Supercharger Kit for Peugeot 306 GTI-6 & Rallye

Peugeot 306 GTI-6 & Rallye Supercharger Kit Installation Guidelines Issue 1 [070108]

Supercharger Kit for Peugeot 306 GTI-6
& Rallye

[XU10 J4RS Engine]
Installation Guidelines

By

Lynx Garage Unit 2/25C
Brockhampton Lane
Havant
Hampshire
PO9 1JT

Telephone/Fax: 02392 499031

Email: [email protected]
Web: www.lynxpowerengineering.co.uk

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Introduction

The kit is designed to enable fitment of the Rotrex C30 series of centrifugal superchargers to the XU10J4RS engine. It could also be adapted to fit other XU10 engines, although this is done at your own risk and at this stage we are unable to assist with the process of adapting the kit to fit engines other than the XU10J4RS.

The kit is designed to boost power from 167 BHP to 230-400 BHP. Large increases in torque can also be achieved. The power achievable depends highly on the engines compression ratio and internal specification; as this governs the maximum boost pressure that can be used safely.

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Low Boost Fitment for Standard Engines (230-260 BHP)

On a standard engine, a maximum boost of 7-8 PSI is recommended; due to the ꢀꢁꢂꢃꢄꢅꢆS’s high static compression ratio of ꢂꢃ.8:ꢂ. With this in mind, with a boost level of 7-8 PSI, approximately 23ꢃ-26ꢃ BHP is achievable. The exact power achieved depends on a number of items, including:

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Intercooler efficiency – larger intercoolers will remove more heat from the boost, and also generate less pressure loss across the intercooler. The boost pipework and bend radius of any corners will also affect the pressure loss between the supercharger and engine. Although extremely difficult due to the space constraints of the 3ꢃ6 engine bay, sharp changes in direction in the boost pipework should be avoided. A minimum pipework diameter of 2” is recommended.

Exhaust system backpressure – The faster you can get exhaust gases out of the cylinders, the faster fresh charge can fill them. A minimum exhaust pipework diameter of 2.2ꢇ” is recommended; removal of the catalytic converter will also give substantial power gains and is recommended in any case. Exhaust back pressure is less critical in forced induction engines. Some back pressure is required for naturally aspirated engines to achieve the pulse effect, a process through which the exhaust gasses from one cylinder are used to help draw the exhaust gasses out of the sequential cylinder.

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Fuel octane rating. The XU10J4RS uses active knock detection to alert the ECU of detonation/pre-ignition within the cylinders. The higher the octane of fuel, the less prone to detonation it is. Running a higher octane fuel allows the ignition timing to be advanced before detonation occurs. The ECU has the capability to retard/advance ignition timing to cater for different fuel qualities. The more ignition advance, the more power. Always use the best quality fuel you can. Prolonged detonation within the cylinders can crack pistons and destroy an engine quickly.

Engine condition – generally the most important factor here is the condition of the bores/piston rings and their sealing properties. An engine with good compression will generate more power than an engine with lost compression. If you have concerns over the condition of your engine, a compression/leak down test is a good place to start. Other sources of high leak down include valves and valve seats and failed head gaskets.

Many other factors affect power, including camshaft timing, condition of the fuel system, the type of oil used etc; however these are unlikely to be an issue if your engine is currently performing well in standard form. It is recommended to diagnose and fix any running problems before fitting the Supercharger Kit.

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High Boost Conversion for Low Compression Engines (350-400 BHP)

Should you wish to achieve a higher power level, more boost will be required, and for this to function safely you need to lower the compression ratio and increase the strength of the engine. The largest of the Rotrex C30 series superchargers (C30-94) is capable of delivering a maximum of ~18-20 PSI of boost on the XU10J4RS engine. At this level of boost, 350-400 BHP is achievable depending on intercooler size, exhaust, fuel system and other parameters as mentioned previously.

To achieve greater than 230-260 BHP, the following internal upgrades are recommended:

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Forged low-compression aluminium pistons. Brands available include Wossner, IASA, IAPEL, and Wiseco. Many other manufacturers are out there and would be more than willing to make

custom pistons if they are not available ‘off the shelf’. Avoid increasing the bore beyond 87mm, or the wall thickness between cylinders is compromised. 86.ꢇmm pistons are generally the best bet – a rebore will be required which will ensure proper ring sealing, and little strength will be lost in the cylinder walls. Compression ratio depends on many factors, such as the octane rating of the fuel you intend to use, but as a guideline we recommend a compression ratio of 8.ꢃ:ꢂ – 8.ꢇ:ꢂ if you intend to run the charger at maximum duty and reach a peak boost of ꢂ8-2ꢃ PSI.

Lynx Garage are suppliers of Wossner and IASA pistons.
Wossner low-compression forged alloy pistons

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Forged pistons fitted to block

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Forged steel conrods. Brands available include Wossner, Arrow Precision, Cat Cams and Saenz. As per the pistons many firms exist capable of making the conrods if you can supply them a standard conrod as a sample.

Lynx Garage are suppliers of Wossner and Saenz conrods. Forged piston fitted to forged steel con-rod with ARP bolts

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Uprated con-rod bolts. These should be supplied with the above, and are generally made by ARP. ARP manufactures two bolt compounds, ARP2000, and L19. L19 is the most desirable and stronger.

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High performance bearings. Performance bearings (generally bi-metal or tri-metal construction) offer increased durability over the aluminium OE Peugeot bearings. They are available from Richard Longman & Co, Christchurch.

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Other modifications such as performance camshafts are not required to generate big power. The hydraulic cam followers should be replaced for solid followers/shims if you intend to raise the rev-limit past 7800 RPM (to avoid valve float and hydraulic lifter pump-up).

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Lightening/balancing of components should not be required. The pistons/conrods should come

as a balanced set. I do not recommend removing any material, or ‘knife edging’ the crankshaft. Knife edging of the crankshaft will reduce oil throw, which is extremely important for keeping the bores cool and well lubricated, and it is extremely hard to properly rebalance a crankshaft. Knife edging may also compromise the strength of the crankshaft.

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Cylinder head porting or polishing is not recommended.

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Fuel pressure regulator – if your going for 37ꢇ-ꢅꢃꢃ BHP you will need to increase the fuel pressure from 3 BAꢆ to ꢅ BAꢆ; this because the injectors will be running out of duty-cycle at the top end of the rev-range on standard fuel pressure. A universal style regulator can be used, such as FSE boost valve, or a ꢅ BAꢆ Bosch regulator can be fitted to your fuel rail. These can be found on VW Golf Vꢆ6’s, or bought new from Bosch dealers, eBay etc.

Bosch 4 BAR Fuel Pressure Regulator

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Fuel pump – the standard fuel pump should flow enough for ~2ꢇꢃ BHP. For more than this, an upgrade is required. There are two options – upgrade the in-tank pump with a Walbro 2ꢇꢇ LPH unit, which can be shoe-horned into the standard pump casing, alternatively use the standard intank pump to feed a fuel swirl pot, with a Walbro 2ꢇꢇ LPH pump running from the fuel swirl pot to the engine. The latter is the best option if the car is to be used on track, as the fuel swirl pot prevents fuel surge/starvation. Walbro fuel pumps are available through many tuning companies and eBay.

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Walbro 255 LPH pump fitted into standard fuel pump casing

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Walbro 255 LPH pump fitted into standard fuel pump casing

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Custom made stainless-steel swirl pot for use with Walbro 255LPH external pump Swirl pot and pump installed in place of spare wheel

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Clutch – the standard clutch will cope with ꢅꢃꢃ BHP and over 2ꢇꢃ ft/lbs of torque, however if you intend to drag race/track the car an upgrade is recommended, for longetivity more than performance. Several manufacturers offer clutch upgrades, including OMP, Helix Autosport and AP ꢆacing.

Lynx Garage is able to supply Helix Autosport products.

For All Conversions

 Larger fuel injectors are required to supply the additional fuel required to mix with the air pumped into the engine by the supercharger. When replacing the injectors, you must ensure they are high impedance or they will not be compatible with the standard ECU. The recommended upgrade is Bosch 440cc/min injectors, Bosch part no. is 0 280 150 558. These are capable of flowing enough for 350 BHP on standard fuel pressure (3 BAR) or 400 BHP with fuel pressure increased to 4 BAR. These are available in the UK, although are more common in the US. They are used by Ford Motorsport, and often sold under a Ford Motorsport part no. which is M-9593- F302. They are 440cc or 42lb/hr and lime green in colour. They can be bought from eBay Motors and other US based tuning websites.

Bosch/Ford Racing 440CC injectors

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We recommend running ‘colder’ spark plugs. All spark plugs have a heat reference within their part no, although different manufacturers use different numbering systems. The heat grade refers to the thermal conductivity of the spark plug, and how it transfers heat from the electrode into surrounding components. Colder plugs retain less heat, allowing surrounding materials (such as cylinder head) to absorb and dissipate more heat. The standard heat grade used on the ꢀꢁꢂꢃꢄꢅꢆS is 6. We would recommend using a grade 7 plug (higher number = cooler). Both of these numbers relate to NGK sparkplugs. The colder plugs help keep cylinder/chamber temperatures down, and help reduce hot spots. This is another step forward in eliminating piston-destroying detonation/pre-ignition.

www.sparkplugs.co.uk offer excellent service and a superb range of spark plugs.

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We also recommend using the best oil you can afford. Our oil of choice is Royal Purple Racing 51. Royal Purple is a true motorsport derived company; hence it is relatively unheard of in the

‘tuning’ industry. ꢆacing ꢇꢂ is ꢂꢃWꢇꢃ grade fully synthetic oil with an exceptional life span. It can last up to ꢂ2,ꢃꢃꢃ miles even under motorsport conditions. It also has a film strength up to ꢅꢃꢃ% stronger than other well renowned performance oils. In our view film strength is the most important factor; it’s what prevents bearing surfaces touching, avoiding metal-to-metal contact, and therefore prevents terminal failure. The downside to ꢆoyal Purple products is price; ꢆacing ꢇꢂ is ~£ꢂ6 + VAT per litre. Although it may cost over £ꢂꢃꢃ for an oil change, it’s cheaper than a new bottom-end.

Royal Purple products are available through Lynx Garage.

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Installing the Supercharger Kit

The scope of this document is to provide guidelines for essentially bolting the kit to the engine; it does not cover, nor is intended to cover any aspect of engine building or performing internal modifications. In addition to this document, we recommend you have a Haynes Manual for the Peugeot 306. Although it does not strictly cover the GTi-6, it provides a lot of useful information on the other XU10 engined models that can be applied to the GTi-6.

This guide is not to be considered complete instructions - it purely offers guidelines and assumes a reasonable level of mechanical competence and some mechanical background knowledge.

The installation of the kit can be completed with the engine in place; there is no need to remove it. If you wish to upgrade the internals of the engine and run a high boost conversion, it is probably easier to remove the engine, fit the new internals and supercharger kit, and then reinstall it fully assembled. Lynx Garage are able to offer a fitting service tailored to your specification, please contact us if you wish to discuss.

Kit Contents

The kit should contain the following:

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Inlet Manifold – constructed from TIG welded 6ꢃ82 T6 alloy sections. Supercharger Bracket – Laser profiled steel plate, with zinc + colour passivate finish. Supplied with 6ꢃ82 T6 alloy guide and tensioner pulley.

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PAS Pump Brackets – Laser profiled steel plates, with zinc + colour passivate finish. Supplied assembled on mounting studs with nuts/washers.

PAS Pump Hoses – ꢂ off short hose with swaged compression fittings; ꢂ off long hose, plain rubber.

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Inlet Adaper for Rotrex C30-94 Supercharger – machined from billet 6ꢃ82 T6 alloy.

MAP/ICV Housing – machined from billet 6ꢃ82 T6 alloy – to fit GTI-6 throttle body & sensors. Air Scoop – folded alloy air scoop Boost Control Ring – Laser profiled 38.ꢃꢃ I.D steel ring to control boost for low boost applications.

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Throttle body blanking plate – to fit GTI-6 throttle body Bag of fastenings Drive belt

Also Needed:

In addition to the above, you will also need:

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Rotrex C30-94 Supercharger & oil-circuit Setrab/Mocal oil cooler for above Bosch 440CC injectors

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Intercooler

Boost pipework for above – alloy tube/silicone connectors as required

Brackets to mount oil cooler/intercooler Soldering iron/cable connectors/heat-shrink tube for wiring modifications

Stripping Out

To enable you to fit the Supercharger Kit, some components need to be removed from the engine to make space and in some cases to be modified.

You need to remove:

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Front bumper, grille, hockey-stick shaped under headlight trim, headlights, front panel, fan cowling, A/C condenser [if applicable] and radiator. Removing these components will allow clear access to the engine. The kit can be fitted without removing the complete front end, however this method is a lot less fiddly and much quicker. Removal of the components above is generic across the entire 306 range, and is covered in the Haynes Manual. Note, you will need to get

your A/C degassed if it’s pressurised prior to removing the condenser, pump, or any pipework. As shown below removal of the front end allows easy access to the front of the engine, where the majority of the installation will take place.

Stripping of front end allows easy access to engine

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Inlet manifold and supporting brackets. Refer to Haynes Manual for further detail.

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PAS pump (the fluid needs to be drained from the reservoir to avoid spillage when the pipework is removed). Refer to Haynes Manual for further detail.

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Power steering cooling pipe [circled in red in photo below] – this is the steel tube that runs along

the front chassis cross member, then back on itself. It is completely unnecessary; and removing it will make piping you intercooler much easier. It will also save some weight. Don’t throw this pipe away – part of it can be cut off and used to re-join the flexible rubber PAS hoses in lieu of the steel PAS cooling pipe. It is a simple case of cutting a suitably angled/length of the steel pipe, and re-joining the two rubber hoses it was previously connected to. The existing hose clips can be re-used on the same joints.

PAS cooling pipe to be removed

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A small section of the PAS cooling pipe removed above needs to be cut off and used to re-join the two rubber PAS hoses circled here:

A small section of the PAS cooling pipe can be used to re-join hoses

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Alternator. Refer to Haynes Manual for further detail. Air conditioning pump, condenser, and associated pipework. The pipework can be stripped back to the bulkhead and then capped off/bunged as necessary. In order to allow the pipework to be removed, it may be necessary to remove the upper left engine mounting; this allows the engine to be pulled forward to gain better access around the bulkhead. Refer to Haynes Manual for further detail. If you may revert to having A/C at any stage, or want to save your self some work, you can leave the main A/C pipe in place. This is the one that runs behind the engine, into the bulkhead, and is quite awkward to remove. It can be split at the joints [special tool required] to enable the rest of the pipework that runs to the pump/condenser to be removed. The drier unit [small canister near PAS reservoir] can also be left in place if desired. Any pipework left in place should be bunged/capped off to prevent the rest of the system getting contaminated.

It’s possible to perform the supercharger conversion and retain the A/C, however this is somewhat more complicated, and not covered in detail within this document. The basic process for retaining the A/C is to leave the A/C pump mounted on the sump instead of relocating the PAS pump here, and then find an alternative solution for the PAS. The first solution is obvious – remove it. The second solution is to fit an EPAS (Electronic Power Assisted Steering) pump. Instead of requiring drive from the auxiliary belt, as the name suggest these pumps are electronic. This is very useful, because they can be mounted almost anywhere. The EPAS pumps are readily available, and a pump from a Peugeot ꢂꢃ6 or Citroen Saxo would be ideal. The associated wiring harness/relays are also needed from the donor-car. These pumps are non-variable rate, two-wire, which makes installation easy. Avoid using variable rate EPAS systems from the Peugeot 3ꢃ7 etc as the electrical installation of this would be somewhat more complicated. The best solution for locating the EPAS pump is to relocate the battery to the boot, and then mount the pump where the battery tray would sit. New hydraulic hoses can be made easily and many companies exist that offer this service – Hyphose and Think Automotive are two examples.

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Modification of Ancillaries Bracket

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Once the ancillaries above have been removed, you need to remove the ancillaries mounting bracket. This is the large cast iron bracket that is bolted to the block that the alternator etc is mounted on. Before this can be removed, the upper-left engine mount needs to be removed, and the engine supported from underneath, refer to Haynes Manual for further detail.

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Once the bracket has been removed, it needs to have the PAS mounting lugs removed to make clearance for the supercharger. This can be done with an angle grinder, or if you have lots of time on your hands, a hacksaw. The quickest and easiest option is to take the bracket to a local engineering/steelwork/welding company; they should have a plasma cutter which will make short work of removing the lugs. Once removed the sawn edges can be filed smooth, and the bracket repainted if required.

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The photo below shows the PAS mounting lugs which need to be removed from the ancillary’s

bracket. The cut line shown is not critical but indicative – as long as the 3 mounting bolt holes are left in place, and the there is sufficient clearance for the supercharger, it will be OK.

Tippex indicates approximate cut-line

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Whilst the bracket is off, it is also to a good idea to run a thread cleaner/tap down the supercharger bracket mounting holes with some WD40 as lubricant/cleaner. The reason for this is, in addition to being good practice, is one of the threads is unused on the standard engine, so is bound to be corroded. After cleaning the threads, you also need to check the length of the mounting bolts; the 4 mounting points have varying thread depths, the bolts supplied will need to be cut to the appropriate length. The reason for this is the bolts can only be purchased in standard lengths. The bolt lengths can be checked by screwing them into the ancillaries bracket without the supercharger bracket attached. Ensure the bolts can screw into the bracket to leave 8mm or less [supercharger bracket thickness] between the bolt head and face of the casting.

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The photo below identifies the supercharger bracket mounting points. The threads need to be cleaned, and the bolts supplied cut to the appropriate length.

Mounting point threads should be cleaned

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Once the ancillaries bracket is finished, it can be bolted back onto the engine. Installation is a reversal of removal; and should be covered in the Haynes Manual. It is also a good idea to use threadlock for these bolts; and ensure they are torqued up correctly.

Re-fit the alternator – refer to Haynes Manual for further details and torque settings.

Mounting the Supercharger Bracket

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