Wouldn’t you like to be here?

Camp at the Pool of Memories with Mt Geryon in the background, Tasmania. Photo: Linda Groom, Canberra Bushwalking Club.

Mt Bowen from the beach, Hinchinbrook Island. Photo: Jacqui Warnock, Narrabri Bushwalkers. Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

The Official Publication of Bushwalking NSW Inc Volume 41, Issue 3, Winter 2016 ISSN 0313 2684 From the

Editor: Roger Caffin editor’s desk. . . [email protected] Graphic Design & Assembly: ecent times have seen an unmitigated assault on the environmental Barry Hanlon protection laws of NSW, at the hands of the Baird party. Do these people Proofreader: Roy Jamieson have no further vision than the profit to be made in the next quarter? Have they ever considered what (destruction) they are leaving for our Bushwalking NSW Officers: R grandchildren? President: Mitchell Isaacs Executive Officer: Kirsten Mayer The same comments could (and should) be made about the yet-again [email protected] resurrection of the proposal to raise the height of . A map of Phone: 02 8003 5545 the effects on various National Parks is horrifying. What is worse is that it is Website: entirely pointless: the water has to reach the sea sooner or later. It would be far www.bushwalkingnsw.org.au better to do a controlled release before any vast river flow happens. The Address all correspondence to: catastrophic floods not too long ago near Brisbane were almost entirely due to a PO Box 904,Darlinghurst, NSW 1300 failure to limit or reduce dam levels in the face of impending storms. It is not Facebook: hard to imagine the same happening here. www.facebook.com/bushwalkingnsw Twitter: @BushwalkingNSW To this must be added the experiences of the dams in the . On the topo maps there are these huge reservoirs covering vast areas. In reality Bushwalking NSW Inc represents most of those dams are nearly empty, and have been so for decades. Vast areas approximately 69 Clubs with a total get destroyed for no gain to society at all. It is all very sad. membership of about 12,700 bushwalkers. On a more cheerful note: the front cover shows Bogong Creek Gorge just north Formed in 1932, Bushwalking NSW of Mt Jagungal. Our speed down the gorge was about 1 km/hr. How many of provides a united voice on behalf of all you knew or guessed we have such wild country in KNP? It is not just alpine bushwalkers on conservation, access meadows there. There are so many corners we have yet to explore. and other issues. Roger Caffin People interested in joining a Editor bushwalking club may write to the Executive Officer at: [email protected] The Bushwalking NSW website www.bushwalkingnsw.org.au contains a list of clubs and lots of useful information on bushwalking, including the Australian Bushwalking FAQ. If you are an adventurer or a stroller, a nature enthusiast or enjoy fitness, you’ll discover great company, amazing landscapes and exiting activities when you join a bushwalking club!

Visit the Bushwalking NSW website to find a Index club near you to join: www.bushwalkingnsw.org.au Wouldn’t you like to be here? 2 From the Editor’s Desk 3 Skywalker Traverse 4 The Bushwalking Club turns 40! 6 Climbing Kosciusko 7 The Grand Hinchinbrook Island Expedition 9 Katherine Gorge 11 Join a Club 12 Keep Catacombs of Temple Creek 14 Exploring. Be amazed! F ront Cov e r: Bogon g C re e k G orge , Kosc iu sko Nat ion al Park. Ph ot o: R oge r C affin . Bac k Cov e r: Pic d' An ie , G R 1 0 , F re n c h Pyre n e e s. Ph ot o: R oge r C affin . The Bushwalker | 3 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club Skywalker Traverse

Michael Keats The Bush Club

Old Baldy and Skywalker Traverse from Newnes Hotel

ome of the very best ‘new’ bushwalks Baldy is a name given by the rock climbing This was all very interesting history but are ‘discovered’ in traditional fraternity to a cliff face 1.3 km north east of our focus was the cliff line above. At 0944 walking areas. They remain Newnes. It consists of towering 360 m we left the property area and noted a cairn ‘undiscovered’ because conventional sheer cliffs. The first documented climb of at that had probably been built by rock thinking says that all the good doable walks it was in July 1960. Most bushwalkers climbers. We now embarked on a long have been done. How wrong this thinking regard it as ‘off limits.’ steady climb to the base of the top cliff line. often is! Recently, during a lull in Yuri had other ideas. He figured that to Here the topographic map is quite conversation in a well-earned afternoon tea climb it there had to be a track to get to the misleading. It shows a cliff line that simply break, Yuri Bolotin had a long hard look at base of the cliff, and just possibly that does not exist. Brian commented that a lot the cliffs visible from the verandah of the access may lead to a rock shelf or bench of maps are now drawn by interpretation of Newnes Hotel. The north east view is of the that is negotiable across the cliff face. There stereo viewing of aerial photos to plot such mighty imposing cliff line of Old Baldy. Old was only one way to find out – go there. features. Dense tree canopies can result in And so it was on 23rd November 2015 that misinterpretation. Yuri led a group of 8 keen participants on Our rate of climb accelerated as 4 twenty an adventure. metre contours were crossed. When there To emphasise where the walk was to take was time we enjoyed great views over place, we met on the verandah of the Old Petries Gully. Petries Gully is a watercourse Newnes Hotel for the briefing session. rising north-east of the Newnes camping Sitting at the guest table we could look up area. It is about 3 km in length and flows to the north east and see the imposing cliff generally south then south east into the face of Old Baldy. When it was explained Wolgan River. This gully has also been that that was where we were going there referred to as Shale Gully. were gasps of incredulity from our two By 1019 we had reached a high ledge guest walkers, followed by questions about that was also the base of the top cliff line how it was possible. The map was laid out and the point where a side gully and canyon and Yuri explained the planned route. allow access to the mid-tier ledge that The map put away, we drove to the crosses the face of Old Baldy. This location eastern edge of the Little Capertee Creek brought back memories of a visit on 9th Camping Ground, parked the vehicles, April 2008 when a group of us attempted, kitted up and were on our way at 0913 ultimately successfully, to climb this walking along the first section of the canyon all the way to the plateau top. Pipeline Track as far as the driveway entrance to the former Fell House. John his time we stopped in the large Fell was one time manager of the Newnes overhang just above the canyon for Industrial Complex early in the 20th morning tea. Refreshed, we descended century. a few metres down into the canyon and Soon the brick foundations of the former began walking upstream along the dry building and brick garden edges were seen. canyon floor, an extremely beautiful place, I These features, together with the surviving was tempted to stop often to take photos. exotic trees and shrubs, are all that remain After about 50 m there is a rising slot on of a once very attractive home. We walked the southern side that provides access to on through the former curtilage and came the next cliff line. This slot is marked every across a unique item, the old tennis court. few metres by small totally unnecessary This would have been perceived by the rock cairns: once you are climbing this slot workers at Newnes to be the height of there is nowhere else to go! luxury. It would have been almost At the top of the slot a tree-covered talus unimaginable for them to contemplate scree slope stretches up to the top cliff line. Traversing the ledge - don’t slip having the time and energy to play games. Again unnecessary cairns mark the way.

4 | The Bushwalker www.bushwalkingnsw.org.au Winter 2016 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

They also misled us as they mark a rock stopped in the climber’s exit route from the top of the morning and, beyond Skywalker cliffs. Having gone to the base of the cliff that, you can look into line, we had to descend a few metres and the valley of Capertee then pick up the correct level where the Creek, trace the course ledge starts. Yuri commented ‘this is the of the Wolgan River start of the Skyline Traverse.’ and see glimpses of our Walking the ledge after climbing and vehicles nearly 350 m clambering was relatively easy. The ledge is below. generally wide and undulating and features Yuri named this an interesting variety of plant species. spot Campground Where it is narrower it is generally devoid Point on a Bush Club of vegetation so movement is easy. In part walk 2nd October 2015 this is due to the continued activities of when he led a walk half rock climbers. There was a lot of evidence way along Skywalker of their presence including many marked Traverse. This point Newnes Campground and beyond from Campground Point spots with cryptic alpha numeric symbols had a protruding rock and, at one location a fixed rope. Brian and platform giving views of the valley and major overhang at GR 426 269. These I noted that high above this rope there was camping area below. Above Campground spaces are good opportunities for a break in another fixed rope complete with foot Point rising in a north west direction is a pace, conversation, and appreciation of loops. Neither of us was keen to test the steep narrow defile, 400 m in length, nature. More cliff base walking and then we strength of the fixed rope. We had no idea variable depth of 80 m and width 10-20 m. encountered another drainage system. This how old it was. Yuri also named this as Campground Defile. one was very familiar to Yuri and is known Twenty minutes of walking later we were This was used as the exit point on 2nd as Faberge Gully. It also meant that we were still on the ledge. Trying to take photos October 2015. now very close to the point where we could showing just how high we were and how After a thorough look around and trying access the descent provided by Cathedral much more cliff was above was difficult. to digitally capture the essence of this spot Canyon. Here there was just too much vegetation. we moved on, now in full exploratoration At 1405, the ribbon of rainforest that we At 1154, we entered a major overhang. mode. This was uncharted territory for had sighted from our lunch spot was now Whilst there was no graffiti and no bushwalkers. It might not prove negotiable. literally at our feet - but there was little else evidence of Aboriginal art, there was a Certainly as we went further north west, at our feet. The access route has been fascinating artefact: a copy of the the cliff line diminished in relative height scoured by overuse and is now very steep in Sun newspaper from September 6th 1968. and after about 300 m we changed the upper sections. Fortunately it was dry. The paper was well preserved, an indication direction to the north east. The view Under wet conditions making a controlled of how dry conditions in the overhang are. contracted to the immediate gully area and safe descent would be nigh impossible. Daryl spent some time reading the the vegetation became more dense. In The descent within the canyon took over advertisements, noting how cheap land and places the ledge was anything but level. It an hour. There were few diversions but one houses were in Sydney then. was a nice change. that was quite amazing was a cluster of four Perhaps the most dramatic point along mature puff balls, Lycoperdon pyriforme. the Skyline Traverse is where a short spur fter another 200 m metres an open These elegant natural wonders still gave out juts out over the . The view is platform area was visited. The view a good stream of spores when gently a commanding one over the camping was over part of Cathedral Canyon, a squeezed. The rainforest section ended ground (in Little Capertee Creek) and it well-known access point to the top of Old soon after and we exited to the camping includes the Newnes Hotel where we Baldy, the Faberge Rocks and Mount ground at 1530. ⧫ Tricky. From where we stood it looked so close, maybe 200 m away. The reality was something else: we were still hundreds of metres above the valley floor and there References were at least three drainage networks and Taylor, Pete and Penney, Andrew. The Wolgan Guide, 1984, p. 25 & 61. Ben Bullen Topo Map. Top of Old Baldy several cliff lines between our location and GR 428 267. Map 5. the rain forest filled Cathedral Canyon. Carne, Joseph. Geological Map of the Capertee and No worries. It was 1258, arguably the Wolgan Valleys, 1901. James Ramsay Petrie (1851-1924) end of Skywalker Traverse and definitely and his brother William (b1845) were born in Fifeshire, Scotland. James was the manager of Pumpherston Oil time for lunch. Not often do we have a long Works, Mid Lothian, for 25 years. In 1910, the lunch but we did today: 27 relaxing Commonwealth Oil Corporation was formed in London to minutes. [A very brief lunch - Ed] Knowing work the vast oil shale deposits at Newnes. James was employed by the company as director and advisor in the that the way forward from here was manufacture and distillation of oil at the Newnes site. essentially downhill was a plus when it William Petrie was employed as a retort superintendent came to relaxing. and works manager. Ref: The Sydney Morning Herald, 22nd August 1924, p. 11 and Local History Library, To thread our way from the lunch site to Blackburn, West Lothian, Scotland. Ben Bullen and Mount the entry point to Cathedral Canyon, we Morgan Topo Maps, headwaters GR 438 290, junction GR walked in a semicircle beneath some 440 265. wonderful cliffs. Crossing the first of the Beagle Head is located 400 m south east from the locked gate off Wolgan River Trail at Newnes, but 280 m higher. drainage networks was under a delightful This huge undercut part of the top cliff face jutting out but tiny waterfall. At the base was a pool of over the Wolgan when viewed from the north east clear, very drinkable water. I dunked my resembled the head of a Beagle dog. Named by Brian Fox on a bush walk 28th July 2014. Mount Morgan Topo Map hat, and put it on full of water, savouring 438 256. the spine tingling as the icy water flowed Mount Tricky is a hill at an altitude of 925 m located on a down my back. Refreshing, stimulating and small ridge line 1.1 km north of Little Capertee Camping just what I needed as a pick me up. Ground at Newnes. David Noble called it Mount Tricky since it didn't have a name and was tricky to get off, Back to reality, we continued to make particularly in the dark! That was when he was walking in Overhangs along the way excellent progress and encountered another a westerly direction. Ben Bullen Topo Map, GR 424 274.

Winter 2016 www.bushwalkingnsw.org.au The Bushwalker | 5 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club The Northern Rivers Bushwalkers Club turns 40!

On the Milford Track, NZ"

Bill Boyd, celebratory walk to Salty President, Lagoon, so now in 2016 Northern Rivers Bushwalkers Club we will be revisiting Salty Lagoon. The old track no n 1976 a small group of bushwalkers, longer exists, so a little inspired apparently by a Sydney inventiveness is required, bushwalker David Brown who’d been but when has that ever transferred from Sydney to the far north stopped a bushwalking coast of NSW, started what was to become club? a long-lived and vibrant bushwalking club: I have only been a the Northern Rivers Bushwalkers Club. member for the last five From an initial meeting of some thirty years or so, and am in my people, several walks later in the year took third year as president. the incipient club to places we would revisit Nevertheless, I remain as time and again over the next four decades, much in awe of our club’s including our rainforest clad Nightcap vitality and energy as I Range and extensive coastal heaths. By late was when I joined. As I November of that year, a constitution had read the accounts of the been drafted and the club had its first early days, courtesy of the official walk, to Salty Lagoon in Broadwater 20th anniversary booklet compiled under the National Park. Enjoying the delights of New England (we do have rain) Thereafter, the club ran frequent day watchful eye of past walks and weekends to near and remote president Barbara places throughout the region. By 1996, on Worthington, I conclude that the club Last year, we recorded over 1600 attendees the 20th anniversary, there were records of remains an excellent example of a friendly at our events, representing an average of cycle rides, abseiling and kayak trips to add welcoming community of like-minded nine outings per member during the year. to the walking and camping. It was people, always supporting newcomers, And what are these events? They span considered appropriate in 1996 to run a regardless of age and ability. the range of bushwalking and hiking at all The club has grades, cycling, kayaking and abseiling. Our remained true to its regular weekly walks include return trips to purpose, to promote the Nightcap Range, especially around interest in bushwalking Rummery Park, Peates Mountain, the and related activities. waterfalls and the Nightcap track, and to We have a growing and its neighbouring hills. membership – 233 in We hiked the length of the Northern Rivers 2015! – and continue to coast, with several walks in the National see members both Parks of Bundjalung and Yurigir, and along volunteering to organise the Ballina-Byron-Brunswick coastal plain. I events and attending could go on. events (160 in the last The club also has a tradition of long year). Gone are the days weekends and longer trips - hiking visits to when the list of coming New England and Gibraltar (joint events events in our monthly with neighbouring bushwalking clubs), the newsletter was the final Mount Barney, Moogerah Lakes and Main say: events are offered Range area of SE , and so on. 40 continuously, and our or so members are currently heading over website listing has an to Poland to hike. New Zealand gets a look On the way up Mt Maroon impressive dynamism. in periodically. ⧫

6 | The Bushwalker www.bushwalkingnsw.org.au Winter 2016 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club Climbing Kosciuszko: Ayan Adak Because it is there!

than hiking it – so is a cable car to the base and takes about 10 they happily minutes. It offers wonderful views of blue- substitute the hued mountains far away, not to mention Kosciuszko in the quaint little alpine town of Thredbo. with the You can hike all the way from Thredbo as much higher well, but I would recommend taking the Carstensz pyramid cable car to spend most time on the top – if (or Puncak Jaya) in you are still eager after 14 km of walk, just Indonesia replacing walk down and enjoy the track. You will continents with also find the Eagle’s Nest Café at this continental shelves staring point – that reputes to be the (and thus trying to highest café in the entire continent. rob us hikers of our The walk is actually quite comfortable 15 seconds of and goes along steel frames laid on the fame). Nonetheless, track just until the end. While it makes the it is a good walk definitely easier, it does remove the experience to just natural feel, but then they stem the erosion go for the walk and of the sensitive ecosystem at the top. It also boast to those who hints at the steps taken by the proactive do not yet know tourism department here to popularize and The quad chair lift to the Eagles Nest that it is a climb to commercialize the hike and the result is a hillock in the quite apparent. I ended up walking with – for all those of you who backyard! hundreds of ramblers (including toddlers have made it to the My fascination with Kozzy (already tired and kids who even overtook the unhealthy Kosciuszko summit, you of typing the name) started last Winter me). At times, it actually felt like a merry might be asking amusedly when I had been to Thredbo, the nearest pilgrimage along a long sinuous track – I ‘What climbing?’ I do admit town, to see the winter snows of Australia. just missed the coffee and snacks counters – it’s not a climb exactly to the highest This part of the – the on the way :P point of Australia (2228 m), but more like a Snowy Mountains – receives ample snow; But the landscape is beautiful, albeit in a walk in the park. Actually a very long 13.5 naturally it is not possible to tread all the sparse way. There are no trees to be found km walk in the park for the return hike. way to the peak. But being the experience throughout the walk at this height, just Add in a few more kilometres of hurt-my- collector I am, I couldn’t resist the snaking shrubs and alpine flowers sporting knee-and-toes if you do not prefer the cable temptation of ticking off this nice little box romantic names such as the billy button, car that takes you to the start of the walk. (remember the tag of the Seven Summits, the mountain celery, alpine marsh Whatever, ignoring the kilometres, a mate!). So next summer, I was up with a marigold, mint bush, anemone buttercup summit is a summit – a badge to display motley group of friends to walk to the top and the silver snow. Then there are the proudly that you have ascended to one of and scream a-la-Hillary ‘Because it is there!’ occasional streams snaking around, the seven summits – an admirable club of We were blessed with a sunny day in an creating swampy bogs to beautiful blue conquering the highest peaks in each of the apparently cloudy - rainy week as the rivulets along the way. If you are lucky, you seven continents. Some avid enthusiasts summit walk is quite windy and cold and a might even spot a pygmy possum or a claim that pronouncing the peak is tougher warm sun suddenly seems so cheery. There bright hued flame robin enjoying the

Lake Cootapatamba The summit boardwalk on a fine day

Winter 2016 www.bushwalkingnsw.org.au The Bushwalker | 7 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

The yellow brick road to the Blue Lake altitude on a quiet day. And then there are course, place a tick on my coveted seven I finally reached the top after 3 hours of the boulders – piled, striated, cracked and summit check box. slow steady walking after infinite clicks on lying like age old sentients watching time The other moment of redemption that I my camera in a desperate attempt to hold pass by. Long ago, during the glacial ages, had here was on seeing a large lake on to all the raw beauty that was afloat. these were dragged on for miles by the fascinatingly called Cootapatamba. Like Reaching the top was my moment of moving glaciers – today, they lie pell-mell other alpine lakes here, it was once a cirque satisfaction. So what if it is way easier than all over the hills and create a beautiful, at – a hollow formed in the hills by glacial the Aconcagua? It is beautiful and deserves times surreal lunar landscape of empty erosion and later collecting water to form a a walk, just for the serenity, for the ancient plains and piling rocks, conquered a bit beautiful lake in the mountains (called a images it evokes in the mind, for the sonata more every winter, when melting snow tarn). It was nothing significant – just a of the wind and the waters under a smiling seeps into the cracks, freezes inside, small body of water, but one that magically sun. Yes, it deserves a walk just because it is expands and cracks and splinters these to changed colours from moss green to muddy there! ⧫ smaller pieces. blue and then sapphire blue as you walked To be honest such an expanse moved me, on and changed the angle of viewing it. I and for a brief moment, I went astray from think what fascinated me once again was its Fact File: the normal path to climb a rocky hill afar, antiquated past and the immense changes ● Nearest town is Thredbo, 6-7 hours seeking my solitude away from the in the landscape it must have seen once. from Sydney madding crowds. It felt ethereal to imagine For the record keepers, yes, it is the highest ● Alternately stay at Jindabyne (and enjoy this same place hundred and thousands of altitude lake in Oz. The name is, as you its famed lake at dusk after the walk) years ago – left alone to itself, all so quiet would have guessed aboriginal in origin. which is a 30 minute drive away except for the gushing streams and (Talking of names, the peak itself was ● Once done with the walk, keep a day for whistling winds. And yet it opened up to named by a Polish explorer, Paul Strzelecki, Charlottes Pass, another small spot the ancient aboriginals who claimed that who decided to name it rather arduously about 30 minutes from Jindabyne. It this was where their spirits lived and after the Polish national hero Kosciusko – I offers multiple walks in these hills: long danced in the bare and raw beauty of this am confident any aboriginal name would ones include hikes to the Blue Lake via endlessness. For hundreds of years, these have been equally tongue twisted and the Yellow Brick Road (10 km return) tribes have also been congregating here to heavily multi-syllabic). and an alternate route to the feast on the Bogong moths in summer and The way to the end is scenic all along – Kosciuszko (20 km return). There are to conduct their spiritual rites. It took some just before the summit, another dirt track numerous short walks too – we took time to break my reverie of ancient joins it from Charlottes Pass and would be one to Mount Stilwell and were aborigines, cave dwelling here and dancing an excellent choice for those wanting a rewarded with a beautiful, moderate with their primeval spirits under the natural feel under their sole instead of the walk but with far fewer people, allowing starlight sky. I had to walk along and of steel grilles. us to enjoy the hike on our own.

8 | The Bushwalker www.bushwalkingnsw.org.au Winter 2016 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club The Grand Hinchinbrook Island Expedition The top of Zoe Falls and Zoe Bay High Barrett, Narrabri Bushwalkers

he Hinchinbrook Battalion loosing their soul. The Entertainment awe-inspiring massifs of Minerva Hills NP. assembled in the Crossing Officer (EO) produced an appropriate The DW chose a pleasant spot for lunch Theatre car park and was poem, Plan XYZ. adjacent to the artificial lake at Clermont, underway soon after 7 am. The company split into two platoons in well below the level of the Great Flood of Sherman the Chevvie and the tin the morning (Plan D), with the Tukka 1916 which carried houses off their high tent led the convoy to Mungindi, Wallah (TW), FS and The Captain (TC) stumps and drowned nearly 70 people. pulling into the Designated Worrier's (DW) mounting a brief expedition further Although another flood did not appear favourite smoko spot, carefully chosen upstream and deciding reluctantly that imminent, DW kept his eye out, just in above flood level, beside the Barwon River. Battleship Spur (600m ascent) could be left case. The convoy proceeded without incident to until they return for the Carnarvon Great The convoy pulled into Belyando reach Injune Caravan Park in the late Walk, an 87 km circuit around the upper Crossing about 4:30 pm. Belyando has little afternoon. rim of Carnarvon Gorge, opened in about to recommend it but everything you need. The sky descended as the Forward Scout 2009. They followed the First Platoon A flat spot was found for the tin tent and (FS) drove Neville the Navara towards down the gorge, taking a brief side trip up the second platoon headed for the softer Carnarvon Gorge the next morning, the ever-narrowing Boowinda Gorge and looking ground, setting up tents adjacent to followed by the tin-tenters. Intermittent taking in the art work of Cathedral Cave the septic tank outfall. CC headed in the light drizzle led to the adoption of Plan B, and the Art Gallery before scampering up opposite direction. whereby the features nearest the mouth of Boolimba Bluff at the the gorge (Mickeys Creek slot gorge, Baloon mouth of the gorge. Cave and the Nature Trail and Rock Pool) The company were visited first. Intermittent heavy rain regrouped in the then forced the adoption of Plan C, morning, with one of whereby those without a tin tent glamped the Glamping in a safari tent at Takarakka Resort. Brigade rejoining the As soon as the rain lifted the next Tin-Tenters who morning, the full company was off up the preceded Neville for spectacular main gorge, visiting the Moss the run up the Garden, Amphitheatre, and Wards Canyon, Carnarvon and en route to camping at Big Bend. About 20 Gregory Highways. creek crossings are involved and DW and FS Smoko was taken just each had an unscheduled swim. The Chief north of Springsure, of Construction's (CC) Scarpas bit the dust, overlooked by the

At the mouth of the gorge

Winter 2016 www.bushwalkingnsw.org.au The Bushwalker | 9 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club The assault on Charters Towers was underway by 9:30 the next morning and reconnoitring concluded by early afternoon. The town centre is dominated by beautiful old heritage buildings, dating from the discovery of gold in 1871. The Tin Tent plus two took off for Mutarnee via Townsville the next morning. The remaining four piled into Neville for a quick run up Towers Hill to gawk at the view, ramble over the mining and military remnants, review the historical display, and annoy the rock wallabies. Neville then headed north-west past the tiny Dalrymple NP, which appeared a pleasant spot, or at least that part of it not obscured by caravans and campers. A dirt road wander through the hills led to Hidden Valley (think Deliverance). Fortunately, Sherman was intercepted coming the other way before reaching Hidden Valley, avoiding gunshots, with the reunited convoy taking in waterfalls, lookouts and an historical bridge in Paluma NP before descending the range to bivouac at the delightful Crystal The cliffs lining the gorge Creek. The place is overrun by rampant scrub turkeys which ambushed the FS’s Oncoming walkers assured the company shelter erected from two tarps by CC and pack, successfully destroying six of his eight that wet feet would be the order of the day, DW. packets of soup. as there were numerous small, and some An expedition was mounted to Nina large, creeks to cross, both muddy and Peak the next morning. DW remained at he Tin Tank plus two then headed to rocky. The intrepid NBC members made it the pass waiting for news of impending TIngham and Lucinda, while the through dry footed, however, and thought cyclones from newly arrived passing Waterfall Brigade inspected the rock pools of Stuart. backpackers. The remainder ascended the and waterfalls of Crystal Creek before side- This was the longest section between 312 m peak, pausing for views over the tripping via the delightful Jourama Falls camps, being 10.5 km, requiring a expanse of mangroves to the north, with and Wallaman Falls, the highest single drop refreshing swim near the Banksia Creek long estuarine fingers snaking in from permanent waterfall in Australia and a crossing, in conjunction with lunch. Four of Missionary Bay, and over Nina Bay, with starting point for the Wet Tropics Great the party added a side-trip to the pretty Mt Bowen and its allies hulking behind it. Walk (there’s a thought). Banksia Bay, where they obtained their first The views from the top were well worth the Phil the Boatman was at the Lucinda full view of the magnificent Mt Bowen effort. jetty at 9:45 am the next morning for the (1121 m) and surrounding peaks, all 20 minute ride to George's Point on the basking in the sunshine. Meanwhile, CC he assault party descended to the pass southern tip of Hinchinbrook Island. and the DW forged ahead to mark out the Tto relieve DW from his backpacker- The company straggled up the beach for bivouac area at Little Ramsay Bay, next to a watching duties and returned to camp, with an hour and through the rainforest for an couple of tired backpackers laden with UHT the exception of FS, who checked out the hour to Mulligan Falls campground, with milk and canned food. track ahead to its terminal pickup point. the falls roaring in the background. The He returned to camp somewhat sodden company worked its way uphill to the meeting of the Mt Bowen Brigade (TC, some hours later, then wandered off and highest point of the track, 260 m then ATW and FS) that evening resulted in plucked two black bream from the lagoon. dropped down to cross Zoe Creek above the the adoption of Plan E whereby, due to a TC picked up another nice trevally. All were beautiful Zoe Falls, with views over the mild onset of knackedness, and in view of returned unharmed and uneaten. delightful Zoe Bay. The falls plunge into a the task ahead, it was decided to forego the The rain and wind settled in in earnest crystal clear pool, made for swimming. planned assault on Mt Bowen and opt for a overnight, with the shelters proving Again, it was up the beach briefly the day walk up Warrawilla Creek which leads invaluable for packing up next morning. next morning and into the rainforest. to the saddle and ultimately the summit. The company wandered off early to find the This proved to be an inspired pickup boat already waiting amongst the choice, as the mountains unfolded mangroves. With a gale roaring down the ahead and the rose into Hinchinbrook Channel which, on the view behind. After gaining about premise of a fine, sunny day, was to be the 400 m elevation rock-scrambling grand finale of the Hinchinbrook up the creek, it was time to turn experience, John the Boatman, bless his around and head back to the Little cotton socks, elected to head for Port Ramsay Bay campsite. Hinchinbrook, near Cardwell, where a mate TC and FS took off on another bundled four into his wagon and drove excursion the next morning, them to Lucinda. Port Hinchinbrook is an backtracking to Banksia Beach en enduring monument to Keith Williams and route to Agnes Island, supposedly Queensland’s White Shoe Brigade, with the joined to the mainland by a sand canal estate silted to the gunwales, making spit exposed at low tide. The tide it an environmental and developmental was still up too much to cross after disaster. TC and FS took one for the team waiting an hour and a half, so they and remained with John for the scenic tour retreated to pick up their gear at up Hinchinbrook Channel, visibility near Little Ramsay and followed the zilch. others to Nina Bay camping area. And after a few more nights of camping, They arrived to find a magnificent a happy return to Narrabri was made. ⧫ North from Nina Peak

10 | The Bushwalker www.bushwalkingnsw.org.au Winter 2016 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Katherine Gorge - where every ripple has added significance

Kelvin Montagu and Liz Saunders, Springwood Bushwalking Club

train, a plane, a 4WD and a The Katherine River drains the back of Our approach to the start of the gorge helicopter – to go from Springwood Arnhem land plateau before cutting its way system was marked by fingers of to the headwaters of the Katherine off the plateau, and in the process creating escarpment outcrops intercepting the river. River in less than 24 hours. What the 13 Gorges. Exiting the gorges, the river A highlight was a large brolga perched on could possibly go wrong? flows past Katherine then joins with the top of one of the outcrops. The change in Like all of our trips (not) everything Flora river to become the Douglas Daly and river morphology was distinct with the went without a hitch. Less than 23 hours discharge into the Timor sea. river becoming more constrained. A after hopping on a train at Springwood the The trip proper started with two days benefits of this was a quickening of flow five of us were watching the choppers paddling above the gorge system. The river and some fun rapids. During big wets this disappear and silence descend. A short walk is not what you would expect of one of a area above the Gorge system becomes an brought us to the sandy backs of the upper plateau. River morphology in the 30 km inland sea as the narrow rock entrance to Katherine River. This was the culmination segment was a classical flood plain. Long the gorges system constrains the flow. The of considerable planning: to convince NT channels are fringed on both banks by water level in April was a little more Parks and Wildlife to give us a special natural levies dominated by large manageable. permit while the lower gorges were still paperbarks and pandanus. Literally metres The upper gorge system is a dramatic closed, to get the “goldilocks” water levels away from the river the vegetation drops rock landscape. An almost unimaginable (not to high and not to low, just right while dramatically in height and becomes tropical amount of wet season water is funnelled booking flights months in advance), savannah. The river was an enjoyable into a very constrained bedrock landscape. arranging access to the upper reaches, and flatwater paddle with long pools At times the entire flow of the river is of course flying with Jetstar and their punctuated with rock races. The bird life forced through a 3 m gap. The result - a history of cancelling flights. was prolific. water sculpture on a grand scale - worthy of Every ripple has added a full days wandering and exploring. Away significance when paddling from the river the fissured nature of the in the Territory. Salties are rock landscape creates an interesting not known this far mosaic of grassland and occasional pockets upstream but over the past of trees. 40 years since wholesale hunting stopped they have reparing for the trip I had indicated crept further and further that we would have fish one night, upstream. That didn’t stop Pand hence we could pack one less us; it just meant some dinner. This was treated with some caution around the water, scepticism, until a lure was thrown in and especially at night. first cast got a sooty grunter. A few more Above the gorges we only followed and dinner was sorted out. had to contend with With pack rafts the trip from gorge 13 ‘freshies’. On previous pre- down to gorge 9 was a breeze. The major toad trips many had been portage around gorges 13 -11 was a spotted. On this trip we saw pleasant walk and the brute of a portage just the one solitary ‘freshy’. into gorge 9 was made easy by the aerial The impact of cane toads on capability of the pack rafts. As a result, we Friends and relations freshwater crocs, monitors had plenty of time to explore the and dragons was noticeable. escarpment around gorge 11 and 12.

Winter 2016 www.bushwalkingnsw.org.au The Bushwalker | 11 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club From gorge 11 the river is a bit more paddle friendly with some enjoyable white water as the river descends and the walls of the gorge rise. A compulsory portage past Eagle Rock and into gorge 9 brought us into our spectacular campsite for a couple of nights. The benign river conditions hid the tragedy of the rafting river guide who drowned 'trialling' whitewater rafting in the early 1990s. The moods of the river can be very different. Camping for a couple of nights in gorge 9 allowed us time to watch the changes in colour of the gorge walls as the light varied. It also allowed for another walk about away from the river and some exploration of the country and billabongs away from the main gorge system. This is fascinating but harsh country. The upper Katherine forms an important traditional route between the Kakadu flood plains, up the South Alligator river and over into the Katherine river. As a result there is considerable rock art in the area. From gorge 9 down most rapids are paddled with each gorge having a different feel. From waterfall cascading down, to rainforest pockets, rock overhangs and walls and delightful beaches. But each ripple was having extra significance with the lower gorges (1-3) still closed for 'salty' checking and removal. Camp on the bank of the river A pack rafting trip is not a pack rafting trip without a walk in or out. As we cheated with the flight in this left the walk out from gorge 4 (Smith Rock). An early walkout avoided the heat of the day and meant we were out by 10 am. But after seven days in the upper reaches there was the shock of running into the day trippers on the way out.

Portaging is easiy with packrafts

The contrast between the river and the surroundings

Cumberland Plain Walkers Shoalhaven Bushwalkers Join a Club! Fairfield Bushwalking Club South Coast Bushwalking Club Bushwalking Clubs are established across NSW Geehi Bushwalking Club Southern Highlands Bushwalkers and ACT. Goulburn Bushwalkers Club Span Outdoors Visit our website to find your nearest club at: Happy Wanderers Springwood Bushwalking Club www.bushwalkingnsw.org.au/clubs-location/ Hill View Bushwalkers Suboir United Bushwalkers Hunter Area Walkabout Club Sutherland Bushwalking Club Illawarra Ramblers Club Sydney Bush Walkers Member Clubs of Inverell Bushwalking Club Sydney Christian Bushwalkers Ku-ring-gai Bushwalkers Activity & Social Group Sydney University Bushwalkers Bushwalking NSW Inc: Lake Macquarie Bushwalkers Tamworth Bushwalking & Canoe Club All Nations Bushwalkers Macquarie Explorers Club The Bush Club Armidale Bushwalking Club Manly Spit Bushwalking Club Tumut & District Bushwalkers Inc Bankstown Bushwalking Club Canoe Club Tumut Valley Canoe Club Barrier Rangers Mountain Devils Bushwalking Club Up and Downers Bushwalking Club Batemans Bay Bushwalkers Mudgee Bushwalking Club Upper Blue Mountains Bushwalking Club Blue Mountains Conservation Society Bushwalking Murray Valley Bushwalkers Upper Lachlan Bushwalkers Club Narrabri Bushwalking Club Wanderers Bushwalking Club Blue Steel Dash National Parks Assn of NSW Warringah Bushwalking Club Brindabella Bushwalking Club National Parks Assn of the ACT Watagan Wanderers Outdoors Club Newcastle Bushwalking Club WEA Ramblers Sydney Canberra Bushwalking Club Newcastle Ramblers Bushwalking Club Weekday Walkers Catholic Bushwalking Club Nimbin Bushwalkers Club Wingecarribee Bushies Central West Bushwalking Club Northern Rivers Bushwalkers Club Yarrawood Bushwalking Club Clarence Valley Bushwalkers NSW Nordic Ski Club Yatra Bushwalking Club Inc Coast and Mountain Walkers of NSW Outdoor Club of NSW YHA Social & Outdoor Club - Sydney Region

12 | The Bushwalker www.bushwalkingnsw.org.au Winter 2016 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club With all river trips their complexion is very much determined by water levels. At the end of April and early May we enjoyed a river with reasonable flow but nearing the bottom of the range for being able to paddle most of the rapids. The unusual dry season weather also made the walking pleasant, even if Anne did find it a bit cold due to a last minute choice between her sleeping bag and “The Luminaries” (a good read Anne?). As a result, it was a very relaxed and enjoyable trip on the river in contrast to other times we have done this trip. Having previously lived in the Territory, paddling the Katherine was one of our favourite trips. The first time we paddled the upper Katherine was 20 years ago in a Canadian with a four and six year-old. Returning with pack rafts (and no kids) made for a considerably easier trip. However, things had changed. The combination of 'salties' creeping further upstream and a more risk-adverse Parks Management meant the lower gorges were closed until well into the dry season, cane toads had decimated the reptile populations, and changes in access made vehicle access difficult. But what a stunning trip, there are not many trips that we have done three times and would still do again. ⧫ Sunlight on the gorge

Rapids - adrenaline territory!

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嘀愀爀椀漀甀猀 爀漀氀攀猀 愀渀搀 攀砀挀椀琀椀渀最 漀瀀瀀漀爀琀甀渀椀琀椀攀猀 昀漀爀 礀漀甀 琀漀 最椀瘀攀 戀愀挀欀 琀漀 琀栀攀 䌀漀洀洀甀渀椀琀礀⸀

眀 眀 眀 ⸀戀 眀 爀猀⸀漀 爀最 ⸀愀甀 The climb out at the end of the trip

Winter 2016 www.bushwalkingnsw.org.au The Bushwalker | 13 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Catacombs of Temple Creek, just down from the Temple of Doom!

Hugh Speirs, Blue Mts Bushrangers

Map: Cullen Bullen

E parked in the Lower Vestibule (en route to Temple of Doom) at GR 321 095, walking by 0915. Headed eastwards to the end of the enchanting pagoda cluster, then climbed to pick up the bike track which leads upwards and to the Wolgan LO. This proved to be the same one we found last week. It seemed to aim in the direction we wanted, so we followed it to 327 095 where it came onto the old access road where we’d

14 | The Bushwalker www.bushwalkingnsw.org.au Winter 2016 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

parked last week. 20 m to the left the bike We bush-pushed down for 10 min to the track again headed off SE and we followed first level, but soon realised it was much it for 150 m or so. It seemed an appropriate further down to the creek. We then spot to head off-track down towards the descended through thick ferns, heading Temple Ck. ... generally NE as we looked for The Finding a descent point wasn't obvious Catacombs (see The Gardens of Stone Catacombs of and we spent some time on a broad National Park and beyond, Book 6, Michael headland looking longingly into some Keats and Brian Fox, - thanks gents). It inaccessible fern-filled depths surrounded wasn’t easy going. Either the ferns became by vertical cliffs. Harold found a great slot, higher or I found a lot of holes. That was narrow, deep, but he thought it a possible possible, there’s no way of really telling way down. To quote Harold, as he licked his where you’re putting your feet. The trick is lips, “If the Bush Club blokes were here to get someone else to go first and follow they’d be down this like a rat down a drain- them closely. If they disappear it’s usually a pipe!!” We moved on a bit. hole!! Waist-high ferns became chest-high, then head-high - even on me. GPS checkings showed we were close. We’d actually come perhaps 50 m too far. Harold scouted brilliantly and found the winding tunnels and climbs, and tunnels, and more tunnels, that make this spot a challenge (for anyone around 2 m tall and 107 kg of ageing elaphantine sporting a back-pack), and a lot of fun!! grace on a path of destruction See the pile of huge fallen rocks, (difficult to see from where we’d been further up the slope), the crushing structure of the ‘Catacombs’ - and the series of ‘tunnels’ hidden beneath and between them. No, not visible. This collection of massive fallen rocks leaves just enough access beneath them. One scrambles on hands and knees (and belly once or twice, in the mode of genuflection). Then one is inside, so to speak.

lmost at the end we came to an enclosed space that seemed to have Ano outlet. My first sight of it said to Harold pops out me, ‘We’ll have to re-trace our steps (or our belly wormings)!’. We looked upwards to our right where a large rock shelf hung. No way. But still there was one way, to our left, Harold looking concerned: a hidden small opening to a short tunnel can Huey manage this? that took us out. We looked at where we were - we were now at the S end of the tunnels. Standing room inside We’d been here earlier and thought it couldn’t be the right place to enter. It was 1300 and over time for lunch. And what a Lunch Spot!! After lunch we needed to find our way out of the gully. We looked carefully at a slot Harold had discovered at the top. He’d been through it, but was obviously doubtful that I could do it without considerable difficulty. And if there’s one place your geriatric doesn’t want to find considerable difficulty it’s in a 30m deep slot which is barely wide enough to squeeze through and having several near vertical climbs without B USHWALKING NSW footholds or walking frame availability (another would be when belly-worming Subs cribe to The B us hwalker through subterranean tunnels!!). Keep up with a ll the news a nd developm ents The upshot was that we wended our way ha ppening in the NSW bushwa lking scene for back up the way we’d descended. On only $ 2 0 per yea r. This is to cover posting a nd reaching the old access track we followed ha ndling: the m a ga z ine itself is free. that back to the car, the long way round but Send your na m e a nd a ddress a nd cheque or it afforded us a good way to stretch the legs m oney order to B us hwalking NSW Inc, PO Box 9 0 4 , Da rlinghurst, NSW 13 0 0 . Ma ke out. ⧫ the cheque or m oney order pa ya ble to B us hwalking NSW. [Highly edited to get it to fit - Roger Caffin] Plea se indica te which issue you wa nt your subscription to sta rt with. We don’ t wa nt to duplica te copies you a lrea dy ha ve.

Winter 2016 www.bushwalkingnsw.org.au The Bushwalker | 15 Pic d'Anie, GR10, French Pyrenees. Photo: Roger Caffin