Most CreativeThe CountriesInside: Pg. 13 LOSSES AT SANDER/3 BRITNEY’S 2ND SCENT/12 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • May 5, 2005• $2.00 List Sportswear Knitted Bliss

NEW YORK — While most newlyweds celebrate their first anniversary with something made of paper, Amy Krofchick and Brett Perkins are marking the occasion with something cashmere — their Amo & Bretti line, to be exact. The launch collection for fall is full of thin knits, meant to be played with and layered. Here, their cashmere bed jacket and tank, with jeans from Seven For All Mankind. For more on Amo & Bretti, see page 5. Saris and Louis Vuitton: Luxury Brands Eyeing India for Future Growth

By Betsy Lowther SCHWEIGER NEW DELHI — The woman in the crimson sari

Y MONICA is making a beeline for the cherry bags. Immediately upon stepping into this city’s sole Louis Vuitton store, a quiet boutique in the lobby of the lavish Oberoi hotel, her eyes are on Vuitton’s new monogrammed cherry bag collection. Within minutes, she’s swapped the luxe Y MITSI YAMAGUCHI/CELESTINE; STYLED B Y MITSI YAMAGUCHI/CELESTINE; black leather handbag she carried in for the fruit-emblazoned Speedy model, checking herself out in front of the mirror with a wide smile. The red details on the bag almost exactly match the AGNE TROTT; HAIR AND MAKEUP B AGNE TROTT; color of her bright, floaty sari. See Luxury’s, Page6 MODEL: YULIA DRUMMOND/CHAMP PHOTO BY DONATO SARDELLA; DONATO PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear GENERAL India is considered “the next China” for luxury goods growth and the next ™ 1 few years should bring a rush of brands hoping to establish themselves. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based Jil Sander saw double-digit sales growth, but stayed in the red for 2004 as on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated 3 its parent, Prada Holding, ponders the sale of its Helmut Lang unit. Two years after Congress funded Customs to hire 72 textile specialists and MOTHER, MAY I? 3 investigators, the agency has finally put out the “help wanted” sign. FASHION: Newlyweds Amy Krofchick and Brett Perkins talk about life Today’s moms and daughters give and take fashion advice 5 together and the fall launch of their new knitwear line, Amo & Bretti. Though it’s often been said that April showers fitted blazers, which is a look generally associated DISH: Seven For All Mankind has the ultimate proof of its popularity — a counterfeit problem…Levi’s in La-La Land…Lee goes online. bring May flowers, the merry month of May also brings with younger women,” offers Brent Green, author 8 us that legendary American holiday: Mother’s Day. of Marketing to Leading Edge Baby Boomers. “They’re BEAT: Contemporary and denim companies had a strong showing at the While many retailers try and steer an endless defying the stereotype of aging and defining a style 9 Intermezzo Collections, using the show to highlight additions to their lines. stream of consumers towards “what Mom really that is all their own.” ACTIVE: Spring has reached full blossom in the activewear field and stores wants,” there may likely be an easier determinant of This younger influence on Mom’s dressing habits 10 are seeing brisk sales of fashion-oriented performance merchandise. this most important gift: her child. Chances are, may be evidenced in further data from the Monitor. whatever makes dear daughter tick may likely set In 2004, 48% of women in The Greatest Generation EYE Mom’s heart aflutter, too, especially when it comes stated that their typical new clothing purchases were The company at the American Ballet Theater’s One Night Only gala danced to shopping for apparel. new and different, compared to 4 to Tchaikovsky in tutus and tights…Partying at the Hard Rock in Vegas. “There’s no doubt that most 38% making the claim a decade ago. Classified Advertisements ...... 14-15 mothers and daughters shop together Today, women of all ages are and each knows what appeals to the building these wardrobes with a To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is other,” observes Randi Lane, proprietor variety of basics and novelties. [email protected], using the individual’s name. of Catwalk Inc., an Atlanta, Georgia- Typical basics like khakis, denim WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. based fashion show production and tees, comprise an important VOLUME 189, NO. 95. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one company. “It’s really just a question of component of most women’s additional issue in June; two additional issues in April, May, August, October, November and December, and three additional issues in February, March and September, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL who influences whom, and I have a wardrobes, asserts Erickson from OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., feeling that over time, the two are Eddie Bauer. “We just launched a Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill new pant program with a variety of Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, meeting somewhere in the middle.” Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- “We see many women bringing “It’s really about your lifestyle fits and cuts so women can update President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at Mom along while shopping; they’re and your experiences, so it’s their basics. This encourages women additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, both looking,” shares Stefani easy to see why moms and of all ages to try different fits.” ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR Greenfield, a founding force behind daughters shop in pairs and And while a daughter may SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is Scoop NYC, a line of chic boutiques. take cues from each other.” encourage a more modern fit, never required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new “In fact, we like to think that our — Christina Papale, discount the fashion influence subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production Toniq correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, stores are merchandised with such a mother exercises over her daughter. please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild lifestyle statement that it appeals to three generations, “Mothers are the first introduction a daughter has to magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully fashion,” Cotton Incorporated’s Kitchings surmises. screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive and not just two.” these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. “They’re definitely influencing each other,” adds “It’s only natural that a daughter will observe how WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED Lisa Erickson, spokesperson for Eddie Bauer. “Women mom dresses, and decide what she wants to emulate MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART of any age want to be comfortable yet stylish.” or change over time.” WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED “Age is really just a number,” affirms Christina Most experts also agree that the fashion synergy TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE Papale, a spokesperson for Toniq, a brandstrategy between mother and daughter is likely to hit an ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. firm. “It’s really about your lifestyle and your obstacle somewhere around the teen years. “I know experiences, so it’s easy to see why moms and daughters from my own experience with my daughter that the shop in pairs and take cues from each other.” influence is clearly cyclical,” recalls Lane. “When In Brief According to Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Tiffanie was very young, she wanted to dress Monitor™, women from Generation X, today aged just like me. In her teen years, she couldn’t get ● ESCADA HIRE: Cynthia Srednicki has been named director of 26 to 39, were further away Feelings About How You Dress public relations at Escada USA. She succeeds Laura Henson, just as likely to from my style. who left the firm. Most recently, Srednicki was the owner of favor comfort Gen X Baby Boomers Greatest Generation I knew she Vision PR, which represented clients such as Silhouette and over fashion 1995 2004 +/- 1995 2004 +/- 1995 2004 +/- was maturing Daniel Swarovski Eyewear, which will close at the end of this as women Never Get Another 41% 31% -10.4 36% 42% 6.7 32% 42% 10.1 when I caught month. Earlier, she was at Nadine Johnson Inc., and before that, from the Baby Chance At A First her sneaking Robert Marc. She reports to Lawrence C. DeParis, chief operat- Boomer and Impression back into my ing officer of Escada USA. Greatest Can’t Judge A 59% 69% 10.4 64% 58% 6.7 68% 58% -10.1 closets.” ● Generation Book By Its Cover Greenfield FACTORING IN ATLANTA: Wells Fargo Century, the largest bank- eras, today aged 40 to 58, and 59 to 70, respectively. from Scoop also sees a correlation between price and owned factoring firm in the U.S., opened a regional office in Atlanta to support an expanding client base in the region. Thomas When asked if they were willing to sacrifice comfort a daughter’s proclivity to covet her mother’s property. V. Pizzo, president and chief executive officer of the firm, said for fashion, an overwhelming 74% of Gen “The better the label – which Mom can afford more Stuart Brister joined the company as executive vice president to Xers, 79% of Baby Boomers and 80% of Greatest likely than her twenty-something daughter – the run the Southeast Region business. Brister formerly worked in Generation respondents said they were not. more the daughter is going to want it. The daughter the financial services groups of GMAC and Nationsbanc. Wells “Today it’s fairly easy to find clothing that looks smart is happy to tag along while Mom buys it and hope Fargo Century is a Wells Fargo company with headquarters in but wears well,” cites Kim Kitchings, senior director that she will share it, if not buy her one.” New York and offices in Los Angeles and San Francisco. of research and planning for Cotton Incorporated. There is even something more precious at stake, “Retailers have gotten very good at recognizing the according to author Green. “I believe that the ● SURF & TURF: Lafuma SA, the French outdoor apparel firm, importance of comfort in modern fashion.” process of shopping together is just as important, if and French surfwear maker Oxbow are looking to team up. The Moms are clearly dressing for success in the last not more important, than what actually gets sportswear specialists said they were in talks and have suspend- ed trading of their shares on the Paris stock market. The compa- decade. Forty-two percent of respondents in the purchased on a shopping trip,” he relates. “Mothers nies said they would issue a statement next week. A deal would Baby Boomer and Greatest Generation groups told and daughters get to exercise their long-standing be the latest merger in the sector. Last month, Quiksilver bought the Monitor that one never gets a second chance at a influences over each other.” Rossignol, and earlier this week Germany’s Adidas-Salomon said first impression; a lesser 36% and 32% of women in Agrees Erickson, “Shopping together is a great it would sell its Salomon ski division to Finland’s Amer Sports. these respective groups felt the same way in 1995. way to bond.” Oxbow went public in July 2004, when the company issued 1.4 “Today’s mothers are certainly younger in their This story is one in a series of articles based on findings million new shares, representing 37 percent of its capital. attitude towards dressing,” attests Lane. “They’re not from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ bound by strict parameters of what’s ‘age-appropriate’ tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these pages, ● NEW COLE HAAN VP: Ellen Rodriguez has been named senior as women once were. It’s easy to see why there would each story will focus on a specific topic as it relates to the vice president of international and licensing for Cole Haan, a be crossover in what a daughter and what a mom new position. She will report to Matt Rubel, chairman and chief American women’s wear consumer and her attitudes executive officer, and also serve on the company’s executive might wear today.” and behavior regarding clothing, committee. She was most recently corporate vice president of “Through staying fit and keeping young, mothers appearance, fashion, fiber selection and international licensing and strategic planning for Kenneth Cole. today are able to wear jeans, high-heeled boots and many other timely, relevant subjects. Cole Haan, which has 48 stores in the U.S. and Canada, is look- ing to expand its global presence. WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 5, 2005 3 WWD.COM Prada Says Sander in Red, Considering Lang Sale

By Amanda Kaiser knowledged the company is in talks to Helmut sell the Helmut Lang brand, but Prada MILAN — Prada Holding NV said Wed- Lang failed to identify any potential buyers. nesday that its Jil Sander unit stayed in Press reports have named Diesel and the red in 2004, even as it saw double- Tommy Hilfiger as contenders, but digit sales growth. sources close to both companies have de- The news came as Prada confirmed nied their interest in buying the Lang widespread speculation it is pondering brand. A Tommy Hilfiger spokesman de- the sale of another of its labels that has clined to comment and a Diesel spokes- seen the departure of its namesake design- woman issued the following statement: er, Helmut Lang. WWD reported on March “We are always aware of what is going on 25 that three potential buyers were said to in the market, but right now, we are very be looking at the Lang business, but Prada busy with the management and growth of declined to comment at that time. what we already have.” Jil Sander is shifting its fiscal year to Similarly, sources at several private end on Jan. 31 to coincide with that of equity companies said they haven’t heard Prada Holding, creating a onetime 13- from Prada or its bankers regarding month reporting period. For the 13 Lang. They downplayed any potential in- months ended Jan. 31, Jil Sander’s net terest in the brand, noting financial loss- loss widened to 29.6 million euros, or $37 es and a complex situation resulting million, and sales totaled 153.1 million from the namesake designer’s departure euros, or $191.4 million. earlier this year. Many are speculating All dollar figures have been converted that a buyer might forge an agreement from the euro at average exchange rates Gian Giacomo with Lang to return. for the period to which they refer. Ferraris One source estimated Prada chief Jil Sander said sales for the 12-month Patrizio Bertelli is asking about 100 mil- period ending Dec. 31 rose 10 percent to lion euros, or $128.92 million, for Lang. 137.5 million euros, or $170.5 million, combination of an adverse exchange rate the namesake label helped boost sales in Unlike Jil Sander AG, which is still pub- from 124.9 million euros, or $141.1 mil- environment, store operating expenses 2004. As reported, Sander made peace licly traded thanks to a small float, Lang is lion, in 2003 on “noteworthy” retail and product development costs. In a with Prada and returned to her post as 100 percent Prada-controlled and there growth in Germany and elsewhere in statement, the company said it expects to creative director in May 2003, only to de- are few numbers available for valuations. Europe. reduce losses in 2005 by implementing part again in November of last year. The most recent figures show Lang’s 2003 Prada did not provide a net loss figure cost-control measures and an “aggressive In February, a design team and sales declining 33.1 percent to 27.9 million for the 12-month period to directly com- restructuring plan” targeting production, Sander’s longtime stylist, Joe McKenna, euros, or $31.5 million, from 41.6 million pare with Jil Sander’s 2003 net loss of logistics and retail. presented the first Jil Sander collection euros, or $39.5 million, in 2002. 28.4 million euros, or $32.1 million. “Last year was certainly a difficult year to bow since the designer’s departure. In March, Prada said it was closing In January of this year, Jil Sander chief from the group; however, we are taking the The fall 2005 collection won rave reviews Helmut Lang’s New York office just two executive officer Gian Giacomo Ferraris necessary steps in terms of organizational for sticking to Sander’s clean, minimalist months after the designer left the compa- estimated that 2004 sales on a 12-month restructuring and cost control to bring Jil aesthetic and churning out high-belted ny. There’s talk that recently appointed basis would jump 13.8 percent after losing Sander back to profitability,” Ferraris said coats and bubble skirts in black and neu- designers have been let go and specula- nearly 10 percent in 2003. He said sales in a statement. “Our goal is to continue to tral hues. WWD wrote: “Whatever their tion that stores will be closed. The Prada growth likely would slow to a single-digit grow the top line through our core ready- current relationship may be with Sander spokesman said he was not aware of any increase for 2005. The company has said it to-wear business, but also through in- herself, McKenna and the rest of the store closings and declined to comment wants to generate a profit at the operating creased licensing revenues, widening our team captured her essence with almost on whether design jobs had been cut. EBITDA level, which includes some one- accessories range and selectively expand- eerie clarity.” (McKenna is a consultant Lang himself has set up an office in New time items, in fiscal 2006. ing our distribution network.” for WWD’s sister publication, W.) York’s SoHo called HL-art to evaluate fu- Jil Sander blamed the 2004 losses on a Ferraris said Jil Sander’s return to Meanwhile, a Prada spokesman ac- ture projects. Chertoff Vows to Fill Customs Posts European Sales Boost Guess By Kristi Ellis overall enforcement activities of ment area, which might speed up NEW YORK — Strong demand for accessories and denim in 346 percent in 2004 compared the process. Europe drove an eye-popping 980 percent surge in first-quarter WASHINGTON — Two years after with 2003, an increase of 67 per- Dole said in a statement: profits and a 40.6 percent jump in revenues at Guess Inc. Congress approved funding, U.S. cent in sites visited, with 764 more “While I’m heartened the admin- For the three months ended April 2, the Los Angeles-based re- Customs & Border Protection textile manufacturers reviewed. istration is finally moving for- tailer earned $8.2 million, or 18 cents a share, compared with has just hung out the “for hire” Hayes, Rep. Sue Myrick (R., ward on this, it is my fervent $756,000, or 2 cents, in the year-earlier period. Analysts had been sign for 72 textile specialists and N.C.) and Sen. Elizabeth Dole (R., hope that it will proceed expedi- calling for a profit of 3 cents. investigators to fight violations N.C.) sent letters to Customs offi- tiously and complete this hiring The stellar results were partly driven by strength in its wholly such as transshipments. cials and Chertoff inquiring about ahead of schedule.” owned subsidiary, Guess Italia SRL, acquired in October. The Homeland Security Secretary allegations that the department The domestic textile indus- company bought 90 percent of the assets and shares of Maco Michael Chertoff, trying to ease failed to properly allocate $9.5 try, which initially raised the Apparel SpA, the Florence-based licensee of Guess jeanswear for lawmakers’ concerns, said in a million in congressionally ap- concerns with lawmakers, said women and men in Europe as well as the assets of 10 European letter to Rep. Robin Hayes (R., proved funding to hire the 72 tex- Chertoff ’s letter left many ques- Guess stores operated by Fingen SpA for an undisclosed amount. N.C.) that by the end of 2006 the tile specialists and investigators. tions unanswered. The deal closed in early January. agency expects to fill all of the Funding for the additional “I am troubled by the letter “Europe as a region benefited from very robust sales of acces- positions, which will include at personnel at the Textile Enforce- because it is short on specifics in sories and stronger-than-expected performance from the least 17 overseas posts and a ment Division was provided in regard to how many [textile in- European jeanswear business we just acquired. Our domestic “large number” of import spe- the fiscal year 2004 and 2005 vestigators] they are going to ac- wholesale business and licensing operations also had improved cialists, audit, analytic and in- Homeland Security appropria- tually hire this year and what the results in the quarter,” said Carlos Alberini, president and chief vestigative staff. tions bills. timing is,” said Auggie Tantillo, operating officer of Guess, in a written statement released after “I agree that textile transship- “I have to acknowledge that executive director of the Ameri- the close of the stock market Wednesday. ment is a difficult problem that some progress is finally being can Manufacturing Trade Action Guess said its quarterly net income, when stated in U.S. dol- requires continued focus of our made, but I’m disappointed in Coalition. “Why does the indus- lars, also benefited from a strong euro. enforcement efforts,” Chertoff the timetable,” Hayes said in an try have to wait another year- Total revenues climbed to $215.6 million, including $26.3 mil- wrote in the letter dated May 3. interview. “I understand Chertoff and-a-half to get something done lion in revenue from the European acquisition, from $153.3 mil- “We have devoted a significant inherited this and there will be that Congress appropriated over lion in the first quarter of 2004. By division, sales in the company’s amount of the department’s time lost in the transition from a year ago? It clearly shows this U.S. and Canadian retail operations rose 17.1 percent to $116.5 agent and specialist manpower one secretary to another, but that is not a priority.” million with same-store sales up 4.5 percent. Wholesale sales, on textile enforcement (more doesn’t change the perilous na- Tantillo said he is still seeking which exclude Europe, were $31.1 million, up 10.6 percent. Sales than 280 full-time equivalent em- ture of the position we find our- information on how many ship- in Europe spiked 283 percent to $56.6 million and licensing sales ployees this year) with spending selves in.” ments were seized last year, the totaled $11.4 million, an increase of 4.3 percent. in excess of $23 million.” Hayes said he plans to hold number of companies that were Separately, the firm said April same-store sales fell 1.2 percent, Chertoff, who took over from follow-up discussions with the fined, the total amount of penal- and total sales in the four weeks rose 8.4 percent to $39.4 million. Tom Ridge on Feb. 15, did not agency to inquire whether expe- ties assessed and the percentage Shares of Guess closed up 0.4 percent at $14.38 in Wednesday address why there was such a rienced and trained Customs of imports, which totaled $83 bil- trading on the New York Stock Exchange. long delay in the hiring process. people can be shifted from other lion last year, which were actual- — Meredith Derby He did point to an increase in areas into the textile enforce- ly inspected. 4 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 5, 2005 WWD.COM

Anjelica K.D. Nielsen’s Rating Huston Lang

NEW YORK — There’s something about Connie Nielsen’s austere Scand- eye® inavian beauty and cool self-possession that doesn’t lend itself to playing comic heroines or witless bimbos. Instead, the Danish actress tends to be cast as Bob Van the long-suffering, strong-willed type Breda and — Joaquin Phoenix’s stoic sister in Dallas “Gladiator” and the object of Robin Price-Van Williams’ creepy obsession in “One Breda Hour Photo.” Her latest project, “Brothers,” which opens Friday, is no exception. In the Danish film, she plays Sarah, a brilliantly composed, Mixed Repertoire staunchly loyal mother of two caught in a love triangle between her hus- LOS ANGELES — At American Ballet Theater’s One Night Only gala last Thursday, the band, a former prisoner of war in mostly teenaged company performed to Tchaikovsky in tutus and tights, then Afghanistan, and his wayward but lov- changed into their party clothes — which ranged from miniskirts to Uggs — to ing brother. boogie down to salsa and hip-hop. “I think it’s a good idea to shake it up, make it a “I read the script for ‘Brothers’ dur- bit younger and more hip,” said Center Dance Association founder Liane Weintraub. ing a time when I was feeling very im- While Weintraub’s co-hosts, Anjelica Huston, Robert Graham, Danica Perez and potent inside and watching the news of Kimberly Emerson, had a civilized dinner in one-half of the Dorothy Chandler the war,” explains the leggy, Valentino- Pavilion, philanthropist Maria Bell held court in a sleek lounge with 80 ABT dancers, clad Nielsen, who’s perched near a who munched on french fries and steak kabobs. “It’s like a bar mitzvah on one side window in a suite at the Regency so and a wedding on the other,” observed one awestruck guest. she can draw on an endless supply of Black was the new black a few nights later at the Museum of Contemporary Art’s Marlboro Lights. “A couple weeks be- annual gala, where trustee Dallas Price-Van Breda, the evening’s honoree, asked guests fore, there had been these wife-killings to dress not in their regular black-tie rigs, but in head-to-toe black. Some 600 guests at Fort Bragg by soldiers who were obliged, including board president Cliff Einstein and his wife, Sandy; supercollector Eli coming back from the first tour of duty Broad; UCLA Hammer museum director Ann Philbin; actress Mimi Rogers; in Afghanistan. Honor Fraser, and artists Ed Ruscha, John Baldessari and Francesco Vezzoli. “I remember that I was struck by In fact, there was so much inky darkness that it was hard to see who this sense of tragedy. I didn’t feel like Connie Nielsen was who during cocktails in the museum’s cavernous Geffen they were bad guys. I felt that those Contemporary space. What you could see clearly were the images of were men — human beings — that had been through a trying situation and had come back artworks projected on the walls —- all pieces from Price-Van Breda’s

and not known how to deal with what they had seen and done and had no way of fitting into personal collection. ▲ the society they were coming back to.” “You see, there was a method to my Maria Bell Given this was the first movie in her 20-year career that Nielsen filmed in her homeland, madness,” said Price-Van Breda, a $10 million she was initially apprehensive about the role and worked with a voice coach to make her donor to MOCA. “When they asked me if I plummy accent more working-class. “I thought the Danish might judge me harshly,” says would be the honoree, I told them I was happy Nielsen, who lives in the West Village with her 15-year-old son, Sebastian, and dates to do it, but that I’d rather honor the artists.” Metallica’s Lars Ulrich. But her moving performance in “Brothers” garnered her best actress The works shown during the evening — awards from both the Danish Academy Awards and the San Sebastian Film Festival. from Los Angeles artists such as Chris Burden, And her upcoming films aren’t exactly light fare either — she recently finished a World Ed Moses, Kevin Appel, Robert Graham and John War II film with Benjamin Bratt and Joseph Fiennes and now is shooting “The Situation” in Baldessari — were just a small sampling of Morocco, in which she plays a journalist covering the war in Iraq. But there’s laughter, of Price Van-Breda’s eclectic holdings. sorts, ahead — Nielsen is happy to report she also has completed the black comedy “Ice “You could probably dissect my collection and Harvest” with John Cusack and Billy Bob Thorton. criticize it,” she allowed. “But that’s not the “I really enjoyed doing comedy and would love to do more of it. The funny thing is that I point. I’m not trying to establish the primo, actually started out doing them,” says Nielsen, who was 18 when she starred opposite Jerry thoughtful, exhaustive collection. I’m buying what Francesco Vezzoli Lewis in “Par où t’es rentré? On t’a pas vu sortir.” “He was my first movie kiss.” I like right now. For me, it’s instant gratification.” — Anamaria Wilson

LAS VEGAS — A plethora of 1:10 a.m. Jessica Simpson and her knitting a scarf, while Nicky Bijou Phillips Robbie Williams MAGE rockers, randy actors and the Nick-free posse breeze past a Hilton, clad in a pool-appropriate women who love them doorman while her mother yells, black shorts jumpsuit, helps Las descended upon Sin City last “Fred Durst is with us!” as the Vegas mayor Oscar Goodman weekend to help Peter Morton laconic rocker shuffles to catch up. present comedian Jeff Beacher fete the 10th anniversary of his with a key to the city as fishnet- Hard Rock Hotel and Casino. SATURDAY, APRIL 30 drenched go-go dancers jiggle on (Meanwhile, elsewhere on the 12:30 p.m. Poolside cabanas are a black fabric-draped stage on strip, Steve Wynn drew a more already at capacity with the likes the fake beach. soigné crowd of Anna Wintour, of Lance Bass, Jesse Metcalf of Oscar de la Renta and Manolo “Desperate Housewives” and 1:20 p.m. Jessica Alba and Blahnik, while the sporty set, Chris Kattan, who don’t seem too pseudo-beau Cash Warren make including Teri Hatcher, Matt Lauer interested in the bikini-clad an appearance. and Catherine Zeta-Jones, swung crowd, including Kimberly away at Michael Douglas’ charity Stewart, who passes the time 2:45 p.m. Shannon Elizabeth beats golf tournament at the private Dave Navarro in a celebrity poker golf course Cascada.) A few tournament. “I think guys snippets from the 36-hour underestimate women card circus: players,” she says with a shrug. Perry and a few new best friends FRIDAY, APRIL 29 are perched. “This is the worst 8 p.m. At the outdoor Bon Jovi as several silicon-enhanced 9 p.m. A khaki-clad Jennifer show I’ve ever played. Can you concert, Zeta-Jones and Douglas women grab his behind from the Meyer and Toby Maguire collect all be quiet?” Martin pleaded rock out in the bleachers while stage pit. their room keys at VIP check-in, repeatedly (though still few could Heather Locklear and daughter then rush off to hear Meyer’s pal, hear him). Ava watch Richie Sambora sing SUNDAY, MAY 1 Jenny Lewis, and band Rilo Kiley “I’ll Be There For You” from the 9 a.m. David Spade eats breakfast open for Coldplay at The Joint. 12:30 a.m. The crowd moves on to wings. C-list troika Cris Judd, alone at Mr. Lucky’s Cafe while subterranean club Body English Wilmer Valderrama and Joey reading The Los Angeles Times, 10:30 p.m. Chris Martin and the and proceeds to dance the night Fatone sway in sync to the ballad. and several rockers from Incubus boys try to bring down the house, away in another cramped VIP and Linkin Park grab a bite but are barely audible over the balcony area while awaiting a 2:30 a.m. Robbie Williams before heading on to the next drunken socializing in the VIP performance by Eighties rapper regales the Body English crowd desert oasis, the Coachella balcony, where Bridget Hall, Tone-Loc (who finally makes his with Camp Freddy’s version of music festival. Kimberly Stewart Courteney Cox Arquette, Matthew appearance at 3:30 a.m.). Queen’s “Fat-Bottomed Girls” — Marcy Medina NIELSEN PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; ABT AND MOCA BY TYLER BOYE; WILLIAMS AND PHILIPS BY ALEX BERLINER FOR BEIMAGES; STEWART BY WIREI BY ALEX BERLINER FOR BEIMAGES; STEWART WILLIAMS AND PHILIPS BY TYLER BOYE; ABT AND MOCA BY MITRA; ROBERT NIELSEN PHOTO BY Party Chips WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 5, 2005 5 WWD.COM Knitted Bliss Husband- NEW YORK — The first year of and-wife marriage is about so much more than kissing and cuddling. There’s team Brett also the hassle of joint taxes and Perkins bill-paying, not to mention figuring and Amy out who gets which drawer. But Krofchick. that’s nothing compared with the task that was at hand for newlyweds Amy Krofchick and Brett Perkins, owners of the An image from knitwear line Amo & Bretti (named Double D’s new for their family nicknames). fall campaign. “We got married in May 2004 and then just started working on the line right away,” says Krofchick, the creative half of the Double D Broadens Range duo. And because she’s a third- generation knitter, launching such By Holly Haber a collection was second nature for her. “Giving a knitted item was DALLAS — Known for fashion inspired by Western heritage, always an expression of love when Double D Ranch has evolved to offer embellished styles that I was growing up,” Krofchick says. seem more suitable for rock stars than cowgirls. Yet the company It was also a sign of approval from is still considered a Western label and doesn’t have much pres- her mother, Katy. If Krofchick ence as a national brand. brought home a boyfriend that In an effort to remedy that, the family-run firm is preparing a mom liked, she’d ask him, “What fall advertising campaign to thrust it onto the national stage and are your colors?” Not long portray Double D purely as fashion and not ranchwear. afterward, he’d be presented with “We’ve been pushing the design; it’s really not Western,” said a homespun blanket as a designer Cheryl McMullen. “Less than 10 percent of our stores are welcome-to-the-family gesture.

▲ Amo & Bretti’s Western stores.” lightweight Krofchick, 29, puts the same McMullen started the business in 1989 with a Navajo-style cashmere knits.▲ thoughtful care into her whisper- Pendleton wool blanket jacket that was a quick success. Double D thin cashmere sweaters and has since expanded to offer a 200-piece sportswear collection, tanks, which come in understated Southwestern jewelry, leather handbags, belts, furniture and home creams, pastels and black. All the furnishings such as pillows. looks are monotone with subtle With McMullen in charge of design, her sisters, Audrey Franz details such as an oversized and Hedy Carter, manage sales and production, respectively, collar, big buttons or crocheted while their mother, Margie McMullen, handles finance. Dad Doug trim. “We wanted to make a McMullen was the first sales rep and gave the line its name, knitted garment that’s feminine which stands for “Doug and Daughters.” He has retired and is de- and unique,” she says. “Our girl is voted to collecting Harley-Davidson motorcycles. The family lives someone who goes to a party and on ranches in and around Yoakum, Tex., population 7,249, and attracts attention — not in a loud raises cattle branded with two interlocked Ds. The company occu- way, but because of the way she pies six buildings in downtown Yoakum, and manufactures in the carries herself, because there’s U.S. as well as in China and India. something about her style.” Expansion is driving Double D’s attempt to shake its authentic That’s just what Krofchick Western image. The firm does most of its $8 million in annual sales does, says her clearly smitten with about 450 specialty stores in the West and Midwest, as well as in husband, who admits he had a Nordstrom in the Rocky Mountains and Dillard’s in the Southwest. crush on her when they were high Now its goal is to develop retail accounts on the East Coast. school sophomores in Canada. The Double D already has customers in the East, with 90 percent of two didn’t connect romantically sales from its two-year-old transactional Web site, ddranchwear.com, until a few years ago in Los coming from such shoppers, many of whom have discovered the Angeles, where they’re now based. label while traveling, Franz noted. SCHWEIGER Perkins, 30, takes care of the To enhance the appeal to that demographic, Double D pro- business aspect of the line, aiming duced an edgy fall campaign shot in downtown Los Angeles by to fill a hole he sees in the knit Larry Bartholomew. It has a rock ’n’ roll theme and the tag line, market. “The Missonis are making “Turn it up.” The images, such as a model reclining on a Harley magnificent garments, but for most in a leopard-print fur bolero, cropped top, jeans and an Indian people, the price point is not very beaded belt, are intended to catch a more urban audience. attainable,” says the former “It’s a multipronged effort to drive new traffic to the Web, stockbroker. “But if something’s where we are creating a much more robust e-commerce site, and mass produced, it’s manufactured to get some East and West Coast retail presence,” explained Alan with a generic fit for the biggest Lidgi, whose Lidgi Design agency produced the ads. The company range of marketability.” Enter the plans to begin the campaign in the August issue of the New York luxe pieces of Amo & Bretti, with Times Style Magazine. wholesale prices that range from An American history buff, Cheryl McMullen always has found $69 for a basic tank to $165 for a ideas for her designs in books and her collections of Native shawl-collared cardigan. Retail American beadwork, pottery and dolls, as well as old quilts and runs from $179 to $418. vintage clothes and textiles. She’s now channeling embroidered Amo & Bretti’s launch season, Moroccan styles and jewelry once worn by Talitha Getty, Jim fall 2005, will be carried at Fred Morrison and Jimi Hendrix. Segal in Santa Monica, Calif., and Although the line can be merchandised with a strong about 30 specialty boutiques Southwestern feeling and is a favorite among women going to around the country, including Western-themed charity galas, it also has chic items that could be at Fahrenheit 451 in Westhampton, home anywhere, such as studded leather jackets or leather belts N.Y., and Bleu in Los Angeles, but lavishly beaded with Native American motifs. A top seller in the fall the brand has yet to crack the sportswear collection is a lambsuede shirt with silver embroidery Manhattan market. Krofchick and and crystals. It wholesales for $289. Double D also did well with an Perkins hope to impress the asymmetrical cotton skirt knitted in a zigzag pattern for $110, and a stores they like to visit when cognac leather jacket dotted with more than 2,000 studs for $349. they’re here — Barneys New Among Double D’s key specialty accounts are Amen Wardy in Yo rk, Henri Bendel, Bergdorf Aspen, Colo.; Simply Santa Fe in Santa Fe, N.M.; Jackson Hole Goodman, Kirna Zabête, Scoop Clothiers in Jackson Hole, Wyo., and Fashion Reflection in and Intermix. Whitesboro, Tex. And maybe after that, the pair Maverick, a high-end Western specialty store and saloon in the will get a chance to do the kinds historic Fort Worth Stockyards, has bought Double D since the of things normal newlyweds get to first collection. do. “We haven’t even had a “Double D is selling better for us than it ever has,” said Susie honeymoon yet,” says Perkins. Ward, buyer. “Some of the knit things can go anywhere, while some “Amo & Bretti is our baby,” pieces just punch some Western attitude. Western is so big and dif- adds Krofchick. “It doesn’t talk ferent than it has been before. It is funkier. That’s what we’re doing.” yet or give back, but it will.” PHOTO BY DONATO SARDELLA; MODEL: MONICA STYLED BY DONATO PHOTO BY MITSI YAMAGUCHI/CELESTINE; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY TROTT; YULIA DRUMMOND/CHAMPAGNE — Nandini D’Souza 6 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 5, 2005

The Taj Mahal hotel in Mumbai, which boasts such stores as Louis Vuitton, Mont Blanc, Canali and Girard-Perregaux. PHOTO BY LARRY LEE/CORBIS PHOTO BY Luxury’s Frontier: Tapping

Continued from page one they’re not forced to rush in at the last minute once embracing a very Western style of daily dress, they still Welcome to the world of fashion in modern India, again. have closets full of these traditional Indian designs, where traditional styles like the sari and brand new lux- The similarities between the two countries, at least which are still the standard formal attire for the coun- ury must-haves are starting to coexist. It’s an interesting on paper, are undeniable. Both have populations of try’s frequent, wedding-heavy social functions. mix not seen in many other places in the world, and re- more than a billion people (the two combined make up The result has put foreign retailers in a position tailers couldn’t be happier: After all, India is consid- nearly 40 percent of the world’s population), which where, unlike China, they need to meet the need for ered by many to be “the next China” as far as luxury makes for an enormous amount of potential customers. Western goods while still being somewhat mindful of consumption and development, and the next few years Both have quickly growing economies and emerging India’s own fashion history. “This is a culture that still are expected to bring in a rush of foreign brands hoping wealthy classes with an increasing number of business- needs Indian clothes a lot,” said Motwane. “I could to establish themselves before an expected retail boom. people and entrepreneurs who have lots of cash to never have a wardrobe of all Western clothes. But what Expansion into the country is happening already. spend. And both have been opening their doors to we’re seeing is that the Western clothes are starting to Louis Vuitton, frequently among the first luxury brands Western ideas, companies and lifestyles over the past blend in very well. A woman can wear a suit to the of- to enter a potential market (they had the foresight to decade. fice and then a sari in the evening to go out. Or she can open in China 13 years ago), now has two stores in These alluring traits have positioned India and wear a salwar kameez to the office and then a short India: the two-year-old shop at the Oberoi and a bou- China as prime retail spots, and foreign brands are be- dress to go out. We have been able to keep our tradition- tique that opened in September in the swank Taj Mahal ginning to salivate over the potential success in both al clothes and mix our wardrobes with Western styles.” hotel in Mumbai, the city formerly known as Bombay. markets in the next few decades. But despite the basic But though big-name foreign brands are increasingly Chanel opened its first India store last month in New similarities, the two neighboring countries have many showing up in the Indian mainstream, what is different Delhi’s Imperial Hotel. And Donatella Versace just differences that will shape the way foreign luxury about Indian customers, unlike those in many other made a splash on the front page of the country’s nation- brands — many of which are now established in China Asian countries, is that they still prefer buying pieces al newspapers when she announced, during a visit to — will start to approach the Indian market in the next that are unique or less mass-produced — a trait they’ve Mumbai in March, that Versace would be opening five few years. carried over from their traditional clothes, which are boutiques in the country next year. The main distinction between China and India is often custom-made and always colorful and creative. “As soon as [China’s market] started to grow, every- possibly most obvious on the streets of each country’s “The Indian customer is very individualistic,” said one began looking at India’s population and demo- main cities. China, which was closed off to the outside Prasanna Bhaskar, India retail manager for Louis graphics and realized that they needed to include us in world for decades under the Communist regime, had Vuitton. “You will not see 30 people carrying the exact their global plan as well,” said Superna R. Motwane, ed- long abandoned fancy fashions for the dark, simple suits same bag in this market. Unlike a place like Hong Kong, itor in chief and publisher of Indian versions of that are still daily attire for many in Beijing, Shanghai where you do not need to remember what bag you sold L’Officiel and Seventeen magazines. “A lot of people are and elsewhere. When Western brands began trickling in to a customer’s sister-in-law, in India you do. They do banking on India as the new China, and we’re all just about 15 years ago, their colors and styles were seen as not want to be sold the same design.” keeping our fingers crossed that it actually happens.” a breath of fresh air for fashion lovers who previously What’s also a challenge for foreign brands is setting A Merrill Lynch report issued last fall predicts that had to work with the dowdy shapes and gloomy palettes up a high-end, stand-alone store in a country where India, which currently has around 5 million luxury con- sold at home. shopping has long meant a trip to a local market. A sumers, is about a decade behind China right now as far India, on the other hand, has never lost its sense of dearth of central destination malls has, for now, forced as market development. The past few years in China traditional style even as its wealthier consumers have brands into safe spots like the lobbies of high-end ho- have seen many companies scrambling to open stores developed an interest in Western designers, travel and tels. Foreign retailers in India are finding that they’re and establish a presence before the country’s retail luxury brands. A walk through the busy streets of New still in untested territory, which often presents difficul- market explodes, as it’s expected to do in the next five Delhi or Mumbai shows that women regularly wear ties that are not unlike the problems they faced in to 10 years. Now that India is being identified as the saris or the salwar kameez, a three-piece outfit consist- China until relatively recently. next big place to watch, many foreign brands have al- ing of pants, a tunic, and a long scarf. And although “We do think the market in India is going to explode ready started looking into expansion options there so many women, particularly younger ones, have begun in about five years, but there are still plenty of chal- WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 5, 2005 7 WWD.COM

While Indian consumers, like here and below, are becoming increasinglyincreasingly awareaware ofof WesternWestern brands,brands, therethere stillstill aren’taren’t manymany shopping malls or streets where luxury firms can locate stores. PHOTO BY AP/PHOTO/MANISH SWARUP PHOTO BY India As ‘The Next China’

lenges here,” acknowledged Bhaskar of Louis Vuitton. product that costs 100 pounds [$190] in London would rience here that you would get anywhere in the world, “Infrastructure is probably the biggest challenge in translate be the equivalent of about 80,000 rupees here. then that’s what’s going to grab your customer in India.” India. There are no roads here that you could easily It’s the same price, but just the thought of spending in The trouble is simply finding the location to grab walk on in Louis Vuitton shoes, and that’s an issue. the thousands versus in the hundreds — people still felt them. Retailers estimate there are about 25 to 30 pock- Location has always been a challenge. There are no lux- like they were spending less if they shopped abroad.” ets of wealth scattered around the country, which can ury malls here yet, and even if there were, there are not Taxes on imported luxury goods in India have, in be tough to tap into with only one or two stores in New yet enough [high-end] brands to fill them. We are still fact, raised prices in the country by up to 30 percent Delhi and Mumbai. And both of those cities are so waiting for the day when there are at least 10 luxury more than stores abroad. Companies like Louis Vuitton spread out that it can take hours to get from one section brands here who can move into a absorb some of the taxes to keep of town to another. luxury lifestyle mall, like Pacific their prices closer to the world stan- “Brand awareness is not a problem in India,” said Place in Hong Kong. dard, a practice they also maintain Swapan Bharma, retail head of Bulgari, which has a “The chance of an Avenue in other countries with high import shop in the Oberoi hotel in New Delhi. “What is the Montaigne developing in India is tariffs, like China. But the differ- problem is just getting people to the store.” very low. We do not have the kind of ence in cost isn’t much of a sticking In fact, unlike China, where many brands have to roads and promenades here that point for shoppers who have the work on increasing their recognition, most Indian con- customers could easily walk down. money to spend, Bhaskar said. sumers are well aware of Western labels and the prod- A street of high-end retailers is def- “I think Indian customers are ucts they’re known for. A growing number of local maga- initely a distant dream.” much more comfortable shopping in zines has helped, and there are four dedicated almost One of the other big hurdles for our stores and are willing to pay a solely to fashion: Indian versions of international titles luxury brands establishing a pres- premium for the service they get,” L’ Officiel, Cosmopolitan and Elle, and locally owned ence in India is getting customers she said. “Our Indian customers magazine Verve. to stay at home to shop. Wealthy lead lives of royalty. They do not “When I started L’Officiel three years ago, everyone Indians have long traveled abroad like to queue up. They do not like told me India was not ready for a luxury fashion maga- — primarily to spots like London the idea of going to a busy store zine,” said Motwane. “But looking back, it was absolute- and Dubai — to buy their Western where they’d be one of 700 cus- ly the right time. Today, it has a circulation of 50,000. It wardrobes each season. Even with tomers at a time waiting to see a does very well with readers, and very well with adver- more stores opening in the country, bag. I have heard this time and tisers. Obviously, the readers were ready for an interna- going abroad maintains its appeal again from clients who say that they tional-quality magazine with a local focus.” because of the wide selection of prefer to come [to our local stores] She followed up with the launch of Seventeen in available brands, although luxury because a bag will be reserved for 2003, targeting India’s very youthful demographic (the retailers say they are finally con- them or because they can easily median age is about 24 years old) who are expected to vincing customers that they can come often and spend an hour in be a big consumer base for the country in the future.

shop just as well in India. AP PHOTO/AMAN SHARMA PHOTO BY the store. They are very conscien- The pages of such magazines mirror the changes in the “It took years for people to start tious of service, and they become country, combining local Indian styles with Western getting used to the idea of shopping for international very loyal if you offer them good service.” fashion — a mix that everyone expects to see more of as brands here,” said Anna Bredemeyer of Entrack Motwane added: “What customers are really starting companies continue to flow into India and set up shop. International, who manages the Mont Blanc, Canali and to look for here is the buying experience. For shopping “Right now, India is a country where you cannot walk Girard-Perregaux stores down the hall from Louis in India, this is a very new idea. But this luxury cus- out in the morning and buy a Gap T-shirt, or a Prada Vuitton in the Taj Mahal hotel in Mumbai. “Part of the tomer the brands are now after is a well-traveled suit, or a pair of Diesel jeans,” Motwane said. “Now, I problem was just the mind-set about the currency. woman. She knows what the buying experience is like think every brand is probably going to be here in the People were used to shopping abroad, and a higher-end in a place like New York. If you can replicate the expe- next two years. It will be exciting to see what happens. 8 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 5, 2005 WWW.WWD.COM

Seven was wholly owned by Los Angeles-based L’ K oral Industries until March, when Bear Stearns Seven Tackles Fakes Merchant Banking bought a 50 percent stake in the Denim Dish brand. L’Koral retains a 50 percent stake in Seven. Seven For All Mankind has the ultimate proof of its pop- Also in December, Seven filed suit against Loeh- ularity — a counterfeiting problem. mann’s Inc. in Manhattan federal court accusing the The five-year-old premium jeans company has company of employing a calculated strategy for deceiv- Tag launched moved quickly on the issue, which surfaced in August, ing consumers. in December. embarking on a nationwide campaign that has resulted “Rather than place the counterfeit merchandise on in 19 lawsuits being filed and the seizure of thousands labeled racks on its sales floor, as defendant does with of pieces of bogus merchandise. other merchandise it offers for sale, defendant main- “We are in the position of high growth and we see tains its inventory of counterfeit merchandise in sepa- that people are riding on our success,” said Andreas rate rooms, where it is not visible to the general pub- Kurz, who took over as chief executive officer of the Los lic,” the complaint said. “Customers who ask for Angeles-based company in March. “We want to be very Seven For All Mankind merchandise by name are pro- early, very strong and very swift to let everybody know vided with the counterfeit merchandise by defen- that there’s a very high risk associated with trying to dant’s employees.” counterfeit our product.” Robert Glass, Loehmann’s chief operating officer, The efforts resulted in the Florida State Attorney’s said the lawsuit “has been resolved in an amicable office and U.S. Immigration & Customs Enforcement manner.” leading 100 state and federal agents last month in raids Heimbold also indicated that both Filene’s and against 18 locations in South Florida. Loehmann’s had been cooperative from the outset. “It was critical that we hit all 18 locations simul- Developing a strong anticounterfeiting program is taneously so that they couldn’t contact one an- especially important given Seven’s plans to ex- other,” Paul Meyers, chief investigator for Juicy goods pand, now that it has Bear Stearns’ backing. the Florida State Attorney’s office, said in The firm helped recruit ceo Kurz, a for- were also a statement. mer president of international licensing In less than three hours, an estimat- confiscated. at Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. who also ed $500,000 in counterfeit Seven, served as ceo of Diesel USA. Diesel, Lacoste and Juicy Couture ap- “We want to protect not only what parel and accessories were seized we currently have, but also the future from retailers in Key West and Miami business we are trying to build,” said Beach, a private residence and from Kurz. “We want to turn this company two stores in Miami’s Dolphin Mall. into a lifestyle brand.” “We got a tip from a retailer in Key West that said there was a store or two selling counterfeit jeans,” said Michael Heimbold, a partner with Alschuler Grossman Stein & Kahan, which represents Seven and helped orchestrate the raid. Heimbold said that, before the raids, he and a Seven vice president, Rick Crane, traveled to Key West and bought counterfeit jeans in 16 stores. Shawn Brosnan, director of international supply chain security and trademark protection for Liz Claiborne Inc., which owns Juicy, said Claiborne re- ceived a similar tip from one of its Key West retailers.

Tag Wants to Be ‘It’ Brosnan also made a trip to Key West’s Duval Street, where seven of the stores were located. The new line Tag aims to be the “It” jeans for the “There were well over two dozen different labels in- older set. volved in the raid action,” said Brosnan. Tag started shipping to specialty boutiques and Seven has taken its fight to the courts, as well. Since department stores in December. December, its legal team has filed 19 lawsuits against “We’re targeting women between the ages of 20 retailers in California, Georgia, Massachusetts and New and 60,” said Iskander Lemseffer, designer of the Los York. Federal trademark infringement, counterfeiting, Angeles-based denim line. “Our niche market false designation of origin and unfair competition are includes all the mothers in America who want to look among the allegations the company has levied against sexy. I’ve seen a 55 year old in my jeans and she the retailers in each case. looked just amazing….It makes women look taller Defendants in the bulk of these lawsuits have been and skinnier.” one-shop urban retailers that are hard-pressed to invest The collection is built around one fit, available in the amount of time and money necessary to mount an A table of goods seized by Customs, mostly Seven Jeans. five styles: the twisted leg with its twisted seam; the effective legal defense. Many of the cases have resulted cowboy, with a double pocket in the front, as well as a in monetary settlements and injunctions barring any fu- flat embroidered back pocket; the Western, with a ture sales of counterfeit goods. Seven has been quicker to act against counterfeiters front double pocket; the straight leg in stretch, and a Some prominent retailers also were swept up in the than any company where he has worked, he said. “The capri with twisted seams that falls just below the knee. cases. Filene’s Basement and its parent company, Retail biggest mistake one can make is not to take things seri- The wholesale price range of the collection is $70 Ventures Inc., were named in a complaint filed on Dec. ously,” Kurz added. to $90. The Western and twisted leg styles are avail- 9 in Massachusetts federal court. Seven’s success has spurred calls from other luxury able with rhinestone detailing, for wholesale prices “Filene’s Basement reasonably believed that the jeans and denim brands interested in working with it. of $135 to $420. For fall, Tag will introduce a twisted were legitimate goods when bought, so this purchase was “It would make a lot of sense to join hands with other leg style in stretch velvet that will wholesale for $85. an unfortunate, rare incident,” Mark Shulman, president premium denim brands to deter counterfeiters on a Lemseffer predicts the wholesale volume of the of Filene’s Basement, said in a statement. “Filene’s larger basis,” Kurz said. “You want to attack on all collection will exceed $6 million this year. Basement immediately pulled the disputed merchandise fronts at the same time, and you can do that and spread — Lauren DeCarlo from its stores, and cooperated with L’Koral and the ven- out the costs.” dor Chic Lady in resolving their claims.” — Ross Tucker Levi’s Goes to La-La Land With Showroom Lee Jeans Goes Online Revving up its product-placement push, Levi Strauss ence in the last two years to compete more effectively Lee Jeans is preparing to test the online retailing & Co. opened a 1,200-square-foot showroom this with the flood of new high-end denim companies. waters. On Monday, the company will launch month on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles. Levi’s clothing has found its way into shows such Lee1889.com, a site devoted to direct selling of the The space is open to stylists and editors who wish as “Desperate Housewives.” Before the arrival of the company’s junior apparel line. The current to pull Levi’s clothing, from jeans to jackets, for TV showroom, Levi’s relied on providing product for Lee1889.com site has been overhauled to accommo- shows and magazine spreads. The San Francisco- celebrities from its store in Santa Monica, Calif. date its new purpose as an online store. based denim maker has boosted its Hollywood pres- —Nola Sarkisian-Miller — R.T. WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 5, 2005 9 WWD.COM The Beat Intermezzo Reels Them In at the Piers NEW YORK — Despite a concentration on acces- “People seem to have bought a lot at the last sories exhibitors, contemporary and denim compa- show and they’re already bought up. I don’t know nies had a strong showing at the Intermezzo how much merchandise you can continue to buy,” Collections on Piers 90, 92, and 94 from Sunday he said, noting concerns with the economy, specifi- through Tuesday and were using the three-day show cally rising oil prices. “And the weather doesn’t to highlight additions to their fall and holiday lines. help. With the cool weather, it still feels like fall.” ENK International, producer of the show, said 627 Tango’s business is up 15 percent from this time exhibitors were on hand at the Piers, down 70 from last last year, he said, thanks in part to burgeoning May’s show which counted 697 exhibitors. The exact sales of belts, jewelry and handbags. “Kooba is re- number of retailers in attendance hadn’t been calculat- ally great. It’s my best-selling line,” he said, refer- ed yet, but a show spokesman said the figure should be ring to the handbag collection. on par with last year’s figure which was roughly 7,500. The Los Angeles-based denim collection Rock & The 10-year-old contemporary line Helen Wang Republic was exhibiting additions to its Victoria launched eveningwear at Intermezzo. “We do every Beckham label, including a new crown logo for the ENK show in New York and this time around, we’ve back pocket. The denim company also launched a kids’ placed a decent amount of orders,” said Cara Borke, wear line and a collection of blazers in fabrics such sales account executive for the collection, which as wool and cashmere wholesaling between $80 and wholesales between $110 and $220. The eveningwear $150. Also on hand were styles resulting from Rock & collection featured pleated poly-charmeuse dresses Republic’s recent collaboration with Lycra spandex. and ballskirts. The collection is sold at Neiman “We really have so much to choose from. We’re Marcus and specialty boutiques across the U.S. looking to expand into a lifestyle brand,” said Andrea Surprisingly, Borke noticed that the buyers visit- Bernholtz, managing partner of Rock & Republic. ing her booth were primarily from the Northeast. “We are really selective about who we’ve sold to and “We haven’t seen one person from the West Coast,” have actually had to say ‘no’ to many buyers.” she said. Helen Wang’s sales from this year’s Bernholtz said Rock & Republic is not looking Intermezzo show were still up 20 percent from last to open new doors for the next three months, but May’s exhibition. The company is expecting its will increase its business in existing stores. A merino wool skirt Rock & Republic wholesale volume for 2005 to reach $4 million. “Our volume is up and customers seem to be writing and blouson by unveiled a line Michael Mastriano, owner of the Tango special- deeper,” she said. “The sales number we finished with Helen Wang was a of blazers at ty boutique in Brooklyn, said the timing of the last year is what we’re currently shipping each month.” Intermezzo. big hit with buyers. Intermezzo. show makes it a bit less appealing. — Lauren DeCarlo Artistry Shines at Atelier Designers Nouveau Collective Gets NEW YORK — The May installment of the Timna Myers, owner of Timna Distinctive Atelier Designers trade show is a smaller Artwear, a specialty boutique in Memphis, A Nouvelle Adresse event than the September and February seg- said she turns to the May show for fill-in or- ments, though 31 vendors showed their fall ders. “The designers at this show have an NEW YORK — Nouveau Collective has changed addresses, and vendors and holiday 2005 wares to buyers. artistic component as well as a fashion com- and buyers enjoyed the new scenery. While an official tally hadn’t been made, ponent. That works well for small owners be- The trade show was held Saturday through Tuesday at The New Susan Summa, coordinator of the Atelier cause it allows you to look different from the Yorker Hotel here instead of the Park Central Hotel, its home for the Designers show, said the number of buyers bigger department stores,” she said. last five years. Along with the switch in location came a change in setup: shopping the show had doubled from last year. Myers sought reorders from Susans, a bet- Exhibitors were previously tucked away in individual hotel rooms. This The event was held April 30-May 2 on the 10th ter women’s wear line based in Berkeley, year they were in two ballrooms on the hotel’s mezzanine and dispersed and 11th floors of the Rihga Royal Hotel here. Calif.; Treadle Design Room, a jacket and tops throughout the third-floor conference rooms. “For the May show, we use two floors, but line based in Los Angeles, and Kay Chapman, “We had 1,350 buyers shopping the show and 350 exhibitors,” said for the shows in February and September, we an eveningwear line with headquarters in Van Joanne Feinstein, president of Nouveau Collective. “Lots of our exhibitors use five,” Summa said. “A Nuys, Calif. The Japanese had record shows this time. We really are the mirror image of a better spe- lot of the new designers “It’s got a life collection, Ona, based cialty store.” Of the 350 exhibitors, 20 percent were new to the show. we’ve had in this time here, was a new addition Feinstein said the event would go into big- of its own,” Fitted jackets were key slot have been very active to Myers’ boutique. “It ger space for the next market in August at The Lorain Croft items for Canvasbacks. in getting new buyers to said of this was very wearable…and New Yorker Hotel. “I picture a runway show us. The designers are top. washable,” she said, not- and a party in this expanded space,” she said. finding new resources, ing that her customers, “I think the foot traffic has doubled — and the overall mood primarily 40 to 60 years tripled even — since we moved to this seems very upbeat.” old, would appreciate the hotel,” said Manya Suchy, director of sales Lorain Croft, owner collection’s simplicity. for Canvasbacks, a misses’ collection based and designer of her Laura “Lola” Herrera in Milwaukee. “I didn’t stop working once eponymous collection was one of the designers on the first two days of the show.” based here, was showing whose collection has roots Suchy said she would likely have a total at Atelier for the second in art. “We sold some mer- of $100,000 in sales over the four-day period. time. “I think the quality chandise to Julie Artisans’ “I’ve signed about 35 accounts this time of the buyers is what Gallery,” Herrera said of around and about a dozen new customers. brought me back,’’ she her collection, Lola of San Buyers aren’t dropping a lot of cash on holi- said. “They are calm and Francisco. “It was one of day, but they’re adding to their fall orders.” serious and can appreci- the first places to show- Canvasbacks, a bridge collection that in- ate fabrics. My numbers case art-to-wear in New corporates mostly European fabrics, whole- started going up when I York, so that’s a really big sales for $124 to $210, while Bets by Canvasbacks, a more casual, weekend started doing this show.” milestone for us.” line that uses domestic fabrics, wholesales for $69 to $139. Fitted jackets Croft’s collection in- The collection includes in chunky tweeds and cashmere are the highlight of each collection. cludes pieces such as flowy silk charmeuse frayed Susan Hannah, owner of Hannah boutiques on Cape Cod in sequin tops and silk fitted jackets. She incorpo- “strip skirts,” long, reversible silk robes and Massachusetts, in Windsor, Conn., and a two-month-old location in rates fabrics such as crushed and hand-painted silk metallic organza skirts, and wholesales at Manhattan’s SoHo district, favored the new venue. “I feel like when you silk, wool bouclé and French lace. While the $350 to $1,500. went into the small hotel rooms, it was too inhibiting,’’ she said. “You wholesale price range of the Lorain Croft collec- “I’d say I’ve done about $10,000 in sales lost some of the spirit and comraderie in that setup.” tion is $159 to $398, Croft noticed that buyers at with my robes alone,” Herrera said. “By the Hannah was particularly fond of Canvasback. “I love the novelty of it. Atelier were less price-resistant than buyers she end of the show, I’d say I’ll probably total Items are in and so is color and great fabrics, and that’s exactly what encountered at other trade shows. around $30,000.” Herrera took orders from Canvasback is.” Because of her new SoHo location, Hannah said she “As long as the piece has something to say, boutiques such as Moon Cake in Atlanta; The had more freedom to choose between a number of collections and was it really wasn’t a problem to sell something Phoenix in Richmond, Va., and Under One able to go with “pricier,” more “artsy” collections. “There’s a really nice that wholesales for $398,” Croft said. “I think Roof in Brooklyn. mix at this show,” she said. the buyers at this show are more concerned “These buyers really get what’s going on,” New Park was another collection pleased to see a change in layout. “It’s with quality and not quantity.” Herrera said. “They’re very complimentary, much better now,” said Stephanie Goureau of the Olivier Goureau Inc. show- Summa said, “We have three types of col- and I’ve had the opportunity get some really room, home to six collections, including New Park. “We didn’t get many new lections in this show, artisan, fashion and great accounts.” clients at previous shows, but this time around, we signed at least 20.” avant-garde. There’s quite a variety.” — L.D. — L.D. 10 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 5, 2005 WWD.COM Active LifestyleX Spring Roll in Activewear KangaRoos Jumps Into Apparel NEW YORK — Following up on its revival in footwear, By Melanie Kletter KangaRoos is hopping into apparel with its first line for young women set to launch at retail this fall. NEW YORK — Spring has reached full blossom in the “We are looking to make KangaRoos into a head-to-toe activewear field and stores are seeing brisk sales of brand,” said Charlie Liberge, vice president and general manag- fashion-oriented and performance merchandise. er of KangaRoos at Atsco Footwear Group, which owns the While the weather in the Northeast has been brand’s U.S. distribution rights for all categories. slightly cooler than usual, retailers are reporting KangaRoos is a division of Pentland Group, the London- a warm consumer reaction to bright colors and based conglomerate that also owns companies such as Speedo stylish activewear, as well as high-tech perform- and Ellesse, and makes footwear for brands including Lacoste. ance items. Spring is always a key season in the The initial KangaRoos apparel collection includes a wide se- athletic world, as casual and hard-core athletes lection of terry-cloth tracksuits, logo T-shirts, long-sleeve polo resume outdoor activities like running, biking, shorts, velour miniskirts, mesh tops and sweaters designed to golf, tennis and hiking. blend activewear and streetwear looks. Many of the items come This year, color is a big story in activewear as in bright colors such as lime green, orange, fuchsia and purple, consumers gravitate toward hues such as pink and some of the tracksuits have color blocking. Several of the and green. tops and bottoms also have little pockets, the trademark of the “Everyone wants color, especially pink and company’s footwear. flower prints,” said Dana Mason, apparel buyer at The apparel targets sporty young women ages 15 to 25 and Mason’s Tennis Mart, a 29-year-old tennis retailer carries wholesale prices of about $20 to $50. The line has been in Manhattan. “Women want clothes that are picked up by Marshall Field’s and Atsco is aiming for distribu- bright and fun. People see tennis players like tion in specialty chains such as Finish Line, as well as depart- Maria Sharapova wearing color on the court and ment and specialty stores. they like that.” The Avon, Mass.-based company has One activewear newcomer has already exceed- aggressive sales targets for this business. ed expectations. Adidas by Stella McCartney hit “Our goal is to build the brand to stores in March and quickly sold out of initial de- $100 million in sales over the next liveries at Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom stores five years,” Liberge said. in the U.S., and at Isetan in Tokyo, the company KangaRoos competes with youth- said last week. The line, which has high-tech fab- oriented brands such as Blue Marlin, rics paired with stylish designs, is being rolled out as well as vertical retailers, including for fall to stores in Europe and Asia. Abercrombie & Fitch and American At Athleta, one of the largest women’s athletic Nike tennis looks have been strong sellers at Mason’s Eagle Outfitters, Liberge said. It also catalogue firms, sales this spring have so far ex- Tennis Mart in Manhattan. will be coming up against other retro ceeded plan, said Tami Anderson, marketing direc- brands such as Le Tigre and Penguin tor. The catalogue carries apparel and other prod- oriented offerings. that have been crowding the market. ucts for a range of activities such as yoga, surfing, “We finished up the first quarter 10 percent over KangaRoos was a popular footwear hiking, running, walking and weight training. last year’s and above plan,” said buyer Marian brand in the Eighties with its bright col- “We didn’t offer any new categories this season, Baker, who has been increasing the number of fash- ors and small velcro pockets on the side. but we went deeper with our surf and swim assort- ion and contemporary brands sold at the stores. Atsco relaunched the brand in footwear PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY ment driven by the introduction of our own Athleta “What has been our strong suit are smaller, niche in 2003 and had fast growth in that cate- A velour tracksuit from the swim line earlier this year,” Anderson said. “We’ve brands, which is indicative of our customer’s de- gory as younger consumers sought out new KangaRoos line. expanded our selection of our Athleta brand mand for a more unique, specialty store product.” retro labels. Its shoes are sold in about pieces, which now includes an assortment of tops, Among the brands she cited as standouts this 2,200 stores, including Nordstrom and Urban Outfitters. bottoms, tankini tops, one-pieces and skirts.” season are Gigi and Fitness Fit, two lines from KangaRoos has never done apparel before. Atsco also plans The Petaluma, Calif.-based company has been South America, as well as Susana Monaco and to introduce KangaRoos into other categories, including building up its private label offerings sold under City Tech. The company’s revamped private label footwear and handbags, for spring 2006, Liberge noted. the Athleta name and those products now account line has also been selling well, particularly the “We are looking to create a total lifestyle brand,” Liberge for about 60 percent of its selection. Among other men’s merchandise, she noted. said. “The brand is quirky enough that we feel we can add a lot brands it sells in its catalogues are Prana, Hind Equinox continues on its growth spurt and of categories.” and Adidas. Anderson also said the company is plans to open six stores by the end of this year in Atsco, which has been in business for 94 years, makes brand- exploring the idea of opening stores. markets around the country, Baker noted. ed footwear under license, has its own brands and also makes “Our strategy at this point does not include The tennis season has been off to a brisk start products under private label for retailers. Until now, the compa- wholesaling,” she said. “We’d be more likely to at Mason’s Tennis Mart. While the professional ny’s experience has been primarily in footwear. Last week, open up our own retail stores and grow the brand outdoor tennis season is just getting into full Pentland USA acquired a minority stake in Atsco and will help it in that direction.” swing, sales of racquets and apparel to general facilitate its growth in apparel. The company mailed out more than one mil- consumers have already begun well. Among the “Apparel is a new arena for us,” Liberge said. “But we plan to lion catalogues this season, she noted. top-selling women’s brands at her store this season do more in that area as we seek to create head-to-toe concepts.” At Equinox Fitness, the upscale health club are Nike, specifically the Nike Serena Williams — M.K. with 24 boutiques, merchandise sales have been collection, as well as Tail and Polo Ralph Lauren. up as the company has shifted to more fashion- “We are also selling a lot of tie-dyed headbands, and socks with Swarovski crystals,” Mason said. At New York Golf Center, one of the city’s City Tech has largest golf retailers, color and performance mer- been a standout chandise are standing out, said Pam Granier, ap- Nike Ends Sears Footwear Deal at Equinox parel manager. Nike golf, Polo Ralph Lauren, NEW YORK — Nike’s decision to stop selling its footwear and Fitness shops Claudia Romano and J. Lindeberg are key sellers. socks in Sears Holding Corp. was attributed to “the regular this season. “Nike’s golf line has technical properties and course of brand management” according to a company spokes- people are looking for that now,” Granier said. “In woman Wednesday. general, we are selling more fashion, and very The spokeswoman declined to comment on whether its plan trendy and young looks.” to halt its footwear distribution to Sears in late October was due Outdoor apparel has been slightly more chal- to concerns that the new Sears Holdings Corp. might sell the lenging for some brands, however. Columbia brand in its Kmart discount division as well. The company Sportswear, which makes outdoor apparel and spokeswoman said these kinds of distribution changes are not also operates company-owned stores, saw its uncommon when contracts are up. shares tumble about 16 percent on Friday. The Nike is highly protective of its image and distribution. To fa- stock fell after the company said its second-quar- cilitate its move into the discount channel, the company bought ter and full-year earnings would drop due to a de- Official Starter Properties last year as a way to expand into the cline in orders for fall deliveries and a shift to- mass arena under other nameplates. Nike operates that busi- ward lower-margin product categories. ness as a subsidiary under Exeter Brands LLC, and has said it On the positive side, Columbia also experi- has no plans to sell the Nike brand in the discount channel. enced robust demand for certain sportswear Under that division, the company relaunched Starter footwear items, including spring shorts, woven and knit at Wal-Mart stores in March with more high-tech products. tops, pants and sweaters. While it will no longer carry Nike, Sears sells a large number Timothy P. Boyle, Columbia’s president and of athletic and other footwear brands, including New Balance, chief executive officer, said in a call with analysts Adidas and Skechers. It also sells activewear from Russell and that, “General retail conditions this spring have Danskin among others. A company spokeswoman at Russell been fair, and sell-through of sandals and shorts Athletic said the activewear giant has no plans to review or has generally been soft in markets where weather change its distribution at Sears, and declined to comment further. has been cool this spring.” The July WWDFast Forecast: HOT, HOT, HOT. VIDE MAESTRI PHOTOS BY HEATHER CATANIA, JEREMY GOLDBERG AND DA CATANIA, HEATHER PHOTOS BY WWDFAST Coated Stock Magazine: July 21 Close: June 16

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For more information, contact Gus Floris, associate publisher, (New York) at 212- 630-4636; Deborah Levy, senior account manager; West Coast, at 323-951-1803; Elizabeth Haynes, European advertising director, (Paris) at +33-1-44-51-13-03, Elena DeGiuli, account executive, (Milan) at +39-02-7600-3926. WWDMediaWorldwide® 12 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 5, 2005 WWD.COM Arden Teams With Allergan, Sets 2nd Spears Scent By Julie Naughton Elizabeth Arden name, and the two will maximum efficacy.” Both men and women swung to a profit in its third quarter. have separate retail counters. “Allergan will be targeted as users, she added. For the period ended March 31, the NEW YORK — Elizabeth Arden, Inc. has a long history in the dermatology chan- Additionally, in September, Elizabeth company posted a profit of $5.6 million, said Wednesday that it has entered into a nel of skin care and a leading market Arden will follow up its best-selling or 19 cents a diluted share, which com- co-marketing agreement with specialty share,” said Beattie. “We believe it makes Curious Britney Spears fragrance with a pares with a loss of $10.5 million, or 46 pharmaceutical firm Allergan, that it sense to combine the tremendous attrib- new women’s scent. While Beattie cents a share, in the prior year. Net sales will do a second Britney Spears scent, utes of both of our companies to deliver a refused to give further details except to swelled 9 percent in the quarter to and released third-quarter earnings. blockbuster product to the market.” say that a commercial featuring the preg- $198.3 million from $182.2 million in the Allergan, which also manufactures While Beattie emphasized that such nant pop princess is already in the can, he year prior. Botox, introduced Prevage — a skin care details as final prices did say that he expects it Arden’s gross margin rate also product with 1 percent idebenone, a ben- and door counts are still to do “as well or better” improved, climbing to 48.3 percent in the zoquinone compound that is said to be a being worked out, he did BEAUTY BEAT than the first scent. most recent quarter from 45.8 percent in powerful topical antioxidant — in January say the Prevage products According to Timra the prior-year period. to physicians. Under the agreement, in prestige distribution will be “premium- Carlson, president of NPD The rollout of Curious to interna- Arden will market a version containing 0.5 priced.” While he wouldn’t quantify that, Beauty, a division of the tional and travel retail markets guid- percent, or half the original potency, in sources said price tags on the products NPD Group, Curious, ed the sales growth in the third quar- prestige department and specialty stores likely would be north of $150. Prevage’s launched last ter, the company said. beginning in early 2006, said E. Scott largest group of users likely will fall in the September, did $36 mil- Beattie said he was Beattie, chairman and chief executive offi- 35- to 60-year-old age range. lion in its first four pleased with results and cer of Elizabeth Arden Inc. A repackaged Beattie hopes to take the products months on counter and told investors that Curious version of the original-strength product, to into “upscale distribution” globally, ranked in the top 10 in “was the number one launch be dubbed Prevage MD, will bow in physi- including both specialty stores in the women’s fragrances in U.S. department stores during cians’ offices this fall. U.S. and in European pharmacies. overall last year. “I have the 2004 holiday season and Arden’s research and development Elizabeth Park, senior vice president been very impressed Curious Britney Spears remains a top 10 fragrance.” staff and Allergan’s scientists will work of global marketing, skin care and color with the deals and the For the nine-month peri- together on the new formulation. Beattie cosmetics for Elizabeth Arden, noted that products which have come out od, net income came in at said marketing, promotion and manufac- there is still “tremendous opportunity” in of the Arden organization, and I $42.1 million, or $1.41 a share, turing all will be done jointly. The two the derm segment of the business, which have no doubt that this will be another which compares with a loss of $8.9 also will jointly develop additional sources said generated $50 million overall winner,” said Carlson. million, or 41 cents a share, in the prior Prevage products, though Beattie in the U.S. in 2004. The skin care market Meanwhile, Arden’s expansion of period. Sales for the first three quarters declined to give further details. in the U.S. is estimated at upward of $1.6 Curious overseas and into the travel rose 8 percent to $733.4 million from All of the products developed under this billion in retail sales yearly. “Consumers retail segment along with its ongoing $677.4 million. deal will be marketed under the Prevage are getting far more sophisticated in strength in the U.S. propelled top-line — With contributions from brand name at retail, rather than the terms of skin care,” she said. “They want growth for the beauty company, which Amy S. Choi Celebs Sound Off at Candie’s Event NEW YORK — A fund-raiser to help prevent teenage pregnan- Jane Fonda, who promptly gave him her office number. Once that cy is bound to be a little controversial, and guests at Candie’s Fonda was taken care of, she asked, “Are you single?” “Event to Prevent” Tuesday night did not disappoint. “Yes,” McMullan replied. After all, Jane Fonda, Rosie O’Donnell, Katie Couric, “Good.” said Fonda, slapping him on the shoulder with Jewel and Ashlee Simpson aren’t exactly shrinking vio- approval, before walking away. lets. Jewel and Simpson headlined the evening with live Mark Badgley and James Mischka landed singles of anoth- performances at Gotham Hall here, raising $400,000 for er kind. When two women went head-to-head for a private fit- the Candie’s Foundation. There was no question of lip- ting with the designers, New York State Parks Commissioner synching with Jewel, who belted out “Someone Over the Bernadette Castro, the auctioneer, badgered them to in- Rainbow” without any musical backup. She was equally crease their bids to $15,000, and each would score a Badgley unwavering about her support for Candie’s. Mischka evening gown. One bidder took some persuading, so “There are a lot of companies that do a lot for charita- the designers offered to throw in a handbag. Still uncon- ble things for very transparent reasons. After talking vinced, one guest suggested they throw in a pair of shoes. with the people at Candie’s, you can tell they really be- Mischka smiled nervously but did not cave. “We don’t have lieve in the cause,” she said, then deadpanned, “There shoes,” he explained later. (There was Badgley Mischka will be condoms handed out when you leave.” footwear through last fall and the company, which is now Onstage, Simpson talked about women making the owned by Candie’s, plans to develop another collection.) right choices, and offstage the 20-year-old said she is in After much hemming and hawing, both bidders agreed to the early stages of setting up her own clothing collection pledge $15,000, making them the evening’s high rollers. The and expects to have one within the year. designers even trumped a movie night at Hugh Hefner’s “It’s absolutely something that I have really wanted to Playboy mansion with Jenny McCarthy. do since I was a little girl,” she gushed. Emcee Tony Danza, joked, “Yeah, that night we’ll give In a white La Perla tunic and James jeans, Simpson you a video of Jenny McCarthy.” Much to his chagrin, said, “I am so proud I bought my whole outfit by myself yes- McCarthy had to bow out as mistress of ceremonies and terday. When I came back, everyone said, ‘You did good.’” sent along two videos in her absence. All too familiar with the media’s dissection of celebri- Jewel and Others were live and kicking. Before presenting an ties, she said her sister Jessica offered some advice. “She Ashlee award to Couric for her NBC report on teenage sex, Donny told me, ‘Don’t listen to it, be yourself, believe in yourself Simpson Deutsch, chief executive officer of Deutsch Inc. and host of and no matter what you do everyone will have an opinion.’ ” Rosie CNBC’s “The Big Idea With Donny Deutsch,” made men- Fonda, who was spat upon by a Vietnam veteran during O’Donnell tion of her using plants on the “Today” set to hide her legs. a book signing for her autobiography last month, has dealt “That’s not true,” Couric blurted from her table. with a lifetime of opinions — her own and those of others. Before the festivities, TV host Joan Lunden went to bat for And O’Donnell, before giving Fonda an award for founding Couric, who was criticized in a recent New York Times arti- the Georgia Campaign for Adolescent Pregnancy cle about the management shakeup at “Today’’ and the pro- Prevention, praised her for her anti-Vietnam War stance. gram’s declining lead over ABC’s “Good Morning, America.’’ As to whether women can be opinionated without “They crossed the line,’’ she said. “It seems to be the being controversial, Fonda said before the event, “It de- pattern with the media in this country. They’re there to pends what her opinions are about. If they are about veg- build you up. But when you get there, they look for an op- etables, then no, she won’t be very controversial. But portunity to take a shot at you, particularly when someone hopefully women will have opinions about important is in a position with so much responsibility and so ad- things and will express those opinions.” mired. I think it was just a really cheap shot.” Asked if it is up to brands to help America’s children, the In terms of “The Event to Prevent,” Lunden, who has Valentino-clad Fonda said, “It’s great when they do. Funds for seven children including two sets of twins from surrogate these programs are being cut back because of the war in Iraq. mothers, said she wanted to support the cause. “Thank good- The more companies that step in, the better.” ness there are good messages like these and good programs. During the fund-raising auction, photographer Patrick Mark Badgley Young kids these days are exposed to so much.”

McMullan made the winning $5,500 bid for lunch with and James Mischka JOHN CALABRESE PHOTOS BY — Rosemary Feitelberg WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 5, 2005 13 WWD.COM The philosophy: The more creative a nation is, the more potential that nation has for economic growth. The Richard Florida Creativity Group has compiled an index TheWWDList ranking countries based on three measures: talent, technology and tolerance. In addition to innovators such as scientists, professors and artists, the fashion and design industries make up a huge portion of economic growth. The index argues that economic value comes not just from raw materials, but also from the design or aesthetic content behind those materials. “The fashion industry is perhaps the best example of value creation and consumption,” said Richard Florida, founder of the Talented Nations group. Below, a breakdown of the top 10 countries and what they are doing The 10 most creative countries, ranked by the Global Creativity Index. creatively that could be helping to motivate their economies. — Cecily Hall SWEDEN Creativity index: 80.8 Think Ikea. Think H&M. Think Volvo and Saab. Creative companies such as Ikea, a home furnishings retail chain, roll out products that are appealing — in design, function and price. The Helsingborg, Sweden, retailer currently has more than 200 stores in 30-plus countries. Stockholm’s retail giant, 1 H&M, unveiled its fall clothing collection in New York’s Central Park in April: It consisted of heavy knits, tweeds and balloon skirts, WWD said.

JAPAN Creativity index: 76.6 Japan, the land of innovation and technology, also breeds plenty of well-known fashion designers, known for cutting-edge innovations. Names such as 2 Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garçons and Junya Watanabe all hail from Japan and push the envelope every season.

FINLAND Creativity index: 68.4 Finnish residents are known for taking pride in the architectural design of their buildings and structures. This year has been declared “Design Year Finland,” in order to promote the importance and potential that the industry has to boost trade and business. The celebration lasts throughout 2005 3 and includes hundreds of events in Finland and worldwide, with exhibitions, a competition and a design forum.

UNITED STATES Creativity index: 66.6 Richard Florida’s book, “The Flight of the Creative Class,” argues the point that the U.S. is losing much of its creative talent to other countries. Still, the nation is recognized as part of the top 10. “New York alone cranks out a larger gross economic output than all of Russia,” Florida said. “It is one of 4 the biggest drivers of the U.S.’s powerhouse economy — fashionable services, products and ideas have so much to do with that.”

SWITZERLAND Creativity index: 63.7 Beautiful people, beautiful land, beautiful products. Companies in Switzerland have created fantastic and timeless lines of watches, including Rolex 5 and Tag Heuer. Rolex, based in Geneva, was founded in 1905 and has been credited with making the wristwatch a popular accessory. To this day, many of its products are still made by hand.

DENMARK Creativity index: 61.3 Danish design can be compared with the Danish lifestyle: laid-back and liberating. Architecture is hugely popular in this country, population 5,413,392. Danes have created famous structures such as the Sydney Opera House in Australia (Jørn Utzon), arguably one of the most recognizable buildings in 6 the world. Other notables include: La Grande Arche in Paris (Johan Otto von Spreckelsen) and St. Catherine’s College, in Oxford, U.K. (Arne Jacobsen).

ICELAND Creativity index: 61.2 In Iceland, creativity is ingrained in residents at an early age, and thus, it has no problem retaining talent. A subject of the national curriculum is “Innovation Education,” a teaching method that is used to encourage children to discover their own solutions, invent new objects and redesign objects 7 that already exist. An added bonus: Life expectancy is high here, thanks to a low infant mortality rate, a fish-based diet and excellent health care.

NETHERLANDS Creativity index: 61.1 From a creative education comes a creative way of thinking: The Netherlands is populated with numerous design schools, including the Rotterdam 8 Academy of Architecture, AMFI Amsterdam Fashion Institute and Gerrit Rietveld Academie (which houses graphic design, theater andstage design programs, among others).

NORWAY Creativity index: 59.5 Norway, the fifth Scandinavian nation on the list, has an agency dedicated to the creative development of the country: Innovation Norway was formed in January 2004 by combining the Norwegian Government Consultative Office for Inventors, the Norwegian Industrial and Regional Development 9 Fund, the Norwegian Trade Council and the Norwegian Tourist Board. It helps develop small and medium-sized entrepreneurial and innovative firms.

GERMANY Creativity index: 57.7 From Volkswagens and Benzes to Karl Lagerfeld and Jil Sander, Germany is well represented in both the fashion and design industries. Germany 10 prides itself on quality and functionalism — seen in much of its industrial design — and the fashion scene is much more discreet than other countries, focusing more on classic and clear styles.

The index, presented on a scale of 1 to 100 (100 being the most creative), doesn’t just look at raw productivity data to decipher a country’s economic state. It also as- Creativity: The Next Economic Indicator? sesses the motivators and people behind companies and ideas, arguing that eco- NEW YORK — It was at a meeting in New Zealand with Peter Jackson, director of nomic value comes directly from those motivators. the “Lord of the Rings” trilogy and the upcoming remake of “King Kong,” that But Frank Lichtenberg, professor of finance and economics at Columbia sparked best-selling author and economist Richard Florida’s idea of creative talent University, would rather see the study combined with hard labor statistics. “This in the global sense and led him to analyze countries by their creative value. index is really capturing something,” agreed Lichtenberg. “But in order to be most Whether creativity can have an impact on a country’s economic outlook is becom- effective and persuasive, why not correlate it with rates of economic growth, or ing a matter of fast debate. Florida, author of “The Flight of the Creative Class” and other measurable variables that will support these countries’ rankings?” his organization, the Richard Florida Creativity Group, have devised the Global Florida acknowledged his creativity group has been talking with international Creativity Index, which ranks countries’ creativity levels by three specific measures. governments as well as other types of organizations to correlate the index with They are: talent (percent of the workforce employed in the creative sectors and per- larger economic analyses. But, he stressed: “Our third measure is the factor that cent of citizens with bachelor’s degrees), technology (innovation — patents per capi- other indices don’t have at this time. Countries need to measure tolerance — open- ta and percent of national GDP spent on research and development) and tolerance ness toward alternative lifestyles and minorities — this will ultimately draw more (openness to self-expression, alternative lifestyles and social diversity). foreign talent.” FLAGS COURTESY OF THEODORA.COM/FLAGS; USED WITH PERMISSIONFLAGS COURTESY SOURCE: RICHARD FLORIDA CREATIVITY GROUP’S GLOBAL CREATIVITY INDEX 14 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 5, 2005

Exciting DESIGN Opportunity Available! Earth Tones Trading Company MERCHANDISING ART We are looking for a Creative Partner; A licensed branded apparel manufacturer, including John Aforce in contemporary design who can PRODUCTION MGR VP/SENIOR think outside the box. All elements are Deere, is seeking a highly motivated, energetic, well organ- Major public sportswear co. in place...All we need is you! Please doing branded and private DIRECTOR call or Fax to Adam or Rebecca at: ized individual to join our team of dedicated professionals. Tel: 212-921-5511 / Fax: 212-921-5515 Our team is strong in building customer relationships & label seeks an experienced 50M Imprinted Apparel Co. individual with 5+ yrs exp. in New Jersey seeks Senior willing to "roll up the sleeves" & do what is necessary to get to be liaison between design, Art Director to manage 6 the job done right. tech, fabric, and production Art directors and 30 artists. depts. 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Tel: 646-345-4080 Large NYC Intimate Ap- conditions & competition in relation to their products and/or knit product w/the knowledge [email protected] parel Company seeks of garment construction. 244 & 246 Mulberry Street services. REQ: 10+ yrs of general merchandising & sales exp 2,000 sf.- 4,000 sf. available Retail Space strong acct. executive/ Background in retail buying merchandiser w/ strong in apparel industry, w/ B.A. degree, proven leader in build- & planning helpful. Position Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 LICENSING DIRECTOR www.dumann.com contacts w/ mass retail- ing effective teams & working with cross-functional teams, in BOSTON hdqtrs. ers. Will be responsible projects & budgets. Excellent Salary & Benefits. Major branded denim com- 37th St. 25 windows 7000 ft. $14.00 for spearheading growth 5500 ft. Terrace- Views- $20.00 Fax Resume HR: pany with sales in excess of Showrooms Bwy & 7th- sublet- move in and product develop- SALES MANAGER 617-332-3260 100M seeks Licensing direc- Prime Manhattan Re Jon 212-268-8043 ment. All resumes held tor with minimum 5 yrs ex- in strict confidence. Manage sales reps for all product lines. Exp in individual & For Space in Garment Center perience acquiring and Fax resumes to: territorial sales performance, launch of new products, & working with licensors to Helmsley-Spear, Inc. 201-868-6525. 212-880-0414 working closely with operations & sourcing to accomplish Dynamic Store Manager grow the brand. Must be overall company sales goals. Will develop & execute sales LF is one of the newest boutique retail- motivated, excellent commu- ers in contemporary women’s fashion. nicator. Great opportunity. Showrooms & Lofts strategy, monitor industry trends, market conditions & We are seeking experience, dynamic "A" BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS players with an entrepreneurial mind salary commensurate with Great ’New’ Office Space Avail competition in relation to their products and/or services. set to run our 5th Ave. NYC business experience. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 REQ: 10+ years of sales exp directly related to apparel (also accepting resumes for Los Angeles Fax resume to HR @ area). Understanding of LF product, industry, w/ B.A. degree, working knowledge of sales mgt, networking, event planning, team- 212-719-1521 sales planning & goal setting, demonstrated ability to negoti- building, clienteleing, and merchan- dising are a must. Competitive salary ate, close, effectively prioritize & handle multiple priorities, plus full health benefits. proven ability to manage people, projects & budgets. Candidates should submit a cover letter explaining why they make a Merchandise Analyst 202 West 40th Street For consideration, E-mail resume to good candidate for LF as well as a Luxury Retail Company seeks candi- Fully Renovated High-end Design detailed resume with salary history date to allocate merchandise. Duties Showrooms or Offices 500-2,850 Sq Ft. [email protected], or fax to 614-575-1163 to E-mail: [email protected] will also include coordinating inter-store ADMIN/SALES transfer of goods & running analysis Starting at $26 per sq ft. Relocation and full benefit package available. or Fax: (213) 746-3568 Units have light on all sides. ASST/FRONT DESK We invite you to visit our store reports. Must have a merchandising background & be proficient in excel. Allen (212) 868-1515 or (917) 299-1064 Accessory Co. seeks reliable, persona- Positions based in Columbus, Ohio. location prior to applying. ble, multi-tasked individual to work in 150 5th Avenue, New York Excellent opportunity for growth. quick paced atmosphere. Good com- Please fax resume to: 212 -202-6297 puter skills in Word, Excel and E-mail. Designers-Boys $40-$75K Resp. for phones, corresp. & gen. ASSOCIATE Assistant/Assoc./Designer office duties. Fax resume: 212-302-2753 Computer Skills EDI Coordinator/ MIS director to $100K. Current exp in DESIGNER Janet*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 warehouse/distribution. Warehouse mgmt Danskin, Inc., well est’d active apparel [email protected] Customer Service software, RF, Oracle, HP-UX, Windows. ADMIN SINCE 1967 company seeking a dynamic Associate Children’s import apparel company seeks Central NJ co. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. Honduras Factory W-I-N-S-T-O-N Designer to create variety of apparel individual with thorough understanding Honduras Apparel Factory, extremely products for licensed mass market of EDI implementation & procedures versatile equipment & personnel, ex- APPAREL STAFFING brand. 2-3 years related experience & (GE Software). The individual will also perienced management in place, turn DESIGN * SALES * MERCH apparel design degree, Adobe illustrator Designer (Senior) be responsible for order entry, billing & Production Assistant key operation, WRAP Certified, will be ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION &Photo Shop skills required. Must have customer service. Must be detail oriented Estab dress manufacturer looking for KNITWEAR & possess strong computer & commu- detail oriented motivated indiv. To able to benefit from CAFTA. Currently (212) 557-5000 F:(212) 986-8437 strong sketching ability, knowl. of Established, sophisticated contemporary sewing knits & woven garments. For garment construction & specs, excellent nication skills. Please send resume work in Production department. Must knitwear co. seeks an innovative, trend with salary requirements, have exp in Import. Knowledge of more info, please E-mail or fax: organizational & communication skills. conscious, & quality oriented individual. e: [email protected] / f: 516-505-1370 Competitive comp & benefits package. Attn. Arlene (212) 714-0460 Chinese language and Excel is a plus. Allocator/Shipping Original design & technical knowledge Fax resumes to H.R. : 212-944-2123 Please, send resumes with salary required. Some travel to Europe & Asia. Coordinator history to: E-mail: [email protected] NYC knitwear co. seeks exp’d person [email protected] or Fax to 212-930-9103 EOE/M/F/V Fabric Coordinator responsible for allocation & order Fast paced womenswear manufacturer Production Coord. maintenance, follow up on price tickets seeks fabric manager to handle fabric & assist credit department. Also, assist development. Must have min 2 yrs exp Private Label sales in shipping follow up / customer CAD ARTIST $65K DESIGNER in imports, have contacts with fabric Well-known, high-end private label service. Knowledge in QRS & EDI. 70% Working on CAD mills in Europe and Asia, and be com- sweater mfr and importer has position Fax Resume: 212-398-2225 30% Work as Assist Designer puter literate. avail for organized, detail-oriented per- [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 SPORTSWEAR Fax resume to Debbie 212-302-3318 son w/ 4-6 yrs exp dealing w/ retailers, Major public apparel co. seeks candidate wholesalers and catalog companies. to create moderate contemporary Must be computer savvy. Great oppty CAD ARTIST separates with 5+ years exp. Must have for personal and professional growth PATTERN/SAMPLES Estab childrenswear co. seeks CAD astrong background in woven & knits Graphic Designer exp. Benefits, good working atmos- artist w/min 3 years related exp. bottoms, skirts, & jackets. The ability to Women’s apparel manufacturer seeks phere. Please email resume to: Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Strong Illustrator and Photoshop skills [email protected] work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 identify emerging trends & silhouettes. person to design company monthly reqd. Creative, w/production back- Must possess great color, print, & look books and line sheets. Must be ground preferred. Email resume to: pattern sense w/the understanding of proficient in Illustrator and Photoshop. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, dwilson@tawil .com fabrics. Must be organized, detail- Photography skills a big plus. Production/Design Asst. oriented, able to meet deadlines, & be Fax resume to Nanette 212-302-3318 PRODUCTIONS ARTISIT NEEDED ateam player. Must have computer Major sourcing / production / import All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Graphic Artist needed for Babywear COLOR SPECIALIST skills. Position in BOSTON Hdqtrs sweater co. has entry level position Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Co. to work w/ designers to create Need established color pro for missy with excellent salary & benefits. available. Fax resume to 212-391-5800. artwork for prints, appliques & moderate sportswear company to do Fax resumes to HR: 617-332-3260 embroideries, presentation boards, color approvals for woven, knits and KORAMSA PATTERNS, SAMPLES, and prod. pkg. Photoshop + Illustrator trims in private label and branded di- Major Denim Manufacturer is looking PRODUCTIONS skills a must. Fast paced enviornment. visions. Must be extrememly organ- for the following positions based in Production Manager Must be able to meet deadlines. Los Angeles and Guatemala. Full servcie shop to the trade. ized and have a minimum of 3-5 years Designer Major Ladies Sportswear Co., seeks an Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Fax resume to 212-695-0203. Email: experience. Fax cover letter and re- individual w/5 years min. exp. to work [email protected] sume which must include salary re- Sr. Designer HEAD PATTERNMAKERS w/Designer & Sales; include preparing quirements to 212-704-0576 (Guatemala) cutting tickets / cost calculation / fabric PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Sweater & Tee Shirt Individual must be organized, experi- &trimpurchase. Must be detail oriented Assistant to GMM Contemporary Sweater Co seeks enced in people management, negotia- w/excellent follow-up in all phases of Customer Service Rep talented designer w/ combination of tions with overseas clients, monitor production w/China factory. Bilingual PRODUCTIONS High End Retail Company seeks can- time and action plan. Knowledge of Full servcie shop to the trade. didate with merchandising background Akademiks, arapidly growing Men’s highly creative mind & technical Mandarin / English a must. Please Fax and Women’s Apparel Co., seeks a self knowledge of knit construction. construction of prototypes required resume to: 212-967-8018 Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. to assist the GMM in all daily functions. and production knowledge preferred. Must be extremely organized, detail motivated applicant with 2 years exp. in Responsible for the collection’s trend, customer service to fill a key role in the color, yarn direction & oversee all Pattern knowledge of shrinkage appli- oriented & able to multi-task. Excellent cation and adjustments for denim. opportunity to work in a team oriented department. Knowledge of Blue Cherry aspects of design development. Must PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD a plus. Please fax resume Attn: Jackie have 10 yrs design exp. Requires exten- Minimum of 5 yrs. experience in man- Production Mgr. enviornment. Please fax resume to: agement and 7 yeas experience in High qlty, reasonable price. Any 212.202.6297 212-563-0581 sive exp working w/ China. Must be Ladies bridge suit house needs exp. design & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 proficient in computer graphic systems. patternmaking. Knowledge of the technical production mgr./coordinator Gerber system preferred and computer Design Anexciting oppty to work in a growing for overseas & domestic. comp. know is a stable co. Pls fax resume: 212-221-8556 skills (Word, Excel, Outlook, etc.). must. Fax resume to: (212) 869-5393 ASSISTANT DESIGNER Relocation to Guatemala required. Leading Better Separates Co. looking for PATTERNMAKERS organized, motivated, and creative fire- (Los Angeles and Guatemala) Retail Analyst cracker willing to do whatever it takes. DESIGNER Multiple positions available. Minimum Leading children’s wear importer Must have drawing skills, spec, sketch, of 5 years of denim experience. Create seeks a retail analyst to track Sales by technical packages, EMB layouts. Please Sweaters/Knits first through production patterns, Customer, including style selling and Fax resume to Natasha @ 212-302-3872 Ultra contemporary, young designer co. working with designers/full package sell-thrus, and to monitor Sales Plans, seeks a Designer/Trend Consultant to client’s on fitting garments to achieve including IMU’s and Gross margins. lead the way! We offer a dynamic, cool look and fit, correcting patterns for fit Must have strong organizational and DESIGNER and fun work environment. approval and production. Strong abili- computer skills. E-mail resume to: MIAMI, FL Please fax resume to: 212-575-1781 ty to drape and creating from sketch a [email protected] Leading Golf & Tennis Co. seeks very must. Knowledge of production sewing organized, creative person with 3-5 years construction and grading preferred. exp., preferably in Active Sportswear. Experienced with Gerber PDS Silhou- SALES ASSISTANT Computer graphics preferred. Freelance ette preferred. possible; F/T opportunity. Fax/Email to: DESIGN - Freelance HOT KISS 305-633-7439 / [email protected] Exp’d. Pro needed for 3 month project. Applicants for the positions based in Fast paced Jr. sptswr. co. seeks highly Missy/Contemporary; Knits & Wovens Guatemala must be bilingual in Spanish. motivated Sales Assistant with strong DESIGNER--OUTERWEAR Import. Creative, technical & follow-up computer and organizational skills. N/I/T Boy/Girl Mac Illustrator skills a must. Fax or E-mail resumes to: Please send resumes to: Ability to multi-task. Room for Great Company and Salary. 212-944-1482 E-MAIL: [email protected] advancement. Please e-mail: Call Barbara Murphy: (212) 643-8090 (agcy) [email protected] or FAX: (310) 828.0273 [email protected] WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 5, 2005 15 WWD.COM Fashion Scoops House Group Assails CAFTA Labor Provisions By Kristi Ellis old of labor laws, a history of not quota restraints, and accepted for KNITTED MOVES: Designer Fabio Piras apparently is headed to Malo, the being able to enforce those laws, review industry safeguard peti- knitwear company owned by IT Holding that is looking to round out its tried- WASHINGTON — The House and they need money and capaci- tions. These are moves that many and-true array of fluffy, colorful and luxurious sweaters with more tailored New Democrat Coalition took a ty-building in order to do that. We trade experts said were meant to wear and accessories. According to a source, Piras is negotiating his new tough stance against the Central don’t believe we’ve gotten the best garner support from textile-state contract after leaving Brioni, the Italian tailoring firm. A Malo spokeswoman American Free Trade Agreement deal we can get for workers in lawmakers for CAFTA. declined to comment. on Wednesday, citing concerns those countries, and there is virtu- Tauscher said, “We don’t for workers’ rights and calling on ally nothing for workers here in want this to be a typical White LONG LIVE THE QUEEN: Sofia Coppola and her cast and crew, filming a movie the Bush administration to rene- the U.S., including having [Trade House, West Wing, QVC situa- about Marie Antoinette in and around Paris, moved to a new location gotiate what they claimed is a Adjustment Assistance] money tion where it is ‘What can I get Saturday night: the fashion hangout Dave. But it wasn’t to film any scenes. flawed pact. slashed every year.” for you, what can I buy for you,’ Instead, Coppola threw a party for star Kirsten Dunst in honor of her 23rd Those opposed to CAFTA are The TAA program offers en- in exchange for a CAFTA vote.” birthday. Toasts were made to Dunst as she chomped on her spareribs. As stating their case as the Presi- hanced unemployment benefits Democratic lawmakers and for dessert, Dave let them eat cake. dent gets ready to send the agree- for workers who lose their jobs union activists assert CAFTA does ment to Congress for approval. due to imports. not abide by core standards estab- COCO LOCO: The Chanel exhibition at the Four leaders of the 42-mem- The four House lawmakers, lished by the International Labor Costume Institute of the Metropolitan ber House coalition said at a who also sent a letter to Bush on Organization, such as allowing Museum of Art has translated into a press conference on Capitol Hill Wednesday, had a laundry list of collective bargaining, enforcing torrent of exceptional press in France. For that CAFTA “rolls back” workers’ complaints about CAFTA and ad- minimum wage requirements, example, Stiletto magazine is publishing a rights protections that already monished the administration for eliminating child labor and dis- special all-Chanel issue, hitting exist in the Caribbean Basin not reaching out to the coalition crimination in the workforce. newsstands today, as it is May 5 (five is Trade Preference Act, and noted for input. In a statement circulated at famously a lucky number for the house). the administration’s budget pri- However, a spokeswoman for the press conference, new U.S. Published in seven languages, it contains orities “undermine efforts” to the Office of the U.S. Trade Rep- Trade Representative Robert fashion shoots by Karl Lagerfeld in New provide assistance to U.S. work- resentative said after the press Portman said: “Now that I have York and Paris, interviews with Chanel ers displaced by trade. conference, “We’ve had numerous been confirmed, I look forward to executives and a behind-the-scenes look The coalition traditionally has meetings specifically targeting the reaching out to Democrats to dis- at the making of lipstick. To celebrate the been pro-trade and has support- new Democrats,” and said they cuss the clear benefits of the issue, models dressed in Chanel visors Stiletto’s Chanel issue. ed other pacts, such as the North met with coalition co-chair Rep. Central American-Dominican and messenger bags will distribute the American Free Trade Agreement. Adam Smith (D., Wash.) twice. Republic agreement to U.S. magazine on the street in New York and Los Angeles today. Rep. Ellen O. Tauscher (D., The administration recently workers, farmers and service Meanwhile, Europe’s Arte channel is airing a five-part series Calif.) said, “All trade agreements has self-initiated a review of providers, and to make clear how documenting the creation of Lagerfeld’s couture collection last July. are not created equal. Clearly, in three Chinese apparel and textile the agreement can improve labor Shot by Paris journalist Loic Prigent, it charts the process from inception this circumstance, we have coun- export categories as part of the conditions in Central America to runway. tries…that have the lowest thresh- safeguard process for possible and the Dominican Republic.”

Sample Makers Technical Designer - Knits Sales Assistant SALES - Junior/Missy 5+ yrs exp w/ bridge knit incl. sketch- Established sportwear importer has Outerwear ing, layouts, spec & fittings; assist Moderate Eveningwear Com- opening in NYC showroom for sales NYC Apparel Company seeks exp’d with color lab dip approvals. Highly pany seeks experienced, ag- person / rep / team for junior & missy outerwear sample makers w/ compre- organized, accurate & detail oriented lines. Must have proven track record hensive knowledge of construction of with knowledge of garment construc- gressive and motivated self and strong following with majors. garments. Candidates should have tion and able to work in a fast-paced starter for sales asst position Please fax resume in confidence to previous experience working with team env. Req good communication & in NYC. Must be organized (212) 575-5311 or Call JJ (631) 697-3342 various types of detailed outerwear follow-up skills. Knowledge of Web CALIFORNIA SUNSHINE ACTIVEWEAR and be able to meet deadlines with PDM & IGRAFX and fit exp helpful. and detail-oriented for diversi- proficiency. We offer a competitive PC proficiency in MS environment a fied duties in day to day sales SALES PROFESSIONAL plus. EOE. Fax resume w/ salary reqs Men’s & Women’s apparel company an Official Licensee of salary with a full benefits package. ops; great oppty to advance ! specializing in closeouts seeks Sales Please fax resume to: (212) 894-7301 to Vivian @ (212) 764-9210 or E-mail: [email protected] MS-Office proficient. Pro who has strong contact with Dept. PLAYBOY Send resumes and salary stores & Chain stores. NYC based. Please fax resume, attn. Moucki @ GREAT OPPORTUNITY requirements to (818) 906-2835 Technical Designer [email protected] or We are looking to add to our current Sales Team aggressive Senior Patternmaker Leading children’s wear importer via fax to 212-764- 8967 Sales Pro’s ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Qualified candidates must have a very seeks an experienced tech designer A Nationaly branded Women’s Active with 3 to 4 years experience and strong contacts with Major & Specialty strong technical background plus 10 yrs with knowledge of garment construc- Line seeks two aggressive experienced tion and developing specs. Must have Stores. Knowledge of Urban Accounts a plus! Territories needed are: experience working with designers. Must ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Sales Pro’s for NY & LA Showrooms. Mid-Atlantic • Rockies • Northwest be skilled in drapping, soft constructed strong communication, organizational MAXX NEW YORK HANDBAGS is Please fax resume 714-890-3126 and computer skills. E-mail resume to: pieces and constructed jackets. seeking experienced, energetic, indi- Multi-line Reps are OK • Competitive Commissions Email resumes with salary req’s to: [email protected] vidual to join our specialty stores sales SENIOR [email protected] team. Candidate must be familiar with All inquiries kept confidential. Please Fax or E-mail resumes to: Technical Designer P/T our product and be able to immediately SALESPERSON 323-235-2727 / [email protected] Est’d denim jeans company seeks detail manage and maintain accounts on all Showroom Assistant oriented person with 5 yrs. min. denim levels. Handbag experience required. At Last Sportswear, Inc. Est’d. Men’s Apparel Co. is seeking an exp. Must be capable of preparing de- Pls fax resume: 212-679-0311 Established missy dress and seperates assistant for our New York sales office. tailed tech paks for prod’n, evaluate company seeks an energetic and moti- ROAD REPS WANTED Candidate must have excellent verbal & washes, spec garments & conduct fittings vated sales professional with current Missy/Plus Swim Sales Account Executive following. We have a strong label and a CZ Cover Ups Seek Motivated REPS NC Sock Mfr. needs Independent Reps written skills w/strong attention to detail. with the ability to communicate changes. to sell new sock lines to Dept./Specialty He/she is proficient in Microsoft Office. Please fax resume to: (212) 575-7860 PL Co. seeks a Key Acct. Sales Person great product. Come join a great team! for Missy/Plus SWIM 2006 Collection. Please send resume Attn: HR Spec Store & Regional Mkt EXP a Stores and majors in their area. Seeking Duties include phones, correspondence, in the US for private label woven. Must exp’d. reps in: Chicago & Dallas markets - and general office duties. Team oriented have strong contacts w/buyers in the Fax: 201-867-8541 Email: [email protected] MUST. Key Territories Available. Traffic Manager Call Andy/Jan 212-398-1445 selling areas would include, IL., OH., setting w/career growth opportunities Star Ride Kids. Estbl’d children’s wear mid-tier & specialty store arena, and IN., KY.,TX., OK., KS., NM., LA., and in sales. Fax resume to: 212-398-9302 importer seeks exp’d individual to proven ability to execute sales. Jrs., TIBI AR. Call or Fax resume to: Missy, and Men’s experience will be coordinate import shipments & out- Leading young Designer Co., Tibi, is Tel: 864-595-0108 / Fax: 828-327-3083 SPEC TECHNICIAN bound orders. 3-5 yrs exp. rqr’d w/ appa- considered. Fax resume: 323-587-3293 seeking an ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE for HUNTINGTON, LI rel imports, freight bookings, customs their Soho showroom. Candidate must Person must have thorough knowledge brokers, truckers & warehouses. You Couture Knit Mfr. be enthusiastic, have contemporary sales of garment construction, patterns, and will: coordinate import and customs Seeking Sales Rep for showroom & trunk experience, and existing relationships specing ability. Must be extremely detail clearance of shipments & following up shows. Must be exp’d. with high-end with Boutiques and Specialty Dept. oriented, computer literate with Excel w/ our warehouse to insure orders are Specialty Stores and must bring own stores. Please Fax resume and salary shipped out on time. Candidate must be requirements to: &workatafastpace.Excellent Benefits, accounts. Fax resume: 212-570-9521 212-966-2961 Salary commensurate with experience. detail oriented, have excellent follow-up Please fax resume to: (631) 673-6744 skills, & be able to work independently. JUNIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE or Email: [email protected] Great opportunity & benefits package. Great opportunity available for multi Please email resume w/ salary require- line designer showroom. Wholesale exp. Tech Designer / ments to: [email protected] preferred. Please email resumes to: Sweater Associate [email protected] Off Price Sales Professional Manager Available Missy/Junior/Kids Sweater Co seeks JR./CONTEMP. MGR Data processing, Cust svc & Ofc mgmt. indiv able to create details, develop Wholsaler seeking for aggressive outside sales pro w/ established Lester’s Greenvale / Roslyn location Seeking F/T position. 25 yrs exp with spec/prod’n pkg/graded spec. Under- needs Mgr. for its trendy, hi-fashion, excellent references. Call 718-564-4882. stand full fashion & domestic sweater. contacts w/ chains & dept. stores 5 years exp. Fax resume 212-944-1087 Jr. & Contemp. dept. Candidate must Must communicate daily with Asia. have min. 2 yrs. mgt. exp, excellent Photoshop & Illustrator skills, etc. sales, cust. service, & merchandising E-mail: [email protected] SALES EXECUTIVE skills, & feel the pulse of trendy fashion. For new Juniors Jeanswear line. Fantastic oppt with incentives & bene- Technical Designer Must have exp, reference, knowledge of fits. References req’d. Fax / E-mail Steve: building brands. Great oppty. & benefits. 718/627-3974 / [email protected] Immediate opening with private label ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Please email: [email protected] sportswear co. technical design dept. Aggressive Women’s Apparel Co. that must have knowledge of construction, specializes in European designed knit STORE MANAGER specs, patterns. Must have very good sweaters, novelty tees and denim has SALES EXECUTIVE Madison Avenue Store organizational skills and be proficient an exciting opportunity available in our Growing women’s contemporary sports Very experienced with minimum of 5 in Excel. Experience with major NY showroom. Must have 3-5 years exp. wear company is seeking an experienced yrs experience in women’s designer discounters preferred. with contacts in major/specialty stores. & ambitious Sales Exec. with strong clothing. Exceptional people skills at For consideration please fax resume Salary, incentives and/or commission. ties to specialty & department stores. customer and staff levels. Client follow- with salary requirements Fax or email resume Attn: Ronen Pls. fax your resume to (212) 354 6052 ing preferred. Please email: Att. George 212 329-0853 (954) 965-4443 / [email protected] or E-mail: [email protected] madison [email protected] 04. rademark of Cotton Incorporated. © Incorporated, 20 TERS. ® Registered Service Mark/T TERS. ® Registered AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPOR AMERICA’S

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