men, women and kids. plan is to eventually have overseas sales “It’s reminiscent of our brand: a living, The store offers some “elevated train- To introduce the store to customers, generate half the company’s volume. breathing, growing thing,” McCabe said. ing product,” higher-priced merchandise Under Armour will unleash a number “This is such a hotbed of international The company’s mission statement — that is designed to be worn to and from of marketing initiatives over the next and we think we can grow our interna- “To Make All Athletes Better Through the gym. Compression shirts, colorful few weeks featuring sponsored athlete tional brand awareness by being here,” Passion, Design and the Relentless socks, backpacks and an array of other appearances, billboards, trucks driving McCabe said. “Some of the best retail on Pursuit of Innovation” — is also dis- products are available. through the city, radio spots, newspaper earth is in SoHo and there’s a great bal- played at the entrance. There’s a sizable golf area for men advertising and workouts. ance of local, domestic and international The main floor is home to men’s and that includes traditional polos and long Looking beyond SoHo, McCabe said tourists that come here.” women’s non-running apparel, with men’s pants as well as a display of performance that Under Armour continues to look Upon entering the New York flagship, wear on the left and women’s on the right. chinos. That’s followed by an outdoor ac- for retail locations around the coun- customers are greeted by a 30-by-16-foot “Everything in the store has performance tion section with boardshorts, tank tops, tr y. “We’re not going to be in 300 malls,” video screen lit by 2.6 million LED lights. attributes,” she said, pointing to men’s fleece hoodies, hats and accessories. she said. “We’re looking for quality over The video is on a 22-minute continuous wear featuring the Armour Vent heat- At the rear of the store is the Under quantity. But we are looking for the best loop that includes the company’s brand dumping technology to help keep athletes Armour underwear presentation for both locations in appropriate markets.” WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 24, 2014 5 WWD.COM

The Givenchy store in Las Vegas. Givenchy’s U.S. Push Starts in Vegas done in lacquered wood and natural oak By JESSICA IREDALE parquet, a nod to the boxes used to de- liver Givenchy haute couture orders, and IN HIS NINE-YEAR tenure at Givenchy, the floors of the couture salons on Avenue Riccardo Tisci has built the brand into a George V in Paris. The entrance is done en- highly influential fashion powerhouse. tirely in American marble, and accessories And yet the label had no retail pres- are presented in marble wall niches and ence of its own in the U.S. recently until white lacquered console tables lined in Wednesday, when Givenchy opened a stainless steel. 3,100-square-foot store at the Wynn Resort The Las Vegas store opened with the Promenade in Las Vegas. spring men’s and women’s ready-to-wear The store is the first step in the house’s collections, as well as men’s and women’s North American retail strategy. “This accessories and footwear. Additionally, opening constitutes a major milestone for three limited-edition small Shark Chain Givenchy as it is our maison’s first store bags, in red crocodile skin with red nappa in North America,” said Sebastian Suhl, lining, lambskin leather and pale gold FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE Givenchy’s chief executive officer. “The hardware will be sold exclusively in the United States is a strategic market for Las Vegas store. WWD.com/ Givenchy and we shall roll fashion-news. out retail units in other key cities during 2014.” Inside the Las Vegas unit. THOMAS IANNACCONE Givenchy has taken a site for a New York store on PHOTOS BY Madison Avenue, which it plans to open this year. Its previous store on Madison Michael Kors Furs: Uptown chic with On the sportier side, the Avenue closed in 2008. laid-back ease — a combination designer had a mink hoodie and a The Las Vegas store’s Michael Kors knows well. He sleeveless sable sweatshirt. A soft design echoes that of the infused the sentiment into his mink skirt and scarf in java and Faubourg Saint-Honoré flag- fall fur lineup, which captured a taupe tie-dye, meanwhile, nodded ship, evoking the elegance casual, everyday vibe. It included to a hippie sensibility. Shown and dark romance that have a men’s wear-inspired chevron- with a cashmere turtleneck, the become house signatures pattern blazer and tailored coat, in look was luxurious without being under Tisci. Ready-to-wear taupe, vanilla and charcoal. overly precious. is displayed in large boxes Saks Eyes Opening Downtown New York Store

South Street Seaport downtown is under- {Continued from page one} Brookfield Place will potentially be going a redevelopment and will be seek- estate in the U.S., Canada and , Saks’ second New York home. ing to attract a higher grade of retailing. Brookfield Place has the advantages of The move by Saks to Brookfield Place being scenically situated on the Hudson only solidifies the perception of lower River waterfront; having links to 11 Manhattan as a growing mecca for luxu- subway lines, the Path train and ferries r y. In 2017, Barneys New York will open going to New Jersey, and providing more a 57,000-square-foot store at Seventh than 8 million square feet of office space Avenue and 16th Street, its old stomp- with five towers designed by César Pelli. ing grounds. That will give Barneys a It’s got a wide demographic, attracting second major Manhattan location, just locals living in and around Battery Park like Saks will have once it opens in City, tourists from around the world visit- Brookfield Place. ing the World Trade Center and the ar- Bloomingdale’s already has two loca- ea’s large office population. tions in Manhattan, its flagship on 59th Among its amenities, Brookfield Place Street and Lexington Avenue, and its will have a dining terrace of upscale specialty concept on Broadway in SoHo. casual eateries and a European-style Bloomingdale’s has at times examined marketplace similar to Eataly, which is the west side for another store, including on Fifth Avenue between 23rd and 24th MITRA Hudson Yards, but for now at least has no Streets. The centerpiece is the 10-story plans for a third Manhattan site. Macy’s,

Winter Garden glass pavilion for public ROBERT too, has at times considered another loca- events, shops and restaurants and the tion in Manhattan, uptown and downtown. waterfront esplanade. For the foreseeable future, Saks will The decision by Saks to open its sec- PHOTO BY have its hands full with construction ond full-line store in Manhattan heats up Charles and Calypso. A total of 40 stores Efforts to sign up luxury and upscale projects. In addition to going downtown, the battle to land upscale fashion tenants are expected. brands are complicated by Hudson the company is close to finalizing plans between Brookfield Place and nearby Meanwhile, Westfield, with about Yards, a huge project under development for $250 million worth of renovations at Westfield World Trade Center. Brookfield 365,000 square feet for retailers, is re- on the west side of Midtown Manhattan. its Manhattan flagship between 49th and Place has been steadily roping in fash- portedly in late stage talks with Giorgio Hudson Yards is in talks with Neiman 50th Streets, where major objectives will ion tenants including Hermès, Salvatore Armani, Tom Ford and Tiffany & Co., Marcus and other retailers and brands be to beef up the accessories, jewelry and Ferragamo, Ermenegildo Zegna, Theory, though tenants have yet to be revealed. but none have been unveiled yet. Coach, beauty businesses, among others. Saks’ Scoop, Michael Kors, Bonobos, Equinox, The World Trade Center is not being con- L’Oréal and Time Warner all will be parent, Hudson’s Bay Co., also owns Lord Diane von Furstenberg, Judith & figured for a major anchor tenant. headquartered there, however. Also, the & Taylor and Hudson’s Bay in Canada. 6 WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 24, 2014 OBITUARY Elizabeth Arden Being Eyed by LG Mark Shand, 62 The company in February posted second-quarter re- By VICKI M. YOUNG sults in which net income fell to $35 million, or $1.16 a di- luted share, from $44.8 million, or $1.47, in the prior-year By SAMANTHA CONTI SHARES OF ELIZABETH ARDEN INC. jumped 11.9 per- period. Net sales for the period declined to $418.1 million cent Wednesday after the disclosure that it is the target from $467.9 million. The fragrance business in the U.S. LONDON — Mark Shand, elephant lover, author, of a possible acquisition offer from South Korea’s LG was one of the weaker components of its overall business, charity fund-raiser, auctioneer and all-round ad- Household & Healthcare Ltd. as was its international fragrance business in Europe. venturer, died Wednesday at age 62 from a fall he Arden is one of several possible acquisition candi- In addition to its core Arden brand, the firm has fra- suffered after a charity auction at Sotheby’s in dates that LG has targeted. grance licenses for True Religion, BCBG Max Azria, Nicki New York for the Big Egg Hunt event organized An Arden spokeswoman said Wednesday, “We can- Minaj and Justin Bieber. by jewelry company Fabergé. not comment on rumors.” A spokeswoman for LG said, B. Riley senior analyst Linda Bolton Weiser said, “We have According to Clarence House in London, “Elizabeth Arden is one of the companies being reviewed said that we believe Arden could be a take-out candidate, Shand died in a New York hospital as a result of by our company as a possible target but, at this point of because of Arden’s coveted Elizabeth Arden prestige beau- a serious head injury that he sustained during a time, there is nothing definitive we can comment on.” At ty franchise and the inconsistent execution over the years, fall Tuesday night. press time, Sun Moon, the investor relations team leader which has resulted in a chronically low valuation for the Shand was the brother of the Duchess of in Korea, had not yet responded to a request for comment. stock.” She added, “We get the sense that, given the vast mar- Cornwall and the brother-in-law of Prince Seoul-based LG owns the Korean beauty brands Whoo gin improvement that Arden could theoretically still make Charles. He had one daughter, Ayesha, with his and O Hui. In 2010, it acquired Korean brand The Face in the future even as a stand-alone company, Arden’s board former wife, Clio Goldsmith. Shop for $363 million. In 2012, LG acquired Japanese brand might be reluctant to sell unless the valuation is quite high.” “It is with deep sadness that we have to con- Everlife for $307 million. It also has a joint venture with Weiser is one of several analysts who speculated that they firm that the ’s brother, Mark Coty Inc. to sell Coty’s Philosophy skin-care line in Asia. thought Coty Inc. could be interested in Arden as well. So far Shand, has today passed away in New York,” Shares of Arden closed at $31.83, giving it a market Coty has not publicly expressed any interest in Arden. said Clarence House. “The duchess, the Prince capitalization of roughly $931.6 million. — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM JULIE NAUGHTON of Wales and all her family members are utterly devastated by this sudden and tragic loss. Mark Shand was a man of extraordinary vitality, a tire- less campaigner and conservation- Westons to Bring Primark to U.S. ist whose incred- {Continued from page one} Cantor Fitzgerald Europe Research in said Primark expects to open more ible work through exchange, in up-front costs, including London, said the U.S. is a natural mar- than a million square feet of new The Elephant new stores, warehousing and shop fits. ket for Primark to enter, and that its space this year, accelerating growth. Family and be- An industry observer said the U.S. mass-market pricing could undercut “Following recent store openings yond remained rollout would be similar to those in many of its local competitors. “It’s clear in France, Primark’s European his focus right up Europe: “ABF opens a small number they are serious about the U.S. market footprint now covers seven coun- until his death.” of stores at first, they look and they and want to succeed, which is why they tries — France, Spain, Germany, the 40613 - photo from 1991, credit: Shand was in learn and then they go forward.” want to test it out first,” he said. Netherlands, Belgium, Austria [and] Richard Fraser New York to over- Primark is a mass-market fashion “Primark’s combination of fast Portugal. But unlike most of its peers, see a Sotheby’s retailer beloved of bargain-hunters fashion, decent quality and bar- Primark has not taken the low-risk R

auction to raise ASE across Europe and its Oxford Street gain-basement prices in a depart- franchise option. All its international R

funds for his char- F flagship in London has become a ment store format will be unique stores are company-owned, the busi- D ity, The Elephant R tourist destination. It has more and successful in the U.S. market,” ness effectively backing itself and Family, which than 250 stores in eight countries said Craig Johnson, president of putting its money where its mouth is. RICHA seeks to pre- Mark Shand across Europe: Paris will have three Customer Growth Partners. “In the Higher risk, but higher reward.” serve the Asian in 1991. Primark units by the end of the year U.K., Primark is a phenomenon, and Cushman & Wakefield, which repre- elephant, and the PHOTO BY and major new locations are set for even though its expansion in conti- sented Millennium Partners in its long- New York City Cologne, Cardiff and Berlin. The nental Europe is still in its first few term retail lease with Primark at the charity Action for Children. The auction was the company said Wednesday it also years, we’ve been tracking its prog- Millennium Tower/Burnham Building, grand finish to the Big Egg Hunt, organized by plans to increase its warehousing ress and its uptake has been very said Primark will lease a total of Fabergé, which began April 1 and saw more than space in Spain and Germany to keep strong. Primark is like a Wal-Mart 112,000 square feet on four floors in 250 different egg sculptures placed around New up with demand at its stores there. for apparel only, but with a fashion the eight-story building of which 70,000 York’s five boroughs. The eggs were created by The retailer is also present sensibility much nearer to H&M, square feet will be selling space. designers including Carolina Herrera, Cynthia in cities such as Rotterdam, the with fast fashion, basics, shoes and The U.S., because of its size, di- Rowley, Marchesa and Olivier Theyskens. Netherlands; Innsbruck, Austria; accessories, both market and owned verse population and shopping habits Fabergé and Sotheby’s declined comment Lisbon, and Madrid, and has conces- brands, housed in a midtier depart- that differ from those in Europe, has Wednesday on Shand’s death, referring calls to sions at Selfridges stores in London, ment store — and with a bit better a reputation as a graveyard for U.K. Clarence House. Birmingham and Manchester, quality than H&M or Forever 21. By businesses looking to expand there. Shand founded his elephant charity in 2002 England. The stores stock baby and our calculations, Primark is running The most recent failure was Tesco’s with four partners and help from financial back- children’s wear, women’s and men’s at over $800 a square foot, exception- Fresh & Easy supermarket chain, ers such as Sir Evelyn de Rothschild and Bruce wear, homeware, accessories and ally high annual productivity for a which pulled out of the U.S. last year Weber. Goldie Hawn, Diane von Furstenberg and beauty products. Prices range from department store.” following a severe contraction in Ben and Zac Goldsmith later came on board. children’s T-shirts at 1.50 pounds, or In the U.S., retailers are seen 2012-13 profits. Shand established the charity after riding an $2.52, and a gilet with fake fur trim stepping up store closings. Primark George said he did not see any con- Indian elephant, Tara, on an 800-mile journey at 9 pounds, or $15.12, to a tasseled is seen as a likely taker for vacated nection whatsoever between Tesco’s across India, a journey he detailed in his book shoulder bag for 12 pounds, or $20.16, sites, particularly those from Sears announcement last week that it plans “Travels on My Elephant.” “Tara taught me more and a men’s two-button tweed jacket and J.C. Penney. Johnson said typical to open seven stores for its F&F mass- about myself than anything I’ve done before,” for 35 pounds, or $58.80. Primark Primark stores are 70,000 to 80,000 market clothing line — also on the Shand told W magazine in 1991, when the title opened its first store in Dublin in square feet, with the Oxford Street east coast of the U.S. — later this year, was still part of WWD’s parent, Fairchild. “Above 1969 under the name Penneys, and flagship in London much larger. through a franchise partnership with all, she taught me humility. It’s difficult to be self- Penneys remains its trading name in Stephen Springham, senior retail Retail Group of America. important when you’re riding a beast that could the Republic of Ireland only. analyst at Planet Retail, a consulting — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS crush you at will.” Freddie George, retail analyst at firm that’s part of the WGSN Group, FROM DAVID MOIN Shand was almost the stereotype of the English gentleman playboy, with a rugged movie- star handsomeness; a syrupy voice deepened by chain smoking, and a charm so effortless it im- mediately put everyone at ease. The son of a for- Mobile Growth Boosts Facebook in Quarter mer military man, he spent the first part of his FACEBOOK’S PUSH into mobile helped lead it to big retailers to reach out via Facebook. adult life traveling the globe, buying and selling top- and bottom-line gains in the first quarter. “One recent powerful example is Sport Chek, antiques, vintage jewelry and objets d’art The social media giant said Wednesday afternoon that Canada’s largest sports retailer,” he said. “They recently with his friend, Harry Fane. When the business mobile ads made up 59 percent of its overall ad revenue decided to pull their paper circulars, which their com- turned serious, though, Shand said he couldn’t in the first quarter — or about $1.3 billion. That’s a sub- pany had relied on as its primary ad vehicle for 92 years, bear the thought of wearing a suit every day. He stantial gain from a year earlier, when mobile accounted for two weeks, and replaced them completely with digi- decided to keep traveling around Africa, India for about 30 percent of the overall advertising take. Total tal spend, a majority of which was on Facebook. During and . ad revenue grew 82 percent to $2.27 billion during the those two weeks, national in-store sales grew 12 percent In 1987, he, Fane and photographer Don quarter — what chairman and chief executive officer year-over-year and in-store sales of the items they pro- McCullin took a trip to the jungles of Indonesia Mark Zuckerberg called the company’s strongest growth moted on Facebook grew 23 percent.” because Shand wanted to buy a shrunken head. rate in nearly three years on the company’s earnings call. And the company’s mobile user base is continuing to grow. He succeeded — not without numerous mishaps This led to a profit increase of 193 percent to $642 mil- Mobile daily active users averaged 609 million for the that included his constant hypochondria, run-ins lion, or 25 cents a diluted share. first quarter, year-over-year growth of 43 percent. Mobile with cannibals and squabbles over everything Investors liked what they saw and pushed the stock up monthly active users hit 1.01 billion for the first time as from the itinerary to the food. Shand wrote about 3.3 percent to $63.41 in after-hours trading. of March 31 — a 34 percent increase year-over-year. it all in “Skulduggery.” Asked why he took the Mobile has been an area of intense focus for “We recently reached 100 million monthly actives in trip, Shand told M magazine in 1988, shortly after Facebook, which recently agreed to buy mobile-messag- India, and through this we’re looking to build on this kind the magazine launched for the first time: “I just ing firm WhatsApp for $19 billion. of success,” Zuckerberg said of global mobile adoption like to travel to remote places and see cultures EMarketer projected that 65 percent of Facebook’s rates. He added that working with mobile operators in the that few other people have seen. We certainly ad revenue would come from mobile this year, and this Philippines and Paraguay doubled the number of people don’t do it for any macho reason because basi- would jump to more than 75 percent in 2016. using mobile data with Facebook partners in those regions. cally we’re terrified all the time.” On the call, Zuckerberg highlighted the potential for — RACHEL STRUGATZ

w24a006a.indd 6 4/23/14 8:11 PM 04232014201502 WWD, Thursday,WWD April THURSDAY, 24, 2014 APRIL 7 24, 2014 7 WWD.COM

In a snappy turn of phrase, Lyons finished her piece by adding: “The worlds of fashion and commerce have FASHION SCOOPS MEMO PAD changed dramatically in the past 10 years, in part because of a woman who GRAND OPENING: On May 5, Michelle campaigns for Marc Jacobs and Louis TIME 100’s FASHION ELITE: Two of fashion’s likens herself to a lazy rock. I’m buying Obama will officially open the Costume Vuitton, and has designed accessories own have cracked Time magazine’s stock in rocks.” — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD Institute’s new Anna Wintour Costume for Vuitton. She interned at Chanel at annual list of the 100 most influential Center. The First Lady is set to cut the age of 15, and also briefly had her people in the world. Along with LUXURY PLAY: Bloomberg News is making the ribbon for it at the Metropolitan own clothing line, Milkfed. — M.S. fellow power elites, Phoebe Philo and a heavy push with its luxury coverage, Museum of Art. The event will take Natalie Massenet will be featured in the and it’s starting with digital. place on the morning of the annual FULL COURT PRESS: Neiman Marcus magazine, which hits newsstands Friday. According to an internal memo Costume Institute gala, and Obama Group Ltd. LLC strengthened its public Time will release the top 100 results obtained by WWD, Chris Rovzar, the will also speak at the ceremony. relations team Wednesday with the on its Web site today, and will honor former digital editor of Vanity Fair, will It was unclear at press time if the addition of Mimi Crume Sterling as vice winners on Tuesday at its annual gala in help Bloomberg build its editorial vision First Lady is also attending the gala, president of corporate communications New York. for luxury. This includes developing its which celebrates the “Charles James: and public relations. Sterling, a veteran The list is comprised of several luxury news product for terminal users, Beyond Fashion” exhibition. communications specialist categories including leaders and as well as some un-gated content for — MARC KARIMZADEH FOR MORE who previously worked revolutionaries, builders and titans, Bloomberg’s Web site. SCOOPS, SEE at Hearst Magazines, artists and entertainers, scientists and “Chris will bridge the News and PEEKABOO FOR A CAUSE: Assouline, Hermès and thinkers and heroes and icons. Typically, Media groups’ global luxury coverage, Marking the opening of WWD.com other firms, reports to Frank the chosen 100 are introduced to readers which has seen exceptional success its new Fendi flagship in Kern, senior vice president via a short story penned by a fellow with the 2012 launch of Bloomberg London on May 1, the of brand marketing, public leader in his or her industry. Pursuits,” said Bloomberg editor in -based luxury relations and the InCircle rewards This year, designer Stella McCartney chief Matt Winkler and Businessweek company is launching program. She is relocating to Dallas wrote a story on her friendship with editor in chief Josh Tyrangiel in the e-mail a charity project from New York with her husband Philo, Céline’s creative director. sent to staffers Wednesday. in collaboration and two small children, the McCartney recounted their first meeting “The magazine’s advertising pages with a roster company said. at Central Saint Martins in London 20 this year are up 50 percent from the of high-profile Though the titles aren’t years ago, offering that she and Philo same period one year ago, and luxury women including identical, Sterling is considered became fast, “inseparable” friends. and lifestyle content is an area where artist Tracey Emin; a successor for Gabrielle de Papp, “One of the few female designers, she we will continue to invest and develop actresses Gwyneth the vice president of corporate celebrates the simple and champions across all platforms.” Paltrow and Naomie public relations who left the quality and reality of a woman’s Rovzar, who started his new job Harris; models Cara the company last July to join wardrobe,” McCartney wrote. “When Wednesday, reports to Tyrangiel. His Delevingne, Jerry Hall Farfetch. Longtime company people invest in her work, they have it title is still to be determined. and her daughter spokeswoman Ginger Reeder for life. One of the things we share is the On its Bloomberg Now blog, Justin Adele’s take Georgia May Jagger; reports to Sterling and has had reality that the clothes we design are Smith, Bloomberg Media’s newly minted on Fendi’s architect Zaha Hadid; fashion her title shift from vice president actually worn.” chief executive officer, underscored the Peekaboo bag. illustrator Tanya Ling; singer of corporate communications J. Crew’s president and creative importance of luxury to the organization Adele, and journalist Kate Adie, who to vice president of media relations director Jenna Lyons penned the item last month. will customize the brand’s Peekaboo and corporate giving. Sandy Marple, vice on Massenet, Net-a-porter’s founder Smith indicated that Pursuits handbag. The personalized items will president of special events, also reports and executive chairman. Lyons, who would increase its print frequency and be displayed at Fendi’s new boutique to Sterling. herself was named to Time’s top 100 last “integrate Pursuits across platforms, on New Bond Street from May 2 and — HOLLY HABER year, gave a less personal, but no less including TV and events.” will be available for purchase through laudatory intro. Sources said that the quarterly magazine a dedicated online auction at fendi. “The word visionary is lofty, overused. will become a bimonthly publication by 2015, com/peekaboo-auction May 1 to May Somewhat abused. There are few people and that Rovzar will likely play a role in 30 to raise funds for the London and who can really see something that developing its digital presence. Additionally, Bristol-based Kids Company. doesn’t exist. Create it. Explain it. And it’s rumored that Bloomberg’s luxury push “Growing up in a family of strong get others to follow. Natalie Massenet is, won’t roll out until the end of 2014 or by the and pioneering females, I am excited in fact, that visionary,” Lyons wrote. first quarter of 2015, at the earliest.— A.S. that such iconic women, leaders in their own fields, have been involved in this project, on this iconic Fendi bag,” said Silvia Venturini Fendi. “This project will not only allow Fendi to work with these incredible women, but also to raise valuable funds for Kids Company and STEVE EICHNER help support their important work.”

— LUISA ZARGANI PHOTO BY For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. The scene at Purses & Pursenalities. GIRL POWER: Pharrell Williams is trying on another interesting hat: curator. IN THE BAG: A slew of social types Next month, the musician is to unveil took over The Metropolitan Club in Announcements an exhibition titled “Girl” — the same Manhattan on Wednesday afternoon for Spaces moniker as his sophomore album, and the Madison Square Boys & Girls Club’s a forthcoming scent with Comme des ninth annual Purses & Pursenalities LUXURY RETAIL CAREER FAIR COMMERCIAL We are seeking individuals with great Garçons — at Emmanuel Perrotin’s new Luncheon and Auction. Before settling energy and a strong interest in the space in Paris, the Salle de Bal. It is to down for lunch, guests surveyed the REAL ESTATE industry. To attract the best talent, we will be hosting a Career Fair on MANUFACTURER REPS WANTED feature 40 works by prominent artists, bags up for grabs in the silent auction. Friday, May 2nd between the hours of Current reps make $100k+. Our fashi- 11:00 am and 4:00 pm, located at the on earbuds, iPhone cases sell in 5000+ most of them female, including Marina Michael Kors, Kara Ross, Badgley Courtyard by Marriott Lyndhurst stores. If you sell to fashion accessory Abramovic, Sophie Calle, Cindy Sherman and Mishka, Giorgio Armani, Jason Wu, Meadowlands. We are expanding in all buyers, email: [email protected]. areas - Supply Chain, Inventory, Tracey Emin. The showcase Carlos Falchi, Eric Javits, Oscar de Quality Control and Assurance, ABS/ BLUE PEARL opens May 27 and runs la Renta, Marc by Marc Jacobs, 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes Shipping/Receiving, Logistics, SALES DEVELOPMENT Menswear Showrooms Information Technology, and SPECIALIST through June 25. Chloé, Fairchild Baldwin and D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 Reception/Administrative. Key sales opportunity available for a We look forward to seeing you there! confident, proven seller of Williams and Tiffany & Co. were among contemporary sportswear & dresses. It Perrotin have been the labels that donated is an absolute MUST that this candidate have strong & immediate collaborating since designs this year. specialty store relationships, as well as 2007, when they Over a first course some international and/or few major accounts. Must be able to open 80 to met in Miami of grilled asparagus, 100 specialty stores on a national & and the French Nicole Miller checked on international level, as well as online retailers within the first year of hire. art dealer asked her own donated bags Social media skills req’d. Comp. package open. Williams to create on her iPhone-esque Resume to Mr. Schwartz design and art bidding device, which were [email protected] or fax to 213-895-4402. objects, including distributed upon check-in. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS unusual chairs. “It has crystals all over it,” she Full service shop to the trade. Joyce Echols LLC is a Unique, High — MILES SOCHA explained as her seatmate Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 End Women’s Shoe Company looking for a Shoe Sales Representative to A Takashi Murakami piece peered over the pixilated launch Spring/ Summer 2015. COPPOLA’S CHOICE: pic. Designers Elaine Turner, Candidate must be resourceful & able featuring Pharrell Williams to leverage industry knowledge with It looks like there Laura Vela and Yiliana Yepez were buyers on the East & West coast. Will from the “Girl” exhibit. be in NYC May 5-9th to hold will be at least one honored, with news anchor interviews. Please send your resume serious fashion plate Chuck Scarborough serving as to: [email protected] on the jury at next month’s Cannes Film master of ceremonies. The event closed Paolo Costagli is hiring a Traveling Festival. Word has it Sofia Coppola, whose with a moving speech from a former Sales Professional 5-10 yrs. sales exp. with fine jewelry is required. Send film “The Bling Ring” made its debut at member of the Boys & Girls Club’s Navy resume to: [email protected] the Riviera gathering last year, will be Yard clubhouse in Brooklyn. Visit us at Couture - Booth #408 heading south to serve on a jury presided “This lunch is so inspirational,” by “The Piano” director Jane Campion. said Muffie Potter Aston, applauding The festival will unveil the complete emphatically. “It makes you so (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] slate of jurors in the coming days. grateful to be here and to just help out

Coppola has appeared in ad in any way.” — LAUREN MCCARTHY GALERIE PERROTIN WILLIAMS PHOTO COURTESY BORN FREE - WWD - APRIL 24 - BACK COVER OF JOURNAL (C4) BORN FREE - WWD - APRIL 24 - INSIDE BACK COVER OF WRAP

PHOTOGRAPHY: PATRICK DEMARCHELIER CREATIVE DIRECTION: LAIRD + PARTNERS

FASHION’S LEADING WOMEN UNITE TO END MOTHER-TO-CHILD HIV TRANSMISSION LEARN MORE AT BORNFREEAFRICA.ORG

REL72_BF_2014_WWD COVERWRAP-v2_105773_REL72_v6.indd 3-4 4/17/14 5:47 PM BORN FREE - WWD - APRIL 24 - BACK COVER OF JOURNAL (C4) BORN FREE - WWD - APRIL 24 - INSIDE BACK COVER OF WRAP

PHOTOGRAPHY: PATRICK DEMARCHELIER CREATIVE DIRECTION: LAIRD + PARTNERS

FASHION’S LEADING WOMEN UNITE TO END MOTHER-TO-CHILD HIV TRANSMISSION LEARN MORE AT BORNFREEAFRICA.ORG

REL72_BF_2014_WWD COVERWRAP-v2_105773_REL72_v6.indd 3-4 4/17/14 5:47 PM BORN FREE - WWD - APRIL 24 - BACK COVER OF WRAP

URBAN ZEN

SHOP THE LIMITED EDITION COLLECTION FOR MOTHERS AND KIDS EXCLUSIVELY AT SHOPBOP.COM

REL72_BF_2014_WWD COVERWRAP-v2_105773_REL72_v6.indd 5 4/17/14 5:47 PM MAN OF THE WEEK PLUS Fields’ Day Patagonia is putting its The heir apparent for the chief focus behind some popular executive officer seat at Ford Motor Co., Mark Fields, has power initiatives: omnichannel dressing down. Page MW6 and fair trade. Page MW7

April 24, 2014

FURNISHINGS FOCUS Fashion Fever Back to Boosts Sales Of Underwear Basics Retail volume increased 4 percent through February. Classic cuts in updated blended fabrics and better- by KARYN MONGET MEN APPARENTLY know what they want fitting silhouettes characterize — in underwear, that is. today’s underwear market. After decades of relying on women to buy their tighty whities, a growing number Large conglomerates as well as of men are taking responsibility for select- ing and buying underwear at traditional niche brands coexist to create brick-and-mortar stores as well as online. The demand for fashion, which now plays a well-segmented offering a leading role in the $3.9 billion men’s busi- ness, has grown dramatically over the past with a variety of price points, year, and both basic and fashion brands are quality and performance responding to the call with a wider range of styles, prints and specialty treatments, as features. For more on the well as an expanded palette of colors. Innovative fabrics continue to rock the underwear market, see business in performance blends of cotton with Lycra spandex and a new generation pages MW2 to MW5. of ultrasoft microfibers that offer wicking and antimicrobial benefits. There’s also a focus on proprietary applications that regu- late body temperature, allowing the wearer to stay warm or cool while exercising or throughout a business day. And for purists, there is growing popularity in luxurious un- derwear of 100 percent merino wool. Retail sales of men’s underwear — led by the boxer brief and trunk silhouettes — spiked 4 percent in the 12 months ending in February 2014, according to The NPD Group Inc./ Consumer Tracking Service. The boxer brief posted the largest growth at 17 percent, said Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at NPD. “The [men’s underwear] silhouettes are not new, but fashion and innovation contin- ue to drive the market,” said Cohen. “Even conservative guys have upgraded their un- derwear selections with fashion looks. The men who didn’t care about fashion in the past now care. It used to be that 75 percent of all men’s underwear was purchased by women. It’s not close to that at all. Women now buy 36 percent.” Industry executives say they expect the

BADIA ALEX combination of fashion, function and perfor- mance to continue to fuel business into 2015. Bob Mazzoli, chief creative officer of Calvin Klein Underwear, a subsidiary of PVH Corp., said product that is “relevant” BY CLICK; STYLED will continue to be the brand’s hallmark for fall and holiday. “We want to continue to offer relevant product that speaks to a balance of every- day, aspirational utility and luxury, and, when appropriate, specific functionality,” said Mazzoli. “For fall 2014, we are really in- vested in the basic essentials.…We have two big concepts for fall: Calvin Klein Power Red, which has a full offering across multi- ple classifications that allows us to pollinate Levi’s Basics’ cotton AT LASKY JAMES MODEL: VAUGHAN; GREG the iconic cultural relationship between and spandex trunks. our brand name and the waistband in men’s

BY PHOTO {Continued on page MW2} MW2 WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 24, 2014 Men’s Week More Men Are Buying Their Own Undies {Continued from page MW1} “We are finding that microfiber and 2(x)ist underwear, and Calvin Klein THRML, MicroModal fabrics are becoming much which uses a technical yarn with heat-reten- more popular, just as they are in the wom- tion properties in layering pieces, such as en’s collections,” said Snodgrass. “Trendy, T-shirts and long johns, to keep him warm in modern designs that attract a younger- cold weather.” minded customer are what is currently driv- Regarding key items, Mazzoli singled ing Hanro’s [men’s] business. The most re- out the Calvin Klein Dual Tone line, which cent collection, called Fancy Woven, offers launched this spring. woven boxers in stylish plaids and checks “We introduced a new silhouette called for $49. Also, a lightweight MicroModal fab- the square cut, which is gaining traction rication called Urban Touch is designed worldwide. We will continue to invest in this with a modern, trendy customer in mind. design style, in addition to the men’s trunk, Hanro customers respond well to the sea- brief and boxer brief,” he said. sonal fashion colors, as well as basic black Mitchell Lechner, president of the Dress and white in this group.” Furnishings Group at PVH, said, “The men’s Hanro’s newest initiatives are linked fashion underwear business has grown sub- to current men’s fashion trends, explained stantially in the overall market. Snodgrass. “This spring, a loungewear and “In the last few years, men have become beachwear collection called Nuno offers a more forthcoming in expressing their life- great long-sleeve tunic shirt with matching style and aesthetic by choosing the right fit lounge pants in a neutral chalk color story and colors of their clothes as well as in how that’s great for indoor or outdoor lounge- they accessorize,” said Lechner. “From a wear.…And we are finding even when a functional viewpoint, the purpose for why Hanro customer may be older, he likes men buy underwear has become fragment- to live like a younger-minded consumer. ed. Men now have a choice of wearing cer- Logoed waistbands are a popular trend for tain types of underwear for work, the gym younger consumers, so it makes sense that or whatever the activity. Underwear choices Hanro now offers logoed waistbands in many also need to be appropriate for an outfit or an of our newer collections,” said Snodgrass. occasion. The act of underwear buying repre- Athletic and performance underwear

place,” said Barth. “We infused innovation in everything from the stretch-cotton rib in OUR STANDARD FOR the 300 Series that won’t lose its shape to our COLOR IS THAT YOU NEED premium 100 percent merino wool group “ that naturally keeps you cool and dry.” TO BE COMFORTABLE Wearable technology is what’s driving business at Mackweldon.com, according to TAKING OFF YOUR PANTS Brian Berger, founder and chief executive officer of Mack Weldon underwear. IN THE LOCKER ROOM.” “Performance is core to our Levi’s brand. Whether it’s our stan- — BRIAN BERGER, MACK WELDON dard 18-hour jersey materi- al, which is a custom blend Performance fabrics are a top classifi- are also key at Jockey of cotton, Lenzing Modal cation at Miami-based Isaco International, International Inc., said and Lycra, or our latest maker of papi and the licensed Perry Ellis Dustin Cohn, chief mar- innovation, Mack Weldon underwear for men, said president and keting officer. Silver, that blends pima chief operating officer Alan Zelcer. He sin- “We have done a lot cotton and X-STATIC XT2 gled out Modern Stretch and Microfusion of marketing this past Silver Technology, we are Performance by papi as best-selling groups year and focused on committed to pushing of lightweight polyester and spandex that our sports underwear innovation in men’s ba- have “quick-dry and moisture-wicking fea- program,” said Cohn. sics,” he said. “Beyond tures. For fall, papi will be coming out with a “Technology and innova- that, color drives a sig- program of performance fabrics for Hispanic tion are helping to drive nificant portion of our Heritage Month. It will be a color-block pro- Jockey our business. Our Stay business. We focus on gram with flag motifs of Latin American Cool program, which wearable color — no countries on the waistband, he said. “We sents a place, a purpose and a perspective.” regulates skin tempera- neon — that compares also feel there is an opportunity in fashion Lechner said athletic- and performance- ture with phase-change to what you’d wear in a T-shirt with the Perry Ellis label, not crazy stuff, but inspired underwear has created a new cat- technology that reacts to body temperature, like indigo, seasonal shades of blues, greens, fashion that could be converted into a basic egory and fueled incremental growth. keeps a wearer warm or cool.” accents of classic shades of red and purple. with color and performance fabrics.” “Athletic-inspired fabrics incorporating Alex Guerrero, Jockey’s vice president Our standard for color is that you need to Jason Scarlatti, creative director for 2(x) quick-dry and wicking properties have been of men’s merchandising, said the heritage be comfortable taking off your pants in the ist, said the trendy brand will combine fashion gaining momentum across the board. We are brand will be launching two new perfor- locker room. and basics with performance fabrics for fall. launching a cotton stretch program as well mance groups: Jockey Active Blend, a cotton- “We’ve also introduced a modern inter- “This will be a first for 2(x)ist, which is as an athletic program with mesh panels based group that “stays dry all day for the pretation of the classic woven boxer. Here, we known as a sexy, fashion brand. The boxer and athletic waistbands in Tommy Hilfiger. man on the go,” and Jockey Air, a group com- developed a stretch woven fabric that enables brief will be a big focus for us as a silhou- In Izod, we are launching Izod Energy, a per- prised of superlight polyester microfiber and us to cut a more tailored fit while preserving ette, and we’ll be introducing a black tie-in- formance-blend, stretch program with mois- CoolMax that has cooling properties for the the freedom that guys like,” added Berger. spired group of Modal with spandex called ture-management tech- man who enjoys activi- The Affair. I was very inspired by the tuxedo nology and sport styling ties like golf or hiking. on the men’s fashion runway.…The under- details. In Michael Kors, Jockey Air will launch wear will have satin tux stripes down the we are offering a touch in spring 2015. side and the waistband will look like a cum- of luxury with nylon Meanwhile, Levi’s merbund,” said Scarlatti. stretch performance is looking to broaden Despite the rush to performance fabrics, fabric,” said Lechner. the market share the loyal cotton customer is the target of Addressing cross- of its 139-year-old Bread & Boxers, a line of basic underwear at over trends, Lechner jeanswear brand United Legwear Co. The top two styles are a said, “There is defi- with the launch of classic boxer brief of 94 percent cotton and 6 nitely a cross-polli- Levi’s men’s un- percent spandex, and a relaxed-fit crew-neck nation happening derwear for fall. T-shirt of 100 percent cotton, said Isaac Ash, between sportswear Mack Grant Barth, president and ceo. and loungewear, re- Weldon the company’s “The Bread & Boxers business will always sulting in a trend chief merchan- be driven by classic styling and perfect fit, referred to as ‘ath- dising officer, rather than new and trendy styling. The piec- leisure.’ This is described the es are everyday basics — T-shirts, boxer briefs contributing largely to the underwear as “more and briefs in white, black, gray,” stated Ash. growth of the loungewear business than basics — this is underwear While minimalistic, everyday under- as it has become more acceptable to wear reengineered with details inspired by our wear may be the brand’s bread-and-butter loungewear pieces outside of the home. expertise in jeanswear.” business, Ash said a line of loungewear is Sweatpants, hoodies and Henleys that typi- Barth singled out the 200 Series as a top planned for fall. “The demand is there, and cally borrow from sportswear silhouettes, al- group. “They keep you comfortable all day our customers view the Bread & Boxers beit in lighter fabrics, are acceptable for the and they were built to be worn under jeans. aesthetic and ideology as understated, at- couch, as well as the weekend grocery run.” Even the batwing logo is functional and the tainable luxury. They’d like to expand that Jan Snodgrass, president of Hanro USA, sees silicone treatment adheres to your button- from their underwear into their everyday a growing demand for fashion merchandise. fly and holds your underwear waistband in wear,” said Ash.

MW4 WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 24, 2014 Men’s Week Subhead N GH A C Y B AU V G

L PHOTOS GR E

XXXX XXXX XXXXX XXXXX XXXXX XXXX XXXX XXX XXXXX XXX X A XXX XXXX XXX XXX XX” — XXXXX XXXXXX S Headline Goes S Dek goes here for this dek goes here for this dek goes here for this. I C

D

M 2(x)ist’s cotton A trunks. ALEX BADIA — Y

Bread & M Boxers’ cotton S and spandex briefs. looks. white and heather gray Updated fabric blends and more formfitting are freshening up traditional black, silhouettes

w24b004(5)a;15.indd 4 4/23/14 7:50 PM 04232014195221 Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 24, 2014 MW5 CAMPUZANO LUIS M Calvin Klein’s cotton M briefs. Boss’ polyamide and elastane briefs. ASSISTANT: AHAN USING TOM FORD FOR MEN; FASHION M C M SCOTT GROOMING BY MANAGEMENT; ARTIST SOUL AT

FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE WWD.com/ menswear-news. CLICK AND LEO ELLER AT LASKY MODELS: JAMES

w24b004(5)a;15.indd 5 4/23/14 7:50 PM 04232014195223 MW6 WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 24, 2014 Men’s Week Z Zegna to Show at Pitti Uomo

by ALESSANDRA TURRA the Florentine Center of Italian Fashion will celebrate its 60th anniversary with MILAN — Z Zegna will be the guest brand the Firenze Hometown of Fashion pro- at the next edition of Pitti Uomo, the inter- gram. The latter includes a number of national men’s wear trade show sched- events in Florence, hosted by Tuscan uled for June 17 to 20 in Florence. companies such as Gucci, Emilio The Zegna Group’s younger and Pucci, Roberto Cavalli and Ermanno more experimental line, designed Scervino. by Paul Surridge, will host an event “[Having Z Zegna show] con- at the fair on June 19 in a location firms that Italy’s men’s fashion that has yet to be determined. system is on the right track to “We are very happy that such collaborate in order to enhance an important protagonist of inter- its greatest points of strength national men’s fashion as Zegna and face the new challenges will preview its Z Zegna collec- of international competition,” tion at Pitti,” said Pitti Immagine A look from Marzotto added. president Gaetano Marzotto. “Z Z Zegna. Previously a number of NAME: Oakley x Eric Koston LX the years, working with Oakley, Zegna is a young and innovative international fashion labels, HISTORY: Before wayfarers Frogskins have been my canvas. It line, which reworks formalwear including Band of Outsiders, made their resurgence, the Oakley can take different patterns, prints combining it with sporty themes Jil Sander, Carven, Valentino, Frogskins were the and colors. It’s just and materials — being inspired Kenzo, Kolor and Diesel Black summer staple in In the fun to work with,” by urban lifestyle, it’s in line Gold, showcased their collec- the early Nineties. said Koston. The col- with the research embraced by tions in Florence during the Now pro skate leg- SPOTLIGHT laboration is set to our trade show.” trade show. end Eric Koston has be released this fall. Marzotto noted that the pres- According to a Zegna spokes- teamed with the NICHE: Progressive ence in Florence of the Zegna woman, in light of the presence

sports and lifestyle brand to re- surf and skate athletes and the like- Group, a pillar of Milan Fashion at Pitti Uomo, the company will GIANNONI GIOVANNI vamp the classic eyewear with five minded. Week, would dovetail with other not present a runway show in new Frogskins styles handmade in KEY ITEMS: Sunglasses events during Pitti in June. To wit: Milan for Z Zegna this season. PHOTO BY acetate with camouflage print. “I PRICE POINTS: $160 to $210 always like working with Frogskins COMPETITION: Oliver Peoples, because it’s so timeless and over Persol, Ray-Ban and Maui Jim Wal-Mart CEO Gets $25.6M by EVAN CLARK incentive pay of $1 million in addition to other Pepsi to Offer Collection compensation. DOUG MCMILLON got a nice bump up in pay Duke, the outgoing ceo, received no stock as he moved into the corner office at Wal-Mart awards during his final year of service and saw Of Apparel, Accessories Stores Inc. his compensation fall 73 percent to $5.6 million. McMillon, who took the reins as chief execu- Also among the high earners at the company tive officer from Mike Duke at the end of the fis- were Bill Simon, executive vice president and by DAVID YI keting officer at PepsiCo Global cal year on Jan. 31, saw his total compensation ceo of Wal-Mart’s U.S. discount division, who saw Beverages Group. increase 167 percent to $25.6 million last year, his compensation rise 16.3 percent to $13 million, PEPSI IS bubbling over into fashion. The Live for Now capsule will when he served as executive vice president. and Neil Ashe, executive vice president and ceo On May 21, the beverage brand feature 60 pieces, including men’s Most of that came in the form of stock awards of Global eCommerce, who saw a gain of 57.8 per- will collaborate on a capsule col- T-shirts, zip-up jackets, swim trunks, valued at $23 million and, according to Wal- cent to $13.2 million. lection with fashion and technology headphones, baseball caps, sweat- Mart’s practice, were given in consideration of Wal-Mart also said that board members Lee brands including Bang & Olufsen, shirts, leather sneakers, slippers and the upcoming year, according to a regulatory fil- Scott, a former ceo at the retailer, and Chris Original Penguin by Munsingwear, skateboards. ing Wednesday. McMillon might not realize all Williams, would not stand for re-election at the Shut, Gents, Goodlife and Del Toro. The entire process, Patrick said, that value given stock price fluctuations. company’s June 6 annual meeting. That will cut The line will be sold exclusively at was a learning experience for Pepsi, He also received a salary of $954,408 and the firm’s board to 14 directors. 15 select Bloomingdale’s doors, in- one where the company learned to cluding the retailer’s flagship on “let go.” 59th Street in Manhattan, as well as “It was really interesting and was Man of Colette in Paris in June, and select a study for a company like us in let- MARK FIELDS: A- e-commerce sites. ting go of the brand,” she said. THE WEEK “We have this long history in pop The only parameter Pepsi had for culture and have been longtime the designers was that all the items stewards of creativity from music to had to display Pepsi’s red, white and film and we’ve dibbled and dabbled blue color palette. In his early years, he sported a tragic The subtle with fashion over the years,” said Live for Now was a by-product of mullet but, thankfully, those days expression lines Kristin Patrick, global chief mar- a soccer initiative called “The Art of are behind him, and now he has the give him character Football,” where Pepsi ultimate newscaster ’do. and sex appeal. teamed six professional international soccer play- The well-structured ers with artists from their shoulder serves as the The form-fitting respective countries to starting point for the silhouette create original pieces of exquisitely cut silhouette reinforces the art. Artists included Hattie of the shadow check suit. V-shape of the look Stewart, Jaz, Ricardo Akn, and keeps him Zosen and Ever. within sartorial The red and white repp striped tie is “The minute we saw elegance. better than an in-your-face solid but still the artwork and were un- enhances his powerful position, while

believably inspired, we ▼ also providing a peek at his youthful side. wanted to do something With the thighs of Del Toro shoes. bigger,” Patrick said. an athlete, the cut “We were thinking, ‘How The sleeves are too long, of the pant allows can we connect with art even when he’s bending for an elegant drape and fashion and connect his arms. while maintaining with our consumers?’ We an elongated and thought that a fashion narrow cut. line was in line with our brand’s DNA, rooted in The heir apparent for the music and film as well.” Patrick said this cap- chief executive officer The playful loafer sule collection was “more is not the most than just a test” and Pepsi seat at Ford Motor Co. is sophisticated is serious about its sarto- definitely dressing for choice, but maybe rial future. once he scores “Our brand has a the job he wants to have the ceo job, he can long-standing history in invest in a pair of fashion and we plan on a with his perfectly tailored John Lobb’s. SZENES/EPA/CORBIS broad-ranging initiative, including many more power suit. JASON BY

▼ collaborations in the Gents hat. near future,” she said. PHOTO Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 24, 2014 MW7 Patagonia Making Omnichannel Push

by KHANH T.L. TRAN New products like the Chouinard, and five outlet units. Patagonia is also on a mis- fair trade collection drive Supplementing its direct retail sion to build other businesses LOS ANGELES — Under growth. As a founding business, which contributes the through its venture capital fund, new leadership, Patagonia member of the nonprofit majority of sales, are specialty $20 Million & Change. Started last Inc. is adopting omnichan- Fair Labor Association, wholesale accounts such as fly fish- year with the amount noted in its nel into its business strat- Patagonia was bound to ing and ski shops, some of which name, the fund has been described egy this year along with be one of the first national have carried Patagonia’s products by Yvon Chouinard to “help like- two other buzzwords gar- apparel retailers to intro- for more than three decades. minded, responsible start-up com- nering attention in the ap- duce fair trade clothing, Patagonia is considering new panies bring about positive benefit parel industry: fair trade paying a premium to fac- retail concepts to support na- to the environment.” Marcario said and venture capital. tory workers for every fair scent businesses. Two years ago, the average investment will be be- A pioneer in un- trade certified product it its food division, called Patagonia tween $500,000 and $2 million, and conventional business sells. Following a previ- that Patagonia would likely receive practices, the outdoor ously launched women’s an equity stake in exchange for the apparel and equipment yoga line, which retails investment. While Patagonia is specialist is launching a for between $45 and $79, considering a broad spectrum of fair trade clothing line Smoked salmon from Patagonia Provisions, launched in 2012. the brand is offering industries for the fund, including for women as well as a six women’s sportswear energy, water, waste, food and the new venture capital fund to help model basically,” she said. “That’s styles, including heathered fleece apparel supply chain, she said it environmentally minded startups. a big initiative for the company.” zip-up jackets and striped hoodie is now finalizing the deals that it “It’s important that we don’t Marcario is prepared for the dresses, as part of its fair trade plans to reveal in a few months. think of business as separate from challenge. Since joining Patagonia program for fall. Retailing from “Right now we’re focusing on life, separate from the environ- in 2008 as its operations and fi- $45 to $89, the sportswear will be American companies,” she said, ment, separate from our home,” nance chief, she has led the sold in Patagonia’s stores and on adding that the fund can be wid- said Rose Marcario, who was Ventura, Calif.-based company to its Web site. Next spring, the fair ened in the future to target in- named Patagonia’s president and doubling its scale of operations trade grouping will expand to ternational start-ups. chief executive officer earlier this and tripling its profits. Last year, more than 30 styles, including Another area of investment year. “Patagonia is going to contin- she became ceo of Patagonia men’s options. for Patagonia is its own research ue to take a creative and provoca- Works, the brand’s parent company Patagonia currently oper- and development department, tive approach to business. I do that employs 1,900 people world- ates 24 full-priced stores in the the Forge, named after the spot think business can be a positive wide. In February, she added the U.S. and the same number in where Chouinard first made the agent for change.” title of Patagonia’s president and Europe, Australia and Japan. mountain-climbing tools that Like many apparel executives, ceo, succeeding Casey Sheahan. As part of its plan to boost gave birth to Patagonia in 1973. Marcario is strategizing ways to Patagonia has exhibited strong global growth over the next few Now home to a half-dozen prod- grow Patagonia’s omnichannel growth over the last few years. years, it unveiled its first flagship uct-design engineers and material strategy. The first step is to break Sales increased 25 percent in fis- in Seoul in a joint venture last Patagonia’s Encapsil down parka. developers, the Forge has produced down barriers as it relates to cus- cal 2011 from the year before, then November. Rather than targeting a parka filled with its proprietary tomer service. For instance, if a another 35 percent to $550 mil- the noteworthy BRIC countries — Provisions, introduced sustainably water-resistant Encapsil down, a customer in a store wants an item lion in fiscal 2012. Last year, sales Brazil, Russia, India and China harvested and smoked wild sockeye self-inflation vest for big-wave surf- that is available only online, the reached around $600 million. As — Marcario said she wants to fully salmon. Marcario is contemplating ers and other items. company wants to be able to mail for this year, Marcario declined to develop Patagonia’s existing mar- future openings of stores carrying “We’ve always been a product- that product and complete the disclose specific goals but noted: kets. In the U.S., the company also Patagonia Provisions. “It’s not on driven company,” said Marcario. sale in a single transaction. “We’re having a really healthy has one store selling surfboards my immediate list this year,” she “Making the highest quality for “We’re investing a lot in our year this year. It’s continuing that designed by Fletcher Chouinard, said. “As our business grows, so will our core customers is our number- direct channel, our omnichannel trajectory we’re on.” the son of Patagonia founder Yvon our direct-retail presence grow.” one job.” Fighting Sexual Violence, One Leg at a Time

THE FIGHT against sexual vio- Beck and husband-and-wife musi- felt that, because the victim was lence moved forward in a sea of cians Aloe Blacc and Maya Jupiter wearing tight jeans, she must have indigo on two coasts Wednesday. joined the company’s staff — in- helped her rapist remove her jeans From New York to Los Angeles, cluding chief executive officer and thereby given consent. and thousands of points in be- Paul Marciano, chairman Maurice If Paul Marciano has his way, tween, wearing jeans took on Marciano and chief design offi- Denim Day also will be observed meaning beyond casual comfort as cer Sharleen Ernster Lazear — to in Europe next year. supporters were asked to “make raise awareness about sexual as- “It belongs in Italy,” he told the a social statement with your fash- sault. While Garcetti and Beck standing-room-only crowd at Guess ion statement” and wear jeans as sported J Brand and Wrangler, headquarters. “We hope Mayor a show of solidarity with the sur- respectively, the Marcianos and Garcetti and Chief Beck will be vivors of sexual assault and help many of their guests — and cer- with us in Florence.” deliver the message that any form tainly the majority of their employ- Added Maurice Marciano: “The of unwanted physical contact is not ees — donned jeans from Guess. more noise we’re going to make just unfashionable but criminal. They weren’t alone. In its larg- about it, hopefully the better we’ll William Bratton with In New York, Police Commissioner est philanthropic marketing effort be able to protect the women, the men and women in blue. William Bratton was joined by a in 33 years, Guess involved cus- kids, the victims of rape.” After thanking the L.A. Police Chief Charlie Beck in Wrangler Marciano brothers in their Violence and founder of Denim Many in attendance were sur- and L.A. Mayor Eric Garcetti in J Brand. native French, Garcetti Day, afterward, “It’s really about prised to learn that, with reductions saluted how they personi- love over violence.” in crime in New York City in recent fied Los Angeles as a cre- At a smaller gathering on years, rape is the one indexed ative capital, a concept the steps of City Hall in New crime that has in fact increased in he’s promoting in his first York, Bratton told the lunchtime frequency, despite its status as the year in office. “We take crowd, “I’m very proud of NYPD most unreported offense on the that creativity and we do blue and today I’m proud to be books. A survey by the Centers for something with it. It has wearing denim blue,” promising Disease Control and Prevention a purpose and a passion,” “vigorous investigation and pros- found that one in two women and he said. “Here in L.A., ecution” of the laws forbidding one in five men have experienced what we’ve been able to sexual and domestic violence. some form of sexual victimization, Kirsten DeFur of New York export through Denim Day He promised departmental sup- and that one in four women and Mayor Bill de Blasio’s office. has been nothing short of port to combat the notion that one in six men experience sexual a worldwide movement.” “because [women] wear a certain abuse before the age of 18.

A To underscore the type of clothing, they’re entitled With dozens of public officials R T I large contingent of the city’s police tomers in more than 400 stores in consortium of creativity under to be raped.” and members of partner organi- M

T

R force, which had traded in the blue the U.S. and also in Canada, where one roof, musicians Aloe Blacc Keeping these principles in zations on hand, Quentin Walcott, E B

O of their uniforms for a lighter shade nonprofit organization Peace Over and Maya Jupiter jammed on mind and sharing them with co-executive director of Connect, R

D and more casual look. Violence had never sponsored stage, performing Blacc’s hit song young men and women needs to elicited cheers when he said, N A

S On the opposite coast, Guess Denim Day before. “Wake Me Up” with Avicii and become an everyday pursuit, said “It isn’t the clothes women and E V

A Inc. welcomed several new jeans Some 66,719 people pledged two other numbers, including one Rosemonde Pierre-Louis, commis- girls choose to wear that needs to R G models as it marked the 16th to wear jeans on Wednesday to that featured a secret recording of sioner of the new Mayor’s Office change, but rather the belief sys- Y M

A annual Denim Day at its down- show support for the annual event, Jupiter’s grandfather revealing the to Combat Domestic Violence. tem of those who objectify them

Y B town Los Angeles headquarters which originated in 1999 after an secret to true love. “Every day should be Denim Day, and commit the acts of sexual vio- S O

T on Wednesday. L.A. Mayor Eric Italian court overturned a rape After all, said Patti Giggans, not just because it’s comfortable lence that needs to change.” O

H — ARNOLD J. KARR AND K.T.L.T. P Garcetti, Police Chief Charlie conviction because the judges executive director of Peace Over to wear to work.” FOR MORE INFORMATION: ANDREW TEDALDI [email protected] 212 710-6440 // EXT.15620