Kalamata Express

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Kalamata Express Explore City walk Aristomenous Street Οδός Αριστομένους Kalamata express Six musts in Messinia’s inviting and vibrant capital, a city once hailed as the “Marseilles of the Peloponnese” Έξι λόγοι για τους οποίους πρέπει να επισκεφτείτε την ελκυστική, ολοζώντανη πρωτεύουσα της Μεσσηνίας - την πόλη που κάποτε● αποκαλούσαν «Μασσαλία του Μοριά» BY NATASHA BLATSIOU τησ νατασσασ μπλατσιου SCAN PHoto to DISCOVER CNKALAMATA © STELIOS SPYROPOULOS, SOFIA KOTSILIERI SOFIA SPYROPOULOS, STELIOS © Gulf of Messinia / Μεσσηνιακός κόλπος 76 77 Explore City walk The Castle “The princess (…) sat upon the chest, in front of the window, gazing out at the sea, beyond, absent-mindedly inhaling the basil’s breath. The city, below, had already started shrinking 02 03 in her twilight reveries. The bells of evensong had fallen silent some time ago (from Angelos Terzakis’s novel “The Princess Isabeau,” 1945). Visiting Kalamata Castle at dusk, the scents, sounds and Το Κάστρο τουρκικά παζάρια». Εκτός από φρέσκα λαχανικά και φρούτα, scenes seem unchanged even though it was the 1300s when «η πριγκιπέσσα (…) καθισμένη στην κασέλα, μπροστά στο γύρω από την αγορά θα βρείτε υπαίθριους πάγκους και μαγαζάκια Princess Isabella, daughter of William II Villehardouin, παραθύρι, αγνάντευε τη θάλασσα, πέρα, κι οσμιζότανε με τοπικά προϊόντα - μεταξύ άλλων βότανα, παστό, τυρί σφέλα gazed out onto the Gulf of Messinia from these very same αφαιρεμένα την ανάσα του βασιλικού. η πολιτεία, κάτω, ζάρωνε και λαλάγγια. battlements. This was the site of the acropolis ofH omer’s κιόλας στη βραδινή της περισυλλογή. τα σήμαντρα του εσπερινού ancient city of Pharai. The castle survived the tumults of είχαν από ώρα σωπάσει» (από το μυθιστόρημα «πριγκιπέσσα Οδός Αριστομένους history as well as a devastating earthquake in 1986 that razed ιζαμπώ» του Άγγελου τερζάκη). Ένας υπέροχος αστικός περίπατος, μια περιήγηση στην ιστορία 10,000 homes in the city. The 13th century citadel is still awe- αν βρεθείτε δειλινό στο Κάστρο της Καλαμάτας, θα σας φανεί της πόλης από τον μεσαίωνα έως σήμερα, η διαδρομή που θα σας inspiring today thanks to its arched entrance, graced by the πως αρώματα, ήχοι και εικόνες έχουν παραμείνει άφθαρτα, και φέρει από το Κάστρο μέσω της οδού αριστομένους μέχρι το λιμάνι lions of St Mark of Venice. ας ήταν μεσαίωνας τότε που η πριγκίπισσα ιζαμπώ, κόρη του της Καλαμάτας είναι ο καλύτερος τρόπος να γνωρίσετε Γουλιέλμου Βιλλεαρδουίνου, αγνάντευε τον μεσσηνιακό κόλπο την πρωτεύουσα της μεσσηνίας. The market από τις ίδιες επάλξεις. Εδώ τοποθετείται η ακρόπολη της αρχαίας Ήταν η πρώτη «λεωφόρος» της πόλης, που κατασκευάστηκε The city’s main market is not housed in a historical building πόλης των Φαρών. το Κάστρο του 13ου αιώνα επέζησε της βίαιης το 1871 για να ενώσει το ιστορικό κέντρο με τη θάλασσα. υπήρξε nor is it an elegant open-air agora. But it is a colorful and περιδίνησής του στην ιστορία, αλλά και του καταστροφικού κατεξοχήν εμπορικός δρόμος και ξενοδοχειακή πιάτσα, και 01 bustling emporium of the finest and freshest produce σεισμού του 1986, που ισοπέδωσε 10.000 σπίτια στην πόλη. σήμερα συγκεντρώνει τα περισσότερα νεοκλασικά κτίρια of Messinia, best described by Sir Thomas Wyse, British σήμερα, συνεχίζει να εντυπωσιάζει χάρη στη θολωτή είσοδο με το της πόλης. ορισμένα, όμορφα ανακαινισμένα, στεγάζουν ambassador to Greece in the mid-19th century: “We returned υπηρεσίες του δήμου και εμπορικά καταστήματα, άλλα στέκουν 07 λιοντάρι του αγίου μάρκου της Βενετίας. (…) to the bazaar and the kaphenion. Both were full at that παραμελημένα, περιμένοντας κάποιος να τους δώσει νέα ζωή. hour. The kaphenion for all Greeks, as in every mainland town, Η αγορά has replaced the Stoa and the (ancient) Agora… The bazaar Δεν στεγάζεται σε κάποιο ιστορικό κτίριο, ούτε έχει την όψη Εκκλησία της Υπαπαντής presented the customary untidy and provincial image, without μιας κομψής υπαίθριας αγοράς. αυτό που θα αντικρίσετε σε αυτήν εδώ τη γειτονιά δημιουργήθηκε ο πρώτος ιστός της any paint, that all Greek and Turkish bazaars stubbornly επισκεπτόμενοι το, κατά τα άλλα πολύχρωμο και ασυναγώνιστο πόλης, όταν οι κάτοικοι αποφάσισαν να αφήσουν πίσω τους τα persist with (…).” Other than fresh fruit and vegetable stands, σε ολόφρεσκα προϊόντα της μεσσηνιακής γης, εμπορικό κέντρο τείχη του Κάστρου. around the market you will find open-air stalls and shops περιέγραψε με γλαφυρότητα ο Sir Thomas Wyse, πρεσβευτής Κατεξοχήν χώρος κοινωνικής συναναστροφής, ο εντυπωσιακός selling local products from fresh herbs to cured meats, cheese της μεγάλης Βρετανίας στην Ελλάδα στα μέσα του 19ου αιώνα. μητροπολιτικός ναός της υπαπαντής, με τα διπλά κωδωνοστάσια and specialities like sfela and lalaggia. «Επιστρέψαμε στο παζάρι και στο καφενείο. Και τα δύο εκείνη και τους ευμεγέθεις τρούλους, αποτελεί το επίκεντρο εορτασμών την ώρα ήταν κατάμεστα. το καφενείο για όλους τους Έλληνες, στις χριστιανικές γιορτές, αλλά και εξωτερικά ένα χώρο Aristomenous Street όπως και σε κάθε ηπειρωτική πόλη, είναι το υποκατάστατο ατελείωτου παιχνιδιού για τα παιδιά τα ζεστά καλοκαιρινά A stroll along this thoroughfare is like taking a tour of the city’s της στοάς της (αρχαίας) αγοράς. το παζάρι παρουσίαζε τη απογεύματα. στο εσωτερικό του φυλάσσεται η εικόνα της history from the Middle Ages to the present day. The best way συνηθισμένη άτακτη και πρόχειρη, χωρίς κάποιο ασβέστωμα, παναγίας υπαπαντής, που λέγεται ότι βρέθηκε ως εκ θαύματος to get to know the Messinian capital is by starting your walk at επαρχιακή εικόνα που διατηρούν με πείσμα όλα τα ελληνικά και στην ίδια θέση με την εκκλησία. the castle and taking Aristomenous down to the port. The city’s first proper boulevard, it was constructed in 1871 to provide a link between the historical center and the coast. Once a busy commercial stretch lined with hotels, it is now a showcase of 06 05 04 ARAMI the majority of the city’s neoclassical mansions. Some of these CH beautifully renovated edifices are home to municipal services 01. Varvoutsi Arcade Στοά Βαρβουτσή and stores, while others languish in neglect, waiting for 02. Kalamata Castle someone to give them a new lease of life. Κάστρο Καλαμάτας 03. Kalamata Municipal Conservatory The Church of Ypapanti Δημοτικό Ωδείο Καλαμάτας The neighborhood around the church was the first urban 04. Churh of Ypapanti settlement to be developed when Kalamata’s residents began Εκκλησία Υπαπαντής spreading beyond the castle walls. A hub of social life, the 05. Renovated neoclassical mansion Metropolitan Church of Ypapanti, with its twin bell towers and Ανακαινισμένη νεοκλασική οικία OS, SOFIA KOTSILIERI, JULIA KLIMI, OLGA OLGA KLIMI, JULIA KOTSILIERI, SOFIA OS, 06. Knocker Ρόπτρο V imposing domes, is the epicenter of religious festivities and 07. Benaki pedestrian street its courtyard a vast playground for children during the warmer Πεζόδρομος Μπενάκη GELIS ZA GELIS N months. The icon of the Virgin ofY papanti, exhibited inside A V the church, is said to have miraculously appeared on the site © where the church was eventually built. 78 79 Explore City walk The abundance and traditions of the Messinian land are embodied in the gourmet ο πλούτος και οι παραδόσεις collection of Navarino Icons, της μεσσηνιακής γης pure products that have μετουσιώνονται στα αγνά ποιοτικά conquered even the most προϊόντα Navarino Icons, που κατακτούν τις πιο απαιτητικές demanding international διεθνείς αγορές και απογειώνουν τις markets and have allowed δημιουργίες καταξιωμένων σεφ. renowned chefs to elevate their την ίδια στιγμή, ο λαχανόκηπος, ο βοτανικός κήπος και τα βιολογικά dishes to a new level of αμπέλια της Costa Navarino, σε excellence. Costa Navarino’s συνδυασμό με τα φρέσκα προϊόντα vegetable and herb gardens, as από τοπικούς παραγωγούς, well as its organic vineyards, προσφέρουν στους επισκέπτες της μια πλούσια γκάμα από alongside fresh produce from signature πιάτα, κοκτέιλ και local farmers, offer guests κρασιά εξαιρετικής ποιότητας, 01. Port of Kalamata που την καθιερώνουν ως έναν Λιμάνι Καλαμάτας a cornucopia of signature 02. Archaeological Museum of Messinia ελκυστικό γαστρονομικό προορισμό 01 Αρχαιολογικό Μουσείο Μεσσηνίας dishes, cocktails and excellent vintages, making the region an attractive culinary Archaeological Museum of Messinia Αρχαιολογικό Μουσείο Μεσσηνίας At this recently renovated, modern museum, exhibits are στο πρόσφατα ανακαινισμένο μοντέρνο μουσείο της πόλης η destination organized in geographical units – Kalamata, Pylos, Messini έκθεση αναπτύσσεται σε γεωγραφικές ενότητες - Καλαμάτα, and Trifylia – and laid out according to the course of Pamisos, πύλος, μεσσήνη, τριφυλία. ακολουθώντας τη διαδρομή που είναι the river crossing the region. The displays recount the area’s σχεδιασμένη ώστε να θυμίζει τη ροή του ποταμού πάμισου που history from prehistoric times to the Byzantine era, with an διατρέχει τη μεσσηνία, θα ταξιδέψετε από τους προϊστορικούς impressive collection from statues to mosaics. χρόνους μέχρι τη βυζαντινή εποχή και θα απολαύσετε από Tel. (+30) 27210-83485, www.archmusmes.gr αγάλματα μέχρι μωσαϊκά. τηλ. 27210-83.485, www.archmusmes.gr The seafront Ships laden with select Messinian products once set sail Το παραλιακό μέτωπο from the Port of Kalamata to major trading posts like από εδώ ταξίδευαν τα βαπόρια φορτωμένα με τα εκλεκτά Constantinople, Smyrna, Trieste and Marseilles. In the early προϊόντα της μεσσηνιακής γης μέχρι την Κωνσταντινούπολη, 1900s, Kalamata was the fifth most-important port in Greece. τη σμύρνη, την τεργέστη, τη μασσαλία… στις αρχές του 1900 Today, it has become a key component of the country’s tourism
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