Ken Spence Photograph: Hot Air Balloons over Bagan, Myanmar

Asiaancient + modern

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Asiaancient + modern

China Immerse yourself in the buzzing and vibrant founder and CEO of Affordable Art it housed the Shanghai Club, an China, who gives expert insights exclusive retreat for British gentry. cities of Beijing and Shanghai on Chinese art, along with the history of this Bauhaus-style, former munitions factory complex. Private rban China is where the studio visits can also be arranged. Shanghai’s architectural heritage past, present and future includes a fine portfolio of Art Deco intersect as this vast buildings, from the brooding Park nation hurtles towards Hotel (parkhotelshanghai.cn) to the Uglobal superpower status. A younger city, whose founding pencil-slim Bank of China. Shanghai The contrasting historical and principal was commerce rather than will host the 2015 World Congress contemporary narratives of Beijing imperial decree, Shanghai has a on Art Deco, and Patrick Cranley, and Shanghai – China's two primary penchant for showiness, apparent founder of Historic Shanghai cities – is where the real fun begins. in its angular skytowers and glitzy (facebook.com/historic.shanghai), will boutiques. Stylish stays include be your Art Deco guide. Architect the slick, state-of-the-art Banyan Spencer Dodington of Luxury Tree Shanghai on the Bund Concierge (luxuryconciergechina. Beijing’s imperial legacy is (banyantree.com) with spectacular com) offers expert walks, through old underscored by the Forbidden views, and the neo-classical Waldorf Shanghai’s neighbourhoods and its City and Temple of Heaven, while Astoria Shanghai on the Bund futuristic constructs, as well as private Maoism’s imprint hangs over (waldorfastoria.com) – which recalls shopping trips for design pieces from Tiananmen Square. Luxury living is Shanghai’s 1930s golden age when the ‘Pearl of the Orient’ heyday. a coveted concept for today’s Beijing hipsters, though, and the hotel scene traditions endure in the shadows Clockwise from exemplifies this. Kengo Kuma's The of modern skyscrapers. Explore top: suite at Aman at Summer Opposite House (theoppositehouse.com) the hutongs around the Drum Palace; Panorama fuses minimalism with contemporary Tower and Houhai Lakes with Bund Retreat at Chinese art, and Aman at Summer Beijing Sideways (beijingsideways. Banyan Tree Shanghai on the Palace (amanresorts.com) occupies com) – traverse the backstreets in a Bund; atrium pavilions once reserved for guests of 1930s-style motorbike and sidecar, water feature at the Empress Dowager. or take a sidecar jaunt to the Great The Opposite Wall. Fast forward to China’s white- House; exterior of Waldorf Astoria hot contemporary arts scene with Shanghai on Bespoke Beijing (bespoke-beijing. the Bund The capital’s labyrinthine hutong com). A private tour of 798 Art alleyways are where timeless District is hosted by Tom Pattinson, traveller | promotion

Asiaancient + modern

Hong Kong Discover the fascinating traditions beyond the glitzy exterior of 'Asia's World City'

Flightseeing is a thrilling way to appreciate – and photograph – the spectacular cityscape. Leave below the spangly malls and boutiques, and ascend by elevator to the helipad lounge atop the landmark hotel The Peninsula Hong Kong (peninsula.com). From here, HeliServices (heliservices. com.hk) will whisk you through the skies in a twin-engine Eurocopter AS355N Squirrel. The dizzying andscaped around the flight intro showcases Victoria splendid Victoria Harbour Harbour and the waterfront skyline, and referred to as Asia’s Hong Kong’s eclectic hotel scene before heading across the bays and World City, Hong Kong lives highlights this double-edged beaches of the outlying islands or Lup to its prize billing. While personality. Designer minimalism over the east coast farmlands of the much of its colonial architecture and high-rise harbour views define New Territories – and even to the on the time-honoured preparations has been razed and replaced with The Upper House (upperhouse. border with mainland China. and cultural importance of soaring monuments to constructive com) in Central. Across the water Cantonese dishes, such as wanton hedonism, Hong Kong’s cultural in Tsim Sha Tsui, Hullett House noodles, dim sum and egg tarts – all traditions remain intact. Look (hulletthouse.com) features 10 washed down with a pot of Chinese beyond the showy façade and individually themed suites in a Back on terra firma, fine cuisine – cha at a traditional teahouse. discover a city defined by its white-stucco building from 1881 comprising traditional Cantonese formative history, as well as that previously housed the Marine flavours and contemporary global its blazing neon futurism. Police headquarters. dining – is a Hong Kong trademark. Several big-name chefs, including If the urban energy becomes Clockwise from Robuchon, Ducasse and Nobu, overpowering, take to the waters top: view from have restaurants here, and Hong surrounding Hong Kong for the spa at The Kong and Macau were jointly therapeutic respite. Spoilt Hong Peninsula Hong Kong; Casam featured in the second Michelin Kong (spoilt.com.hk) takes couples Suite at Hullett Restaurant Guide to be published on a leisurely sunset cruise, which House; Sky Bridge in Asia ( was the first). will start from Aberdeen pier. Jump at The Upper Immerse yourself in the back aboard a deluxe Beneteau yacht, House; Helipad at The Peninsula streets of Central and Sheung Wan armed with a chilled bottle of Hong Kong with Hong Kong Foodie Tasting bubbly and some canapés, and Tours (hongkongfoodietours.com) revel in the coastal diversity of to explore its gastronomic culture Deep Water Bay, Repulse Bay and and local fruit and dried seafood Middle Island as the sun dips over markets. Half-day tours lift the lid the fragrant harbour. traveller | promotion

Asiaancient + modern

ocated off the coast of kiosks and market stalls selling whitewater, swim upstream through southern China, this island a cornucopia of xiao chi street a high-walled river canyon, or climb nation’s high-tech products snacks. For branded luxury, the face of a roaring waterfall. are consumed worldwide, W (wtaipei.com), in the Xinyi Afterwards, indulge tired limbs Lbut its dramatic scenery fashion and nightlife district, affords in the soothing hot spring waters awaits further discovery. Street commanding views of the 508-metre of the Landis Wulai (wulai. markets in the capital, Taipei, high Taipei 101 (taipei-101.com) landishotelsresorts.com) and feast on a abound with indigenous delicacies, – the world’s third-tallest building banquet of Taiwanese dishes. such as steamed dumplings, oyster – best enjoyed from the 10th-floor omelette and soupy beef noodles. heated swimming pool and Culture buffs should make for the Tai Chi Garden. National Palace Museum (npm. As an alternative option, Cam gov.tw), which houses the world's McLean, Director of In Motion largest collection of Chinese art Asia, suggests jumping aboard treasures. Nationalist leader Chiang Described by 16th-century an ultra-modern high-speed train Kai-shek shipped most of the Portuguese voyagers as Ilha Formosa – which travels at up to 300kph priceless paintings, furnishings, (beautiful island), 's outdoor – from Taipei, where you should ceramics and jade sculptures from discovery is its greatest asset. make the scenic 220km journey to China to Taiwan in 1948, as he fled Locally based adventure specialists Nantou gateway and the sublime Mao’s Communist revolution. In Motion Asia (inmotionasia.com) Sun Moon Lake. Located in the whisks active travellers in comfort heart of Taiwan, the island's largest to Yangmingshan National Park, freshwater body boasts calm, 10km south of Taipei, to hike and emerald-green waters framed by Stay overnight at the 162-room cycle among majestic mountains, towering mountains. Stay in a highly amba Taipei Ximending (amba- dormant volcanoes and bamboo contemporary courtyard villa at hotels.com/en/home), a design hotel forests. Blissed out from the scenic The Lalu (thelalu.com.au), with created by a collective of Taiwanese splendor, you’ll move on to Wulai, panoramic views of the lake, and architects, artists and music stylists. home to the Atayal Aboriginal tribe. visit ancient temples and aboriginal Ximending is a buzzing district with Lying in a hot spring valley, Wulai villages dotted among the hills, a flourishing design and lifestyle offers a wealth of thrilling adventure before savouring dinner and wine on scene, and curbside restaurants, sports. Leap off a cliff into churning a sunset cruise under a full moon.

Main image: the rooftop pool at W Taipei

Taiwan This 'Ilha Formosa' – beautiful island – is rich in culture and exotic, indigenous food TRAVELLER | PROMOTION

Asiaancient + modern he complexity of Japanese Clockwise from top: Japanese cuisine culture and history is hard at the Ryokan Collection; the pool and Deluxe Suite living room both at The to define by simply visiting Peninsula Tokoyo; Ryokan Collection its major tourist attractions. T The mazy pathway to understanding modern is best approached through its intriguingly nuanced art, architecture and world class cuisine.

Boasting a fine modern art collection, The Peninsula Tokyo (peninsula.com/Tokyo) also offers a private Art of Hospitality experience. A chauffeured Rolls Royce ride to Kyu Asakura House in Shibuya is followed by a guided tour of this historic mansion. Built in 1919 in traditional Japanese style, the house and gardens evoke a time rewind to the progressive Taisho era, known as Japan’s ‘Jazz Age’. Afterwards, a private viewing is offered of the Art Front Gallery’s (artfront.co.jp) prized collection of contemporary Japanese art.

Japan’s refined cuisine is cherished worldwide, but its deep roots Japan in Japanese island culture are frequently overlooked. So, when Take a culinary and cultural tour of modern Japan, to in Tokyo. Locally based Michi Travel (michitravel.com) conducts understand its complex and extraordinary roots private culinary tours to learn about the ingredients, preparations and the nearby delicacy stalls in Asakusa The beautiful gardens and temples Japanese hospitality is closely cultural influences of favourite selling unagi (eels) and shabu-shabu of Kyoto merit an extended stay and aligned with the inspirations of dishes. En route, the tour visits (beef hotpot). The tour culminates an exploration of the compelling nature, so staying in a centuries-old Tsukiji Fish Market, one of the in upmarket Ginza, for a browse history and culture. Luxury Kyoto ryokan is a bucket list staple of world’s largest seafood markets, around its gourmet food stores. (luxurykyoto.jp) connects visitors many travellers. Relax and unwind and a local sushi stand for ‘fresh- with exclusive private tours that amid divine pastoral landscapes, to-plate’ sampling. Next stop, via engage them with traditional arts, take a rejuvenating soak in a water taxi, is Senso-ji temple and crafts and cuisine. Entertainment in steaming onsen, and savour kaiseki Kyoto is synonymous with maiko – haute cuisine served by kimono- young women who undergo a long wearing staff. Choose your ultimate training period to learn the art of Japanese abode from the Ryokan wearing a kimono, distinctive white Collection (ryokancollection.com) makeup and floral hair decorations, of 29 traditional inns countrywide. and delivering omotenashi (Japanese Private cultural tours are also hospitality). A private maiko-hosted offered, including an exploration of ochaya-asobi (teahouse banquet) Kyoto’s lesser know temples and an features Kyoto-style cuisine, opportunity to meet with Buddhist cultural dance performances and monks to a scenic tour of Kobe games, as well as a commemorative and Awajishima, an island rich in photo opportunity. Japanese mythology and home to Izanagi, the oldest shrine in Japan.

Relax and unwind amid divine pastoral landscapes, take a rejuvenating soak in a steaming onsen, and savour kaiseki haute cuisine TRAVELLER | PROMOTION

Asiaancient + modern

ften considered a stopover destination for brand shopping, Sling- Osipping at Raffles and Singapore high-stake gambling, Singapore’s natural assets can be overlooked. Yes, there is high life and hedonism – but Bounteous tropical greenery, which !"#$#%&'%()'*%+(,-&./#-!0%!$*1&/()%2#(3!4 flourishes in the equatorial climate with high rainfall, adds colour and Bay, the 121-hectare Gardens Pollen (pollen.com.sg), within the vibrancy to a distinctly 21st-century by the Bay (gardensbythebay. grounds, serves modern European Clockwise from top: the rooftop jacuzzi and main lobby of The Fullerton Bay Hotel; urban backdrop, where avant com.sg) is a funky update on the cuisine by acclaimed British chef concert in the park at Singapore Botanic garde architecture merges with botanical garden format. Take Jason Atherton in the Flower Dome. Gardens; exterior of Pollen restaurant restored Chinese Malay, Indian and time to experience the cool-dry neoclassical colonial buildings. climate Flower Dome, Cloud Forest Conservatory, and the 18 rather staid image – but Gillman ‘supertree’ vertical gardens that More traditional garden aficionados Barracks (gillmanbarracks.com), stand up to 50-metres high, covered will relish a visit to Singapore southeast of the city, may change this Opened in 2012 on a coastal with 200 plant and fern species and Botanic Gardens (sbg.org.sg), perception. Originally built in 1936 as a promontory extending into Marina connected by an aerial walkway. a delightful green space within British army barracks, the whitewashed walking distance of the brand- buildings have been converted to house saturated malls of Orchard Road. an eclectic cluster of contemporary Among the attractions is the sublime art galleries from 10 countries. These National Orchid Garden, where include New York-based Sundaram more than 1,000 unique species Tagore, ’s Michael Janssen of orchids – including Vanda Miss Gallery, Mizuma Gallery from Tokyo Joaquim, Singapore’s national flower and Shanghai’s ShangHart. – are displayed. For early risers, Urbane Nomads (urbanenomads. com) can arrange a morning tai chi class in the gardens, followed by an Singapore boasts several stylish pillows organic picnic breakfast. on which to rest a travel-weary head. The sumptuous Fullerton Bay Hotel Bounteous tropical greenery flourishes in (fullertonbayhotel.com) at Collyer Quay is the sassy sibling of the Fullerton the equatorial climate with high rainfall, and adds Cutting-edge artistic expression is not Hotel, and its 'lounge terrace', by vibrancy to a 21st‐century urban backdrop usually associated with Singapore’s acclaimed designer Andre Fu. TRAVELLER | PROMOTION

Asiaancient + modern

leading hotel The Shilla (shilla.net) provides guided tours to picturesque spots used for filming ’s SouthKorea romance-laden soap operas and Go Gangnam style ­ 's party movies – which are wildly popular across Asia – including Seopjikoji, hotspot, or head for green Jeju a rugged rocky cape, Cheonjiyeon Waterfall and the volcanic caves and pop star named Psy, is a rare thrill. The Demilitarised and Korean Tourism (visitkorea. rustic coastal scenery of Udo Island. dancing as if on Zone, or DMZ, separating North or.kr) operate compelling trips to see horseback, has built and South Korea, is known as the infiltration tunnels dug beneath the a planetary buzz for Great Divide. The two nations DMZ and the infamous Freedom ASeoul’s upmarket are technically still at war, and a Bridge, used to trade prisoners. For an offbeat reinterpretation Gangnam district. Its neon-lit captivating day trip from Seoul The highlight is squeezing past of Jeju nature, take time to visit boutiques, restaurants and clubs are brings visitors up close and personal the armed face-off between South The Spirited Garden at Bunjae a partying hotspot, even if Psy was with strategic global relations in and North Korean soldiers at Artpia (spiritedgarden.com). actually mocking their ostentation. action. DMZ Tours (dmztours.com) Panmunjeom to stand on North Local farmer Bum-young Sung Giving context to Seoul’s global Korean soil inside the Conference has dedicated most of his life to credibility jump is The Seoul Room – a small hut straddling creating one of the world’s largest Museum of History (museum. the borderline where official bonsai gardens, renowned for its seoul.kr), which houses a fascinating negotiations take place. beautiful and tranquil landscape. collection of ancient artifacts and The approachable owner – now a treasures, plus exhibitions of the famous local celebrity – can be found capital under Japanese occupation, most days tending his windswept postwar industrialisation and, of For a more naturalistic Korean rockeries and artistic topiary course, Gangnam development. perspective, fly south to the creations, and is happy to share a untamed beauty of Jeju Island. cup of green tea in the teahouse to Comprising more than 350 dormant discuss the numerous presidents and volcanoes, Jeju is dominated by prime ministers who have visited his Standing at the margin of history Mount Halla, considered both a ‘Garden of Peace’ since it opened to cherished landmark and the island’s the public in 1992. spiritual heart. Jeju is thought The island's leading hotel provides guided once to have been part of the Korean Peninsula, but a volcanic Clockwise from top: Seoul Floating tours to picturesque spots used for filming South Island; the lobby of The Shilla Jeju; exterior explosion several thousand years of The Seoul Museum of History; a suite at Korea's romance‐laden soap operas and movies ago blasted it apart. The island’s The Shilla Jeju traveller | promotion

Asiaancient + modern

Clockwise from top: Macalister Mansion main entrance; the pool area at Villa Samadhi; reception at Macalister Malaysia Mansion; suite at The Majestic Hotel (macalistermansion.com), a century- Eat street food in Kuala Lumpur, and stay old British manor redesigned in a heritage­themed hotel in Georgetown with contemporary comforts and sculptures by local artists.

uala Lumpur only gained was among Southeast Asia’s finest city status in 1972, but hotels. It reopened in late 2012 skytower construction, as The Majestic Hotel (ytlhotels. Penang was an original Straits overhead highways and com), with 300 classical rooms, and Settlement, along with Singapore Kglassy malls mark it as an an impressive Art Deco spa. Villa and Malacca, and its Malay, Chinese emerging South East Asian ‘Tiger’ Samadhi (villasamadhi.com.my) and Indian cultures – interwoven city. Sneak between the high-rises in the diplomatic quarter is a by British colonial influence – are and you’ll discover delicious street Zen-infused urban retreat with the 150-metre long Canopy Walk on engagingly presented at the Penang food infused with Chinese, Malay thatched-roof suites adorned by a rope bridge spanning the treetops, Museum (penangmuseum.gov.my). and Indian flavours. Follow the imported Thai furnishings. and for hard-core adventurers there’s Fully briefed with local context, heritage walking trail from Merdeka a 30km mountain biking track. embark on a guided tour of the Square, taking in the 1897 Moghul- cobalt blue Cheong Fatt Tze style Sultan Abdul Samad Building Mansion (cheongfatttzemansion.com). and Tudor lines of the 1884 Royal For a nature-based city escape, Villa Commissioned in the 1880s by a Selangor club, as well as Art Deco Samadhi arranges limousine transfers Slower paced than Kuala Lumpur, rags-to-riches Chinese merchant, shop-houses and Buddhist and for the 30-minute drive to Bukit the UNESCO World Heritage this beautifully restored mansion Hindu temples. Lagong Forest Reserve (frim.gov. city of Georgetown, on the island was built according to feng shui my) on the outskirts of the capital. of Penang, is renowned for its principles by artisans from China. Inside the reserve, a network of trails colourful colonial mansions, tasty The beguiling stories surrounding winds through the verdant rainforest street snacks, mosques and Chinese its construction, painted Cantonese In the 1930s, the neoclassical and wetlands that provide a natural temples. Georgetown also boasts lattices, Art Nouveau stained glass Hotel Majestic, opposite the habitat to monkeys, lizards and top-notch, heritage-themed hotels, and its owner’s business dealings, Moorish former railway station, tropical birds. More challenging is such as Macalister Mansion are pure soap opera. TRAVELLER | PROMOTION

Asiaancient + modern

Thailand Experience heavenly Buddhist temples and hill­tribe treks off the beaten track

he golden roofed palaces a romantic journey along the Chao Clockwise from and temples of , Phraya – known as the 'River of top: elephants at Four Seasons known locally as the City Kings'. The lifeblood of the modern Tented Camp of Angels, sit side-by- Thai capital, the river trip meanders Golden Triangle; side with some of Asia’s past the Grand Palace and Temple outdoor shower at T 137 Pillars House; sleekest shops and most captivating of Dawn, and continues leisurely Chedi pond at nightlife. Bangkok's cuisine – all towards the ancient Siamese capital The Sukothai spicy, sour, sweet flavours and Ayuthaya, to archaeological sites and fragrances – is legendary, and religious monuments from its four glamorous hotels such as The centuries as the seat of Thai royalty. Sukothai, Bangkok (sukhothai. com) – a central Thai-style boutique hotel with extraordinary ornamental gardens – are the envy of many ’s spiritually minded cities the world over. second city, Chiang Mai, boasts 300 Buddhist temples, many dating from the 13th century, plus spectacular forested scenery, Four hours drive from Chiang Mai, (allpointseast.com) Journey back in time aboard the trekking, rafting, and elephant at the convergence of the Thailand, implores trippers to bring their Anantara Song or Anantara riding. 137 Pillars House Laos and Myanmar borders, is the camera, tripod and spare memory Dream, two converted teak rice (137pillarshouse.com) occupies remote Golden Triangle wilderness cards for its all-encompassing barges (bangkok-cruises.anantara.com) for a black Indo-Portuguese style region. Here, Four Seasons Tented Thailand photographic tours, teak house dating back to 1889. Camp Golden Triangle (fourseasons. which are led by experienced It offers private guided visits to com/goldentriangle) comprises 15 travel snapper Gary Latham. The scenic temples of the former Lanna super-glamp tents with hardwood shutterbug journeys through one of Kingdom, as well as Wat Phrathat floors and handcrafted furnishings. Southeast Asia’s most photogenic Doi Suthep, a mountainside temple The resort shares the hillside countries start in Bangkok, then considered a sacred site by the bamboo jungle with an elephant head to the ruined, ancient city of Thai people. In addition, The rehabilitation reserve. Embark on a Sukhothai and Chiang Mai, before Kitchen, housed in a teak pavilion, foraging walk, visit remote temples going off the beaten track into hosts classes for learning how and, best of all, learn to ride an the mist-shrouded mountains and to cook fragrant northern elephant mahout-style, then swing forests and remote hill-tribe villages Thai cuisine. into the jungle at sunrise. of the Golden Triangle. traveller | promotion

Asiaancient + modern

here do you begin Clockwise from with 7,107 beautiful top: the main pool at Abaca islands near the Manila is the gateway to the Resort; Makati Equator? By its islands. Whether lingering awhile City at dusk; bath­ own admission, the in the capital or staying en route room at Fairmont W Makati City Philippines under-promotes itself to somewhere else, the 280-room as a destination, so its wonderful Fairmont Makati City (fairmont. beaches, coral reefs, vibrant festivals com/makati), with its Willow Stream and bio-diverse landscapes remain Spa, palm-tree-fringed swimming comparatively uncrowded. pool and Long Bar shared with the adjoining Raffles Makati, is a relaxing retreat in the business district. If you have time to spare in the capital, Jeepney Tours (jeepneytours.com) are a fun way to explore Intramuros, the Spanish- built old medieval city of Manila with photogenic churches, colonial houses and cobblestones plazas. Spanish, Chinese and native Filipino influences. Set out in classic Spanish style, the city’s Voted as one of the seven new Described by UNESCO as “a well- main streets converge on the wonders of nature, Puerto preserved example of a European picturesque central plaza. A day Princesa National Park (puerto- trading town,” the 16th-centry tour of Vigan can be combined undergroundriver.com) in the province city of Vigan blends colonial-era with a stay in one of seven of Palawan, is prized for its jagged salvaged-wood-and-stone villas limestone karsts and 8.2km long furnished with vintage Ilocano subterranean river. The outstanding furniture at Sitio Remedios biodiversity encapsulates an entire (sitioremedios.ph), a seaside resort ecosystem and is famed for its in a reconstructed village within diverse bird life. After all that the town of Currimao. Then visit exploring, it's time to chill out. the embalmed body, displayed in Abaca Resort (abacaresort.com) is a Philippines a glass coffin, of former dictator tropical, boutique hideaway on the Ferdinand Marcos and his wife oceanfront at Mactan Island, with a Islands bursting with stunning, serene Imelda – at the Marcos's family sumptuous spa and award-winning beaches and bio­diverse landscapes home in the small town Batac. California-Mediterranean restaurant. traveller | promotion

Asiaancient + modern

local culture with a private Javanese dinner at Pecel Solo, a restaurant housed in a traditional teakwood house, and a stay at d'Omah Hotel (yogyakartaaccommodation.com) in the village of Tembi. The owner, Warwick Purser, is an expert on Yogyakarta’s history and arts.

Take a motorbike tour along Indonesia Yogyakarta’s charming back roads and mountain villages. Visit Imogiri Tour mountain villages, party in Jakarta, village, where traditional batik designs are made with natural dyes, or immerse yourself in a thriving art scene and Mendut, a temple that enshrines the fully intact Buddha statue at talent. If you are staying a night open-armed statue of Noah atop an Borobudur. At first light, Soma’s or two, the traditional Indonesian ark-shaped hotel overlooking a bay founder, former TV host Cristy interiors that reinterpret Majapahit in Sumatra. Hotfoot it to the fine Elmendorp, will accompany you to culture and palatial guestrooms city of Yogyakarta, renowned for its watch the sun rise over Borobudur give The Dharmawangsa (the- classical Javanese culture and fine from the neighbouring hill of dharmawangsa.com) the appeal of a art, and the magnificent 9th century Menoreh, and then proceed to the Sultan’s private residence. Buddhist monument at Borobudur. temple. Finish the trip at Selogiyo, Soma Journeys (somajourneys. an ancient Hindu temple on the com) will ease your immersion into slopes of Sumbing volcano.

A scenic two-hour drive from the capital, Bandung is famed for its Hotfoot it to Yogyakarta, renowned for its cultural and artistic festivals, against classical Javanese culture and fine art, and the lated by 2020 to host the an alluring backdrop of Dutch magnificent Buddhist monument at Borobudur world’s third-tallest building colonial and Art Deco architecture. – standing 638 metres high – The city is also home to NuArt Clockwise Jakarta’s frenetic energy and Sculpture Park (nuarta.com), a from top: the lively nightlife and dining majestic hillside villa and garden pool area at The S Dharmawangsa; scenes merit exploration. The vast displaying the eclectic works of archaeological and ethnography Indonesia’s most famous sculpture Borobudur temple in Yogyakarta; collections of the National artist, Nyoman Nuarta. The iconic suite at d'Omah Museum (museumnasional.or.id) sculptures span his long career, Hotel; Majapahit provide a useful introduction to and many of the best pieces are Hall at The Dharmawangsa the world’s largest archipelago, outspoken social commentaries, comprising 17,508 islands. notably from the era of military Indonesian contemporary art has dictatorship. The artist often greets been making waves of late, and Art visitors and is happy to discuss his Seasons Gallery (artseasonsgallery. two bold public art projects, the com) and Ark Gelerie (arkgalerie. 475-feet high Garuda Wisnu com) showcase the brightest local Kencana in Bali, and a 196-feet traveller | promotion

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Clockwise from top: Deluxe Suite at Shinta Mani; the pool at Villa Paradiso; Song Saa picnic at neighbouring Koh Rong island

ambodia’s rapidly gentrifying capital Phnom Penh, and Distinctly modern Asian hospitality Siem Reap in the is offered at Song Saa Private Cnorth – gateway to the Island (songsaa.com) off the Cambodia temples of Angkor – are luring lots southwest coast. Its 27 thatched of visitors. Phnom Penh is a popular villas, each with a terrace and private From its capital Phnom Penh, to the arrival point for its river walks, pool, sit on stilts over the sea and exquisite temples of Angkor in Siem Reap fine restaurants and sleek hotels, a forested hillside. Enjoy splendid such as The Governor’s House isolation – the only neighbours (governorshouse.net), with period and are fishing villages and rainforest From Siem Reap, head southwest mod furnishings in a redesigned creatures – and indulge mind and to admire the French-colonial colonial mansion, and The Villa body, or get active and snorkel or architecture of sleepy Battambang, Paradiso (thevillaparadiso.com), an kayak in the clear waters, or take and enjoy the undulating countryside elegant residence in a Khmer villa. boat trips to nearby islands. as you ride the famous Bamboo Train (visitbattambang.com/bamboo- train), a small, motorised platform used by farmers to transport produce. Despite the crowds, the angular Angkorian temples around Siem One hour’s drive east from Reap are always captivating, Sihanoukville is the charmingly especially when viewed from Direct flights from the capital slow-motion town of Kampot, set above. Helicopters Cambodia Phnom Penh to the coastal town amid coffee and pepper plantations. (helicopterscambodia.com) provides of Sihanoukville provide easy Here, the recently renovated The photo-friendly flyovers of Angkor access for exploring southern Columns (the-columns.com) hotel is Wat, The Bayon, Banteay Srei and Cambodia. ABOUTAsia Travel housed in a French-colonial building floating villages on Tonle Sap Lake, (aboutasiatravel.com) will take you near the riverfront. Daytrips can plus the less visited hilltop Phnom to spot dolphins off the beaches of be arranged to Preah Monivong Krom temple that glows salmon-pink Ream National Park, and zip by National Park (aka Bokor National at sunset. Recently refurbished by speedboat across paddy-fields to the Park) to visit Bokor Hill Station – a starchitect Bill Bensley, Shinta Mani remote island of Phnom Da. mountaintop town of 1920s hotels, (shintamani.com) is Siem Reap’s most casino and churches built as a decadent overnight stay. mountaintop enclave. traveller | promotion

Asiaancient + modern

this polished venue has spectacular If prime positioning is important, Clockwise from top: Halong Bay; skyline views. Join the convivial Park Hyatt Saigon (saigon.park. Mekong Delta; the lobby of Park Hyatt Saigon local party, high above ’s hyatt.com) overlooks the fine Opera largest city, set to dine, drink and House on central Lam Son Square. Vietnam’s capital, the charming dance into the early hours. After exploring HCMC’s retro northern city of , is also its architecture, markets and museums, cultural heartland. More cerebral the hotel offers an escape from and less hurried than HCMC, its the city to explore the picturesque galleries, heritage courtyards and ’s newfound Mekong Delta Tour. Journey into pavement cafes implore you to hedonism is a world away from its the surrounding countryside and linger awhile. Abercrombie & conflict-ravaged 20th century. The terraces rice paddies before boarding Kent (abercrombiekent.com) will guide brutal realities of the “American a motorised sampan (wooden boat) you around its Parisian boulevards War” in the 1960s and 1970s to leisurely cruise along the Delta’s and Chinese temples by cyclo (a are graphically retold through narrow waterways. Sample fruits three-wheel bicycle), taking in a photos, articles and captured in the shade of a farmer’s garden traditional water puppet show, and US military hardware at the War before navigating small, winding exploring the atmospheric One Remnants Museum. Its equally channels to lunch, where the Pillar Pagoda. compelling counterpart in Hanoi, speciality dish is ‘elephant ear fish’. the Vietnam Military History Museum (btlsqsvn.org.vn), also Then head northeast to sail on the Emeraude (emeraude-cruises.com) around Halong Bay’s enigmatic karst formations and limestone caves, created over hundreds of millions Vietnam of years. A replica of an early 19th- High life in Ho Chi Minh City, culture in century paddle wheel steamer, Hanoi and the beauty of Halong Bay Emeraude’s modern history began in 1999, when French entrepreneur f a single venue embodies details the violent struggle to break Eric Merlin was rummaging in a Vietnam’s transforming zeitgeist, free from rule – flea market and unearthed it has to be the lofty Chill whose legacy remains evident in sepia-tinted postcards of the original Skybar (chillsaigon.com) on its cuisine (including, of course, steamer. Today, the Emeraude Ithe 26th and 27th floors of the delicious coffee and baguettes) and recreates those pioneering overnight AB Tower in Ho Chi Minh City architecture of HCMC and Hanoi. cruises through the monumental (formerly Saigon). Designed by the karsts and islets under the watch of team behind Bangkok’s Sirocco, a French captain. TRAVELLERTRAVELLER || PROMOTIONPROMOTION

Asiaancient + modern it an endearing experience for rail enthusiasts. Yangon’s once-grand colonial architecture is slowly being restored. After a stroll around the historic centre, hail a cab to Shwedagon, a Bagan is integrated into most 2,500-year-old complex of golden Myanmar tours, including Buddhist stupas. The 98-metre Abercrombie & Kent’s 11-day central stupa glints pure gold at Burmese Heritage trip, which sunset. If you have extra time, combines a starlight temple dinner The Strand can arrange a private at Bagan with an Ayeyerwady excursion to Kyaikhtyo (Golden) river cruise, the sites of Yangon, Rock, a 25-feet high granite boulder pagodas of Mandalay and tranquil shaped like a stupa, that is perched Inle Lake. Balloons Over Bagan on a cliff edge and covered in gold (easternsafaris.com) drift their hot-air leaves by Buddhist pilgrims. balloons daily above the Bagan ruins and Ayayerwady Delta at sunrise and sunset (From October to March only). The beauty of Burma stretches far beyond Yangon, and the 1,000-year- old temple ruins of Bagan are essential viewing. Independent River journeys are a great way to travel options are two-fold, a one- traverse Myanmar. In July, Orient hour flight or a 16-hour jaunt on the Express will launch Orcaella, a Myanmar Not just for the intrepid traveller, Myanmar is fast­becoming a golden destination for all

ntil recently, the political situation in Myanmar and rudimentary infrastructure meant that Uonly intrepid travellers visited. A reformist agenda is now luring camera-toting folk en masse to this ethereal land of golden pagodas, ancient ruins and mist-laced lakes and mountains. While independent travel is possible, terrains and timetables remain irregular, and several tours take in the highlights.

deluxe 50-passenger river cruiser that will meander the Ayeyarwady Built in 1901, The Strand River between Yangon and Bhamo, (ghmhotels.com) was the well-heeled or along the less-travelled Chindwin residence of choice in old Rangoon Rover, with onshore experiences (now Yangon), hosting literary including a candlelit street market luminaries such as Kipling, Coward ingredient shopping at a local Bagan Express train from Yangon’s and a monastery housing the Shwe and Orwell, and a timeless glamour market in a 1970s blue Mazda taxi, central station. It’s a slightly bumpy Sagar Buddha, carved from a single pervades the marbled lounges and then returns to the hotel kitchen to ride – certainly not luxurious – but trunk of wood. tiled terraces. Executive Chef Iain demonstrate how to prepare a local private cabins can be booked, and Murray, at Yangon’s other heritage staple: pickled green tea-leaf salad the time-warped rural landscapes Clockwise from top left: Balloons Over hotel The Governor’s Residence with butterbeans, peanuts, sesame, of the interior and friendly locals Bagan; exterior of The Strand; the pool at (governorsresidence.com), takes guests dried shrimps and chilli. bearing snacks at each stop make The Governor's Residence traveller | promotion

Asiaancient + modern

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!Hayes & Jarvis !Etihad hayesandjarvis.co.uk etihadair.co.uk 0844 855 4488 !Eva Air Tour operators !ITC evaair.com !Abercrombie & Kent itcclassics.co.uk abercrombiekent.co.uk 01244 355 550 !Korean Air 0845 485 1552 koreanair.com !Kuoni !Ampersand Travel kuoni.co.uk !JAL ampersandtravel.com 01306 747 002 uk.jal.com 0207 289 6100 !Lightfoot Travel !Malaysia Airlines !Carrier lightfoottravel.com malaysiaairlines.com carrier.co.uk (based in Asia for on- 0161 491 7630 the-ground advice) !Qantas qantas.com.au !Cleveland Collection !Red Savannah clevelandcollection.co.uk redsavannah.com !Qatar Airways 0207 843 3531 01242 787 800 qatarairways.com

!Trailfinders !Royal Brunei Air trailfinders.com bruneiair.com 0207 368 1200 Directory !Singapore Airlines !Wendy Wu singaporeair.com Find your way around Asia with these wendywutours.co.uk travel operators and airlines 0844 875 2433 !Thai Airwaysclockwise from thaiairways.co.uktop: ibus endae renduntum la Words: Gary Bowerman Airlines porepro doluptat !British Airways !Vietnam Airlinespliquid magnam britishairways.com vietnamairlines.comeum aut ipsae entistem eat. boribus, exceped !Cathay Pacific !Virgin Atlanticquodi blaboru cathaypacific.com virgin-atlantic.com

Tea Plantations on a hazy morning, Cameron Highlands, Malaysia Asia section fonts with thanks to com4t­fff.seesaa.net and Pia Frauss