Visitor’s G u ide to ININYOYOCOCOUNTYUNTY

Main Street, ca.1930 Bishop, Courtesy of Eastern California Museum SESQUICENTENNIAL ISSUE www.TheOtherSideOfCalifornia.com AND THE EASTERN SIERRA INYOCOUNTY SESQUICENTENNIAL ISSUE Made possible with a Grant from The County of Inyo Table of Contents

Inyo County Celebrates CHAMBERS OF COMMERCE Its Sesquicentennial OF INYO COUNTY

2 Lone Pine Chamber of Commerce 120 South Main Street P.O. Box 749 The Owens Lone Pine, California 93545 (760) 876-4444 River of Many Uses www.lonepinechamber.org 7 Bishop Area Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Bureau The 690 N. Main Street Bishop, California 93514 Bird Festival 760-873-8405 • 888-395-3952 11 wwwBishopVisitor.com Death Valley Chamber of Commerce P.O. Box 15 Beauty of Tecopa, California 92389 The Bishop Murals (888) 600-1844 www.deathvalleychamber.org 12 [email protected] Government Agencies: The Old Spanish Trail Winds Its Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Way Into Inyo County’s History (760) 872-5000 16 County of Inyo (760) 878-0366 This Is My Inyo Death Valley National Park (760) 786-3200 19 Manzanar National Historic Site My Life As An Outdoorsman (760) 878-2194 Eastern Sierra Interagency Visitors A Comedy In Several Acts Center 21 (760) 876-6222 -Supervisor PUBLISHED BY: Golden Gate Media Group • [email protected] (760) 873-2400 ADVERTISING SALES David Carrillo (909) 224-8167 Mt. Whitney Ranger Station The information in this Visitors Guide was gathered and carefully compiled to insure maximum accu- racy. Golden Gate Media Group cannot guarantee the correctness of all information furnished them, (760) 876-6200 nor the complete absence of errors or omissions, hence, no responsibility for the same can be, nor is, assumed. Reproduction of any material Printed or Transmitted Electronically from this publication White Mountain Ranger Station is strictly forbidden without written permission from the publisher. © 2016 Lone Pine Chamber of (760) 873-2500 Commerce, Lone Pine California 93545.

INYO COUNTY VISITORS GUIDE SESQUICENTENNIAL ISSUE 1 commodity. But without doubt, the arrival of the Inyo County Celebrates city of and the subsequent export of Inyo’s to the thirsty and growing metropolis to the south Its Sesquicentennial beginning in 1913 has had earth B&W Photographs courtesy of Eastern California Museum Color Photographs and story by David Woodruff shaking impact on the people and the land of Inyo for now over 100 years. The morning of March 22, 2016 dawned brightly over Independence as county workers and community volunteers worked feverishly to put the last minute details in place for the

Inyo County 150 year celebration at the courthouse in Independence March 22, 2016. Early Independence, ca. 1900. t’s not very often a county has seat to be Bend City. the county line so they could be in the opportunity to celebrate a Communication and transportation Inyo County instead of Mono, with 150 year anniversary. On March problems kept the legislation from the reason stated that the trip to the I22, 2016, on the courthouse steps moving forward and a bill to create county seat of Bridgeport was long in Independence, several hundred the county had to be reintroduced and difficult, especially in the winter. people gathered to do just that. Inyo in the 1886 legislature. This time, the Inyo County has seen an active County is 150 years young in 2016. county’s name was to be Inyo with the 150 years. From the 20-Mule Teams of The California state legislature county seat at Independence. The Borax in Death Valley, to the tungsten carved out Inyo County from existing bill passed, the citizens elected their mines of Pine Creek, mining has played Tulare and Mono counties (with more county officials and Inyo County came an important role in the development area added a few years later from into “official” existence. of Inyo. The first white settlers were Kern and Mono counties). Legislation The original northern boundary ranchers, raising cattle for the residents to create the new county was actually was just north of Big Pine. In 1870, the of nearby mining camps on the lush first passed in 1864, with the name of citizens of Bishop, the largest town in grasses of the . Today, the county to be Coso and the county the area, petitioned the state to move cattle are still Inyo’s largest agricultural 2 INYO COUNTY VISITORS GUIDE SESQUICENTENNIAL ISSUE INYO COUNTY VISITORS GUIDE SESQUICENTENNIAL ISSUE 3 highly anticipated celebration to be other classic cars, all of which lined held later that day on the courthouse Highway 395. Community members steps. The Inyo Board of Supervisors, from Independence dressed in their dignitaries, invited guests, pioneer fi nest period dress adding to the classic families and keynote speakers would look of the celebration. all be part of the gala event. The Inyo County Sheriff Color Guard The setting could not have smartly presented the California and been more perfect with the stately fl ags with Inyo’s fi rst courthouse gracing the scene to the county administrator and rancher John east while the majestic Sierra K. Smith leading the crowd of several formed a picture perfect backdrop hundred in the pledge of allegiance. to the west. The Model A car club After a welcome from County from Bishop drove their classics Supervisor and Board Chairman Jeff down from Bishop and were joined by Griffi ths, the character of Inyo County’s fi rst newspaperman, historian and legend Willie Chalfant presented the fi rst keynote address reminding the attendees how the strength of their “Chicken” Smith making a delivery community has seen them through challenging times in the past and counties, along with offi cials from the Former Inyo County Water Director

Monte & Cora Williams, Owners will bear them well now and into the state of California and US House of Greg James recounted the history to future. Dignitaries and guests from Representatives. Being unsure if Inyo the people of Inyo’s many challenges Death Valley to Bishop made stirring County ever fulfi lled their fi nancial in dealing with water issues and how it speeches highlighting the greatness of obligation to pay Mono County for has survived them. James said, “Thus, Inyo’s people and their history. the Bishop area when it withdrew it can be seen that even facing great Proclamations honoring Inyo and from Mono in 1870, the Inyo Board of challenges, the citizens and offi cials its sesquicentennial were offered by Supervisors presented Mono County of Inyo County have the opportunity offi cials from Mono, Inyo and Kern with a “check” for $12,000. to follow the example of the many Western Gateway to DOW Death Valley National Park All Amenities • Free High Speed Internet Center of Town • Pool & Spa Golf • Senior Discounts • Smoke Free Major Credit Cards Top, West Line Street, Bishop, ca.1920. Middle. Inyo County Courthouse dedication, 1923. The Grill Restaurant Adjacent Summer Hours open until 9 pm. Bottom, Inyo Sesquicentennial Celebration, 2016. MOTEL

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4 INYO COUNTY VISITORS GUIDE SESQUICENTENNIAL ISSUE INYO COUNTY VISITORS GUIDE SESQUICENTENNIAL ISSUE 5 The Owens River River of Many Uses by David Woodruff

he Owens River is the lifeblood end to the Native American way of life. was the water rights of these farmers and of the City of Los Angeles. It Ranchers quickly diverted Owens River ranchers that the City quickly pursued. was the diversion of its water to water for their own use, to grow hay for Many sold out. Others held on but Tthe great metropolis through their cattle. Farmers moved in and took eventually caved in to the financial and the LA Aqueduct, which allowed that the best land for themselves. Increasing social pressures put on them by the City. city to grow from just 100,000 in 1900 to numbers of white settlers made it nearly Today, less than 15,000 acres of land in 1.2 million just 30 years later. impossible for the Paiute and Inyo County are under cultivation. Previous to the diversions, the Owens to maintain their way of life. Once diversions started in 1913, the River served the area’s first inhabitants, At its peak, farmers and ranchers loss of water and the effect it had on native Paiutes and , quite well. in the Owens Valley had almost 80,000 Inyo was profound. About 5 miles south They built small diversion dams to irrigate acres of land under cultivation. When of Lone Pine sat the 108 square mile crops to supplement their food stores. Los Angeles officials arrived in 1905 to Owens Lake. This desert lake supported The arrival of white settlers put an begin construction of their aqueduct, it a huge population of waterfowl and other wildlife. By 1926, just 13 years after the Owens River was diverted into the LA Aqueduct, Owens Lake was dry. The Owens River begins on the icy slopes of the Eastern Sierra just south of June Mountain Ski Area. Small creeks combine in Glass Creek Meadows to form Glass Creek, the furthest natural reach of this over-utilized watercourse. Glass Creek soon joins Deadman Creek and flows easterly under US Highway 395 just before the climb to Deadman Pass. These two creeks are joined by smaller tributaries and springs and together they soon flow into the northern reaches of the broad expanse of Long Valley where it becomes well known to fishermen and women as the Top, Independence, ca. 1900. “Upper Owens”. Bottom, Inyo Sesquicentennial Celebration 2016. For 26 miles, the Owens River winds citizens and officials who have worked 75 pies baked by Culinarians from Sesquicentennial on March 22, 2016 its way through this picturesque setting tirelessly over the past 100 years to throughout Inyo County satiated the agree it was a perfect day and one toward 50-plus square mile Crowley protect and enhance the valley’s appetition of the attendees. that will be long remembered. The Lake, the largest storage reservoir on environment, economy and way of life And if the assemblage of revelers good news for those that missed it, the Owens. Fly-fishing is the sport here in this Land of Little Rain. hadn’t already been thoroughly Inyo’s 150th celebration will continue with brilliant rainbows, brown trout, and The Courthouse Celebration ended satisfied, a special commemorative throughout the remainder of 2016. cutthroat testing the skills of anglers. with 5th generation member of Inyo keepsake published by the Inyo 150 Civic and community organizations From , the Owens River pioneer family, Rob Pearce urging the Sesquicentennial Committee, Heritage will be hosting history presentations, drops steeply through the voluminous crowd to never forget their heritage and Humble Pie was given to all who field trips, history walks and dozens . The Gorge was and how important it is in shaping who attended this grandest of days. The of other events as continual reminder formed when the Owens River cut we are today. 115 page book was a collection of the of the importance of 2016 in Inyo’s through the Bishop : a layer of welded Once the events finished up at the recipes used to prepare the tasty pies history. You can go to http://www. ash formed from volcanic activity courthouse, the group progressed interspersed with short stories of Inyo’s theothersideofcalifornia.com/inyo- erupting in Long Valley thousands of across the street to the Independence history. 150-calendar-of-events/ to see a years ago. This erosion exposed the tuff Legion Hall where a pie social rivaling Most of those that attended complete list of upcoming Inyo 150 layers, including rare columnar rhyolite the “best of them” was held. Over the celebration of Inyo County’s events. Pleasant Valley Reservoir...where the Owens river enters Inyo County.

6 INYO COUNTY VISITORS GUIDE SESQUICENTENNIAL ISSUE INYO COUNTY VISITORS GUIDE SESQUICENTENNIAL ISSUE 7 Owens River looking south from Mazourka Canyon Road, east of Independence.

formations. As the Owens River enters the fl ats of siphons, canals, pipes and reservoirs, Though most of the fl ow of the Owens of the Owens Valley, its speed slows entirely by gravity. It was and still is River here passes through huge pipes as as it makes its way peacefully through considered a marvel of engineering. it drops quickly towards the Owens Valley the bottom-lands. At one time, several In 2006, after years of negotiations through three electrical generating irrigation ditches fed off the river and litigation, the City of Los Angles powerhouses, enough water is allowed enabling ranchers and farmers to enjoy agreed to allow water to fl ow on a to fl ow through the Gorge’s natural an agrarian lifestyle. Today, a small permanent basis down the 63 miles of stream course to support a healthy amount of water from the Owens River the Owens River dry riverbed below the brown trout population. still fi nds its way to the rancher’s fi elds, Aberdeen diversion, all the way to Owens The steep vertical walls of the Gorge but mostly, it fl ows south to slake the thirst Lake. This part of the river had been dry attract climbers from throughout the of a sprawling metropolis. ever since 1913, except in exceptionally world and foot trails wind throughout About 10 miles south of Big Pine, at wet years. Today, riparian growth and the Gorge providing numerous hiking a location called Aberdeen, the River is wildlife has returned to this section of the opportunities, especially during the diverted into a ditch, and from here, fl ows river as nature tries hard to re-establish cooler months. 233 miles to Los Angeles through a series and restore this watery desert gem.

OPEM ALL YEAR VISITING HOURS 10 A.M. TO 4 P.M.

Top, Owens River looking south from Hwy 6. Bottom, Owens River just south of the Pleasant Valley Dam.

8 INYO COUNTY VISITORS GUIDE SESQUICENTENNIAL ISSUE INYO COUNTY VISITORS GUIDE SESQUICENTENNIAL ISSUE 9 The Owens Lake Bird Festival by Michael Prather nce again thousands of the annual Owens Lake Bird Festival Department of Water and Power. Each migrating shorebirds and put on by Friends of the Inyo (www. has an information kiosk and walking waterfowl are migrating friendsoftheinyo.org) each April. During and driving routes. Othrough Owens Lake the festival guided tours led by experts 1.) Boulder Creek Route – From the during spring and fall. A California take participants out onto Owens Lake Whitney Portal Road junction with Hwy wildlife heritage that was lost has to see the wonder of migration and 395 drive 4.5 miles south of Lone Pine to returned – good news for a change. the amazing numbers of birds. With Boulder Creek RV Park on the left side of Flying marathon distances from as binoculars, spotting scopes and field the highway. Turn in and drive 3.1 miles far away as South America and the guides the natural history stories of the east on the unpaved road to a right turn Arctic, the awe of seeing these birds is bird species are shared. Where are they south. Follow the signs. You will come overwhelming. They pause at Owens coming from and where are they going? to ponds and bird foraging areas with Lake for rest and to put on fat because What are they eating? Additional tours good roads around them for viewing. the next leg of their journey north or include geology, local history, Sierra 2.) Dirty Socks Route – In Olancha south will be hundreds, if not thousands Nevada canyons and dunes. For a look (22 miles south of Lone Pine) turn east of miles away. They will fly it non-stop. at the full program from 2016 go to the off of Hwy 395 onto Hwy 190. Drive 4.5 Flocks of thousands of American Friends of the Inyo website. The April 21- miles east to the Dirty Socks haul road avocets and sand pipers can be 23, 2017 program will be up as soon as on the left. Follow the signs. You will it is finalized. Ornithologist Joseph Grinnell visited Owens Lake several times early in the Owens River fl owing into north end of Owens Lake, southeast of Lone Pine. last century. In his field notebook for September 24, 1917 he recorded, “Great Dry Owens Lake itself is seeing a numbers of water birds are in sight Photography can be purchased thru the Lone Pine Chamber resurgence in its own environmental along the shore – Avocets, Phalaropes health. The dry lake was once considered and Ducks. Large flocks of shorebirds Phalaropes one of the single largest contributors to in flight over the water in the distance, pass expanses of dust control work air pollution, fouling the air with its dust wheeling about show en masse´, now managed by Los Angeles to end the when the winds blew. Since 2001, the silvery now dark, against the gray-blue regional hazardous dust problem at Deadline for 2017 submissions city of Los Angeles has been working of the water. There must literally be Owens Lake. The dust was caused by under a court order to reduce the dust, thousands of birds within sight of this the drying up of the lake to quench the JUNE 23rd American avocets For rules & regulations: and today, 90% of the former dry lake- spot. En route around the south end thirst of Los Angeles starting in 1913 with www.lonepinechamber.org bed is under effective dust control. seen feeding on the lake-bed or of Owens Lake to Olancha saw water cutting off the Owens River which fed Shallow pools of water have been wheeling through the sky. Birds of birds almost continuously.” the lake. spread over much of the lake, providing prey can sometimes be seen flashing Birding at Owens Lake 3.) Plaza Route – Drive 3.1 miles a resurgence in visits by waterfowl. The among the flocks looking for a meal. The best dates for viewing the south of the Whitney Portal Road City recently opened its Owens Lake Audubon designated Owens Lake an migrating shorebirds and waterfowl at junction with Hwy 395 to Hwy 136. Trails project. Three different access Important Bird Area in 2001 owing to Owens Lake are mid-March to mid-May Turn left onto Hwy 136 and drive 10.3 points provide 4 miles of hiking trails, the large number of migrating birds and mid-August to early November. miles east. Turn right on the unpaved taking in the scenery and providing and significant number of snowy Highest numbers of shorebirds are seen road and follow the signs. You will see wildlife-viewing opportunities. plovers, a Species of Special Concern in the second half of April and August. the stunning landscape architectural The Owens River has had a long in California. Set in the southern Owens High numbers of waterfowl (ducks) project built as part of the public history of serving humankind, and Valley at 3,600 feet near Lone Pine, occur in October. access for wildlife viewing. Inspired by continues to go through many changes Owens Lake is framed by the 14,000 For enjoying the history and beauty the wing curve of the snowy plover the as it works hard to please everyone. foot High Sierra crest to the west and of this wonderful valley and landscape, shade structure casts the shadows of View the 2016 entries Perhaps the Owens can be best summed the 11,000 foot to the any time of year is fine, although it is flying birds onto the plaza. Trails lead July 15th - Nov. 30th 760.876.4444 at the Visitor’s Center up in a Mark Twain quote, “A river is like east. This is a world class landscape – recommended that visitors not drive out out to viewing areas with interpretive in Lone Pine, California Hosted by the a book, but not a book to be read once the Inter Mountain West. onto the lake after rain or . panels discussing the natural history of Follow Us On Lone Pine Chamber of Commerce and thrown aside, for it has a new story to Now visitors may tour the lake on Three public access locations have migrating birds, Owens lake history and © Photo by Goodwin 2012 Sponsored by Inyo County tell every day.” their own or better yet by attending been developed by the Los Angeles geology.

10 INYO COUNTY VISITORS GUIDE SESQUICENTENNIAL ISSUE INYO COUNTY VISITORS GUIDE SESQUICENTENNIAL ISSUE 11 Beauty of The Bishop Murals Photographs and story by David Woodruff he city of Bishop is well rock formations all make for a setting itself. Along the walls of buildings known for the natural beauty of world-class stature. With the throughout the town, one can find that surrounds it. Majestic surrounding scenery this spectacular, beautiful artwork that challenges Tmountains, cascading creeks, one might easily overlook the beauty the eyes to stay focused on the more lush green fields and picturesque that can be found inside the town urban scene instead.

Or at the Eastern California Museum, enjoying these exhibits Building The Kittie Lee Inn, south side of Whiskey Creek, 524 N. Main Street. Manzanar WW II Relocation Center Sierra Mountaineer Norman Clyde At fifteen different sites in Bishop, art to be found anywhere. Author Mary Austin one can find the town’s history and Intent on showcasing the Paiute/Panamint Shoshone Baskets heritage artfully displayed in a fascinating history of the Owens Valley, spectacular outdoor art gallery of the murals depict scenes ranging from Open Daily from 10-5 picturesque murals. Founded in 1997 railroading to medicine and from 760-878-0258 by Barbel and David Williams, Dan mining to religion. 155 N. Grant Street, Independence, CA Wells and John Knowlton, the Bishop The Society’s first mural “Trompe 3 Blocks West of The Historic Courthouse Mural Society has produced some of L’oiel Mural,” was completed in 1997 www.inyocounty.us/ecmuseum the most beautiful large scale works of by Bob Unkrich, Barbel Williams, John

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Top, Will Rogers, kids and ice cream at Dwayne’s Pharmacy on West Line Street. Bottom, Father Crowley at north side of Body & Soul, 197 North Main Street.

12 INYO COUNTY VISITORS GUIDE SESQUICENTENNIAL ISSUE INYO COUNTY VISITORS GUIDE SESQUICENTENNIAL ISSUE 13 Will Rogers enjoying an ice cream with some of the town’s children. And ClCleeaann aaffffoorrddaabbllee rroooommss iinn BBiisshhoopp nneeaarr fl anking the roof-line of the same MMaammmmootthh MMoouuntntaaiinn && iinn OOllaanncchhaa,, building are four separate nine- Gateway to Death Valley, minutes to Mt. Whitney foot panels depicting the “History of Gateway to Death Valley, minutes to Mt. Whitney Medicine”. Updattedd RRoommss wwiitthh FFllaatt SSccrreeeenn TTVV’’ss FFrreeee WWFFII DDuuvveettss At 400 W. Line Street, is one of the PPeett FFrriieennddllyy 22 BBeeddrroooomm FFaammiillyy RRoooommss FFiisshh CClleeananiinngg Society’s more controversial works, Tiipii’’ss && Swiimming pool iin Ollanccha Calliifoforrniia.. “Drain” by John Pugh. An agricultural Callll foforr ddettaiillss orr gogo on lliine att biisshopmottellss.n.nett.. Shangri La appears as a mural within a mural. This vision of the valley’s past Olancha RV Park Trees Motel El Rancho Motel is not meant to portray a specifi c & Motel & Cafe` Bishop Bishop vantage point yet rather allow the 760-873-6391 760-873-6391 760-872-9251 Sunland Orchard, at the Bishop Nursery, 789 North Home Street. viewer an ambient experience of Knowlton and David Williams. This the ecology of the Owens Valley mural was painted to match the before the LA Department of Water & windows, awnings and siding of the Power diversions began. A protruding Mt Whitney Fish Hatchery adjacent building, which now houses drainpipe symbolizes the diversion of Trails Motel a real estate broker. Mural Society water down the LA aqueduct, and all founder David Williams is pictured as the things that went with it. in real life. Murals are not always done in Today, Bishop is well known for paint. “Celebrating the Sierra” by having some of the Eastern Sierra’s Patricia Holton, Betty Cameron, 760.876.5555760.876.5555 best bakeries. The town’s history for Susanne Olson, Margaret Phelps, Sara 760.878.2127 producing delicious baked goods Steck, Coleen Randolph, Earl Gann, Swimming Pool dates back over a hundred years. In Carolyn Lynch & Carol Conner-Turner, Walk to Restaurants Just north of Independence 1998, Janet Essley completed “Bishop is a natural history mural of ceramic trailsmotel.com 633 S. Main Street, Lone Pine California Bakery 1922”, which showcases tiles and mosaic. The 237 individual a scene of Basque sheepherders tiles have been handcrafted, passing with their fl ocks in front of the stamped and decorated by over 110 patisserie. members of the local community. The One of the more unique murals mural is dedicated to the committed in Bishop is the “Young at Heart” volunteers of Inyo County Search and by John Pugh. Inscribed with words Rescue. The mural can be seen on the as a land title, it cleverly presents a east wall of the Bishop Library. layered sample of Bishop heritage, These are just some of the beautiful a “sedimentary survey” if you will. murals that you can see on a visit to Steaks,Steaks, Sandwiches,Sandwiches, Ribs,Ribs, Pasta,Pasta, The top layer is of bullets, spurs, Bishop. Most of Bishop murals are within and so much more! horseshoes, railroad spikes, rusted easy walking distance to the downtown water valves, and old keys, a sampling corridor. The Bishop Mural Society has of Bishop’s more recent history. Next put together an informative website, BUS SERVICE ON THE US 395 CORRIDOR AllAll NewNew MenuMenu BestBest onon 395!395! are Bristlecone pine roots, followed where you can fi nd information about –————–——————— by Paiute arrowheads and beads, the murals and a self-guiding map. SERVICE TO ALL POINTS BETWEEN followed by fossilized Mammoth tusks Maps are also available at the Bishop RENO (Airport and Greyhound Station) AND and Saber-tooth skulls. Bringing up Chamber of Commerce and other LANCASTER (Metrolink - with connections to the LA area) TheThe BestBest SteaksSteaks OutdoorOutdoor the bottom layer are fossils of ancient locations throughout Bishop. The DAILY TRIPS BETWEEN LONE PINE, BISHOP & MAMMOTH && RibsRibs inin Town!Town! Dining roots, prehistoric leaves and Trilobites. Bishop Murals are maintained thanks –————–——————— On the lighter side, a dog named to the generosity and support of the 760-872-1901 www.estransit.com Hunter helps to “ground” this piece people that enjoy them. The Bishop as he looks out from the top layer and Mural Society invites you to become “sniffs the air for a bone, but picks up a member. You don’t have to be an Totem Cafe (760)(760) 876-4726 the scent of an eon.” artist to belong. For more information Totem Cafe 876-4726 On the west side of Dwayne’s on how you can support the Bishop 131131 S.S. MainMain StreetStreet LoneLone Pine,Pine, CA.CA. Family Pharmacy, Phillip Slagter has Murals call (760) 872-2428, or go to OpenOpen DailyDaily // BestBest OutdoorOutdoor PatioPatio // GiftGift ShopShop created a lighthearted scene showing http://www.bishopmurals.com.

14 INYO COUNTY VISITORS GUIDE SESQUICENTENNIAL ISSUE INYO COUNTY VISITORS GUIDE SESQUICENTENNIAL ISSUE 15 The Old Spanish Trail Winds Its Way Into Inyo County’s History Photographs and Story by Susan Sorrells

Old Spanish Trail with a veiw of Spring Mountain Range.

Remains of Historic Rock House on Old Spanish Trail.

his year Inyo County inhabitants in a territory before it could California was still a Spanish colony. This proudly celebrates its become a state, and in 1848, at the trail is called the Old Spanish Trail and Sesquicentennial. Inyo time of the signing of the Treaty of much of it, from the Nevada border TCounty was formed on March Guadalupe Hidalgo, there were only to San Bernardino County, traverses 22, 1866, only 16 years after California 7,500 residents in what later became Southeast Inyo County. became the 35th state in the union. California. Leroy and Ann Hafen, two of the Neither of these events would have The discovery of gold at Sutter’s Mill leading scholars on the Old Spanish occurred so quickly however, despite and the ensuing gold rush dramatically Trail described it as being “the longest, the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in changed these statistics. Between crookedest, most arduous pack 1848 that ceded much of Mexico’s 1848 and 1855 it is estimated that over mule route in the history of America.” northern territories to the United States, 300,000 prospectors who became Although the trail had been used without another event that occurred known as the forty-niners migrated to as a combination of known trails for only nine days before the treaty was California in search of their fortunes. over a 100 years to travel from New signed. This event was the discovery Many of these forty-niners followed a Mexico to California the trail became of gold at Sutter’s Mill in Coloma, trail that had been established in the a much more established route when California. At that time in United States late 1700s from Santa Fe, New Mexico the merchant Antonio Armijo from history there had to be at least 60,000 to Los Angeles, California when Santa Fe, New Mexico began using the

16 INYO COUNTY VISITORS GUIDE SESQUICENTENNIAL ISSUE INYO COUNTY VISITORS GUIDE SESQUICENTENNIAL ISSUE 17 route on a regular basis around 1829. His excursions were so successful that the route began to be used by other This Is My Inyo traders and commerce on the trail By Julianne Black fl ourished. The parties often consisted of pack trains of 20 to 200 members and twice as many mules. Theses activities his is the 2016 winner of the Inyo continued and the trail expanded as County writing contest hosted different variations of the main route by the Lone Pine Chamber of emerged as more was learned about TCommerce. the terrain and also as a result of the There are too few magical places changing social and environmental on the planet. Places that time seems to conditions. have forgotten altogether, letting them By 1848 however the nature of the carry on without major visible change trail changed dramatically because or corporeal erosion. Deep pockets of the gold rush to California and of beauty and culture where the sun because of the development of the seems to slide slower than normal Mormon community in Salt Lake across a sky too blue to comprehend. City, Utah and along the Old Spanish Where the landscape has such variety Trail. The traffi c on the trail continued that every direction becomes its own to increase when San Bernardino “scenic overlook.” This is life at 3700 feet. became a Mormon settlement in 1851. This is Inyo County, home to, incredibly, Because of the extensive use of the both the lowest point and highest peak trail between 1828 and the late 1850s in the United States. the mule traces and the wagon ruts Many people have Inyo stories. My still can be seen on the land. Emigrant mother-in-law tells a crazy tale (all too Pass, which is now traveled on as an frequently) about how my husband’s Canyon leading to the Spring called “The Rock that Weeps.” Inyo County road, parallels the original head and left shoulder were born in the tracks. And the springs, such as the car along 395 on the way to a Bishop Rock that Weeps, Stump Springs and hospital. Other people have a less- Resting Springs, which were crucial emotional imprint, simply seeing it as CENTRAL for the survival of the people and the a dot on the map. A clean and quick animals along the trail, still exist, it refuel stop on the way up to mountains NEVADA is as if the contemporary traveler is or down to the beach. But my own transported back in time. The Old Inyo stories are of deep love and MUSEUM Spanish Trail has been considered so appreciation. Of growth and family UberUber TwitterTwitter togetherness. Of being unplugged and Come and see our 1900 Logan Field Road important by our national government modern wonders! that it has been declared a part of the part of the natural world around us. Let Tonopah, NV. 89049 National Park Service System, joining me tell you about my Inyo. Open Tue-Sat 9am -5pm the Death Valley National Park and With a goofy Great Dane and a Gift Shop & Archival Research Library 775.482.9676 Manzanar. precocious toddler, having room to run, www.tonopahnevada.com endless unusual geography to explore, and plenty of “backup plan” options makes the Inyo area our favorite stomping ground. My personal stories (and sometimes social media posts for the grandparents) are dotted and splashed with mini camping excursions and family adventures. Perfect little capsules in time, like seeing who can Diaz Lake water color painting by Sharon Pauer spot the crazy lizard rock in the Alabama don’t try. This is my Inyo. bleached back roads, this area offers Hills first. Or going up to Whitney Portal For those who do their research, the infinite discoveries for families during a for a veggie burger at the cool little Inyo area is like a Super-Sized botanical day trip or long holiday weekend. And, Shoshone Development 760.852.4224 • Fax: 760.852.4250 snack and gear shop surrounded by garden – but without the entrance fee, if you hit it right, watch the terrain bloom P.O. Box 76 • State Highway 127 [email protected] waterfalls, streams and pools too cold over-priced snack bar and gaudy gift into the most fantastic panoramic Shoshone, CA 92384 shoshonevillage.com most days for little piggies – not that we shop. From snow-capped peaks to sun- canvas of wildflowers in the brightest

18 INYO COUNTY VISITORS GUIDE SESQUICENTENNIAL ISSUE INYO COUNTY VISITORS GUIDE SESQUICENTENNIAL ISSUE 19 hues nature has to offer. It certainly also book. You can almost hear the horses, when I was living in Southern California. works in our favor that my daughter is and truly expect to see them around Back then, Inyo was nothing more than a big fan of “bumpy rides” (going off- every corner kicking at the dirt roads a sleepy stretch of drive-throughs and My Life As An Outdoorsman roading) and there is simply nowhere and snorting their greetings. The true an inconvenient speed trap along the better to take a nice long drive in a timelessness of the mountain backdrop impossibly lengthy and monotonous direction you’ve never gone before lined with the frontier-style architecture drive to Mammoth for us. It wasn’t until A Comedy in Several Acts for a picnic dinner among the Joshua of iconic downtown Lone Pine can my husband got a job at China Lake By Chris Langley trees at sunset. This is my Inyo. transport the daydreamer easily and and our little family moved up to the Besides the natural beauty, Inyo is completely out of the modern day, high desert that I understood what was something of a mosquito in history’s making it well known in the movie really here. What appeared at fi rst to amber. Our family loves to wander industry for doing exactly that. be something of a drop of in the middle around the western towns – human You can certainly blow through Inyo of nowhere became the greatest gift. and ghost alike, as if walking through on your way to somewhere else, and Now my daughter grows up with a sense a dusty page in John Wayne’s scrap heaven knows, I did it dozens of times of pride in her natural environment. An interest in conservation. A respect for wildlife. • Camping • Golf • Fishing This diverse and wonderful patch • Museums • Parks • Trail of country became our backyard & Visitors Walking playground. I’ll never look back. Some Centers • Water Sports • Hunting days we don’t plan at all. We just pack a lunch, pile everyone in the Jeep and pick a direction. If it gets hot, we head ComingComing Soon:Soon: OwensOwens LakeLake TrailsTrails up. If it gets cold, we head down. Easy- and Bird Watching Habitat peasy. And thankfully all in a doable and Bird Watching Habitat driving distance for a restless moose- EnjoyEnjoy thethe pristinepristine EasternEastern SierraSierra courtesycourtesy ofof LosLos AngelesAngeles DepartmentDepartment ofof WaterWater && Power.Power. sized canine and impatient four year ForFor moremore informationinformation visitvisit http://wsoweb.ladwp.com/Aqueducthttp://wsoweb.ladwp.com/Aqueduct old clad in her favorite hiking boots and a tutu. This is my Inyo.

South Lake located in the Bishop Creek Recreational Area. artmouth [College] ineluctably down the Sierra Crest. We (my father) claims the mountain was carefully cultivated the are at the summit of Mt. Langley. It named. image of the rugged was Memorial Day weekend, when The scramble off the crest is Doutdoors man who was the weather still hasn’t quite made up onerous, more a tumble than an also smart and sophisticated…. The its mind about whether it’s winter or elegant retreat. My beard feels alive Dartmouth Man was strong, brave, summer. The are dark, boiling with electricity, the resonant thunder Tecopa Hot Springs Resort smart, eloquent, self-reliant, free of and lightning flashes within them shakes our bones, and the smell I am female constraints, yet …he was skilled even though it was the middle of the informed later is the smell of ozone, Arts & Crafts, in the outdoors. He could move among day. My companion who has cajoled somewhat bitter and metallic, created Lodging • RV • Camping • Labyrinth all classes by virtue of a complete and me into reaching the summit of Mt. by the proximity of the lightning strikes. well-rounded education that relied Langley yelled for me to follow. Later We survived. Star Parties • Well being Services on wilderness as well as books. He he would assure me I was too dumb I grew up on the East Coast and Bistro Restaurant was John Tallmadge “Deerslayer to realize how dangerous the situation did a lot of camping with my brother with a Degree” in Eco-Man: New was. and parents. I was also a somewhat

(760) 852-4420 Perspectives on Masculinity and He had convinced me to climb it to timid Boy Scout, but was trained in the Nature. sign the book at the top for my great scout way. When I chose Dartmouth, P.O. Box 25, Tecopa, California 92389 • www.tecopahotsprings.org The storm is upon us, moving quickly, great grandfather for whom legend over Yale and Harvard, I knew I was

20 INYO COUNTY VISITORS GUIDE SESQUICENTENNIAL ISSUE INYO COUNTY VISITORS GUIDE SESQUICENTENNIAL ISSUE 21 selecting a more rural, outdoors- oriented school. We had the Freshman Hiking trip as our orientation in the still Home of the all-male college and the College owned a signifi cant part of New Original Hampshire. ® In the Peace Corp in I rode Sheepherder763 N Main Street Bread a camel for hours, slept in the camp Bishop, CA 93514 U.S.A. of Baluchi and Kurdish traders, and (760) 873-7156 climbed the active of Taftan. Fax: (760) 872-4932 Life was rough yet I fell in love with the HOME OF THE E-Mail: [email protected] desert. When I landed in Lone Pine, I ORIGINAL www.ErickSchatsBakery.com SHEEPHERDER BREAD® didn’t know at the time I would spend the rest of my life here. Most of my outdoor life has been wonderful but also marked by slips, tumbles, ineptness and humorous INDEPENDENT LIVING conundrums. Friends and I did a lot of ASSISTED LIVING • TEMPORARY/RESPITE STAYS hiking to go fi shing in the High Sierra. Many days were uneventful and Retire in the Beautiful Sierras beautiful but here are some others. Schedule Your Tour Today! I always told my climbing friends, [email protected]@platinumseniorliving.com who called themselves Fugowee Men that the Nazis would have to be (760) 873-3100 threatening to pull my fi ngernails out before I would belay. Down at Fossil 369 E. Pine Street • Bishop, CA 93514 LICENSE RCFE Visit Us At: www.bishopseniorliving.com # 147203373 Falls the day arrived. One friend was clowning around using a German Lake Sabrina located in the Bishop Creek Recreational Area. accent at the bottom, while the other experience at Bernasconi Center out Full Hook-Ups • Pool • Spa • Mini Mart was above on the edge of the cliff, of Big Pine. I still compare it to my wife’s Bishop Wi-Fi • Pull Throughs • Laundry ropes in hand. I only remember fearing claim that the only reason we have Wi-Fi • Pull Throughs • Laundry for my life, fi nding enough strength to two sons is she somehow forgot the Clubhouse • Dog Park scramble like an insect, although in experience of labor for the fi rst one. Care Center retrospect the only lasting memory Likewise now I remember why I said I Skilled Nursing, Short Term Complimentary Muffins Rehabilitation, and Outpatient Therapy was the experience of being hauled would never climb again. This time I Rehabilitation: andand CoffeeCoffee •• Golf Nearby up by my crotch. mean it. • Occupational therapist, physical therapist and speech-language pathologist on staff Scratching the experience off my It had been raining off and on • Orthopedic, neurological and vestibular rehabilitation bucket list, several years later there and three of us went up to Boy Scout • Pain Management • Cardiovascular and functional strengthening programs 760.876.4243760.876.4243 I was showing my class that I wasn’t Lake in the shadow of Mt. Whitney to www.bouldercreekrvresort.com “afraid” to go back to the ropes. It was fi sh no matter what. Soon one of the 151 Pioneer Lane 760-872-1000 • Fax 760-872-1643 Approx. 4 miles South of Lone Pine East Side of Hwy 395 part of our week -long Outdoor School would-be fi shermen was behaving Bishop, CA 93514 www.BishopCareCenter.com irrationally and beginning to do somewhat dangerous things. He had gotten wetter than us and we soon corralled him in the protection of a All of our meats are smoked large boulder, started a fi re and fed to perfection! him warm food. Luckily, it was a good fi x for hypothermia, which had come Sidekicks & Sweets made on so quickly. I was much respectful of from scratch! getting wet up in the mountains. On a trip to Meysan Lake I suddenly Served with Texas felt deathly ill. I had made the trip Hospitality! several times but now I knew what altitude sickness felt like. It was mostly over in 20 minutes, but I had no 772 N. Main Street Bishop

22 INYO COUNTY VISITORS GUIDE SESQUICENTENNIAL ISSUE INYO COUNTY VISITORS GUIDE SESQUICENTENNIAL ISSUE 23 Mammoth’s Boutique Hotel Experience

The Mammoth Creek INN Ancient Bristlecone Pine Tree on Comforts of the Mammoth Creek Inn: White Mountain. interest in drinking the pint of scotch Renovated and upgraded rooms I had hauled up with me. So I gave Feather Comforters & Luxurious Linens it to my friend, the tax collector, for his pleasure. He arrived at my house Plush Robes about a week later with a gallon of Honor Baskets scotch. When I said “But it was only a pint,” he replied magnanimously, “A Kitchen Suites Available pint up there is worth a gallon down here.” Who said tax collectors are not Indoor European-Style Dry Sauna & Hot Tub generous. Billiard Room On another fishing trip we were hiking up Cottonwood Canyon in Free Cable and On-Demand Movies quest of the illusive Golden Trout. Free Wi-Fi Access Crossing a rushing creek, I slipped on a rock with my full pack on and went into Well Behaved Pets are Welcome a pool of cold rushing water. I couldn’t Complimentary Ski/Board Storage Stream in the Bishop Creek Recreational Area. get up and the water was rushing over my head. I feared the humiliation of Recently Renovated Indoor European-Style drowning in a foot of water, but finally WirelessWireless InternetInternet Dry Sauna and Hot Tub CableCable TVTV freed myself as my friends rushed back TimberlineTimberline MotelMotel KingKing && QueenQueen SizeSize BedsBeds to help. The only problem was I had New Fitness and Steam Rooms CoffeeCoffee •• MicrowaveMicrowave also broken my glasses. The rest of the TIMBERLINE RefrigeratorRefrigerator trip was good if blurry, indistinct fun. Extraordinary Setting & Views QuietQuiet •• OffOff thethe roadroad MOTEL There are lots more stories to tell Steps to the town’s free Shuttle Access WalkingWalking distantdistant toto RestaurantRestaurant and most people are not as disaster- AUTOMOBILE CLUB OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA prone in the outdoors as I am. Inyo Conveniently located in town In Room Amenities Include: COFFEE / MICROWAVE CABLE / HBO REFRIGERATOR AC / HEATING 760.876.4555760.876.4555 VACANCY County is the greatest place to hone Toll Free 866-466-7000 your outdoor skills. Look at me. I am still Complimentary shuttle service to and from 663 Old Mammoth Road alive with no scars or broken bones to Mammoth Yosemite Airport Mammoth Lakes, CA 93546 show for my adventures in the Sierra Ph: 760-934-6162 215 East Post Street • Lone Pine, California Nevada that are at my doorstep. ASK ABOUT OUR YEAR-ROUND SPECIALS www.MammothCreekInn.com 24 INYO COUNTY VISITORS GUIDE SESQUICENTENNIAL ISSUE Fort Independence Travel Plaza & Casino ONE STOP SHOP • GREAT FUEL PRICES OPENOPEN 2424 HOURSHOURS AA DAYDAY -- 77 DAYSDAYS AA WEEKWEEK WE OFFER THE Great Fuel Prices! WE OFFER THE Voted Best Gas Station FRIENDLIESTFRIENDLIEST SERVICESERVICE ONON in Inyo County! HWYHWY 395395 CLEANCLEAN RESTROOMSRESTROOMS

Groceries • BeerPodcaster & Wine in chief: • Ice How •Marc Discount Maron landed Tobacco the Obama interview• Fishing Supplies Native American Jewelry • Souvenirs • Propane • Dump Station Cool, Scenic, Shady Winnedumah Winns RV PARK CAMPGROUND CASINO TENT SITES Jackpots 760.878.2483 $10,000 Full Hook-Up • Electric / Water Hot Showers Flushing Restrooms • Creeks • Ponds • Hiking Fishing • Interpretive Trail •Short Walk to Casino & Store Progressive Open $ Slots $ Winners Large Breakfast & Small 760-878-2483 Lunch & Dinner Comfortable Customer GRILL Friendly Gaming Experience 2 miles north of the town of Independence at the base of the beautiful Eastern Sierra Mountains. 135 N. US HWY 395, Independence, CA 93526