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Free ebooks ==> www.Ebook777.com www.Ebook777.com Free ebooks ==> www.Ebook777.com Bakers’ secrets for making amazing long-rise loaves at home Slow Dough REAL BREAD CHRIS YOUNG AND THE BAKERS OF THE REAL BREAD CAMPAIGN www.Ebook777.com For Marika Contents Slow Dough: Real Bread ISBN: 978-1-84899-737-0 Chris Young 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 First published in the UK and USA in 2016 by Typeset in Brandon Grotesque and Adobe Jenson Pro 4 Foreword Nourish, an imprint of Watkins Media Limited 19 Cecil Court Colour reproduction by XY Digital 6 The Fight for Better Bread London WC2N 4EZ Printed in China 10 Real Slow Bread [email protected] Publisher’s note: 16 Terms and Techniques While every care has been taken in compiling the recipes for Copyright © Watkins Media Limited 2016 this book, Watkins Media Limited, or any other persons who 23 Equipment Text copyright © Chris Young 2016 have been involved in working on this publication, cannot Photography copyright © Watkins Media Limited 2016 26 Ingredients accept responsibility for any errors or omissions, inadvertent The right of Chris Young to be identified as the Author of or not, that may be found in the recipes or text, nor for 32 Troubleshooting this text has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, any problems that may arise as a result of preparing one of 35 Pre-Ferment Designs and Patents Act of 1988. these recipes. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding or have any special dietary requirements or medical conditions, it is 63 Long Ferment All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced advisable to consult a medical professional before following in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, 105 Sourdough any of the recipes contained in this book. including information storage and retrieval systems, without 153 Leftovers permission in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer Notes: who may quote brief passages in a review. Unless otherwise stated: 170 Beyond Your Kitchen • Use medium fruit and vegetables Managing Editor: Rebecca Woods 171 Bookshelf • Use fresh ingredients, including herbs and spices Editor: David Whitehouse • Do not mix imperial and metric measurements 172 Index Design: Viki Ottewill • 1 teaspoon = 5ml Production: Uzma Taj 176 Role of Honour 1 tablespoon = 15ml Commissioned Photography: Victoria Harley 1 cup = 240ml Food Stylist: Rebecca Woods Prop Stylist: Linda Berlin nourishbooks.com A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library Foreword “You must be mad!” Derisive remarks such as this If that sounds a rather grandiose claim, this book that the flour for our bread is poorer in nutrients life worth living. The same applies to Real Bread were once familiar to anyone announcing their justifies it by setting out the differences between than it once was, even as the enormous cost of made nearby by people whom you know or can intention to quit their job and start a microbakery, Real Bread and industrial loaves in an admirably heart disease, obesity and diabetes indicates that get to know. or even simply to make their own bread. After all, accessible way. The message boils down to “out we should be eating less, but better. Cheap loaves Successful revolutions involve a change of power. supermarket loaves are cheap as chips and they stay with additives, in with fermentation time” and here with little in them have had their day. What we The Real Bread revolution is about more even soft forever. Making your own is a waste of time and simplicity and practicality are leavened with the wry do need are more real bakers whose growing skills than imaginative career changes, artisan bakery you’d have to be a crank to want to bake for a living. humour (not to mention plentiful puns) essential to are rewarded with fair pay, self-respect and a sense start-ups or niche markets. It’s about peacefully the communication of important truths. of fulfilment. Accusations of commercial naivety bordering on and productively taking the power to make bread irrationality certainly came my way in the 1970s As Chris points out in his introduction to this book, One of the most nonsensical accusations made back into our own hands. This book shows why when I was starting a bakery in a small Cumbrian one of the Real Bread Campaign’s main tasks is to against the Campaign by its detractors has been that, and how. If everyone who reads it both uses it and village using wholemeal/wholewheat flour from defend the integrity of concepts such as “sourdough”. by drawing attention to the way industrial loaves are joins the movement, we’ll get closer to our goal of the local watermill. But 40 years on, sales of white “artisan” and “craft” against the opportunism of food made and the undeclared ingredients used in their communities in which everyone lives within walking loaves in the UK are down by 75% since 1974, companies that mislead the public by applying these production, we are somehow “dragging the whole distance of Real Bread. Roll on, as they say. with a concurrent rise in “brown” and wholemeal. words to industrial products and processes that are baking industry down”. But rather than collude in Government figures don’t reveal how much of the far from the “real thing”. the ridiculous pretence that all loaves are equally Andrew Whitley CO-FOUNDER OF THE REAL BREAD CAMPAIGN switch has been away from industrial loaves in good, the Campaign encourages professional bakers This matters, because reducing the mounting favour of Real Bread, but they confirm that the and amateurs alike to make the best bread they can, burden of diet-related ill health in the UK will only bread scene in Britain is changing like never before. using flour from nutritious grains, fermented slowly happen if citizens can make well-informed decisions for maximum digestibility and nourishment, and It was E.F. Schumacher (author of Small is Beautiful) about what to eat. Choosing good bread isn’t that enjoyed as close to their place of origin as possible. who observed that a crank is “a small lever that easy, partly because its real goodness is not always This is where information and a sense of connection causes revolutions”. Perhaps it’s the sense of an evident on the surface, and partly because Real Bread transform bread’s meaning and the power contained uncontrollable reordering of familiar ways that so involves much more than well-made dough. The within it. The home-baked loaf that you place on perturbs the multi-billion-pound loaf industry, dominant model of loaf production and distribution the family table, made from a named flour, perhaps whose market is in evident disarray. But to looks precarious: its high-energy, long-distance, even grown by a known farmer, isn’t savoured by ordinary citizens, this is a benign ferment (of micro- globalized business model isn’t relevant to the those who eat it because it’s cheap, but because it is organisms) whose product will be bread that’s better de-carbonized economy that the future requires. A immeasurably rich with the associations that make for individuals, communities and the biosphere. dysfunctional commoditized grain system ensures 4 Foreword Foreword 5 Free ebooks ==> www.Ebook777.com WHERE WE STAND to this, artificial additives have only been subjected to a relatively short period of testing before being declared As I live and work in London, I know more about safe (or “generally recognized as safe” as the more the bread of Britain than of other countries. Until pragmatic US Food and Drink Administration put it) relatively recently, the future of bread in Britain for food manufacturers using them in their products. looked bleak. Following the Second World War, the number of independent bakeries headed into No one knows for sure, however, if there might be The Fight for what seemed a permanent decline, with a handful any adverse effects from long-term consumption of of industrial giants and multiple retailers rising to the artificial additives found in the modern industrial dominance and helping to speed their demise. loaf and across many people’s diets in other heavily Better Bread processed foods. Can we trust that these things, A particularly dark day for Real Bread historians either individually or in the endless combinations In the words of my father-in-law and dad, an artisan baker (yet) but you can still make brilliant came in July 1961, when the British Baking they’ll turn up in a supermarket shopping basket, respectively: slow down and get real! Real Bread. While the bakers from whom we Industries Research Association unleashed what are truly safe? History is littered with a veritable harvested these recipes are experts, you don’t have later became known as the Chorleywood Bread Since March 2009, I have been the coordinator chemistry set of substances once used by industrial to be one to bake their loaves. The people we most Process (CBP), which takes a shortcut through of the Real Bread Campaign, part of the food and millers and bakers, only to be withdrawn or banned. had in mind when cooking up this book are those dough’s natural fermentation and “ripening” time, farming charity Sustain. Through my work, I’ve They include azodicarbonamide (banned in passionate home bakers, who’ve got the hang of basic slashing it from hours or even days to minutes. come into contact with some great people, many of countries including the UK and Australia but legal loaves and now want to further their flour arranging.