www.theolivepress.esll about the lpujarras & Lecrinthe olive press - July 28Valley - August 10, 2011 1 AJuly 2011 A A 16-page Olive Press insiders guide s the taciturn waiter served up an industrial strength coffee, I gently probed as to where I might Afind the local mayor to seek out an interview. Living the He looked at his watch and, al- most cracking a smile, replied: “At this time? He’ll still be asleep.” It was actually already 9:45am in the heart of July, yet in most of the locals were still sleep- ing and only one of the dozen or high life so cafe/bars was actually open for business. Wendy Williams explores a magical Strange for such an emblematic village – ’s second-high- region of myths, mountains and est – and a regular stopping off point for tourists and hikers from sleeping mayors around the world. Life certainly starts later in the and the pace of life is slower than the majority of its waiters. But this, of course, gives you all the more chance to absorb the beautiful scenery. And there is certainly no shortage of that in this charming region, made famous first by British writer Gerald Brenan in his book South from , and more recently by Chris Stewart, of Driving over Lemons fame. La Alpujarra (or Las Alpujarras depending on who you ask - even the road signs can’t make up their minds) is a landlocked mountain- ous region which stretches south from the mountain range, around 40 to 50kms in- land from the coast. A colourful region of legends (and perhaps even more colour- ful people), it is one of the driest spots in Spain although this is anything but obvious, its terraced farmlands well watered by melt- ing snow carefully channelled into water courses. It is this series of acequias – first installed by the ancient - that have helped to make the up- per valleys an oasis of green, in dramatic contrast to the arid foot- hills on the facing slopes of the Contraviesa nearer the coast. On first glance, the region is a pas- toral paradise, its 50-odd villages Turn to Page 2 Picture: FRED SHIVELEY 2 3 2 the olive press - July 28 - August 10, 2011 Alpujarras & Lecrinwww.theolivepress.es Valley www.theolivepress.esAlpujarras & Lecrin Valleythe olivespecial press - July 28 - August 10, 2011 3

From Page 1 keys to the town hall. ing information, photos and ins of a Moorish castle which house.” apparently alive from farming Now, I don’t know if this is com- anecdotes. stands precipitously above a Crossick, who has written two and a generous smattering of mon practice but it showed a Reticent to open up and some ravine. anthologies of poems and tourists. level of trust scarcely seen openly hostile, it is largely According to legend when the short stories about his expe- Spirits in the sky where I grew up and where I thanks to the large influx of castle was stormed by the riences added: “The area re- Decidedly rural and great for a holiday, these villages currently live in Malaga. Spaniards from the north and Christians some of the Moors minds me a lot of the Middle (along with those in the near- It also added to a growing im- the rich mix of expatriates, actually threw themselves off East, it is very similar in many by Lecrin Valley) were also as pression that the people of that the region keeps its bal- the edge. ways and I have very happy it happens the last stronghold the Alpujarras belong to a dif- ance. Lanjaron also boasts a num- memories of it so I stayed of the Moors. ferent time, largely untouched Plus there is another dimen- ber of craft shops selling here. by the modern world. sion to the Alpujarras with the wickerwork for which the “Plus it is the only place The whole feel of the region two biggest towns Lanjaron town is well-known. where I could manage to sus- This apparently is distinctly rough and ready, and Orgiva, offering an en- This all stands in contrast to tain myself, live cheaply and unpolished and parochial, yet tirely different flavour to the nearby Orgiva which is the buy land. sleepy enclave with none of the pretensions mountain villages. veritable new age capital of “In the beginning I was ac- you find on the coast. Lanjaron is famous around Spain with three camps for tually selling books on the has a very bloody Further proof of this came in Spain for its waters... and travellers located just outside church steps to get some history due to the the evening when, while en- rather like Bournemouth, is the town. money together. joying tapas in a leafy square, full of old folk who flock to the Here you are more likely to “I couldn’t have done that Reconquest the waitress asked if she area for its apparent healing find people with dreadlocks anywhere else.” and her husband could lock properties. and dogs on strings than Quite simply, the Alpujarras is Indeed, this apparently sleepy up and we simply leave our In a scene more reminiscent grandpas in socks and san- like nowhere else on earth. enclave has a very bloody glasses and plates behind a of a Roman hospital than a dals. From the time of the Moors history, following the Recon- plant pot. relaxing retreat, as you enter While the famous ‘flute FAITH: Orgiva’s Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de la Expiracion to the modern day it has pro- “It is certainly a timeless the Balneario you are greeted woman’ has apparently now vided a refuge for those that quest of Granada in 1492, in “There are a lot of differ- settled here after travelling which the muslim Moors were place” explained Chris Mann, by a gaggle of disappeared were running away or who 52, who splits his time be- pensioners from the steps ent people here - Muslims, for 23 years. just wanted to be free to live forced to convert to Christian- Buddhists, hippies - many of “I went through Israel and ity. tween Brighton and the vil- lining up with People can come of the Iglesia in their own way. lage of Cañar. their plastic de Nuestra whom have travelled a lot and Eastern Europe. But I was lim- Ultimately it is a magical Those who refused took to the then stayed,” explains Qasim ited by my fear of flying so I hills, settling in this remote “We absolutely love the Alpu- cups to drink here and live how Senora de la place full of contrasts; it jarras because it is still dis- the famous Expiracion - Barrio, 38, who runs the res- had to drive everywhere or go boasts lush greenery next to area where they were able to they like without taurant Baraka. by , train or hitchhike,” he maintain a distinct culture for tinctly the real Spain. water. the impressive arid landscapes, it is one of “There are no English break- But there are church that “Orgiva might not have that explained. the driest places in Spain, decades. being judged or much or be the most beau- “Then I arrived in Orgiva 10 But the peace wasn’t to last BLOODY PAST: Remains of Lanjaron’s Moorish castle, where countless battles took place fasts and no fish and chips... also plenty of dominates the yet famous for its water, it is and I don’t think they’ll ever other things being afraid skyline – there tiful place but people can years ago as a volunteer on a timeless zone, yet modern and in 1568 there was a come here and live how they an organic farm, I did a few bloody uprising - the families for each village. of white houses with flat clay change that.” going on are plenty of in thinking, and it offers ‘real’ systems. other colourful like without being judged or months and went home and Rebellion - which was ruth- Legend has it; these families Certainly, the unique villages roofs and chimneys, which He added: “The Spanish here around Lanja- Spain, while attracting inter- are very hardworking, strong ron. people to make up for it. being afraid, it offers the pos- then came back. I bought a esting people from all around lessly crushed leading to their were ordered to remain by the have retained much of their are unique to the region. sibility to be themselves.” truck and converted it as a eviction from the area, with Spanish crown to maintain And the locals don’t seem to mountain people.” First and foremost, with its In fact I was lucky enough to the world. traditional Berber-style archi- come across ‘the cigarette This is a view also supported way of staying permanently, the exception of two Moorish the complicated irrigation tecture with terraced clusters be losing sleep over their vio- “But,” he quipped, “it takes enviable location at the gate- And to top it all off, some- six months for your neighbour way to the Alpujarras, it is an man’ not once but twice, in by writer Bill Crossick, 45, before eventually buying land times you really do drive over lent past. originally from Yorkshire, who below Cañar where I built a In fact, they are getting plenty to first say hello.” ideal base for walkers and two different towns. A slightly lemons to get there. of it... certainly if being a may- This is certainly the case, with climbers. dishevelled looking figure, he or is anything to go by. locals showing a distinct wari- Moreover, visible from the gruffly asks for cigarettes be- For the following day we were ness as we went about seek- town are the impressive ru- fore snatching one and disap- to be confronted by yet an- pearing without so much as a other sleeping mayor after thank you. my colleague left his camera “He’s infamous and weirdly in another town hall which no one has ever seen him by the time we returned was smoking,” explained one lo- typically shut for the day. cal expat. Told that nobody would be Of course Orgiva seems posi- back until the next day, we tively bustling in contrast to eventually tracked down the the nearby villages. mayor, who conveniently Car horns were beeping as owned the local supermar- a traffic jam along the main ket. road seemed to bring the The only problem... he was town to a standstill. already taking his daily siesta But in truth, Orgiva is also and couldn’t be disturbed. incredibly laid back, with ru- But then his wife, who was mours there are lay lines that cutting ham on the deli coun- run through the town. ter, promptly came up with There is certainly an indefin- a solution and without com- able quality felt by the hun- ment, simply handed over the dreds of expats, who have been drawn to the town like RELAX: Life in the slow lane in a backstreet of Lanjaron magnets. Variety spice of life SET up by Qasim Barrio eight years ago, Baraka, a Moroccan restaurant and tea shop in the heart of Orgiva, is by far the best known cafe in town. “Baraka was born to provide a meeting place for all the alternative people living in the area,” explains Qasim, 38, who con- verted to Islam eight years ago. “Everyone comes here... a real diverse crowd from Buddhists to hippies and from business- men to the local Spanish.”The kitchen specialises in showarma and typical Ara- served but there is an extensive menu of bic cuisine but there are also a variety of tea, coffee and juices - and it has been Spanish dishes on the menu and home- a strictly non-smoking venue since long made ice cream in the summer. before the ban came into force across Almost uniquely, they now have a ‘certi- Spain. fied organic menu’ for those who want to “You can’t really find that anywhere else in eat 100 percent ecological. No alcohol is Granada,” adds Qasim. 44 the olive press - July 28 - August 10, 2011 www.theolivepress.es www.theolivepress.es 5 the olive press - July 28 - August 10, 2011 175 Alpujarras & Lecrin Valley special Alpujarras & Lecrin Valley Join free IN FOCUS: The people and personalities of the Alpujarras Obit: David Dry 1934 to 2011 today, AVING sold over two mil- A man who helped to build Orgiva lion books on the region, he is understandably one HE was certainly one of the true characters of the Alpujarras. A gentle man, full of Andalucia’s best known of excellent advice, who became known as one of Andalucia’s best expatriate Hexpats. architects. But in the Alpujarras, Chris Stewart MAKING A So it is with great sadness that David Dry passed away in May, leaving his third is nothing short of a hero. wife Shujata in their beautiful, recently-completed town centre project of four Indeed, the ex-Genesis drummer townhouses in Orgiva (see advert below). has arguably done more for the re- David and his second wife Dot had first moved to the area in the 1990s, when gion than anyone else. they bought a finca on a hillside near Orgiva where they set about building a For since settling in his farmhouse, El Valero, near Orgiva, with his LIVING WITHOUT small cluster of holiday cottages grouped around their own house. Over the next wife Ana over 20 years ago he has 20 years David gained a considerable reputation locally for his design of private save worked tirelessly to put the region houses, all charmingly detailed, showing great respect for local building tradi- on the map. tions, yet innovative and energy efficient. He was always drawing, even in meet- tomorrow! His trilogy of books, starting with ings with clients; and was a great communicator who could quickly and graphi- Driving over Lemons, has now been cally depict their aspirations. GETTING DIRTY Back in the UK, his group of farm buildings at Fulmer, translated into Spanish and sold around the world. Bucks, led to him being compared to the great architect Helle Hollis Yet, for the first 10 years he lived in The vivid pictures he Frank Lloyd Wright in the Telegraph in 1963. His then ‘pleasant and agreeable penury’, he Author Chris Stewart tells the Olive Press paints are indeed full of interesting i s company Dry Halasz and Associates was involved in a tells the Olive Press at his charming characters and scenarios that are impossible myriad of project types, including the design of nau- Car Rental Club farmhouse. that he still loves the area and will only ever difficult to really imagine until you to make any kind of living tical instruments, hotels, restaurants, hairdressing “Then, as soon as the book went leave it in a box visit the Alpujarras and see how true out of it. salons, offices, cinemas, yacht interiors, and local au- wild I started having Japanese tour- to life his books are. “That’s why people abandoned thority housing for Camden, Islington and Haringey in We offer significant ists beating down my door and my But despite his new found fame and these small mountain farms: the the golden age of the then groundbreaking ‘high densi- face got put on a local town post- fortune he has no desire to sell up work is just too hard and there’s no ty, low rise’. His commissions included London restau- card.” and live the high life real money in it.” savings on car hire Indeed, he is now so much a part of rants, the Snooty Fox in Mayfair and the Isaac Wal- somewhere else. He continues: “But ton in Chelsea, and he worked on the Hotel Carlton the community that as a joke, some “The one question what it gives us is for you, your family of the locals put up notices around that never fails to pop It has less in Cannes, as well as the Metropole in Monaco. quality of life: freshly Ultimately David was an optimist, re- Lanjaron advertising the ‘annual up, in either country, appealing aspects picked and pressed or friends. open day’ of Chris Stewart’s prop- is: ‘Now you’ve sold oranges for break- lentlessly enthusiastic and a gifted erty on April 1. some books, are you but being on the fast, our own olive oil architect. He was generous of spirit “But then every paradise has its still living on that farm keeps me in by the gallon, home- and touched the lives of so many flaws,” he said. “We liked what we dump of a farm?’ reared meat and who were fortunate enough to count saw 20 years ago and, to be fair, we “It’s true that the a state of bliss fruit, vegetables and him as a friend and colleague. like it even more today.” farm has its less eggs. He continues: “I somehow turned pleasing aspects. It’s “We still love El Vale- into more of a writer than a farmer, baking hot in summer, freezing in ro and the only way we’re leaving but I still find it hard to get used to RURAL: Stewart’s home and (right) beside his ‘green’ reed pool winter; the house has an immovable here is in a box - perhaps not even this idea of making a living without a new crop - books - to keep the that Spaniards, too, liked to read colony of fleas and thick stone walls then, as it happens, for both Ana getting dirty. wolves from the door.” about our isolated rural corner of teeming with ants. and I plan to lay our bones beneath “But farming is a hard way to earn He adds: “I had imagined the appeal Andalucia with its oddball mix of “But simply being on the farm keeps an orange tree on what is known an honest crust at the best of times, of my stories was pretty much lim- peasant farmers, new-age travellers me in a state of bliss - which is just as as the Mandarin Terrace, and there and I feel lucky to have discovered ited to the British but it turned out and expats.” well because we’ve come to accept it for all eternity enjoy the view of the Cadiar river mingling with the waters of the Trevelez, below the great blue snow-capped Sierra de Lujar.” Lorca: My Chris Stewart’s third book The Almond Blossom Appre- ciation Society has just been 15% discount off all ‘exotic’ trip to translated into Spanish car hire for you, your the Alpujarras family and friends HE is Spain’s most famous poet, murdered by Fran- The area’s co’s troops during the Spanish Civil War, becoming a Fair fuel policy only martyr and a legend in the process. bible Granada-born Federico Garcia Lorca was also a regu- pay for fuel used lar visitor to the Alpujarras, particularly to Lanjaron where his mother was sent to drink the waters. Clearly taken by the area he wrote in a letter to his 10% extra discount brother: “I did a little excursion to la Alpujarra. It took us two days. I have never seen anything so when family or friends exotic and mysterious. I can’t believe that it is in Europe.” book on your membership number

BRITON Gerald Brenan is the writer who first put Call us today on 952 24 55 44 the Alpujarras on the map with his insightful book South from Granada, writ- www.hellehollis.com ten in 1957, which is long revered as the archetypal Find us at Málaga Airport and in Fuengirola tome on the area. 66 the olive press - July 28 - August 10, 2011 www.theolivepress.es www.theolivepress.es 7 the olive press - July 28 - August 10, 2011 7 Alpujarras & Lecrin Valley special Alpujarras & Lecrin Valley

The Lecrin Valley rolling countryside and sleepy IDYLLIC: Views of Murchas (below and villages where sheep and left), while (right) a Moorish castle is also popular goats are herded through nar- row streets. with numerous It offers a complete escape celebs including from the pressures of mod- ern living. Paul Weller and Situated in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada, many of the Alexei Sayle, 17 tiny villages seem to liter- discovers Wendy Why the ally blend into each other. As the mayor of Lecrin Sal- Williams vador Ramirez Gongora, who is now serving his sixth term, T might be a backwater explains: “It has changed, but hardly known even on ‘valley of not that much.” ruined Arabic castles and look-out towers. Granada’s own Costa Going hand in hand with this, Travelling south from Granada in the 7th Tropical, but the Lecrin you will be hard pressed to Century the Moors chanced upon this fertile Valley is certainly big in find people who speak Eng- land and named it El Valle de Lecrín - the Val- children’s TV. happiness’ lish. ley of Happiness. So big in fact that regular visi- But its history was not always happy. Itors to the stunning rural idyll It was actually here where Boabdil, the last include Teletubbies creator The indelible King of the Nazrids, moved after being forced Andrew Davenport and Bob mark of the out of the city of Granada on signing the Dec- the Builder producer Kate is big in laration of Surrender, handing his beloved Fawkes. Moors remains city over to the Catholic Monarchs. “I actually met them both in Appropriately, the last view of the city before a shop a few months ago and in the names and descending into the Valle de Lecrín is from that swept through the valley is in the ruins - was able to introduce them architecture the Puerto del Suspiro del Moro (The Pass of the most famous being those of Lecrín Castle to each other,” explains lo- children’s TV the Moor’s Sigh). where the kings and queens of Granada were buried. cal hotelier Scarlett Farrow, Of course, this time warp is It garners its name, legend has it, as be- who has lived in Lecrin, which - home to just 278 inhabit- learn that other notables, worked from a studio near Al- tiful area has been little af- ing the spot where the king broke down in It is believed that the last burial was of Mo- made all the more fascinat- raima, the wife of Boabdil, who died in Cádiar translates literally as the ants. including Alexei Sayle, Paul buñelas for the last decade. fected by tourism. ing by the fact that although tears as he took one last glance back at the ‘Happy Valley’, for a decade. There is certainly something Weller and George Michael’s “They are certainly infinitely If you are looking for a cultur- city. And his mother famously commented: as they were preparing to leave for exile in it seems a far cry from the Africa. “It is a beautiful area where special about the enclave, publisher Dick Leahy, either more interesting than the al hub with bright lights, and twenty first century, the val- “Weep then like a woman, over that which people can have their pri- which sits about equidistance own homes here or visit regu- cocktail party set on the Michelin-starred restaurants you could not defend like a man.” Now, walking around the many villages the in- ley really is only twenty-five delible mark of the Moors remains in names vacy if they want it, but there between Granada city and the larly. Costa del Sol with all those then look again. minutes from the centre of Later the valley became a battleground in the is plenty going on here and coast at . “The area attracts some nationalistic enclaves.” The Lecrin valley is what you bloody Morisco uprising due to its strategi- and architecture but the valley has slipped Granada. into a peaceful slumber. nearby in Granada,” adds Comprising a wealth of pretty rather strange, but interest- It is easy to see why. think of when you conjure Where this becomes appar- cally important position as the only southerly Scarlett, who runs La Finca villages and charming coun- ing people,” explains painter Scattered with lemon, orange up traditional images of the access route to Granada and the only point It has once again become a Valley of Happi- ent is in the history of the ness and it is no surprise that so many people guest house near Murchas tryside, it is little surprise to James Connell, who has and almond trees, this beau- sun-drenched south of Spain; valley, which is dotted with of entry to the Western Alpujarras. Yet today the only hint of the devastation have come here to create their own idyll.

TUCKED away in the nar- row streets of Chite is one The Camel Stop of the most exciting finds in the valley. The Camel Stop, a second hand clothing, jewellery and furniture emporium, was set up by Gym Hala- ma, a film set painter from Chelsea. It has a hidden cache of treasures on offer, includ- ing paintings, decorative objects, furniture, textiles and vintage clothes. You can also unwind with a Moroccan tea at the ‘Last Straw’ café on the roof ter- race. 8 8 Alpujarrasthe olive press - July 28 - August 10, 2011 & Lecrin Valley specialwww.theolivepress.es www.theolivepress.es the olive press - July 28 - August 10, 2011 9 With your head in the clouds… Take a ride up the gorge and beyond to appreciate the best that the Alpujarras has to offer

T is really the only way It is little wonder that 19th to see the Alpujarras century traveller Richard – from above. Ford described the area as As you make your way the ‘Switzerland of Spain’. Iup to the three white villag- Later, Spanish poet Garcia es - Capileira, Bubion and Lorca and English writer - that straddle Gerald Brenan both waxed the Poqueira gorge you as- lyrical about its people and cend to the heavens catch- landscapes. ing glimpses of snow, even Initially a little chocolate- in the height of summer. boxy in feel, once inside you Capileira is the highest of will find some great shops the three pueblos at 1,435 and surprisingly good res- metres making it the sec- taurants in the villages, ond highest village in all of which fill up on weekends. Spain, behind nearby Trev- Precariously sited, the steep- MASTERCLASS: Teaching flamenco in Capileira, (right) a elez, which sits at a vertigi- ness of the land means that view of in snow and (below) rugs for sale nous 1,500 metres. the houses in the villages Boasting a dramatic posi- seem to be piled on top of narrow streets giving them clearly visible. tion with a mountain back- another. a unique and picturesque From here it is also just a BREATHTAKING: drop of the Sierra Nevada - Their architecture is char- appearance. short journey along the high Capileira (left and where blue skies meet pure acterised by over 500 years And as if to remind you mountain road east towards above) and two shots white snow - one of their years of Moorish occupa- where this style first came Trevelez, and the five near- of onions and a street greatest assets is their fan- tion with flat roofs, distinc- from, the Rif Mountains of by villages that make up the scene in Pitres (right) IDYLLIC: Reading beside Casa Iberos pool in Bubion tastic hiking opportunities. tive chimneys, and steep Morocco are sometimes Taha region.

The town of Trevelez is well worth a visit and has become fa- mous for its curing of hams and the place is literally full of ham shops and factories. Meanwhile east of Trevelez you will find , an important silk centre in Moorish times, Berchules, a high village of grassy streams and chest- nut woods, and Ca- diar, which Brenan described as the ‘na- vel’. Beyond this the rolling countryside heads off towards Almeria and the charming towns of Ugijar and Yegen, where Brenan lived for a decade. 10 the olive press - July 28 - August 10, 2011 10 www.theolivepress.es www.theolivepress.es 11 the olive press - July 28 - August 10, 2011 11 Alpujarras & Lecrin Valley special Alpujarras & Lecrin Valley

HIDDEN away in a pocket of green, the Kaliyoga retreat of- fers the perfect escape from a Kicking busy and stressful life. A real aura of calm surrounds Beauty in life the place so that whether you want to learn about yoga or ‘su- By Wendy Williams Arte Vivo showcases the best of Alpujarran back perfoods’, take part in an inten- art every month in Orgiva Kaliyoga is a perfect sive detox or simply relax by the OVED by the energy pool, Kaliyoga has something of the mountains venue to find a release for everyone. and the beauty of from the stresses of According to Dominic Islip, the Alpujarras, a who took over the running of Mgroup of international artists modern life the retreat three months ago, it formed a cooperative to help offers the perfect venue for sim- the dozens of struggling art- ilar minded people to come to- ists who live in the area. gether and relax. “Some people One year on and Alpuajarra: come to change and they come Arte Vivo has proved to be a with issues; while a lot just success with a monthly art ARTY: Some of the Arte come to unwind,” he says. “We create a family atmosphere that and craft market in Orgiva Vivo team and their work and an annual exhibition in is very communal so everyone Granada. ate beauty and that beauty feels welcome. Launched in 2010, the Mer- matters and contributes to “You see some opening up for cado de las Artes showcases the quality of daily life.” the first time and it is special to the works of over two dozen Her colleague Angel Vera, witness people let go and expe- artisans from around the re- who has his own workshop rience a release of emotion. gion. put a lot of attention into the in the Poqueira gorge, added: “Modern life stretches you in things in cooperation. many directions and through Including a huge range of quality of the products we sell “The powerful energy of the “We work together as a team works from paintings and ce- and we try to present a good and help support and pro- yoga you can find your centre mountains, the quiet and again.” ramics to woodwork and jew- atmosphere to the public. the beauty give us a creative mote each other.” ellery, there is also interactive “Participating in an asso- The retreat runs six-day pro- energy which I don’t feel any- grams including two daily yoga workshops and live music. ciation with other artists and where else,” added the Dutch The art market takes place Jeannette Claessen, a sculp- handicraft producers we at Plaza de la Alpujarra in classes, from beginners to ad- woman. vanced. tor, explained: “Since the be- have the opportunity to work “We want to show that every- Orgiva on the first saturday of ginning of the market we have together and develop new each month There is also an emphasis on body has the capacity to cre- healthy eating and the benefits of superfoods such as spirulina, maca and gojiberries. And lo- cal osteopath Veronica runs a popular ‘juice fasting detox’ Healing the soul for 250 years! course, which involves classes Lanjaron Spa has welcomed the on health and nutrition. likes of Bertrand Russell and Virginia Woolf to its waters

MEDICINAL: The OVER the years it has attracted the likes of Vir- waters of the ginia Woolf, Bertrand Russell and Federico Gar- Lanjaron Spa and cia Lorca, not to mention countless royals. (right) 100 years And while admittedly today you are more likely ago to find lines of pensioners queuing up for a taste of the water, it is still a very popular spot. In fact ever since the 19th century the Balneario de Lan- jaron Spa has seen people from around the world flock to enjoy the medicinal qualities of the regions waters. According to the owner of the recently renovated spa, Luis Espinola, as many as 400 people – of all ages - pass through their doors each day. “The waters were discovered to have medicinal proper- ties as far back as 1760 and there has been a spa here ever since,” he explained. The spa boasts six different natural springs each with their own properties and unique taste. Meanwhile for those that want to relax the spa has 22 different treatments including jacuzzis, massages and even a chocolate wrap. 12 the olive press - July 28 - August 10, 2011 12 www.theolivepress.es www.theolivepress.es the olive press - July 28 - August 10, 2011 1313 Alpujarras & Lecrin Valley special Alpujarras & Lecrin Valley special

HE Alpujarras is the A green perfect area for hik- ers, with a network of Mulhacen guesthouse ancient trails linking AT 3,482m the summit of Mulhacen Tthe white villages and criss- stands above anything else, not only Bedtime crossing a landscape of olive in the Alpujarras but in the whole of with true groves and terraces. the Iberian Peninsula. No doubt then Walking though the lower why an ascent is often the main rea- luxury hills of the region is a delight son walkers come to the area. Once at any time of the year with A real high! clear of snow - usually by May - Mul- countless routes running hacen offers reasonably fit walkers a prayers through the steep-sided val- Walking guide Martin Riley on why taking a trek chance to experience walking in the leys and crossing mountain around the Alpujarras will never be forgotten high mountains. Walking in these rug- SET amid 21 acres of al- streams using ancient pack- ged peaks is not to be taken lightly mond and olive groves in WHERE TO STAY horse bridges. however as above 2,500m the affects the Sierra Nevada National Here you can enjoy relaxed the soaring Sierra Nevada mountains And they are surrounded by remote val- of the high altitude begin to kick in Park the stunning Hacienda walking taking in the dra- which form the northern edge of the leys and corries bounded by narrow rocky and steep ascents of these 3,000m Los Olivos is a wonderful The Lecrin Valley has a matic scenery before arriving Alpujarras. ridges. Here are three of my top picks... plus peaks can prove to be tough. The ascent of Mulhacen is best place to unwind. surprisingly large amount room with a view. Here you in time for a refreshing drink Although not as rugged as other Spanish done as part of a two-day trek from the Poqueira Mountain Refuge. While it is officially a Chris- of good places to stay. In in one of the many shady pla- sierras it should not be underestimated. Martin Riley is a qualified British moun- The rewards though for those who do summit Mulhacen are massive can also enjoy a delicious tain guide. His company The Life of Riley tian Retreat Centre, every- particular in Murchas with meal in the restaurant, zas. There are more than a dozen peaks over with dramatic views and magnificent mountain scenery at every turn. one is welcome to come and the opening of the fabu- For many walkers though, the 3,000m including mainland Spain’s offers clients a range of walks for all lev- which serves traditional els. Contact him on 696 354 824 enjoy the incredible peace, lous guest house La Finca food. main appeal of the region is highest peak, Mulhacen 3,482m. high in the hills above the (see article left), which has Over in the Alpujarras there Lecrin Valley. also been designed with the is a huge range of accommo- Open just a few months, the environment in mind and dation, one of the best being retreat, run by Church of boasts a prime location in the three star Hotel Finca Ruta Medieval England curator Dani Mu- the valley with enviable los Llanos in the stunning ñoz, 35, and his partner Guy views. pueblo blanco Capileira. THE Ruta Medieval shows off the best that the lower hills Wynter, 39, has an empha- Meanwhile the delightful It was established in 1990 have to offer. The route threads its way through the villages sis on the spiritual. Bed and Breakfast El Cor- and offers 40 rooms with all of the Taha, an area of the Alpujarras east of the Poqueira While importantly for the tijo del Pino at the top of the mod-cons. Gorge made up of about a dozen small villages ranging from green traveller, Los Olivos valley in Albunelas offers an Offering accommodation the largest, Pitres, right down to Altabetar, a small hamlet – which received an EU unspoilt haven of peace. with a difference, Casa Ibe- of around 20 properties. Steeped in the folklore of the Al- grant for being a sustain- Offering sweeping views of ro, in Bubion, boasts two pujarras, the walk is great not only for walkers but also for able tourist project - is car- the Lecrin valley the magi- colourfully decorated hous- those with an interest in the history of the area. Well signed bon neutral, generating all cal guesthouse is named es that are ideal for families with its own distinctive ceramic plaque the route takes you its heating and power from after an extremely old pine and small groups, set among across a dramatic ‘Roman’ bridge high above the Rio Trev- renewable energy sources. tree, which is said to be one beautiful gardens. elez, passes long-disused corn mills and threshing circles, It is a great place to unwind of the oldest in Spain. Run by the incredibly hos- or ‘eras’, and via the ruins of Arab bathhouses. enjoying the stunning views Run by artist James Con- pitable Montse, the houses from the pool terrace or for nell and his wife Antonia boast a pool with breath- hikers with the renowned in- – whose hospitality is sec- taking views of the valley; ternational trail the GR7 run- ond to none – it has been a perfect spot to unwind at ning right past the doorstep. charmingly decorated to the end of the day. Gorge make Another great option in Bu- you feel bion is Casa La Sevillana, THE Monachil Gorge is a deservedly popular right at which is a cosy hideaway, short walk close to Granada. While strictly home. perfect for exploring the speaking not quite in the Alpujarras this walk A little valley. is close at hand and has to rank as one of the HE ecological less Set up by Eva Love and her best short walks in the region. Reputed to have guesthouse sits in off the husband Julio, it is a com- been used in one of the Indiana Jones mov- acres of stunning beaten fortable house in a great ies, the gorge is a spectacular cleft through olive groves with track location. high mountain cliffs. The route uses suspen- viewsT right across the Lecrin is Los Down in Orgiva, the pick sion bridges to cross the mountain stream run- valley. Nara- would have to be Alma ning through the spectacular rock scenery of La Finca, also known as njos Alpujarrena if you are look- the gorge. A narrow ‘path’ is followed with the Casa Amelia, has finally in Me- ing for value, while Hostal aid of well placed steel staples fixed into the opened offering guests the legis, Semaforo in the centre has rock. Other sections have to be taken on all a great some excellent value rooms fours and rock tunnels negotiated. It sounds most amazing range of com- value fort and hospitality. as well. scary but it is in fact easy enough if you have a option, If it is comfort you are after reasonable agility and a head for heights. Once Run by the perfect hostess which through you can laze by the river and take your Scarlett Farrow and husband – and stunning countryside still of- – you can do no wrong by time over a picnic. Chris (above), the estate oper- fers a ROOMS WITH A VIEW: Casa Ibero and (top) Olivos staying at wonderful Los ates as a centre for permac- Piedaos, a famously green ulture and has been restored retreat. with a keen eye for detail. Boasting solar panels and two generators run on ol- ive pips, the guesthouse, comprising four spacious and beautifully appointed suites, strikes the perfect balance between sustain- able and luxury. As well as sumptious decor and furnishings, guests are treated to home-cooked, organic meals, and Scarlett even runs cookery courses, on a range of themes. “My dad, who was a film direc- tor at Pinewood was always a gourmet so I think that’s where it comes from,” ex- plains Scarlett. “The Lecrin valley really is a fabulous place to have a break.” Visit www.newcasaamelia. com/lafinca 1414 the olive press - July 28 - August 10, 2011 www.theolivepress.es www.theolivepress.es the olive press - July 28 - August 10, 2011 1515 Alpujarras & Lecrin Valley special Alpujarras & Lecrin Valley special

By Wendy Williams

ESTLED in the heart of Home of home-cooking the Alpujarras where the Where the mountains meet the sky you will find La Taha. ALTHOUGH it is not exactly Alpujarras and nearby Lec- TALENT: Ramon at NThis group of villages, clustered the food capital of Andalu- rin Valley for a decent meal. WHERE TO EAT together in the Sierra Nevada Na- cia, more and more places Restaurante Garvi, in Lec- Estacion 4, El Viejo Molino and Cafe Ambienza (inset) tional Park, includes Pitres, Cap- mountains are starting to emerge in the rin for example offers deli- open mic night. ilerilla, Mecina, Mecinilla, Fon- cious no-fuss food. Though dales, Atalbéitar and Ferreirola. perhaps designed more for Over in Orgiva you should check out the recently Echoes of their Roman and Mus- carnivores than vegetar- lim heritage are traceable around ians the house speciality renovated El Viejo Mo- lino, which is a spacious every corner and their charms in- meet the sky is delicious ‘choto’ or goat clude natural springs, rivers and, and the fabulous old photos restaurant with impressive wooden beams, a tradition- in particular, exceptional views. and paintings on the wall La Taha is an ideal place for La Taha is a picture add to the atmosphere. al open fireplace for winter and two great open air ter- hiking, cycling and horse riding postcard escape doing its Moving into the Alpujar- with three international walk- ras you will find Ambienza, races. Baraka is also well worth ing trails (the GR-7, GR-142 bit for the environment recently taken over by a and GR-240) winding through. young Israeli/English cou- checking out if you are in Orgiva. A gathering point But the area also offers an oa- ple, offering service with sis of tranquility long admired a smile. The buzzing café/ for the many different tribes who gravitate to the by generations of photographers restaurant in the heart of and painters who have come to Lanjaron has already es- town, there is a clear Mo- roccan influence on both capture its beauty. tablished itself as the main One of the most interesting plac- hang out in the commu- the menu and the décor. Moving up into the Po- es to visit is the Casa Arte cultural nity. centre, which is a creative space As well as a healthy, organ- queira gorge you will find Casa de Paco y Pilar in for artists involved in ceramics, ic menu it boasts a great leather, carpentry and jewellery. shaded terrace where you Capileira. Run by the lo- cal mayor, Paco Lopez, it There are also lots of paintings can unwind to the sounds and photographs. of reggae or enjoy the regu- has a great shady garden with superb views. Even A Site of Cultural Interest since lar entertainment on offer 2007 La Taha is one of the most which includes a popular the Prince of Asturias has OASIS OF given his seal of approval protected municipalities in Spain and one of the few to manage TRANQUILITY: after he dropped in a few should look out for homely local, home-cooked food. Centre of Pitres years ago. Estacion 4, one of the fin- Just down the hill in Pam- to implement an environmen- Nearby, you might also want tal management system (ISO and women hard at est restaurants in the re- paneira you should also defi- work to hunt out Casa Ibero, par- gion. Tucked away in the nitely look out for the highly 14001), making it a truly ‘green ticularly in winter, when the winding streets this hidden recommended Ruta de Mul- region’. charming dining room is jewel has an intimate set- hacen, which has great local warm with a roaring fire. ting and is perfect for a ro- food and some wonderful Nearby in Bubion you mantic dinner. It excels in views from its terrace.

Map of the Alpujarras 16 the olive press - July 28 - August 10, 2011 www.theolivepress.es