Knitted Bliss
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MostThe Creative CountriesInside: Pg. 13 LOSSES AT SANDER/3 BRITNEY’S 2ND SCENT/12 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • May 5, 2005• $2.00 List Sportswear Knitted Bliss NEW YORK — While most newlyweds celebrate their first anniversary with something made of paper, Amy Krofchick and Brett Perkins are marking the occasion with something cashmere — their Amo & Bretti line, to be exact. The launch collection for fall is full of thin knits, meant to be played with and layered. Here, their cashmere bed jacket and tank, with jeans from Seven For All Mankind. For more on Amo & Bretti, see page 5. Saris and Louis Vuitton: Luxury Brands Eyeing India for Future Growth By Betsy Lowther SCHWEIGER NEW DELHI — The woman in the crimson sari Y MONICA is making a beeline for the cherry bags. Immediately upon stepping into this city’s sole Louis Vuitton store, a quiet boutique in the lobby of the lavish Oberoi hotel, her eyes are on Vuitton’s new monogrammed cherry bag collection. Within minutes, she’s swapped the luxe Y MITSI YAMAGUCHI/CELESTINE; STYLED B Y MITSI YAMAGUCHI/CELESTINE; black leather handbag she carried in for the fruit-emblazoned Speedy model, checking herself out in front of the mirror with a wide smile. The red details on the bag almost exactly match the AGNE TROTT; HAIR AND MAKEUP B AGNE TROTT; color of her bright, floaty sari. See Luxury’s, Page6 MODEL: YULIA DRUMMOND/CHAMP PHOTO BY DONATO SARDELLA; DONATO PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear GENERAL India is considered “the next China” for luxury goods growth and the next ™ 1 few years should bring a rush of brands hoping to establish themselves. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based Jil Sander saw double-digit sales growth, but stayed in the red for 2004 as on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated 3 its parent, Prada Holding, ponders the sale of its Helmut Lang unit. Two years after Congress funded Customs to hire 72 textile specialists and MOTHER, MAY I? 3 investigators, the agency has finally put out the “help wanted” sign. FASHION: Newlyweds Amy Krofchick and Brett Perkins talk about life Today’s moms and daughters give and take fashion advice 5 together and the fall launch of their new knitwear line, Amo & Bretti. Though it’s often been said that April showers fitted blazers, which is a look generally associated DISH: Seven For All Mankind has the ultimate proof of its popularity — a counterfeit problem…Levi’s in La-La Land…Lee goes online. bring May flowers, the merry month of May also brings with younger women,” offers Brent Green, author 8 us that legendary American holiday: Mother’s Day. of Marketing to Leading Edge Baby Boomers. “They’re BEAT: Contemporary and denim companies had a strong showing at the While many retailers try and steer an endless defying the stereotype of aging and defining a style 9 Intermezzo Collections, using the show to highlight additions to their lines. stream of consumers towards “what Mom really that is all their own.” ACTIVE: Spring has reached full blossom in the activewear field and stores wants,” there may likely be an easier determinant of This younger influence on Mom’s dressing habits 10 are seeing brisk sales of fashion-oriented performance merchandise. this most important gift: her child. Chances are, may be evidenced in further data from the Monitor. whatever makes dear daughter tick may likely set In 2004, 48% of women in The Greatest Generation EYE Mom’s heart aflutter, too, especially when it comes stated that their typical new clothing purchases were The company at the American Ballet Theater’s One Night Only gala danced to shopping for apparel. new and different, compared to 4 to Tchaikovsky in tutus and tights…Partying at the Hard Rock in Vegas. “There’s no doubt that most 38% making the claim a decade ago. Classified Advertisements ..................................................................14-15 mothers and daughters shop together Today, women of all ages are and each knows what appeals to the building these wardrobes with a To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is other,” observes Randi Lane, proprietor variety of basics and novelties. [email protected], using the individual’s name. of Catwalk Inc., an Atlanta, Georgia- Typical basics like khakis, denim WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. based fashion show production and tees, comprise an important VOLUME 189, NO. 95. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one company. “It’s really just a question of component of most women’s additional issue in June; two additional issues in April, May, August, October, November and December, and three additional issues in February, March and September, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL who influences whom, and I have a wardrobes, asserts Erickson from OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., feeling that over time, the two are Eddie Bauer. “We just launched a Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill new pant program with a variety of Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, meeting somewhere in the middle.” Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- “We see many women bringing “It’s really about your lifestyle fits and cuts so women can update President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at Mom along while shopping; they’re and your experiences, so it’s their basics. This encourages women additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, both looking,” shares Stefani easy to see why moms and of all ages to try different fits.” ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR Greenfield, a founding force behind daughters shop in pairs and And while a daughter may SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is Scoop NYC, a line of chic boutiques. take cues from each other.” encourage a more modern fit, never required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new “In fact, we like to think that our — Christina Papale, discount the fashion influence subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production Toniq correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, stores are merchandised with such a mother exercises over her daughter. please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild lifestyle statement that it appeals to three generations, “Mothers are the first introduction a daughter has to magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully fashion,” Cotton Incorporated’s Kitchings surmises. screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive and not just two.” these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. “They’re definitely influencing each other,” adds “It’s only natural that a daughter will observe how WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED Lisa Erickson, spokesperson for Eddie Bauer. “Women mom dresses, and decide what she wants to emulate MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART of any age want to be comfortable yet stylish.” or change over time.” WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED “Age is really just a number,” affirms Christina Most experts also agree that the fashion synergy TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE Papale, a spokesperson for Toniq, a brandstrategy between mother and daughter is likely to hit an ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. firm. “It’s really about your lifestyle and your obstacle somewhere around the teen years. “I know experiences, so it’s easy to see why moms and daughters from my own experience with my daughter that the shop in pairs and take cues from each other.” influence is clearly cyclical,” recalls Lane. “When In Brief According to Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Tiffanie was very young, she wanted to dress Monitor™, women from Generation X, today aged just like me. In her teen years, she couldn’t get ● ESCADA HIRE: Cynthia Srednicki has been named director of 26 to 39, were further away Feelings About How You Dress public relations at Escada USA. She succeeds Laura Henson, just as likely to from my style. who left the firm.