doTouringNORTH the Adirondack Coast NORTHSummer/Fall 2014 Summer/Fall 2014 Battle of Plattsburgh

Water Slack you in the waiting ‘Dacks for?

Summer/Fall 2014 |1 2 ­|DONORTH Summer/Fall 2014 |3 Photo by Seth Thomas

doTouringNORTH the Adirondack Coast IMAGINE WHAT YOU WILL ACCOMPLISH. Features doBattle Of Plattsburgh Touring8 TakingNORTH the you Adirondack inside the bicentennialCoast celebration. Plattsburgh’s Last Strand 25 A restored Wurlitzer revives an arts community. With Water 26 Water you waiting for? Here’s your guide to making a splash on the Adirondack Coast. Slackventures 36 Walkin’ the line deep in the ‘Dacks.

www.plattsburgh.edu 4 ­|DONORTH Summer/Fall 2014 |5 do Departments TouringNORTH the Adirondack Coast do Champlain Taste TouringNORTH the Adirondack Coast 11 Freestyling It Photo by Seth Thomas Sample Lake Placid’s locavore cuisine. 12 Five in Ten Hungry when you land? We’ve got you covered. ADVERTISE WITH US Lakeside Canvas 16 Beats, Eats and Bare Feets Contact us at [email protected] Music, food and campfires all summer. 22 Bright Idea for pricing ad specs. Come and Play awhile at Imaginarium children’s museum.

Open Air 24 Bump, Set, Spike! Killing it on the biggest beach in the states. 25 Violent Femmes Roller derby royalty finds a home in Northern .

Northern Archives 32 A Light in the Dark Visit the house and gravesite of a legendary abolitionist.

ADK I.Q. Tour Guide 48 Puzzles 50 Resource Index Test the peak of your knowledge.

6 ­|DONORTH Summer/Fall 2014 |7 theEDITOR

Dear reader, Editor-In-Chief Matt McDonald Managing Editor Natasha Courter In the midst of pondering my looming commencement and producing this Art Director Nicole Hebdon third issue of DoNorth, I had a thought: If Theodor Geisel’s “Oh, The Places Photo Editor Claire Durham You’ll Go!” is the bible for graduates from 1st to 16th grade, are tourism magazines the grown-up version? And what if Dr. Seuss made his own mag? Associate Editors 4 Christian Burek Ok, maybe I’m getting carried away. “Do Lorax” could be a bit depress- Luis Reyes ing. But “Oh, The Places You’ll Go!” is the most cliché graduation gift on Jonathan Schmitt 7 the planet for a reason. It entertains. It inspires. It reminds us to laugh and be 10 optimistic when we need to the most. Like any tourism magazine worth its Contributors 1 8 pages, we hope to do the same. Jenine AbedRabbo 6 Ebonyrose Bellamy 9 5 The difference is that DoNorth: Touring the Adirondack Coast isn’t just Tawnee Bradham any magazine because the Adirondack Coast isn’t just any place. In this issue, Nickolas Cavaliere you’ll wine and dine and slack the ‘Dacks; meet the Wurlitzer that’s reviving an Elizabeth R. Davidson arts community; pay homage to a famed abolitionist; paddle open water and Camille Daniels 3 2 dive to the shipwrecks below. You’ll relive the key battle in the at Monica D’Ippolito a re-enactment event 200 years in the making. Noelle Palumbo Elizabeth Reff Sound like a lot? Well, those aren’t the only things to add to your itinerary. Seth Thomas Ja’Pheth Toulson Now go forth, And DoNorth. Marketing Director Laura Colon

Business Manager Maureen Provost

Matt McDonald Marketing Associates Editor-in-Chief Yenhui Wu [email protected] Jessica Reilly

Technical Consultant Rene Burl

Faculty Advisors On the Cover Luke Cyphers Jennifer Meschinelli DoNorth GPS: Explore featured locations in this issue The Battle Of Plattsburgh is a weekend- Printer long event that commemorates a key battle Ovid Bell Press in the War of 1812. During the annual The Strand Theater page 45 A&M Scuba page 29 Point Au Roche State Park page 31 P. O. Box 370 re-enactment, the streets of downtown 1 23 Brinkerhoff Street 4 182 Green Valley Road 7 19 Camp Red Cloud Road Fulton, Mo, 65251 Plattsburgh are filled with actors and tour- Plattsburgh, NY 12901 Ellenburg Depot, NY 12935 Plattsburgh, NY 12901 (800) 835-8919 (518) 563-1604 (518) 565-6176 ists alike. This photo was taken beside Lake Plattsburgh City Beach page 24 Do North Champlain, the site of many naval battles 8 Beach Road during the war. Here, a re-enactor is envel- 101 Broad Street page 12 Kayak Shack page 30 Plattsburgh, NY 12901 oped in smoke smoldering from his antique Plattsburgh, NY 12901 Livingoods 697 Bear Swamp Road 5 3999 Route 9 rifle. The bicentennial celebration will take 2 Peru, NY 12972 Plattsburgh, NY 12901 Plattsburgh Airport page12 place in Plattsburgh during the first two (518) 643-2020 (518) 566-0505 9 42 Airport Road weeks of September. Plattsburgh, NY 12903 (518) 565-4795 SUNY Plattsburgh page 33 online donorthmag.com St. Regis Canoe Outfitters page 27 73 Dorsey Street 6 101 Broad Street MacDonough Monument page18 facebook.com/donorthmagazine 3 Saranac Lake, NY 12983 Plattsburgh, NY 12901 10 MacDonough Park @DoNorthmag (518)-891-1838 (518) 564-2000 City Hall Place Plattsburgh, NY 12901

8 ­|DONORTH Summer/Fall 2014 |9 champlainTASTE

Approved! Photo by Claire Durham Freestyling It Five star cuisine from your backyard

Photos by Monica D’Ippolito

In the kitchen, Chef Richard ground almonds. Also on the drink menu, been eating Richards cooking since the Brosseau spreads a little butter on each bun Freestyle offers New-York-brewed beers, beginning,” Hayes says. “I’ve never had Discovering a new world of wining and dining and then places them on the grill. It only which they frequently have on tap. something I didn’t like; usually I have takes about two minutes for the buns to After a few minutes Brosseau one of the specials because they’re really, turn golden brown. In a frying pan, he slips takes out the foie gras and adds a splash really good.” foie gras—a rich French delicacy made of Brandy before placing it in the oven This time, Hayes orders a There can be a moment of panic inviting. In low light, paintings line the walls, from duck or goose— into the oven. He again. Once the burger looks to be cooked specialty grilled cheese served with duck. when your server asks you what kind of and a fireplace sits next to the bar. It’s the then seasons a burger and places it on the medium-well, he adds chicken broth with “Wow,” he says when the plate arrives. wine you’d like and you’re forced to quickly ideal spot for a date or an evening with grill. The foie gras, he says, is from a farm a little salt and pepper. Then after a few “Duck on top of grilled cheese. I’ve nev- wade through a long list. I was only able to friends. Or, as a fellow customer put it, it’s a just across the border in Quebec. more minutes, he places the foie gras on seen that.” He bites into his sandwich give my waitress the slightest clues: I wanted place to unwind “after a looong day.” Chef Brosseau has always prided top of the burger in the frying pan. Now and looks up. “You can’t go wrong.” something red, preferably dry, and a blend. The lunch offerings are just as ex- himself on using local ingredients to create rich and buttery, it melts over the burger as -Monica D’Ippolito She listed a variety of options that fit my pansive as the dinner menu, and as a vegetar- tomato, feta, hummus. The mushrooms dishes that offer a mix of flavors unique to they both sizzle. criteria and brought me a small sample of a ian, I had plenty of options. I started with a bulked up the wrap into a substantial meal. the region. From the food to the décor to Juicy, flavorful, organic, fresh — it Spanish wine she thought I’d enjoy. It was salad that combined mixed greens with goat I enjoyed it with a side of sweet potato fries the vast drink menu, Lake Placid’s Freestyle tastes excellent. fantastic. But that seems to be the norm at cheese, walnuts, red onions and olives. It was and a spicy dipping sauce. Cuisine embodies Northern New York. “We’re not like any restaurant Irises Café & Wine Bar. served with light vinaigrette that didn’t over- The food and the relaxed atmo- “My philosophy was always to use putting out standard food. It’s different, in- Located in downtown Plattsburgh, power the flavors of the other ingredients. I sphere make Irises wonderful. No matter farms… that’s how I was raised in the busi- novative,” Brosseau says. “So when we do Irises has a bit of everything—martini ordered it small, but the portion was sizeable. the weather or the length of your day, you ness,” Brosseau says. a burger, we don’t just do a burger, we do specials on Wednesdays, live music on My main course was a pita wrap can find serenity inside. And a perfect glass While Brosseau is in charge of a foie gras burger, we take everything and the weekends and a rotating selection of that added Portobello mushrooms to usual of wine. -Seth Thomas the menu, co-owner Nikolay Wilen and elevate it a little bit.” monthly events. The inside is immediately Mediterranean fare—artichokes, olives, his wife Victoria Beliaeva add their spin The innovative dishes don’t stop on local charm, as they feature photos and at Freestyle’s burger selection. They high- Photo by Rachel Penders paintings to add a warm, local and homey light the menu. Some favorites include the feel to the restaurant. Portuguese Piri Piri Chicken and the Surf “We have a lot of local photog- and Turf. One Sweet Tasting Party raphy… we wanted to appeal to our local One fan of Brosseau’s cre- Sampling local treats at Plattsburgh’s food festival cliental; I think the tourists like it—defi- ations is Elizabethtown resident nitely has a vibe to it,” Wilen says. Bart Hayes, who travels to Maple candy hangs on the rack Bechard’s Sugar House near West October 11-13 in Plattsburgh’s Crete Civic While Chef Brosseau is a master, Lake Placid once or twice next to a tub of maple cream with spoons. Chazy, N.Y., is surrounded by 300 sugar ma- Center, alongside 30 other vendors and it’s not only the food that makes Freestyle a month, sometimes The sweet scent from a fresh batch of ple trees and 450 maple taps. Sap gradually 15 wineries. Cheese, apples, coffee, grill- unique. Bartender Paul Stelmack has made more, for Bros- maple coffee drifts through the sugar house. travels from the taps through a network of ing and vegetables join maple goodies on a name for himself by concocting original seau’s cuisine. Maple tea bags and maple sugar lay next lines into the main line, where it is collected the spread. The vendors welcome eaters drinks that also feature elements from his “I have to each other on a stand. A stack of home by the sap extractor and transported to a from all over as various bands accompany home-grown garden. Last summer’s most recipes for treats like maple-glazed carrots 1,200-gallon tank. Reverse osmosis extracts the tasting party with jazz, rock-and-roll popular drink, Strawberry Rhubarb Ricky, and maple-cheesecake bars await. Good up to 75 percent of the sap’s water, and UV and folk music. The Race to Taste Cook- was made from fresh strawberries and luck resisting. lights kill bacteria before the sap enters the ing Competition pits New York cooking rhubarb concentrate. evaporator. Within 40 minutes: authentic schools against one another as they use Freestyle also offers a variety New York maple syrup. festival-supplied ingredients to showcase of options on its specialized cocktail “I like a historic angle, but I’m “Maple is such a primary flavor of local farm products and impress the judges. menu, as well as dessert drinks like the North Country,” says Tammy Bechard. Cue the maple-glazed entrée. its alcoholic milkshakes— slowly trying to faze in new drink- What started as a hobby for her husband, Festival Chairman Tom Frey says, “Nutty Ice” contains making techniques that aren’t really Marvin, has grown into a full-fledged maple “It’s like nothing you ever had at home.” Amaretto, Brandy, operation, tempting taste buds since 1998. Tickets for the festival are available malted milk well exploited, covered or known Tammy and Marvin will share the at Elfs Farm Winery and Cider Mill (Platts- and about.” bounty of their hard work at the Adiron- burgh) for $25 and at the door for $30. dack Coast Wine, Cider and Food Festival, -Ja’Pheth Toulson A word from bartender Paul Stelmack 10 ­|DONORTH Summer/Fall 2014 |11 champlainTASTE Little Taste of France in Photo by Nickolas Cavaliere Five easy meals5 ten minutes10 from Plattsburgh’s airport

Photos by Jenine AbedRabbo Approved! The Hungry Bear

Hungry Bear feels like a warm old diner where families and friends meet to catch up. The menu has whatever you’re in the mood for, and there are enough options to satisfy the hungriest bear. Make yourself at home—it’s as cozy as grandma’s kitchen.

Aleka’s The scent of buttery desserts Delectably flaky, the croissant evokes a savory welcome into Plattsburgh’s melts in my mouth. The hot apple crepe’s Welcome to the Mediterranean. Everything tastes fresh and handmade, and no matter how you very own taste-of-France cuisine—a tucked aroma teases my nostrils before the plate say “gyro,” they’ll give you one. Our art director says not to leave without trying the spanako- away corner of what seems like a Champs- even reaches the table. It smells like it pita. Aleka’s is located in downtown Plattsburgh, so a post-meal stroll to antiques, clothing and Elysees café. Small tables for two to three belongs on grandma’s windowsill, topped jewelry shops is a must. are adorned with crocheted tablecloths and with a beret. The taste? Well, let’s just say I accented by mosaic chairs, creating a rose- allowed myself little time for reflection. like flower. Quiche Et Crêpe blossoms with Metzger has a nonchalant person- authenticity, and holy crepe can they back it up ality. It’s obvious that he prepares foods with delicious eats. and desserts not only to serve customers; Latitude 44 Bistro Owners Roger and Evelyn he loves what he does. “They have the best Metzger met each other about 25 years ago food in the world,” he says while discuss- You’re almost guaranteed to sit around and relax for a while at Latitude 44. For one, you’ll while Roger was visiting France on a self- ing his 16-year stay in France. “Everything’s find yourself salivating over names like “Mac and Cheese: Smoked Gouda and Pancetta” proclaimed “wild goose chase.” With his healthy and fresh.” He mimics these quali- and “Crab-Stuffed Sole with Roasted Red Pepper Cream Sauce” as you peruse the menu. wife Evelyn, a Rouen native—Normandy’s ties in his own recipes. Then you may zone out as you watch the chefs prepare intricate dishes. What’s more? You historic capital—he moved to the United The kitchen is like a chemistry haven’t even looked at the dessert menu yet. States. Montreal didn’t exactly complement lab, with both Mr. and Mrs. Metzger always his Iowa upbringing, so the couple settled mixing different ingredients, seeking the down in Plattsburgh, where they could stay unique. Some of their combinations seem close to the border and start a business. questionable, but they’re sensational—the A waitress (the only staff member pretzel-based, strawberry tart, a creamy and Livingoods on duty) greets me with a warm “hello” and crunchy treat that has a sweet transition; the motions me to sit anywhere I like, almost in chocolate chip apricot pie, a tangy velvet The Livingoods menu is diverse, but it will be hard to resist one of their signature “Seven Deadly a the-world-is-your-oyster sort of way. She delight Evelyn discovered one day . Burgers.” There’s one for each sin. They’re equally as friendly to meat-eaters as they are to vegetar- takes my drink order. A French vanilla cap- Light retreats from the small ians and beer drinkers. The new brewery will leave you with another set of difficult decisions. puccino sounds fitting. Silky and a tad salty, bistro. The music still lingers in the back- it fits like a warm glove on a cold day. ground, singer-songwriter styled with a soft Looking at a menu full of delecta- French voice. The French vanilla cappuc- ble soups and sandwiches as well as dessert cino is cool, but the place still feels warm. crepes, I decide to not hold back. My order Empty, but homely. Mr. Metzger is ready consists of a grilled croissant with ham to get back to work. But first, in a reserved McSweeney’s Red Hots topped with a mild beatcheal cheese (I won- yet passionate way as unique as the dishes der if it’s pasteurized?), a hot apple crepe he crafts, he assures me that he’d rather be McSweeney’s looks like a small-town burger joint, and it keeps things simple like one. Here, it’s and a chocolate bread pudding accompanied doing nothing else. variety. Sandwiches, chicken, burgers, and the menu’s best known item—Michigan Red Hots. If by two scoops of vanilla ice cream—“the “We love it,” he says. “We know the sun’s shining, take your food outside to the benches. most French,” advises Mr. Metzger. what we do is good.” -Nickolas Cavaliere -Jenine AbedRabbo

12 ­|DONORTH Summer/Fall 2014 |13 The air is crisp, and at the summit of Cascade Mountain, surrounding High Peaks are in view. Below, a sea of autumn foliage leads to networks of trails. Listed as number 36 in elevation, Cascade Mountain is one of the ’s 46 High Peaks waiting to be climbed. Depending on the skill levels of your hiking partners, you may want to start off simple with Porter Mountain, Mt. Colvin or Sawteeth before tackling giants like Mt. Skylight and Grey Peak. But no matter the difficulty of the mountain, pacing yourself and taking in your surroundings is critical. These trails are loaded with unique plant and animal life only seen in the Adirondacks. If rocks are slippery, be aware of how steep the trail is and how your body is reacting. Dress ac- cording to the weather, and be sure to pack an extra hoodie or sweater—summits can be chilly. Each of these High Peaks has beautiful views that everyone will enjoy and little quirks that make them stand out from the rest. -Ebonyrose Bellamy Photo by Alex Ayala

14 ­|DONORTH Summer/Fall 2014 |15 lakesideCANVAS

Beats, Eats and Quarry Gardens May-September

Heading north on Route 9 in Chazy, seven miles past Conroy’s Organ- ics, a wooden sign bearing a handwritten “Quarry Gardens” sits on the right side of the road, pointing out a gravelly dirt path to Kimberly LeClaire’s bungalow home. Green fields and woods, and a wooden lion standing on its hind legs, are more than LeClaire’s home. They’ve become her 10-year-old business: The Quarry Garden Vegetable and Garlic Farm. A roundup of North Country arts and music festivals “We started with one little garden, and it grew and grew and grew,” LeClaire says. CrowFest Backwoods Pondfest Bluegrass Festival Instead of traditional linear-plot farming, The Quarry Gardens uses circle August 16 August 8 & 9 September 11-14 gardens and even spiral gardens. “The way we garden is kind White skirts fly and whirl together. Festival goers who pull into Twin Campers and RVs line the outside of an art piece,” LeClaire says. “We use Bare feet kick dirt into the air as drums Ponds Campsite in Peru, N.Y., during of the racetrack at the Clinton County rocks and make fences with rocks, so our sound Caribbean tunes. Tie-dye-wearing August set up camp to a sampler of tunes— Fairgrounds, leading to the main stage. gardens are art.” dread heads and children alike sing and clap jazz, funk, reggae and even a little dubstep Dedicated fans brave the cold and windy From May to December, people along with the rhythm. fill the air. September days to support their favorite looking for spiritual stimulation can attend Fledging Crow Vegetables, a 12- Originally called Pondstock, a musicians at the Bluegrass Festival. the garden’s weekly Inipi sweat lodge cer- acre organic farm in Keeseville, N.Y., hosts festival vibe equal to that of Woodstock is Fair Manager Glenn Gillespie says emony held in the garden’s hidden back- its annual CrowFest on A. Robare Road, complete with a campsite emblazoned with popular demand brought the festival week- yard. Cochran and LeClaire lead the Inipi inviting people of all social groups and a large peace sign and an older generation end to Plattsburgh. and provide a comfortable environment ages to break free for one night and dance of tie-dye-clad hippies. “When I heard that Alburgh [Ver- for those who have never tried anything unshod till dawn. Backwoods Pondfest is gearing up mont] was not going to have a Bluegrass like it before. CrowFest began in 2010 as a for its eighth year; it was started by San- Festival four years ago, I started thinking During the Inipi, Cochran and potluck party to recognize Fledging Crow’s dra Bazzano as a way to have fun with her about doing it,” he says. “With a lot of LeClaire share earth wisdom. Participants Community Supported Agriculture mem- friends while local bands played on her land. encouragement from some folks, we did it.” sweat, give thanks, sweat, share feelings, bers, who purchase vegetable shares and For the past seven years, the event Bluegrass music is created us- sweat, sing songs, sweat some more and receive weekly organic produce in bulk has drawn crowds of locals and visitors ing mostly acoustic or stringed instru- breathe the surrounding nature. Needless Photos by Yessenia Funes throughout the season. Members used to from around the country. Other entertain- ments, such as a fiddle or a banjo. Another to say, we recommend an extra shirt. visit the farm to meet their food grow- ment has been popping up at Pondfest in trademark of the genre is when musicians Once the ceremony is over, ers. Now, the tradition has grown into a recent years, including fire spinners, frisbee perform improvised instrumental solos, il- soft grass comforts steaming bodies. The huge slumber party where fest-goers camp and arts and crafts. Vendors supply local lustrating technical skill and self-expression. silence becomes a lullaby and, as Cochran out and enjoy a homemade salad mix— food and artsy items such as glass-blown The Bluegrass Festival continues says, it reminds participants they are alive along with a folky funk and jazzy reggae souvenirs and homemade jewelry. to grow every year. Vendors sell a range of as they hear their heartbeat drumming soundtrack played by local bands. Last year’s “We’re bringing arts and culture goodies, from hand-stitched pillows to cat loudly in their ears. -Claire Durham and festival featured The Blind Owl Band and up here where it’s been missed for a while,” figurines and festival sweatshirts. The smell Yessenia Funes Big Slyde. says Lowell Wurster, a member of the host of fried dough emanates. And no matter Because Fledging Crow provides band, Lucid, and part of Backwoods Pro- how chilly the fall air, foot-stomping blue- the food, a connection forms, says Tim motions Inc. “It’s become a real grass will warm you up. Sussman, a farm volunteer. The customers music festival.” know whose hands have touched their pro- duce. The farmers know who chews their beets. And the music holds it all together.

16 ­|DONORTH Summer/Fall 2014 |17 Battle Of On the morning of Sept. 11, 1814, as celebrations and more as remembrances weapons, traditional garments and other 1,500 American troops clashed with 15,000 of the past—an opportunity to pay tribute souvenirs, such as gold coins and wooden British soldiers, the start of a key battle in to the fallen. swords, are available for purchase. Plattsburgh the War of 1812. America’s chances looked “We keep coming back hoping it A parade charges through down- equally as slim on the lake, where its small will change somehow but unfortunately it town Plattsburgh, signifying the midpoint Story by Kahla Persell, Luis Reyes and fleet was outgunned by the British Navy. always ends the same,” said Robert playfully. of the day’s celebrations. But in a sudden stroke of luck, dying winds Back in downtown Plattsburgh, At the first signs of sunset, many Nickolas Cavaliere left the British unable to maneuver. tents are scattered on top of the hill over- head home to change into more formal Photos by Alex Ayala With an immobile fleet and no looking . They invade the attire and prepare for the night’s fes- word about the size of the American area with traditional activities such as candle tivities—specifically the Macomb Ball, an ground troops, British Lieutenant General making and butter churning. Lemonade English country style dance. Women dress George Prevost had no choice but to re- stands refresh tired or somber guests. in ball gowns and long white gloves from treat. The unlikely American victory denied Beneath the towering Macdonough monu- the period, while the men don trousers with Britain territorial claim over the United ment, the interactive old-time village gives fancy dress shirts and jackets. The casual States. The battle was a prelude to the sign- parents and children a feel of what a 19th onlooker might compare the style of dress On a half-cloudy, chilly September morning, soldiers kiss and hug their loved ones goodbye. Troops chatter as they begin their ing of the Treaty of , which officially century village was like. Animals from rab- to a scene from Downton Abbey. Plenty of march. Cannon shots roar unexpectedly. Men, both young and old, get into formation before disappearing in a mist of gun smoke. Red ended the war. bits to roosters pop in and out of their pens solid colors—simple yet regal. and orange flares shoot from their muskets and linger in the air for a split second in time. The battle re-enactment rages on. The First Now in Plattsburgh, descendants while fur traders and doctors examine their Soldiers take leave, mingling with Bloody Encounter, as it is known by locals in Beekmantown, N.Y., just a few miles away from the festivities, is the kickoff event for the of those long departed and history enthusi- fox pelts and femurs. the aristocracy and commoners alike. Faux annual Battle of Plattsburgh Commemoration Weekend. This year marks the 200-year anniversary of The Battle of Plattsburgh, the asts alike try to live a moment in the legend. Fire dancers and other entertainers candles recreate dim ballroom lighting as decisive battle in the War of 1812. Visitors and participants range from all line the streets alongside various vendors. men and women interact in what could be a parts of the globe, and they all have their Plattsburgh’s Trinity Episcopal Church scene from a Jane Austen novel. They take own stories. transforms into the Israel Green Tavern; their places opposite one another ready to “Excuse me boys, I must stand for weary travelers quench their thirst with begin the dance. The stringed instruments the British,” says Linda Galvin, throwing Plucky Rooster Ale—named for a local leg- strike up a song, and the caller tells the herself into character as the soldiers push end. Brewed in Plattsburgh, this ale is made crowd to “gypsy” to their neighbors. the American troops off the battlefront. with traditional ingredients that recall the “Only a heathen would dance Originally from London, Galvin and her liking of George Washington and Thomas without gloves,” the British drummer husband, Gregory Heppenstall, attend Jefferson. It’s named for a rooster aboard warns. While period and formal dress is not many reenactments within driving distance McDonough’s ship, the USS Saratoga. required to attend the ball, it is encouraged. of their home in Ottawa. The Battle of On the banks of Plattsburgh’s bay The highlight of the evening, the ball is the Plattsburgh is one of their favorites. They rests an encampment of British soldiers centerpiece of the weekend for many. are two of the many spectators who im- adjacent to the historical Kent-DeLord “I know two or three couples who merse themselves in the proceedings. House, which they used as a base for opera- come for the ball. They do other things Jo and Robert Carter, Wiltshire, tion and protection during their siege. The because they’re here, but this is the main England natives honoring Jo’s ancestor, encampment is open to the public and draw,” says Ian Johns who traveled north Lt. Colonel James Wellington, a significant offers a view into a different world. Women from Mount Holly, N.J., with his wife. casualty in the 1814 battle, find themselves in colonial garb and cherubic children, who First timers’ nerves are quickly viscerally connected to the events. They see look like mini-Paul Reveres, churn butter. subdued when they realize the more skilled the Battle of Plattsburgh reenactments less The scent hits you like a stone wall. Replica dancers are patient and helpful. All the steps

18 ­|DONORTH Summer/Fall 2014 |19 are explained before the dancing begins Thousands will come to and then called out during the dance. celebrate the American underdogs who Participants frequently switch partners, pushed their way to lasting independence. so beginners have the opportunity to They will drink, dance and remember. learn from experts. Whether you join them as a mellow “If you can count to eight and picture-taker or embody a character from you know your left from your right, you’ll the past, you will take part in an event do okay,” says Johns. 200 years in the making. Following a hearty evening of dancing and drinking, visitors spend the morning overlooking the bay, where British approach. On the op- posite side of shore, men in blue jackets light the cannons and fire at will. Land troops, commanded by General Alexan- der Macomb defend the lakefront while Commodore McDonough leads naval forces on the open water. One by one, men begin to fall until the British retreat. Local historian and re-enactor Craig Russell who plays General Alexander The Bicentennial Rundown 8 Everleth Drive | Plattsburgh New York | 12901 Macomb was inspired when he heard the September 11-14, 2014 story of The First Bloody Encounter. Champlain1812.com “I saw all this potential to make • Free WiFi • Business Center this unique, to do something in some In order to attend the vari- real terrain. I’ve never done anything that • Fitness Center • Power of Three Member ous events at the 2014 Battle offered that. I’ve been re-enacting since • Deluxe Daybreak Breakfast • Pizza and Movie Packages 1965,” he says. of Plattsburgh, visitors will be Battle of Plattsburgh event or- required to purchase a $10 but- • Indoor/Outdoor Pool & Jacuzzi • Park and Fly Packages ganizer Kit Booth estimates that 12,000- ton or T-Shirt. In addition to 15,000 people will attend the bicenten- the two reenactments and the nial. “We’ve been planning this event Macomb Ball, notable events Hometown Hospitality, Call for your Reservation 518-561-0403 since 1998,” he says. “It will be bigger for the Bicentennial include than ever before.” “Battling at Plattsburgh,” a nev- Quilt-makers will showcase er-before-seen musical about their finest work at an exhibit. A musical the battle that will run Septem- written by Dr. Richard Frost will be pre- sented three times in SUNY Plattsburgh’s ber 4, 5, and 7 on the SUNY Hartman Theater. A massive memo- Plattsburgh campus, and a rial for fallen soldiers, both British and Royal Marine band concert at American, will take place on Crab Island, the Strand theater on Saturday featuring Navy and Army service bands the 13th. Visitors will also be and fireworks. Booth also revealed that a surprise reenactment will take place—a able to recreate the march of full sized replica ship may open its sails in the British troops and sample Plattsburgh’s harbor. life in 1814 in re-enactor boot With a sought budget of $170,000— camp. As always, authentic more than double last year’s—the festivi- entertainment, drink and food ties are falling into place. The event is funded by donations and orchestrated by will span the weekend. volunteers. “It’s been a real big splash from the get-go,” says Booth. The area is home to many who value the Battle of Plattsburgh’s signifi- cance within the War of 1812. Even Win- ston Churchill referred to it as a “decisive battle of the war”—bloody hell! www.daysinnplattsburgh.com 20 ­|DONORTH Summer/Fall 2014 |21 lakesideCANVAS OPEN YEAR ROUND!

Photos by Claire Durham More to Explore Play and discover at Plattsburgh’s children’s museum May-October, Open Daily Bright Idea November-April, reservations suggested Pint-sized researchers conduct by Head of Visitor Services Tara Twomey- for the most part he likes to mess with all experiments and stand on tip-toe to study Mulvey. the stuff.” small insects through microscopes in the “Tara plays the guitar, or she’ll Aside from the weekly programs, stem lab. Other young scientists in the main play classical music for the kids,” Frederick multiple exhibits allow children to explore exhibit room play doctor using wall lights says. “On certain holidays she’ll play themed and experiment any day of the week. Rodri- for fake X-rays, while others practice tooth music. It just depends on what is going on guez appreciates the sense of community brushing in a real dentist chair. And that’s and what the kids are interested in.” the Imaginarium has formed. only a quick introduction to Plattsburgh’s Twomey-Mulvey says she also “On busy days it’s nice to inter- Imaginarium Children’s Museum. plays the mad scientist for “Science Friday.” act with all the kids that come in,” he says. “The community’s been really Each session allows the children and their “It’s very nice to have something like this.” great with supporting us and donating families to participate in a hands-on science -Elizabeth Reff items,” says museum manager Kelly Freder- experiment where they learn about life ick. “We have a dentist chair donated from science and lab safety. In true Plattsburgh one of the local dentists, and Dr. Webber’s fashion, children once learned how to make office just gave us a grant for updating the snow as part of a weather-themed activity. physician’s office. We have some great stuff While these two programs have going on.” been occurring regularly, recently added to Imaginarium offers dynamic activi- the weekly schedule is Workout Wednesday. ties that will not only be educational, but Led by Vickie Martineau, the event encour- Imaginarium is located at 4709 State also bring children closer to their families. ages kids to live healthier. Route 9, Plattsburgh, N.Y. For more “Our main goal is to have a “We brought in equipment, music information, email the museum at parent-led museum that basically encour- and activities to increase exercise in young info@imaginariumchildrensmuseum. ages them to spend more quality time with children,” says Martineau. “We have new org or call 518-324-7426. their kids and to have a safe and educational climber equipment, a few exercise mats, a place to go have fun while learning,” few balance beams for their activity and I Frederick says. use music to get them moving.” The museum is open every day from Imaginarium holds three weekly Plattsburgh resident Jordan Rodri- 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. The cost is $5 per events open to all families—Music Monday, guez says he and his wife, past Imaginarium person older than 2 years old. Science Friday and Workout Wednesday. members, often take their son on outings to NEW IN Music Mondays give children and the museum. 2013! EXIT 34 & 35 OFF I-87 their parents the opportunity to learn about “He likes to play with the toys and 12 MI. SOUTH OF PLATTSBURGH ON ROUTE 9 various types of music. They play instru- check out the fun exhibits,” Rodriguez says. (518) 834-7454 • AUSABLECHASM.COM ments and participate in music parades led “We’ve been here for birthday parties, but GPS COORDINATES/44.525149 -73.462702 22 ­|DONORTH Summer/Fall 2014 |23 openAIR Bump, Set, Spike! Serving up the Northeast’s first pro volleyball tournament Violent Femmes Rolling with the derby girls

Worthy of a postcard from para- communities, and for them to choose you, we have a contingency of athletes from dise, the fine-grained sand of Plattsburgh it makes (our community) proud, and so Canada,” Balling says. “Hopefully we can City Beach comprises one of the largest am I. It’s a great thing for the region,” says have a Canada versus U.S. type challenge.” With helmets tight, arms steady local food co-op before battling seagulls for , , New Hampshire, Western freshwater beaches in the . It Steve Peters, Plattsburgh’s superintendent Professional volleyball player, Lar- and skates poised, eight women crouch, a deserted parking lot near a water treat- New York and Canada’s best. has played host to sporting leagues, fitness of recreation. issa Witherspoon says she loved the idea of gazing over their shoulders at the lanky ment facility. If they’re accepted into the classes, major cup events and live music The tournament will feature a attracting Canadian athletes to the tourna- skater behind them. A hush overtakes the Four years later, the team, which Women’s Flat Track Derby Association festivals. On July 26, 2014, the beach will junior and amateur division, so local and as- ment. She believes the tour will expand the rambunctious crowd as the announcer starts has grown to about 15 skaters, has crowned (WFTDA), the NBA of the derby world, host its first ever Pro-Am Volleyball tourna- piring beach volleyball athletes can contend sport across the border. bellowing: “The legend of these tracks. the recreational center its citadel and now the team’s reign would extend far north of ment—the Extreme Volleyball Professionals on the same stage as the professionals. “It’s been expanding exponentially Right here.” battles humans instead of birds. Montreal and west into and Illinois. (EVP) Tour. “We’ve been doing this for 20 as years have gone by,” Witherspoon says. “Five seconds,” the referee cues. The Jills’ abode maintains an Joining that national ranking system would Plattsburgh City Beach features years Pro-Am style,” Balling says. “I think The 28-year old Buffalo native is familiar The air horn sounds, and cheers open-door policy and a welcome commit- bolster their fan base. over a mile of sandy beach, a swimming that’s why we’ve had so much participation with . She believes adding erupt from the bleachers as the skaters tee, which greets between 300 and 900 spec- The team is ready. The Lumber area, tables and grills, a concession stand, in the sport; people love to play volleyball.” a northeast tournament not only benefits charge down a straightaway, elbowing and tators at each bout. They come to watch Jills hold three two-hour practices per kayak rentals and a nature trail. The beach Rosi Cummings, a 22-year-old EVP tour and its athletes but also spreads tripping each other as they round the flat women hammer each other for an hour. week. Each woman maintains her own itself is smooth, with minimal rocks—per- Plattsburgh resident, has been entrenched beach volleyball throughout the area. oval track’s curve and speed down the Connie Mendeville, a first-year Jill, weight lifting, aerobics and plyometrics fect for volleyball. in the sport since she was in middle school. “Anything to grow awareness for opposite stretch. They flip-flop positions, has played a gamut of sports, but she says workout schedule. The reward: winning in “To have the Adirondacks host, Cummings played a year at Springfield Col- this awesome sport, especially in a place elbows flying. The last skater passes the nothing compares to derby. front of a packed gym. we’re very excited,” says Ross Balling, EVP lege and three years at SUNY Plattsburgh. where beach volleyball isn’t as relevant,” pack, her hands slashing against her side to “It’s exhilarating. You are allowed Their schedule sends the team to Tour commissioner. “As a kid, I heard She has played in numerous tournaments Witherspoon says, “brings people to the signal end of play, before the group tumbles to show an aggression that you can’t show away bouts during summer 2014. But the about the Adirondacks as a destination for and leagues, and she jumped at the opportu- sport and is great for the community.” to the gym floor. in other sports,” she says. “I get to hit and Lumber Jills will return to Plattsburgh to summer vacation; we’re a summer beach nity to enter this tournament. Peters expects at least a few thou- Welcome to women’s flat track to hit as much as I physically can. No other defend their hardwood on September 20 volleyball tour, so we want to go to a place “It’s such a great opportunity to sand people to attend the July event. He’s roller derby. Lumber Jill style. sport reaches this level.” and October 18. that attracts people in the summer.” talk to players at a high level,” Cummings honored that Plattsburgh will be the first The Plattsburgh Lumber Jills, the This is especially true for women. With helmets and skates instead EVP Tour has aimed to spread the says. “I want to be a collegiate coach, and northeastern city to host the professional only roller derby team in the Adirondacks, “I love it. Your adrenaline is rush- of tiaras and slippers, the modern royals sport of beach volleyball since 1994 and has just to have the opportunity to make con- tournament—if for no other reason than to are North Country royalty. In 2010, the ing,” says Irene Yadao, jammer blocker for don’t intend to relinquish their reign. held tournaments in Florida, North Caro- nections like that is incredible.” share the scenery with people from all over. princesses rolled into Plattsburgh, proving Rockland, Maine’s Rock Coast Rollers. lina, , Mississippi and even Wiscon- A big factor that helped bring the “People should see what we see -Maura Danehey fierce, fit females are just as powerful as In Plattsburgh, the sport has- sin. But the EVP Adirondack Pro-Am Tour national tournament to Plattsburgh City every day,” says Peters. “It’s just a remark- dainty, demure dames. The team, originally transformed former athletes, ages 20 to 36, will mark the first time the event has ever Beach was the influence of Canadian Olym- able view.” -Monica D’Ippolito a group of six with limited skating experi- into top-tier competitors who, with plaid been held in the Northeast. pians from around the area who will likely ence, held its first practices above the city’s skirts, edgy hairstyles and fiery spirits, host “We’ve had a lot of people express participate in the event. their pleasure. They had a choice of a few “I think the one thing is that

All sorts of athletes and day-trippers can take advantage of Plattsburgh’s city beach. Photo by Jenine AbedRabbo

Photos by Seth Thomas and Alex Ayala

24 ­|DONORTH Summer/Fall 2014 |25 With Water Can-Do Canoe Stories by Seth Thomas Photo by Matt McDonald

For me the hardest part of yoga like how to properly angle the blades of the isn’t balancing or inversions. It’s the final paddle, will come in time. move, Savasana, where you allow stray Coordinating my posture with the thoughts to leave your mind and relax. movements is challenging; working up a Inevitably, random thoughts disrupt my sweat is easy. As I enter the creek connect- peaceful state, bothering me with reminders ing Floodwood with Little Square Pond, an and tasks. But last fall as I paddled my way area requiring less speed and more technical through the Adirondacks, I found that calm, skill, I weave through downed branches and meditative place. glide around tight corners under overhang- About 30 minutes outside Saranac ing branches. The air is colder here. The Lake, a network of lakes, ponds and flows snow on the riverbank stretches deeper into called the St. Regis Canoe Area circles the the forest. hills. My journey begins on Floodwood My sweat dries and cools before I Pond, the northern-most body of water on leave the shadows of the shallow creek and this chain. reach another sunny patch of water. It’s a clear November day, and de- I drift along, noticing the impossible quiet spite a light dusting of snow, temperatures on this side of the creek. I remember all the climb into the 40s. It’s been years since I times at yoga when I was instructed to “be last paddled, but my experienced compan- still” and was unable to make it happen. ion gives me the basics. Joe van Putten is a But on the water, where you can’t retired art professor and an avid outdoors- hear birds overhead or trees buckling in man—likely one of the only people I’d find the wind, stray thoughts dissipate. I allow not deterred by the snow. He begins with myself to breathe and absorb the sunlight. I square one. Arms straight. Back sturdy. listen to the overwhelming silence. Tight core. The subtleties of the movement, Finally, I relax. St. Regis Canoe Outfitters

St. Regis Canoe Outfitters has a “We offer a lot for paddlers, both boats for trips they’re planning in advance. big backyard—big, as in 50 lakes and ponds beginners and advanced,” Cilley says. The outfitter has it all: transporta- and 18,000 acres of Adirondack wilderness. Seven different outfitting packages tion bags, food to take with you and a wide The store has been open for 30 range from day-trips downriver to multi-day range of canoes and kayaks. If all you need years, and owner Dave Cilley describes it as excursions through primitive areas. Rivers is to rent a paddle or life preserver for the Fifty miles of Lake Champlain coastline spans Clinton County’s west the first “complete” outfitter in the region. and portages connect a network of ponds, day, they have that, too. Ask about routes, side, a gateway to both open water and the legendary depths below. In the They rent camping gear and boats, and their creating a large loop that provides a variety and pick one that sounds right. It’s hard to guides are Adirondack experts. of camping opportunities. Average rent- go wrong.-Seth Thomas east, the Adirondack Park, home to more than 3,000 lakes and 30,000 miles als cover four days, and visitors often rent of streams and rivers. If water be the essence of life, play on. Photo by Seth Thomas 26 ­|DONORTH Summer/Fall 2014 |27 We Will Wreck You Story by Tawnee Bradham Photos by Mike Dorsey

Photo by Seth Thomas What’s Up with SUP? Story by Maura Danehey

Just around the river bend. I look down the insoles of my feet to the trape- strong and thankful for the beautiful au- More than three hundred ship- But even better to some Adiron- once more just around the … zius muscle stretching up my neck, work tumn day. wrecks sit mysteriously on the bottom of dack Coast visitors than swimming in clear Splash. in unison to maintain balance. Tomorrow One more breath and my eyes Lake Champlain—and Champy isn’t the water under a layer of ice, is seeing the My fantasy fades as my hips they will ache. But now I stay focused on open. Recomposed, I square my feet on only one who gets to see them. Whether shipwrecks without getting wet. The Lake “For me being wobble, my feet slide off the board, and I the present, creating a cliché “one-with-the- the board’s center and crouch slightly to you want to scuba dive to them or stay dry Champlain Maritime Museum in Vergennes, plummet into the water. No longer am I the board” moment. vigorously stroke the paddle through the in the comfort of a boat tour, the historic Vt., offers shipwreck tours in Basin Harbor underwater and diving poised Pocahontas, hair blowing in the wind Kneeling, I let the wind rush suddenly choppy lake water. My legs burn. shipwrecks are sites to see. and Burlington. These tours use Remotely as I gracefully glide toward Lake Cham- through me. A shiver tingles down my My center tightens. I live for this. “For me being underwater and Operated Vehicles (ROV) to explore the down to the wrecks is plain’s southern basin. The peaceful under spine, shaking my upper body, threatening Right. Left. Right, right, right, I diving down to the wrecks is like a time wrecks in real-time, while passengers hear surf swallows me until the lifejacket yanks another spill. My abs and quads tense, and I scull to about-face. The sunset cues the capsule,” says Archie Jones of Ellenburg about the history behind each wreck. like a time capsule.” me back above the water’s surface, back to remain upright. Closing my eyes, I envision journey back to shore. With September Depot, N.Y. “It’s very exhilarating.” The Basin Harbor tour explores reality. My hair drips as I slosh back on to every wave as it passes under. I hear my coming to a close, this is my last paddle trip Jones owns A & M Scuba in El- the steamboat Champlain II, which sunk my board and turn into the wind. friends’ voices, but I do not listen for their of the season. For a moment, my heart’s lenburg Depot, where he offers multiple in 1875 after the boat ran aground near At this point, I have been paddling words. For a moment, I am alone. I am not ache overtakes that of my muscles. My classes for all levels of scuba divers. A diver Barn Rock. Its captain was on morphine to close to two hours. My body feels alive and a Native American princess; I am just me. I mood sobers, until splash. A wave crashes for more than 30 years, he says one of his relieve symptoms of gout. Ideally yours will energized despite the chilling breeze. Stand have no worries, no responsibilities. I feel into my board, spraying my face. A refresh- most memorable dives in Lake Champlain be healthy. The Burlington tour takes visi- up paddleboarding, my favorite water sport, ing reminder that the water will still be took him 50 feet deep near Burlington Bay tors to the sailing canal boat General Butler challenges the whole self. All muscles, here come spring. to a rare horse ferry, still intact, from the or the steamboat Phoenix. from the plantar fasciae running early 1800’s. The vessel, which resembles To Jones, though, the adventure a carousel, has been featured in National comes from diving in. He teaches A & M Geographic. Scuba classes himself, often venturing to “The ships are very much intact, other places such as Chazy Lake and Lake Adirondack Coast Paddle- The store offers more than just and you can tell what you’re looking at un- George. By changing the setting, he hopes board Company opened to meet a paddles and boards. You can find derwater,” Jones says. “Every single wreck to prepare his students for the ever-chang- new demand in the boating market— a variety of outerwear, including in Lake Champlain is interesting.” ing sport of scuba—whether they make it stand up paddleboarding (or SUP). jackets, T-shirts and shoes, as well The water can sometimes be to a shipwreck or not. “It’s the fastest growing Paddleboard Co. offers SUP lessons—even as boating essentials like life preservers and mucky and clouded, making it more difficult “Diving is a phenomenal and fun outdoor recreation sport right now,” says during the winter. cases to protect your cell phone. But when to see the wrecks, especially after heavy sport,” he says. “You can see things and do co-owner Kelly Husband. She says her shop “People enjoy it more if they take you’re trying to stand on a paddleboard in rainfall stirs up sediments. Jones also dives things that most other people never will. It has been selling and renting paddleboards a lesson,” Husband says. “They’re a little bit open water, you probably won’t be thinking in the winter when the lake is iced over. He has its own special niche.” for about five years, but the sport took off more comfortable and relaxed when they about texting anyway. -Seth Thomas says the ice halts current, allowing for the just two years ago. It’s so popular that the know what they’re doing.” best visibility.

28 ­|DONORTH Summer/Fall 2014 |29 Point Au Roche State Park, spanning from the The Padd e of Plattsburgh forestland in East Beekmantown to the shores of Lake Champlain, offers the best of both worlds for any outdoor enthusiast. In winter, its vast network of trails hosts the perfect grounds for Story by Krystle S Morey cross-country skiing and snow-shoeing. But the landscape is transformed in the warmer months, offering the perfect locale for a leisurely walk in the woods or a picnic along the lake’s shore.- Elizabeth R. Davidson Photo by Maura Danehey I enjoy kayaking whenever I get the chance, but this trip is unlike any other. It’s a Saturday morning in May. The water is chilly, but I can’t wait until summer; the woman who leased me the kayak said The Kayak Shack doesn’t usually open until then. But she understands my restlessness. The picturesque scenery draws my thoughts away from everything, each stroke bringing me toward one feeling—subtle bliss. I travel along the coast, finding little coves here and there. Streams join the lake everywhere, and wildlife is plentiful in the air and on the land and water. Branches from large, waterlogged trees peek out from the surface of the water. Half way through my journey, I stop along a sandbar off the coast of Ausable State Park. The perfect spot for a picnic, if I had thought to bring one. As I head back to Ausable Point to finish my journey, I stop paddling, allowing myself to drift with the natural movement Kayak Shack co-ownwer Kelly Husband. Photo by Seth Thomas of the water. Valcour Island is straight ahead. Off to my right, the Green Moun- During the spring, the water feels winter’s residual icy chill. The crisp yet tains of Vermont spread along the horizon, tends not to be ideal for swimmers, but calming atmosphere of Lake Champlain in appearing to circle the lake. They are mir- it is ideal for boaters. Kayaking is a Lake the early spring makes this trip a must for rored on the water’s still, yet motion-filled Champlain staple. The sun warms you, all adventure-seekers—and anyone in search surface. It’s so pristine, like stained glass. but as you reach into the water, your hand of a little peace.

Kayaking remains a vintage Ad- second outlet, Baggs’ Landing, located on The irondack Coast activity, especially for fami- the Ausable River. lies. Plattsburgh’s The Kayak Shack helps “It’s a very good spot to learn eager adventurers paddle the water they see because it isn’t windy or wavy,” says The Kayak from the plane. Kayak Shack’s co-owner Kelly Husband. Realizing that every family mem- “It’s calm, flat water with a little bit of cur- ber will likely vary in skill, The Kayak Shack rent. It’s a nice spot to try it out.” Shack offers many opportunities for beginners. The Kayak Shack’s special events, These range from Intro to Kayaking classes like a sunset and full moon tour, are held to safety and rescue clinics, as well as sum- throughout the summer. With a slew of mer lessons for kids. rentals, The Kayak Shack can get you on Lessons take place at the shop’s the water. -Seth Thomas

30 ­|DONORTH Summer/Fall 2014 |31 northernARCHIVES Camelot Commencement When RFK came to town Photo provided by SUNY Plattsburgh.

“I want to come back again. I its voice heard about a bill for the Econom- and audience members, likely realizing the want to represent the state of New York,” ics Opportunities Act, which only Syracuse advertising potential in a Kennedy visit, in- says Robert Kennedy as he addresses a had responded to at the time. vite him to vacation to Whiteface Mountain. crowd in Plattsburgh during a tour of New Later, he jokes with the students. “I planned to come up here last York State not long after being elected to “I want to thank my friends who morning and what did it do? It rained. I the U.S. Senate. chose to be here when they could be in planned to come up here with three of my Kennedy followed through on his class,” he says. children,” Kennedy says. “We’ll be back.” promise, returning as the speaker at SUNY The students laugh with him, -Camille Daniels Plattsburgh’s 1964 spring commencement. and he listens as a few other guests come Special Collections at SUNY Plattsburgh forward to voice concerns for the City of houses recordings of Kennedy’s memo- Plattsburgh. He explains that the door to rable 1964 speech and a 1964 meeting his office is open for anyone who wants to between he and Dr. George Angell, the contact him directly. college president at the time. The two Kennedy also collaborated with struck a friendship. SUNY Plattsburgh students on a book A Light in the Dark “There are a few people that are drive to support African-American youth able to achieve that rare distinction that in Mississippi.“I received a note written in John Brown’s homestead offers a peek at the Civil War wherever he goes he is cheered on regard- very good handwriting,” he says. less of race, creed, political affiliation or He reminds the crowd that even economic status,” says Angell on one of though segregation in education was Photo by Monica D’Ippolito the recordings. banned, it was still happening throughout Kennedy’s connection to Platts- the south. “There’s a particular need in the burgh goes beyond his friendship with south for young negro students for books. “John Brown’s body lies a-mould- U.S Marines led by Col. Robert E. Lee. Brown’s memory lives on. In Angell. He also bonded with Plattsburgh’s Some of the schools still haven’t been de- ering in the grave, but his soul goes march- Brown was captured and convict- 1935, the John Brown Association installed citizens and students. In his Massachusetts segregated,” Kennedy says. ing on.” ed of treason, and in December of 1859, he a graveside statue of Brown standing with accent, he praises Plattsburgh for making Kennedy ends on a lighter note, Even if you recognize the song, was executed by hanging. His body was sent his arm around an African American boy. and on the off chance you use “a-moulder- to his family homestead—now the John For the 150th anniversary of the raid on ing” in everyday speech, we bet you didn’t Brown Farm and Gravesite. Harpers Ferry, the funeral procession was know the famed abolotionist John Brown In 1859 Brown’s funeral service re-enacted at the farmstead. called the Adirondacks home. took place in his parlor and dining room. Scheduled events and guided tours Brown came to Northern New Now, the joint room is lined with old-fash- of Brown’s house are available from May York in 1849, when he purchased 244 acres ioned chairs and wooden tables. to October. Visitors can also explore the of land in North Elba, N.Y., near Lake Plac- “Several of the objects were left grounds, open year-round, to cross-country Of id. There, he ran a farm and taught freed from the family,” says site manager Brendan ski in the winter and hike in the summer. House Delord slaves how to establish their own. He stayed Mills. “Once they left, they couldn’t take You’re free to roam—as a legend Photo by Claire Durham Museum preserves life in the 19th century for five years before heading to Kansas everything with them.” marches on. -Elizabeth Reff to continue his fight against slavery. After The upstairs contains the bed- Connecting with history on a the Delords are perhaps out for the day. Lake Champlain to the right and the serene, 1855, he returned home only sporadically to rooms of Brown and his wife and children. personal level doesn’t always come easily. Books rest on night tables, sheet music grassy landscape of the estate to the left. visit his wife and children. “He had 20 children between two But in a home filled with history—real, vis- sits propped open on the piano and tiny Free to the public, this landmark Of course, Brown is best known wives, and this was the last Brown family ible human history laid out in hand-stitched women’s lace-up boots lie neatly set out in home hosts guided tours by walk-in and for his raid on the Federal Arsenal in Harp- that lived in the home,” said Mills. quilts, penned letters and hairbrushes— it’s the master bedroom. appointment. Passing under the front ers Ferry, Va., where he attempted to start Outside, visitors find the burial much easier to feel a kinship with strang- Thin ropes run throughout the archway—a wooden trellis overflowing with an armed slave revolt. yard, which includes three burial plots. The ers from the past. The Kent-Delord House home and connect to bells in the kitchen, flowered vines—one enters a kind of time Prior to the raid, Brown asked first contains the remains of Brown himself. Museum in Plattsburgh offers this up-close for summoning servants. The family capsule. The triumphs and tragedies of the Harriet Tubman and Frederick Douglas to His son Watson, originally buried in a mass experience, telling the story of the locally lavished in these extravagances, including Delords are all preserved here. Only in such join him. But foreshadowing the outcome, grave in Harpers Ferry before being moved famous Delords, one of the first families to expensive furniture and commissioned an intimate collection of history is it so easy Tubman fell ill and Douglas declined, be- closer to his father, lies nearby in the second settle the area in the 1790s. portraits of every member of the family. to walk a mile in those tiny Victorian shoes. lieving Brown’s plan would fail. The rebel- plot. The third plot includes ten of Brown’s Entering the home — a two- The back room, Fanny Delord’s apothecary, lion spanned October 16-18, 1859, before compatriots who were gunned down at -Elizabeth R. Davidson story white farmhouse with shuttered boasts shelves of antique medical supplies, Brown’s party was defeated by a group of Harpers Ferry. One was Brown’s son Oliver. windows — you’re met with the faint scent as well as some of the best views on the of old wood, with the rooms set to suggest estate. Large windows on two sides reveal

32 ­|DONORTH Summer/Fall 2014 |33 Slackventures The Adirondack Coast has seen all types of athletes. Olympic skiers ripping turns in the mountains, fishermen finessing the rivers and lakes, hikers bagging peaks. But now the magnetic playground grabs hold of another breed—slackliners.

Story and photos by Matt McDonald

34 ­|DONORTH Summer/Fall 2014 |35 Slacklining is the art of balancing on a piece of one- or two- inch webbing stretched between two anchors, usually trees. The essence of slacklining, however, is more difficult to capture. Since fall 2012, handfuls of local slackers have lined the Adirondack Coast. They have tricklined on the beach behind Plattsburgh’s Crete Civic Cen- ter, bouncing, spinning and flipping on tight, trampoline-like webbing. They’ve longlined beside the Saranac River. They’ve waterlined over it. But all slackliners start somewhere, and many of them thought walk- ing the line would be impossible the first time they tried it. Now, their mission, along with improving their own slacklining, is to welcome first-timers to the slackline community. “If you can walk down the sidewalk, you can slackline,” says Keagan French, the founder of SUNY Plattsburgh’s slackline club, Platty Slack. “It’s for everyone.” French and Platty Slack have taught hundreds of people to slackline. In April 2013, their inaugural Slackfest event attracted close to 400 people, including local media. Three professionals from Gibbon Slacklines, the Nike of slacklining, stopped in Plattsburgh on their way back to Boulder, Colo., from an event in Boston. At Slackfest, they taught and performed. During the rest of their visit, they explored the high country.

36 ­|DONORTH Summer/Fall 2014 |37 The pros provided the gear, led by Josh Beaudoin of Golden, Colo., then coordinator of Gibbon’s education and workshop program, the Slackline Scholarship Challenge, and Platty Slackers supplied the local intel. Beaudoin, a slackliner for eight years, has judged many of the sport’s tricklining competitions (yes, slacklining has a World Cup and World Championships). But he gravitates to rigging interesting lines in interesting (a compromise between ‘crazy’ and ‘rustic’) places. His Adirondack Coast initiation ran the gamut. On a postcard Thursday, French’s posse took Beaudoin and company to Giant Mountain to rig lines atop 300-foot high Roaring Brook Falls. The experts walked a quintessential Beaudoin line, defying crashing whitewater and rock slabs. Then the group moved upstream to a calmer section, where sev- eral locals crossed their first waterline. Two days later, French became the first person to highline over the Wilmington Flume Gorge, and on Sunday Beaudoin crossed the Saranac near Morrisonville on a 175-foot river line. “The Adirondacks are beautiful,” Beaudoin says. “They’re different than any other place I’ve been or slacklined.”

38 ­|DONORTH Summer/Fall 2014 |39 Slacklining was “invented” by climbers on the West Coast in their down time. Some people point to Olympia, Wash., as the sport’s birth- place, others Yosemite in California. But wherever the epiphany, the ancestors (slack-cestors?) realized that stringing climbing webbing between two trees and balancing on it was downright fun. Maybe someone said, “It’s like a tightrope, but it moves!” Either way, early slackers noticed what today’s slackliners live for. It’s dynamic. It’s exciting and challenging. It demands goalkeeper focus and Zen master calm. It shakes if you break, and it bucks if you sneer. With Beaudoin as a mentor, French continues to push himself and Platty Slack higher. He has competed in trickline competitions in Colorado and Washington, performed and instructed in New York City and highlined in Moab, Utah. Meanwhile, Platty Slack has become one of the largest college slackline clubs in the country. French says slacklining has changed his life. Beaudoin has found his identity—he’s known on Instagram as simply “Slacklinejosh.” Together, they’ve founded a slacker’s paradise in the Adiron- dack Coast, where everyone is welcome.

40 ­|DONORTH Summer/Fall 2014 |41 Driving through the North Country, you may spot slackliners. But if you can’t find the regulars—or if their dubstep music, flips and tie-dye scare you off—or you’re more of a solo learner, don’t give up on your slacker dreams. Slacklines have hit the shelves of Dick’s Sporting Goods, Walmart, Target and Gander Mountain, and you can find each superstore in Plattsburgh. Once purchased, slackline kits are easy to set. Find two trees in a calm spot, open the box and read the proverbial directions if you can’t figure out the ratchet. If you find yourself looking around uncomfortably or getting frus- trated, remember a couple things. First, you’re cool. Second, you’re doing this to have fun. Third? You can do it. Really. Various locals have slacklined in parks and alleyways, on covered bridges and state signs, by rivers and waterfalls and campfires and beaches. Place matters. So whether your slackventures take you to the Wilmington Flume Gorge or Plattsburgh City Beach, the Saranac River or the High Peaks, your family’s backyard or a green park with a cool breeze, remember one thing: It starts by putting one foot in front of the other.

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This Wurlitzer is one of only 19 needed to fully restore the Strand’s Wurlitzer. in the world, and the locals who lined the “When I heard that they got an organ donated and it streets and crammed the lobby know this needed to be refurbished, my husband and I were already is a special night. Ortloff begins, the first talking about giving some money to the Strand to help chord breaking the electric stillness. As he with the cause,” Tetreault says. plays The Phantom of the Opera, and the origi- The donation ultimately had larger implications than nal 1925 silent film fills the screen above helping the organ impact the Strand — it made it pos- him, one thing becomes clear: Plattsburgh is sible for the Strand to once again impact the city. reviving the cultural arts. “The Strand gives young people another reason to come Ortloff ’s performance has been a long here,” says Leigh Mundy, president of the NCCCA. “It’s time coming. Built in 1924, the Strand, a our history. It’s our legacy.” Greek revival and motif theatre, was one As a venue and landmark, the Strand is recognized by of three prominent Vaudeville theaters in the federal government as a national historic place, prob- Plattsburgh. It soon became the last vestige ably noted for its perfect acoustics or stunning chande- of cultural arts in the community, and liers. As a life-force, it beats with Plattsburgh. though there was no organ installed in the “If we don’t save this one,” Mundy says, “we’ll never theater when it was built, many plays and The original exit signs were preserved. have another one.” orchestras were held there for decades. The renovation project continues to rely on donations In the early ‘60s, a man by the name of and fundraisers, making it ever more connected to the Dick Weber bought the Strand as a place to North Country community. In addition to the Wurlitzer store his own organ. Under his influence, restoration, the Strand’s makeover included a $3.6 million all of the theatre’s concerts featured organ interior renovation that will be completed by the end of performances. But the movie theater boom Summer 2014. Ultimately, the success of the project will forced him to skip town, and he installed be measured in the number of electrifying nights like the his organ in a Marietta, Ga., pizza joint. re-opening. Vital once more, the Strand is built to attract The Strand remained organless for de- world-renowned performers and acts. cades until Sylvia Stack, former president of In October 2013, the Strand hosted 22 bands and the North Country Center for the Cultural performers across multiple genres from all over the world Arts, reached out to Ortloff, an organist in “Bring it Home,” an event that raised over $20,000 and a restoration expert. He restored the in a single weekend — proceeds that will directly fund a Wurlitzer while on breaks from the East- new sound and lighting system. The 2014 lineup includes man School of Music in Rochester, N.Y., Richard Hills, an organist from London who was named working with dozens of volunteers who had the 2010 American Theatre Organ Society “Organist of little to no organ experience. the Year,” and a Royal Marine Band concert during the “The restoration of the organ itself was Battle of Plattsburgh bicentennial weekend. pretty straightforward,” Ortloff says. “The After striking the final chord ofPhantom , Ortloff fact that these volunteers really believed in A $ 3.6 million dollar makeover smiles triumphantly and bows to a standing ovation. The it more than almost everybody else made us jubilant crowd almost overpowers the Wurlitzer, which become a family of sorts.” Ortloff steps aside to recognize. Applause continues for The “family” worked on and off for five minutes, but no one is looking at a clock. years. In a constant struggle for funding, “To feel the response from the community who was they pieced the Wurlitzer together one part just ravenously hungry for it was just so incredibly grati- and donation at a time. But even so, they fying,” Ortloff says. “People felt like this was something were coming up short — Spencer Organ that belonged to them and the community. That’s exactly Company estimated the completion of the the response I was looking for.” project would cost $125,000 that Ortloff and his team didn’t have. The Strand’s Wurlitzer Opus 970 is one of only Cue Alan Tetreault, a graduate of the 19 in the world. Photo provided by North Country Center of the Arts. nearby Crane School of Music at SUNY

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