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Home , Blisworth Tunnel, Navigation authority, Oxford railway station, River Cherwell, Stoke Bruerne, Thames Path

Leaving one of the locks ake Britain’s longest wide-beam , its dreamiest, at Dudswell on the most intimate narrow beam waterway and the . T finest section of its premier river navigation, and what do you have? The Thames Ring, a 244- mile, 173- circuit around central southern and the South Midlands. As rings go it is, in the immortal words of Tina Turner, simply the best. All you need is three to six weeks at your disposal, a boat (or a very stout pair of walking boots!), plus of course your WW guide, and you’re in business…

All photos by Robin Smithett unless otherwise credited. WW Guide to the THAMES RING DISTANCE 244 MILES | LOCKS 173 | MAX DIMENSIONS 72FT X 6FT 10IN DURATION 3-6 WEEKS CRUISING TIME (According to taste: relaxed holiday or intense boating adventure) If you only do one major cruising ring in your life, make it this one. Keith Goss sets off on a voyage of discovery… Downloaded by Colin Garnham-Edge from waterwaysworld.com www.waterwaysworld.com | APRIL 2013 | 61 Brentford to Junction

Brentford to Braunston Junction 93 miles | 101 locks | 1-2 weeks

We start at Brentford, meeting point Denham Country Park introduces of the Grand Union Canal and the River a rural theme – and how welcome it Thames. Perceived by the uninitiated is after the lengthy passage through as part of ’s sprawl, Brentford suburban . A series of locks, (Middlesex) is very much a town in its many overlooked by ooded gravel pits, own right. Vestiges of its past remain brings you to Rickmansworth, a typical in some narrow byways off the Market Home Counties town exuding genteel Place, while its football team still struts afuence from every pore. Cassiobury its stuff at Grifn Park. The canalside Park, on the outskirts of Watford, is environment is pleasing to the eye, with a one of the loveliest parks in England, pair of Thames Locks and the duplicated and the Grand Union has the good Gauging Locks introducing the boater fortune to glide through its wooded coming off the river to the joys of the GU. slopes. It is, perhaps, what makes life Playing hopscotch with the M4 in Watford worth living; Elton John and A4, the canal heads north-west, and Watford FC notwithstanding. traversing a densely urban landscape. A succession of towns punctuates Bulls Bridge Junction (with the your steady progress through Arm) and Cowley Peachey Hertfordshire: Kings Langley, Apsley, Junction (turn left for Slough) come Hemel Hempstead and Berkhamsted. along in quick succession, offering The latter is by far the nicest and you’ll diversion opportunities for those with be beguiled into staying for a while, time at their disposal. Uxbridge has a however tight your cruising schedule. proud history, being a Parliamentarian There is a wealth of history to absorb, garrison town during the Civil War, and the town’s most famous citizens the command centre for the RAF during including Geoffrey Chaucer, Thomas the Battle of Britain. Today it has its Becket and, more recently, Graham own university (Brunel) and Piccadilly Greene. The locks are relentless, as Line terminus, opened in 1933. It’s a you make your way up to the Tring good place to drop anchor for a while Summit. Canal arms are like London with adequate public moorings being buses hereabouts: you don’t encounter Downloaded by Colin Garnham-Edge from waterwaysworld.comgenerally available (not overnight). one for ages and then two come along 62 | APRIL 2013 | www.waterwaysworld.com Thames Ring

LEFT: Cruising at Bugbroooke on the Grand Union Canal. ABOVE: Emerging from Tunnel. RIGHT: . Stoke Bruerne Perhaps the most famous canal village in the land, Stoke Bruerne sits amid scintillating countryside, perched atop a ight of seven immaculately maintained locks. It is often said that the canal serves as the main street, where the popular Boat Inn faces across the water to a row of red-brick and stone cottages, together with the renowned Canal Museum which is housed in an old corn mill. Day-trippers ock here in droves at weekends, but Stoke Bruerne holds its head up high and retains its dignity; visit during the week if you can to experience this magical showpiece village at its best. at once. Both the and (partly navigable) 1970s/early ‘80s, it is wide enough for Wendover arms are well worthy of exploration. to pass each other, and it is normally just possible to The Grand Union is a big chunky brute of a see one end from the other i.e. there is always light canal. Everything is, appropriately, on a grand at the end of the tunnel. If only life were like that... scale: locks, bridges, cuttings and embankments. The miles are ying by now, although it may not The views are grand too, especially around feel like it, for the locks keep on coming. Beyond Pitstone Wharf where the Dunstable Downs Gayton Junction, where the Arm loom up on the eastern horizon. Whatever gives access to the Nene, you are sandwiched your preconceptions of the GU, you’ll have between the M1 and to admit it is unexpectedly pretty at times. railway for the climb up Buckby Locks to No-one would accuse of Norton Junction. The Leicester Section looks being pretty. The canal only skirts its eastern inviting (and we’ll be back there in the June periphery and comparatively few boaters bother WW when we cover the Ring) to walk or catch a bus into its soulless centre – a but for now we stick to the GU’s Main Line. curious place, perhaps, for the edgling Canal & Gently rolling hills accompany you as you River Trust to set up shop. Crossing the county head west, before diving into Braunston Tunnel boundary from Bucks into Northants, you come (2,042 yards) and descending six locks to arrive at to one of the Grand Union’s brightest stars: Stoke Braunston. The village itself sits quiet and aloof on Bruerne. Sitting demurely at the top of a ight of a low ridge, while the canalside settlement hooches, seven locks, it is a picture postcard canal village with a hire base and busy marina generating lots and worthy of a prolonged stay (see above). of activity. It almost recalls the days of yesteryear, Another highlight follows hot on the heels of when this was the epicentre of commercial Stoke Bruerne – . At 3,065 yards, carrying, with such companies as Pickfords, Fellows, it is one of the longest tunnels on the network. Morton & Clayton, Samuel Barlow, Willow Wren ClosedDownloaded for repairs by for Colin several Garnham-Edge years in the late from waterwaysworld.comand Blue Line all having their headquarters here. www.waterwaysworld.com | APRIL 2013 | 63 Braunston Junction to

Braunston Junction to Oxford 53 miles | 37 locks | 1 week

The Grand Union and Oxford share The seven narrow-beam locks of the Napton the ‘track’ between Braunston and Napton. ight lift the canal up to the winding summit It’s a delectable length of canal, traversing a level. For 11 miles the waterway jinks and remote and silent landscape. The waterway weaves through the landscape like Lionel is rarely silent, however, this being the heart Messi tormenting the opposition defence. As of ‘marina land’ where a plethora of large the bucolic North crow ies, mooring basins has sprung up in recent years. the distance is a mere ve miles – but who’s Avoid weekends if you want a quiet life. in a hurry? This is canal boating at its best Napton Junction was known to working – relax, unwind and savour it to the full! boatmen as Wigrams Turn. Here the Oxford Claydon’s ve locks, plus three further Canal off to join the Thames, isolated chambers, bring you to , some 46 miles away. And what glorious the ‘Queen of the ’. All the miles they are, every last one of them. A ingredients are here for the perfect canal classic example of an 18th century contour village: an old toll ofce and manager’s house, canal, the Southern Oxford provides a former coal wharf, good visitor moorings stark contrast with the business-like Grand north of the lock and two convivial pubs. Union – and it never fails to enchant. There’s history too (a famous 1644 Civil War

Quiet waters on the Oxford Canal south of the Heyfords. Downloaded by Colin Garnham-Edge from waterwaysworld.com 64 | APRIL 2013 | www.waterwaysworld.com Thames Ring

PRACTICALITIES Can I do the Thames Ring in a wide-beam? Sadly no, the Oxford Canal section of the cruise is for narrowboats only. Can I do it in a 70ft boat? Yes, without let or hindrance. What licences will I need? Most of the Ring is on Canal & River Trust waters, but you’ll also require a licence for the Thames (administered by the ), which is covered by the joint CRT/EA Gold Licence. Do I need to book? Only for Thames Locks at Brentford which should be booked in advance on 020 8568 2779 (see Navigating the tidal Thames overleaf). What precautions should I take? Anchor and lifejackets are essential LEFT: Ascending the Claydon ight on the for the Thames, plus a VHF radio Oxford Canal. ABOVE: Working through the or fully charged mobile phone for locks at Napton. RIGHT: Folly Bridge, Oxford. the (but see Navigating the tidal Thames). Some form of mechanical trouble cannot be ruled Oxford out on an extended cruise such as this, so consider signing up with River Unlike Cambridge, Oxford doesn’t turn its Canal Rescue or similar recovery/ best face to the river – nor to the canal for repair service prior to setting off. that matter. But don’t give up on it too easily, for this is a city rich in history and culture. NAVIGATING THE Start your exploration at the Carfax, the crossroads in the centre of town. The streets west TIDAL THAMES (Queen Street) and north (Cornmarket) of here are uninspiring shopping thoroughfares, but things Passage between and get more interesting when you walk east along “The High”. Lined with colleges, this is the heart of Brentford takes approximately one and the world-famous university. The side streets to the south (especially Merton Street) are more a quarter hours. Ideally you should pass evocative still, while to the north you’ll nd the curious Radcliffe Camera and the Bodleian Library. through 30 minutes Walking past these will take you to Broad Street, another Oxford highlight. before high water, and certainly no You should try to visit the Covered Market, situated between Cornmarket and The High, more than 30 minutes after, to utilise while another must-see lies nearby: the Ashmolean Museum, packed with antiquities, art and the ebb . In the opposite direction archaeology. You can nish your tour by heading north up Walton Street to Jericho, a good place to you should leave Brentford some eat or catch an art-house lm. two hours before high water to travel with the ow. Teddington Lock may be contacted on 020 8940 8723. battle), while most folk music fans will know Whateley, the canalside village, with its iconic Thames Locks at Brentford are that Fairport Convention performs here every lift-bridge, was clearly the star of the show. open only at speci c states of the tide August at the renowned Cropredy Festival. All too soon, Oxford’s somewhat bland and should be booked 24 hours in Just when you’re thinking that the South northern suburbs reach out to engulf the canal. advance on 020 8568 2779. The IWA produces a Thames Tideway Guide Oxford must be a waterway hand-crafted in Two routes lead to the Thames. Plan A is to which costs 50p including postage. heaven, the M40 noisily gatecrashes the party, continue past allotments, playing elds and non- Call for a copy on 01494 783453. criss-crossing the canal three times in just a few descript housing to the heart of the city where, just You should always wear lifejackets miles. And – once cruelly described before the terminus, you descend through Louse on the tideway. Make sure your as a ‘boil on the bum’ of the Oxford Canal Lock into the which disgorges anchor is to hand and ideally a life – doesn’t overly endear itself either, although its you into the river close to Oxford railway station. ring too. Authority shopping and commercial facilities will doubtless Duke’s Cut offers a far more edifying regulations stipulate all craft over prove useful to many Thames Ring travellers. introduction to the Royal River which you 45ft must carry a VHF radio and listen Re-af rming its rural credentials, the Oxford join above King’s Lock. After so many miles of on Channel 14, but narrowboats Canal journeys through a succession of pretty ‘innocuous’ canal cruising, you should respect travelling between Teddington and villages, including and the two Heyfords: the weirs here and at Godstow, just downstream. Brentford may use a mobile phone to Upper and Lower. The infant River And so to Port Meadow where horses, sheep report to London VTS when setting comes alongside, playfully escorting you on your and cows graze contentedly against the magical off and arriving (020 8855 0315). southbound journey. Does Thrupp seem familiar, backdrop of Oxford’s dreaming spires. What Two orange lights mark the even if you’ve never ventured this way before? an introduction to the Thames! Can it get any navigation arch at each bridge, Possibly, for it featured in the Inspector Morse better than this? Moor below Bridge while and Richmond Half-Tide Lock tale The Riddle of the Third Mile; notwithstanding you explore the city – and don’t rush, this is one is beside the southern bank. theDownloaded acting talents by of Colin John ThawGarnham-Edge and Kevin from waterwaysworld.comof the highlights of the entire Thames Ring. www.waterwaysworld.com | APRIL 2013 | 65 Oxford to Brentford KEITH GOSS KEITH

Oxford to Brentford 98 miles | 35 locks | 1 week

Although it has to concede second there is the succession of genteel best to the glories of the Cam at towns and villages: Wallingford, Goring, Cambridge, Oxford’s river (historically Whitchurch, Henley and Marlow. All referred to here as ) is full of will tempt you with their pleasant interest. Folly Bridge is the focal point. moorings and beguile you into spending The adjoining Head of the River pub copious amounts of time and money attracts students, tourists and locals in their sophisticated shops, inns and alike, but more signicantly, this is the restaurants. Sophisticated may not be an home of Salter Bros, famed operators of adjective too often ascribed to Reading, Thames steamers for over 150 years. A but this is perhaps the place to attend short distance downstream you renew to such mundane activities as buying acquaintance with your old friend the the groceries for the rest of the trip. Cherwell – beware of novice punters and The Thames is at its most ostentatious rowers coming at you from all angles! and regal best below Marlow. World- So this is the mighty Thames, so famous tourist attractions – Windsor revered in poetry and prose down the Castle, Eton College, Hampton Court ages. It provides a culture shock after Palace – line its banks. How can you the shabby chic (sometimes just shabby) possibly t them all into your schedule? of the Canal & River Trust waterways Stoke Bruerne, Blisworth Tunnel and you’ve become accustomed to on Buckby Locks, back on the ‘earthy’ the journey so far. Beautifully-kept GU, suddenly seem to belong to a locks await you, such as that at Ifey, different world. Reach is said electrically operated and generally by many to be the nest on the river. manned, although ‘self-service’ is Dense beechwoods rise sheer from available at certain times – look out for the water, crowned by the impressive the blue signs. Abingdon is a welcoming bulk of Cliveden House, scene of port of call, with free meadowside the Profumo scandal (with Christine moorings, good pubs and restaurants, Keeler) in 1963. It brought down the and a splendid little museum lurking Conservative government a year later. within County Hall in the Market Place. Nothing can bring you down though, Words can scarcely convey the surrounded by such grace and elegance. beauty of the Middle Thames, At Teddington Lock the Thames goes notably the Sinodun and Dykes tidal. There are in fact three locks: the Hills at Dorchester, the , Lock (650ft x 24ft 9in), Old or graceful Beale Park and the extensive Launch Lock (178ft x 24ft 4in) and Skiff Downloaded by Colin Garnham-Edge from waterwaysworld.comwatermeadows at . And Lock (49ft x 5ft 10in). In your humble 66 | APRIL 2013 | www.waterwaysworld.com Thames Ring

Boulter’s Lock. GOSS KEITH

or cruiser you will normally use the Old Lock, though if approaching from downstream, an illuminated arrow will show you which to use. The locks are manned 24 hours a day. A new and exciting chapter of your epic Thames Ring has begun – you’re on the Tideway! But there is nothing to fear provided you are well prepared. (See below for essential boating advice.) With its stately bridge and immaculate LEFT: Delectable Thames backwater waterfront, Richmond is quite the at Whitchurch. ABOVE: Day’s Lock. loveliest town on the lower river; but RIGHT: Popular pub at Sandford. probably best appreciated by mooring BELOW: Abingdon’s attractive waterfront. above Teddington Lock and catching the train. Richmond Half-Tide Lock is under the control of the and serves to maintain a minimum depth of 5ft 9in in the reach up to Teddington. Two hours after high water, sluices are lowered into the river to create this depth, remaining in place until two hours before the next high water. During this period all craft must use the lock, which, like Teddington, is manned all day, every day. With a nal ourish, you breeze majestically past and Syon House to arrive at Brentford and the reliable old Grand Union Canal. Phew, what a cruise! Time to relax and savour the achievement, check your engine and plan your next trip. Perhaps just a gentle ‘poodle’ up the as a recovery…

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Navigation Notes The Thames Ring

● The Grand Union (especially for mooring on the Grand north of Gayton Junction) Union and Oxford canals. and South Oxford canals are among the busiest on the Navigation Authority network, with congestion Environment Agency: commonplace in the summer 03708 506506 months. The Thames, by (website as left) contrast, is much quieter today Canal & River Trust: than in the 1980s, although 03030 404040, it too can be busy with trip (www.canalrivertrust.org.uk) boats, canoes and rowing boats in peak summer. Dimensions ● The speed limit on the Grand Union Canal, non-tidal Thames is 5mph Brentford to Braunston and is regularly enforced. Junction: Length 72ft , ● On the Thames, yellow or beam 12ft 6in, draught 3ft red boards will be displayed 6in, headroom 7ft 6in at locks under ‘strong stream Oxford Canal, Braunston conditions’. Head for a safe Junction to Oxford: Length mooring when yellow boards 72ft, beam 6ft 10in, draught are out, and don’t venture 2ft 9in, headroom 6ft out at all when red boards , Oxford to are displayed. Consult www. Brentford: Length 120ft, environment-agency.gov.uk/ beam 17ft 3in, draught riverthamesconditions. 4ft, headroom 7ft 6in ● Thames banks are privately owned and mooring is generally Other Maps & Guides only at designated locations. Nicholsons Guides to Most towns and villages the Waterways: 1 & 7 offer good moorings (charges Pearsons Canal Companions: may apply), as do many Oxford & Grand Union & riverside pubs – for patrons Kennet & Avon, River Thames only. Meanwhile, The River Thames Book by mooring is freely available Chris Cove-Smith (Imray) Oxford overview Abingdon.

WALKING... AND RUNNING The Thames Ring represents Lesser mortals will a perfect challenge for probably happily settle experienced long-distance for walking sections walkers who would probably of the Thames Path, a expect to cover the distance National opened in in three weeks with a series of 1996. It follows the river carefully planned stops along for 184 miles from its the way. Are you perhaps a source near Kemble in runner as well as waterway Gloucestershire to the enthusiast? Then why not sign Thames Barrier up for the Thames Ring Ultra at in London. Race, which takes place on 3rd There are several good July this year. It’s hard-core guidebooks, including the stuff though, certainly not for Thames Path National Trail lightweights; the winning time Guide by David Sharp and is normally in the region of the Thames Path Companion 75 hours! Best get training if – both available from the you’re interested. National Of ce (www.tra-uk.org/thames-ring). (www.nationaltrail.co.uk).

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