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2 Beijing: 20 Favorite Moments

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3 Beijing: 20 eijing is a city of contrasts, rushing boldly into the future. BModern skyscrapers spring up in neighborhoods of traditional

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i e peaceful sections is Juyongguan, a (y 010/6438-4862). recently restored section only an 7 Houhai Lake. Rent a boat and Enjoy the privilege with Zhongshan Park hour from Beijing. Badaling is one glide past the city’s quaintest of the more dramatic sections of the (though touristy) areas. The banks Great Wall, but the number of visi- Dong Chang’an Jie are overflowing with cafes, bars, tors can be daunting. The bus trip TIAN’ANMEN and the odd curio shop, but back SQUARE from Beijing takes an hour. alleys are still ripe for exploration. 4 Commune at the Great Wall. 8 Drum Tower (Gu Lou). The upper The Commune assembles the work Qianmen Dong Dajie chamber has replicas of traditional C

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e Offer up your prayers as you sit with through the back alleys of Beijing. The the monks in one of Beijing’s most ZHUSHIKOU CHONGWEN best preserved can be found around Tiantan Lu colorful temples. Don’t miss the the alley of Nan Luogu Xiang. There’s 18m (59-ft.) statue of Maitreya (the also a memorable bike ride along future Buddha) carved from a single Temple of Heaven Park the lakes. Rentals are available at Lu piece of white sandalwood. Bei Wei Cycle China, 12 Jingshan Dong Lu 6 The Hub of the 798 Dashanzi (y 010/6402-5653). For guided Nan Wei Lu Art District (798 Dashanzi Yishu trips, contact the Beijing Hutong Qu Zhongxin). Local artists set up Tourist Agency (y 010/8067-2471). the area’s first studios and galleries 0 Forbidden City (Gu Gong). This here in 2001. Take a look at 798 720,000sq.-m (7.75-million-sq.-ft.) 02_344255 ch01.qxp 4/23/08 9:12 PM Page 4

4 palace, on the north side of Tia’an- men Square, is a complex of red- walled buildings and pavilions, topped by a sea of glazed vermilion tiles. It is the largest and most intricate imperial palace in China. ! Loving Life Massage Center (Lesheng Mangren Baojian Anmo Zhongxin). Indulge in affordable Favorite Moments Favorite full-body and foot massages on the second floor of the Donghua Hotel (32 Dengshikou Xi Jie, y 010/6525- 7531, ext. 3201).

Beijing: 20 @ Wangfujing. This area has the best pedestrian-friendly mix of his- Practicing tai chi at the Temple of toric sites, museums, kitchy Chinese Heaven. shops, and outposts of Western consumerism, from Nike to Tiffany. slick makeover, but still offers the Gongmei Dasha (200 Wangfujing same traditional tea and snacks, Dajie) is a jade store that sells the plus afternoon musical perform- real thing. Small Eats Street ances with traditional Chinese (Wangfujing Xiaochi Jie) is home to instruments. (Building 3, Zhengyang our favorite street food. The lamb Shichang Qianmen Xi Dajie). skewers are yummy. & Liulichang. Named for a factory # Ritan Office Building (Ritan that once churned out glazed roof Shangwu Lou). We always find tile, this is a charming labyrinth of great bargains in this collection of alleys brimming with life—still much some 70 humble shops, where Marc as it was at the turn of the century. Jacobs jackets and Diane von Look for Rongbao Zhai (Liulichang Furstenburg dresses cram the racks Xi Jie), one of the most renowned (15A Guanghua Lu). art shops in China. MasterCard $ Tia’anmen (Gate of Heavenly * Panjiayuan. Old photos, folk art, Peace). Above the central door and traditional minority costumes are hangs a famous portrait of Mao found in the bustling stalls of Beijing’s flanked by inscriptions that read best antiques and curio market. “Long Live the People’s Republic of ( Qian Dian (Hall of Prayer for China” (left) and “Long Live the Good Harvests). The current build- Great Unity of the Peoples of the ing is a replica of the 1420 original, World” (right). Climb to the dais which burned to the ground. The above the portrait for a view along circular wooden hall, the centerpiece the former Imperial Way. Enjoy the privilege with Enjoy of the Temple of Heaven, is perhaps % Chairman Mao Memorial Hall the most recognizable emblem of (Mao Zhuxi Jinnian Tang). In the traditional Chinese architecture. center of Tia’anmen Square is the ) Temple of Heaven (Tiantan final resting place of the Great Gongyuan). Just after dawn, regular Helmsman, as he’s known. Mao was parkgoers practice tai chi, kung fu, chairman of the party from 1945 or ballroom dancing in this huge until his death in 1976. park. Birds and crickets chirp in ^ Laoshe Teahouse. This tradi- their cages as their owners take tional teahouse has undergone a them for an early morning walk. 02_344255 ch01.qxp 4/23/08 9:12 PM Page 5

5 Beijing: The Best Beijing: The Best Lodging

Bamboo Garden Hotel. This Rooms are spacious and outfitted courtyard guesthouse is the place with DVD players and flatscreen TVs. to live out your Chinese emperor 99 Jinbao Jie y 010/8522-1888. fantasies. Red lacquer walkways Ritz-Carlton, Financial Street. lead to rooms decked out in Ming Lodging Though it caters to a business clien- dynasty style. 24 Xiaoshiqiao. tele, the Ritz is rife with homey y 010/5852-0088. touches. The beds are the comfiest Commune at the Great Wall. in town. The basement health club This hotel’s stunning architecture has a luxurious pool. Also check out and location near the Great Wall, an the brand new Ritz-Carlton Beijing in hour from the city, make it a perfect the heart of the thriving commercial retreat. Families will love the large district along Chang An Avenue kid’s club. Exit at Shuiguan, Badaling (83A Jian Guo Rd.). 1 Jinchengfang Hwy. y 010/8118-1888. Dong Jie. y 010/6601-6666. Grand Hyatt (Beijing Dong- Swiss Road. Near the Lu Song fang Junyue). The big draws are Yuong, this modestly priced guest- the amenities, including the city’s house is hard to find but worth the best pool in a surreal tropical set- effort. Rooms are small; ask for one ting, and some of the best restau- on the second floor. 48 Jianchang rants in the city. 1 Dong Chang’an Hutong, Guozijian Dajie y 010/ Jie. y 010/8518-1234. 8409-0922. Kerry Centre. Kerry Centre offers The Westin Financial Street. modern, nicely appointed rooms The Westin offers some of the most Enjoy the privilege with ideal for international business trav- luxurious rooms in town, complete elers, with commendable amenities, with marble bathrooms and a host including a health club and pool. of in-room amenities. Check out the 1 Guanghua Lu. y 010/6561-8833. poolside bar. Popular with invest- ment-banker types. 9 Jinrong JieYi. Lu Song Yuan. This midrange hotel y 010/6606-8866. has a prime location in the hutongs and plenty of character. Dimly lit The swimming pool at the Grand Hyatt. rooms are decorated with Chinese

antiques. 22 Banchang Hutong, MasterCard Kuan Jie. y 010/6404-0436. The Peninsula. Perhaps Beijing’s most luxurious hotel, with spacious rooms, tasteful modern Chinese art, and flawless service from a staff flu- ent in English. The Peninsula is also home to the city’s most top-end shopping arcade. 8 Jinyu Hutong, Wangfujing. y 010/8516-2888. Regent Beijing. Everything about this newish hotel is elegant and understated, from the muted tones of the rooms to the swimming pool. 02_344255 ch01.qxp 4/23/08 9:12 PM Page 6

6 Beijing: The Best Dining Dining Café Sambal. This chic, sophisti- Mare. For a change of pace, try cated Malaysian eatery is set in a this Spanish restaurant with a wide cozy courtyard house with relaxed range of tapas, a large wine list, and service and a balanced wine list. Try an elegant dining room. The mush- the mildly spicy Kapitan chicken or room risotto and chocolate molten the lamb curry. Doufu Chi Hutong 43. cake are favorites. 14 Xindong Lu. y 010/6400-4875. y 010/6417-1459.

Beijing: The Best Cepe. If you want to splurge on a Noodle Loft. This Northern Chi- Western meal, come to the Ritz- nese restaurant serves more kinds Carlton for the best upscale Italian of noodles than you knew existed. fare in the city. Specialties include One dish consists of a single, long, lobster spaghetti and roasted veal. hand-pulled noodle. 20 Xi Dawang 1 Jinchengfang Dong Jie. y 010/ Lu. y 010/6774-9950. 6601-6666. Three Guizhou Men. The sour The Courtyard (Siheyuan). and spicy Guizhou cuisine is popular Located in a restored courtyard- with hip, trendy Chinese. The hot style house with a bright, modern pot is good, but we never leave interior near the Forbidden City, this without trying the cuigu (ribs) and restaurant offers a fusion menu that tudou ni (mashed potatoes). 2/F, includes cashew-crusted lamb chops Bldg. 8, Gangti Xi Lu. y and grilled chicken breast with lemon 010/6551-8517. grass and coconut curry. Donghua Vineyard. A neighborhood lunch Men Lu 95. y 010/6526-8883. spot with a Continental menu and a Din Tai Fung. This popular Shang- sunny patio. The cafe has wireless hainese restaurant with locations and good wines. 31 Wudaoying around Asia has the best xiao long Hutong (just north of the Confucius bao, or soup dumplings. There’s a temple). y 010/6402-7961.

MasterCard kid’s playroom on the second floor. Wangfujing Night Market 24 Xinyuan Xili Zhongjie. y 010/ (Wangfujing yeshi). Adventur- 6462-4502. ous eaters should stop by for sticks Made in China (Chang An Yi of scorpions, which taste like pop- Hao). This Northern Chinese restau- corn, and silkworms, with their dis- rant is one of our favorites. The tinctive nutty taste. Wangfujinig Peking duck is as good as it gets, yeshi, west of Sundongan and the open kitchen lets you watch Guangchang. No phone. the chefs in action. Save room for homemade ice cream and sorbet. Enjoy the privilege with Enjoy Grand Hyatt, 1 East Chang An Ave. y 010/6510-9608. Mala Youhuo. Write off the mock- village decor as fun, and enjoy Bei- jing’s most popular Sichuan restaurant, known for its friendly service and fresh fish. Guang’an Men Nei Dajie 81. y 010/6304-0426. A bowl of noodles at Noodle Loft. 02_344255 ch01.qxp 4/23/08 9:12 PM Page 7

7 Beijing: The Best Beijing: The Best Shopping

Botao Haute Couture. Innova- and ceramics. Be sure to bargain. tive designs and luxurious fabrics— South side of Panjiayuan Lu. think “affordable couture.” 18 Shin Kong Place (Xin Guang Dongzhimenwai Dajie. y 010/ Tiandi). The gold standard in Bei- 6417-2472. Nightlife jing for luxury shopping. Jianguo Lu Deal. Deal has a wide range of inter- 87. y 010/6530-5888. national special edition shoes by Ice Torana. The place to go for gen- Cream, Nike, and Adidas. 280 Gu Lou uine, hand-woven Tibetan rugs. Dong Dajie. y 010/6402-8262. Kempinski Hotel. y 010/6465-3388, Fine Jewelers. Where the expats ext. 5542. go for custom-made jewelry. A6 Wangfujing Dajie. At the south Gongti. y 010/6592-7118. end of this street is a pedestrian-only Panjiayuan Jiuhuo Shichang. area with shops, fast-food, and two This large outdoor market has every- of the city’s top malls, the Sun (Xin) thing from Chinese curios to paint- Dong an Plaza and the Oriental ings, calligraphy, ethnic clothing, Plaza (Dongfang).

Beijing: The Best Nightlife

like an egg floating on a lake. (West Enjoy the privilege with Ticket Tip of the Great Hall of the People.) To buy tickets, try www.piao.com or Zhengyici Xilou. This 300-year- www.piaowutong.com. Both will old venue is our first choice for deliver tickets to center city hotels. opera (Qian Men Xi Heyan Jie 220). For a more colorful and accessible Chaoyang Theatre. This centrally performance, try the Huguang located theatre’s Traditional Chinese Guild House (Huguang Huiguan Acrobatics shows are always a hit Xilou), Hufang Lu 3. with visitors (36 Dongsanhuan Beilu). Another good option is the Chaoyang Theatre acrobats. MasterCard Tianqiao Acrobatic Theatre (95 Tianqiao Market St.). China Conservatory of Music. The place to go to hear traditional Chinese music (1 Anxiang Lu). Lao She Teahouse (Lao She Chaguan). Acrobatics, opera, and dance, all in a teahouse setting. (Qianmen Xi Dajie 3). National Grand Theatre. Opera, concerts, and theater now have a new home in this controversial, tita- nium-tinted glass dome that looks