Lost Dutchman Mystery: Tread a Dead Man's Trail APRIL 2007 ‘Killer’ Climbs | Slot Canyon Tours | Superstition Hikes ADVENTURE GUIDE get out there 12 Thrill Trips april 2007 8 Passing Through Paria A photographer learns deep lessons in life’s passage through the narrows. TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACK DYKINGA Guide: Three Slot Canyon Tours 18 Dead Man’s Tale A writer follows the hot trail of a cold case: The strange death of Adolph Ruth. BY JOHN ANNERINO Guide: Three Great Superstition Hikes contents 26 Teetering Atop Browns Peak Four Peaks climb tests rusty skills. BY BOB KERRY / PHOTOGRAPHS BY PETER NOEBELS Guide: Three Challenging Climbs 32 PORTFOLIO Forceful Foregrounds The secret to great photography — it’s right in front of you. TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY GARY LADD 42 HISTORY Feminine Frontier Ranch wives weathered hardship to tame the West. BY DAVE ESKES 46 NATURE Hidden Hoppers Grasshoppers perfect the art of camouflage. BY JOHN ALCOCK / PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARTY CORDANO 48 THE LIGHTER SIDE The King and I A kitschy lamp lights up our writer's inner bachelor. BY ROGER NAYLOR / ILLUSTRATION BY BRIAN STAUFFER Departments 2 DEAR EDITOR 3 ALL WHO WANDER Drawing inspiration from a tragic friendship. 4 VIEWFINDER A-MACE-ING GRACE Uncovering secrets of those darned canyons. A climber rappels down the subsidiary tower of The Mace, 5 TAKING THE OFF-RAMP one of Sedona’s most popular Arizona oddities, attractions and pleasures. arizonahighways.com climbs, ranked a difficult-but- online doable 5.9 on the Yosemite 50 ALONG THE WAY Arizona is a land of excellent adventures. Whether Decimal System. MARC MUENCH FRUITFULThe dog’s FUN a Kids dead of duck.all ages dash for sweet treats during the “Fruit Scramble” event at the 4th Annual Natoni Horse Race you’re a desert dweller, a river rat or a mountain goat, FRONT COVER The Dragoon 52on the HIKE Navajo OF Indian THE Reservation. MONTH See story, page 16. TOM BEAN there’s a holy host of activities to appease daredevils. Mountains’ 5.10-rated Warpaint FRONTAn ambleCOVER along Navajo the hoop San dancer Pedro Tyrese River Jensen, reveals 7, competes in This month, unleash your adrenaline with our Great climb offers next to nothing the 16thsome Annual melting World remains Championship of the SpanishHoop Dance Empire. Contest held at the Adventures Guide. Visit arizonahighways.com by way of hand- or footholds, Heard Museum in downtown Phoenix. See story, page 32. JEFF KIDA and click on our April “Trip Planner.” requiring even experienced 54 BACK ROAD ADVENTURE climbers, such as Lara Wilkinson BACK COVER A hiker amounts to a Tiny Tim on the window Rim-country road to Hellsgate HUMOR The sound of Sunset Crater (pictured), to use ropes and "sill" of Los Gigantes Buttes Arch near the Lukachukai Mountains Wilderness makes a heck of a ride. gives our writer cause for fury. be on belay. MARC MUENCH on the Navajo Indian Reservation. See story, page 24. TOM TILL n To order a print of this photograph, see information on opposite page. WEEKEND GETAWAY There may not be BACK COVER Receding water gold in them thar hills, but the Superstition and clay deposits along the Paria Mountains make for a mother lode of fun. River, a Colorado River tributary, Photographic Prints Available reflect the colors of the sky and EXPERIENCE ARIZONA Plan a trip Paria Canyon’s sandstone walls. n Prints of some photographs are available for with our calendar of events. See story, page 8. JACK DYKINGA purchase, as designated in captions. To order, call toll- n To order a print of this photograph, free (866) 962-1191 or visit www.magazineprints.com. see information on opposite page. Flipped Out by Image I have been reading your magazine for a good number of Aravaipa Apache Indian Chief years now, and although I have thought about dropping a APRIL 2007 VOL. 83, NO. 4 Eskiminzin with two of his children in 1880, nine years after his short- who wander all note over the years, I have never taken the time. Recently, Publisher WIN HOLDEN Tragically, Whitman’s urgent appeal to lived friendship with Camp Grant Editor PETER ALESHIRE I saw something that was so obvious I figured no one Army Lt. Royal Whitman began. establish a reservation was returned Managing Editor RANDY SUMMERLIN would pick up on it. On pages 36 and 37 of your January Web/Research Editor SALLY BENFORD FROM THE PAPERS OF JOHN CLUM, unopened six weeks later because a clerk 2007 issue, you have printed the picture backward. All Book Division Editor BOB ALBANO 1860-1975, UNIVERSITY OF ARIZONA noted he had failed to attach a required of the writing on the walls is mirrored. So either the Books Associate Editor EVELYN HOWELL LIBRARY, SPECIAL COLLECTIONS summary of the contents. Special Projects Editor JOBETH JAMISON negative was reversed or the photo was taken in a mirror. Editorial Administrator NIKKI KIMBEL By then, raids by other bands of Indians Which is it? Editorial Assistant PAULY HELLER had enraged the population of nearby dear editor —Jeri Sullivan, Hull, MA Director of Photography PETER ENSENBERGER Tucson, prompting many newspapers and citizens to call for Photography Editor JEFF KIDA Good catch. We flopped the image and somehow didn’t notice, despite the extermination of the Apaches. When raiders killed several Art Director BARBARA GLYNN DENNEY all the magnifying glasses here. We definitely have the sharpest-eyed readers in the world. Kind of intimidating. local citizens, many insisted on flimsy evidence that the Deputy Art Director SONDA ANDERSSON PAPPAN Art Assistant DIANA BENZEL-RICE culprits had come from Eskiminzin’s band. Loved Lindy It wasn’t until 35 years later that I got to Map Designer KEVIN KIBSEY Indian fighter William Ouray raised a mixed group I loved the Charles Lindbergh story experience it firsthand. With my first Production Director MICHAEL BIANCHI consisting of about 50 settlers and 92 Tohono O’odham Indians Promotions Art Director RONDA JOHNSON (“Lindy’s Luck,” January ’07), seeing his steps off the plane, I fell in love with your Webmaster VICKY SNOW (then called Papago), longtime enemies of the Apaches. They perspective of things from the air. I have a state. My subscription keeps the wonder of Director of Sales & Marketing KELLY MERO marched through the night and fell upon Eskiminzin’s camp at hand-written letter dated 1927 from him to Arizona in my heart and soul till the next dawn, quickly slaughtering more than 140 people — almost all Circulation Director HOLLY CARNAHAN my great-grandfather, Samuel C. Lancaster, time I can visit. Keep up the great work. of them women and children because the warriors were off Finance Director BOB ALLEN chief engineer of the Historic Columbia —Bonnie Sturm, Cobleskill, NY hunting. Ouray’s group sold 27 children taken prisoner as by Peter Aleshire, editor Information Technology CINDY BORMANIS arizonahighways.com River Highway in Oregon, after Lindbergh slaves in Mexico. @ observed the beauty of that area from the Didn’t Care for January Cover Inquiries or orders Toll-free: (800) 543-5432 When Whitman learned of the attack, he rushed to Phoenix area or outside the U.S. (602) 712-2000 A Bolt of Courage air. What a thrill it must have been for him I just received the January 2007 issue of Or visit arizonahighways.com Eskiminzin’s camp, where he found a scene of devastation. He editor to see all of the scenic treasures in Arizona. Arizona Highways. The cover stopped me Drawing inspiration tended the wounded and oversaw burial details, hoping For Corporate or Trade Sales Dolores Field (602) 712-2045 —Ellnora Young, Roseburg, OR in my tracks — in a negative way. Over Eskiminzin would bring in his warriors. When the warriors Letters to the Editor [email protected] from a tragic friendship the past couple of issues, I have noted 2039 W. Lewis Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85009 filtered into the camp, they “. indulged in their expressions of Thank Goodness for Uncle Bill a few photographs that were not up to grief, too wild and terrible to be described,” wrote Whitman. Governor A few years ago, our uncle, Bill Rankhorn, the standards I am used to seeing in the TOO OFTEN, HISTORY IS A DARK, towering monsoon storm Only Eskiminzin’s friendship with Whitman now prevented JANET NAPOLITANO who lives in Tucson, arranged for Arizona magazine. Please note: The Christmas Director, Department of Transportation of heartbreak and tragedy. But sometimes if you’re lucky, a the grief-crazed warriors from extracting a bloody revenge. Highways to be sent to my sister Margaret (December ’06) issue was breathtaking, VICTOR M. MENDEZ shaft of sunlight will lance the thunderheads. When news of the attack reached Washington, President and me, here in England. What an eye- however. The January 2007 issue gives ARIZONA TRANSPORTATION BOARD Consider the singular friendship of 1st Lt. Royal Emerson Ulysses S. Grant threatened to impose martial law unless opener to such a fantastic state. The me the impression that corners are being Chairman James W. Martin Whitman and Apache Chief Eskiminzin, a gleam of light in the Tucson authorities tried Ouray and his group. A jury acquitted Vice Chairman Joe Lane photography is just amazing and the cut. I need not point out anything further Members S.L. Schorr, Delbert Householder, otherwise dispiriting tale of the Camp Grant Massacre. the raiders after 19 minutes of deliberation. articles are all interesting, showing a than the front cover. I am guessing digital Robert M. Montoya, Felipe Andres Zubia, Whitman, a Civil War hero and a principled abolitionist, The Tucson newspapers howled for Whitman’s dismissal, William J.