TO THE RESC UE Plas Gwynfryn country house in North has been transformed into exceptional self-catering accommodation – however, there’s no need to cook if you’d prefer not to! Words: Charlotte van Praagh

uzzards circle overhead as Welsh country house, it was constructed we drive across the as the centrepiece of a former 100-acre bracken-topped uplands of estate from granite quarried from beneath BNorth Wales. However, not our feet. Even the landscaped gardens even this riveting aerial display can distract were designed to follow the contours of from the untamed beauty of our the landscape, harnessing natural rock surroundings. We are in the foothills of formations to create rockery gardens and the Rhinog Mountains, the wildest part of a lily pond. At this time of year, Snowdonia, where peaks of 2,500ft give rhododendrons in a variety of colours are way to unspoilt valleys and lakes, which in full bloom, providing a cheerful lead down to Cardigan Bay. backdrop to the privately owned home. The region seems so untouched that our at the pretty Welsh village of A TRANSFORMATION , near , takes us by Just as cheerful is the welcome we receive surprise. However, as we turn onto a long from owner Caroline Evans, who greets private driveway flanked by eight acres of us on arrival. The 34-year-old runs Plas exploit even a fraction of the fantastic stunning gardens and sweeping lawns, Plas Gwynfryn (which has been in her family walking opportunities on your doorstep Gwynfryn rises up majestically before us since 1964) with partner Michael Roberts, while staying at Plas Gwynfryn, you’ll be as if it’s always been here. The archetypal after moving back in 2009 when her grateful for somewhere to put your feet up! mother became ill. Since then the pair Head upstairs, and the full extent of the have transformed the historic house couple’s endeavours is immediately through sensitive refurbishment and apparent. Five spacious bedrooms, redecoration, turning it into a thriving complete with period features such as business, an idyllic wedding venue and, as marble fireplaces, have been tastefully of this year, a delightful self-catering retreat decorated using classic colours and plush that’s proving popular with families and fabrics to evoke a sense of country house groups of friends looking for something a chic. All the rooms boast great views, bit different. either over the gardens or the pretty A cosy, oak-panelled entrance hall courtyard at the centre of the house. adorned with Welsh antiques and family Particularly lavish is the biggest bedroom, heirlooms is warm and welcoming – the which is used as the bridal suite when perfect spot from which to enjoy a cup of they host weddings, which has a grand tea. Next door there’s a large but, mahogany half-tester bed, bay windows ROOMS AND RATES thankfully, informal dining room with a and an en suite with freestanding bath Plas Gwynfryn has a total of five bedrooms, which sleep table and enough chairs to accommodate overlooking the grounds. Despite the 14 people in total. Three bedrooms are en suite with all 14 guests comfortably. Though should fact it’s self-catering, Caroline provides king-size beds and there are two family rooms: one with a you wish to cook for your friends or plenty of fluffy white towels and king-size bed and two singles; the other with a king-size family, Plas Gwynfryn’s well-equipped complimentary toiletries. bed and an adjoining bedroom with a single and trundle country kitchen has everything you’ll “All the beds are large and comfy with pullout. The family rooms share a large bathroom and an need, including a fridge, freezer, Aga and memory-foam mattresses and additional separate WC. Depending on the season, one plenty of elegant white crockery. Egyptian cotton sheets. We have week costs from £1,600; three nights mid week costs A sitting room, replete made a point of really from £950; and three nights at the weekend (Thurs, Fri with brand new comfy focusing on the and Sat) from £1,150. Dogs are welcome by prior sofas, meanwhile, provides a bathrooms,” explains arrangement for no extra fee. relaxing retreat for Caroline. “For me, if you the evenings. If you have a really restful night’s

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Plas Gwynfryn Llanbedr, LL45 2NY. Tel: 01341 241363/07767 473505. www.plasgwynfryn.co.uk

Activities and attractions

Beaches: the glorious, dune-backed Harlech Beach and the golden sands of Shell Island are both less than 10 minutes’ drive away.

Culture: Harlech’s sleep and an amazing shower the next much running space here for them – it’s glowering morning, that’s the key to a good stay.” perfect, really.” (pictured right; While the weather’s still fine, however, Of course, walking’s not the only cadw.wales.gov.uk), we can’t resist a wander around the activity you can enjoy in this part of the a World Heritage grounds. An attraction in their own right, world. There are beautiful beaches, Site, is close by, and they’ve featured in the National Gardens notably at Harlech and Shell Island; Italianate village Scheme – and it’s not hard to see why. countless cultural attractions, such as Portmeirion is less Lovingly cultivated by Caroline’s mother, Portmeirion; four stunning golf courses than 30 minutes’ they include evergreen shrubs for year- within a 30-minute drive; and water drive away. round colour, rare species, a walled sports and world-class mountain biking at kitchen garden that’ll soon provide nearby Coed y Brenin. Fishing: Plas Gwynfryn holds the fishing rights for both produce for guests, an orchard and an old So much choice can seem banks of the River Atro over the section that runs through Victorian lean-to greenhouse encasing a overwhelming when you holiday the bottom of the garden. grape vine. There’s plenty of seating on somewhere unfamiliar, but thankfully the lawns or in the pretty courtyard so Caroline, who grew up here, is on hand Walking: The 24-mile Taith Ardudwy Way from guests can enjoy al fresco dining – or just a to offer recommendations and put you in to won Lonely Planet’s “best glass of wine – in the warmer months. touch with local companies she’s forged reason to put on your walking boots” award last year links with. Alternatively, if you’re not an (www.taithardudwyway.com). The newly opened Wales HOUNDS ABOUND outdoor type, she’s happy to arrange Coast Path, meanwhile, is just half a mile west from Plas With such extensive grounds and anything from private yoga sessions to Gwynfryn (www.walescoastpath.gov.uk). abundant walking opportunities locally, it’s cheese and wine tasting. heartening to discover that Caroline and Dining’s another important element of Wildlife: Nature fans can experience the area’s wildlife on Mike allow dogs, for no extra fee. many people’s holidays, which is why a guided walk, beach supper , bird-watching or rock-pooling Certainly their two rescue lurchers, Flyte some are deterred from self-catering excursion or 4x4 safari through local company Wildlife and Celeritas, clearly enjoy bounding breaks. Thankfully, Caroline’s thought of a Wales (tel: 01341 241469. www.wildlife-wales.co.uk). around the grounds. solution to that, too. Guests can choose “If you have a dog, they’re a member to have dinner cooked for them and Adventure: Snowdonia Adventure Activities offer a range of your family so it’s important to us that served in the comfort of Plas Gwynfryn, of instructor-led outdoor pursuits, from kayaking and gorge they’re welcome here, too,” says meaning there’s no need to nominate a scrambling to rock climbing and mine exploration (tel: Caroline, smiling fondly at her two driver, no pot-luck restaurant selection 01341 241275. www.outdooradventureactivities.com). hounds. “There are so many walks, so and no washing up to do afterwards!

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What’s more, the menu can be tailored to your individual tastes – now you wouldn’t get that in any restaurant! It’s all thanks to a partnership between Plas Gwynfryn and a local couple, Christine and Patrick Cummings, who are passionate about food and entertaining. The bubbly couple, who are originally from London, offer country cooking and will use their skills to provide any special requests and dietary requirements, such as vegetarian feasts, barbecues if the weather’s fine or a standard three-course meal. It’s all good, home-cooked fare using the best local produce they can find – they’ll even do the shopping for you. “Why would you want to go to a restaurant when you have grounds like these?” asks Christine, gesturing through the loggia windows to the gardens beyond. “But if you’ve been out walking in Snowdonia all day, it’s nice not to have to cook.”

FINE DINING Christine and Patrick treat us to a vegetarian selection of antipasto to start. This includes olives, sun-dried tomatoes, ciabatta bread and a dip made using herbs, parmesan, olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Christine saw the recipe on a cookery programme earlier in the week and has been dying to try it out on someone! We’re happy to be guinea pigs as it’s delicious. For our main courses there’s a Wisteria provides couple’s garden if it’s been a good year – home. All that’s left is to appreciatively tasty courgette and goat’s cheese tart, a wa rm welcome and new potatoes. loosen our belts and savour our the veggie option, and a beautifully at Plas Gwynfryn, For dessert, meanwhile, strawberry breathtaking surroundings. tender lamb shank that’s been slow where great cheesecake and lemon drizzle cake – The next morning, after a deep and cooked in a tagine with Moroccan attention has both clearly homemade and fresh that restful sleep (Caroline was right about the spices. Both are served with seasonal been paid to day – vie for attention. Refreshingly, beds) and an invigorating rainshower, vegetables – which come from the every detail after the meal there’s no need to drive we’re both revived and ready to take on the day. The only decision now, of course, DINING is where to start our break – and with so many possibilities a stone’s-throw away, Plas Gwynfryn provide everything you need to cook for the choice is endless. up to 14 people. What’s more, they’ll even provide a A break at Plas Gwynfryn is like being shopping service for guests (£10 per hour), so you can a welcome house guest at the home of arrive to find a fully stocked fridge. a really good friend – who just happens However, if you’d like a break from cooking, Chris to live in a grand Welsh country house and Patrick Cummings will put on a home-cooked set in acres of glorious gardens within spread to meet your requirements. They’ll buy the the wildest and most ruggedly beautiful ingredients, prepare the food, serve the meal and clean part of Snowdonia! But next time we up afterwards. The couple source as locally as possible, come, we vow to bring our own hound so you can opt for Welsh Black beef, Saltmarsh Welsh with us, so he, too, can enjoy Plas lamb or seafood caught off the Welsh coast, depending Gwynfryn and all it has to offer as much as on availability. Priced around £25 per head for a three- we have. course meal. Nearby there are also plenty of places to eat and READER OFFER drink, including Ty Mawr, a five-minute walk from the If you’d like to book Plas Gwynfryn house (www.tymawrhotel.com), or five-star restaurant for a self-catering break or for your with rooms Castle Cottage in Harlech a short drive wedding, Welsh Coast readers can away (www.castlecottageharlech.co.uk). Read Plas enjoy an exclusive 10 PERCENT OFF. Just state you’re a reader when Gwynfryn’s helpful ‘Restaurant Guide’, filled in by visitors booking . For details, contact Caroline with their own honest reviews of local eateries. on tel: 01341 241363/07767 473505.

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