vol. 3 Issue 9
Editor-in-Chief DEEPAK MOHINDRA JANUARY 2015 Editor CONTENTS ILA SAXENA
Chief Response Editor VINITA PANDEY Copy Editor 14 COVERY STORY VEERESHWAR SOBTI Nasim Manzur Defines the Growth Roadmap for Asst. Editor-Technical tusshar kumar the Leather Industry
Assistant Manager - Marketing & Advertising Subir Kumar 20 BUYER BLOG Subscription Enquiry CJ International to now source linen heavy knits RANI MAHENDRU and chiffon blouses [email protected]
Creative Team RAJ KUMAR CHAHAL 22 Exporter insight PEEUSH JAUHARI Desh Garments... How has the pioneer guarded SATYAPAL BISHT 14 its fort? Photo Editor Syed Nasim Manzur, Managing Director Apex, JITENDER MEERWAL Footwear and President, Footwear Manufacturers Value-added denim business strategies unplugged & Exporters Association of Bangladesh (LFMEAB) Operation Director with Noize Jeans MAYANK MOHINDRA 01962098754 28 Bangladesh canvas Publisher & Managing Director RENU MOHINDRA Meek Sweaters plans new unit Energypac Fashion to invest US $ 5 million in 2015 Head Office Apparel Resources Private Limited B-32, South Extension-1, 30 BUSINESS EXCHANGE New Delhi-110 049 Apparel Summit... A fulfilling image building Phone: 91-11-47390000, 24602283 Fax: 91-11-24604597 exercise E-mail: [email protected]; [email protected] Web associate: www.apparelresources.com 40 RESOURCE centre 24 UNI Asia Associates focusing on printing solutions Printing Ask Advertising Aids Pvt. Ltd. Anurag S Chauhan, Managing Director, r-pac banking on RFID tags as the next game Noize Jeans 88, DSIDC, Okhla Indl. Area, Phase-1, changer New Delhi-110 020 Phone : 26816824 Lectra to capitalize on predictive maintenance for future growth ------
Subscribe to 48 TECh management Apparel Online Bangladesh at How to Choose a Lean Consultant? www.apparelresources.com OR 52 wORLD WRAP mail at Search for comfort ... Yoga pants and gym shirts [email protected] ' ' for details. hit the streets as mainstream clothing
30 56 TRENDS 2015 Apparel Summit 2014 Key Looks A/W ’15-16
6 Apparel Online Bangladesh | JANUARY 2015
EDITORIAL
The year 2014 was a time of retrospection for the industry followed by consolidation, and 2015 marks the beginning of a journey to conquer the ambitious target of US $ 50 billion exports by 2021, an apt target to commemorate the 50 years of Independence. Can we as an enterprising nation do it… I have a strong feeling that we can! And when I go through the pages of Apparel Online for 2014, I see enough commitment from the industry, the Government and even the buyers to reach or even better the target… The proactive industry is a willing partner to change and adapt, as one can see how fast the industry adopted to become compliant and moved on without a break to continue serving the world retailers and brands… Apparel Online brought to you the views of Rob Ways, ED, Accord and Rabin Misbah, MD, Alliance in one dynamic article… What is most interesting is not the fact that both are impressed with the way the industry is coming forward to cooperate, but the fact that finally it is out in the open that in reality less than 2% of the factories in Bangladesh actually pose a real threat to worker safety… I am sure besides bringing cheer to the industry it will also make buyers more comfortable to work with Bangladesh and even increase their stakes. Apparel Online also took on the Minister of Textile & Jute, Md. Emaz Uddin Pramanik, in a one-o-one interview, and to the delight of all, he emphatically declared support to the industry highlighting that the Government was not only looking at incentives but was keen to work on issues that could facilitate business including backward integration to strengthen the foundations of the garment industry. Through our pages, we also put the spotlight on the core growth products of Bangladesh – denim, sweaters and knits – all central to the growth strategy of the country. There is much more that is expected from these categories and I am sure the existing and new players will contribute significantly to achieve the target set by the Government. What has also been highlighted in the pages of Apparel Online is the subtle, but strong shift towards newer categories like lingerie and winter jackets… both highly technical products that require technology intervention and trained manpower which is yet not perceived as Bangladesh’s strength… But mark my word, the players who are entering these segments are not only committed, but are pumping in investments to ensure that nothing goes wrong. The signs are all there to meet the target and we promise to continue in our quest to bring some newer perspectives in every issue for the industry… The October issue had a very current take on the challenges and probable solutions for setting up of a successful and safe multistoried factory. After the Rana Plaza incident, the industry is not only listening but receptive to building norms and suggestions from experts… that is exactly what we aimed at and the positive feedback suggests that we hit the bull’s eye. How can I forget the fun-filled but very purposeful issue, featuring 13 young Turks of the industry who not only have taken it upon themselves to grow their companies but are very positive and enthusiastic of the opportunities that are present in the current global scenario… can Bangladesh falter with such a determined lot at the helm… In our next issue of Apparel Online, we will carry a re-cap of all these interesting articles and many more. Wishing all my Readers a Happy, Safe and Bountiful New Year!
Deepak Mohindra Editor-in-Chief
8 Apparel Online Bangladesh | JANUARY 2015
mindtree
m ndtree LeadingDiscussionsi In what areas and aspects do you feel Middle Management in an apparel factory needs training? How many times in a year do you sponsor your Middle Management to attend workshops on management? What is your yearly budget for training initiatives?
Shah Adeeb Chowdhury, these workers can be utilized I think middle management in Director, Evince Group properly and effectively. Ability apparel factory needs training in Being a garment manufacturer, to communicate efficiently following areas and aspects: we need to motivate and train with buyer’s technical For Productivity Improvement: our mid-management technical representatives, so as to work Training on 5S, 7 Waste, Lean personnel to spot advanced collectively and optimize Management, Efficiency manufacturing procedures/ productivity is also important Improvement, Quality visit various machinery for the middle management. Control, Alter Control, TQM, exhibitions/communicate with We encourage our mid- Team Building, and JIT; For various machinery suppliers management to participate Maintenance: Machine and and bring in new advanced in workshops sponsored by Electrical Equipment Checking manufacturing techniques, so our respective customers, or and Maintenance with calendar. that we can systematically phase suggested as beneficial by For Housekeeping: Clean out traditional manufacturing our customers. This has no and Tidy Floor and Hygienic methods, while replacing them limited time-frame and is rather Environment; For Compliance: with cost-efficient techniques dependent on the frequency Fire Training & Drill, Emergency and machinery that produces a of such workshops being Evacuation, Compliance finer product. conducted. As a company, Requirement on Electrical The mid-management needs we have already invested System, etc; For Commercial: to be trained to efficiently and US $ 10,000 for a 4 year mid- Export Import Procedure; effectively communicate with the management training program. For Merchandising: Costing, workers and deliver results within We have also periodically Consumption, Pricing and a short period of turnaround invested in mid-management for SCM: In-time In-house of time, when new production training programs in the factory, Backward Linkage and systems are implemented. They which have been conducted Timely Shipment. also need to be trained to spot by professional trainers. The We always arrange in-house efficient and talented workers training programs conducted training for our employees on the production floor, so that have covered all departments, around the year for which we from IE to stores to the packing department.
Humayun Rashid, Managing Director & CEO, Energypac Fashion Training has the greatest and most sustainable impact on the apparel industry. The emerging issues that factories are now
Shah Adeeb Chowdhury facing are the shortage of skilled Humayun Rashid workforce, demand for fast “We encourage our turnaround times, decreasing “We always arrange mid-management to margins, high turnover, and low in-house training for our participate in workshops awareness of workers for their employees around the sponsored by our year for which we have respective customers, or rights and responsibilities. a fully equipped training suggested as beneficial Each of these issues leads to room and an experienced by our customers.” decrease in productivity and trainer with an IE factory performance. background.”
12 Apparel Online Bangladesh | JANUARY 2015 mindtree
have a fully equipped training organization. The companies can Cross Industry – varied industry room and an experienced fall or face huge problems due to can still interact and share their trainer with an Industrial misleading middle management experience and learning. Engineering (IE) background. which is the critical link between Each Department Head should Question We also hire qualified trainers the top management and the first be a good HR. Next, the who have many years of workers. It’s very important that HOD should be a Trainer and BGMEA has declaredmind itstree experience and expertise in they take responsibilities and Mentor – to continuously train ambitious plan to reach the garment industry from feel that they are accountable and groom his team. Rotation outside. In our annual training for any shortfall. It is indeed very the export target of US of staff – cross functioning $ 50 billion by 2021... the calendar, we plan all the earlier vital for the middle management can give you many surprises. mentioned training modules 50th anniversary of the to go for training in various areas A merchandiser can give the for our middle management by like work study, line balancing, accounts department a lot of nation’s Independence. Do identifying their key training human resource management, inputs on costing. you think that the target is needs. Next year, we are cost calculation, wastage control, achievable? If yes, what will Production personnel can planing to send our team to Sri organizational behaviour, quality be the growth drivers? If no, impart product (ion) knowledge Lanka, Cambodia, and Vietnam management, etc. I strongly what factors in your view for training in production, to merchandisers; a fabric believe in training of the middle would become hindrance in compliance, maintenance, management and invest in the sourcing person can look at the etc. Our annual budget for same. I sponsor twice a year and problems faced by production attaining the same? training for the next year is ask my middle management team because of fabric flaws. around US $ 100,000. to attend workshops on In one of my past organizations, Be a part of our latest discussions... Post your comments on www.apparelresources.com We strongly believe that management and leadership I started a training program – training is a continuous process building. My yearly budget for ‘Training by Interaction’. The and by providing training to training initiatives varies from US response was quite good. In fact, our middle management we $ 1,300 to US $ 3,000. I made all the participants ‘pay’ will find an optimal solution for the program – a nominal fee. in building the capacity of our Piyush Vyas, COO, The same fee was used to serve labour force and strengthen our BD Designs Pvt. Ltd. tea and snacks. The training time overall business performance. What we lack is the management was at the end of office hours. and managers training in all The atmosphere was sharing M. M. Nazrul Islam, disciplines. Continuous training knowledge and no seniority Dy Managing Director, is required, but the question in the training sessions. All Manvill Styles is, do we have management enjoyed learning and it was a Middle management is modules – suited for our wonderful experience. No cost the heart of a company’s industry; which will help to to company in terms of money operations, and is instrumental improve the skills, aptitude, and time. Who gained... both the in earning profits for the common sense of our middle employees and the employer. management. It is very common to find a senior doing the job of a junior and taking pride in doing extra work. This clearly shows lack of training in both the senior and junior category. Learning is a continuous process. Life-long Learning and at the same time Un-Learning is also important. Learning can be done through: Inter- M. M. Nazrul Islam Piyush Vyas department sessions – though “I sponsor twice a year it may sound like non-related “In one of my past and ask my middle activities. Intercompany – even organizations, I started management to attend competition, if we open up and a training program – workshops on management ‘Training by Interaction’. and leadership building.” collaborate with our friends The response was quite (competition); we can share good. In fact I made all the knowledge and experience, participants ‘pay’ for the thereby upgrading the skills. program – a nominal fee.”
JANUARY 2015 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 13 coverStory
hough USA and Europe trend,” elucidates Nasim, who are the biggest markets believes that by selling leather for footwear, but for to other footwear manufacturing As an industrial manufacturing TBangladesh, Japan is countries, Bangladesh is selling hub, Bangladesh has continued the biggest market as of now, and its advantage. With nearly 200 footwear brands like Timberland, its romance with apparel and tanneries, Bangladesh satisfies Esprit, Tamaris and Hugo 90% of the demands of its textiles, a dependence which Boss are being sourced from footwear sector and produces has been questioned by many the country. “If you look at the more than 220 million square feet transition in the leather exports economists and businessmen, of leather hides, of which 64% is of Bangladesh in the last five cowhides and 33% is goat skin. since the country has access years, more than 70% was export to some of the most protected of leather (crust and finished The only thing holding Bangladesh back in the global markets and economies because leather) and rest was of leather products, but today more than arena is the relatively small scale of trade benefits endowed on it as 60% is finished product such as companies, except Apex, which a Least Developed Country (LDC). footwear. This is a very healthy manufactures 22,000 pairs of Nasim Manzur Defines the Growth Roadmap for the Leather Industry
As of now, besides apparel, pharmaceutical and to a smaller degree, the footwear and leather sectors are taking the advantage of such benefits in exports. The Footwear Manufacturers & Exporters Association of Bangladesh (LFMEAB) has a total of 120 members, out of which 110 are footwear manufacturers and exporters. Finished leather and leather goods exports from the country crossed the US $ 1.1 billion mark recently, out of which, footwear accounts for US $ 600 million, but the industry still has a long way to go before making an impressionable mark on the global footwear and leather sourcing map. In an exclusive conversation with Apparel Online, Syed Nasim Manzur, Managing Director, Apex Footwear and President, Footwear Manufacturers & Exporters Association of Bangladesh (LFMEAB), defines the roadmap for Bangladesh’s nascent leather goods sector to be noticed on the global Syed Nasim Manzur, Managing Director, Apex Footwear and President, Footwear sourcing map. Manufacturers & Exporters Association of Bangladesh (LFMEAB)
14 Apparel Online Bangladesh | JANUARY 2015 coverStory
leather shoes daily. While the next big company, Fortuna Leather Craft is producing just 8,000 pairs In 2013, China exported of shoes per day and after these US $ 48 billion worth two companies, the size of the of footwear, while units drops drastically as most of the factories are one line units, Vietnam exported US catering to the small boutique $ 8.4 billion, India buyers and retailers based in exported US $ 2.4 Japan. “The rest of the industry billion, and Bangladesh is stuck in a catch-22 situation exported US $ 600 as big buyers will not come till million of footwear to the time people have developed the same is not possible in India has been given 1,000 hectares the world. scales, and manufacturers and Bangladesh, as most of the of land as it has promised US will not develop scales until land is privately held. Moreover, $ 4 billion investment in the The largest footwear the buyers assure business,” the Chinese Government has coming 10 years,” shares Nasim. bemoans Nisam. importer, United States incentivized and driven the Under the African Growth and imported 2.3 billion Today, China exports every 2 Opportunity Act (AGOA), Ethiopia manufacturing sector, because pairs of shoes in 2013, out of 3 pairs of footwear sold in they have realized that with such is rapidly making its mark on the valued at US $ 25.3 the world, controlling 67% of the a large population, people can global footwear sourcing map world market through more than only be employed with a thriving and Chinese companies such as billion. The European 200 factories, each making more manufacturing sector and not the Huajian Group has invested Union (EU) imported 1.1 than 20,000 pairs per day, which by high-end technology-driven billions of dollars in the country billion pairs of footwear is equivalent to Apex’s capacity. industries like IT. for manufacturing footwear. valued at Euro 10.5 In India, only three companies “I did a survey of cost of doing billion, with Germany, have such huge capacities Growth beyond Footwear business in Bangladesh, Vietnam France, Italy and UK and despite a large bovine and Cambodia, the results speak Leather industry has always being the biggest population they are struggling been in the eye of the storm for at US $ 6 billion exports, of for themselves,” says Nasim. The consumers. The third survey showed that while the being one of the most polluting which footwear accounts for US manufacturing sectors. Tanneries largest market, Japan $ 2.4 billion, whereas Vietnam, cost of land in Bangladesh is US imported US $ 5 billion $ 350 per sq. metre, the same is in Bangladesh are concentrated which has no domestic bovine worth of footwear in US $ 3 per sq. metre in Cambodia in the Hazaribagh region of population, exported leather Dhaka and relocation drives have and US $ 100 per sq. metre in 2013 . footwear worth US $ 8.4 billion been going on for the past 25 Vietnam. Further, the cost of a in 2013. Another major player years, to shift the industry to a 5-star hotel room in Dhaka is US A square foot of in the footwear segment is leather park which would have a $ 330, while a similar room would finished leather from Taiwan, and Taiwanese footwear CETP. “The Government has done cost US $ 100 each in Vietnam Bangladesh fetches manufacturers are on the prowl a good job of allocating space and Cambodia. The travel time US $ 3, so a hide of to set-up footwear factories and more than 170 companies from the airport to city in Dhaka in low-wage countries. “All have submitted their plans to finished leather will is 2 hours to 4 hours, depending Taiwanese companies, Apache in shift, moreover, the construction fetch US $ 9. But if it is on traffic, whereas it would be India and Pou Chen Corporation work is going on in full swing. converted into a pair of around 20 minutes in Cambodia and Stella Shoes, the two largest Once this shift happens, we shoes, the average FOB and 30 minutes in Vietnam. “All footwear manufacturers of the would be able to work with of this adds to the cost of doing would be US $ 19. world, have set-up factories in high-end brands such as Coach business in a country and goes on Bangladesh,” informs Nasim. and Timberland, who presently to define the preferences of the The quality of leather There are many reasons why do not allow us to use domestic foreign buyers,” reasons Nasim. in Bangladesh is Vietnam and China have been leather because it does not come adversely affected by successful in pulling in major No country can replicate the from a sustainable tannery,” investments to build scales in capacities of China, but with explains Nasim, who defines hand flaying due to footwear, as opposed to India and the Chinese domestic market ‘sustainable leather’ as a growth the Islamic rituals of Bangladesh. While India’s labour growing and the rising labour area for the industry. Bangladesh Qurbani, during which laws are discouraging towards wages in the country, another is known for goat leather, which goats are slaughtered large scale manufacturing, door of opportunities has opened is suitable for making bags, keeping the focus on Bangladesh is struggling with an for Bangladesh and India. But wallets and footwear, but globally, maximizing the meat image issue wherein customers one needs to be wary about the car upholstery is the growing content, cutting the hide are not ready for a ‘Made in competition from unexpected segment which requires leather Bangladesh’ footwear. Also, sources. “Ethiopia has already from bigger animals such as cows very close to the skin, investors can go into China and gained substantial amount and buffaloes, available in South which downgrades at Vietnam and ask for hectares of of footwear manufacturing America and to some extent even least 20% of the total land for tanneries and factories, business with Chinese and in Pakistan. “Nowadays even mid- leather hides produced and they will get it in a matter of Indian companies setting up segment cars, which are the most by Bangladesh. weeks, because most of the land manufacturing plants. There is in demand, would have leather belongs to the Government, but one company in Ethiopia which upholstery,” concludes Nasim.
JANUARY 2015 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 15 coverStory
APEX Footwear – A Case Study of Success
ith an export turnover of was manufacturing wet blue leather, salaried man’s shoe, a black leather US $ 120 million and daily the most basic form of leather as a raw shoe, sourced in huge quantities and W manufacturing capacity material and soon realized that it was in just three styles. But the period of 22,000 pairs of shoes, Apex imperative to move up the value chain lasted only for three years as in 1995, Footwear’s growth story holds the for sustenance in the business. the Japanese economy plunged, an key to a new and potential product Equivalent to greige fabric in event recalled as the ‘Japanese Bubble category of leather footwear for apparel business – crust leather, an Burst’. “We did try and make the Bangladesh to venture into. intermediate for a finished product, transition from formals to casual but Apex was established in 1976, when was the next growth area for Apex it was too fast for us and we could Manzur Elahi, Chairman of the and capabilities for the same were see the market shrinking on us,” adds company, successfully bid and bought a added in the early 1980s in technical Nasim. Just five years into footwear near-defunct tannery for US $ 100,000 collaboration with an Italian company. exports and manufacturing, Apex was and later renamed it Apex Tannery. It was in the late 1980’s that Apex in a bind for the second time. The reason why Manzur Elahi bought added capabilities for manufacturing With no other option left, the the tannery was, to cater to his French finished leather, which can be directly company decided to venture into buyers of leather hides and upgrade sold to footwear manufacturers. Europe, where also the company from a trader to a manufacturer. At “Once you start manufacturing faced resistance as no one was that point of time, France was a very finished leather, you need to follow the willing to work with a one line shoe big manufacturer of leather goods international trends and know what is factory. So the expansion became and Bangladesh was known for the in demand to be able to sell the product imminent and along with shoes, Apex leather of Black Bengal Goat found to global buyers. The quantities per also started manufacturing soles, in the region, which is suitable for style are small, the variations are insoles, counter and other auxiliary manufacturing high-heeled footwear. too much but the margins are high,” components, which were previously “The business of trading hides and elaborates Nasim. The rapid growth being imported. “Although we were skins is like trading raw cotton and the of the company would not have been able to work with the European prices are also very volatile. Hence, possible in the absence of capital for market, the business was volatile in to ensure the business from these technological upgradation, for which terms of the quantities offered every fluctuations, we bought a tannery,” the company went public as early season,” says Nasim. That is when shares Syed Nasim Manzur, the son as in 1979. “We pioneered the first Apex met Adelchi, an Italian footwear of Manzur Elahi. As a tannery, Apex convertible debenture in the country manufacturer who was in the process and with this, the family ownership of off-shoring its manufacturing. While melted down to shareholding and then Apex manufactured for them, it also we focussed on hiring professionals took the advantage of their product Apex Footwear’s growth chronology for running the business, becoming development and manufacturing a family-managed business from a capabilities. This beginning culminated family-run business,” recalls Nasim. Time Business Tie-up Movement in the value chain into Apex Adelchi, a joint venture, Period It was visit to TATA Group’s footwear which continued to be fruitful till 2013, Early 1970s Collaboration with None factory in India, which became a post which Apex decided to part ways French buyers for source of inspiration for setting up a with Adelchi and developed in-house leather trading similar factory in Dhaka with a daily capabilities for product development, 1976 Establishment of Apex Commence manufacturing of wet production capacity of 1,000 pairs due to rising cost of sample and Tannery blue leather of footwear. What started with 150 product development in Italy.
1980 None Upgraded to manufacturing crust people, 25 years ago, has grown to “Now we have product development leather 8,000 people producing 22,000 pairs a centres in Taiwan and Dhaka, with a Late 1980s None Started manufacturing finished day and a hugely successful product global marketing wing managed by 8 leather development capability. “We work with employees, handling specific regions 1990 None Started manufacturing leather 100 retailers such as JCPenney and of the world,” shares Nasim. Five shoes Macy’s in Europe, Japan and USA, and years ago Apex forged a joint 1991 Tie-up with Japanese Started exporting salaried man’s footwear brands like Hush Puppies,” venture with Taiwan’s Green Land retailer Marutomi shoes to Japan says Nasim, who joined the company Group, which makes shoes for the 1996 Started working for La Got the first breakthrough into the around the same time. Nuova Adelchi of Italy European market export market and established When Apex charted out to manufacture 2000 Setup Gallerie Apex Commenced footwear retail chain Blue Ocean Footwear. It has 4,000 in Bangladesh footwear, it received technical guidance people producing close to 2 million 2006 JV with La Nuova Established product development from Marutomi, the second largest pairs of women’s shoes annually for Adelchi of Italy in Italy footwear retailer in the Japanese customers like Esprit and Germany’s 2009 JV with Taiwan’s Green Established Blue Ocean Footwear, market, because of Bangladesh’s Tamaris. Apex Group holds 51% of the Land Group another export-oriented unit Preferential Market Access to Japan. partnership and would be doubling the 2013 End JV with Adelchi Setup product development centres With this tie-up, Apex found its manufacturing capacity of the plant in in Dhaka and Taiwan first niche in footwear exports – the the coming years.
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AAFA assures business from US, but conditions apply Representing the largest congress of apparel and footwear brands in the US with a global footprint, Nate Herman, Vice President – International Trade, American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) in an exclusive interaction with Apparel Online, highlights the preferences of AAFA members and opportunities for Bangladesh in the footwear and leather segment to be able to cater to the US market.
AO: Do you see a synergy between “Presently China Bangladesh as a footwear and leather manufactures 80% exporting nation and opportunities of the footwear in USA? retailed in USA, 10% Nate: I think there is a lot of growth is manufactured by opportunity for footwear in Bangladesh Vietnam and the and a number of US brands have already remaining 10% share is tested the market, and some are even sourcing from Bangladesh. This number manufactured jointly by is expected to grow further because of the Italy, India, Indonesia, availability of leather as a raw material Brazil, Bangladesh and in the country and all the auxiliary Cambodia. But with industries for footwear manufacturing. brands and retailers Due to the presence of a thriving RMG looking at reducing industry in the country, the leather sector their dependence on is endowed with the infrastructure and China, Bangladesh the existing factories are well-designed and equipped to manufacture footwear. is ranked high on The opportunity is also magnified due to the list of possible the duty-free access that Bangladesh has options to the Chinese to some of the most protected markets manufacturing such as Japan, Canada, etc. juggernaut.” Nate Herman, Vice President – International Trade, American Apparel & AO: With wages rising in China, Footwear Association (AAFA) which is a major manufacturing base for the US, should Bangladesh be positive about gaining business from AO: What do you think about the the Dhaka Apparel Summit. We have the country? Government’s relocation drive to shift also interacted with the Footwear Nate: Presently China manufactures tanneries from Hazaribagh to a leather Manufacturers & Exporters Association of 80% of the footwear retailed in USA, 10% park? Would that open up market for Bangladesh and are looking at doing some is manufactured by Vietnam and the American buyers? programs with Apex Footwear, the biggest remaining 10% share is manufactured Nate: The pollution caused by the exporter of footwear from the country. jointly by Italy, India, Indonesia, Brazil, tanneries of Hazaribagh is a major concern AO: Besides footwear, what all Bangladesh and Cambodia. But in recent for the US buyers. But the Government’s products are AAFA members looking to developments not only have the wages initiative to shift all the tanneries from source from Bangladesh? risen drastically in China, but also the the region to a much safer and planned Government of the country does not want Nate: We are looking at not only sourcing location might be too ambitious and it to further grow footwear manufacturing, leather goods like wallets and hand bags might give rise to another Hazaribagh, if as they are looking at more lucrative from Bangladesh, but also products such the process is hastened. Having said that, industries. With brands and retailers as backpacks, luggage and other such the direction is right and it will give a lot of looking at reducing their dependence travel accessories. Although the GSP to confidence to the international buyers. on China, Bangladesh is ranked high Bangladesh from the US is suspended on the list of possible options to the AO: Are you looking at doing any training as of now, but we are trying to reinstate Chinese manufacturing juggernaut. programs in the country to educate the the same, and once it is done, we would But Bangladesh faces competition from industry on your required norms? commence sourcing fashion accessory Cambodia and Ethiopia, particularly for Nate: We are looking at doing and items from the country, and also add the leather footwear. attending more conferences such as product category to the GSP policy.
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BUYERBLOG
CJ International TO NOW SOURCE linen, heavy knits and chiffon blouses
A Swedish trading 10 years ago Roshan was aspiring to set up his own house, C Jahn AB enterprise and incidentally during the same time C Jahn AB was looking for a Bangladeshi partner. has a unique model Coincidence of needs brought the two parties of operations in five together and hence began the Bangladeshi chapter countries in which it for C Jahn. Now, CJI works for Swedish brands operates. “Simply go Gina Tricot and The Stadium, German brands like into a joint venture The New Yorker and Tom Tailor, US-based Esprit and few retailers like Alliance and Elvis. Among partnership with a these, Gina Tricot with 150 stores across Europe local person,” says represents 30 per cent of buying of CJI. Roshan Withanage, Backed with a multi-pronged plan for the coming Managing Director, fiscal, CJI looks at growing by at least 20 per CJ International cent, the thrust would be a vertically integrated who has previously unit with an investment of US $ 5 million. The new unit will be in addition to the existing design worked with the studio and Narayanganj-based 500 sewing Sri Lankan giant MAS machine capacity of the buying house. Holdings. C Jahn AB The thrust is also on working with sustainable which began as a fibres. “Gina Tricot is looking at becoming 100 per home furnishings cent sustainable by 2025,” informs Roshan. The designing and buying house has successfully supported Gina Tricot’s endeavours till now and as a result, all sourcing company in the light knits sourced for the brand are made 1940 in Sweden, with of organic cotton for the past five years. In order time grew to establish to add variety to the brand’s range, CJI is now offices in Bangladesh, looking at sourcing linen garments too. Continuing with the Pursuit, Roshan says, “If you look at Roshan Withanage, Managing Director, CJ International Pakistan, India, China H&M’s range, they are carrying light knit from All the international units of the group run as and Hong Kong Bangladesh in the lower priced range as well. independent organizations and cater to different in partnership with The challenge is to find that product at the right product categories. For instance, while the China local people. price.” Meanwhile, the buying house has decided office handles value-added home textiles, the Indian CJ International (CJI) to go a step further and introduce linen blends operations source small volumes of printed blouses like linen-Dominique cotton and other fibres like and basic home textiles, whereas Pakistan handles – the Bangladeshi Tencel for knits as well as woven. arm of C Jahn AB – large volumes of basic products due to its GSP status. 60 per cent of products sourced by CJI are high- is buying apparels fashion sweaters (jacquard and novelty yarns) worth US $ 50 million while the rest comprises of products such as light The critical bottlenecks of working in Bangladesh while the total buying knits, denims, oxford shirts, T-shirts, caps, socks when compared to Sri Lanka are obviously of C Jahn AB is and home textiles. The buying house now plans untrained manpower, erratic electricity supply to source blouses in chiffon and other woven and poor road infrastructure. But all of these are US $ 150 million. fabrics as well. overridden by the resilience of Bangladesh. “In Despite product quantities being smaller than any other country, Rana Plaza would have had a what a Bangladeshi manufacturer expects but huge impact. Bangladesh, however, did not come with an experience of around a decade, CJI to a standstill and it emerged even stronger,” has found factories that can deliver such small avers Roshan. quantities. “It does imply higher FOBs. However, The market continues to be tough for everyone since we have managed to build a source base of 15 the buyer keeps dropping the FOB by 10 cents every factories,” informs Roshan. The names vary from year. Roshan, however, predicts that the situation is RMM (where 50% is booked for CJI), JL Fashions now going to change with China getting expensive. (80%) and Fakir Fashions (10%). Understandable The shift of sourcing pattern can be seen as CJI has enough, being a Scandinavian organization the already made its first shipment to China for Jack & factories manufacturing for CJI have to adhere Jones. “I would say, by early next year the FOBs will strictly to the CSR standards of CSCC and BSCI. start to look up,” concludes Roshan.
20 Apparel Online Bangladesh | JANUARY 2015 exporterinsight
t was imminent for Desh while maximizing my efficiencies. Garments to go for Following that it progresses to be I liquidation or have a more conscious of factory’s impact partner since the factory on environment and then perhaps I was based in Chittagong, while will go for value-added garments,” the Quader family was based in she explains. Dhaka, complicating the logistics Currently in the first phase, the and operations of the factory. But About 36 years ago, first step for Vidiya was to set up an it was by chance or destiny that at Industrial Engineering department Md Noorul Quader, the same time Vidiya had returned and get rid of lethargic systems. “As Abdul Majid Chowdhary as a barrister, qualified from Inns of opposed to the Production Manager, and their team of 130 Court School of Law, London. She picking up a shirt and recommending had her own premeditations over Bangladeshi operators a target empirically, our IE team the future of Desh Garments and to establishes scientific targets,” Vidiya and management trainees carry forward her father’s lineage in says. Naturally, since these targets travelled to South Korea exclusivity. Vidiya has been heading are the basis of all estimations from for six months of training Desh Garments for six years now. manpower requirement to efficiency in Daewoo’s state-of- “I was much younger back then. and productivity, a leaner factory has the-art factories. Upon Without realizing what I was getting emerged. Subsequently, excessive into, I got into it,” she recalls. As manpower, generally helpers were return, Noorul set up Desh the seemingly simple facade of the eliminated and automats replaced Garments – Bangladesh’s first export-oriented garment manufacturing unit. Simultaneously, this expedition also Desh Garments... How has the pioneer guarded its fort?
catapulted the apparel manufacturing sector to the centre-stage of the Bangladeshi economy. Vidiya Amrit Khan, Director, Desh Garments and BGMEA has been heading the company for six years now The splendid story of the pioneer, who got it right the first time, garment manufacturing industry old machines. Following this, the does make one wonder unfolded, Vidiya became aware of the manpower requirement per line about Desh Garment’s challenges that were to be overcome. dropped by 30 per cent and the current whereabouts. Apart from the fact that Desh productivity and efficiency rose. Garments had weathered multiple Apparel Online traced the During this period, the factory has storms of banking, quota, political expanded from 6 lines to 10 shirts company and got to talk unrest, compliance and wage hikes, lines. “I am very minimalistic. I don’t to Vidiya Amrit Khan, the company was yet to upgrade hold several production meetings the vibrant, dynamic and its infrastructure and management either!” she tells on how she young Director of Desh principles. “Considering all this, sustained the progress for this phase. Desh Garments didn’t grow as it Garments and BGMEA should have,” says Vidiya. Hence, Vidiya has now set her eyes on and the daughter of Late Vidiya roped in a German consultant ‘right first time’ quality principle. Md Noorul Quader… and a one-man legend as Vidiya “Quality comes from the workers, calls him. Now Vidiya has the it doesn’t come from the fact that growth path charted out for Desh an inspector has caught a defect Garments. “It begins with minimizing 10 processes later and then sent the cost of what I am producing it back for repair,” she explains.
22 Apparel Online Bangladesh | JANUARY 2015 exporterinsight
competencies should go beyond is a 26-27 per cent shortage low price points and match of middle management in the China’s by now. That means country and the tendency to shorter lead times, in-house switch jobs for a few Takas is fashion design teams and taking quite prevalent,” she admits. a deep plunge into high-fashion Very sure that the industry is garments. Else we stand to lose ready to jump start the second our momentum to Cambodia, phase, Vidiya asserts the Vietnam, Indonesia, Myanmar need of sustainability oriented and even Ethiopia because of manufacturing practices in the its business, not philanthropy. face of constantly rising gas Nobody will give me a relaxation and diesel prices. “Solar panels if the power rates are high or are bound to bring down the if the Government is unstable,” electricity cost for the factory elaborates Vidiya. and I would definitely like to In Vidiya’s opinion, Government’s install them in the near future,” From the archives... Noorul Quader (extreme left) – The Father of Bangladesh's Garment Industry, with his support in setting up supervisor she tells. workers at the shop floor training centres as CSR activities Nevertheless, Desh Garments is and a decentralized Dhaka, will set for a two-fold increase in its Vidiya believes that this mindset practically spend the entire day give this process of change the capacities for the coming year. must be adopted by the middle interacting with the operators,” much needed push. Meanwhile, “I want the shirts that come out management in the country now. Vidiya avers. According to Vidiya has combated these issues of my factory to be the best ones “Our women have a natural Vidiya, it is crucial that the in her factory by maintaining that come from Bangladesh,” flair for sewing. The focus middle management is competent a close relationship with her affirms Vidiya. Simultaneously, should now shift from operators’ enough to troubleshoot and workforce. “As an owner, I the company will also be skill development to training motivate an operator to work communicate directly with my exploring the domestic market. the middle management as efficiently and make them realize workers to keep them abreast “I would like to do it differently. psychoanalysts besides having that overtime is not how they of these principles and other What will be the difference? For the right communication skills will earn more money. “Our developments and expansions. now, I will keep mum over my as they are the people who industry is 35 years old now. Our It is a constant struggle as there plans for that,” she concludes.
JANUARY 2015 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 23
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“When I first came to Bangladesh in 2012, it immediately struck me that it is a good place to start a business of my own,” says Anurag S Chauhan, Managing Director, Noize Jeans. Originally, Ghazipur-based Salek Textiles was providing Anurag’s India- based trading company with Value-added denim business strategies unplugged with Noize Jeans denim fabric since 2010. He would further source the garmenting from India and distribute the final product under his own label ‘Noize Anurag S Chauhan, Managing Director, Noize Jeans Jeans’ in India. It was in 2012 that Anurag got into a joint he joint venture proposed system is dependent on cheap that a garmenting factory space and disciplined venture agreement with Salek Tunit must be set up in manpower and both of these and since then, the enterprise Bangladesh. Consequently, the components are very expensive competence of Salek in fabrics, in Bangladesh,” explains has grown many folds to Noize Jeans’ consumer base Anurag. In order to set-up a become an exporter and a in India and the benefits of factory that did not repeat retailer with an international in-house garment production these fallacies, Anurag visited capacities were brought under Italian factories where his presence. In an interesting one umbrella, facilitating opinion of fully automated tete-a-tete with Apparel Online, vertically integration of Noize factories was reinforced. Jeans in an impressively short “Clearly, it was a onetime Anurag talks about the Indian period of time. investment with high savings market and future of denim The thrust for Anurag was in the long run,” he explains. always on fit, fabric and wash, The company has specialized market in Bangladesh as an and the joint venture gave him sewing machines from expat turned insider… an opportunity in all these Vibemac, Juki and Brother. areas. Anurag seized the Currently, out of the 4,00,000 opportunity and the first step pieces manufactured per month, he took was to steer clear of only 20,000 pieces are meant China-inspired manpower and for the in-house brand – Noize machine-intensive production Jeans. The rest caters to buyers systems from the garmenting across Spain, Australia, Dubai unit. “Bangladesh has and India like Inditex, Mango, duplicated China’s systems of Just Jeans, RnB, Basics, Max producing one pair of denim and will soon be manufacturing using 64 machines. Such a for Splash as well. “Usually, the
JANUARY 2015 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 25 exporterinsight
bangladeshSnips
VF Corp and IFC grant loan to three garment factories under Alliance finance programme The US-based VF Corporation and IFC have provided loans worth US $ 1.3 million to three Bangladeshi garment factories under the low-cost loan arrangements from Alliance. Arunima Sportswear, Olio Apparels, and Radisson Apparel – are the early beneficiaries of this financing arrangement. VF Corporation has decided to provide a full corporate guarantee up to US $ 10 million, making it possible for IFC to lend at lower interest rates. The amount disbursed will be used to invest in safety upgrades like installation of fire sprinklers, fire doors and detection systems, along with other necessary structural repairs and safety precautions. The funding came after Today, Noize Jeans is pitched as a young fashion brand that targets individuals between 17-30 years of age with fits, member brands of Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety fabrics, and washes of world class quality agreed with the IFC, to facilitate the loans. It is estimated that factory upgrades required are valued at US $ 400 million and the loans will only make US $ 10 million available. Acutely aware of the fact that all companies orders for Noize Jeans are clubbed Apart from the Indian business, may not participate, the Alliance has set aside US $ with large volume orders,” reveals Noize Jeans has reaped significant 2 million to act as collateral to facilitate small loans to Anurag, on how he has managed gains in other destinations as well factories. Meanwhile, the European body of Accord is also to keep the production for Noize with its value-added denims. The considering the IFC loan programme. Jeans profitable despite the small last three years had been about quantities. Anurag’s academic basic denims for Bangladesh background in textile engineering because most of the manufacturers Hamid Fabrics to invest BDT 70 crore and production management of were catering to Walmart, JCP, in setting up yarn dyeing facility apparels continues to guide the Sears, Target, KMart etc., making Hamid Fabrics, a leading manufacturer and exporter of product development operations of the industry realize that working woven fabrics will invest BDT 70 crore to set up a yarn the company. “We often make our with basics and high volumes is dyeing unit with a capacity of producing 15 tonnes of dyed own recommendations to the buyers a rat race worth a few cents here yarn per day to meet the growing demand. With an annual and they appreciate the technical and there. “We have brought the production of 24 million yards of fabric, the company will inputs that they receive from us,” skills required to do value-added also buy 50 Air Jet loom machines to develop the unit that he avers. jeans from Italy, Sri Lanka and will start production in the third quarter of 2015. A subsidiary Catering to India, Turkey. We invested in the of Mahin Group, the company raised BDT 105 crore from a relatively new “Everything infrastructure because public in August, and after the setting up of the unit, it export destination is getting into we know that with will spend rest of the fund to pay bank loans, informed for Bangladesh, comfort fits, and in denims a good wash we Abdullah Al-Mahmud Mahin, Managing Director of Mahin in those days this means that everything is can sell a US $ 7 Group. Hamid produces fabrics like twill, canvas, ribstop, was much like getting into stretch. For men, the product for US herringbone, poplin, dobby, Bedford cord, and matt. a treasure skinny style is coming into fashion; $ 12,” explains Anurag. He hunt without and for ladies, the boyfriend jeans, Shasha Denims eyes 180 per cent however warns a map. which is baggy, is coming back. Six increase in capacity over next 18 months “India’s retail against turning months down the line, in international Shasha Denims, a premier denim manufacturer, is set sector is quite the business market this is what you will be to expand its production capacity by 10,00,000 yards to unorganized. entirely towards seeing, not so sure about 28,00,000 yards in next one-and-a-half years, following the The companies value-added for India though,” predicts regulatory approval in October to raise funds from public. still do not know the productivity Anurag. The company expects to raise BDT 175 crore through how to plan their style offered by these runs the IPO and 88 per cent of the fund will be spent on the and quantity requirements as high productivity expansion project. The balance will be used for partial in advance and rely primarily is crucial for timely return on repayment of bank loans and the rest BDT 2.77 crore for on Bollywood trends for it,” he investment of automats. bearing the expenses of the IPO proceedings. According elaborates about the current market Anurag is optimistic that the denim to Jamal Abdun Naser, Director, Shasha Denim, 25 local of India. Another challenge that business is set to soar in the next makers produce 30 million yards of denim fabrics per Noize had to face was that working two years. “Denim is a huge field month against a monthly demand of 60 million yards. To for Indian market meant no sizing worthy of exploration. It is even sold fulfil the demand, 30-35 million yards of fabrics worth US $ standards were available. However, for US $ 5,000 a pair. So there is a 75 million is imported every month from countries such as since Noize’s target audience is lot you can do with it. Wait till a new China, India and Pakistan. “We are focusing on producing already accustomed to international style comes in the market and we quality denim fabrics so that it helps the local users to be fits, Anurag chose to continue with will again see denim everywhere,” more competitive in the international markets,” he added. the international patterns. he concludes.
26 Apparel Online Bangladesh | JANUARY 2015 bangladeshcanvas
Meek Sweaters plans new unit with fully bangladeshSnips automated machines
New office-bearers at DCCI trictly maintaining its commitment and high-value buyers,” he adds. The new The Dhaka Chamber of following the 3Q policy of Quality first, 60,000 sq. ft. six-storey building has been Commerce and Industry S Quality last and Quality always (QQQ), designed with the latest building codes (DCCI) has elected new Meek Sweaters, operating around 950 and compliance norms. office-bearers for 2015. hand-flat knitting machines, is now putting The trade body has Mannan, who has earlier worked in a up a new factory with fully automated elected Hossain Khaled as knitwear factory and a buying house, has Stoll machines, to meet increasing the President, Humayun knowledge of production as well as of the buyers’ demand. “The decision to set up Rashid as Senior VP and buying side of the business, which has Shoaib Chowdhury as VP. helped him grow his enterprise. Today, Besides this, the Board the 5-year old company is already a good of Directors now have name amongst sweater manufacturers Hossain Aktar, Asif A with a current turnover of US $ 8 million. Chowdhury, Khondakar The vision is to touch a turnover of US Abdul Mottalib, Atiq-e- $ 20 million by 2016. Rabbani, and Osman To achieve reasonable targets in Ghani who will service as a market saturated with sweater Directors for 2015, 2016 manufacturers, Meek Sweaters had to and 2017 terms. Khaled create its own niche, which Mannan did is a BBA graduate from by taking up the challenge of working University of Toledo, for a German catalogue buyer who Ohio and an MBA post- demanded AQL 1.5 quality levels, while graduate from Texas offering an attractive price and good A&M University and is volumes. The company employed no less currently the Chairman than 18 quality inspectors and placed of Bangladesh Finance them at various critical points such as and Investment Company yarn procurement, accessories, knit and City Brokerage Ltd. panel preparation, linking, and post- He is also the Managing washing. “With the quality systems in Director of Anwar place, I’m able to deliver the required Jute Spinning Mills. M.A. Mannan, Managing Director, Meek Sweaters quality, and demand doubles the average Humayun Rashid is the market FOB for our sweaters,” avers MD of Energypac Power a new factory is purely due to my buyers’ Mannan proudly. Generation Ltd. and insistence, as they are now looking at Interestingly, Mannan rewards his Shoaib Chowdhury is the finer gauge sweaters,” says M.A. Mannan, employees for being vigilant of any wrong MD of SS Vision Limited. Managing Director of the company. The doing/malpractice within the company to Gazipur (Tongi)-based company’s biggest prevent/control any incidence of damage. Garment manufacturers buyer is C&A followed by Coolcat, V&D, “I have planted informers in each section partner with German QVC, Klingel, MS Mode, Mim, and Tally and I give them BDT 200 as reward for sustainability initiative WEIJL. “Once this plant is operational every information provided by them,” The German origin (by 2016 end), I’ll be able to cater to more laughingly shares Mannan. Partnership for Sustainable Textiles, established by Dr. Gerd Mueller, has been joined by four Envoy Textiles expects to double its profits in next garment manufacturers. two years DBL Group, Niagara Textiles Ltd., Saiham Knit Composite Ltd. and nvoy Textiles is expecting to double its fabric, and it intends to sell the spinning JMS Holdings which Enet profit to be US $ 7.6 million when its unit’s residual output. have already been spinning unit begins producing yarn in June The company makes 48 million yards of collaborating with GIZ, 2016. Abdus Salam Murshedy, MD of Envoy fabrics annually. “Buyers from Europe the German development informed that the company is putting in US and America are now expressing interest agency and KFW, the $ 30 million to set up the spinning in sourcing more denim products from German development unit at Bhaluka in Mymensingh. The Bangladesh, bypassing China, India, bank, for many years to unit will produce 17,500 tonnes of yarn a Pakistan and Vietnam,” said Murshedy who improve their social and year, which is 30 per cent higher than the is catering to buyers like Walmart, H&M, environmental standards. company’s own demand. Envoy currently JCPenney, GAP, Carrefour, Zara and Next to uses 24,000 tonnes of yarn a year to make mention a few.
28 Apparel Online Bangladesh | JANUARY 2015 JANUARY 2015 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 29 businessexchange
Apparel Summit... A Fulfilling Image Building Exercise
he three-day summit inaugurated quality products, the effort is to rebrand Aimed at branding ‘Bangladesh’ and by Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina, Bangladesh. “Garment business itself who urged the international should be redefined as new things are drawing a road map to reach the export T retailers to increase prices of the happening every day on the global front target of US $ 50 billion by 2021, the 50th garments they buy from Bangladesh, and it will be difficult to achieve the year of the nation’s Independence, the was a big success. Dwelling into the set target with a traditional business Dhaka Summit was a comprehensive strategy for growth, the PM emphasized model. The summit is the first step platform for brainstorming, education on increasing exports to markets which towards building a positive image of and identifying the bottlenecks while have already relaxed the Rules of Origin the country and we want to send a for Bangladeshi textile products, such message that Bangladesh is not a land looking for the solutions. Infrastructure as Europe, Norway, Switzerland and of disasters and natural calamities..., it and high interest rates were identified as Japan. The Prime Minister also shared is a land of opportunities and business,” ‘major challenges’ in reaching the magic some of her Government’s initiatives declared Islam. figure and it was also stressed that to to help in reaching the US $ 50 billion Being the second largest apparel achieve the target, the garment industry target when the country will celebrate exporter after China, and which shipped its 50th anniversary of Independence. needs Government’s support. BGMEA garments worth US $ 24.5 billion in the She declared that besides increasing President, Atiqul Islam played the role last fiscal year, the country now enjoys electricity production, the Government is a 5 per cent share of the global apparel of a moderator, throwing one pertinent looking at building more economic zones business, which is worth US $ 450 billion. question to each of the panellists and a ‘garment village’ in Munshiganj. To grab another 3 per cent share, the which comprised of Bankers, Garment Recalling the past, Atiqul Islam country has to reach the US $ 50 billion Exporters, Heads of International Brands reminisced how the BGMEA used to export target by 2021 when the global & Retailers, Trade Chamber Leaders, organize BATEXPO (Bangladesh Apparel apparel business is expected to stand at Compliance Bodies and above all Tofail and Textile Exposition) to expose US $ 650 billion. “It’s a positive sign to Bangladesh to the global buyers as an go ahead with long-term targets, but the Ahmed, the Commerce Minister, who is a RMG producing and exporting country. question is how to meet the target and key to achieve the dream... Now that Bangladesh is known across what kind of initiatives have been taken the globe as the maker of best and to achieve this ambitious goal. In reality,
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The challenges spelt “The present out by industry stalwarts... infrastructure is The garment exporters who have somehow handling contributed a major portion to the growth of exports of US the country’s GDP voiced their sentiments $ 24 billion but in full vigour. They stressed upon the need to reach US $ 50 for enhancing productivity, lowering interest billion, exponential rates and fixing infrastructure bottlenecks. Kihak Sung, Founder investment in Kihak Sung, Founder & Chairman/CEO, & Chairman/CEO, infrastructure is Youngone Corporation recalled his entry Youngone Corporation needed. Also along in Chittagong, sharing that how floods with building of washed away his little factory and that how roads, import duty much the Bangladeshi people touched his heart which made him to stay and invest on heavy duty-load in the country. He strongly voiced his trucks and buses concerns about the existing infrastructure. should be reduced.” “The present infrastructure is somehow handling exports of US $ 24 billion, but will soon reach US $ 50 billion; exponential “The interest rates investment in infrastructure is needed. in Bangladesh are Also along with building of roads, import between 14 and Commerce Minister, Tofail Ahmed duty on heavy duty-load trucks and buses 18 per cent for replying to the questions put up by the should be reduced,” he said, adding that exporters, while they industry members. Also seen are BGMEA there is a real competition developing with President, Atiqul Islam (4th from left) are 6 to 9 per cent in the rising of the Indian garment industry along with other panellists comprising of India, 6 per cent in Garment Exporters, Bankers, Heads of in terms of more industry-friendly policies International Brands & Retailers, Trade (labour, investment, and procedures). He Mostafa Golam Quddus, China, 9 per cent in Chamber Leaders and Compliance mentioned that he has been invited by a Chairman, Dragon Group Cambodia, 5.9 per Bodies leading business group of India to invest in cent in Pakistan, 6.9 the Indian apparel sector. per cent in Sri Lanka Vocal in his criticism of the high interest and 7.9 per cent in we need 17% growth per year to reach the rates, Mostafa Golam Quddus, Chairman, Thailand; how can target and for this, the Government, the Dragon Group stressed upon the urgent we compete with RMG sector and the buyers, all have to need to reduce the interest rates to keep these countries?” come together with combined commitment,” funds rotating in the industry. He indicated pointed out Khondaker Golam Moazzem, that over 500 garment factories have closed because of high interest rates and Additional Director (research) of the “It’s a challenging Centre for Policy Dialogue. another 500 factories are on the brink of closure, if the issue of interest rate is not time for the industry The doubling of turnover in six years resolved immediately. “The interest rates where minimum wages not only sounds challenging, but also in Bangladesh are between 14 and 18 per have gone up, so the interesting as it reflects the positivity cent for exporters, while they are 6 to 9 and determination of the garment need of the hour is per cent in India, 6 per cent in China, 9 per manufacturing fraternity which shares to upgrade the skill cent in Cambodia, 5.9 per cent in Pakistan, that their buyers have reassured them of levels of the existing 6.9 per cent in Sri Lanka and 7.9 per cent their faith, even in the face of all odds workforce to fetch in Thailand; how can we compete with Reaz-Bin-Mahmood, and are doing their best to help the Managing Director, better productivity these countries? The interest rate on loans industry to adopt best practices. Wilma La-belle Apparel Ltd. should be brought down to a single digit for with lesser human B. Wallace, Vice President, Global the industry, and for this, there should be intervention.” Responsibility, Human Rights & transparency in the banking sector,” stated Business at Gap Inc. highlighted the fact Mostafa Golam. that the RMG sector of Bangladesh has Apparel Ltd. stressed upon the importance come forward strongly to look after the Relentlessly working towards skill of upgrading the skills of the workers at the welfare and safety of the workers, and it is development and bringing in projects shop floor. “It’s a challenging time for the heartening to see how the entrepreneurs for skill development through BUFT by industry where minimum wages have gone have proactively joined hands with the joining hands with donors like ADB (Asian up, so the need of the hour is to upgrade Accord and Alliance to eliminate the Development Bank) and DFID (Department the skill levels of the existing workforce to non-compliant practices and are investing for International Development) for funding fetch better productivity with lesser human hugely to make their factories as per the skill development projects, Reaz-Bin- intervention,” he emphasized, highlighting a international code of conduct. Mahmood, Managing Director, La-belle long-standing need of the industry.
JANUARY 2015 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 31 businessexchange
NAFFCO garners huge response at 2nd Edition of Building and Fire Safety Expo, 2014
resent with all its verticals, NAFFCO Responding to the Flow Control – the sister concern of need for greater NAFFCO – showcased its electrical and plumbing products like piping systems safety in the garment Pand valves used for chilled water plumbing and manufacturing industry, ventilation systems. “We have many clients in C&A Foundation, in Bangladesh and many new companies have association with BGMEA, shown interest in our products and solutions,” BKMEA, the Alliance and shared Radwan Halabi, Export Director, Accord for Bangladesh NAFFCO. With presence in 108 countries worldwide, NAFFCO’s products are tested Workers’ Safety and by UL (Underwriters Laboratories), a safety International Finance consulting and certification company that follows Corporation, organized Alfred Alvares, Senior Radwan Halabi, the quality standards of NEPA (National Fire Development Manager, Export Director, NAFFCO the ‘Building and Fire Protection Association), along with various other NAFFCO Flow Control Safety Expo, 2014’. A total international agencies such as CE, FPA, LPCB, “The kind of volumes “The main issue in of 52 exhibitors displayed to mention a few. “Besides extinguishers and we do, makes us very fire fighting is that their fire and electrical fire doors, we have a gamut of products like Fire price-competitive and you are maintaining Hoses and Accessories, Hydrants & Valves, Fire safety products aimed at at times we even go certain standards Suppression Systems, Fire Detection & Security lower in prices for which mean garment factories, and Systems, etc. Our fire doors come with the entire greater reach, but using products also organized seminars system including the drain, bush bar; even the maintain the same having very high on safety measures and big glasses in the door are UL-certified,” said quality.” efficiency.” awareness of the latest Halabi, who also claimed that NAFFCO products fire safety equipments. are highly competitive both in quality and price. Energy-efficient products Although incorporating quality and certified fire NAFFCO is selling its products through six and eco-friendly safety products and technology is an additional distributors in Bangladesh as the market is technologies such as cost for the factory owners, they cannot afford too big and cannot be covered with a sole to ignore them as they have to ensure the agent. The company also offers fire protection energy saving lamps, fire safety of their workers and properties. Also, it garments which it outsources from UK-based proof emergency lamps, is often seen that company officials install the company called Bulldozer. With its three huge and automated fire equipment without having adequate knowledge manufacturing facilities in Dubai, NAFFCO is extinguishers received of the installation process, and the equipment contemplating to have a small manufacturing a huge response does not work when a fire breaks out due to setup in sub-continent to support the from the visitors. “This a faulty set-up. In view of this, NAFFCO is local market which is growing fast for the offering free installation service and training. company. “We are operating in 110 countries clearly indicates that “We are putting a lot of emphasis on awareness worldwide with presence in GCC countries, entrepreneurs are now programs, for example, we highlight the fact African region, India, Far East, Australia, keen to make their that the Fire Door will not kill the fire, but will and West Indies, and have just entered in factory safer and more block the fire and smoke so that people can South American market. Even though we are energy-efficient,” said be evacuated. But along with fire doors there new to Bangladesh, we have created greater Atiqul Islam, President, should be fire detection systems, fire alarms, fire impact so far and are confident of growth,” BGMEA. Among the extinguishers, sprinklers, hoses, hydrants, and avers Alfred Alvares, Senior Development above all, a reliable water source,” said Halabi. Manager, NAFFCO Flow Control. company that really drew in the crowd was NAFFCO, a Dubai-based manufacturer of fire protection systems, trucks, ambulances and special vehicles, which displayed a variety of products and solutions ranging from fire extinguishers to fire doors. Besides extinguishers and fire doors, NAFFCO offers products like fire hoses and accessories, hydrants & valves, fire suppression systems and much more
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WRAP’s Motto “We don’t believe in putting out fire..., we believe in preventing fire” The increasing incidences of fire and safety issues in Bangladesh apparel factories have prompted WRAP, the US-based social compliance agency, to launch fire & safety training program especially designed for the Bangladesh industry. Team AOB caught up with Saifull Kwaja, WRAP, Director – Bangladesh Liaison Office, to know the details of their ongoing training programs and how the industry is reacting to it…
Saifull Kwaja
Excerpts from the Interview... practical fire-fighting session, and a five- the facility gets a 4-week audit window. step risk assessment process. Based on audit results, audit team makes AOB: What influenced the decision to a recommendation to our board, which launch a training program on fire We conduct training in the local language, is forwarded to the US office. In case of safety? Have you been doing such example in Bangla in Bangladesh, Urdu discrepancies, the report is sent back to programmes earlier? in Pakistan and Hindi in India. When I train people, I don’t tell them how you regional office for a review, mainly because, SK: Much before Tazreen incident can extinguish a fire, because one doesn’t the local auditors are better versed in happened, in 2011 we had launched have enough time to put out a fire if they the local law and local requirements. Our fire safety training in Bangladesh. This don’t see it instantly. So the best thing is audits are basically social compliance training was based on risk assessment, to get out of the factory. The building can audits and safety is one part of social as we don’t believe in putting out fire..., be reconstructed; the machineries can be compliance audit; without safety there is we believe in preventing fire. This is the bought and installed again… but not the no compliance. Further, our CEO Avedis most popular training of its kind and we human life! I teach one slogan... ‘You have Seferian is on the Board of Alliance. have been conducting it since November to be selfish’. AOB: What was the response of the 2011. We have signed MOU with BGMEA We ask the participants to chant along and industry? How many companies have and the Leather Goods and Footwear then complete the phrase, which goes like benefited from the participation till Manufacturers and Exporters Association “I will not smoke in my factory…; and next date? Do they come on their own or are of Bangladesh (LFMEAB) for social phrase they are to add is “Will not allow they prompted by the buyers? compliance certification and awareness anybody else to smoke inside the factory”. SK: We have so far conducted training for ethical manufacturing practices Similarly, “I will not bring matches and programmes in more than 600 factories. in Bangladesh through compliance lighters inside my factory and will not There are two types of training, one for with WRAP’s 12 principles, as well as let others…”; “I will not block my aisles, individual factories and other for buyer facilitating comprehensive educational extinguishers and I will not let others do nominated factories. We have done training programmes for both factory workers the same…”; “After hearing a fire alarm, I sessions in Kenpark, AKH, Apex Footwear and managers. will stop my work, look for the nearest exit, to name a few. Then there are factories AOB: How is the training conducted? Is straightaway go through the exit and nominated by buyers like M&S which is it more demonstrative or more theory..., reach the assembly area and I will ask getting all its factories trained by us. Even using field experience or videos? How do others to do the same...”; “While leaving, Macy’s, Walmart Australia are getting all the participants benefit from it? I will not collect any of my belongings and their factories audited by us. Interestingly, not let others take away their belongings.” we are also conducting safety training for SK: Our training module is a combination These are the only things they have to participants from BSCI. Till now we have of both theory and virtual drills in the know and follow. conducted more than 10 trainings for BSCI. factory premises. The day-long course For 2015, they have already booked us for covers a review of Bangladeshi fire AOB: How do you ensure that the more than 6 training schedules. safety laws, the definition of a fire, fire companies stay compliant after you awareness, combustion and fire spread, have done due diligence and given them AOB: What other services do you offer human behaviour in a fire situation, the WRAP certification? to the industry? role of the fire warden, basic principles of SK: Intertek, SGS, ICG, TUV SÜD and Training on safety and risk management is risk assessment, routine fire prevention Accordia Global are the nominated our forte and we shall continue doing that. measures, model of evacuation, fire safety monitoring firms in Bangladesh for The current social compliance status of the features and facilities, fire drills and follow-up of certifications. They conduct industry is not satisfactory and there is a pre-planning, fire-fighting equipment, a audits based on WRAP principles where lot of room to improve the situation.
36 Apparel Online Bangladesh | JANUARY 2015 bangladeshcanvas
Energypac Fashion to invest US $ 5 million bangladeshSnips in 2015 for adding 14 new production lines To introduce and practice lean manufacturing process ‘Global Buyers' Information Directory' launched by BKMEA Published by Bangladesh angladesh is the next hot spot for lines – 5 for trousers and 3 for jackets. The Knitwear Manufacturers “Bsourcing suits,” says Humayun company is doing large volumes of kidswear and Exporters Association Rashid, Managing Director & CEO, for brands like Dorothy Perkins, Debenhams (BKMEA) ‘Global Buyers’ Energypac Fashion, a promising suit and NEXT, along with jackets and blazers Information Directory’ manufacturing company which intends to as school uniforms for brands like Truetex. – A business directory increase its investment by US $ 5 million The company also plans to invest containing more than in 2015 in assets acquisition, compliance additional US $ 1.02 million to address 25,000 addresses of and workplace safety, IT & productivity various compliance issues including fire global apparel buyers in development, warehouse & safety handling, and worker safety along with extensive 160 countries has been research & design studio and add 14 new training programmes for workers as well launched to help the full operative production lines with heavy as mid-level managers. The company is industry. It also gives machineries that includes freight elevator, about to start a project to introduce and important information such practice lean manufacturing process. “In as import statistics, lists of 2015, Energypac Fashion is targeting to importable items, and tariff ensure zero tolerance compliance and also and non-tariff structures to achieve zero defect on quality. Even we on knitwear and woven intend to refocus all our energies to rising garments across the globe. overhead challenges by increasing our It holds tips on the trade in efficiency levels to reach global standard the European Union (EU) efficiency levels,” shares Humayun who countries, the US, Latin is also planning to introduce incentive America, Japan, China, program for workers, equal employment Australia, South Africa, opportunity for workers, increase Russia and Caribbean awareness for tuberculosis, HIV, polio and Islands. A.K.M. Salim other vaccination programmes, among all Osman, President, BKMEA the workers. presided over the function The suiting business is fairly a new while Commerce Minister Humayun Rashid, Managing Director & CEO, Energypac Fashion product category for Bangladesh, and Tofail Ahmed launched the outside EPZ only about a dozen factories directory. facility for standby power, standby boiler, are manufacturing and exporting woven automation etc. Humayun is very sure that tailored garments for men, ladies and Knitwear village to the leading apparel companies in Europe children. Energypac Fashion holds a good be set-up in Narayanganj and the US have planned to decrease levels position in Bangladesh in structured Government is set to of sourcing in China over the next five garment business. “We will be able to grab establish a 1000 acre years while looking at Bangladesh as an the top spot not just within Bangladesh but knitwear village in alternate source. with also with our competitors in China, Narayanganj. The date Energypac Fashions has a setup of more Cambodia, Vietnam, India and Indonesia,” of commencement of the than 400 sewing machines and 8 sewing states confident Humayun. project is yet to be declared by the Commerce Ministry. The announcement comes at a time when any considerable progress is yet to be made on a similar project taken up few years ago for woven garment makers. However, Shahidullah Azim, Vice President BGMEA, informed that BGMEA and a Chinese firm have jointly been working for the last few months to develop the site and 482 acres have been allocated at Bausia in Munshiganj for the woven garment makers’ project. Energypac is planning to introduce incentive program for workers, along with awareness programmes for tuberculosis, HIV, polio and other vaccinations
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UNI ASIA ASSOCIATES focusing on printing solutions from Hebbecker as the new growth area Bullmer and Navis TubeTex spearheading current growth
resh wave of growth in the export market and rising labour wages F have created a win-win situation for Uni Asia, with the industry not only seeking machines for reducing labour dependency but also for adding value to the garments. “Majority of the investments are targeted at cutting room automation, wherein people are not only installing cutters and spreaders but also looking at optimising the efficiencies and output of the department by cut order management and planning, which we are able to provide as a part of our services,” informs M A Saleque, Managing Director, Uni Asia Associate. The company provides apparel manufacturing solutions from Juki, Bullmer, Hebbecker, Navis TubeTex, Human Solutions, Krishna Lamicoat and Steiger. The Bangladesh industry is today looking at quality machines and despite the fact that Bullmer is quite expensive compared to other well-known brands for cutting room solutions, the machines are still in high demand and the return-on investment is low since the machines require zero maintenance. Chittagong-based Sri Lankan company, Univogue selected cutters from Bullmer after in-depth analyses of all the available brands in the market. “The patented knife-driven system of the cutting machine from Bullmer is replaceable and can be changed very quickly in case of breakdown which reduces the machine downtime greatly. This aspect of the cutters gives an edge to the industry,” shares Saleque. The success of the German brand in the competitive market of Bangladesh cannot alone be attributed to the cutting edge technology and performance of the machines, but also to the fact that Uni Asia has ensured availability of spare parts and trained service personnel for after-sales service and support. “We have identified consumables and parts that often breakdown and need to be replaced, and have kept a good stock of such parts,” adds Saleque, who has precariously selected the top technology suppliers for the apparel and textile industry as his principals. Uni Asia also conducts regular workshops and seminars to update the industry on latest machines and technologies available in the market. Saleque shares that denim jeans manufacturers have been riding the growth M A Saleque, Managing Director, Uni Asia Associate trend for the past 4 years and Uni Asia
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“Majority of the investments are targeted at cutting room automation, wherein people are not only installing cutters and spreaders but also looking at optimizing the efficiencies and output of the department by cut order management and planning, which we are able to provide as a part of our services.” — M A Saleque, MD, Uni Asia Associate
Navis TubeTex C-2500 Open Width Compactor Procut D 8001 automatic cutter from Bullmer
Associates has got good enquiries for washing range also helps in saving 10-18% With the apparel industry striving to denim jeans sewing machines and water consumption. move up the value chain, Uni Asia is now automates of the Japanese pioneer Along with denim, knits has also driven offering high-end automated garment Juki as the industry now wants total growth for Uni Asia as the response printing solutions from the German automation in sewing denim jeans for fabric processing and finishing pioneer Hebbecker. A specialist in printing to reduce the process time in sewing machines from the American pioneer and flocking machines, Hebbecker has more than three decades of experience in operations. “An automatic pocket setting Navis TubeTex has been consistently manufacturing and developing machines machine can do 90% of pocket stitching, rising. “Backward integration in knits for printing, flocking and curing. The while you will require five operators to has created a tremendous demand for variants of the machines are available in 6 stitch one pocket,” elaborates Saleque. such machines and since the technologies to 20 stations and can print in a maximum Juki’s AP 876 automatic pocket setter from Navis TubeTex is 50% energy of 20 colours. Every station is equipped is a fully automatic back pocket sewing efficient, the acceptance rate has been with servo motor-driven four cylinder machine with the ability to fold a pocket very high,” avers Saleque. With more than power squeegee system and the pressure and place it on the jean panel while the 350 installations in Bangladesh, Navis settings of every station can be set machine is still engaged in the sewing TubeTex is the preferred choice for fabric individually to achieve the highest degree of the pocket. The machine carries out shrinkage control and its C-2500 open- of precision while printing. “Hebbecker a series of pocket setting processes at width compactor has made its mark in has not only made a niche in printing and 9.9 seconds per pocket and achieves 7.1 the competitive market of Bangladesh due flocking machines but also in auxiliary times as productive as general-purpose to features like compaction rates of up to equipment like the dryers and curing machines. Negating the requirement of 25%, fabric width control, re-circulating oil machines, which make them a complete 7 operators, the machine reduces the heating system and sensitive fabric entry printing solution provider,” avers Saleque. process time by approximately 1 minute system. Working with Navis TubeTex since and gives an output of 2,237 pockets per 2009, Uni Asia has trained 6 dedicated Most of the intermediate dryers need a 8-hour shift. technicians for Navis TubeTex. lot of energy because in short time they have to achieve a high temperature, Another critical product in the Uni Uni Asia also makes available sewing which also damages the textile or Asia’s portfolio for denim jeans is the needles from the German pioneer garment, but with the new IR radiators Turkish pioneer in developing dry Schmetz. With more than 16 decades of from Hebbecker, the absorption and/or and wet finishing machines for denim experience in manufacturing needles for the reflection of the IR jets is in relation jeans, Yilmak. The company provides the sewn product industry, Schmetz has to different colours more neutral. Thus a wide range of eco-friendly machines, acquired the knowledge necessary for these IR emitters are harmless and are which covers garment dyeing and manufacturing product and operation- not as harsh on the textile as short-wave washing machines, tumbler dryers, specific needles. The company offers emitters; hence the textile will not be hydro extractors and a complete range normal round point needles for sewing damaged or destroyed. This cannot be of dry processing machines. Equipped lightweight woven fabrics, acute round achieved with short-wave emitters which with a unique water saving systems, point needles for sewing densely woven have too high temperatures in connection machines from Yilmak help the garment fabrics, light ball point needles for sewing with a too long drying time. “Our company manufacturers to achieve a reduction in lightweight knits and medium ball point has graduated from selling machines to water-liquor ratio up to 1:3. The advanced needles for stone-washed and sand- giving solutions to the apparel and textile technology and precision design of the washed denims. industry,” concludes Saleque proudly.
JANUARY 2015 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 41 Resourcecentre
r-pac banking on RFID tags as the next game changer The market for tags and labels is increasingly becoming competitive with almost all big garment manufacturers setting up their own units to manufacture tags and labels, to cater to their in-house demand. Though this has been done primarily to save cost and time, they also see it as another business vertical. But the real question is how competitive can these garment manufacturers be as compared to specialized tag and label manufacturers. “No doubt, apparel manufacturers have increased their label and tag manufacturing capabilities, but they generally invest only in manufacturing a certain type of label or tag, which are the most in demand, instead of a whole range, whereas we, as a specialist, are manufacturing all types of labels and tags, and are in tune with the latest trends and evolving retailer preferences. We are also ready to invest in new forms of tags and labels,” asserts Imtiaz Ahmed Kamiss, Managing Director, r-pac Bangladesh.
multi-national targeting the entire market, their American company, target is to achieve minimum with its presence in 25 of 40 per cent of market share Acountries worldwide, from each of the customers and providing complete they serve in Bangladesh. “Our packaging solutions for brands growth targets are also planned and retailers, r-pac is being in the same manner. As of now, spearheaded in Bangladesh we are catering to nearly 60 per by Kamiss. The operations cent to 80 per cent of all labelling in the country include a label requirements of the 4 major US manufacturing unit in Adamjee retailers/brands operating in EPZ and through a joint venture Bangladesh,” explains Kamiss. with a leading industrial Being an American company, conglomerate of Bangladesh. majority of the brands for which The scope and expanse of labels the company manufactures and have increased manifolds and provides labels in Bangladesh today, a garment uses many are American retailers. However, types of labels namely, brand since 2009, the company has identification labels, size/care been exploring the European labels, promotional hangtags market more aggressively, and and stickers, self-adhesive has already entered a working size-strips and promotional relationship with retailers such stickers, logistics stickers and as Tesco, C&A and Decathlon, to special labels for enhancing the name a few. aesthetics of a garment, resulting Every six months to one year, in a market size of around US and sometimes even earlier, $ 400 million, when calculated buyers review their portfolio based on the number of garments of labels and tags from the exported from Bangladesh. perspective of shape, material “Overall, we satisfy almost 10 used, printing technology, per cent of the total consumption and colour scheme. Label of labels and tags of various manufacturers are expected to retailers and brands that we be equipped to incorporate all service in Bangladesh,” says the changes in the labels, and Imtiaz Ahmed Kamiss, Managing Director, r-pac Bangladesh Kamiss, adding that instead of ship the goods on time as it is
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very critical for the entire sourcing of raw materials and supply chain. r-pac’s expertise production cost of RFID tags lies not only in manufacturing and stickers is very high and a variety of labels and tags, but is very technical too, a lot of also in product development, planning and investments need which requires extensive to be made, hence retailers tend interactions with the buyers, to keep with maximum of one developing collections in- or two suppliers. “Attaching house, and also keeping a tab RFID tags on garments is of on global trends. The company no additional cost for apparel manufactures all types of manufacturers, as RFID is identification products on a usually embedded into an garment: rotary and screen already existing tag or sticker printed fabric labels, woven which the garment has been labels, heat transfer labels, offset carrying already,” adds Kamiss. printed tags, thermal printed The company double checks the logistic stickers, RFID stickers information put on each tag – and tags and self-adhesive size EPC numbers, UPC numbers, strips. The company has also style numbers, sizes, etc. before recently started manufacturing releasing the consignment. leather patches. “No particular It’s the retailer or brand who technology or label type is more decides how much and what favoured over another label type information should be added or technology. Earlier, the heat to the tag, keeping in mind transfer labels were a big hit, whether inventory management when they were launched 10 is required at the POS level, years back, and were expected and if real time updation is to replace woven labels as a necessary for keeping track of product, but it did not happen, stocks. Not only that, RFID can even though costs have come also help apparel manufacturers down a lot. Their applications to monitor the output status of too have changed from labels a particular style by installing to graphics on the garments. RFID readers. “Due to the ever Besides the manufacturing increasing variations per style, techniques, buyers are now retailers are asking for RFID looking at labels and tags made tags because the technology of recycled tapes, recycled yarns, is faster, the reaction time and recycled paper, while trying is shorter, and you can even to reduce the number of tags know the location of a garment. on a garment, and using the Moreover, it is not just about space on a tag more efficiently,” billing and inventory but also informs Kamiss. about tracking every product in After years of heated debate, retail stores,” explains Kamiss. RFID tags have now become With a 40% growth year-on-year, widely acceptable (albeit r-pac Bangladesh is looking for limited use) by the end- at doubling its turnover in the consumer, and hence, all big next 3 years. Since demand retailers such as Walmart, is increasing from existing Macy’s, JCPenney, Jockey, and customers, and many new Levis have started tagging their customers have also been added garments with RFID labels. Their to the company’s portfolio, r-pac use has also increased due to is looking at setting up another the drastic reduction in the cost factory with a JV partnership. of the tags. “We have started The company is also eyeing at production of RFID tags and the lingerie segment, which has stickers for a large UK-based grown significantly in the last retailer, and would be supplying 10 years, and requires a unique to its vendors in Bangladesh, presentation and packing. “This Sri Lanka, Vietnam and India would be our next area for as well,” shares Kamiss. The growth, and being a specialist tags and label business virtually in providing packaging runs on nominations, but in solutions, we can certainly be a this case, r-pac is presently the dominant player in the market,” only nominated supplier, since concludes Kamiss.
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Lectra to capitalize on predictive maintenance for future growth It is no secret that fabric comprises 50% to 80% of a garment’s FOB, and therefore inefficient fabric consumption cannot be ignored. Cutting room is one place where the risk of fabric wastage is the highest. Spreading and cutting machines have gone beyond just eliminating waste to increasing process control, minimizing non-quality costs and optimizing machine availability. As the world leader in integrated technology solutions, Lectra has been at the forefront of innovative solutions for industries using fabrics. Having been in Bangladesh for nearly two decades, Lectra has made its foothold in the country much stronger by appointing Aamra Resources as their sales and service partner in Bangladesh. Till date, Lectra has installed around 300 plotter, 1,000 CAD licences, 80 cutters and around 100 spreaders in the country.
he company’s growth in through its maintenance approach. This T the competitive market would involve routine checks of the of Bangladesh is mainly machines and preventive replacement driven by its CAD solutions for of wearable parts that sooner or later pattern and marker making followed cause the machines to stop. “With the by spreading and cutting solutions. constant and automatic monitoring However, the new growth drivers of 150 sensors, we can now predict a for the company would be its high- breakdown” explains David, who claims end range of cutters and spreaders that now the industry cannot afford any such as the new Vector range of longer machine idle time. cutting machines. “Bangladeshi All this smart and advanced technology manufacturers have realized the would be useless with a low efficiency significance of cutting room efficiency in the cutting preparation (CAD, and accuracy such that they are Cut and Spread Planning) and after moving towards a premium set of cutting (off loading, sorting, dispatch). solutions,” asserts David Leprovost, Understanding the same, Lectra is Sales Director – ASEAN region, Lectra, who is looking after the investing more and more in talent company’s operations in Bangladesh acquisition of business consultant, through Lectra’s subsidiary in lean and six sigma certified, to deliver Singapore. Knits have always driven a secured and sustainable cutting the company’s growth in Bangladesh room implementation. and for sustaining this growth; Lectra In parallel, Aamra Resources has a is looking at underwear’s and panties maintenance support team consisting Every cutter can cut however as an opportunity area. “Every cutter of over 30 engineers working in Dhaka our focus is on optimising the can cut but our focus is on optimising and Chittagong for Lectra only. Providing the entire cutting room operations of entire cutting room operations optimum technical support also means an apparel manufacturer from pre- to keeping the right inventory for spare of an apparel manufacturer from post-cutting, a focus which will give us parts. “If we have to serve our customers pre- to post-cutting, a focus which an edge above the competition. Like in well, we have to maintain a significant will give us an edge above the the case of lingerie we are looking at spare parts warehouse and for us, cutting small parts at greater speeds, spare parts are not a business, it’s competition. Like in the case of with no buffer and compromise on more of a support service to our priority lingerie, we are looking at cutting quality for most of the fabrics” adds customers,” says Shamim Masudul small parts at greater speeds, with David. Since the country is known for Haque, Asst. General Manager – handling volumes, Lectra’s focus is on no buffer and compromise on Apparel Division, Aamra Resources cutting bigger and faster for shorter Ltd. Endorsing the same, David quality for most of the fabrics.” ROI periods and greater overall concludes, “The initial investment in a David Leprovost, equipment effectiveness. Lectra cutting solution might be a higher Sales Director – ASEAN region, Lectra The next focus area for the company budget but five years down the line we is on minimising machines’ downtime, prove to be the cheapest.”
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Tech Management By
How to Choose a Lean Consultant? With many in the industry going for Lean implementation as a way to save on wastages and curb cost of production, the number of consultants that have mushroomed over the last two years is confusing… Most consultants working in the industry today have started using the word ‘Lean’. Everyone seems to have become a Lean consultant… Lean sigma, Lean productivity, Lean manufacturing…, but are these consultants really conforming to the concept of Lean? With the term Lean being freely used and abused, no clear-cut demarcation on who is actually a Lean consultant has emerged. Apparel Online discussed with three top consultants, who have been working extensively with the Lean concept, on making the right choice; their observations and advises are very directional while choosing a Lean consultant…
e all know of situations where He further suggested that only when a Master Black Belt and Executive W consultants come into a plant, the expectations are crystal clear and certification from INSEAD Business put in a few Lean tools, pat written, then the process of selecting School France, but for a consultant a few backs (including their an appropriate candidate should what really matters is how the own) and then leave. But is the job begin. “Don’t rush into this. Treat consultant gained his knowledge about really done, was he the right person for it much like you would if you were Lean and where has he applied those,” the job, will the implementation give hiring someone to fill a position in he says. Adds Hank, “Formal schooling, long-term results… these are some your company. Share a copy of your degrees, and certificates are not the of the questions that crop up. Many written expectations with them and only means to gaining intelligence. consultants/client failures happen decide which one is the best that fits Look more for how they make sense because the two parties have different the job,” he advices. Aligning goals of things and how they figure out what expectations and have not clearly is critical. “Corporates can work needs to be done.” visualized the project’s successful on long-term plans in driving Lean Another major debate is whether outcome. As Hank Olszewski of The across, but owner-driven companies the consultant for Lean solutions Sew Lean Company puts it, “The look at improvement within 24 hours; should have experience of the importance of clear expectations is in everything is short-term which is specific industry to be successful. being satisfied with a consultant’s work opposed to Lean where the mind is Hank feels that being an outsider and the consultant being satisfied with set for long-term, and this is where may in fact be an advantage. “Judge his/her own work as well.” the benefits can be collected after 1 their expertise by investigating their to 2 years of intensive Lean efforts,” experience with Lean overall and in Clearly defining reminds Charles Dagher, CEO, your industry specifically. However, expectations… Dagher Consultancy. don’t discount someone solely on the Every expert agrees that there has to fact that they are not experienced in be a synergy between the expectation Formal education or your industry,” he advises. Though CJ of the client and the Lean consultant. shop floor experience… acknowledges that when it comes to However, Hank is most vocal on the To derive the best results, while some Lean consultants, it does not matter issue. He argues, “When seeking a experts feel that a formal education whether they have the same industry consultant, Lean or otherwise, the in Lean is significant, they all experience because it is a set of tools, first step is to look in the mirror. unanimously agree that experience principles and concepts to teach and Stare at yourself and ask what is it and body of past achievements is drive/direct on implementation of the that will satisfy your needs. Not the more important, as the industry is a same. However, he adds, “It will be “things” to accomplish them, that’s very ‘hands-on industry’. “There are an added advantage if the consultant the consultant’s job, but the “results”. no certifications for Lean expertise has the same industry experience as Remember, satisfaction is simply reality and every consultant develops his/her he can better share or understand the meeting expectations. Visualize the own tools to suit the industry needs,” situation to trouble shoot.” successful end-results (these are your says Dagher. Dagher argues that though any expectations) and how satisfied you However, Chandrajith consultant with just-in-time expertise will feel when they are met. Then write Wickramasinghe (also popularly might be able to assist in improving it all down. Do not skip any part of this addressed as CJ), CEO, Corrigo the industry with some limitations, first step even if you can’t stand to Consultancy clarifies that there are as the improvement is mostly related look at yourself. If that’s the case, shut a couple of universities and institutes to the connection of processes to your eyes when standing in front of the that offer certificates/belts like Green, shorten lead time and eliminate any mirror. This first step might be the most Black, etc. in Lean, which gives replication in procedures, the question difficult part of the whole process.” credibility to the consultants.“I have here is that apparel sector differs
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from other manufacturing sectors basically means how seamlessly the such as automobile, pharmaceutical, consultant can blend in with your electronics, etc. where their processes corporate culture. “Make sure the are driven by automation as opposed candidate is aware of your corporate to apparel sector which is still driven culture and determine if his/her by manpower who perform their job personality fits in. Be sure to let him/her through established work methods that know how his/her work must be aligned yield to revenue. “Having said this, with achieving your company’s mission the apparel sector might not benefit to and goals. Also determine, how many the fullest by engaging a Lean expert of your workers and the other staff will Hank Olszewski, interact with him/her and decide if the The Sew Lean Company from any other sector compared to a Lean expert from apparel sector,” candidate’s personality enhances or With more than 20 years of reasons Dagher. upsets your team working together,” experience, Hank understands the says Hank. intricacies of progressive bundle and Indeed the apparel industry is driven by Lean manufacturing systems, and has systems and work methods for better Dagher is very critical of the actually grown from a line supervisor labour utilization since labour is the consultants currently working in the to a Lean expert. He specializes in 5S, main driver of revenue, generated from industry. “Most of the consultants in kanban, plant engineering, single-piece their productivity, which is the result India and Bangladesh who have flow and operator training projects. of a good process (flow) and efficient heard about Lean in the past few years work methods (cycle time). “In the and claim themselves as experts, are improvement process (pertaining to limited only to physical change as lots of wasteful motions due to lack of they are copying concepts from one standardization), most Lean experts factory to another but Lean is beyond from other sector won’t focus on work that, it is about creating a continuous methods due to their lack of technical improvement culture not a physical and engineering skill and knowledge. change,” concludes Dagher. Lean at Toyota was built by the Who’s the best – engineering team not by managers,” Independent or avers Dagher. Consultant Group History of Hank believes that independents work Charles Dagher CEO, Dagher Consultancy implementations… better. “When a Lean consultant has a tricky problem to solve, the cavalry A professional Industrial Engineer Having determined that the consultant has the right attitude to handle doesn’t need to be called in. Lean is with an MBA, Dagher has worked as a about creativity and common sense. the challenges of the industry, it consultant in the National Productivity He/she just gets more imaginative. Improvement Programs carried out in is important to look at how they Problems need more creative solutions, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh and Pakistan. handled their past projects which not more consultants,” he argues. Specific areas of expertise include most resembled the specific needs of While, Dagher agrees with him that a just-in-time systems, materials handling, the factory. “Be sure to ask for not-so- consultant is a facilitator with a goal and production and performance successful results as well as triumphs. of aligning everyone within the factory management programs. If they have none, ask how they would to drive improvements, he points out handle your needs. Keep in mind that that sometimes a consultancy firm Lean is more about being clever and can have an edge. “One consultant is imaginative than just using tools out of enough, but some consultancy firms a box,” argues Hank. share roles as well, by having more CJ emphasizes that the consultant than one consultant since apparel should have in-depth experience in is built on management, finance, industry with handling minimum 10- systems and methods. This might 15 successful implementations as a require several consultants’ expertise consultant. “Work experience, prior and probably one consultant won’t to becoming a consultant as Sensei have the skill required to cover all or senior managerial position holder, areas,” he reasons. responsible for implementing Lean Chandrajith Wickramasinghe (CJ) With the successful implementation of CEO, Corrigo Consultancy concepts in a reputed organization, Lean which is dependent on two pillars which had successfully transformed With more than 15 years of experience – respect and teamwork – CJ is honest in the industry, and over a decade of to Lean enterprise, is also important,” when he says, “Independent consultant experience in MAS Holding, Sri Lanka, avers CJ. with complete knowledge or team of CJ has attended INSEAD Business consultants with shared knowledge, School, France and IIM, Bangalore. He Blending with the team both would work out to be the same. holds expertise in areas of green factory Perhaps one of the biggest factors But what really makes the difference setup, human resource management, which many companies tend to overlook is that the client should have a team business process re-engineering and when selecting a consultant is the dedicated for Lean implementation to material handling systems. harmony in the thought process which get best out of a consultant.”
JANUARY 2015 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 49 Tech Management By
AAMA-TEX 2014, Singapore Few, but quality exhibitors; expected more Visitors Technology fairs are a much anticipated hunting ground for interventions to improve productivity and upgrade machines with new-age solutions. AAMA-TEX 2014, which saw exhibits by more than 150 companies from 18 countries, was a major draw for Asian garment manufacturers. Adding an extra edge, was the Li & Fung (Kohl's Sourcing Group), organizing a two-day Global Quality & Lean Conference, bringing together around 300 leading and highly reputed garment manufacturers to the event.
Conspicuous with their Welspun and Gokaldas H&H Bonding and Welding the participants took the absence were many major Exports, while Sri Lanka machines. “Such fairs present opportunity to interact with players such as Duerkopp was represented by Mas an opportunity to update our their agents/representatives Adler, Pfaff, Juki, Brother, Holdings and Bangladesh by knowledge and we look for and principles, planning for Pegasus and many more... Standard Group, among few not only new technologies but the future. It also gave them Even the Chinese presence others. Gautam Chakraborty, innovative interventions that a platform to share notes was majorly from two CEO and Arun Saha, GM can support our operations and discuss new trends companies: Typical and Zoje. It of Gokaldas Exports were without adding too much in the market. seems that companies are now seen interacting with Enrico to the cost as replacing Few of the participants had happy to present themselves at Guerreschi, CEO, Vibemac, machines is not also viable,” some interesting technologies the regional level. specialist in denim wear said Gautam. that they shared with the Visitors from India included manufacturing technologies, While the visitors were kept Apparel Online team, some of teams from Texport, Shahi, and Anshuman Dash of busy with the technology, which are discussed here…
Vibemac faster and with better quality results consistently compared to a standard sewing at the forefront of machine feed-of-the arm needle automation for denim feed. The basic need for developing jeans manufacturing this puller was to alleviate the three operations on a casual trouser or denim, the back yoke attachment, the he three decades old specialist in left and right back rise and the in-seam Tmaking automates for denim jeans, of the trouser. These operations involve Vibemac, owned by the Guerreschi family, a huge number of plies and are more has adamantly kept the production complex to stitch. of its machines in Italy, renouncing a Not only does this puller increase profitable delocalization to a country the production efficiency by 20% in with lower costs, to maintain the high combination with a servo motor but quality of products and clients’ support. it also adds on to the quality of the The key features that have characterized garment as it cuts down on any feed Vibemac machines, showcased at the (L to R) Enrico Guerreschi, Global Sales Manager, Vibemac with Gherasim Silvian, Senior Technician, Vibemac that chews or damages the fabric. With AAMA-TEX fair, are their sturdiness in the assistance of its soft back belt, offering the flexibility of operations, the the automatic direct pressure on the minimum time required to change the In line with the labour reduction presser foot endows the best possible setting of a machine and that too without promised, the most recent innovation quality on any kind of fabric from the any technical help because the common from the company has been the versatile lightest to the heaviest. The pulling settings are already programmed and 100-Puller-A attachment for the feed- speed can be easily altered by an stored for easy and quick recall by of-the-arm machine, which is an extra unskilled operator by just moving the the operator. back puller device to track the fabric lever up and down.
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TSM eyeing the Indian market with its Focus Garment Tech already successful confident of growth range of cutters and with its new range of spreaders automates for denim jeans
aving made a name for itself in the Asian aiwan Spreading Centre Happarel manufacturing sector by making TEnterprises, owners of TSM brand available the suitable automations to the of spreading and cutting equipment, garment manufacturers, the four decades has been manufacturing cutting room old Focus Garment Tech has gone ahead to equipment since 1989. TSM has found offer automatic sewing machines for denim success for its NA-600 spreader, nine jeans manufacturing, by collaborating its of which have been installed at the ‘Nisho’ brand of sewing machines with the manufacturing facility of Bangladesh- Chinese sewing machines pioneer Supreme. based Standard Group. The company The range includes SNM-6700-AESM auto- has more than 100 spreaders running edge serging machine, SNAV-100DPC pocket in Bangladesh. Specialized for knit creasing machine, SNAS-2201G-JPPSSN fabrics, the spreaders are equipped (L to R) A K Azad, Managing Director, Glory Trade Centre, double needle machines for back pocket with features like dual material feeding, the sole agent of TSM in Bangladesh with James Kao, President, TSM Enterprise decorative sewing, SNOL-254 belt loop edge alignment, tension controller, setters, SNAS-2210G-JS-SN/DN automatic static eliminator, extension roller for J-stitch sewing machine, SNAS-3020G-PS-SN/ knit fabrics and a special cloth bar. punchers for drilling holes of various DN single and double needle back pocket The company has recently unveiled its sizes, knife cooler, to prevent fusing of setters. Saving majorly on labour, the auto- new TC-7000 automatic multi-ply fabric fabric edges due to heating of the knife serger from the company is equipped with cutter. The cutter is equipped with and a punch waste cleaner for collecting an automatic sensing device for identifying features such as auto-rotating six-drill waste while the fabric is being cut. all kinds of irregular curves in the edges and overlocking the edges accordingly. The back
Typical relying on its diverse portfolio for growth
i’an Typical Industries, proud technologies and workstations. The Xowners of Typical and Vetron quest for leading edge in R&D has led to sewing machine brands are among the formation of the German subsidiary the handful of companies who have of the company in Kaiserslautern, not only captured the Chinese market employing German engineers and staff in sewing technologies but also the from famous European sewing machine international market of automates manufacturers and working only on the through its European subsidiary. Over R&D. The same might of the company Foo Toon Pow, Managing Director, Focus Garment Tech (R) with a client the last few years, Typical has invested was represented at the AAMA-TEX fair heavily in R&D and is also acquiring in Singapore. pocket decoration machine from the company technical know-how to offer many new Typical development, the revolutionary can make designs with two colour threads X-feed system addresses the issues of simultaneously and an operator can handle the inter-ply slippage, puckering and three such machines at a time. The J-stitcher rope effect along with the seam-line and back pocket setter are also capable of which are missed out by the drop feed, sewing with twin coloured threads at a time. needle feed and unison feed, ticking off the defects like puckering from the As a sewing machine provider, Nisho has quality reports of the manufacturer. expanded its portfolio to offer chainstitch, Stirring a revolution in the stitching double needle lockstitch machines, feed-of- technologies, is its GC 6760, a direct the-arm sewing machines, blind stitching drive, semi-dry head, single needle machines, zigzag sewing machines, button lockstitch machine that can switch the holing and sewing machines, overlock, unison feed from top to bottom. From flatlock, interlock sewing machines along the pattern tacking, electronic button with specialized quilting machines for holing and bartacking machines, Typical manufacturing outerwear jackets. Focus is now offering its latest technology also offers cutting room solutions from KM, where a bartack machine can be fusing machines from Hashima and finishing transformed within 10 minutes into a machines from Nisho and Nissin. Michel Chen, President, Typical, International Corporation button-stitching machine.
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you feel healthy even if you never use it,” he adds. According to Piper Jaffray, Search for Lululemon, a yoga-inspired athletic company, has helped ‘comfort'... pioneer yoga pants as leisurewear and has been at the forefront of yoga pants the shift from traditional leisure clothes to comfortable stretchy and gym shirts pants as yoga has increasingly become mainstream. GAP has also increased its Athleta sales hit the streets as and raised the number of stores (expected to cross 100) too. Not far mainstream clothing behind are Nike, Under Armour and Adidas, who have introduced Though the shift to comfortable new line of pliable pants and is being witnessed moisture-wicking tank tops that footwear can be worn throughout the day. for a long time, it is more recent Many retailers have seen that the comfort bug has shifted increasing gains by adding consumers’ preferences in athleisure lines amongst clothing with greater emphasis which is Footlocker, the largest sneaker on what is being commonly chain, which has coined as ‘Athleisure’ garments. added more athletic With accelerated demand apparels such as for comfortable clothing, sale sports bra and posted a 7 per for yoga pants and other cent total gain. activewear has increased by 7 At GAP, the per cent to US $ 33.6 billion in the same-store sales of Old US in less than a years’ time. Many Navy showed retailers have taken a note of this an increase of growing change and many 4 per cent due to chains ranging from Macy’s Inc. addition of cropped track pants and tank tops. to Urban Outfitters are pushing Under Armour has also deeper into the category. credited the athleisure trend with fuelling growth, when the company posted its 17th straight quarter of increasing revenue by more than 20 per cent. ith stagnant wage informs David McGoldrick, growth and slowdown Research Associate, Euromonitor. Though the growing sportswear and leisurewear trend has in mall traffic, the US Active or idle, consumers are attracted many new retailers but apparel industry is lapping up ‘athleisure’. So much W a few traditional retailers are still seeing one category thrive, i.e. so that fitness-inspired togs also planning to get into action. athleisure, which combines athletic are among the hottest trends The Swedish retailer H&M has and leisurewear. An increasing driving America’s apparel launched a new sportswear line number of women are ‘ditching’ market. Comfortable, affordable, focussed on ‘functionality and jeans or slacks for yoga pants and versatile and increasingly stylish, comfort’ that features yoga tank dressy sweat pants; men are also activewear is no longer just for the tops and sports tights while not far behind, making hoodies and gym. Sleek hoodies and stretch Macy’s is in the midst of opening sneakers as their new workwear. pants have become acceptable Finish Line shops featuring Many apparel companies in order attire at many offices, not to athletic footwear, apparel and to cash into the growing trend are mention restaurants and bars. accessories at more than 450 of its introducing ‘athleisure’ to their And sporting them can create the department stores. line-ups. “The yoga pants and sensation of being well and sporty. outdoor jackets originally designed “It’s like diet pills in a bottle,” Further giving this category a for more technical athletic pursuits explains Marshal Cohen, Chief much needed push are consumers, are being worn on daily basis. Now Industry Analyst at The NPD especially teenagers, who are they have a crossover appeal,” Group. “When you buy a treadmill, ditching their denims for stretchy
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pants. According to a study by Piper Jaffray, leggings (and yoga pants from Lululemon) VIDA to sell socially responsible were ranked as the most clothing popular trend amongst female teens while Nike was the No.1 A new e-commerce platform VIDA has been launched recently brand among teen boys. “The to connect shoppers directly with ethically produced apparels American market is about cool and accessories by artisans and designers across the world. things that work. It’s a blend Aiming to provide means to earn a living for designers and of sports and lifestyle, sports artists involved in different stages of the production process, products that also have a street the portal will offer reasonable priced clothing for socially appeal and that is what we also responsible women shoppers. Currently, the website features see developing into Europe,” more than 75 individual designs across five product categories claims Bjorn Gulden, CEO, including 100 per cent silk made short-sleeve tops, a silk Puma. Piper Jaffray found sleeveless dress top and an array of cashmere-modal blend that 13 per cent of teenagers scarves, pure modal scarves and square silk scarves. The listed a denim company as company uses unique manufacturing process with methods their favourite brand, down like fabric digital printing technology, and works directly with from 20 per cent in 2010. textile mills and factories which help in cutting down the cost of Meanwhile, the percentage production and benefits both customers and designers. of teenagers who prefer an athletic brand surged from 2 The San-Francisco based VIDA brings artists, producers and per cent to 14 per cent. consumers across the globe at one platform with a target to ensure that craftspeople at every level are paid a living wage. Not far behind are luxury Till date, the firm has gathered a sum of US $ 1.3 million brands which are also eyeing this trend as Christian Dior seed funding which will be used for recruitment and product has unveiled sneaker-inspired development purposes from its investors: Google Ventures, pumps for its fall ready-to-wear The Valley Fund, Universal Music Group, Nanon and Don line whereas online luxury Mattrick’s Beehive Holdings, Dave Morin’s Slow Ventures and While the US retailer Net-a-Porter unveiled Jesse Draper. women’s apparel a channel devoted exclusively sales rose 1 per to high-fashion athletic looks Kohl's bags 2014 Green Power Award cent in the 12 named Net-a-Sporter. It debuted with 36 brands in 11 sporting The American department store chain, Kohl’s has been months ended disciplines and features Stella recognized with the 2014 Sustained Excellence in Green in February, McCartney’s popular line of Power Award from the US Environmental Protection Agency activewear Adidas sportswear, as well (EPA). The award honoured leading green power users for increased 9 per as splurges like US $ 1,570 their commitment and contribution in helping advance the cent to US $ 14.5 cashmere track pants from development of the country. Kohl’s is amongst the largest host avant-garde designer Rick of solar electricity in North America with 161 solar locations billion, according Owens. “We spotted a gap in that generate more than 50 megawatts of on-site green power to market research the market for being a one-stop and each store of Kohl’s generates enough power to offset firm NPD Group shop for workoutwear, where 20 to 50 per cent of the store’s energy usage. Currently, the Inc. fashion meets function and company is purchasing more than 1.5 billion kilowatt hours where performance and style (kWh) of green power annually. This combined with the on-site are equally valued,” says senior green power generation, is enough to meet 105 per cent of the The size of the US buyer Candice Fragis. company’s total US-based electricity use. market for workout Following closely the trend, According to the EPA, Kohl’s current green power use of clothes grew by celebrity singer Beyoncé has more than 1.5 billion kWh is equivalent to avoiding the carbon formed a 50-50 joint venture 5 per cent a year dioxide (CO2) emissions of nearly 2,23,000 passenger with Topshop to produce an on average, from vehicles per year, or is the equivalent amount of electricity athletic streetwear brand. This needed to power nearly 1,46,000 average American homes roughly US $ 54 trend is surely catching on like annually. Till date, more than 80 per cent of Kohl’s stores have billion to US $ 68 fire with huge variety in the earned EPA’s Energy Star’s certification, and over a one-third billion, according market such as comfy pants to tank tops, which leaves have earned Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design to analysts at (LEED) certification from the US Green Building Council. Barclays. consumers spoilt for choices. “Consumers have and will Ken Bonning, Kohl’s Senior Executive Vice President says, continue to want versatility, to “As a national retailer, it is important for Kohl’s to be a good look great everywhere, in the corporate citizen. We aim to be a corporate sustainability gym, on the street, in class,” leader, which is demonstrated in our commitment to on-site concludes Henry Stafford, generation through our solar programme and a continued President of Under Armour investment in support of green power.” North America.
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YKK Fastening focuses on sustainability Hana Mitsui uses Japanese weaving to
he fastening product recreate fabric from waste group of Japan-based Currently, the TYKK Corporation, company is he Royal College of Art student, YKK Fastening, is working THana Mitsui, has developed a towards a sustainable society working to process to transform deadstock fabrics in cooperation with customers, fully eliminate into luxurious new garments. Mitsui, employees and local the hazardous has recently received the ‘Visionary communities. To achieve this process’ award at the 2014 SustainRCA goal, the company has divided chemicals Show & Awards. She has based her its focus on sustainability into from its technique on the art of sakiori, a type of four parts – procurement, manufacturing rag weaving popular in Edo-era Japan. manufacturing, product and process and has Sakiori was employed by the Japanese community sustainability. The peasants from mid 18th to 20th century company is also using Higg been working at a time when resources were scarce Index 2.0, a self assessment with suppliers and the cultivation of cotton difficult. tool developed by Sustainable on sustainable Like the practitioners before her, Apparel Coalition to evaluate Mitsui shreds waste fabrics into thin the environmental and social sourcing since strips, weaving them against a fresh impact of its factories. 2013. warp to create an entirely new cloth. Currently, the company is In contrast to the older techniques, working to fully eliminate the Mitsui’s creations are unmistakably hazardous chemicals from VOC treatment machinery improvements in its dyeing high-fashion. “One of the most its manufacturing process in 1997 and conforms to technology, has enabled important aspects of my theme is to and has been working with each country’s applicable the company to reduce the recreate fabrics and add value to the suppliers on sustainable environmental laws pertaining amount of steam used for waste. There is a huge amount of waste sourcing since 2013. The to wastewater treatment dyeing by 25 per cent and materials from fashion industry every company has installed standards. Through making wastewater by 50 per cent. season,” Mitsui writes on her website. ad_da_969_aob_en_09-2014.qxd:ad_969_aob_en_4c_04-2014 23.09.2014 15:33 Uhr Seite 1
H-TYPE 969 CYLINDER ARM MACHINE – FOR EXTREME SEWING APPLICATIONS Excellent stitch pattern and constantly tight stitches, even when sewing with extremely thick threads up to Nm 5/3 Up to 12 mm long stitches for assembly and decorative seams HEAVY – HEAVIER – H-TYPE
High productivity due to the XL barrel hook – 70% larger bobbin capacity in comparison to the standard hook The large clearance and the extremely high sewing foot lift up to 30 mm facilitates the handling of large area workpieces The sewing foot stroke up to 12 mm allows the safe climbing over differently high material plies
DÜRKOPP ADLER AG www.duerkopp-adler.com E-mail [email protected]
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KEY The fall of 2015-16 promises to be a cosy and comfort-driven season. A majority of trends focusing on outerwear indicates that the LOOKS fashion industry is aligning its trends with A/W ’15-16 the dropping temperatures. If innerwear was transformed to outerwear for spring/summer 2015 runways, winter will play by the opposite rules of a coat being converted into a dress. The balloon silhouette, knitted cape and belted robe coat, unanimously hint at a relaxed and calmer theme whereas, the hybrid skirt provides an amalgamation of slit, wrap and asymmetric trend. The direction of the coming winter will be reflective of more masculine silhouettes with a touch of femininity through fabric manipulation or detailing.
Robe Coat
eaving pre-fall’s fascination Lwith bulky blanket coats behind, the upcoming fall’s runway will be flooded with the robe coat. The uncomplicated silhouette achieves novelty in different prints and fabrics with it being presented as a fuzzy emerald coat, cinched with a leather belt or featured in oversized plaid checks. One can focus on comfort with fabric belts tightened at waist, keeping the cosy in; otherwise go for exaggeration by opting for lapels in a solid colour-blocked version. Coats that actually keep warm in chilly winter nights are now a mainstream trend, with Osman Balenciaga forgiving lengths and being easily paired with pants, leggings or Altuzarra Mark Fast simply as separates.
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raditional in its midi- Tlength and chic in its relaxed bottom, the balloon dress is a 1980’s silhouette that epitomizes sophistication with added comfort. It boasts of a fitted or loose upper bodice with a balloon like shape at the hem which ends right above the knee. While this style can be constructed in lightweight fabrics such as cotton, with cinching at waist and neck, a majority will be inclined towards a structured exterior in silks for a casual look and metallic jacquards for an evening look. Prints on calf length dresses can be stitched for casual daytime Emilia Wickstead Simone Rocha purposes or floor length ones with an exaggerated bottom can be adopted for a dramatic Andrew Gn MSGM collection.
Hybrid Skirt
ybrid has been the mood Hof the season and as its application leaves no silhouette, it is most definite that the idea of fusion is the one to be carried forth for a season or two. Fall will see the advent of the deconstructed skirt which takes elements from not only lowers, but in an experimental streak, borrows elements from formal outerwear. The wrap slit skirt of spring will be structured like languid culottes and draped trousers in some cases, and in others, as a trail on roomy shorts. More innovative versions of the wrap skirt, where bondage closures circle the wrap along with a tied version, Dion Lee Roksanda Ilincic which bears resemblance with the lower half of an overcoat, offers multiple possibilities to Daks Eudon Choi the style.
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all will be struck by a wave of Flong lengths, the rendition of which in ‘winter coats’ will emerge as one of the stronger silhouette categories. Conceived as a solid separate and not a flinging outerwear, designers will seek inspiration from varied design elements – double- breasted and wrap coats making a strong case in point. While most versions skip defining a waist, opting to work with a dropped waist on coat dresses as a clear ode to power dressing, other styles where the waist is rather defined with thick waist belts, will hit the notes on sublime femininity. Masculine lapels and crisp collars flanked Diesel Black Gold Fendi by chunky pockets and metallic closures suit the androgynous side of the trend. Antonio Berardi Emporio Armani
Knit Cape
ontinuing last year’s Cfascination with cape coats, designs will transcend to knits for constructing roomy throwovers with a visibly cosy demeanour. While the ones in flat knits have come across as sweater kimonos, in some cases printed, and in others, with thick cable knits-circular knits too make for a promising option. Form-fitting pullovers with an attached shoulder trail or ponchos delivered in blanket fabric ending in tassels, the circular knit styles appeal for their lighter structure and contoured fit. Cardigans have also found a way with the trend as they can be constructed on Barbara Bui Tommy Hilfiger the lines of long cape coats with sleeves and droopy shoulders. DakS Richard Nicoll
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