Leah Travels France

October By Leah Walker

28 Travel Leah Travels France

October By Leah Walker Each month, our Editor-at-Large Check In and resident, Leah Walker, is Opened in March of 2015, Maison opening her French address book. Souquets is a five-star boutique She’ll share the latest, greatest, hotel in Paris’s up-and-coming area little known, classic and up-and- of South Pigalle (SoPi). A former coming finds in her adopted home , the hotel was once run by country. Find more travel tidbits Madame Souquet during the early on her website, LeahTravels.com 1900s. The neighborhood south of and get your daily French dose and near the Moulin from her Instagram, LeahTravels. Rouge is still a bit rough around Visit this Museum the edges, with plenty of massage parlors and adult shops, but the ith nearly 1,200 works gentrification is evident with from artists such as its trendy bars and restaurants. Andy Warhol, Alain In keeping with the spirit of the Jacquet, David Tremlett area and the building’s past, famed and Cesar Arman, French designer, Jacques Garcia, Wthe Museum of Modern Art and melded his signature baroque style Contemporary Art (MAMAC) is using antiques from the 18th a must-visit when in Nice. century to create a modern, French classic. As part of the Documenting art from the 1960s Small Luxury Hotels of the World, until today, the MAMAC is nearly Maison Souquets feels like a 50,000 square feet of avant-garde home rather than a hotel. works from Europe and the USA. The building is just as impressive as the The lobby mimics a living room, art inside. Greeting visitors are while the adjoining bar has an massive sculptures on the esplanade old-school library look, with its Niki de Saint Phalle by artists like rich wood, plush fabrics and cozy Alexander Calder and Bernar Venet. corners. Breakfast is served in the And with glass passageways bright, mirror-filled Winter Garden, connecting the four square towers, with a small outdoor space that don’t miss going to one of the can be used by smokers. In the rooftop terraces for an excellent basement, there is a large pool (by view over Nice. Admission is €10 Paris standards), a steam room and and is closed on Mondays. Museum massage room, which can be booked of Modern Art and Contemporary 24-hours a day. The entire space can Art, Place Yves Klein, 06364 Nice be exclusively reserved by guests

29 for an hour each day for the utmost privacy.

The fourteen rooms and six junior suites are named for a famous and uniquely designed. From Napoleon III to Japanese to Art Nouveau, the finest silks, tasseled lamps, handpicked antiques and Hermes toiletries unify the rooms. This petite hotel is absolutely big on style, luxury and character. Maison Souquet, 10 rue de Bruxelles, 75009 Paris Sample this Specialty Marseille is synonymous with bouillabaisse, a seafood soup that was originally made by fishermen in France’s second city. The original recipe is cause for debate, but Provençal herbs and spices are used to make the broth, while bony local Mediterranean rockfish and sometimes various types of shellfish are the heart of this traditional dish. In many restaurants such as Miramar, the broth is first served with bread and rouille, a sauce made from olive oil, garlic breadcrumbs, saffron and chili peppers. The fish is then brought out on a large platter, deboned table side and placed into

30 Travel

the broth-filled bowls. It’s as much that just serves really good drinks. about presentation as the taste, Prior to opening the bar, owners, and a trip to Marseille is incomplete Anthony and Kevin, worked at the without sampling bouillabaisse. historical Hotel De Crillion before it Restaurant Miramar, 12 Quai du closed for renovations. At L’Ambre, Port, 13002 Marseille handcrafted cocktails are made with the freshest ingredients, while Take this Tour the selection of spirits is inspiring It was in 1715 that Englishman, for a bar of its size. L’Ambre has a Jean Martell, left his home in Jersey neighborhood feel, where regulars to begin trading eaux-de-vie in are called by name and first-timers Cognac. This year, Martell Cognac are greeted just as warmly. Live celebrates its 300th anniversary. music can often be heard in the Lovers and those curious about evening and a limited tapas menu is Cognac are invited to take Martell’s available. L’Ambre, 29 rue Brunel, hour-long tour. While exploring the 75017 Paris grounds of the oldest of the great Cognac houses, visitors will not Chat with a Concierge only learn the origins of Martell I sat down with Yannick Bastoni, the by touring Jean Martell’s modest, Chief Concierge at Hôtel Fouquet’s limestone home, but also historical Barrière in Paris, for insight on storehouses. Through a series some of his favorite things from of exhibits, the tour takes guests the City of Light. from the grape to the glass. Displays of vines and soil samples Leah Walker: What restaurant from the different crus make the would you choose for a words of the expert guide come to special dinner? life, while a room showcasing the Yannick Bastoni: I love to start barrel-making process rounds out with a drink at Hôtel Costes. After, the Cognac education. Centuries I’ll eat Japanese at Kinugawa in the of Martell Cognac bottles and 1st arrondissement, just around the hand-written ledgers are on display back of Hôtel Le Meurice on Rue du and represent the evolution of the Mont Thabor. Another place for brand. For those over the age of dinner would be at Monsieur Bleu, eighteen, a tasting is available in a restaurant inside Palais Tokyo. It Martell’s shop to complete the tour. has a terrace overlooking the Eiffel Martell & Co, 7 Place Edouard Tower, and in the summer, they use Martell, 16100 Cognac the terrace for aperitifs and live music from 7 p.m. After drinks, go Fine Dining inside for dinner. I’m sure you can It’s a family affair at the two-star find better food in the trendier Michelin rated Albert 1er in restaurants, but the atmosphere, Chamonix. Spanning five ambiance and people there is generations, current head chef, funnier than maybe in a proper Pierre Maillet, took over the French restaurant. Hôtel Costes, restaurant from his father-in-law, 239-241 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Pierre Carrier. Paris; Kinugawa, 9 Rue du Mont Thabor, 75001 Paris; Monsieur Bleu, style, even for Parisians? and croissant while reading the The unfussy and natural menu is not 20 Avenue de New York, 75116 Paris YB: When my family comes to Paris, newspaper in any of these types of only influenced by the surrounding we always end up going to the same places. I particularly like those in Mont-Blanc and nearby Piedmont LW: What is an ideal Saturday places. On Sunday afternoon, we go the 17th near Place des Ternes or region of Italy, but also Chef in Paris for you? to the Marais. It’s definitely a thing Parc Monceau, such as Le Courcelles. Maillet’s childhood in Toulouse and YB: I get out of Paris. I’m from tourists like to do. It’s really the Le Courcelles, 92 Boulevard de his work in restaurants along the Cannes in the South of France, only place that shops are open on Courcelles, 75017 Paris Mediterranean. Dishes are ever so I’m used to Nature. I play golf Sundays. But, everyone goes there, changing to reflect the freshest and am a member of the Paris even locals. It’s fun, lively, has great LW: What’s trendy in Paris now? ingredients available, but the cheese International Golf Club, which is shops and beautiful architecture. I YB: It’s trendy to be fit, but even trolley filled with special hard and the only course designed by Jack just love the area. This is something French people are starting to look soft cheeses from France and Italy, Nicklaus in France. There’s a that I enjoy doing, maybe not every at what they have on their plates— as well as a decadent dessert trolley, swimming pool, so I’d spend the Sunday, but every now and again, gluten-free and that sort of stuff are ever-present. Look to head day with my children. It’s about for sure. Le Marais, 3rd and 4th is getting more popular. It’s a really sommelier, Alain Gousse, for advice 35 kilometers from Paris and guests arrondissements special thing for us to go have a on the nearly 20,000 bottles of wine can pay to play with a member. nice lunch or dinner. It’s a great available in the cellar. Albert 1er, 38 However, the public can visit the LW: What is your favorite café notion of pleasure and sharing when route du Bouchet, 74400 Chamonix restaurant. The chef once worked in the city? we eat. Even though I’ve been Mont Blanc for Alain Ducasse, so it’s a nice YB: My favorite café isn’t one in brought up like this, I’ve always place to go for lunch. Paris particular, but it is a traditional looked after myself and checked Drink Up International Golf Club, 18 Route French brasserie. The decorations what I put in my stomach. Now, Just off of Avenue des Ternes in du Golf, 95560 Baillet-en-France and architecture must be we are understanding more and Paris’s 17th arrondissement is one traditional. I like places that have more what we are eating, and of the best cocktail bars in the city. LW: What classic Parisian been there for years. I really just that’s something pretty new for L’Ambre Bar is an unassuming place experience never goes out of love having an orange juice, coffee the French.

31