Living the High Life
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www.theolivepress.esll about the lpujarras & Lecrinthe olive press - July 28Valley - August 10, 2011 1 AJuly 2011 A A 16-page Olive Press insiders guide s the taciturn waiter served up an industrial strength coffee, I gently probed as to where I might Afind the local mayor to seek out an interview. Living the He looked at his watch and, al- most cracking a smile, replied: “At this time? He’ll still be asleep.” It was actually already 9:45am in the heart of July, yet in Capileira most of the locals were still sleep- ing and only one of the dozen or high life so cafe/bars was actually open for business. Wendy Williams explores a magical Strange for such an emblematic village – Spain’s second-high- region of myths, mountains and est – and a regular stopping off point for tourists and hikers from sleeping mayors around the world. Life certainly starts later in the Alpujarras and the pace of life is slower than the majority of its waiters. But this, of course, gives you all the more chance to absorb the beautiful scenery. And there is certainly no shortage of that in this charming region, made famous first by British writer Gerald Brenan in his book South from Granada, and more recently by Chris Stewart, of Driving over Lemons fame. La Alpujarra (or Las Alpujarras depending on who you ask - even the road signs can’t make up their minds) is a landlocked mountain- ous region which stretches south from the Sierra Nevada mountain range, around 40 to 50kms in- land from the coast. A colourful region of legends (and perhaps even more colour- ful people), it is one of the driest spots in Spain although this is anything but obvious, its terraced farmlands well watered by melt- ing snow carefully channelled into water courses. It is this series of acequias – first installed by the ancient Moors - that have helped to make the up- per valleys an oasis of green, in dramatic contrast to the arid foot- hills on the facing slopes of the Contraviesa nearer the coast. On first glance, the region is a pas- toral paradise, its 50-odd villages Turn to Page 2 Picture: FRED SHIVELEY 2 3 2 the olive press - July 28 - August 10, 2011 Alpujarras & Lecrinwww.theolivepress.es Valley www.theolivepress.esAlpujarras & Lecrin Valleythe olivespecial press - July 28 - August 10, 2011 3 From Page 1 keys to the town hall. ing information, photos and ins of a Moorish castle which house.” apparently alive from farming Now, I don’t know if this is com- anecdotes. stands precipitously above a Crossick, who has written two and a generous smattering of mon practice but it showed a Reticent to open up and some ravine. anthologies of poems and tourists. level of trust scarcely seen openly hostile, it is largely According to legend when the short stories about his expe- Spirits in the sky where I grew up and where I thanks to the large influx of castle was stormed by the riences added: “The area re- Decidedly rural and great for a holiday, these villages currently live in Malaga. Spaniards from the north and Christians some of the Moors minds me a lot of the Middle (along with those in the near- It also added to a growing im- the rich mix of expatriates, actually threw themselves off East, it is very similar in many by Lecrin Valley) were also as pression that the people of that the region keeps its bal- the edge. ways and I have very happy it happens the last stronghold the Alpujarras belong to a dif- ance. Lanjaron also boasts a num- memories of it so I stayed of the Moors. ferent time, largely untouched Plus there is another dimen- ber of craft shops selling here. by the modern world. sion to the Alpujarras with the wickerwork for which the “Plus it is the only place The whole feel of the region two biggest towns Lanjaron town is well-known. where I could manage to sus- This apparently is distinctly rough and ready, and Orgiva, offering an en- This all stands in contrast to tain myself, live cheaply and unpolished and parochial, yet tirely different flavour to the nearby Orgiva which is the buy land. sleepy enclave with none of the pretensions mountain villages. veritable new age capital of “In the beginning I was ac- you find on the coast. Lanjaron is famous around Spain with three camps for tually selling books on the has a very bloody Further proof of this came in Spain for its waters... and travellers located just outside church steps to get some history due to the the evening when, while en- rather like Bournemouth, is the town. money together. joying tapas in a leafy square, full of old folk who flock to the Here you are more likely to “I couldn’t have done that Reconquest the waitress asked if she area for its apparent healing find people with dreadlocks anywhere else.” and her husband could lock properties. and dogs on strings than Quite simply, the Alpujarras is Indeed, this apparently sleepy up and we simply leave our In a scene more reminiscent grandpas in socks and san- like nowhere else on earth. enclave has a very bloody glasses and plates behind a of a Roman hospital than a dals. From the time of the Moors history, following the Recon- plant pot. relaxing retreat, as you enter While the famous ‘flute FAITH: Orgiva’s Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de la Expiracion to the modern day it has pro- “It is certainly a timeless the Balneario you are greeted woman’ has apparently now vided a refuge for those that quest of Granada in 1492, in “There are a lot of differ- settled here after travelling which the muslim Moors were place” explained Chris Mann, by a gaggle of disappeared were running away or who 52, who splits his time be- pensioners from the steps ent people here - Muslims, for 23 years. just wanted to be free to live forced to convert to Christian- Buddhists, hippies - many of “I went through Israel and ity. tween Brighton and the vil- lining up with People can come of the Iglesia in their own way. lage of Cañar. their plastic de Nuestra whom have travelled a lot and Eastern Europe. But I was lim- Ultimately it is a magical Those who refused took to the then stayed,” explains Qasim ited by my fear of flying so I hills, settling in this remote “We absolutely love the Alpu- cups to drink here and live how Senora de la place full of contrasts; it jarras because it is still dis- the famous Expiracion - Barrio, 38, who runs the res- had to drive everywhere or go boasts lush greenery next to area where they were able to they like without taurant Baraka. by bus, train or hitchhike,” he maintain a distinct culture for tinctly the real Spain. water. the impressive arid landscapes, it is one of “There are no English break- But there are church that “Orgiva might not have that explained. the driest places in Spain, decades. being judged or much or be the most beau- “Then I arrived in Orgiva 10 But the peace wasn’t to last BLOODY PAST: Remains of Lanjaron’s Moorish castle, where countless battles took place fasts and no fish and chips... also plenty of dominates the yet famous for its water, it is and I don’t think they’ll ever other things being afraid skyline – there tiful place but people can years ago as a volunteer on a timeless zone, yet modern and in 1568 there was a come here and live how they an organic farm, I did a few bloody uprising - the Morisco families for each village. of white houses with flat clay change that.” going on are plenty of in thinking, and it offers ‘real’ systems. other colourful like without being judged or months and went home and Rebellion - which was ruth- Legend has it; these families Certainly, the unique villages roofs and chimneys, which He added: “The Spanish here around Lanja- Spain, while attracting inter- are very hardworking, strong ron. people to make up for it. being afraid, it offers the pos- then came back. I bought a esting people from all around lessly crushed leading to their were ordered to remain by the have retained much of their are unique to the region. sibility to be themselves.” truck and converted it as a eviction from the area, with Spanish crown to maintain And the locals don’t seem to mountain people.” First and foremost, with its In fact I was lucky enough to the world. traditional Berber-style archi- come across ‘the cigarette This is a view also supported way of staying permanently, the exception of two Moorish the complicated irrigation tecture with terraced clusters be losing sleep over their vio- “But,” he quipped, “it takes enviable location at the gate- And to top it all off, some- six months for your neighbour way to the Alpujarras, it is an man’ not once but twice, in by writer Bill Crossick, 45, before eventually buying land times you really do drive over lent past. originally from Yorkshire, who below Cañar where I built a In fact, they are getting plenty to first say hello.” ideal base for walkers and two different towns. A slightly lemons to get there. of it... certainly if being a may- This is certainly the case, with climbers. dishevelled looking figure, he or is anything to go by.