The Influence of Hydrology and Time on Productivity and Soil Development of Created and Restored Wetlands
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Fashion,Costume,And Culture
FCC_TP_V4_930 3/5/04 3:59 PM Page 1 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages FCC_TP_V4_930 3/5/04 3:59 PM Page 3 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Volume 4: Modern World Part I: 19004 – 1945 SARA PENDERGAST AND TOM PENDERGAST SARAH HERMSEN, Project Editor Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast Project Editor Imaging and Multimedia Composition Sarah Hermsen Dean Dauphinais, Dave Oblender Evi Seoud Editorial Product Design Manufacturing Lawrence W. Baker Kate Scheible Rita Wimberley Permissions Shalice Shah-Caldwell, Ann Taylor ©2004 by U•X•L. U•X•L is an imprint of For permission to use material from Picture Archive/CORBIS, the Library of The Gale Group, Inc., a division of this product, submit your request via Congress, AP/Wide World Photos; large Thomson Learning, Inc. the Web at http://www.gale-edit.com/ photo, Public Domain. Volume 4, from permissions, or you may download our top to bottom, © Austrian Archives/ U•X•L® is a registered trademark used Permissions Request form and submit CORBIS, AP/Wide World Photos, © Kelly herein under license. Thomson your request by fax or mail to: A. Quin; large photo, AP/Wide World Learning™ is a trademark used herein Permissions Department Photos. Volume 5, from top to bottom, under license. The Gale Group, Inc. Susan D. Rock, AP/Wide World Photos, 27500 Drake Rd. © Ken Settle; large photo, AP/Wide For more information, contact: Farmington Hills, MI 48331-3535 World Photos. -
A Study on the Design and Composition of Victorian Women's Mantle
Journal of Fashion Business Vol. 14, No. 6, pp.188~203(2010) A Study on the Design and Composition of Victorian Women’s Mantle * Lee Sangrye ‧ Kim Hyejeong Professor, Dept. of Fashion Design, TongMyong University * Associate Professor, Dept. of Clothing Industry, Hankyong National University Abstract This study purposed to identify the design and composition characteristics of mantle through a historical review of its change and development focusing on women’s dress. This analysis was particularly focused on the Victorian age because the variety of mantle designs introduced and popularized was wider than ever since ancient times to the present. For this study, we collected historical literature on mantle from ancient times to the 19 th century and made comparative analysis of design and composition, and for the Victorian age we investigated also actual items from the period. During the early Victorian age when the crinoline style was popular, mantle was of A‐ line silhouette spreading downward from the shoulders and of around knee length. In the mid Victorian age from 1870 to 1889 when the bustle style was popular, the style of mantle was changed to be three‐ dimensional, exaggerating the rear side of the bustle skirt. In addition, with increase in women’s suburban activities, walking costume became popular and mantle reached its climax. With the diversification of design and composition in this period, the name of mantle became more specific and as a result, mantle, mantelet, dolman, paletot, etc. were used. The styles popular were: it looked like half-jacket and half-cape. Ornaments such as tassels, fur, braids, rosettes, tufts and fringe were attached to create luxurious effects. -
Sorry, Not Sari
Tamar bat Avraham, Opifex Nobillima Calontir, Barony of Three Rivers https://vestificasericata.wordpress.com/ Last updated 6/4/19 Sorry, Not Sari: Basics of Roman Dress This handout will serve as an overview of Roman clothing basics for men and women, focusing on the earlier Principate era (approx. 1st cent. BCE through 2nd Cent. CE) including discussion of fabric and color choices, appropriate layers, and patterning basic garments. Fabrics In order of common usage when considering the city of Rome and nearby areas. There would likely be some difference for places nearer areas of production. Cotton may have been more common in Egypt, certain areas of Spain were known for their particularly fine linens, etc. Wool: Look for lighter, summer weight wools. If you can find something that has not been processed with modern chemicals, it is less likely to have the itchy feeling that we usually associate with wool. Nettle (somewhat difficult to get modernly as a garment fabric. Sold under the name Ramie), Similar in processing and texture to Linen Linen Cotton Silk (pure silk garments would be rare and quite costly. Silk was often blended with other fibers.) These fibers were found blended in just about any combination you can make (Wool/Linen, Linen/Cotton, Silk/Wool, etc.) so don’t be afraid of blends! Blended fabrics were used both to cut the cost of more expensive fibers and to take advantage of the properties of both fibers, as we do modernly. While the use of saris to create Greek and Roman clothing is popular, most of the modernly available patterns are not at all period. -
1 Introduction
11 July 2019 To Ms Sallyanne Everett, Mr William Bartley Copy to From Tim Anderson and Rikito Gresswell Tel (03) 8687 8877 Subject North East Link Project Job no. 31/35006 Bolin Bolin Billabong additional hydrogeological information Dear Sallyanne/William 1 Introduction This memorandum has been prepared for the purposes of responding to a request from Mr Hugh Middlemis, received by GHD care of Clayton Utz, for the following information: Bore logs for the two Melbourne Water bores referenced within Technical Report N that are located in the wetland project to the south of the Bolin Bolin Billabong, together with time series plots of groundwater data collected from these bores. A map of groundwater bores within a 1 km radius of the Bolin Bolin Billabong. Relevant water levels of the Bolin Bolin Billabong including the location of the gauges where the levels were taken. The information contained in this letter has been sourced from: Coffey (2012) report titled Bolin Bolin Billabong Wetland Project Geotechnical Investigation, provided by Manningham City Council. Raw data of groundwater levels recorded in the two monitoring bores, provided by Melbourne Water. Jacobs (2018) memorandum titled Review of trial environmental watering and unregulated flow event, provided by Melbourne Water. The Jacobs memorandum and the groundwater data were provided by Melbourne Water and were not prepared specifically for the purposes of the EES. Relevant information, including borehole logs and falling head tests, have been extracted from the Coffey (2012) report and is included as Attachment A. A copy of the Jacobs (2018) memorandum is also included as Attachment B. -
Roman Clothing and Fashion
ROMAN CLOTHING AND FASHION ALEXANDRA CROOM This edition published 2010. This electronic edition published 2012. Amberley Publishing The Hill, Stroud, Gloucestershire GL5 4EP www.amberley-books.com Copyright © Alexandra Croom 2010, 2012 The right of Alexandra Croom to be identified as the Author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyrights, Designs and Patents Act 1988. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reprinted or reproduced or utilised in any form or by any electronic, mechanical or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without the permission in writing from the Publishers. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data. A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN 978-1-84868-977-0 (PRINT) ISBN 978-1-4456-1244-7 (e-BOOK) CONTENTS List of Illustrations Acknowledgements 1 - Introduction 2 - Cloths and Colour 3 - Men’s Clothing 4 - Women’s Clothing 5 - Children’s Clothing 6 - Beauty 7 - Provincial Clothing 8 - Conclusions Pictures Section Glossary References Weaving Terminology Bibliography LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS TEXT FIGURES 1 - The costume of goddesses 2 - Woman spinning 3 - Tunic forms 4 - A clothes press 5 - Tunics of the first and second centuries 6 - Tunics of the third and fourth centuries 7 - Tunic decorations 8 - Portrait of Stilicho 9 - Tunics 10 - Togas of the first to fourth centuries 11 - The ‘Brothers’ sarcophagus 12 - Togas of the fifth and sixth centuries 13 -
Current Research on Roman Dress
CHAPTER 1 Current Research on Roman Dress Clothing and Personal Adornment for this absence should be considered: as a large, all enveloping expanse of un-seamed cloth, the toga was The Toga ideal to be used as a shroud during a time when crema- The toga, probably the most well-known item of Roman tion was the norm.7 It could also very easily have been clothing, is a rounded woollen garment adapted from made into something else; certainly there is consider- the semi-circular Etruscan mantle.1 Literary and art able evidence for the recycling of textiles, as I discuss in historical evidence describes and depicts the toga as later chapters. Furthermore, the majority of extant gar- an expensive and cumbersome garment made from a ments come from a later period when inhumation was voluminous amount of cloth, which was draped across more common, by which time a narrow-sleeved tunic the body in a complicated manner. It was not fastened and cloak was the more usual ensemble of the Roman with a brooch, and so had to be held in place by the official.8 Togas were still worn during this period, but wearer, a clear indication of both his wealth and status were increasingly reserved for ceremonial or official as a member of the ‘leisure class’.2 The many depictions occasions.9 These later togas appear often to have been of togate figures from the Roman period attest to the made with patterned tapestry fabric, fragments of which symbolic importance of this ‘national’ garment, with exist in the archaeological record, but may not be recog- variations in the method of drapery sometimes used to nised for what they are.10 identify specific roles or achievements, both public and private.3 There are references to prostitutes and/or adul- Mantles and Cloaks teresses having to wear a toga as a symbol of their rejec- Like the toga, the Roman mantle was a large cloth that tion of the moral code it represented, however there is was draped across the body; considerably smaller and no evidence that they were legally compelled to do so, straight edged, it was easier both to make and to handle. -
Lower Goulburn River
King’s Billabong Floodplain Management Unit Environmental Water Management Plan Mallee Catchment Management Authority DOCUMENT CONTROL Revision and distribution Version no. Description Issued to Issue date Report structure updated following Beth Ashworth, Julia Reed, Michael 1 13/10/2010 internal discussion Jensz, Tori Perrin Report structure updated following EWaMP working group across CMAs 2 19/10/2010 comments from EWR team and DSE Management Organisation Department of Sustainability and Environment Author(s) Mark Stacey Last printed Fri 21 Sep 2018 at 2:52 PM Last saved Fri 21 Sep 2018 at 2:52 PM Last saved by Mark Stacey Number of pages 53 Name of document Template for Environmental Water Management Plans U:\Backup\EWR Management\Environmental Watering\Environmental Watering Filepath plans\Environmental Water Management Plans\Template_V4.doc For further information on any of the information contained within this document contact: Louise Searle Coordinator Environmental Water Reserve Mallee Catchment Management Authority This publication may be of assistance to you but the Mallee Catchment Management Authority and its employees do not guarantee that the publication is without flaw of any kind or is wholly appropriate for your particular purpose and therefore disclaims all liability for any error, loss or other consequence that may arise from you relying on any information in this publication. i EXECUTIVE SUMMARY Environmental water management plans have been developed for key sites in the Mallee region by the Mallee Catchment Management Authority in partnership with the Victorian Department of Sustainability and Environment. These plans are based on floodplain management units (FMU’s) of the Murray River floodplain and have been developed to guide future environmental water events at these sites. -
Basics of Roman Dress Fabrics in Order of Common Usage When Considering the City of Rome and Nearby Areas
Tamar bat Avraham, Opifex Nobilior Calontir, Barony of Three Rivers Last updated 8/16/17 Basics of Roman Dress Fabrics In order of common usage when considering the city of Rome and nearby areas. There would likely be some difference for places nearer areas of production. Cotton may have been more common in Egypt, certain areas of Spain were known for their particularly fine linens, etc. Any of these fibers may have been blended with the others to combine properties or make expensive fibers more cost effective. Wool Nettle (somewhat difficult to get modernly as a garment fabric. Sold under the name Ramie) Linen Cotton Silk (pure silk garments would be rare and quite costly. Silk was often blended with other fibers.) These fibers were found blended in just about any combination you can make (Wool/Linen, Linen/Cotton, Silk/Wool, etc.) so don’t be afraid of blends! Blended fabrics were used both to cut the cost of more expensive fibers and to take advantage of the properties of both fibers, as we do modernly. Colors/Patterns (P – Plautus; O – Ovid) Ovid: There are many more colours, he says, that he could name, as many as flowers that bloom in the spring. Blue o sky‐blue (P, O) o sea‐blue (P, O) Green o dark green (O) o greenish yellow Yellow o marigold‐yellow (P) o golden (O) o yellow (O) o wax‐yellow or pale yellow (O) Red o red‐orange (P) o Cherry Red Natural, Brown, Black o walnut brown (P) o dark gray (O) o acorn or dark brown (O) o almond‐coloured or beige (O) Tamar bat Avraham, Opifex Nobilior Calontir, Barony of Three Rivers Last updated 8/16/17 Purple o Ovid complains of women wearing purple too much o Amethyst (O) o pale pink (O) Other o White is rarely mentioned o Certain garish colors, such as greenish yellow and cherry‐red were deemed lower‐class by the elite o Violet and yellow were associated almost exclusively with women Patterns o “Women’s garments could also be multicolored. -
Roman Patrician Matron's Clothing Clothing
Roman Patrician Matron’s Clothing Clothing “A married woman’s rank, status, and morality were also supposed to be indicated by her dress: long tunic, stola, and palla or mantle, drawn over the head when the woman was out of doors, and hair bound in fillets.” (Olson, Dress, 25) All my garments were constructed with undyed linen thread using a running stitch and finished and hemmed by rolling over the edge and sewing with a whip stitch. In Textile Manufacture in the Northern Roman Provinces, Wild discusses the use of both the plain running stitch, overcast stitch, and some decorative edging and embroidery stitches. Given how similar they are, I think it’s a small leap from overcast to a plain whip stitch. Fabric and Dyes The Romans had an extensive trade network and an equally extensive variety of fabrics and dye choices when it came to their clothing. Judith Lynne Sebesta covers the topic extensively in her chapter “Tunica Ralla, Tunica Spissa: The Colors and Textiles of Roman Costume”. They had wool in a range of natural colors from white, to browns to greys to black; linen, worn mostly in its natural color, or bleached in the sun; for the more well-to-do, cotton imported from India and silks from China and India. The Romans also blended different fibers together such as cotton with linen for a fabric with a softer hand or cotton with wool for a lighter weight, but still warm fabric. Because of its cost, silk was often also woven with other fibers. (65-72) While linen was harder to dye and make colorfast, all the fabrics could be dyed to a whole rainbow of colors. -
Explorations and Encounters in French
Welcome to the electronic edition of Explorations and Encounters in French. The book opens with the bookmark panel and you will see the contents page/s. Click on this anytime to return to the contents. You can also add your own bookmarks. Each chapter heading in the contents table is clickable and will take you direct to the chapter. Return using the contents link in the bookmarks. The whole document is fully searchable. Avoid quote marks. Bonne lecture. Explorations and Encounters in FRENCH Edit Ed by JEaN FoRNasiERo aNd ColEttE MRowa-HopkiNs French Studies Collection Explorations and Encounters in French Explorations and Encounters in FRENCH Edit Ed by JEaN FoRNasiERo aNd ColEttE MRowa-HopkiNs selected Essays from the inaugural Conference of the Federation of associations of teachers of French in australia published in adelaide by University of adelaide press barr smith library The University ofa delaide south australia 5005 [email protected] www.adelaide.edu.au/press The University of adelaide press publishes externally refereed scholarly books by staff of the Uni- versity of adelaide. it aims to maximise the accessibility to its best research by publishing works through the internet as free downloads and as high quality printed volumes on demand. Electronic index: this book is available from the website as a down-loadable pdF with fully searchable text. please use the electronic version to complement the index. © The Contributors 2010 First published 2010 This book is copyright. apart from any fair dealing for the purposes of private study, research, criticism or review as permitted under the Copyright act, no part may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior written permission. -
The Visual Dictionary of Clothing & Personal Adornment
CLOTHING elements of ancient costume Examples of different articles of clothing characteristic of a period, country, condition or occasion. toga peplos Very long length of woolen fabric that In ancient times, a rectangle of woolen Romans wrapped around themselves, fabric wrapped around the torso and draping it over the left shoulder and arm pinned at the shoulders, worn by Greek and leaving the right arm free. women. fibula In ancient times, a pin or metal fastener used to secure clothing. fold Part of the cloth folded over the belt to make it puff out. sinus Part of the toga that draped down over the left shoulder and went under the right arm, creating carefully arranged folds. purple border In ancient Rome, the purple border was worn by magistrates and by boys until the age of 16. 8 CLOTHING elements of ancient costume stola Long full robe with or without sleeves and drawn in with a belt; it was worn by Roman women. chiton Tunic worn by Greek men and women in ancient times, made of two rectangles of linen sewn together to form a tube and belted at the waist. palla Long rectangular piece of cloth, folded in half lengthwise and used as a cloak by Roman women. chlamys In ancient times, a rectangle of woolen fabric pinned on one shoulder; it was worn by soldiers next to the skin or over a chiton. 9 CLOTHING elements of ancient costume dress with crinoline A 19th-century dress worn over several underskirts, including a full one made short sleeve of horsehair. -
Fashion,Costume,And Culture
FCC_TP_V2_930 3/5/04 3:55 PM Page 1 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages FCC_TP_V2_930 3/5/04 3:55 PM Page 3 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Volume 2: Early Cultures Across2 the Globe SARA PENDERGAST AND TOM PENDERGAST SARAH HERMSEN, Project Editor Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast Project Editor Imaging and Multimedia Composition Sarah Hermsen Dean Dauphinais, Dave Oblender Evi Seoud Editorial Product Design Manufacturing Lawrence W. Baker Kate Scheible Rita Wimberley Permissions Shalice Shah-Caldwell, Ann Taylor ©2004 by U•X•L. U•X•L is an imprint of For permission to use material from Picture Archive/CORBIS, the Library of The Gale Group, Inc., a division of this product, submit your request via Congress, AP/Wide World Photos; large Thomson Learning, Inc. the Web at http://www.gale-edit.com/ photo, Public Domain. Volume 4, from permissions, or you may download our top to bottom, © Austrian Archives/ U•X•L® is a registered trademark used Permissions Request form and submit CORBIS, AP/Wide World Photos, © Kelly herein under license. Thomson your request by fax or mail to: A. Quin; large photo, AP/Wide World Learning™ is a trademark used herein Permissions Department Photos. Volume 5, from top to bottom, under license. The Gale Group, Inc. Susan D. Rock, AP/Wide World Photos, 27500 Drake Rd. © Ken Settle; large photo, AP/Wide For more information, contact: Farmington Hills, MI 48331-3535 World Photos.