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Channeling the Future: Lake Merritt Meets the Estuary

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Channeling the Future: Lake Merritt Meets the Estuary VOL. 34, NO. 2 WINTER 2015 Channeling the future: Lake Merritt meets the estuary By Naomi Schiff Oakland’s Lake Merritt, originally San Anto- nio Slough, is one of many sloughs, inlets, bays, and marshes along the west coast. As in other coastal regions, many California cities NAOMI SCHIFF arose around these natural features; today one can still see examples of less-built-upon slough and marsh landscapes at Elkhorn Slough and Point Reyes. As it develops, Oakland will transform the links from streams and watersheds to the Estuary, the San Francisco Bay, and the Pacific Ocean. Can some of these changes reconnect us to the bay, give us better access, and convey an understanding of the original landforms? HOW IT WAS Home to many Ohlone/Costanoan settle- ments, the rich bay waters furnished fish and shellfish, supplying sustenance for active vil- lages. The area wasn’t explored by Spanish expeditions until the late 1700s. In 1820, 44 thousand acres, including San Antonio Slough, were granted to Don Luís María Per- alta by Spanish governor Pablo Vicente de A GREAT EGRET WADES into the channel. Nearby, young pickleweed plants grow in wire enclosures to protect them from Canada geese. Former Measure DD Solá. Cattle ranching became the rancho’s manager Joel Peter is experimenting to find the ideal zone at which this salt-tolerant main economic activity. In 1842, after Peral- native plant will thrive. ta’s death, the East Bay land was divided among his sons. over payment for its construction, T.C. ished. But by World War II, the Chamber of Gilman and Carpentier began exacting a toll Commerce was expressing dissatisfaction at THE INFAMOUS HORACE from every person or wagon that traveled the heavy traffic headed into and out of Tales of Oakland’s founding and of Horace across the new bridge across the mouth of downtown, fearing it would impede com- Carpentier’s 1852 acquisition of the entire the slough, about where 12th Street/Lake merce. The war ensued, but by 1950, a proto- waterfront—a main reason for incorporating Merritt Boulevard is today. freeway designed by Oakland City Engineer Oakland as a city—are entertainingly Around the turn of the century, the slough Walter Frickstad provided twelve lanes with recounted by Beth Bagwell, in Oakland: The was dredged, the edges raised, a rock merges, ramps, mid-roadway-bus stop, and Story of a City. “At the third meeting, Car- embankment built, and Lake Merritt was tak- pedestrian tunnels on the filled land between pentier was granted a deed to the waterfront. ing a shape we might recognize. Famously, the City Auditorium and the lake. The impor- . As consideration . he was to pay $5, to in 1906 it sheltered earthquake refugees who tance of this roadway gradually declined with provide a wharf at the foot of Main Street lived in the park, in tents. Soon thereafter, the construction of the Nimitz Freeway, com- (Broadway) and two other wharves, and to public bonds were passed to finance pleted in Oakland around 1958, and Route build a public schoolhouse, which was great- improvements and for a grand new civic 580 in the 1960s. By 2001, community ly desired by the townspeople. On August 27, auditorium. groups had come up with a plan to reconfig- 1853 . the council removed all restrictions ure the area, culminating in the 2002 passage and granted the waterfront to Carpentier ‘in MID-CENTURY CAR MADNESS of a large bond measure, Measure DD, to fee simple forever.’ In other words, one man By 1915, 12th Street had been paved across finance improvements. owned the port of Oakland.” the dam, and the new auditorium opened. In In 1853, after a dispute with the county 1934, the new County Courthouse was fin- See SLOUGH on page 2 Page 2 Slough Continued from page 1 WHAT’S ON FILL? Laney College (1970), the Henry J. Kaiser Convention Center (originally Oakland Audi- torium, 1915), part of the Oakland Museum ROOM OAKLAND HISTORY of California (1969), and roadways stand on fill in what was once part of San Antonio Slough. On the other side of the channel, the Oakland Unified School District’s Paul Robeson administration building (1926) stands on the original shore. MEASURE CHANGES THE PICTURE Now that the Measure DD improvements to 12th Street are nearly complete, DD con- struction is moving forward to reconstruct the bridge and widen the waterway at 10th Street. The next crossing is at the flood gate and pumping station at 7th Street. This Alameda County flood control facility is AERIAL VIEW OF LAKE MERRITT AND ESTUARY intended to prevent a recurrence of the enor- Estuary, and, in an exciting bit of urban plan- considering how to use its structures and land mous flooding that occurred in 1962. If you ning, architects and planners are at work at 2nd Avenue, where a plumbing accident have ever wondered about the high curbs on finding the best way to make a pedestrian caused the administration to move out of the Lakeshore Avenue, consider that when a and bicycle bridge from the channel path to Paul Robeson building. Further discussions large rainstorm coincides with a very high the Bay Trail in the Embarcadero overcross- are expected to result in public hearings in tide, the marsh grows larger, and tries to ing area. In the meantime, Laney College’s spring 2015. reoccupy its former range. 2013 master plan orients some activities At the end of 2014, Oakland’s City Council It is a short distance as the crow flies, but toward the banks of the channel. In addition, approved a Lake Merritt Station Area Plan to because the route from lake edge to Bay the Oakland Unified School District has been Trail is interrupted by four roadways, See SLOUGH on page 3 extremely active train tracks, and a huge free- way, and is surrounded by various institution- al lands, it seems a long way. Now may be the opportunity to reconfigure and to make manifest the ancient connection between San NAOMI SCHIFF Antonio Slough and the bay. Plans are to continue the paths toward the In this issue New members 3 Walking tour photos 4 Preservation notes 5 Bay Bridge in reverse 6 Beulah Heights 7 Louise Jorgensen pageant 8 President’s Message 11 Breuner’s windows 12 OAKLAND UNIFIED SCHOOL DISTRICT is contemplating ideas for its administrative building at 1025 2nd Ave. (the Paul Robeson Building), and Ethel Moore Building. www.oaklandheritage.org OAKLAND HERITAGE ALLIANCE Telephone (510) 763-9218 Winter 2015 Page 3 slough and estuary, Slough and its relationship Continued from page 2 to so many episodes take advantage of BART and the potential for of Oakland histo- more intense development. As a heated pub- ry—presents us lic discussion focused on community benefits with manmade puz- and how to maintain Oakland’s economic zles and natural and cultural diversity in a time of real estate resource conun- growth, the channel was also included in the drums: LOOKING WEST along Embarcadero, a visualization for a study area, and came in for some rezoning. • how best can we pedestrian bridge connecting the channel and the Bay trail. use the many pub- The Auditorium came under examination LINKS FOR MORE INFORMATION licly-owned parcels around the channel? too, as Oakland put out a request for propos- Lake Merritt to Bay Trail Connection: • how can these connected (if awkward) als to reuse it, hoping to capitalize on lake- http://www.lm2bt.com/ open spaces provide the greatest opportuni- edge improvements (see page 5). Lake Merritt Station Area Plan: ties for recreation and outdoor exploration? http://www2.oaklandnet.com/oakca1/groups/ • how can this railroad- and freeway-affect- GOING BACK TO WHERE WE ceda/documents/report/oak048456.pdf ed area contribute to the ecological benefit of STARTED. At the birthplace of our munici- Laney College Facilities Master Plan: the saltwater slough/lake and the estuary, and pality, the channel—with its adjoining his- http://www.laney.edu/wp/business_office/file the creatures and plants that inhabit it? toric buildings, its watery connection of s/2013/06/Laney2012FMP_Draft_LR-as-of- 2.22.13.pdf City of Oakland RFP for Auditorium: http://www2.oaklandnet.com/oakca1/groups/ ceda/documents/webcontent/oak049322.pdf Volunteer opportunities: https://www.face- CITY OF CITY OAKLAND book.com/LakeMerrittWeedWarriors Measure DD Coalition: http://www.water- frontaction.org/dd/ n Welcome to our new members! OHA is pleased to welcome these newest members to our roster: Chris Andrews, Eve Arbogast, Joe & Dana Baca, Anne Bailey, Florent Bernard, Michelle Blackwell, Agatha Briscoe, Warrine Coffey & George W. Young, Rebecca Deville, Holly Eggleston, John Falconer, Stacy Farr, Allan Feinstein, David Foote, Stuart & Jennifer Gunn, Robert & Kathryn Gustafson, Jerry & Michelle Harrison, Diane Heinze, Steven Huss, Karen Ivy & Jim Ringland, Alice Jurow-Charles Altel, Marcia & Sheldon Kabaker, Judy Kahn, Maureen & George Lenahan, Patricia Maulet, Lawrie McDonnell, Linda Mehren & Roger Lambert, Khrishna Jude Moore, Cliff & Liz Moser, Nathaniel Muhler, Robert Obrien, Caitlin Patterson, Tara Reinertson, Kirsten Ritchie, Okashi Robles, Nancy Rowell, Robert Sandoval, Anne Whitacre, Christine Wilder-Abrams, LAKE MERRITT STATION AREA PLAN focuses on open space present and planned Mark Wilson, Mary Ann Wloszek, around the channel area, as shown in this detail. Carol Wood, Edith Yhuel www.oaklandheritage.org OAKLAND HERITAGE ALLIANCE Telephone (510) 763-9218 Page 4 Thanks to our volunteers “And the historical record says it was Fall Building Tours and Presentations: Chris Andrews, Michelle Blackwell, this high . .” David Boysel, Paul Duchscherer, Andreas
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