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Home , 3rd Army Corps (Armenia), Aghavnatun, Aknalich, Aknashen, Aratashen, Arazap

NOTES:

ARMAVIR

ARMAVIRB REGION MAP HHH

a traveler’s reference guide ®

excavations of some of the country’s most famous Highlights cities, from each period of the country’s history. marz B INTRODUCTION Area: 1251 sq. km ²ðزìÆðÙ³ñ½ It is for its Christian history that the marz is most Population: 160300 • Visit , the Seat of the famous for locals and Diaspora , who Marz capital: Armavir and center of the Armenian make pilgrimages to as much to worship ByB RickH Ney Distance from : 48 km Apostolic Church (p. 17) at the ca. 303 cathedral of Echmiadzin as to visit MapsB by RafaelH Torossian Marzpetaran: Tel: (237) 63 716 • Explore , the birthplace of their homeland. And its Christian history is as Edited by BellaH Karapetian Largest City: Vagharshapat (Echmiadzin) brozne, and its 2800 BCE astral dramatic as its ritual, borrowing from Pagan rites

observatory (p. 55) and beliefs that continue to thrive in their Christian TABLEB OF CONTENTS Armavir is Armenia’s Cradle of Civilization; home to some of the oldest cities in the Near East, the context. H • Attend Sunday service (or Feast Day) at INTRODUCTION (p. 3) world’s oldest known forging of bronze, and its first Echmiadzin cathedral; listen to its HNATURE (p. 3) Armavir is featured in Armenia’s Freedom Struggle Christian state. Both are just a few miles from spectacular choir (p. 29) HDO (p. 6) after WWI, and is home of the battle that insured each other, and taken together they explore a HWHEN? (p. 7) the country’s independence, at Sardarapat. A region that is among the oldest and most diverse • Take the Cradle of Civilization Tour, HISTORYH (p. 8) in the world. with excavations of settlements dating to bountiful land with hospitable people and amazing sites, Armavir is a must see on any tourist PEOPLEH (p. 13) 9000 BCE (p. 53) itinerary. INH AND OUT (p. 13) • Visit the World Heritage Sites of OVERNIGHTH / EAT (p. 14) (p. 48), S. Hripsimeh B HHH H NATURE DESTINATIONS (p. 14) (p. 38) and Guyaneh (p. 35) Armavir is the north end of the Ararat valley, NATURE,H ADVENTURE TOURING (p. 15) • Explore Argishtikhinili, the Urartian which lies between the Shirak Plateau, Mt. capital of Armavir marz (p. 57) Aragats, the Geghama Lehr and Mt. Ararat in ECHMIADZINH (p. 17) present day . - BackgroundH (p. 17) • Visit Armavir, the -Orontid - NavigatingH the City (p. 20) capital, one of 3 of Armenia’s ancient

- CityH Sights (p. 20) capitals in Armavir (p. 56)

- EchmiadzinH Complex (p. 24) • Be sure to see Sardarapat Battlefield, - SH Guyaneh (p. 35) where Armenia won its independence - S.H Hripsimeh (p. 38) in 1918. Take time for the excellent - OtherH (p. 41) ethno-museum in the same complex - PracticalitiesH (p. 38) (p. 57)

ZVARTNOTSH (p. 48) • Visit the small and impressive Khoren As you travel Armavir, you travel through the Ter Harutian museum (p. EXPLORINGH THE REGION (p. 52) country’s heartland; a farming area that produces 22) TRIPH 1: NORTHEAST ARMAVIR (p. 52) the lion’s share of the country’s vegetables,

TRIPH 2: CRADLE OF CIVILIZATION (p. 66) especially its succulent tomatoes and crunchy • Explore the Vordan Karmir Preserve, cucumbers, the “bread and butter” on every - ArmavirH (p. 75) the last native habitat for the source Armenian dining table. Among the staggering of ’s gorgeous red TRIPH 3: SOUTH ARMAVIR (p. 85) number and varieties of crops, the marz produces ink; more prized than gold in the TRIPH 4: WEST ARMAVIR (p. 88) several varietals of wine-producing grapes, courts of (p. 86)

considered by connoisseurs among the best semi- Armavir has a diverse ecosystem, encompassing RESOURCESH (p. 92) sweet producers in the country. • Bird watch at the marshlands around desert and semi-desert landscape in its western MAPS Metsamor excavation (p. 69) and in district, which fertile soil springs to life each spring

ArmavirH Marz Map (p. 2) Its history may be the oldest in the country. Set the Karmir Vordan Preserve (p. 86) and when irrigated, large areas of salt and

EchmiadzinH Map (p. 44) on one of the “super highways” of freshwater marshlands, small spring-fed lakes in • Explore the Western Desert, with the settlement, the Arax River, the marz opens to H the valley floor and small stands of woods in Echmiadzin Complex (p. 24) ancient Armenian capitals at Western Armenia and to the west; to riverbeds and isolated locations. ArmavirH City Map (p. 75) (p. 89) and Yervandashat (p. 90) Shirak and the Black Sea corridor to the north; to

the River corridor and the Caspian region Note about pronunciation: I transcribe words into English • Visit the Hovhannes Hovhannessian Even the marz western desert blooms each spring using local dialect, substituting “i” for “y” (Sarigiugh to the NE; and to the lower Ararat valley, Persia House Museum (p. 21) and Mher for a few short weeks with emerald green grass instead of Sarygyugh). Street abbreviations: “p.” stands and the Gulf region to the south. Abeghian museums in Echmiadzin (p. and fields of wild flowers, including rare and for poghots (street), ‘pts.’ for poghotsner (streets), ‘pta.’ 21) endemic Iris, Tulip and Gladiolus. The soil, built for poghota (avenue). GPS coordinates are in decimal A dozen or so settlements inhabit the marz, dating from layers of volcanic ash, is one of the richest in degrees (DD) Latitude x Longitude. Elevation (elev.) is in back to the Stone Age, and the marz has fantastic meters. Population (pop.) is estimated.

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a traveler’s reference guide ® the world. Irrigated farmland extends far into 1980's as part of Gorbachev’s anti-alcoholism misnamed Semiramis or Shamiram canal, even the most parched regions of the marz. program (Armavir and Ararat marz had become a attributed by legend to the Babylonian queen major wine production centers) and western Semiramis, but in fact engineered by King The rich deposits of lava that streamed into the Armavir has mostly returned to its desert state. I or earlier. Further expansion of the canal Ararat Valley from its volcanoes also created network beginning in the 1930’s opened up vast spectacular rock formations and one of the largest tracks of semi-desert land in western Armavir and deposits of tufa and basalt in Europe and Western the area around the town of Armavir. Asia. Most of the quarries in the country are in Armavir, others in Ararat and Aragatsotn marz. Springs, Mineral Springs Do not be deceived by its parched appearance; Armavir is one of the richest sources of water in the country, almost all of it from underground springs that percolate through tufa and basalt fissures under the soil. In primordial times a steaming lake, Armavir’s valley gradually appeared over millions of years as surrounding volcanoes grew dormant, their dying gasps spurting out plumes of steam and hot mineral water. The marz is alternately called Armenia’s orchard Gradually these died out, leaving behind one of the and its garden, for the huge number of fields and largest aquifers in the Near East, the springs yards dedicated to fruit trees; apples, apricots, alternately between cold freshwater and hot cherries, plums, watermelons, strawberries, Water resources Armavir has extensive water mineral springs. While hot mineral springs do raspberries, melons, peaches along a few dozen resources that continue to support large wetland exist in Armavir, they are remote and not very other varieties of fruits, vegetables and nuts. Both areas. Marshlands can be found around Metsamor, plentiful, but if you stumble upon one, you do not the apricot and the peach are said to have their Markara, Old Armavir and Sardarapat; home to a want to miss the chance to drink a little or soak a origins in the Ararat valley, of which Armavir is the diverse waterfowl population, mostly made of toe or two into the soothing liquid. northern part of. Covering huge primordial lakes and swamps, the storks and cranes, the storks nesting on rooftops enriched soil ‘fermented’ over millions of years to and power line poles throughout the entire marz. One can easily recognize freshwater springs by the Other crops includes small fields of cotton (once a create the two largest agricultural valley in There have also been sightings of seagulls and surrounding juicy vegetation and geothermal major source of income, now kept mainly by those Western Asia, the other being the land around Van even the occasional Dalmatian pelican. springs - by outlets fringed with ochre colored wanting to spin their own cloth), and in the far in historic Armenia, present day Anatolia. As late stones. The temperature of springs is close to south, a once thriving silk that is all but as 1300 BCE the valleys were noted by Urartian Much of the water has been shepherded into ponds constant over the year and varied from 4o C in forgotten, save the wild mulberries that crowd the and Assyrian chroniclers as teeming with wildlife and lakes for breeding fish, which has encouraged Alpine springs to 22-55o C in thermae. Freshwater region and their silkworms. and deciduous forests. The museums at Erebuni some diversity in water flora and fauna, but is also springs are situated everyway on the slopes of displays wood trestles logged in the period, created one of the risks facing the marz. Several mountains. What the marz lacks in diversity it more than while excavations at Metsamor have uncovered varieties of reeds, water flowers and ferns thrive in makes up for in the flowers that bloom during its wooden fragments more than 6000 years old. these marshland areas, which themselves are ThermalB and Mineral Springs Thermal Springs short but glorious spring; several varieties of What remains of that great valley forest now are a surrounded by cultivated land or semi-desert in Armavir include several types of mineral waters, Poppy crowd fields of purple Betony and Gundelia few woodlands along river beds, hundreds of small terrain. including calcium, sodium and natural (the “crown of thorns” pollen grains of which were marshlands, semi-desert terrain on the Western Hydrocarbonate. Cold mineral and sweet water found in the Shroud of Turin), yellow verbascum and Southeastern edges and the heavily farmed Armavir is heavily irrigated to produce springs are located near Metsamor and . and purple gladiolus. valley floor. agricultural crops though a system of canals dating back to the Bronze Age, expanded by the Urartu Minerals Armavir has large concentrations of Armavir Flora Flora include several varieties of Much of the deforestation was probably complete Empire between 900-600 BCE. Traces of the volcanic rock (tufa, pumice, perlite) as as orange to red Poppy, Iris (Iris lineolata, I. before the rise of the Urartu Empire in the 10th original canals can still be found in the region and deposits of basalt, gypsum, andesite, limestone, Caucasia), Gladilolus (Gladiolus atroviolaceus), century BCE, the wood used to fuel metal western Yerevan (Armavir border), including the marble and granite. Minerals include trace milk vetch (Astraglis distyophysus) and yellow foundries at places like Metsamor, , Dalma canal, which begins with a 400 meter deposits of quartz, agate, obsidian, amethyst, verbascum; best seen between mid-to-late April Mokhrablur and old Armavir. and its adverse tunnel bored into the side of solid rock to allow andesine, andelusite, emerald, garnet, beryl, and May. Other flora include Nigella oxypetala, affects were recorded as early as the reigns of passage of Hrazdan river waters into the historic turquoise, carnelian, aquamarine and lapis lazuli. Actynolema macrolema, Gundelia tournefortii, Kings Argishti I and Rusa, who both left behind Dalma Vineyards. Verbascum saccatum, Lallemanita iberica, cuneiform tablets attesting to turning “deserts into Flora Armavir’s flora is not as diverse as other Roemeria refracta, Scabiosa argentea, Scorzonera paradise” with their new irrigation systems. The engineering feat of this Urartian tunnel and regions of the country, with water loving plants papposa, Muscari neglecta, Stachys inflata, canal is the forerunner of the “Klahreezes” which thriving in the region’s marshes and river beds, Astragalus distyophysus, A. kochianus, Achillea The same irrigation canals can be found were later built throughout Asia Minor, and the and mountain scrub and drought-resistant plants tenuifolia, Helichrysum rubicundum, and Silene throughout the marz, and modern extensions canal and tunnel are the oldest functioning hydra throughout the rest of the marz. The eastern marz spergulifolia. begun in the 1930’s have reclaimed some of the projects of their kind. Other ancient canals can be is by and large farmland, with fields of irrigated desert areas. Irrigation was restricted in the mid- seen along the road to Echmiadzin, including the crops covering the landscape.

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Wild relatives of crop plants include Cereal species of Armenian flora, and co-author of the in most permanent residents and breeding bird Temminck's Stint; JAEGERS (Stereorariidae): grains (Secale vavilovii Grossh), Cereal- 2008 Flowers of the Transcaucasus and Adjacent species (geese, storks, waders and corvids). Pomarine Jaeger, Long-tailed Jaeger, Parasitic

(Pisum elatius Bieb., Lens orientalis (Boiss.) Areas (ISBN 978-3-906166-34-6; see ResourcesH Jaeger; GULLS & TERNS (Laridae): Little Gull, Shmalh.), Fruits (Armeniaca vulguris Lam.), Online, p. 92). Getting her to guide is not easy In the autumn almost as many spring travelers Lesser Black-backed Gull, Mediterranean Gull,

Vegetable Melons (Beta macrorrhiza Stev etc., (see flower tours under adventureH tour operators, return via the valley on their annual trek to Great Black-headed Gull, Common Black-headed Daucus carota). p. 15) but if you can, do it. She is worth every Southern Africa, augmented by the mild weather Gull, Mew Gull, Slender-billed Gull, Yellow-legged dram. areas around (Armavir) and Arpalich Gull, Armenian Gull Whiskered Tern, White-winged Grapes Armavir—like its southern neighbor Ararat (Shirak). Tern, Black Tern, Caspian Tern, Gull-billed Tern, marz—is most famous for its vegetables and For detailed information and list of species see Common Tern, Little Tern; SWALLOWS & MARTINS grapes. The valley makes up 60% of Armenia’s TourArmeniaH Flora pages Lakes, , Fish Ponds, Wetlands (Hirundinidae): Sand Martin, Red-rumped grape production, and more than 200 kinds of (www.tacentral.com/nature/flora.asp) species include LOONS (Gaviidae): Red-throated Swallow; KINGFISHERS (Aleedinidae): Common grapes from six varietals are grown here - five Loon, Arctic Loon; GREBES (Podicipedidae): Little Kingfisher; WIGTAILS & PIPITS (Motacillidae): Armenian grapes (Mskhali, Garan, Dmak, Fauna Grebe, Horned Grebe, Red-necked Grebe, Great Citrine Wagtail, White Wagtail, Grey Wagtail, Voskehat, Kangun) and one Georgian grape Birds Armavir has the largest variety of birds in Crested Grebe, Black-necked Grebe; Tawny Pipit, Red-throated Pipit, Water Pipit; (Rkatsiteli); used to produce cognac and dessert Armenian with the most species of water-loving CORMORANTS (Phalacrocoracidae): Great WARBLERS (Sylviidae): Cetti's Warber, wines. birds. Bird habitats include marshes around Cormorant, Pygmy Cormorant; PELICANS Grasshopper Warbler, Cetti's Warber, Eurasian Echmiadzin and Metsamor, river mouths and (Pelecanidae): Great White Pelican, Dalmatian River Warbler, Savi's Warbler, Moustached Armavir Flower Watching: Armavir can be an littoral swamps, all of which are experiencing a Pelican; HERONS & BITTERNS ( Ardeidae): Great Warbler, Sedge Warbler, Marsh Warbler, Great excellent part of spring-flowering tours in Armenia, water drop due to over use by private fish ponds. White Egret, Grey Heron, Purple Heron, Cattle Reed-Warbler, Eurasian Reed-Warbler, Paddyfield especially if combined with visits to Ararat, Egret, Little Egret, Squacco Heron, Black-crowned Warbler; PARROTBILLS (Panuridae): Bearded Aragatsotn and Kotaik marz. These are all within Night-Heron, Little Bittern, Great Bittern; STORKS Reedling; BUNTINGS (Emberizidae): Reed an hour or so drive from Yerevan, making them (Ciconiidae): White Stork; CRANES (Gruidae): Bunting, Snow Bunting. easy visits. Extended spring tours add Vayots Demoiselle Crane; IBISES, et al Dzor and Siunik for 7-10 day trips. See our Nature (Threskiornithidae): Glossy Ibis, Eurasian Armenia chapter for detailed itineraries. Spoonbill; FLAMINGOS (Phoenicopteridae): Greater Flamingo (rare); OSPREYS (Pandionidae): Osprey; BUZZARDS, et al (Accipitridae): Western Marsh-Harrier; SWANS, GEESE, DUCKS (Anatidae): Lesser White-fronted Goose, Red- breasted Goose, Greater White-fronted Goose, Greylag Goose, Mute Swan, Whooper Swan, Tundra Swan, Eurasian Wigeon, Gadwall, Common Teal, Mallard, Northern Pintail, Garganey, Northern Shoveler, Marbled Teal, Red-crested Pochard, Common Pochard, Ferruginous Pochard, Tufted Duck, Greater Scaup, White-winged Scoter, Common Goldeneye, Smew, Red-breasted Merganser, Common Merganser, Ruddy Shelduck, The most famous endemic species is the White Common Shelduck, White-headed Duck; RAILS, Stork, which thrives throughout the marz, CRAKES, et al (Rallidae): Little Crake, Baillon's especially the eastern and southern regions, and Crake, Water Rail, Spotted Crake, Common on the Arax River. The stork builds its nests on Moorhen, Purple Swamphen, Common Coot; Scrub species include WAXWINGS top of power line supports, chimneys and special STILTS & AVOCETS (Recurvirostridae): Black- (Bombycillidae): Bohemian Waxwing, SHRIKES rooftop platforms built by villagers to encourage In Armavir, the best places to spot spring flowers winged Stilt, Pied Avocet, Eurasian Oystercatcher, (Laniidae): Red-backed Shrike; ACCENTORS the nesting of this symbol of good luck and are along the (H18) and (M9) in the western marz, White-tailed Lapwing, Northern Lapwing, Spur- (Prunellidae): Dunnock ; THRUSHES, CHATS, et al devotion (storks mate for life). and in the Selav- River canyon (H17) north winged Lapwing, Grey Plover, Sociable Lapwing, (Turdidae): Rufous-tailed Scrub-Robin, Common of Miasnikian (, Lernogog, ). Small Eurasian Golden-Plover, Common Ringed Plover, Stonechat; WARBLERS (Sylviidae): Lesser Bird watching, migrations Armavir and Ararat stands of poppies can be found throughout the Little Ringed Plover, Kentish Plover, Greater Sand Whitethroat; BUNTINGS (Emberizidae): Black- marz have the best places to bird watch in the marz, on rocky hills and in craggy surfaces. A Plover; PHALAROPES (Phalaropodidae): Red- headed Bunting, Snow Bunting; FINCHES spring, at marshes, swamps and along river beds. rather striking group of poppies grow between the necked Phalarope; SANDPIPERS, et al (Fringillidae): Eurasian Linnet; SPARROWS Migrations begin in late March, reaching their peak stone slabs surrounding the 1833 Tsar (Scolopacidae): Ruddy Turnstone, Ruff, Black- (Ploceidae): Eurasian Tree Sparrow; SHRIKES in April and early May. The birds follow a Pillar on the road between Echmiadzin and tailed Godwit, Bar-tailed Godwit, Eurasian Curlew, (Laniidae):Isabelline Shrike. predictable pattern which exacts dates are dictated , another at Shresh Blur tell Whimbrel, Common Sandpiper, Terek Sandpiper, by the annual thaw (give or take 1-2 weeks); outside the village. Wood Sandpiper, Marsh Sandpiper, Green For a complete list of all birds by species and small flocks of migratory water fowl (swans, ducks Sandpiper, Caspian Tern, Common Redshank, habitat see HTourArmenia Birding pages and geese) peak in early April, when they are Guided Tour This tour (half-one day) is part of Common Greenshank, Jack Snipe, Great Snipe, (www.tacentral.com/nature/birding.asp) replaced by waders (sandpipers, snipes) and in botanical tours in Armenia guided by Prof. Nora Common Snipe, Sanderling, Little Stint, Dunlin, late April - early May an increase in nest building Gabrielian, the world’s leading expert on endemic Curlew Sandpiper, Broad-billed Sandpiper, Other Fauna

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a traveler’s reference guide ®

River, Marsh Fish include endemic river fish such (Rhinolophus hipposideros), Mehely's Horseshoe The other is more pressing, and a serious risk. Another risk is the continued destruction of the few as Sturgeon (Accipenser), Cat-fish (Silurus glanis), Bat (Rhinolophus mehelyi), This is the current popularity of using ground and areas of wilderness areas left, especially in the Chanar Barbel (Barbus capito); Galician Crayfish aquifer springs at hundreds of fish farms south and southeast, where bad farming practices (Astacus leptodactylus). Other fauna include Wildcat (Felis silvestris), throughout the marz. There may be 5000 fish have resulted in the salination of farmlands and a Pallas's Cat (Felis manul), Striped Hyena (Hyaena farms in the entire Ararat Valley, almost all of rush to “reclaim” wilderness areas for new fields. Reptiles and Amphibians are everywhere. The hyaena), Red Fox (Vulpes vulpes), Steppe Polecat them artificially created by siphoning off aquifer Weaned on farming in the Soviet days, when herpetofauna includes Marsh Frog (Rana (Mustela eversmannii), Marbled Polecat (Vormela water. The water is not recycled or filtered, but central authorities doled out petrochemical ridibunda), Caspian Tortoise (Clemmys caspica), peregusna), Beech Marten (Martes foina), Eurasian simply dumped into canals or streams where its fertilizers that depleted the soil, and by soil erosion Minor Asian Newt (Tritulus vittatus), grass-snakes Badger (Meles meles). pollution affects freshwater resources downstream. allowing salt deposits largely contained in the 19th (Natrix natrix, N. tesselata), lizards (Darevskia Another result even more serious is the loss of century to return, local farmers are reluctant to unisexualis, D. nairensis). Lizards include the RISKS/ ECO CHALLENGES water pressure. change their ways. The results are bad land upon endangered Persian toad headed sunwatcher, a Cut up for agriculture, the marz faced its greatest bad land, and a loss of livelihood and soil. rare Mediterranean species that can be found ecological risks thousands of years ago, when around the villages of Bagaran, , intensive farming harvested hundreds of hectares One area under threat is the VordanH Karmir Sardarapat, Armavir town and village, , of the region’s only hardwood forests. Even then, Reserve (p. 92), 217 hectares marsh and Parakjar, Musalehr, , Zvartnots and it was not until the end of the 20th century that grasslands that are the last native habitat for the Metsamor. greedy businessmen cut the last forests of Vordan Karmir (Cochineal) insect, and source of hardwood trees, to make furniture with. the deep red used in Bronze Age, Urartian and Medieval cloth dyes and inks. The What remain are a few stands of trees on river reserve is under pressure from nearby farmers and beds, where in the 19th century thick forests a state more interested in selling off public lands covered 20% of the eastern marz. Archeological than preserving a 7,000 year heritage. botanists have uncovered evidence of Bronze Age forests that suggest the marz may in fact have been 50% covered by forests, though these were mostly cut in the Bronze and Iron Age to feed a thriving metal industry.

Efforts by the Armenian Tree Project (ResourcesH Online, p. 92) and other Eco-NGO’s to reforest the The Sturgeon, and endangered species in its native habitat area are ongoing, but they face uphill battles

against local resistance to anything other than Villages and farms downstream from the fisheries “useful” trees (i.e. fruit trees) and local (which ‘bought’ the spring sources for themselves) governmental attempts to take protected forests include the hare (Lepus europaenus), now have no water pressure for their fields or for dachas or wood harvest. Indian Porcupine (Hystrix indica), Caucasian potable water for their homes. Rather than

Squirrel (Sciurus anomalus), Asia Minor Ground reclaiming valuable agricultural land, the country One example it the Fast Growing Tree Project, Squirrel (Spermophilus xanthoprymnus), Edible now faces the problem of village farms closing for which successfully planted an experimental grove dormouse (Glis glis), Small Five-toed Jerboa lack of the one resource Armenia has plenty of, but of fast growing trees in an attempt to show locals (Allactaga elater), Armenian Birch Mouse (Sicista which it lacks because of lucrative but destructive how they can earn additional income by renewable Pollution-obscured Mt. Ararat in the background. armenica), Nehring's Bilind Mole Rat (Nannospalax fishery practices. tree production. The local authorities claimed the nehringi), Turkish hamster (Mesocricetus brandti),

forest for themselves, to subdivide and build elite B HHH Snow Vole (Chionomys nivalis), Dahl's Jird Another risk is pollution, something the entire DO:  dachas on. An international outcry—like that (Meriones dahli), Persian Jird (Meriones persicus), country suffers from, especially the Ararat Valley, Echmiadzin Visit the complex of Echmiadzin, which protected hundreds of hectares of land Tristram's Jird (Meriones tristrami), Vinogradov's which is hemmed in by mountains, creating a believed to be the site visited by Christ in a vision threatened by the new - highway— Jird (Meriones vinogradovi), Striped Field Mouse natural bowl that “cooks” the air during much of by the church founder . has resulted in a rare positive resolution. (See ( agrarius), Yellow-breasted Field Mouse the year. This is made worse by the cement The complex includes the ca. 303 cathedral, with ResourcesH Online, p. 92). (Apodemus fulvipectus), Black Sea Field Mouse factory in Ararat Marz, which pollution streams its beautiful frescoes and incredible cathedral

(Apodemus ponticus), Ural Field Mouse (Apodemus north to Yerevan and Armavir by the prevailing museum displays (including relics of Noah’s ark The major threat to the marz has to do with water; uralensis), Harvest Mouse (Micromys minutus), winds. A 10-fold increase in cars, the natural dust and a piece of the True Cross), the Catholicos the archaic method of irrigating fields results in Afghan Pika (Ochotona rufescens), Southern particulates in the air, and the summer heat all Residency and Treasury, set in an idyllic courtyard significant loss of aquifer water to the atmosphere, White-breasted Hedgehog (Erinaceus concolor), combine to create a miserable period of 6-10 of trees, flowers and grass. Arrange your visit for but the cost of implementing drip irrigation and Armenian Shrew (Crocidura armenica), Radde's weeks in warm weather months. Once immune Sunday Service or a Holy Day, just to witness the conservation methods that are a matter of course Shrew (Sorex raddei), Natterer's bat (Myotis from this stifling problem, winter is now majesty and haunting refrains of the church ritual in the west and (which is the world leader in nattereri), Blasius's Horseshoe Bat (Rhinolophus experiencing some of the same problems, through and singing. reclaiming desert land with minimal moisture) will blasii), Mediterranean Horseshoe Bat (Rhinolophus polluted fog that settles over the region in January take decades to fully implement in Armenia. euryale), Greater Horseshoe Bat (Rhinolophus and February. Cradle of Civilization Tour Take a half-day tour ferrumequinum), Lesser horseshoe bat of Armavir’s “Fertile Crescent”, stopping at excavations of ca. 8000-5000 BCE settlements at

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Mokhrablur, Adablur and Metsamor. The museum in Armenia, arguably the best museum in autumn, the weather is milder and the going is Echmiadzin to water fights and “bucket baptisms” excavations are easy to find and just as easy to the country. easier. at every village. explore, with Metsamor boasting a compact museum with artifacts from each period of its Western Wilderness Explore the western Camping can be had at Aknalich and near the Many prefer autumn, when cooler weather takes existence. Sites include cyclopic stone walls, wilderness, a lunar landscape of desert and semi- Metsamor excavations (marshland), and near over, and warm days pass into cool nights. worship stones, and, at Metsamor, extensive desert terrain, rock and lava fields inhabited by villages, which orchards provide some tree cover Though the landscape is not as beautiful as spring, excavations of the citadel and metal foundry. scrub, wildflowers and grass fields that bloom for a (be sure and ask). The views of Mt. Ararat in the the harvest is in, and you get the bonus of feasting few short weeks in spring. The land is an amazing morning mists are well worth the open space and on mouth-watering fruits and vegetables just Armavir has a dozen more excavations, including contrast of colors, and will remind anyone from the lack of privacy. The western desert (Mts. picked from the fields. sites at Vacheh, Gai, , Karakert, Mrgastan, American Southwest of their home. The area Spitakblur and Sevblur) also provide rugged, open Dasht, Aigeshat, , Aragats, includes rare endemic species of flowers and vistas. Winters are snowy and cold, its dormant nature , and Tsaghkunk, among others. remains of two of Armenia’s most important punctuated by the beautiful Christmas service at ancient cities, Bagaran and Yervandashat. Sadly, Echmiadzin, which is decked out with lights and a WHEN?B HHH permission is required to enter the border region crèche for the feast day. Because of the snow, ice The best time to visit Armavir is Spring, when the and view these sites from across the Arax River, and cold, few travel the marz in winter, and roads wildflowers are in full bloom and an otherwise permission that is seldom given and sometimes can be blocked or closed, locals settling in for a desert landscape turns emerald green and ignored by Russian solders guarding the border. long winter’s sleep. expanses of yellow, red and white flowers take

over otherwise brown fields. Flowers begin their bloom at the first thaw, and reach peak bloom in April, the season sometimes stretching to the end of May. Spring weather is also milder, allowing a more pleasant exploration of a region that is uncomfortably sultry (south and east) or parched (west) in summer.

Metsamor Observatory Be sure to climb the stone observatory at Metsamor, to see the star map carved on the rock surfaces (there are almost 1000 tiny depressions on the surface, in patterns that are thought by some to form a map of the night sky, highlighting important star positions, constellations—even signs of the zodiac). Northeast In the shadow of Yerevan and HOWB LONG? Echmiadzin, Armavir’s northeast has a string of Armavir is easily reached by car from Yerevan, and Armavir-Argishtikhinili Visit the extensive 8th c old-world villages resettled in the 19th century by all trips can be done in half-day to one-day BCE Urartian fortress of Argishtikhinili (next to descendants of Persian and Western Armenian excursions. Take a half day to explore the Haikavan) and the Bronze Age-Hellenistic capital of refugees, on top of prehistoric and medieval Echmiadzin complex (Zvartnots, Cathedral, S. Yervanduni (Orontid) Armenia, Armavir. Each site settlements. The area is as full and lush as the Hripsimeh and Guyaneh). Follow that by visits to is within sight of the other, and each offers a western marz is parched and deserted. Armavir’s “Cradle of Civilization” sites at fascinating glimpse into their separate worlds, Spring is also a wonderful time to visit Echmiadzin, Mokhrablur, Adablur and Metsamor, then the replete with walls, foundations, and thousands of Sites include the Neolithic at a stone especially at Easter, which—depending on the Urartu and Hellenistic citadels of Argishtikhinili and shards from each period of their existence. quarry near Aghavnatun, tells and date—appears at the beginning of spring thaw or Armavir, winding up at Sardarapat with its Urartian fortresses and remains of some of the during peak blooming season. memorial and excellent ethnographic museum for Sardarapat The battlefield memorial of oldest churches in the country. The road north of a full day trip. Sardarapat is de-rigueur for Diaspora Armenians Echmiadzin—passing these impressive historic By mid-May the days are already hot, and at witnessing the 1918 victory by Armenians armed sites—leads to Aragatsotn marz, passing Echmiadzin and Armavir it is uncomfortably humid. A two day visit would add the Church Treasury with nothing more than pitchforks and courage and Agarak on its way to Mt. Aragats. Summers are long and hot, lasting until October. Museum and old Residence and other sites in against far better armed Turkish soldiers. Daytime temperatures regularly reach 40ºC, Vagharshapat City to Echmiadzin on the first day, Natural Armavir seldom dropping below 30 ºC. Summer is still the then take the Cradle of Civilization sites The battle ended in a rout of the Turkish army and Natural treks include exploring the western marz busiest season of the year, more because (Mokhrablur, Adablur, Metsamor), adding Aknalich, led to the formation of the First Republic, an 18 between Vanand and Karakert, and (if permission worldwide tourism peaks at the same time. The Armavir and Argishtikhinili and Sardarapat on the month experiment in democracy that ended in the granted) the Arax canyon between Yervandashat water-strewn feast of Vardavar (mid July) takes second day, traveling at a more leisurely pace. creation of the Soviet Republic in 1921. The and the Aragatsotn Border. There are no forests over the marz, from the Sunday service at Take half day to explore the northeast villages, memorial includes the largest ethnographic to rest or camp in, and the treks are difficult in the including the petroglyphs at Aghavnatun and the sun-blasted months of summer, but in spring and

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a traveler’s reference guide ® beautiful 7th c Tarkmanchats at Aigeshat; and of , and the birth of its first democratic what experts say is the first calendar in the world, another half day to visit the south marz prehistoric republic. showing the four seasons and a spinning spherical sites at Vacheh and Gai and the Vordan Karmir world. preserve by J’rarat. The western marz can also be PREHISTORIC AGE HHH traveled in a half day (take a full day if you get In legend, the founding of the marz and its name permission to visit Bagaran and Yervandashat and is traced to Haik, the mythical founder of the hike the Arax River canyon), driving through the Armenian race. His grandson, Aramais, is said to desert hills to Karakert, with its excavation of ca. have settled here, giving the region his name. 9000-4000 BCE Aratashen. Perhaps explaining the proliferation of the Indo- Europeans into the valley, his descendants were all Hitting the Highlights Armavir Heartland: born here, from whence they spread throughout Zvartnots, Echmiadzin Complex, Mokhrablur, the country. They were Amassia, Aram, and Adablur, Metsamor, Argishtikhinili, Old Armavir, Anushavan-Sosanver, the last the founder of a and Sardarapat (1-2 days). Northeast: Argavand, religious cult which worshipped at sacred groves of Zvartnots, Dasht, Aigeshat, Aghavnatun, Aragats, Platan (Plane) Trees near Old Armavir and Tsaghkunk (half-day). South: Gai, Vordan Karmir, Bagaran, listening to the rustling of leaves to The successful smelting of bronze (along with gold, Markara, Nalbandian (half-day). West: Bagaran, predict the future (Hey, others ‘read’ the entrails silver and magnesium) and the mining of precious Yervandashat, Karakert (half-day). of butchered bulls—at least this was less messy). gems transformed the agrarian civilization in Armenia into to an urban one: the first signs of The development of in the area (6th- fortified cities are traced to this era: Metsamor The Indo-Europeans One of the greatest HISTORYB HHH 4th millenniums BCE) saw a rapid development of evolutions in history occurred when Indo- As you travel through (which incomplete excavation shows signs of cities, fortified megalithic walls and evidence of Europeans began to migrate throughout Asia and Armavir, you will spot settlement as early as 7000 BCE), Dari Blur early warfare and invasion. The unsettled history Europe. Classical historians put this event sudden eruptions in the (Armavir), Aratashen Blur, and Adablur. of Armenia began early. sometime in the 3rd millennium BCE and thought terrain, low hills that the source for Indo-Europeans were someplace in seem to appear from In the 4th millennium BCE the first fortified walls Prehistoric Central Asia. New studies place the source of the nowhere. They do not "fit" of L’chashen had been erected by Lake Sevan, (Chalcolithic/Neoli Indo-European culture on or near the Armenian the land's contour. These while in Armavir cities at Metsamor, Aigevan and thic levels) sites in Plateau, with migrations into Asia and Europe are the remains of the Aigeshat were firmly established. By 4000 BCE a Armavir include beginning as early as 7,000 BCE. first urban civilization to large kingdom was established around Metsamor lower level leave its imprint in with pilot cities at Mokhrablur, Jerahovit, Lejapi excavations at Moving first into Historical Armenia, Blur, Voski Blur (Voski means "golden" in Aratashen, Central Asia and Armenia's "Cradle of Armenian), and a settlement now known as Mokhrablur, Adablur in the East, Civilization". Echmiadzin. and Vacheh; then the Balkans

chalcolithic tells at and Europe in the The culture was the earliest known to process The Metsamor Culture Metsamor is distinct for Zvartnots, Teghut West, successive bronze and iron, and are believed to be among the its large size (it may have held 50,000 people at (Echmiadzin), Vacheh, Tsaghkalanj, Mrgastan and waves of Indo- first (if not the first) astronomers, mapping the its height in the mid to late Bronze Age), and its Tsaghkunk; the important 6th-2nd m BCE Europeans night sky as early as the 3rd millennium BCE. focus on metal production, which vastly enriched settlement of Khatunarkh at Gai; petroglyphs at culminated in a the kingdom; Bronze was a far superior substance the stone quarry near Aghavnatun. ca. 2000 BCE migration into the Eastern While Kotaik claims the oldest found humanoid in to forge tolls and weapons with, and the secret of Mediterranean which hallmarks the beginning of Armenia, and Yerevan the oldest settlement, its production was still controlled by the tribes in COPPER / BRONZE AGE HHH the Greek Doric culture. Armavir claims the oldest cities, beginning with the region which gave them great influence and Copper-Bronze Age (7000 - 2000 BCE) Aratashen (7000 BCE), Mokhrablur (ca. 6000 BCE) wealth (as example, the Egyptians were not to at Metsamor, Aghavnatun and on the Geghama Experts again point to the petroglyphs in Armenia and Metsamor (5000 BCE), the latter with the discover the process until the mid 3rd m BCE, by Lehr include sophisticated celestial iconography, to find the origins of a written language and the oldest known bronze forges in the world and a which time the Metsamorians were already including the signs of the zodiac. Two indo-European root sounds, among them the letter 2800 BCE astronomical observatory. These are learning the process of forging Iron). observatories found in Armenia show a developed “Ah”, the first letter of all Indo-European conservative estimates; a growing body of awareness of astronomy at least around 2800 BCE alphabets. historians believes that given increasingly older Metsamor’s trade with the outside world increased (Metsamor), and possibly as early as 5000 BCE dates being placed on excavation sites throughout as its metal foundries flourished; cylinder seals, (Karahundj site in Siunik). Using astronomy, Copper-Bronze Age sites in Armavir include the the region, it is plausible these settlements may be jewelry, idols and pottery flowed between the Ancestral Armenians developed a calendar based museum, excavated citadel and observatory at 1000-2000 years older. Ararat Valley city and the great empires of the on 365 days, one of the first compasses, and were Metsamor; Bronze Age levels at Mokhrablur, day; Sumeria, Assyria and . able to envision the shape of the world as round. Adablur and Aratashen; the Teghut Tell just S of And while Armavir’s history reached back to the The appearance of the signs of the zodiac in Echmiadzin; the city of Khatunarkh near Gai; dawn of civilization, it also was at the heart of the The Metsamorians left behind thousands of glyphs Armenia occurred before the Hittite and Babylonian Bronze Age towns at Mrgastan, Aigeshat, country’s development through the next several and symbols on their rocks; some are early maps kingdoms, which were heretofore credited with Aghavnatun, , Arevik, Karakert thousand years; with no less than four of the of the region, showing towns, fields and irrigation developing astronomy. (Aratashen settlement); Bronze Age tomb country’s historic capitals, the kingdom’s birthplace channels while others record the positions of the five known planets, constellations of the stars, and mounds at Tsaghkalanj.

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a traveler’s reference guide ®

Alexander the Great and the collapse of the Empire ORONTID (YERVANDUNI) DYNASTY IRON AGE HHH in 333 BCE. In 323 Armavir became part of

Around 2000 BCE, a second wave of Indo- Greater Armenia, the largest of the three Armenian Orontid Kings in Armenian tradition European migration began, this time coming full provinces of the , though it circle back to the Armenian plateau. Thousands of retained a great deal of autonomy and Yervanduni • Sakavakyats (570-560 BC) years of development created distinct dialects and (Orontid) rulers treated their lands as a sovereign • Orontid (560-535 BC) physical attributes, which further influenced the kingdom. • (530-515 BC) "mother tribes" in Armenia, among them the tribes inhabiting Armavir settlements at Aratashen, The region became important as the center of • Hidarnes I (late 6th c. BC) Adablur, Mokhrablur and Metsamor. power for the Yervanduni Dynasty (336-189 BCE), • Hidarnes II (early 5th c. BC) which actually rose to power as lords during Hidarnes III (middle of 5th c. BC) This second wave of tribes (called the in 2nd the reign of the Persian (590-530 • m BCE Assyrian chronicles) clashed with their BCE). Xenophon mentions an Armenians king • Ardashir (2nd half of 5th c. BC) mother tribes, resulting in the destruction of named Tigranes (Tigran) who was a favorite of Metsamor and surrounding towns; excavation Cyrus and hunting mate, and Armenian chronicles Attested Kings and levels from this period are uniformly blackened, trace the Orontid dynasty to the reign of Orontes I • Orontes (401-344 BC) the cities burned to the ground, with heaps of Sakavakiats (570-560). Darius Codomannus (344-336 BC) skeletons lying scattered outside citadel walls. •

The Yervanduni Kings built both their capitals in Armavir’s largest Urartian city was on the twin Orontid Dynasty The new Iron Age buildings began to use every the marz. Choosing a spot favorable for defense bluffs of Argishtikhinili and Old Armavir, built on larger cyclopic stones placed in multiple layers on a bend of the Arax River, the Yervandunis • Orontes I (336-331 BC) top of the ruins of Neolithic-Bronze Age around tall hills. It must have been a chaotic time, created their first capital in 331 on the regional Mithranes (331-323 BC) settlements at the site. Built for Argishti I, the city • for the fortresses are gigantic; made to withstand capital of Armavir, controlled the upper Ararat Valley, linked to the • (non-dynastic) (323 BC) great attack while positioned to spot enemy the right bluff of center at Erebuni by fortresses at Aragats and intrusion from a distance. Argishtikhinili • (non-dynastic) (323-321 BC) Karmir Blur. When Erebuni fell, Argishtikhinili (next to present became the largest Urartian city in the east, its • (non-dynastic) (321 BC) The period is marked by the rise of the L’chashen day Haikavan). eastern bluff the base for the 4th c BCE Orontid Mihran (321-317 BC) culture, which borrowed metal working, fire The capital thrived • city of Old Armavir. worship and star gazing from the Metsamorians until 302, when • Orontes II (317- 300 BC) while instilling religious beliefs and rituals unique the unpredictable Urartian sites in Armavir include the huge • Sames (260-243 BC) for the area (the L’shashens buried their dead in Arax River excavated city-fort of Argishtikhinili (Haikavan) chariots and wagons sunk into the waters of Lake decided to move • Arsames I (243-226 BC) and its twin Old Armavir; the fortress-settlement Sevan). While no one knows the names these west about 50 • Charaspes at Aragats; Yervandashat; minor fortresses at tribes called themselves, we have the names given kilometers, Aragats, Dasht, Aigeshat, Aghavnatun; cuneiform • Arsames II by Urartians who conquered the area in the 9th c leaving Armavir inscriptions found at Armavir village and on display BCE: the Yerturni, Kuliani, Erikuakhi and Velikuni. high and dry. • Xerxes (226-212 BC) at Zvartnots; Urartu level settlements/fortresses at Orontes IV then • Abdissares (212 BC) Metsamor and Karakert. Iron Age sites include the settlement at Gai and moved his seat to • Orontes III (212–200 BC) cyclopic fortresses at Dasht, Aghavnatun, present HELLENISTIC & ROMAN ERAS HHH Yervandashat and the large fortress at Karakert. Yervandashat, • Seleucid rule (200-189 BC) Almost immediately following the collapse of Iron Age finds were also found in layers of across the river Artashesian rule (189-163 BC) Urartu, the tribes in the Armenian plateau • settlement at Metsamor, Mokhrablur and Adablur from their reorganized into a new kingdom, the Armen or as well as at Old Armavir and Argishtikhinili. religious center at Arameh. Greek records began calling them Bagaran. Armenians, and their kingdom "Armenya". The Parthian era begins with the ascendancy of URARTIAN EMPIRE HHH Armavir became part of the Armenian Satrapy the Parthian King Arshaces in 238 BCE, and The Urartian King Argishti I crossed the Arax River Despite its sudden under Persian rule, becoming a backwater of the incursions into Armenia throughout the 2nd c BCE. and penetrated the ca 786 BCE. He drop to number two status, Armavir continued to . Very few artifacts from this Roughly parallel with the Roman period, the and his son, Sardur I, expanded the empire as far thrive throughout the Yervanduni Era, continuing period have been found in the region, though there Parthians had great influence on the Armenians, as the far shores of Lake Sevan, and to the edges into the Roman and medieval period as a regional was continuous inhabitation of Echmiadzin (known including the designation of a line of kings over of modern , incorporating most of present- center, town then fortified village that was finally as “Karlini”, also spelled "Qarlini"), Argishtikhinili their Indo-European kinsmen and forebears from day Armenia into the empire. In Armavir, the deserted in the 18th century. and Metsamor during the entire period. Armavir the (T’rdat I was the brother of the Urartians erected a number of fortresses and soldiers were recruited by Darius I to fight the Parthian King Vologeses I, suggesting Parthians outposts, which served to both suppress local By the time they deserted Armavir for the high life in 490, and exposure to the Classic Greek and Armenian rulers are from the same race) and rebellions and foreign invaders, while serving as to the west, Armavir’s inhabitants had deposited culture is traced to this era. the introduction of a form of Zoroastrian fire communication relay points; signals from post to 200 years of living and prosperity on the hills of worship to the kingdom. post could relay warnings from the farthest stretch the old city, evidence of which regularly surfaces The in Armavir officially of the empire to its capital at within hours. each spring thaw and after each hard rain. begins with the invasion of Persia by the armies of Already worshippers of the elements, Armenians— distantly related to their Indo-Iranian cousins and

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a traveler’s reference guide ® to the Parthians through intermarriage in the royal temples or lined the roads of the kingdom, only houses—readily incorporated the Zoroastrian The story of the conversion itself and the one fragment of one bronze statue, the head of Some districts readily converted to the new aspects of fire worship to their own pantheon, controversy surrounding its dating and reasons are , survives, housed in the British Museum. It religion, while there were others in which the which was also based on the sun. Parthians covered in detail in the section on EchmiadzinH (p. is also believed by many that among the religious pagan element was more deeply rooted and introduced another aspect to the worship, which 17), but its result was immediate and total. By items destroyed were all involved economic and social interests. Pagan was the fire pit itself, and adopted in turn idols declaring itself now a Christian country, Armenia records of the early, or priests, who, thanks to their position had been from Armenians and other sources. severed any tie it had with Persia, which still old, Armenian script. This able to amass large fortunes, controlled large worshipped the old religion based on fire. old text was replaced with numbers of peasants who cultivated their lands, ROMAN ERA Seleucid influence ended with their the Greek and Syrian used whom they could arm to fend off threats to their defeat by the Romans in 189 BCE, who allowed the Perhaps even more revolutionary, when Grigor in the early Christian rites hegemony. The conversion of the country, two former Seleucid satraps to set up independent Lusavorich baptized King T’rdat III, who then of the Near East. This imposed from above, did not always take place in Armenian states. A local general named Artaxias ordered the conversion of his court, this severed would be easy to do, since a peaceful manner. It took another 150 to 200 (Artashes) declared himself King of Greater cultural ties with Rome. Christian Armenia no and Greek had years to complete a conversion that many say is Armenia in 189 BCE with its capital at Artashat, 30 longer worshipped a pantheon of Greco-Roman become the languages of still ongoing. km south of Yerevan. gods from which at least one (Mythra) it had itself the court centuries before. introduced to the . After T’rdat’s death, the seat of power was moved Later kings ruled over And of the hundreds of by his successor Khosrov II in 335 to , and a country that still Greco-Roman temples in Vagharshapat began to fall into decline. The controlled the trade Armenia before the region remained a part of the Arshakuni holdings routes between Asia conversion, only a handful up to the fall of the house of Arshakuni in 428, and the West, which survived, and only one following the invasion of the kingdom by a was named the Silk survived intact—the renewed Sassanid Empire and the Battle of Way in the 2nd c. temple at Garni. Another, Avarair. Thereafter, it was divided and contested BCE, and which gave the temple to Mher between the inheritors of power in Armenia, the Armavir unimagined (Mythra) recorded in Marzpanate governors and the , wealth. Perhaps historic chronicles, was recently found during princely families, and a fledging because of this, excavations of Artashat, though it survives only in house of newcomers, the Bagratunis. Armenia found itself fragments. at the fulcrum of a fight between the new super When the Catholicos moved the Holy See to Dvin powers, Rome and , for control of Asia. The Others were simply demolished, over which new sometime in the 470s, Vagharshapat—and Artashesian kings attempted to placate each side, churches were built, or hastily converted by Armavir—became backwaters of the country, or to play one off the other to preserve Armenian placing a cross over their entry and reversing the rarely mentioned in the chronicles. It would be autonomy, but they were not always successful; position of the altar, from west to east. Of the first another 150 years before the marz was again in 163 the Romans devastated the region, type, Echmiadzin is the most famous example; it mentioned in the affairs of the country. assuming renewed domination over Armenia. Grigor Lusavorich, 14th c , Pammakaristos was completely rebuilt over the ruins of a fire (). temple to Mythra or Vahagn, though the original Early Christian sites include the 4th c. cathedral Hellenistic/ Roman sites in Armavir include Old fire pit and the column bases for the old temple of Echmiadzin, the martyria of Ss. Hripsimeh and Armavir Fortress-City, the Orontid religious center Normally overly-patriotic Armenian historians are survived. Guyaneh and the shrine at Shoghakat; the central at Bagaran and the Yervanduni Capital of silent on this point, but others suggest that the spot at Zvartnots cathedral where Grigor met and Yervandashat, built to replace Armavir. Armenian conversion itself may have triggered The crusade was not always peaceful, with rich supposedly converted T’rdat III to Christianity; the conversions throughout the Near East, leading to and powerful pagans pitted against the Armenian lower portion of Tarkmanchats vank at Aigeshat; the conversion of Rome. Perhaps spurious, but it Royal house. Several catholicos were martyred in the at Yervandashat and Bagaran; Tukh

EARLY CHRISTIAN PERIOD HHH does explain why a subject state of Rome this period, among them Grigor's progeny Manuks at Arevashat, Aghavnatun, Tsaghkalanj, By the time of the conversion, Armavir had (however nominally), ruled by a personal friend of Vertanes, Aristakes, Nerses, and Husik Petros, the . become prosperous and important. It was home the Emperor, would have made so bold as to reject latter bludgeoned to death in a dispute over the to the seat of the king and a throughway for the Roman gods, at the height of Roman construction of a church over a pagan site. MEDIEVAL PERIOD HHH caravans plying the Silk Road to Roman colonies in persecution. The early Christian era is marked by the struggle Anatolia. Rome and Persia still vied for control of The conversion was also an astute political move. of the Armenians to maintain independence in the the country but the Arshakunis had by and large The Pagan Wars For whatever reason and By converting to Christianity and then appointing face of Sassanid attempts to subdue and successfully navigated between the two super however it actually played out, Grigor and T'rdat Grigor (a fellow Parthian) as the first patriarch or apostatize the Armenians back to fire worship. powers, giving obeisance to each while maintaining did initiate a campaign to squash the old religion, Catholicos over the Armenian church, T'rdat some autonomy. The situation change sharply beginning with the Temples of Vahagn and Anahit insured continued Parthian control over both Widely declared the singular event that saved the when the Parthian House in Persia—related to the at Ashtishat in Mush (in present day Turkey). government and religion. Armenian culture from Sassanid assimilation, in Armenian dynasty through generations of inter- fact the adoption of the Mashtots alphabet was but marriage—suddenly fell to a nationalistic and much Soon the "crusade" was nationwide. Pagan statues This was not lost on their rivals, and the lack of one important step in cementing the country and more dangerous Sassanid dynast, which sought and icons were smashed or melted down, and unity between the new Christian ruling class and a creating what is now accepted what it means to be the immediate end of Armenian autonomy, and the crosses were set in their place. Of the tens of pagan population grew, despite the official church “Armenian”. The Pagan wars continued, destruction of its Arshakuni (Parthian) House. thousands of pagan statues that stood inside line of mass conversion. encouraged by Sassanids to counter the

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a traveler’s reference guide ® independence efforts of the church and state. reign of the Catholicos Nerses III (the Builder), Even the Greek Empire at who many feel completed the conversion of the The Bagratuni era ended when the Byzantines frustrated Armenian attempts to throw of the country by restoring parishes lost to Sassanid conquered a weakened Armenian state, which was Persian yoke, angered at Armenian refusal to paganism and building churches throughout the then unable to stave off Seljuk Turkish invaders in adopt the Orthodox doctrine on the question of country. the mid 11th c. The Seljuks were much worse Christ’s true nature. than the Arabs; they had no interested in The greatest of these was at Zvartnots, or Angelic preserving a prosperous subject state, instead Forces, the reputed site of the meeting between choosing to raid, plunder and destroy what they Grigor Lusavorich and T'rdat III, which began the could not take. conversion of the country. Destruction of all towns and religious monuments are found from this period, as were reports of widespread famine and disease (a disease much like the Plague is suggested in some descriptions).

Zvartnots was a significant achievement, the The region rebounded in the late 12th century, largest church in the world when it was completed when the Seljuks were driven out by a coalition of in 661. The Byzantine Emperor Constans II Georgian and Armenian armies led by the attended the dedication, and is reputed to have Armenian generals Zakareh and Ivaneh Zakarian. been so impressed by the magnificent building he The Zakarians fostered a new Golden Age of jealously ordered the architect to create a grander culture in the country, sponsoring new churches version in Constantinople. throughout the region, including the S. Tovmas Arakeal church at village in Armavir. The The effort unified much of the country, though caravan routes returned, bringing greater wealth. Nerses continued to battle nakharars led by Theodore Rshtuni who had mainly chosen titular The Mongol invasions in the mid 13th century Arab rule over complete control by Byzantines. On brought the golden era to an end, and the region went into further decline, accelerated by Nerses’ death, the country slipped into Arab rule, successive waves of 14th c Tatar (Ak-Koyunlu and The construction began about the time of the first though it maintained an amount of political and Kara-Koyunlu) raids and, worst of all, the 14th- Arab invasion, in 640. Attempting to stave religious autonomy, especially under the 15th century Timurid invasions, which completely pillaging of the country by the Arabs, Armenian Umayyads. devastated the region. Led by a rabidly vindictive nakharars decided to sue for peace. This enraged Lenk (Timur Lame or Tamurlane), Timurids After the fall of the Arshakuni kings in 428, the the Byzantines who had refused to help the Armenian revolts in the late 8th and 9th centuries slaughtered the population and leveled towns and aristocratic houses fell into disarray, the Armenians, demanding they adopt the Greek were ruthlessly repressed, and Armavir suffered churches in their way. squabbling nakharar houses further frustrating Chalcedonian doctrine first. Nerses favored union invasion and large scale destruction. One of these attempts to unify the country. Add to this the with the Greeks over subservience to Arabs, and Arab raids is believed to have resulted in the This was the nadir of Armavir’s history, when the intensifying battle between Persia and Rome (now for this was driven out by the nakharars. When burning of Zvartnots cathedral and the removal of entire region became a wasteland (the chronicles a Greek Empire based in Constantinople) to control the Greeks drove out Arabs and took control of the key stones that led to its collapse in a 10th c recorded cannibalism and the sale of flesh the country, with competing armies wreaking country, Nerses was reinstated in Dvin and began earthquake. by a starving population). Those who could, havoc on the country. his rejuvenation of the church in earnest, including emigrated to or Byzantium, their place the cathedral at Zvartnots. In 648 he convened Arab rule ended in the taken by Kurdish and Tatar tribesmen who used The struggle in Armavir is best summed by the the council of Dvin, which accepted the Council of late 9th century, and the empty fields for pasturage. departure of the Catholicos to Dvin in the 470s and Chalcedon, bringing it back into communion with in 885 the Bagratuni the dearth of construction of churches in the marz. the Roman Orthodox Church, though based on the Ashot I (the Great) Medieval Sites include (7th century) Zvartnots Except for the renovation of the main cathedral at Monotheist compromise. assumed the throne Cathedral, Ss. Hripsimeh, Guyaneh and Shoghakat Echmiadzin ca. 486 (sponsored by the Greek of the new Armenian in Echmiadzin, Tarkmanchats vank in Aigeshat, appointed governor Vahan Mamikonian, whose kingdom. Centered in Karmravor in Aghavnatun; (7th-9th centuries) seat was just north in Aragatsotn marz and whose the 10th century renovations of Echmiadzin cathedral and Ss. donation can be seen as much an attempt to capital of , the Hripsimeh, Guyaneh, Shoghakat; (8th century) cement his house as the true head of Armenia as it Bagratunis ruled over Bardughimeos church and buildings at Aknashen; was a pious act to renovate the dilapidated mother a prosperous, if fractured, kingdom, and Armavir (10th century) S. Gevorg and S. Shushanik at church), church-building had practically come to a benefited from the relative peace. Its churches Yervandashat; (12th c) Tovmas Arakeal at complete halt. were enlarged and the Silk Road was reopened Amberd; (13th c) the funerary monument at under Bagratunis, the marz benefiting from being Aghavnatun and S. Harutiun church at Samaghar; After 150 years of relative obscurity in the affairs located on the Dvin-Ani road. Most of the (14th c) Tsiranavor at Aghavnatun, Astvatsatsin at of state (which focus laid on Dvin and the western churches in the region date themselves to this and S. Karapet pilgrimage shrine at provinces) Armavir suddenly reappears during the period, when their early Christian structures were strengthened, and sometimes enlarged.

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Arshaluis. Other sites include the medieval horrific tails of Turkish slaughter of up to 2 million settlement and graveyard at Tsaghkalanj. The marz was repopulated by Armenians who compatriots. As refugees poured into the region immigrated from Turkey and Persia after the many made their way to Echmiadzin, where they DARK AGES (15th-18th Russo-Persian and Russo-Turkish wars, with begged help from the church.

CENTURIES) HHH additional migrants following the Russo-Turkish The 15th-16th cc are war of 1877. Most villagers trace their history to For reasons never completely explained, the marked by continued war these two periods. Catholicos reacted by shutting refugees out of the and destruction played compound, and it took the intervention of upon an exhausted The economy boomed from the mid-19th century Hovhannes Tumanian to let them in (when citizenry by the new to the 20th, as Armenian schools, colleges and challenged by the Catholicos at the gates, who super powers in the seminaries were established and flourished. The said, “Do you know who you are talking to? I am neighborhood; Ottoman Gevorkian academy (Seminary) in Echmiadzin the Catholicos of Armenia,” Tumanian famously Turkey and Safavid fostered the careers of the most prominent retorted, “Do you know who you are talking to? I Persia, spent 150 years members of the Armenian bourgeoisie, including am the poet of Armenia!” and forced the patriarch warring over the region the “father of modern ”, to open the gates to the refugees.). before agreeing to a , the linguist and translator partition of the country in Hovhannes Hovhannessian, and such 19th--20th Sardarapat Russian troops deserted the region 1639 which gave the 15th-18th centuries sites include the 1413 century luminaries as Yeghishe Charents, after the abdication of the Tsar and a truce was lion’s share of Armenian Islamic (Timurid or Kara-Koyunlu) funerary Hovhannes Tumanian and Alexander Shirvanzade, made between Lenin and Turkey, which threw the lands to Ottoman Turkey, monument at Argavand, Echmiadzin renovations and the composer and Armenian musicologist region into a panic. Turkish troops that had been sporadic fighting and S. Shoghakat and Astvatsatsin in Echmiadzin . chased to central Anatolia regrouped and began a continued until the end of city; S. Gevorg at Aigeshat; the round tower at counter offensive, intent on finishing the the 18th century. Aghavnatun. The nineteenth century also fostered a lively and eradication of the Armenian people and linking contentious nationalist movement, which was Turkey with Turkish speaking Tatars in the Caspian

Initially, Persian rule meant forced emigration of 19th CENTURY HHH repressed by Russian authorities, but which grew region, not yet named . In 1918 the Armenians into ; especially during the reign of entered the scene in the late 1790’s taking nonetheless. As the century drew to a close Turks began their attacks in earnest, routing Abbas I, who in 1604 led a forced march of Caspian lands from the Iranians and conquering nationalist and with socialist cells increasingly Armenian held positions in Erzerum, and hundreds of thousands of Armenians to Tavriz and territories in Georgia and northern Armenia. The cooperated and set the stage for the independence finally, Alexandropol (Giumri). Splitting into two Jhulfa in the wake of Ottoman invasion. This Safavids responded by fortifying military movement that would burst on the world stage armies, they began a final attack on the country, continued into the mid 17th century. installations in the region, including the fortress of with the events of the genocide and the Russian one army heading east to Kharakilisa () Sardari near modern Hoktember, with British revolution. As one of the country’s most important and the other to Echmiadzin and Yerevan. At the height of the Turkish-Persian wars, Armavir assistance. The fortress was also a summer intellectual centers, Echmiadzin and Armavir were changed hands fourteen times between 1513 and residence for Sardar Hussein Qoli Khan, the last at the forefront of the movement. 1737. Muslim subjects of the continued to Iranian governor of the khanate. move into the barren Armenian lands, settling in 19th century sites include the 1810 fortress of historic Armenian towns and villages, felling At the time of the Russian conquest in 1828, Sardari Berd and 19th century reconstructions of forests and converting verdant farmlands into Armavir was considered a Muslim principality churches at Argavand, Geghanist, , pasturage. Most of Armavir’s villages are built under the dominion of the Safavid Empire. Arevashat, Baghramian, Amberd, , over those reclaimed from Tatar (Kurdish) nomads Armenians formed less than 20% of its population, Aghavnatun, Haitagh, Hovtamech, Tsiatsin, who first entered Armenia in this period. though they held a majority in Echmiadzin, which Tsaghkunk, Gai, , , Aratashen, had grown into a prosperous town under the Armavir v., Aigeshat, Tandzut, Haikevan, Lenughi, After the 1639 partition, the Safavids did bring patronage of the church, and which had the Nalbandian, Getashen, Karakert. some peace to Armavir and Echmiadzin—which Gevorkian Seminary, the most influential had been restored to the Catholicos in 1441— educational center in the country, FIRST REPUBLIC HHH began its revival in 1629 when Shah Safi extended turning out generations of Armenian As WWI began, Armenian patriots his protection to the See and sponsored renovation educators, scientists, writers and joined the Czarist forces and of the complex, which added the western bell political activists. Russian incursions into Turkey tower and vastly renovated the interior. The rest were quick and decisive, leading to of the marz, which was a part of the Persian Erivan The 1828 Treaty of Gulistan granted an immediate crisis in the Young Khanate, began a slow period of revival, Eastern Armenia to the Russians, Turk movement. Their response In one of the most dramatic reversals of war in punctuated by the effects of the rebellions to the including Armavir. The Turkmanchai was to initiate the first genocide of history, Armenians of every stripe poured out of south by David Bek and the armies of Catherine Treaty a year later recognized the the 20th century, which led to the their towns and villages to meet the Turks, armed the Great. grant by Ottoman Turkey, beginning murder of up to 2 million with simple rifles, pitchforks and , and in a the longest period of peace the Armenians supposedly under their decisive battle, Armenians under Movses Silikian country had known in 500 years. It protection. defeated the Ottoman troops in a three day battle was a time of prosperity and a May 21-24. remarkable rise in the education and fortunes of The genocide had a terrible effect on Armavir ; Armavir’s citizens. refugees poured in from Western Armenia with

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The victory, as well as those at Kharakilisa and apartments shuttered, their inhabitants “gone to Another state road is the Bagaran-Sardarapat Bash-, drove the Turks to the other side the Agriculturally, the region became the most Russia”. Only Echmiadzin (Vagharshapat) seems road (H18) which links Bagaran with the (M5) Arax River and allowed the Armenian National productive in the country, after Ararat, while it also to have escaped the population drop. near Sardarapat (21 km). The Armavir-Markara Council in Tiflis to proclaim the independence of industrialized, with the creation of textile and light road (H15) meanders through the southern the Democratic Republic of Armenia, which existed manufacturing industries at the new city of heartland, arching south and then east from to PEOPLE HHH until the Bolshevik takeover of Armenia in Hoktemberian and Echmiadzin. Armavir (21 km). This road passes most of the Armavir has a mixture of cultures; primarily November 1920. central archeological excavations in Armavir. Armenians from the 1828 and 1918 emigrations The 1988 earthquake did not damage the region, from western Armenia. Others include small Early 20th century sites include Sardarapat and but it began a downward spiral for Armavir, as the In the north, the (H19) spur links to Oshakan (4 pockets of Russians, Yezidi shepherds and Yezidi early 20th century churches at Mrgastan, and earthquake was coupled with the Karabakh km), while the (H13) links Echmiadzin to in descendants. Arshaluis. movement (which led to war in 1991), the collapse Ararat Marz (10 km). In the SE, the (H12) links

of the , and most crucially, the end to the (M3) with the border villages of J’rarat (3 km),

HHH THE SOVIET PERIOD / SECOND REPUBLIC HHH economic ties with Soviet states. IN AND OUT  J’rashen (4 km) and Arax (6 km) before ending at The republic lasted 18 months, collapsing in 1920 By Rail Masis in Ararat marz (26 km). by its inability to alleviate the needs of hundreds of When Turkey closed the border point at Markara , An elektrichka (electric intercity) and Gnatsk thousands of genocide refugees, the flu pandemic and Azerbaijan shut off gas supplies to Armenia, (diesel interstate) travel between the Yerevan Public Transport of 1919 and the dual pressures of the Armavir suffered several years of deprivation, its Central Station and Echmiadzin, Armavir and Public transport includes intercity buses and and Socialists, and the Turkish Republic, now led power cut for lack of gas and a closed nuclear Aragats. The elektrichka is daily, while the gnatsk, minivans (Marshrutni Taxis) that travel from by Ataturk. It formally ended on December 2, plant (also shut in 1988 after Chernobyl’s nuclear which connects Yerevan with and Batumi, village to village and village to city; and taxis / 1920, the same day the Armenian Socialist accident) and its markets no longer available. travels each direction every other day. The train is hired cars with drivers. Republic was proclaimed by the . a cheap way to get there if you don’t mind the The war over Karabakh resulted in a truce in 1994, slow pace. It takes about 1 hr to Echmiadzin; 1.5 Buses (Aftobus) connect Yerevan and the Metsamor reactor was reopened in 1996, to Aragats. Trains leave early morning from (Mashtots/Sarian intersection) with Echmiadzin while export routes through Georgia and Iran Yerevan, beginning their return trip in mid (220 AMD), Markara (350 AMD) and Armavir (350 developed in the 1990s. afternoon. 650-4192 AMD depending on your AMD); buses from the central bus station connect cabin class. to Armavir (850 AMD), J’rarat (200 AMD); buses

ARMAVIR NOW HHH from the Sasuntsi David Rail station connect Armavir marz, made up of the Soviet districts of By Air Yerevan with Arevshat (300 AMD). Intercity/Inter- Echmiadzin, Hoktemberian and Baghramian, is Yerevan’s Zvartnots International Airport is in the village buses depart bus stops in Echmiadzin today a much different place than it was in the east of the marz. See Yerevan In and Out for (Komitas Square, on Atarbekian p. two blocks west dark days of 1991-1996. details. of Komitas Square and in front of the Shuka on Tumanian) and link to all villages in the eastern Echmiadzin has received millions of dollars of By Road half of the marz. Western villages are normally donations from Diaspora Armenians, prompting a The main road through Armavir is the Yerevan- linked via Armavir. Like the rest of Armenia, Armavir was economically construction boom, reclaiming property taken by Giumri highway (M5), which links Yerevan with devastated at the formation of the Soviet Republic, the Soviets and building seminaries, hotels and Echmiadzin (Vagharshapat, 23 km) and with thousands of refugees from Western Armenia offices. Farmers have benefited by a growing Echmiadzin with Armavir (25 km) and Armavir needing housing, and little economic activity. The market for products and the privatization of their with the border with Turkey (14 km). church was also in difficult straits, under attack by lands. The marz also benefits from its location to the Bolshevik government which in 1922 Yerevan which with 80% of the country’s economic The main north-south highway is the Markara - confiscated church property as it nationalized the activity is the country’s engine of growth. Echmiadzin- highway (M3), which few Armenian industries that existed. The begins south of the marz at Markara , links with Catholicos Gevorg V died in 1930, and his At the same time, social services have by and the (M5) at Echmiadzin (20 km), before continuing replacement, Khoren I, was killed in 1938 by the large stopped; schools, clinics and hospitals have north to Ashtarak (38 km), Aparan (54 km), NVD (KGB). closed, or operate only as locals are willing to pay. Vanadzor (114 km), Alaverdi (164 km) and Villages themselves, despite the relative wealth of Sadakhlo at the Georgian border (201 km). Churches throughout Armavir were shuttered, or farming in a still impoverished nation, face the converted into barns, a state that more than a few same population drain as the rest of the country. The (M9) highway begins at Bagaran in the far remain. Able-bodied workers began to leave the country in west of the marz, and travels northerly towards the late 1990s, for Diaspora communities in Russia Talin (43 km) in Aragatsotn marz. On the other hand, Armavir—little more than an and the west. They send remittances to relatives impoverished feudal state in 1920—grew left behind, and this forms the backbone of the A secondary highway that is well-traveled is the enormously in the Soviet period, with universal economy. Armavir-Giumri highway (H17), which links Minivans (Marshrutni Taxis) connect Yerevan education, health and social services that were Armavir City with the (M9) highway (25 km) (Mashtots/Sarian intersection) with Echmiadzin unimaginable before. Politically repressed, the While official figures say the population of the before continuing north along the Turkey-Armenia (250 AMD) and Yerevan (Central Bus Station, population was nonetheless brought into the 20th marz in 2006 was 279,500, most say it is less border to Giumri (91 km). Isahakian pta) with Armavir (400 AMD). Minivans century, and created the first modern Armenian than half that, and a visit to villages and Armavir are plentiful in both Echmiadzin and Armavir, state. city bears this out, the lion share of houses and connecting Echmiadzin with all villages in the

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a traveler’s reference guide ® eastern half of the marz (100-200 AMD) and (Armavir excavation), Arax (Sardarapat), Karakert, settlement); Bronze Age tomb mounds at Armavir with Echmiadzin and all villages in the Bagaran, Yervandashat. Tsaghkalanj. DESTINATIONS H  western half (100-200 AMD). Sample routes from Armavir’s main destination is Echmiadzin; perhaps Echmiadzin include (Metsamor Camping can be had throughout the marz (except Iron Age sites include the settlement at Gai and the most visited spot in Armenia. But that is by excavation), Vacheh, Markara, Gai/J’rarat, border), near villages and in wilderness areas. cyclopic fortresses at Dasht, Aghavnatun, far not the only must-see in the marz: just 15 Zvartnots, Parakar (Zvartnots Airport), However, note this is primarily semi-desert terrain Yervandashat and the large fortress at Karakert. minutes from Echmiadzin is one of the most Baghramian, Mrgastan, Aigeshat, Aknalich. with no forests or woodlands—unless you camp in Iron Age finds were also found in layers of important prehistoric sites in the world; the citadel Sample routes from Armavir include Haikavan someone’s orchard or garden, you will be out in settlement at Metsamor, Mokhrablur and Adablur and ancient star observatory of Metsamor. Other (Argishtikhinili excavation), Nor Artages (Armavir the open, which can be suffocating hot. Paid as well as at Old Armavir and Argishtikhinili. major sites that should be on anyone’s must-see excavation), Sardarapat, Miasnikian, Bagaran, and camping is possible around Aknalich (2000-5000 list are the Urartian city of Argishtikhinili, the Yervandashat. Minivans run mornings and AMD, not very pleasant). Free camping can be Urartian sites include the huge excavated city- Hellenistic city of Armavir and the 1918 Memorial evenings, ask around for times. had around the lagoons and marshes adjoining fort of Argishtikhinili (Haikavan) and its twin Old and excellent folk museum at Sardarapat. Metsamor excavation and next to Argishtikhinili Armavir; the fortress-settlement at Aragats;

Taxis/Cars with drivers can be hired in Echmiadzin, and Old Armavir excavations; near Sardarapat, Yervandashat; minor fortresses at Aragats, Dasht, Armavir and at most villages. Most welcome half and on the Kasakh, Metsamor and Sev Jur Rivers. Aigeshat, Aghavnatun; cuneiform inscriptions and full-day trips, even on short notice. Figure found at Armavir village and on display at 100-150 AMD per kilometer plus something extra For those who don’t mind open-space camping, the Zvartnots; Urartu level settlements/fortresses at for stops; or negotiate a day rate of around $20- Selav-Mastara River Canyon and the western Metsamor and Karakert. 40, for up to four passengers. If you stop for food, expanses around Mts. Spitakblur (1255m) and feed the driver as well. Sevblur (1110.6m) have spectacular views of wide Hellenistic & Roman-Parthian era sites include open semi-desert spaces. The best time to camp Old Armavir Fortress-City, the Orontid religious is in the Spring (April-May), when the normally center at Bagaran and the Yervanduni Capital of OVERNIGHT/EAT H H barren region bursts with emerald carpets of grass Yervandashat, built to replace Armavir. Lodging Armavir has a number of overnights, striated with fields of red, yellow and purple most of them restaurant-hotels congregated on wildflowers. Early Christian sites include the 4th c. cathedral the (M5) between Echmiadzin and Yerevan. of Echmiadzin, the martyria of Ss. Hripsimeh and

Before setting up camp, be sure you are not Guyaneh and the shrine at Shoghakat; the central Near Echmiadzin is the ubiquitous Zvartnots Hotel, trespassing on private property, especially if you spot at Zvartnots cathedral where Grigor met and a large complex of 30 rooms renting by the hour, are close to a village or farm. Ask and you will supposedly converted T’rdat III to Christianity; the half day or night. Don’t be fooled by the tête-à- almost certainly be given permission—and lower portion of Tarkmanchats vank at Aigeshat; tête atmosphere—the staff have been catering to probably food, drink and an evening of stories into the basilicas at Yervandashat and Bagaran; Tukh revelers and tourists for 15 years and their Picturesque locales include the view of Mt. the bargain. Manuks at Arevashat, Aghavnatun, Tsaghkalanj, complex is convenient and secluded. Others are Ararat from Echmiadzin (S. Guyaneh is particularly Aknashen. more temporary in nature, but all welcome tourists good), Zvartnots and the entire SE rim of the Details for lodging are listed in individual HDay Trips and most are quite accommodating. Figure marz; Aknalich; the marshes of Metsamor; (p. 52). Medieval sites include (7th century) Zvartnots 10,000-30,000 AMD for doubles –suites. Metsamor citadel; J’rarat and the Vordan Karmir Cathedral, Ss. Hripsimeh, Guyaneh and Shoghakat Preserve; Kasakh River at Aratashen and below; Eating out in Armavir is available at roadside in Echmiadzin, Tarkmanchats vank in Aigeshat, Several restaurant-hotels are on or near Aknalich The view of the valley from Argishtikhinili & Old stands, restaurant-hotels and cafes in Armavir Karmravor in Aghavnatun; (7th-9th centuries) just south of Metsamor town, and make up for Armavir; the lower plain from Sardarapat; the City, Echmiadzin and on the (M5) highway renovations of Echmiadzin cathedral and Ss. their rent-by-the-hour attitude with pretty views of western desert between Bagaran, Argina and between Echmiadzin and Yerevan. There are also Hripsimeh, Guyaneh, Shoghakat; (8th century) the lake. A few cater to local oligarchs and may Karakert; Springtime at the Selav Mastara River restaurants at Aknalich and a café at Sardarapat Bardughimeos church and buildings at Aknashen; not welcome tourists, but worth a try for the canyon (between Miasnikian and Karakert). that serve full menus (1500-4000 AMD). One (10th century) S. Gevorg and S. Shushanik at seclusion and the gorgeous views of the Ararat delicacy that many choose is fish raised in one of Yervandashat; (12th c) Tovmas Arakeal at valley. Prehistoric sites include lower level excavations the marz many spring-fed fish farms (5000-10,000 Amberd; (13th c) the funerary monument at at Aratashen, Mokhrablur, Adablur and Vacheh; AMD). Roadside grills can be found around Aghavnatun and S. Harutiun church at Samaghar; Armavir City has a Soviet Hotel (cheap but very chalcolithic tells at Zvartnots, Teghut Echmiadzin, Armavir City, Zvartnots and Parakar (14th c) Tsiranavor at Aghavnatun, Astvatsatsin at run down) and a couple of restaurants-hotels that (Echmiadzin), Vacheh, Tsaghkalanj, Mrgastan and (1500 AMD per shish of khorovats). Armavir City Bambakashat and S. Karapet pilgrimage shrine at welcome tourists. 2500-30,000 AMD. Tsaghkunk; the important 6th-2nd m BCE and Echmiadzin have shukas, mterks and kiosks Arshaluis. Other sites include the medieval settlement of Khatunarkh at Gai; petroglyphs at selling food, drink and candy. settlement and graveyard at Tsaghkalanj. B&B-Home stays, which can be rustic but full of the stone quarry near Aghavnatun. local hospitality, can be found at villages and Water Reliable bottled water is available at mterks Dark Ages / (15th-18th cc) include the 1413 towns throughout the marz. 3000-4000 AMD for Copper-Bronze Age sites include the museum, and restaurants throughout the marz. Armavir has Islamic (Timurid or Kara-Koyunlu) funerary basic room and breakfast is fair (toilet may be out excavated citadel and observatory at Metsamor; sidewalk fountains in Echmiadzin. Springs are also monument at Argavand, Echmiadzin renovations back). Venues include Echmiadzin, Armavir, Bronze Age levels at Mokhrablur, Adablur and in every village and town, usually in the center. and S. Shoghakat and Astvatsatsin in Echmiadzin Vacheh (Mokhrablur excavation), Taronik Aratashen; the Teghut Tell just S of Echmiadzin; They are considered safe by locals, and we have city; S. Gevorg at Aigeshat; the round tower at (Metsamor excavation), Markara (Turkish border), the city of Khatunarkh near Gai; Bronze Age never had a problem with one, but you need to use Aghavnatun. Haikavan (Argishtikhinili excavation), Nor Artages towns at Mrgastan, Aigeshat, Aghavnatun, your own judgment and don’t drink out of a cup Mrgashat, Arevik, Karakert (Aratashen that’s not yours.

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19th c sites include the 1810 fortress of Sardari Suggested hikes and treks are detailed in Natural marshes are between Sovetakan, Argavand and Armenia Green Cross Ecological NGO ("AGCE"), Berd and 19th century reconstructions of churches Armenia (p. 7) Arazap. The western marz is good for semi-desert 14-10 Batumi, Vanadzor (tel. 0-322-24066, fax. at Argavand, Geghanist, Parakar, Arevashat, birds like hawks and eagles. The large number of 58449, mob. 093-32-32-84) is a local NGO that Baghramian, Amberd, Doghs, Aghavnatun, Mountain treks There are very few mountains in orchards serves as habitats for a large cross provides eco-tours as part of its mission to Haitagh, Hovtamech, Tsiatsin, Tsaghkunk, Gai, Armavir, which is perhaps the (relatively) flattest section of birds. Good spots are by , preserve and enlarge ecologically vital areas of the Arazap, Artimet, Aratashen, Armavir v., Aigeshat, marz in the country. Most are in the west of the Tandzut, Arevik, , Metsamor, Vacheh, country. Eco-tours are expert-led hiking, climbing Tandzut, Haikavan, Lenughi, Nalbandian, marz: The tallest is Mt. Kogh (1310.2m) in the far Yeraskahun, J’rarat, Arax, Taronik, Aratashen, and and camping tours, including hiking and climbing Getashen, Karakert. NW of the marz, 6 km W of Shenik. Shenik is 4 on the Kasakh River north of Echmiadzin. See equipment, tents, sleeping-bags, emergency and

km N of Mt. Spitakblur (1255.0m), itself 5 km NW Birds (on page 5) and Resources (on page 92). first aid facilities and the services of their Early 20th c sites include Sardarapat and early of Mt. Uchtepe (1128.2m) and 9 km from Mt. professional rescue group (EU certification). 20th century churches at Mrgastan, and Arshaluis. Sevblur (1110.6m). About 4 km NW of Arax (Sardarapat) stands Mt. Grehako (1018.0m) with Adventure Tour Operators H H The Armenian Mountain rescue teams "" Bronze and Iron Age ruins on its slopes. Both Old Haik Melkonian, tel. 091-71-73-82, email: (tel: 010 35 00 06), 50 Halabian p., Yerevan,

[email protected], organizes Armavir (924.1m) and Argishtikhinili (937.4m) email: [email protected], hiking/climbing/camping trips in Armenia with his were built on low mountains. The sole mountain in moon.yerphi.am/~spitak/adventure.htm, the eastern marz is Mt. Dashtakar (1064.4m) team of professionals. The group specializes in Mt. stationed in both Yerevan and , can which is due north of the Metsamor nuclear reactor Aragats and the Geghama Lehr, especially Mt. organize hiking, rock climbing and mountain on the marz border with Aragatsotn. The NE end Ajdahak, with its unique eco-system, Crater Lake expeditions. Guides are experienced rescuers-rock of the marz (due N of Echmiadzin) has a large and -covered stones. They also service climbers, and they can also arrange horse riding number of bluffs and tall mounds, most between nature trips throughout the republic. Melkonian is along picturesque routes, by a horse cave and 900-1000 m in height. All of them have the ruins also a professional photographer, whose photos "Ancient Armenian horse games." (some intact, others lost) of Neolithic, Bronze and grace the pages of Erivan magazine. Iron Age fortresses, settlements or grave mounds. The Eco-Tour Center (tel. 010 27 87 28 / 27 40 Avarayr Adventure Tours, (tel. 010 56 36 81, 52 12), 2 H Hakobian St. apt. 22, 375033 Yerevan, 40 42, Fax: 010 56 36 81), 1 Pavstos Biuzand p., Flower Watching Some flowers begin to bloom Armenia, email: [email protected] ,

Yerevan, E-mail: [email protected], URL: as early as late March in protected areas like river www.ecotourismarmenia.com, arranges nature canyons but the main blooming season waits until www.avarayr.am/ has been arranging cultural and tours, climbs and camping, as well as birding, April and May, with peak blooms in the west adventure tours to Armenia for more than 12 flower watching and other nature tours. Contact between mid-April to mid-May. Best places to look years, one of the first to provide fully equipped Zhanna. are along the highway between Miasnikian and hiking, climbing and adventure tours. Tours NATURE TOURING H  Karakert (Selav-Mastara River Canyon), the include expert guides, cooks and support staff for Hike & Go, (tel. France (+33 6) 88 34 04 11, local Natural areas are few and far between in Armavir all tours. Tours run the gamut from hiking and cell: 091 20 41 38), email: [email protected] (this is an agricultural area with intensive farming, fortress above Karakert, the Arax River canyon climbing in the wilderness to cultural visits for the an adventure travel group operating out of especially in the eastern half of the marz). The between Yervandashat and Bagaran (permission required), around Mts. Spitakblur, Uchtepe and more comfort-minded. Their best seem to be Armenia and France (English spoken) is an small Aknalich and its nearby reservoirs and ponds tours that combine both aspects. A good, solid see Flora (on page 4) interesting group that features tours of Armenia are pretty, though they are mostly taken by Sevblur. For a list of flowers company. combining traditional touring with hiking into weekend picnickers, revelers at restaurants-hotels Armenia’s wilderness and off-the–beaten-path and fish farms. The western desert is the most Ashot Levonian (tel. 010 57 03 28, mob. 091 49 monuments, some of which can only be reached remote area of the country, especially the area 58 34), e-mail: [email protected] is an expert by hiking. See web site (www.hikeandgo.com/) around Mts. Sevblur and Spitakblur. Most explore hiking/climbing/camping guide, his team arranges the region it eh spring, when the weather is cooler hiking, mountain climbing, caving, geology tours, AdvenTour Travel (tel. 010 53 96 09, cell.: 091 42 and most of the plants are in bloom. churches and fortresses. They will arrange hotels 67 45), Email: [email protected], URL: in Yerevan, airport pickup, transport, sight-seeing, www.armeniaexplorer.com, 39 Pushkin p., The Vordan Karmir Reserve, a salt marsh habitat etc. Group support includes guide, translator, Yerevan, Armenia, 375002, arranges adventure, stretching between Argavand, Arazap and cook, medic and driver. Standard tour is a two- birding, botanical and historic tours. Sovetakan has some interesting spots, though it is week hiking trip averaging 5-10 km walking a day: under pressure by farmers draining the reserve for Yerevan - Mt. Aragats - Alaverdi - - - Oxalis Tours, (tel. UK (+44 20) 78 70 80 37, USA new fields. Birders find the marshlands around Sevan - - - Kapan - Meghri (+1 201) 984 1420; Fax: (+44 20) 76 81 31 31) Metsamor excavation and south to be fruitful - - Yerevan. 68 Landseer Road, N19 4JP UK, URL: places for spotting birds in the spring (March-May). www.oxalis-adventures.com/armenia/index.php

One of the most experience mountain climbers in provides trekking, climbing and botanical tours to Hiking and trekking Armavir has a few hiking Armenia is Andrey Chesnokov, (tel. 010 57 67 57), Armenia, specializing in combining off-the-beaten routes in the western desert, and along its rivers. 10 Vardanants St., Apt. #49, Yerevan, Armenia paths with primary sites. They hire expert guides The rest of the marz is so populated with villages Birding Spring (March-April) and Autumn 375010, email: [email protected], who has climbed from in and out of the country and provide full tour and farms; you will never fully get out of the eyes (September-October) are the best times to most of the mountains in Armenia and is a services. Worth looking into, well organized. of inquisitive locals. observe migrating birds, especially water fowls, recommend, reliable guide.

which will congregate at the marshlands and ponds Flower Tours south and east of Armavir and Metsamor. Other

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Professor Nora Gabrielian is the preeminent expert on Armenian and Transcaucasian flora, having personally discovered several new species of endemic flowers in Armenia, the latest in 2006. She is the author of the upcoming Field Guide to Armenian Flowers, the culmination of 50+ years work in the field. This seventy-something still out- hikes the fittest members of her tours and combines expert data with humor, enthusiasm and great good will. She is not easy to book (she continues to do her research and is not for the casual tourist), but if you can arrange for her to take you on a 1 to 8 day flower tour, you will never see Armenia the same way again. She doesn’t have a travel agency but contact her through her daughter Mariam (also widely respected for her botanic work) who can check her schedule and make arrangements.

( [email protected]).

Archeological Tours H  MassTour (tel./fax. 010 27 78 32), 8 Komitas,

Yerevan, e-mail: [email protected] , URL:

www.masstours.com, specializes in archeological tours and participation in archeological digs supervised by working archeologists. Projects include the Urartian fortress of Erebuni (Arin Berd), forerunner of present day Yerevan, the Bronze Age temple-city of Agarak, Bronze-Iron Age tomb field of Aghavnatun, in the Kasakh River Canyon near the village of Apnagiugh, guided visits to the petroglyphs in the Geghama mountain range. They also run basic tour packages with expert guides. Excavation packages begin from $750/week for full service land-expeditions.

See Resources (p. 92) for more Archeological options.

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the pre-eminent pilgrimage destination for 9 The city is surrounded by the fertile Ararat valley, turned it into a heavily cultivated land, dependent teeming with natural springs, ponds and lakes on irrigation and massive artesian springs. that are home to birds which travel through Armenia (two-thirds of all species in Europe and The springs continue to support the most diverse Western Asia migrate through the Ararat Valley). wildlife population in Europe and Western Asia. More than 2/3rds of Europe's bird species can be spotted in Armavir region during their seasonal migrations, including the endangered Dalmatian Pelican, Greater Flamingo and the Imperial Eagle. Thousands of cranes inhabit the region, building their large nests on the tops of village homes and telephone posts.

Add one of the most impressive Modern Sculpture collections in the CIS, a museum with a collection of Soviet Armenia's "Heroic Art", and a delightful home residence harking back to the elegance of the 19th century, and you'll find more to do than one day allows. Give yourself two days to explore this area properly.

HISTORY SH

BACKGROUND SH Pre-History Echmiadzin (Vagharshapat) was itself Echmiadzin lies in Armavir Mars (Armavir Region) the site of a Bronze Age settlement, with some and at the Western part of Ararat Valley, once a thought (however controversial) that as a center lake surrounded by volcanoes in the Mesozoic Era for early metallurgy, the city may have developed (500 million years BCE). The volcanoes gave rise into a religious center to the current mountain ranges rimming the valley based on fire and sun (both Mt. Aragats and Mt. Ararat are dormant worship. The pictograms million Armenians worldwide. Echmiadzin is also volcanoes). The receding waters in the Miocene discovered on rock sides ECHMIADZIN (VAGHARSHAPAT) H H  the See of the Armenian Apostolic Church, and and Eras (10,000,000-500,000 BCE) in the area are filled with (DD 40.53281 x 44.72044, elev. 887m) residence for it's head, the Catholicos. left behind rich alluvial sediment that nourished fire, sun and star imagery.

large forests and grasslands. The valley remains ECHMIADZIN – COMPLEX – S.H GUYANEH – S.H Steeped in tradition that is literally carved onto the one of the most fertile in Western Asia. Certainly in Echmiadzin HRIPSIMEH - SHOGHAKAT - ZVARTNOTS walls of the cathedral and the pagan crypt under proper, fire pits and what

the main altar, to witness High Service at Echmiadzin also lies in the shadow of Mt. Ararat are thought to be temple Echmiadzin Map with Legend (p. Error! Echmiadzin is one of the grandest events in (the tallest mountain in the world in real objects have been Bookmark not defined.) Armenia. In addition Echmiadzin lies in the heart measurement from base to summit), which looms uncovered in and around

of Armenia's Cradle of Civilization, an area that over the region like a huge brooding force. The the cathedral area. The ² ECHMIADZIN (VAGHARSHAPAT) - gave birth to the first bronze and iron civilizations valley has the most fertile soil in Western Asia, fire pit under the main ¾æØƲÌÆÜ / ì²Ô²ðÞ²ä²î ¾çÙdzÍÇÝ in the ancient world. Three 7000-8000 year old among the first to receive cultivation of wheat, altar is a Zoroastrian (5th (ì³Õ³ñß³å³ï) (also spelled Ejmiazdin, excavations are within a fifteen minute drive of the grape and apricot. Domesticated wheat has been c. BCE) reconstruction of a much earlier pit (mid to Edjmiatsin, Echmiatsin; in fact Vagharshapat but city. Echmiadzin is also a short drive from two of dated to 12-15,000 years BCE, before strains early Bronze Age), used as part of a ritual to generally referred to as Echmiadzin, pop. 35,000) Armenia’s ancient capitals; Armavir and found in Central Anatolia. worship/sacrifice to pagan deities. is the most popular destination in Armenia. The Argishtikhinili; and the important battlefield of cathedral dates back to 303 , and along with the Sardarabad, which includes the best folk traditions The valley was once covered with forests, but The Founding of Echmiadzin 4th-7th cc. Guyaneh (also spelled "Gayane") and museum in the country. mass deforestation begun in the mid Bronze Age Hripsimeh ("") martyria and churches, it is

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Urartu The city was already an important site by Echmiadzin achieved supreme status in the 2nd court, promising them, 'you will more easily the time Urartians conquered the region, but some century, when the Arshakunis, led by Artashes, succeed in this because of your friendship and "He (T’rdat) signified his youth by deeds of valor trace its “founding” and its first name to this built a new capital at Kainepolis (present day kinship.’ He promised to give any Parthian who and displayed matchless dexterity, as well as period. A cuneiform of Rusa II records the Echmiadzin). Meanwhile Roman and Parthian killed Khosrov the city of Pahlav and the countries strength in every martial exercise" construction of a canal in the environs of Karlini domination continued into the early Christian era, of the Kushan. – (Gibon, The Decline and Fall of the Roman (also spelled Quarlini or Qarlini) in the heart of when Armenia became the focus of religious as Empire, London 1862). modern Echmiadzin. The city thrived as an well as political change in the Western world. Two A man named Anak, agricultural center, and as a site of worship; some Roman inscriptions found in Echmiadzin (State belonging to the Suren A description of the prince by 5th century historian trace the origins of the fire pit under the History Museum) show the presence of a Roman branch of the Pahlav (Moses of Khorene) said "T'rdat cathedral’s altar is to Urartu. legion in Echmiadzin, on the fringe of Rome’s family promised to do the was physically so powerful that he could seize two Caucasus lands. One of the inscriptions was deed, whereupon Ardashir wild bulls by the horns and break the horns of with The Yervandunis Despite titular control of the commissioned by a tribune of the 15th Legion in is written in the chronicles his bare hands". Another account by Khorenatsi region by Achaemenid following the memory of his wife and daughter. as saying, "If you can relates leapt off his chariot and stopped both his collapse of Urartu, local control was held by the manage this, Anak, I shall own and his rivals chariots by sheer strength. “Orontids”—the Yervanduni (also Yervandid or The Arshakuni king Vagharshak (193-213) moved honor you with a crown." Another story told by Armenian and Roman Yervandian) dynasty, into the Hellenistic era. the capital to present day Echmiadzin and named historians relate how Prince T'rdat, single handedly During the reign of king Yervand Sakavakiats it Vagharshavan, setting the stage for the city’s— Anak feigned revolt against the Sassanid King and fought off a group of soldiers who sought to (570-560 BCE), the brother of the king’s wife, and Armenia’s—greatest historic era. escaped to Khosrov, bringing his family with him. assassinate Licinius. Vagharsh Manuk (Vartkes the youngest) greatly Khosrov received him warmly and sent him to the rebuild and reshaped Karlini and renamed it The Story of the Conversion is steeped in myth province of Artaz. Legend has it he accidentally Finally, (T’rdat’s 4th c. biographer) “Vagharshapat” in his honor. and legend, with a smattering of history. It begins pitched his tent on the spot where the apostle records that a Gothic chieftain challenged Licinius' in the 1st century, when the Apostles Bartholomew Thaddeus had been killed, and that night his wife emperor, , to Hellenism began in the region during the Seleucid and Thaddeus are reputed to have preached in the gave birth to a child, a child who would have the combat. Period, and Echmiadzin became an influential part Armenian kingdom. Legend ascribes a famous greatest influence on Armenia's history. of the Yervanduni (Orontid) landholdings in the meeting of the two at a spot near Echmiadzin. T'rdat stood in the Ararat Valley. The influence of Hellenism was Another famous event in legend was the birth of Two years elapsed before Anak could act upon his emperor's place and great, and rapidly assimilated. Armenian culture an Armenian nobleman who would forever change promise. One day, while they were out hunting, defeated the chieftain. absorbed Greek Armenia’s history, on the same spot, he and his friends murdered the king. They fled to The emperor is said to philosophy, Artaz, pursued by Khosrov's army, who had have been so grateful he architecture and In later years the pagan kingdom became known managed to live long enough to order the death of gave T'rdat an entire religion, giving for being—if not supportive, at least tolerant of Anak's family. army of Roman Legions Armenian deities Christians, which led many to take refuge in to regain the throne of Armenia. Greek names, and Armenia as they fled increasing suppression in This they did, throwing Anak from a bridge over he eventually, their Rome. Arax River and murdering his family, except for Arriving in Caesurae, T'rdat was joined by human likeness. two infant sons, who were smuggled out of Armenian nobles (nakharars), including his cousin, The development of The situation became critical when the Persian Armenia by their nurses, one to Persia and the Grigor, still unknown to him as the son of the man Greek temples in Ardashir, a descendant of a certain Sassan, other to Caesurae, where he was educated and who killed his father. T'rdat defeated the Sassanid the area is traced to murdered the Persian Parthian family and converted to Christianity. king Shapur and was appointed king of Armenia in this period, and overthrew the Parthian dynasty in 226, 286-287. there is evidence establishing the neo-Persian empire (the Ardashir invaded Armenia and slaughtered that temples at Echmiadzin were transformed at Sassanians or Sassanids), with roots based in Khosrov's family. The nobility in Armenia appealed When T'rdat returned to Armenia in 288 he this time to Greek buildings, adopting Greek radical . King Vagharshak, an to the Emperor Valerian to intercede, but Ardashir attempted to force the country to adopt the old patterns and Doric columns in construction. Still Armenian Parthian, was killed in battle against the defeated local attempts at resistance before help pagan religion, which was based on the cult of overshadowed by the Yervanduni capitals at Sassanids. The destruction of their Parthian kin could arrive. Valerians concluded an agreement Vahagn, Anahit and Mythra, all of which had been Armavir and Yervandashat, Vagharshapat and the murder of their own king brought a with the Sassanids, in which Armenia was divided abolished by the Sassanids and converted to nevertheless thrived enough to earn the rapprochement between Armenia and Rome. between Ardashir and the Romans. Ardashir Zoroastrian fire worship. recognition in the next period. introduced fire-worship and demolished the local This was during the reign of Khosrov the great temples, including the temple to the sun and moon Legend has it that when T'rdat celebrated his By the reign of Tigran the Great (95-56 BCE), (213-261), who appealed to the Roman Emperor at Armavir. return with a veneration of the goddess Anahit, Vagharshapat had become a major center for for help. The emperor sent troops from Egypt and Grigor refused the king’s order to follow other commerce, on the road to the religious center at Pontus to Armenia, and with them, Khosrov Khosrov's son, the young prince T'rdat was officers in his retinue and place a wreath of flowers Yervandashat and connected by a Roman Road to defeated the new Sassanid King Ardashir, forcing smuggled by a close friend of the dead king, before the idol, instead extolling the king to not Artashat. Greco-Roman statues, shrines and fire his retreat. Ardashir, realizing he could not defeat Artavazd Mandakuni, to the safety of Rome. At “stupidly worship empty stones”. Enraged, T’rdat temples were predominant, one still lying Khosrov, resorted to espionage. He promised 'if the Roman court, T'rdat, adopted by the Lord had Grigor tortured; first muzzling him as a mule underneath the main altar of Echmiadzin any should arise who can avenge me and assuage Licinius, became a favorite of the Emperor, who and forcing him to carry a block of salt for 7 days, cathedral. my wrath I will award him second place in my became his benefactor and protector. As he grew and then hanging by one foot for 7 days. Neither realm, inferior only to the monarch himself.’ He into manhood, his immense, superhuman strength torture swayed Grigor, who continued to implore made peace with the remaining Parthians in his was noticed by contemporary historians. the king to convert.

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declared the new law was against God and Arshakuni, and was related to the Persian Parthian About this time a prince of the court told T’rdat resigned his commission. He was arrested, royal house by generations of intermarriage Tradition says that Hripsimeh was the daughter of Grigor’s true identity; the son of the man who tortured and executed. between the two kingdoms. The destruction of the a Roman nobleman, the most beautiful maiden in killed his father. He was then sent to the prison in Arshakuni ruling class was a blow not only to the the empire and betrothed to the Roman Emperor Artashat, where he was thrown into a pit (The The affect of the martyrdom of one of Rome’s most peace between Diocletian. Learning they had escaped to Armenia, ) and left to die. A woman is said to famous generals could not have gone unnoticed in Armenia and Persia; Diocletian sent a message to T'rdat asking him to have taken pity on the prisoner, lowering food into Armenia; T’rdat and George were comrades in it was the end of capture the maidens, offering Hripsimeh as a the pit so that he survived. Rome and favorites of the emperor. It symbolized blood ties between reward if T'rdat wanted her. If not, he asked she a groundswell of Christian support in the innermost the ruling houses of be returned to Rome. In 297 events changed again. T’rdat’s patron, the workings of the court, and to Pagans would have each country. As a emperor Diocletian, invaded Armenia in 297 and seemed like a rotting from within; a threat to the result of the Struck by her extraordinary beauty, T’rdat fell concluded a treaty (behind T’rdat’s back) with entire empire's religious, and therefore, political Sassanid invasion, madly in love with Hripsimeh at their first meeting Sassanid Persia, taking a vast territory from structure. the Armenian and asked her to live with him in his . Her Western provinces of Greater Armenia, which kingdom was in a refusal led to the group’s imprisonment and her became "protectorates" of Rome. Diocletian's Edicts Against the Christians The state of crisis. martyrdom. succession of Galerius, following the abdication of T’rdat was well The truce with the Sassanid Persians in Nisibis, in Diocletian in 305 , led to particularly severe aware that with the One of the more interesting versions of the legend 298, enabled Diocletian, Augustus of the Orient, to repressive measures against Christians, inspired rise of the Sassanids relates how, with each advance T'rdat was rebuked create five Roman provinces beyond the Tigris, by the new emperor's fanatical attachment to the in Persia, his own by Hripsimeh in more and more eloquent ways. and facilitated a period of relatively peaceful Roman pagan tradition. Tradition has it that after rule was in Suspecting Guyaneh of coaching escapes from his relations between the two empires. But it did little a serious illness during the winter of 310-311, jeopardy, and advances, T'rdat commanded his soldiers to silence to protect Armenia. Galerius - having repented his crimes - issued a eventual invasion of the older maiden. They did this quite effectively, decree at Nicomedia on 30 April 311 urging his remaining cutting off her tongue before stoning her to death. Stung by this betrayal, T’rdat plotted revenge. clemency for the Christians under his jurisdiction, kingdom only a Hripsimeh and the remaining maidens were kept in two years before the more famous Edict of Milan matter of time. the palace for several months while T'rdat Out of the Pit Armenian tradition dates the official issued by the Emperor Constantine. Some have attempted to persuade Hripsimeh to marry him. recognition of the Christian faith and the thrown doubt on the year 301 for Armenia’s For several centuries However, Hripsimeh became more and more construction of the first churches to the year 301. conversion, pointing to the improbability of Armenians had eloquent in her refusals, finally declaring she could As with so much of Armenia’s history, the story of T’rdat—a close vassal of shared language, culture and religion with the not wed one when she was already promised to Christianity mixes fact with myth and legend, and the Roman general— Parthian (Arshakuni) Persians. Threatened with another. Furious, T'rdat demanded to know her it is sometimes hard to know the difference converting his country invasion by the Sassanid "barbarians", T’rdat suitor. "Christ," was the reply, and in a rage T'rdat between the two. And like so much of Armenian to Christianity when it needed to separate the Armenians from their ties had Hripsimeh and the rest of her entourage history, the identity of Armenians can be found would be a direct to Persia’s culture, or face total assimilation in the beheaded, their bodies buried in a common burial between the three. challenge to Rome at new empire. Not to mention annihilation of his site. the height of their own royal house. The immediate threat by Persia At the time of conversion, T'rdat was still smarting persecutions. These was greater than possible repercussions by Just after this, T'rdat became gravely ill, raving under the betrayal of Diocletian, who had signed a doubts are given Romans persecuting Christians West of his like an . Medieval drawings and carvings secret pact with the Sassanids, which did nothing substance by historic kingdom. T’rdat had other reasons to turn to the depict his insanity by placing the head of a wild to protect Armenia from imminent invasion by the accounts noting the Christian faith. boar on his head, and the more vivid legends Persians. official baptism of T’rdat interpret this literally to mean he turned into a pig. and his court in 311, Unknown to most, T’rdat’s grandfather had Actually the depiction is a symbolic one, meaning At the same time Rome launched the systematic when Grigor was secretly converted to Christianity. Even during the he had become "subhuman", since wild boars were repression of Christians, who were by now anointed archbishop at worst of Roman persecutions, there is no record of considered among the most subhuman animal considered a threat to Roman social order. These Caesura. However, a a systematic persecution against Christians in Armenians knew. were carried out by Diocletian's most trusted deeper look at the Armenia at the time of conversion. In fact, general, Galerius, who was appointed governor of political and economic Armenia was considered a safe haven for T'rdat's sister Khosrovadukht ("daughter of the eastern regions of the empire, including situation in Armenia at Christians escaping persecutions. No doubt this Khosrov"), herself a Christian, then had a dream Armenia. the time provides an created tensions between the Empire and Armenia, where she was told that the only way to cure the impetus for an earlier precipitating the events of 301-311. king and save the nation was to release Grigor. T'rdat was well known to the Roman court and he conversion. She convinced T'rdat to free Grigor and come into would have been well aware of the members of the Hripsimeh and Guyaneh At the end of the 3rd his presence. Having survived 13 years court who were struggling with the Christian The Sassanids brokered century a group of Christian converts, led by imprisonment in the virab at Artashat (legends say question. T'rdat could not help but know of the a peace with the Hripsimeh (collectively called the thirty-nine through the kindness of an old woman who threw martyrdom of fellow courtiers, such as St. George Romans and divided the maidens), who were from the noble Roman class, bread and drink into his pit), Grigor came before (of ‘slaying the dragon’ fame). St. George was a Armenian Kingdom came to Armenia to escape persecution in the the king in rags covered with the train of his hair Roman soldier and close friend of Diocletian’s, who between the two powers after having eliminated Western Empire. They found refuge, and began and beard. Laying his hand on the head of the attempted to sway the emperor against his the Parthian-Arshakuni ruling class s in Persia. preaching the new faith in and around king, he is believed to have told the king he would suppression of the Christians. Failing, he quit the The Armenian King T’rdat was a Parthian- Vagharshavan. cure him of his madness only if he were to publicly

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a traveler’s reference guide ® repent of his sins and erect martyria in honor of From Then to Now Vagharshapat grew in political reclaim the entire area between the cathedral and three of the 39 Virgins (Hripsimeh, and religious importance in the 4th c, when the Guyaneh. The shuka is located one block north of Guyaneh and Shoghakat) he had conversion of the country to Christianity expanded Atarbekian between Baghramian and Alaverdian ordered killed. T’rdat agreed, and and was the focus of attacks by invading armies, The name of the city was changed back to poghots. The hospital and main polyclinic are Grigor cured him. including another Persian invasion in the mid 4th c. Vagharshapat in 1991 when Armenia declared north of town, between Baghramian and Kirov The attacks precipitated the transfer of the Holy independence, but habits die hard, the city was poghots on Spendarian. To show his gratitude, T’rdat See to Dvin, the new capital of Armenia. always vehemently referred to as Echmiadzin by agreed to be converted to the Vagharshapat went into gradual decline so that locals and its name was eventually changed back Guest homes are located close to Shoghakat, Christian faith, together with his now no vestige of the original walls, the royal again to Echmiadzin. Guyaneh and Hripsimeh Vanks, and off of family. Grigor, who returned in enclave or early buildings remain except for Atarbekian poghots near Komitas H’raparak.

310-314 to Caesura to take his sections of the Hripsimeh and Guyaneh martyria NAVIGATINGB THE CITY H H vows and, at the same time, to be and sections of the Cathedral. Echmiadzin is 20 kilometers from Yerevan and 10 Buses from Yerevan arrive via Mashtots poghots, ordained bishop by the Greek kilometers from Zvartnots Airports, on the passing Zvartnots, Hripsimeh and Shoghakat archbishop Leontius, baptized the The Holy See returned to Vagharshapat in the 17th Yerevan-Armavir Highway. From end to end Churches on the way, stopping at the bus station royal family and its entourage on c, when extensive alterations and renovations to Echmiadzin is a 30 minute walk, but in the dog on Atarbekian. The bus station for Taronik and the the banks of the River in Echmiadzin Cathedral and the surrounding days of summer, it is more comfortable to go from Metsamor excavation is on the same street. 311-314. complex were done, and the town experienced a center to outskirts by taxi or bus.

period of revival. As the center for the Church, the CITY SIGHTS S

This date coincides with Galerius’ edict of clemency city also became the most important center of Echmiadzin's center is Komitasi H’raparak or Komitas Square (p. 20) for Christians in the winter of 310-311, suggesting learning, fostering and sometimes fighting the Komitas Square, at the juncture of three main Mher Abeghian Museum (p. 21) the official conversion of the state more likely to emergence of some of Armenia's greatest streets that will give your coordinates: Mesrop Hovhannes Hovhannessian Museum (p. 21) have occurred in 311, some say 314. The dating is intellectuals. Abovian, Nalbandian, Tumanian, Mashtots ("Mashtots") poghots, Atarbekian and Astvatsatsin Church (p. 21) under intense debate. Charents, Hovhannessian, Terian and Araratian poghotsner. Zbosaigee (p. 22)

Others point to a separate set of events that make Shivardnedzeh were all closely tied to the Khoren Ter-Harutian Museum (p. 22) the earlier date the time of conversion. intellectual currents swirling around the seminaries p., also known as old Miasnikian and schools in Echmiadzin, and collectively they Street, runs west to the Yerevan-Echmiadzin SELF TOUR Since almost all of Echmiadzin's main These historians point to T’rdat’s decision to ushered in the modern Armenian literature Mairughi (highway). Atarbekian poghots runs west sites are located within 500 meters of Komitas convert together with his entire family as a tactical movement, which pushed the country into the to Taronik village and the Metsamor excavation. Square (Shoghakat and Hripsimeh are 1.5 and 2 move to preserve his kingdom. By allowing Grigor modern age. Echmiadzin was at the center of Araratian poghots runs south to the Markara kilometers east), a walking tour is the most to become the first Catholicos (supreme patriarch), social change from a feudal society to one based Janapar and the Turkish border. Due north of enjoyable way to see them. it maintained the hold of power within the Parthian on the European model when the genocide began Komitas H’raparak is the tree-lined Mashtotsi Aigee class. During the entire 4th century the in 1915. poghota, lined by the Mashtots Boulevard. This is Though the tour can be done in one day if you race succession of the Catholicos was ensured by the the shortest route to Astvatsatsin Church. Other from place to place, and eliminate some sites it is direct line of male descendants of Grigor, When the red army invaded Armenia in 1920, north-south main streets include Baghramian off of more advisable to break it up over a couple of legitimizing the role of spiritual father of the Echmiadzin was a center of fierce resistance, and Atarbekian, and Kirov off of Mashtots. Araratian days, taking time to take in what you are seeing, Armenian Church in the same degree that the suffered at the hands of the soviets. Churches and poghots passes Echmiadzin Cathedral Complex, and to stroll through parks, stop at a café or male descendants of the Arshakuni (Arshacid) seminaries were closed, the Catholicos Gevorg VI Khoren Ter Harutian Sculpture Museum, and bistro, and sample the local color. dynasty were legitimized as successors to the was reputed to have been murdered in 1938, and Guyaneh Monastery en route to the Markara throne of Armenia. It also facilitated solidarity Vagharshapat went into Janapar and the Turkish border. Looping over  This tour is the most convenient route which among the feudal nobles of the nation. decline as a city and center Echmiadzin is the Armavir-Yerevan Highway, which avoids backtracking, and begins at Komitas of culture. continues north along the Turkish border to Giumri H’raparak. Regardless of the date, the kingdom of Armenia is (120 kilometers), and the capital (20 kilometers). widely accepted as the first to officially embrace In 1945 the name of the city KOMITAS SQUARE - ÎàØÆî²êÆ Ðð²ä²ð²Î Christianity as its state religion. The Roman was changed to Echmiadzin The S. Echmiadzin Cathedral Complex is just (ÎáÙÇï³ëÇ Ðñ³å³ñ³Ï) Empire did not do so until 380, under the Emperor as Soviets began to lure south of Komitas Square off of Araratian poghots The square is named after Komitas (Soghomon Theodosius. Diaspora Armenians to (Or take the first gate into Zbosaigi (Stroll Park) at Soghomonian, 1869-1936), whose statue (29) lies immigrate to help build a the south end of the square. The parking area is directly on the north side. Born in the village of T'rdat then became just as fanatic a Christian as new country. The city was 50 meters beyond). Kiotahia (present day Turkey), Komitas is he was a pagan, demanding his family, the entire industrialized and the church considered one of Armenia's cultural icons. A court and military convert as well. When Grigor was allowed to incrementally S. Guyaneh Monastery is 300 meters south of graduate of the Gevorkian Seminary in Echmiadzin was ordained archbishop in Caesurae, the entire expand its work. Under the Cathedral Complex on Issy les Moulineaux as a specialist in Sacred Music, he spent much of royal house went with him and was baptized in the Vazgen I (Catholicos 1955- poghots. his time collecting Armenia's folk songs, many of Arazani branch of the Euphrates River, at Pakerich. 1994), the cathedral complex was renovated and which are direct descendants of Armenia's pagan This precipitated 300 years of gradual conversion expanded along with churches throughout the S. Hripsimeh Monastery is 2 kilometers east of era. His efforts had a profound effect on the of the country, referred to as The Pagan Wars (see country. Since Armenia's independence in 1991, Komitas H'raparak on Mesrop Mashtots poghots. European music world, fostering the acceptance of Armavir History, p. 8). the church has begun taking back property folk music melodies in classical repertoires. confiscated by the soviets, and embarking on a S. Shoghakat Church is 1.5 kilometers east on large construction program that will eventually the same street, then 150 meters north.

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Komitas efforts to decipher medieval Armenian worldwide, and his repertoire of both sacred and the USSR), as well as the frequency of his still light and airy. Though displays are in Russian musical notation is also credited with helping to folk music is a hallmark of Armenia's and Europe's "inspirational trips" abroad. His work should by no and Armenian, they still capture a way of life and read Europe's medieval music. Ironically, Komitas music traditions. means be judged on that level alone, though, but intellectual prowess that crosses all language research into polyphonic musical notation (that rather as a study in how an artist caught in a barriers. found on ancient manuscripts) helped to decipher Unfortunately the museum space dedicated to his repressive system could both tow the official line Gregorian chant notation, which had its life and work has been usurped by the seminary, while painting officially forbidden themes. Hovhannes Hovhannessian (1864-1929), was a antecedents in Armenian medieval music, but a few items are on display at the Old Remember he worked when the communists had part of the Ashkharabar or Modern Armenian reputedly introduced to Pope Grigor by an Residence museum inside the cathedral complex. stamped out all attempts at experimental art. literature movement, which used a simpler and Armenian monk. By the beginning of the 20th more easily understood form of the language. century Komitas believed he had succeeded in  To continue the tour, cross the western side of His huge triptychs Hairenik (Fatherland) and Separate from Grapar (grah-PAHR) or old cracking the notation code, and was about to make the square (left as you face the statue), where Hayastan are based the Armenian Expressionists Armenian, Ashkharabar was used by Abovian, public his research when the genocide ended his the Mher Abeghian Museum and gallery is mode, incorporating themes and subjects from Nalbandian and others to create a new form of career. located. mythology (definitely not approved material) that expression, and to question the feudal system that are still monumental and proletarian enough to was entrenched in Armenia in the early 19th MHER ABEGHIAN MUSEUM - Øкð satisfy even the staunchest Social Realism critic. century. ²´ºÔÚ²ÜÆ Â²Ü¶²ð²Ü (ØÑ»ñ ²μ»ÕÛ³ÝÇ Â³Ý·³ñ³Ý)  To continue the tour, go through the archway Part of the intellectual circles that arose in the The museum is just west of Komitas Statue into the back courtyard. at the end of the 19th century, (across Mashtots pta.) and is open Monday to best known as a linguist and translator, Saturday from 9 am to 5 pm during May-October, HOVHANNES HOVHANNESSIAN HOME Hovhannessian was a contemporary of Charents, and from 10 am to 4 pm during November - April. MUSEUM - ÐàìвÜܺê ÐàìвÜܺêÚ²ÜÆ Tumanian, Shirvanzadeh, Terian and Komitas, all Admission is free. ²ܶ²ð²Ü (ÐáíѳÝÝ»ë ÐáíѳÝÝ»ëÛ³ÝÇ êáõÝ of whom studied in Vagharshapat. Together with ³ݷ³ñ³Ý) the Russian linguist and writer Valeri Briusov, he translated the first edition of ancient Armenian This museum is small enough to walk through in The museum is in the courtyard behind the manuscripts into Ashkharabar. Hovhannessian less than half and hour, but revolving exhibitions Abeghian museum, though the archway (tel. also translated the first modern Armenian editions in the first hall make a longer stop worthwhile. 53370). In front is a tufa wall with a wooden door, of works by Schiller, Pushkin, Goethe, Nekrasov, The museum displays paintings by Mher Abeghian often locked. No matter--turn right and follow the Ibsen and Hainze. His translation of the (a protégé of the expressionist Martiros Sarian), wall to the northwest end, where a small wooden Shakespeare canon is still considered one of the whose work combined approved social realism door lies. Knock. It is open Monday to Saturday most accurate translations into any language. from the Soviet era with Sarian's mystical from 9 am to 5 pm during May - October, and from

landscapes and evocative color schemes. 10 am to 4 pm during November - April. On April 17-18, 1915, in an Armenian church in The museum displays pictures and artifacts from Admission is 300 AMD. the Ghalatia quarter of Constantinople (Istanbul), his life, including his study, with his favorite fishing

Komitas conducted the premiere of his Patarak pole and the copy of Turgenov left exactly as he (Messiah). The second concert was to scheduled placed it on the day he died. Part of the for May 3rd, but on April 24th, along with other intellectual circles that created the new socialist Armenian intellectuals in the city, he was arrested republic, he was among those suspected by Stalin and exiled from the city. as a counter-revolutionary, yet died before the great purges began in 1936, which wiped out the En route he witnessed the genocide first hand, and intellectual class in Armenia. the horror drove him into insanity. Because of the intercession of influential Turkish and foreign  To continue the tour, take the walkway on the authorities, he was brought back to north side of the old Arevtri Tun (Universal Constantinople, but it was too late. The remaining Store) facing Mesrop Mashtots Park, and go years of his life were spent until 1919 in the west one block. Astvatsatsin church is about military hospital in Constantinople, and then in the 50 meters ahead, on the right. Hospital for the Insane in , where he died in 1936. In the same year his ashes were ASTVATSATSIN CHURCH - ²ëïí³Í³ÍÇÝ transferred to Yerevan, where they were interred ºÏ»Õ»óÇ at the newly created Komitas Pantheon. The church is open from 8 am to dusk seven days

This wonderful little home museum is worth the a week. Also called the "village" or "peasant" Komitas' unraveling of the medieval code was lost visit just to sample a bit of Old Echmiadzin church, Astvatsatsin is in the heart of Echmiadzin, with his sanity, and it is only recently that elegance, as well as to escape the pulverizing yet often neglected on visits, which is a shame, researchers believe they have succeeded in summer sun within its shaded walled garden with since it amply shows how the vast majority deciphering the notation. It should be noted that Abeghian's resume reads like one of the fountain. The home was built in traditional worshipped, denied access to the grander current musical notation of Armenian medieval communist faithful, with honors and medals Armenian design with a large wooden porch, thick monasteries nearby. It also houses a beautiful music is still considered imperfect without this awarded at regular intervals (Abeghian was both stone walls and narrow windows, but the effect is Rococo style altar, the only of its kind in Armenia. code. Komitas is venerated by Armenians Honored Artist of Armenia and People's Artist of

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a traveler’s reference guide ® and hold one of the most elegant altars in  To continue the tour: From the front of the de rigueur for recovering from the intense sun just displays , graphics and paintings created Armenia, a work of Italianate art in itself. church, either retrace your steps to Komitas a few yards away on the streets. Unkempt, this by a Diaspora Armenian who was one of the H’raparak, or go south on the small side street park is still more genuine and lively then the foremost sculptures of the Modern Art Movement between the church and the Arevtri Tun to packaged gardening inside the complex. Come in the 1940's-1960's, and whose most famous Atarbekian p. and cross the street. Take any here to see how the other 99% live. works can only be seen here. Unfortunately, there entrance into the park facing you. are no guide booklets in English, and the displays There is also a children's amusement area with are all labeled in Armenian. ² ZBOSAIGEE - ¼´àê²Ú¶Æ (¼μáë³Û·Ç) kiddy rides and a line of (closed) carnie The park is on the south side of Komitas H’raparak attractions. A few of the rides were working when and Atarbekian p. The park is open from dawn to we visited, but all seem to be under some 10/11 pm seven days a week. Cafes are open attention, and may be back in order in time for the warm weather only from 9 am to 10/11 pm or 1700 celebrations. when the last customer leaves. Rides are open generally in summer from 10 am to 8/9 pm. On the eastern edge of the park is a large tufa mural and fountain (unfortunately not working). Echmiadzin's Zbosaigee or Stroll Park has carnival New construction on a residence/hotel for the Holy rides and sidewalk cafes (the center café is also a See is opposite the newly renovated Gevorkian bistro, with cabanas facing a central fountain), and Seminary. Between them is a paved way into the is a popular "hangout" for all Ages. Though Cathedral Complex parking lot. narrow, it is shaded with tall trees and makes a First consecrated in 1767, Astvatsatsin became good rest stop.  To Continue the Tour, exit the park at Komitas known as giughi vank (village church), a place of square and cross the street to the post office worship for the common folks who did not have a Monuments in the park include one to the side, then turn R (S) on Araratian p for about 1 church to use for weddings or baptisms since Armenian Bolshevik Stepan Shahumian (40) and block to the Khoren Ter Harutian Sculpture Echmiadzin, Guyaneh and Hripsimeh were another to Anastas Migoyan (44), elder brother to Museum reserved for the Holy See or as monasteries and the developer of the Soviet MIG fighter plane, and Background Born Khoren Ter Avetissian in 1909 seminaries. one of Stalin's henchmen. The statues were kept in Ashotavan Village in Western Armenia (present as a testament to Armenia's history, however day Turkey), Ter Harutian barely escaped the 1915 The original church was built from wood, and was grim, though nameplates were carefully removed genocide. Except for his mother, a sister and the replaced in the 19th century with tufa walls to prevent identification and feared vandalism. artist, his entire family (23 members, including his imbedded with from the same period. father, a priest, and brother) were killed by Beginning the end of the 19th century, the church Turkish soldiers. In 1921 they immigrated to the fell into disrepair, especially during the Soviet USA, and Ter Harutian then moved in 1930 to period when it was used as storage shed. Jamaica, where he began his painting career.

The Catholicos Vazgen I initiated a period of In the 1930's he traveled to England where he church reconstruction throughout the country, became interested in sculpture, first working with including Astvatsatsin which was reconsecrated in wood (lignum vitae, mahogany, eucalyptus, 1986. The bell tower was added in 1982. satinwood) and later in stone, almost exclusively in marble. His graphics and paintings have a slight Astvatsatsin is very much a village church, with resemblance to the work of Salvador Dali, but the locals visiting to light candles, pray or rest. The content is less intellectual, much more visceral in most striking part of the church is the altar, which their depictions of human tragedy and hope. was designed in the Italian Baroque style using KHOREN TER-HARUTIAN SCULPTURE marble and gilded wood. The sky blue and white MUSEUM - ÊàðºÜ îºð-вðàôÂƲÜÆ In 1982 Ter Harutian gave 100 sculptures, 250 paint with gold leaf lend a bit of extravagance to ø²Ü¸²ÎܺðÆ Â²Ü²¶²ð²Ü (Êáñ»Ý »ñ- graphics and 50 paintings as a gift to Armenia. an otherwise simple building, and is unlike any гñáõÃÛ³ÝÇ ø³Ý¹³ÏÝ»ñÇ Â³Ý·³ñ³Ý) First housed at the in the old other altar in Armenia. seminary next to the Cathedral Complex, the

collection was moved to its current location in The park is a popular hangout, though few tourists The museum (tel: 52038) is located 100 meters The church itself is a pleasant space of clean and 1994 when the church repossessed the seminary seem to take advantage of the cool shade and south of H’raparak on the eastern side of Araratian simple lines, with baptismal font and pillars building. Originally a cinema, the space displays delicious ice-cream served in the outdoor cafes. p. It is across the street from the Gevorkian adorned with simple 19th - 20th cc paintings of Ss. 79 of Ter Harutian's works in the lower level. Full course meals or sandwiches can be ordered Seminary. Poghos (Paul) and Petros (Peter), and Christ. Two Others are stored in the upstairs cinema hall. and are worth the price of around $5 for a 19th century paintings in the church by the Abandoned by state subsidy (staff salaries are US complete meal to 150 drams for coffee or a simple The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9 Hovnatan brothers are Srapion and Markar. The $20 a month), the director and staff of the b'rduch (sandwich). am to 5 pm during May - October, and 10 am to 4 large Virgin and Child was painted by Yeghishe museum work completely out of devotion for the pm during November - April. Admission is 200 Tatevosian. artist's legacy. The shade trees are massive, beautiful reminders AMD, and donations are appreciated. The museum of how forested the entire valley once was, and are

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Ter-Harutian Map Legend 1. Pillar of Salt, 1949, Georgian marble 2. Hope, 1949, Georgian marble 3. David Sasuntsi, marble 4. Cliff Mother, marble 5. Fertility, 1966, serpentine marble 6. Spring, 1980, Italian marble 7. Childhood Memories, 1957, serpentine marble 8. Cliff Mother, 1966, marble 9. Rhythmic Dancers, 1945, Georgian marble 10. Leda Waiting for the Swan, bronze 11. Self Portrait, 1965, bronze 12. Maternity, 1947, English alabaster 13. Vartan Mamikonian, 1963, bronze 14. Genocide, 1976, bronze 15. Tragedy, 1940, mahogany 16. Ani, 1962, bronze 17. Concerning Sculpture, 1960, bronze Outside the Museum In the niches on the upper 18. Cats, graphic 19. Echo, 1949, Portuguese onyx wall are two large sculptures made in 1949 from 20. John the Baptist, 1956, marble Georgian marble. On the left is Pillar of Salt (1) 21. Don’t Kill, 1963, bronze and on the right is Hope (2), both from a series 22. Rhythmic Dance, 1946, Tennessee marble based on Sodom and Gomorrah. From right to left 23. Struggle for Life, 1944, mahogany on the ground level are David Sasuntsi (3), 24. In the Waves of Euphrates, oil on canvas Mother of the Cliffs (4) (dates unknown, marble) 25. Mt. Ararat Summit, 1967, Italian marble 26. Euphrates Foam, 1968, Italian marble and Fertility (5) (1966, serpentine marble). The 27. Reclining Woman, graphic two bronze plaques are miniatures of the Life of 28. Voice of Orpheus, 1967, tufa Mher series, done for a Philadelphia exhibition in 29. Seabird Catching Fish, 1948, Skyros onyx 1976. 30. Bird, 1955, green serpentine marble 31. Yolanda, 1982, Italian porphyry Inside the Museum The entrance lobby and 32. Man of Sorrows, 1944, Jamaican porphyry 33. Genocide, graphic main hall displays the bulk of the collection 34. Genocide, graphic including Ter Harutian's Genocide Series (25 35. Genocide Series, 22 graphics graphics, 1 painting, a large bronze plaque and a 36. Genocide, 1975, bronze huge bronze statue of a vulture perched over a 37. Leda and the Swan, 1980, bronze decaying corpse), the marble sculptures Rhythmic 38. Son of Ararat, 1947, Napoleon gray Dance, Euphrates Foam, Echo (19), Leda and the 39. Genocide, graphic 40. Rhythmic Movement, graphic Swan (57) and Man of Sorrows (32). Others 41. Meditation, 1955, Rosato marble include Ani (16), Awakening Man (52), 42. Male and Female Deer, 1944, Italian marble Catching Fish (29), Do Not Kill (21) and 43. Genocide, oil on canvas Struggle for Life (23). A remarkable piece is 44. Ararat War, oil on canvas Descent from the Cross, a massive carving from 45. Propher Head, 1944, Jamaican porphyry Georgian Marble on rough timber. The figure is 46. Descent, 1952, Georgian marble 47. Meditation, 1945, Rosato marble sculpted like a death mask in the medieval period, 48. Escape, oil on canvas yet appears as installation art. Ter Harutian 49. Ter Zor, oil on canvas combined Urartian monumental design with figures 50. Fighting Cocks, 1963, bronze from Armenia's Christian era, as in his Vartan 51. Curse the Day I was Born, graphic Mamikonian, Sacrifice and John the Baptist. 52. Awakening Man, 1941, Spanish green marble Take a look at Gorilla and Tragedy and you seem 53. Sacrifice, 1964, French marble 54. Gorilla, 1945, mahogany to be peering into two sides of the same . 55. Harm's End, 1943, mahogany 56. Vartan Mamikonian, 1976, bronze  To continue, cross the street to the east gate 57. Fallen Man, 1963, bronze into the Echmiadzin complex (p. 24) 58. Leda and the Swan, 1946, Alabama marble

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ECHMIADZIN COMPLEX - ºæØƲÌÜÆ access to the average visitor. Remember you are ºÎºÔºò²Î²Ü вزÈÆð (¾çÙdzÍÝÇ literally rubbing elbows with some of the oldest Christian relics on earth. You will find it wise to be ºÏ»Õ»ó³Ï³Ý гٳÉÇñ) SH COMPLEX MAP LEGEND cautious as you see and can touch artifacts that would be sealed and roped away from view in the Cathedral Complex (p. 25) 1 Astral Observatory west. East Gate (Main Entry) (p. 25) 2 Park 3 Gate - Monument East Gate Khachkars and Seminary (p. 26)

4 Gevorkian Seminary East Courtyard (p. 26)

5 Old Gate Inner Main Courtyard (p. 26)

6 Book Store Cathedral Exterior (p. 27) 7 Sodk , 1563 Bell Tower (p. 28) 8 New Dormitory Cathedral West Entrance (p. 29) 9 T’paran, 1771 10 Old Dormitory, 19th c 11 Hotel 12 Katnaghbiur 13 Theological Seminary, 1909 14 World Council of Churches 15 Rectory, mataghatun 16 Echmiadzin Cathedral 17 Khrimian Hairik Ladle 18 Genocide Monument 19 Urartu , 1st m BCE 20 Shah Abbas I Carving 21 North Tombs a Ter Ter Khoren I b Hovhannes R. Karbetsi HISTORY, BACKGROUND c Gevorg IV The story of Echmiadzin and the beginning of the d Ter Matevos II Kostandnapoletsi 22 South Tombs Armenian Apostolic Church is tied to the story of e Daniel I Paiyetsi King T'rdat III and Grigor of Parthia.

f Nerses V Ashtaraketsi g Mkrtich I Vaneti (Khrmian Hairik) By converting to Christianity, and then appointing h Gevorg VI The complex is open from 8 am to dusk seven his kinsman Grigor as the first patriarch or i Vazgen I Catholicos over the Armenian church, T'rdat j Ter Ter Gevorg V T'p'khisetsi days a week. High service is at 10 or 10:30 am k Makar I Sundays. insured continued Parthian control over both 23 T’rdat Gate government and religion. (See Echmiadzin History 24 "Amnaprkich", 1279, Vayots Dzor The cathedral museum is open 9 am to 5 pm Tues- for details, p. 18) 25 Sodk Khachkar, 1543 Sun, except during High Service on Sundays. 26 Old Juga Khachkar, 1602 THE ARMENIAN APOSTOLIC CHURCH 27 Khachkar, 13th c There are other churches of Armenian Christianity, 28 Sodk Khachkar, 1543 Echmiadzin Cathedral and the surrounding including Roman Catholic and Protestant, but by 29 Aghjots Vank Khachkar, 1278 complex is the Mother See of the Armenian 30 Geghard Khachkar, 13th c Apostolic Church, and the most sacred shrine for 9 far the largest congregation is the Armenian 31 Khachkar, 9th c million Armenians worldwide. Echmiadzin Apostolic Church. It is one of two main branches 32 Old Residence museum Cathedral is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, of Christianity divided between Chalcedonian and 33 Grigor Haghbakian Khachkar, 1233, which includes Hripsimeh Church, Guyaneh Non-Chalcedonian churches. These are subdivided Imerzek between the Western Orthodox (Greek, Russian, 34 Clock Tower Church, and Zvartnots Cathedral. 35 Khachkars, 15th-18th cc Serbian and Macedonian), Roman Catholic and 36 New Residence On a scale much smaller than the great temples in Protestant Churches, and the Oriental Orthodox 37 Treasury Museum Asia and the cathedrals in Europe (all of churches (Armenian Apostolic, Syrian, Coptic and Echmiadzin's complex could easily fit into St. Indian Malabar). Peter's plaza in the Vatican), the site is nonetheless a remarkable and at times awe- The main difference between the branches is in inspiring destination, despite the obvious business- how they treat the nature of Christ, did he come to oriented atmosphere that surrounds it. Built 700 earth in both human and divine form, or in one years before the Gothic cathedrals, the form only, both human and divine? This seems to

engineering for this and other churches in Armenia be pulling at straws, but in its day it was a reason

directly influenced their grander designs. for schisms between the Greek Orthodox and the

Roman Catholic churches, and before that, the

The treasures housed at museums in the complex schism between the Armenian Apostolic and Greek

are often eye-popping for both their beauty and Orthodox churches. The argument precipitated

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a traveler’s reference guide ® divisions in the Empire, and was an excuse for seats up front (reserved for dignitaries and some August), when the Catholicos blesses the grape and is divided between the Complex (45 minutes), many a war. The Armenian Apostolic Church foreigners--feel free to take a seat if you are crop. According to locals, you should never eat the Cathedral and Museum (60 minutes), and the accepts the latter view, thereby being a Monotheist invited). grapes until after that feast. Old Catholicos Residence (45 minutes). or "Monophysist" church. Considered disrespectful in churches is placing Other celebrations are Terendes on February 13th, Enter the complex through the East Gate on The relationship between these branches is best your hands in your pockets, or standing in a way based on a pagan fire ritual where newlyweds Atarbekian p. (opposite Khoren Ter Harutian described in terms of their patriarchal structure. that can seem casual. Women should wear purify their marriage by jumping over fire, and Sculpture Museum). Armenians prefer to call the relationship between headscarves, and outlandish clothes or shorts are Vardavar in July (days vary according tot he the Roman Catholic Pope and the Catholicos as frowned upon (indeed, older members of a pastoral calendar), which is a purification by water. equal, but add that the Pope is considered "first congregation may be quite vocal in admonishing Vardavar is also celebrated by the masses with among equals," a lesson in diplomacy if ever there incorrect dress or behavior). It is traditional to people pouring water on unsuspecting passersby. was one. When the Pope and the Catholicos walk backwards out of the church (i.e. not to turn ceremonially meet, they are always seated on your back on the image of God). Candles are sold equal levels, and there is close contact between (40 AMD, 80 AMD, 120 AMD, 250 AMD depending the two churches. on size of candle) inside the church, and large stands are placed in front of particularly holy spots or paintings. Feel free to purchase and light candles if you wish.

During services the more devout will repeatedly bow and cross themselves, sometimes crying out during a service in prayer or anguish. Be respectful of their privacy, and under no circumstances should you attempt to take pictures of this--church members will escort you from the church for doing so. EAST (MAIN) ENTRY GATE

The towering stone gate was erected for the 2001 celebrations of 1700 years of Christianity as a The Feast of Meron Meron is something akin to state religion in Armenia. The front (east) of the the holy oil used in the Roman Catholic and gate is topped with the words "Mair Ator Surb Orthodox churches, a mixture of 40 types of Echmiadzin (Mother Seat of Holy Echmiadzin)" and flowers and herbs found in the bible, distilled in features the carvings of King T'rdat III (T’rdat the The use of statues never took root in the Armenian olive oil and water. Made every 7 years, or in the Great, left figure) and Grigor Lusavorich, their Church, except for the cross. Frescos were a part year a new Catholicos is appointed, the ritual is arms extended toward a central cross. The of all church décor, often covering entire interior one of the most important in the Armenian Church. inscriptions next to each figure read (left) "Surb surfaces. The earliest frescos directly influenced T'rdat G (III) Arka Haiyots (S. T’rdat III King of Byzantine fresco art, and through it the The belief is that the first Meron was made by Armenia)” and (right) "Surb Grigor Lusavorich (S. Romanesque and early Italian fresco tradition. Grigor, and when the next was made, they mixed Grigor the Illuminator)". The long inscription to Records show that Armenian artists were lent to the remaining portion from his first Meron to the the right is in grapar (grabar), old Armenian. Byzantine and Italian courts as early as the mid new, therefore the holiness and blessing from the 4th century. The worship of Astvatsatsin (The first Meron is distilled into the new and distributed The design is an interesting use of Sacred Mother of God) assumed greater importance to Armenian and Orthodox churches worldwide. Numerology handed down from the days of beginning in the 7th-9th centuries and is now a 40 types of flowers and herbs are used to distill Pythagoras, with the left (south) side using 7 of all church altars. Do not take flash pictures or use equipment that the aromatic oil, including frankincense and myrrh. angles (the number "7" represents completion of makes a lot of sound (i.e. automatic wind devices) Distilled in water for three days, they are then cycle and the day of resurrection in sacred Those acquainted with pre-Vatican II Roman during a liturgy service. However, at weddings added to purified olive oil and the remaining Meron numerology; there are seven days in a week, Catholic or Oriental Orthodox services will have and baptisms locals are notorious for flash pictures from the previous ceremony. there were seven known planets in the ancient some understanding of the rituals. Chanting and and video taping. If you are present when one of world; 7 evil spirits. The Augustinian God was the polyphonic music make up much of the these ceremonies is performed, be surreptitious in God of seven: he rested on the seventh day and background to the ritual, which is accompanied by your picture taking, but often you will be invited to  To continue the tour, cross the street to the Christian life is ordered by seven; seven capital heavy doses of incense and closing the curtain join in, as Armenians feel a foreigner’s presence east gate into the Echmiadzin complex. sins, seven virtues and seven sacraments). during Eucharist. High services are up to three lends an extra polish to their celebrations. hours long. CATHEDRAL COMPLEX - زÚ𠸲ҲðÆ The four sided block making up the main part RELIGIOUS FESTIVALS вزÈÆð (سÛñ ¸³Ó³ñÇ Ñ³Ù³ÉÇñ) entry for the gate has four arches, corners and is CHURCH ETIQUETTE The church pulls out the stops for Armenian topped by an open circle where a dome might have In most of the Armenian churches there are no Christmas on January 6 (Epiphany), Easter and the This tour will take about two and a half hours (3+ rested, mimicking the vision Grigor had when he benches or seats, though Echmiadzin does have Feast of the Annunciation (the second Sunday of if you take time to look at everything in detail), saw the church with a "dome of the heavens". The

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a traveler’s reference guide ® number Four represented the division of time (the surrounded by stylizations of the Pagan Tree of four seasons), the four directions, the four rivers Life (as seen in Mesopotamian/Urartian religious f. Khachkar, Old Juga, 1576. Four crosses on of paradise—it was unity divided into equal parts. carving), sometimes resting on top of a disk, or the top shelf, small bas relief main cross with a sun symbol (some say the first god in Armenia). large sun symbol (believed to have been the first, The north side of the gate (where you enter), primary Pagan God in Armenia) underneath. above, has a prehistoric Vishap Stone that has been carved with religious symbols to "baptize" it  To continue the tour, enter through gate to in to the new faith. Priests at the complex dispute front of the Seminary. this, saying the stone was carved in the as a Christian piece, but its Pagan roots are EAST COURTYARD definite. On the back (west) face of the gate the inscription reads in grabar, "Khachi Koi Kristos Most of the buildings and monuments inside the Yerkir Pagahneh-amk yev Z'surb Yarutiunk current complex were constructed from the mid Paravoremk (we will kiss the heavenly cross of 17th century forward, after Holy See returned to Christ and we will glorify your resurrection)" Echmiadzin. The complex is divided into three main courtyards: East (main entrance gate), The two other figures carved on the facade are S. Central (Cathedral) and West or Residential Tadevos and S. Bartalomos (the Apostles Quarter (New and Old Residences, Church The sidewalk between the Old Dormitory and the Thaddeus and Bartholomew) who are believed to Treasury). The entire complex is surrounded by 1771 T'paran, or Publishing House (9) leads to have preached in Armenia in the 1st c . tufa walls and the exteriors of several buildings. the tree-lined central courtyard. The walls on the old dormitory are pockmarked with rifle shots, and Before entering the complex, you will find small we have heard everything from fighting during the stands selling everything from khachkars, Persian era (not likely since the building is early paintings and jewelry crosses to refreshments and 19th century) to fighting against Red Army worry beads. The captive birds are meant for invaders to explain this. It seems no one really matagh, or sacrifice, and predominate on Sundays knows, is wants to tell, as 50 visits later, the and major holy days. We had a friend who used to explanations get more interesting or faces more purchase one on each visit and set it free--seems quizzical. Locals have a need to explain there are no rules what you do with the animal everything, even if uncertain (though the Persian once it is bought, as no wrath of God was poured explanation came from a western Armenian) , so on her head for doing so. you may find the answer, or you may just have to create your own myth.

Outer Buildings The outer buildings comprise the Observatory (1), uncompleted, a large park (2) Â To continue the tour, continue W through the The khachkars are, in order from the new gate: and the new Main Gate (3) which leads up car park to the old inner courtyard. Tarkmanchats p. past the Gevorkian Seminary a. Basalt three-cross khachkar using (4) and the parking lot to the main complex. INNER COURTYARD for the top icons. The EAST GATE KHACHKARS AND SEMINARY is a symbol of love, life and well-being from the The Old Eastern Entry (old main gate) (5) An oasis in the hot summer months, the cool Pagan era. opens onto the East Courtyard and gardens, shadows and carefully tended central courtyard A row of khachkars line the long walk to the main framed on the western side by the back of a 19th swarms with worshippers during major holidays. complex. Behind them is the 18th c. Gevorkian b. Two tufa khachkars from Gladzor, 1296 . century Seminary Dormitory (10) and the 1771 During the funeral for Vazgen I, the outpouring of Seminary (4), under reconstruction. The T'paran (9) lie. The new guest house (8) is used mourners filled the entire complex and surrounding khachkar or Stone Cross began its development in c. Black tufa khachkar with carefully incised by church dignitaries and special guests. The areas including Komitas Square. It is a large the 4th century as pagan and monuments patterns, the two crosses that flank the main cross book store (6) sells religious and souvenir books, courtyard, divided into sections by carefully were carved with crosses. The Khachkars in the forming the stylized tree of life, a hallmark of the maps and gift items, including a small introductory maintained flower beds and shrubs. If you've been Echmiadzin Complex cover its development pre-Christian belief that was incorporated into booklet to Echmiadzin in English, and a beautiful huffing it through the tour so far, take time to rest between the 9th-17th centuries. Khachkar Art. (though hefty) Treasures of Echmiadzin, priced at on one of the benches and soak in the 50,000 AMD. atmosphere. This is the center of the Armenian When Grigor’s followers began the conversion, d. Khachkar, Old Jugha, 1602. Five crosses in Apostolic Church, and the ground beneath you had they were confronted with multiple Pagan deities top panel, memorial carving of prince on horse at To your right as you continue are a water witnessed more than 5000 years of history. and a plethora of icons. Like the Roman church, bottom (represents the donor). fountain and the 1563 Sodk Khachkar (7) from the new faith was adept at usurping pre-Christian Sevan region. The simplicity of the design and the The church is the latest incarnation of temples traditions, turning them into a new, Christian way e. Three khachkars showing different icons for choice of black basalt make a striking impression, going back to the Mid Bronze Age (uncovered) or of worship. The same is true of the icons. the interior/tree of life. One uses grapes (the sign especially when it appeared with hundreds of to the (conjectured). Throughout Christians incorporated pagan symbols into their of life and the blood of Christ), another, the cross others on the wind-swept hills above Lake Sevan. Armenian history temples were built at the iconography, showing the triumph of the new god form and the third crosses for the tree of life but necropolis of settlements, so the immediate over the old. Hence the Cross is figured very stylized grapes for the top. surrounding area would equate to the city of

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Karlini, Vartkesavan and Vagharshapat. The independence of Armenia and other ethnic groups (32), new Residence (36) and Treasury Museum is in current Nakhichevan and the Juga khachkars Residential area is thought to lie where the King's in Anatolia while Bulgaria and Hungary were (37) are located. See next section of details on represent the last golden age of Armenian arts. Palace once stood, the "T'rdat Gate" the place of allowed to form republics. "It's ironic," the the Residence Quarter. This khachkar and those in front of the old entry to the old temple and current cathedral. Khrmian Hairik said, "they gave us a big pot of residence were part of a field of 10,000 khachkars porridge, and all the big groups took out their which was destroyed by in 2007. ladles and (made a country). But all I had was a (27) Geghard Khachkar, 13th century. ladle made from paper (the original agreement by Red tufa, with elaborate and fluid depiction of the the world powers giving independence to cross surrounded by ripening fruit. Armenia). How could I take my portion with a paper ladle?” The memorial is of a large eagle (28) Sodk Khachkar, 1543. guarding a ladle made from stone. Pure spring A companion to (25), the black basalt design is water gushes from the ladle, a symbol of life to all similar in its simple yet striking design. who will partake. (29) Aghjots Vank Khachkar, 1278.

The center Genocide Monument (18) was (30) Geghard Khachkar, 13th century. dedicated i n 1965. The Urartu Menhir (19) is from the 8th-7th centuries BCE. The was uncovered during the 1955-57 renovation, lying directly below the Ijman Seghan altar, or the spot where Christ is believed to have struck the earth to show the location for building the cathedral. Its excavation, plus that of an older fire pit under the Go to your right, by the Bell Tower, added in the On your far left as you just enter the courtyard is High Altar, strengthened the reliability of using 18th century. Flanking each side are Tombs of the Church Hotel (11) reserved for church ancient sources to uncover locations of Armenia's the Catholicos (21 and 22). Approach the Clock dignitaries and clergy. On the far right is the pre-Christian monuments. Tower (34) on the Northern wall, and you will see 1909 Theological Seminary (13), closed by the part of the collection of Khachkars in the complex. Soviets and reopened in 1991. The Column of From the northern monuments, go west (right as The first you will see is the large 1233 Grigor Khachkars (13a) is a tradition from medieval you face the cathedral's northern side) past the Haghbakian Khachkar (33), up on your left as times. The local office for the World Council of Cathedral to the large arched gate that leads to you approach the clock tower. The Grigor Churches (14) is in the seminary building, a the western or residential quarter. Haghbakian Khachkar is considered one of the helpful starting point for visitors of member masterpieces of Khachkar art, sculpted during the churches. They aren't a tour office, but they will period when stone crosses reached their most arrange for specialized guided tours and meetings elegant expressions. (31) Makenis Khachkar, 9th century. In shape between member visitors and Armenian clergy. and design, this Khachkar is very close to pagan Astounding to remember is that in Armenia more menhirs and marking stones. Rounded at the top On your left as you approach the cathedral via the than 40,000 khachkars were carved (some say with bas relief cross and sun symbols above and center walkway is Katnaghbiur, or Milk Spring more than 100,000), and no two are alike in their on either side of the upper part of the cross. The (12), a memorial fountain to 28 victims of the intricate patterns. Khachkars along the Northern tree of life is as dominant on the surface as the genocide. Dedicated in 1965, the inscription reads wall: from west to east: cross. in part "...for…grandfather Avak and parents (24) "Amnaprkich", 1279, Vayots Dzor. Manuk and Aziz Ter Grigoriants, in the 1915 The Amnaprkich Khachkar is an advanced form of  Continue to the S side of the cathedral. genocide died twenty-eight relatives and their Khachkar, and the closest thing to statuary in father's garden milk spring." Armenian religious art. A deeply etched depiction CATHEDRAL EXTERIOR of the crucifixion with twisting vines in the You approach the Cathedral (16) facing the As you return to the cathedral on the northern background, sun symbols over a bull and eagle, eastern or annex side, an addition built in 1869 to face, you can see the different strata of the Virgin Mary and Joseph below the cross, and a house the first treasury museum. On the left are construction, beginning with the main wall, which supplicating figure. At the base is a hunting scene, the Cathedral Rectory and Mataghatun (15). has blocks of stone from the original 301-303 perhaps symbolizing a victory. Look to your right as you walk along the north side The T'rdat Gate (23) commemorates King T'rdat edifice, inscribed in Greek, the language used before the adoption of the Mashtots Armenian of the cathedral and you will see three large III, and was first constructed in the 7th century as (25) Sodk Khachkar, 1543. Alphabet (ca. 405). You can also see angled monuments. the main approach to the cathedral. Legend has it Wide based black basalt, with alternating panels of cornices in the upper wall, which show where the the stones came from his 2nd century palace, but saints and crosses flanking the central cross. Sun original roofline was. A reconstruction of the The Khrmian Hairik Ladle (17) deftly alludes to a probably the gate is at the approximate location of burst is a geometric knot, a line with no beginning original design shows that the original church had comment the then Catholicos Khrmian (r. 1883- the entrance to the old palace, since the pagan or end. a central "drum" topped with a conical roof, and 1907) made after returning from the 1878 Berlin temple the church was built over would have been four smaller "drums" over the four corner chapels. Conference following the defeat of Ottoman Turkey adjacent to the royal compound. The gate was (26) Old Juga Khachkar, 1602. by Russia. During the conference the World renovated in the 19th century. Beyond the gate is The Old Juga Khachkars are distinguished by their Powers first gave, then led by Bismarck, took away the Residence Quarter, where the Old Residence deep relief and oriental geometric patterns. Juga

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Look just above the arch supporting the northern e. Vazgen I - 1908-1955-1994 resurrection of Christ occurred on the eighth day. dome. In place of an apostle or evangelist, a The octagon is the favored form for the baptismal f. Ter Ter Gevorg V T'p'khisetsi - 1911-1930 likeness of Shah Abbas I (20) appears, linked font and conical domes. - b. 28 Oct. 1847 d. 8 May 1930 with history and legend. The story goes that in the early 17th century the Persian army was g. Makar I - b. 13 Apr. 1813 d. 16 Apr. 1891 advancing on Echmiadzin to destroy the cathedral. Overnight the carving the Shah appeared, and  To continue the tour, continue to the W side of when they army arrived, they were asked if the the cathedral and the bell tower, then the Shah wanted to destroy his own image. Hearing interior. that his own likeness was on the face of the church, the Shah became its protector instead, BELL TOWER lavishing gifts on the cathedral. Built in 1658, the Bell Tower is richly adorned in CATHOLICOS TOMBS (21,22) the "Armenian Oriental Style", which borrows The graves on either of the bell tower are for inspiration from both the Persian and European eleven Catholicos from the 19th-20th centuries, classical styles. The eight sided dome is set above each of which had a profound impact on events of heavily carved arches and pediments. An extensive renovation of the cathedral in 484- their time. Most written in Grapar or old 486 under the patronage of Prince Vahan Armenian, they are the most asked about and Mamikonian transformed the church into a central least deciphered monuments in the complex: plan with protruding walls at the cardinal points (the semi-circular walls below the small domes). A The painted carvings on the mantels are some of central dome, probably made of wood, was set the most interesting artwork. Each mantel is a above the entire edifice. unique design with three geometric seals and animal imagery. Flanking each upper seal are The dome was built in 618 under the patronage of male and female pelicans, ducks, geese, cockerels, Catholicos Komitas I, as were four smaller ones at falcons, peacocks, storks and bluebirds. Between the cardinal points. Alterations were made to the the lower two seals are a Stag, Boar, Lion, large and small domes in 1627, the western dome Unicorn, Goat, Bison and two carvings of an was replaced by the bell tower in 1658 and bas Elephant. relief carvings were added to the facade.

The interior of the bell tower dome is covered with frescos and painted carvings, crowned by 8 six- winged cherub heads. The winged cherub is North side (21): repeated throughout the cathedral design and on a. Ter Ter Khoren I - 1873-1932-1938 Armenian chalices, vestments and scapulars. The figure bears striking resemblance to ancient b. Hovhannes R. Karbetsi - d. 25 March 1842 Mesopotamian and Urartian winged figures found c. Gevorg IV - b. 5 July 1813 d. 6 December on pagan temple walls. 1882 Why six wings? In sacred numerology the d. Ter Matevos II Kostandnapoletsi (from number six was considered a perfect number (the Constantinople) - b. 22 Feb. 1845 d. 11 Dec. 1910 sum 3+3, or 1+2+3, or 2x3; 3 was considered the - (Catholicos) 1908-1910 holiest number, and now stands for the trinity). In Southside (22): the bible God created the heavens and earth in 6 The outer walls, arches and pillars are carved with The carvings found on the outside of the church days, Christ died in the sixth hour of the sixth day. geometric patterns, grape vines, plants and include the twelve apostles on the facets of the a. Daniel I Paiyetsi - 39 Oct. 1808 intertwining lines. The carvings on the upper drum and carvings of the evangelists and St. b. Nerses V Ashtaraketsi - b. 13.02.1761 d. It was considered the number before the end and arches depict two snakes (also called dragons) Grigor on the bell tower. Around the drum of the 1302. 1857 the resurrection in early Christian symbolism. with open mouths. The symbol of wisdom, snake main dome is a series of 48 stone "seals", There are eight sides to the dome with eight imagery is pre-Christian in origin, gloriously elaborate geometric patterns including a Star of c. Mkrtich I Vaneti (Khrmian Hairik) - b. 4 supporting mantels. The first number after seven usurped in this design motif. The whole is a David. Apr. 1820 d. 29 Oct. 1907 (connected with celestial life), eight was baroque fantasy surprisingly in harmony with the d. Gevorg VI - b. 2 Nov. 1868 d. 9 May 1954 considered the symbol of life, the new life after solemn 5th century exterior. baptism (both in pagan and Christian times). The

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16 Nerses Shnorhali, H. 17 Madonna and Child, H. CATHEDRAL WEST ENTRANCE Hovnatanian 17 Apostle Hakopos Zebetehai The two paintings flanking the main doors are of (Jacob) 18 Apostle Petros (Peter) Ss. Poghos (1) and Petros (2), and the two grave 19 Apostle Poghos (Paul) stones underneath are inscribed in Grapar: (left of 20 Apostle Bartughimeos door) "1163 - 9th month… in 1405 Ter Aghexander (Bartholomew) 21 Apostle Tovma (Thomas) Catholicos laid in the mausoleum November", and 22 Apostle Andreas (Andrew) (right of door) "Son of Christ the only son 23 North Chapel 24 Astvatsatsin, anonymous Ztraghksand'r Riiznadtsi - November 10". 25 Baptismal Font 26 Founding of Echmiadzin, anonymous CATHEDRAL INTERIOR 27 Christ in the Garden, H. Hovnatanian Legend and Movses Khorenatsi’s 5th century 28 Christ Washing the Apostles' Feet, H. Hovnatanian say that the first cathedral at 29 S. Thaddeus Apostle, H. Echmiadzin was erected by King T'rdat III and Hovnatanian 30 Throne, 17th c Grigor Lusavorich in two years (301-303). 31 Railing, 17th c 32 Altar Frontal, N. Hovnatanian & According to these accounts, the exact location sons 33 High Altar Apron: Cushion for the and design for the cathedral appeared to Grigor in True Cross a vision, where Christ descended to the Ararat 34 Altar, Virgin and Child, N. Hovnatanian Valley with a golden hammer in his right hand and 35 S. Bartholomew Apostle, H. struck the locations where four churches were to Hovnatanian be built: three Martyria (two of which were to be 36 Last Supper, H. Hovnatanian 37 Apostle Semeon (Simon) dedicated to the martyrs Hripsimeh and Guyaneh), 38 Apostle Tadevos (Thaddeus) and the future cathedral at Vagharshapat. 39 Apostle Hakopos Alpeai (Jacob)

40 Apostle Matevos (Mathew) 41 Apostle Hovhanes (John) The "Ijman Seghan" or Altar of Descent at the [Figure 1] 42 Apostle Pilippos (Phillip) center of the Cathedral is the location of Christ's 43 South Chapel appearance in the vision; hence the name 44 Christ Praying in the Garden, H. However, there is some disagreement on this, with Hovnatanian Echmiadzin (‘the descent of the Only Begotten’). 45 Coronation of the Virgin, H. others saying that the original structure was a

Hovnatanian basilica, in keeping with the Greco-Roman style for 46 Grigor Lusavorich, H. Hovnatanian The vision described the church composition while Pagan temples in vogue at the time of the interpreting its elements. The main site was CATHEDRAL MUSEUM conversion. If true, then the building had little marked with a circular base of gold on which a. Radiating crosses, flabellum and resemblance to Grigor’s vision, and went through dove chrism rested a column of fire with a capital of cloud, substantial changes when it was renovated in the b. Silver chalices, 16th c reliquary surmounted by a cross of light. The whole was c. Reliquary of the Thorn, scripture 5th century. surmounted with four pillars of fire and one central covers, chalices, crosses d. Psalters, reliquaries and silver dome. The sites for the martyr’s chapels were crosses WAS ECHMIADZIN A FIRE TEMPLE? marked with red bases, columns of clouds, capitals e. Reliquary of St. Andreas Of course there was a fire temple on the site f. Meron Vessel of fire, and crosses of light; these columns were before the cathedral was erected—the fire pit g. Vazgen I, 20th c lower than the central column. The whole h. silver, gold and bronze reliquaries under the main altar with its Greco-Roman pillars construction was surmounted by a canopied Amnaprkich (All Savior) of Havuts confirms the fact. However, some have asserted Tar construction of cloud in the form of a dome. i. Relic of Geghard, Relics of that the fire pit was added after the first church

Thaddeus and Bartholomew was built by 5th c. Sassanid Magis intent on j. Chalices, 13th c Aragats S. LAYOUT subverting the new religion. N’shan Reliquary As you enter the church, look at the floor plan. k. Patriarchal staffs The original cathedral was intended as a physical CATHEDRAL MAP LEGEND l. King Tigran the Great Coin, Manuscripts There is no historic record to back this up, and it is 1 Tomb m. manuscripts, Silver crosses with and jewels duplication of Grigor's vision, and is believed to n. Shah Abbas I lamp much more likely that—if the pit is 5th c—the magi 2 Tomb have had a quadruple apse (cruciform) hall with 3 S. Poghos Fresco o. Right Hand of John the Baptist Relic re-erected an existing one, since the country was 4 S. Petros Fresco p. Vestments four corner chapels and entries on the west and steeped in the practice at the time of conversion. 5 Main Door q. St. George Slaying the Dragon tapestry southern sides. The whole was surmounted by five 6 Christ Entering , N. Hovnatanian r. Censors and vessels But if they did, then the entire story of the first pointed domes; four in the corner and one central. 7 Hovnan Horotnetsi, N. Hovnatanian s. Komitas church is called to question, and the original 8 Crucifixion, Hovnatanian Bros. t. Komitas Crown u. Vestments cathedral was indeed the Greco-Roman temple 9 Avetun: The Annunciation, S. Lehatsi Close off the corners of the present church; 10 Sahak Hairapet, S. Nersissian v. Collection of staffs that surrounds the fire pit—something no historian 11 Ijman Seghan w. Russian Icons imagine the entire structure as a square with very is willing to admit. It also flies in face of Grigor’s 12 17th c Throne thick walls and one window, and you have what 13 S. Mesrop Varapet, S. Nersissian vision for the cathedral, which first destroyed the many consider the original design (See Figure 1). 14 Avetun: Gabriel, S. Lehatsi old temple (Christ’s hand strikes the spot with 15 Baptism, Hov. Hovnatanian

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a traveler’s reference guide ® golden hammer—destroying what was before) and enough for annexes), and the four central Now add the 18th c bell tower, the church museum of candle and incense smoke hide much of the then built a new. archways. The building is topped by five points: behind the main altar, and the results of a 1955- detail, and the interior is poorly lit. four corner bases with fire pits and a central 57 renovation when the pagan fire pit was modified dome. discovered under the main altar, the structure and foundation were reinforced, the floor was marbled, and the murals were restored. This is the building Now, close off the four arches (with semicircular you see now. (Figure 3) apses) and place a window or doorway in three of the closed arches. Replace the upper fire pits with four pointed domes with a larger pointed dome in the center, and then look again at Figure 1.

Reread Grigor’s description of the church as “a column of fire with a capital of cloud, surmounted by a cross of light.” No look at this figure of a 3rd c fire temple:

5TH CENTURY RENOVATION When the church was rebuilt in 484-486 into a central plan with corner niches, the four semi- circular apses were extended out from the walls, Like the frescos and marble paintings, canvas and two chapels were added on the North and paintings are almost exclusively by the South sides, flanking the main altar. That is Hovnatanian family and school, except for the essentially the church as it exists now, except it Avetun diptych facing the entrance: Archangel

Zoroastrian fire temple on 2nd c coin had a smaller wooden dome which was replaced by [Figure 3] Gabriel (14) and The Annunciation (9), which the current one in 618. Of the original building, were painted by Stepanos Lehatsi (?-1689), and And reading his vision carefully, an intriguing only small multi-colored blocks in the altar apse DÉCOR Stepanos Nersissian's (1815-1884) portraits of possibility arises, which may indeed confirm the (remnants of gilded stone ) and the bases The overall decoration of the Echmiadzin Cathedral Mesrop Mashtots (13) and Sahak Partev (10). fire pit story while preserving Grigor’s vision. of four pylons which were used as the inner is tied to the Hovnatanian family of painters. The Pagan temples of this type were widespread and abutments of the central-dome building. (See first of these is the painter Naghash Hovnatan For many, the classical depictions will wear thin, commonly designs, with an inner sanctum Figure 2) (1661-1722), who was also a poet and scribe of but it may help to know that these paintings surrounded by Greco-Roman columns set on a Shorot as well as a bard. The painted dome is a represent the bulk of Armenia’s artistic efforts in pedestal. This suggest a basilica, not a cross form portion of his work. Another is the Madonna the 18th c, before more secular and western suggested in Grigor’s vision. painted on the marble frontal (33) of the high influences captures artists’ attention during the altar. Russian Imperial Era. Without it, the later romantic painting might not have occurred as The entire composition was later completed by his suddenly (and on such an epic scale) as it did. descendants, including the Twelve Apostles by his sons Hakop (ca. 1757) and Harutiun (mid 18th century). During the reign of Catholicos Ghukas, Naghash's grandson Hovnatan Hovnatanian (1730?-1801) continued decorating the Cathedral, adding most of the paintings. Assisting in his work were unknown Armenian apprentices. Paintings were also created for the cathedral by Hovnatan' son Mkrtum (1779-1846).

Also as you enter, you will see a repeated pattern of cherubs with six wings. Gold leaf sets off the each face against a deep color tone. The number 12 is repeated throughout the dome: twelve Zoroastrian Fire Temple; note “columns of fire” in the windows in the supporting drum, twelve winged corners. angels above each window, twelve ‘trees of life’ pointing to the inner circle of the dome. The color But what if the design was a combination of scheme moves from more earthly tones at the several types? Look at the image below of a [Figure 2] lower edge to blue and gold and green as the Interspersed with traditional themes like Hovnatan Zoroastrian Fire Temple in Iran. Note at its square design reaches the upper dome, with red and gold Hovnatanian's Madonna and Child (17), outline, the four corner columns (with room delineating the inner design. Unfortunately years Baptism (15), Christ Washing the Apostles'

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Feet (29), The Last Supper (37) and Virgin and Child, S. Stepanos on the left, and S. Thaddeus and St. Bartholomew, a gift from Pope Coronation of the Virgin (46) are purely Pilipos (Philip) on the right. Repeated use of CATHEDRAL MUSEUM - زÚð î²Ö²ðÆ John Paul II . Armenian subjects such as the anonymous The cypress-like trees reinforces the tree of life effect ²ܶ²ð²Ü (سÛñ î³×³ñÇ Ã³Ý·³ñ³Ý) Madonna with John the Baptist and Grigor the in the dome. j. Among the silver chalices from the 17th-19th Illuminator, and Hovnatanian's Grigor the Enter the museum on the south side of the high centuries is the 13th c S. N'shan Reliquary, Illuminator (47), S. Thaddeus the Apostle altar through the door under the painting Grigor originally housed at . (30), S. Bartholomew the Apostle (36), S. Lusavorich Taken from the Tree. Nerses Schnorhali (16), Naghash Hovnatanian's k. Patriarchal staffs of silver, wood, ivory, Hovhan Hovnetsi (7), and the anonymous The The museum is closed during services, otherwise gold and inlay. Founding of Echmiadzin (27). open Tuesdays through Sundays from 9 am to 5 pm. No admission, but guides encourage l. Coins. The oldest coins in the treasury Included in The Founding of Echmiadzin are donations. The museum also has the entrance to collection date from the 5th century BCE. Early pictures of Armenian kings, from the first king Haik the Pagan crypt, which may or may not be open to coins were struck in Greece and Asia Minor, using to a contemporary of Christ named Apkar, to the the public (the church wavers from admitting to Greek and Hellenistic figures. Hellenistic Coins are figures between T'rdat the Great and Khosrov. denying the existence of the Pagan Fire Pit silver struck with the portraits of Alexander of Two altars face the main entrance to the church. underneath the Ijman Seghan. Macedonia and the Seleucid kings. The center The one in front is the Ijman Seghan (11), or piece is the King Tigran the Great Coin, from the Altar of Descent, where Christ is believed to have South Hall The museum houses but a portion of 1st. c BCE. struck the earth with his golden hammer in S. the church treasury, but is still impressive with its Grigor's vision. The lower edge of the marble collection of relics, artifacts, church vestments and m. Manuscripts from the 14th-16th centuries, platform is painted with tongues of fire. Originally tapestries. It is not possible to describe each item silver crosses encrusted with amber and jewels. the altar had a marble canopy set on pillars, which in detail, but the most notable items on display are was moved to the high altar at Guyaneh Vank. A second throne (31) is to the left of the high (by display case): EAST HALL altar, and was probably made in the city of Ak'n, To the left of the Ijman Seghan is an elaborately donated to Echmiadzin in 1712. It is heavily gilt a. 18th century Flabellum and Dove Chrism. n. Shah Abbas I lamp, 17th c gift from the carved 17th c. throne (12), with a model of the with gold leaf, the columns and side panels The flabellum is rimmed with bells which ring Shah to the church. cathedral on the canopy. It was a gift from the covered with mother of pearl. Both thrones are during the Eucharist. Roman pope to the Catholicos Yeghiazar. used by the Catholicos when he attends service. o. Right Hand of John the Baptist Relic and b. Reliquary of Noah's Ark of silver and gold. the Right Hand of Thaddeus, both of gilded silver with filigree and jewels. The hand is held with the c. The centerpiece is the Reliquary of the tip of the middle finger touching the tip of the Thorn of Christ. Silver and gilt Scripture covers, thumb. The circle formed represents the world, chalices and crosses. while the three remaining fingers symbolize the trinity. d. Psalters, reliquaries and silver crosses. p. 17th-19th centuries Vestments of silk, e. Relic of St. Andreas. gold and silver thread, beaded with pearls and jewels. f. Meron Vessel, 19th century q. 1799 St. George Slaying the Dragon, g. Painting of Vazgen I, 20th century hand woven tapestry from India, measuring 63 sq. meters. h. Among the silver, gold and bronze reliquaries and crosses is a small wooden panel, the 9th-10th Pagan Crypt. The entrance to the crypt is century Amnaprkich (All Savior) of Havuts Tar directly behind the large tapestry on the inner east which represents Christ's descent from the cross. wall. Ask to be let in, if you look like a tipper, they The High Altar (34) in front of the Ijman Seghan North and South Chapels paintings of the In the center of this composition is Jesus with might do, though lately they have been denying is called the Cushion for the Holy Cross. A relic of apostles include those of Ss. Thaddeus (39), Paul cross-adorned halo, long curly hair, being lowered admittance (sometimes, denying the existence of the true cross is believed to be within the reliquary (20), and Bartholomew (21), who are believed to by two workmen, one holding a pair of pliers to the fire pit under the main altar). The crypt was just below the painting of the Virgin Mary and have preached in the provinces of Siunik and pull the spikes out. The overall artistic concept as discovered in the 1950’s by workers shoring up the the Christ Child (35). Note that the crosses on Goghtn (present day Nakhichevan) ca. 100 . They well as the details resembles Gothic sculpture. foundations. The fire pit with remnants of classical the columns on either side of the altar emphasize are also believed to have been killed by King column bases was the temple over which T’rdat the number 3, and that each end of the cross Arshakuni who considered the i. One the most impressive display cases hold built the first cathedral ca. 303-311 . Some kind incorporates 3 design points (for the three natures conversions a danger to his power: among those The Relic of Geghard in a 1687 silver reliquary. of temple has been at the spot from at least the of God). who converted were members of the court and his "Geghard" means "", and the relic is believed early Bronze Age, attested to by the layout of the sister, killed with other early converts. The to be the spear that pierced Christ's side. The relic Pagan inner sanctum, identical to those found in The frontal decoration (33) were painted with Armenian church is an Apostolic Church, tracing its was originally kept in Geghard Monastery (Vank). early Bronze Age sites at Mokhra Blur, Adablur and gold leaf detail and feature the 12 apostles, the roots to these Saints. The two gold reliquaries hold the Relics of St. Metsamor, nearby.

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THE RESIDENCE QUARTER - ìºÐ²ð²ÜÆ 42. Hairavank Khachkar, 9th The church has never been comfortable with the ø²ðàð¸ô (ì»Ñ³ñ³ÝÇÝ ù³ñáñ¹Á) c. site’s existence, one time denying its existence before Soviet era archeologists published their Patriarch Church Secretariat, tel. 517123. 43. Sodk Khachkar, 1297 excavation findings, with pictures. Still, they never openly publicized the site, reluctantly The Residence Quarter houses the Old Residence 44. Gladzor Khachkar, 1296 opening the door to the pit for (persistent) (32), the New Residence (36), Offices and the enquiring visitors. Lately they seem to have Treasury Museum (37). 45. Jugha Khachkars resorted to their previous form, removing the key A Jugha, 1602 to the door and even telling some one B Jugha, by Grigor, 1602 unsuspecting visitor we talked to that the pit never C Jugha, 1601 existed in the first place! Ask, and be persistence, D Jugha, 1602 you may just be the lucky one to gain entry. E Jugha, 1602

NORTH HALL  To continue the tour, proceed to r. 17th-18th century silver and bronze old residence (32). Censors and vessels. The crystal crosses date from the 10th century and they include the Altar Cross of Ani (966) OLD RESIDENCE - ÐÆÜ ìºÐ²ð²Ü (ÐÇÝ ì»Ñ³ñ³Ý) s. Bust of Komitas, based on death mask. This 1736 building was both home t. Komitas Crown on the center shelf. and office for the Mother See until the New Residence was completed u. 18th-19th cc. Vestments in 1962. In 1971 it was converted The Residence Quarter is on the western side of into a museum to house artifacts v. Collection of staffs. One of the most T'rdat Gate. A guard station is on the southern and treasures of the church. unique symbols developed by the Armenian church side of the gate. They don't keep official hours at is found in its staffs. Repeated use of the Vishap the Old Residence, but we were told to come by in OUTSIDE (dragon, which in old Armenia was a snake-like the mornings and early afternoons during the fish) motif evolved into Christian symbolism on the week, and after High Service (about 1 pm) on There is a small courtyard outside staff mounts. The designs are very close to those Sundays. 35b. Geghard Khachkar, XIII c. Red tufa with with five Old Juga Khachkars and found on dragon stones from pagan times. tree of life opening to twelve spirals. The ends of an animal icon from the 1st millennium BCE. The Only invited visitors are allowed to view the Old the cross are formed from a continuous geometric Khachkars are examples from the old Armenian The demons are always framing a central cross Residence as long as they are escorted, but most knot pattern, and the sun disk is made from two quarter in Juga: that was mounted above, or formed into a spiral are refused entry to the New Residence and birds with their necks intertwined. pattern. Stunning examples of how symbolism Treasury Museum (reserved for bigwigs and a. Khachkar, Old Juga, 1603. The cross is remained while exterior design changed are two donors). Sometimes they do allow walk-in 35c. Geghard Khachkar, XII-XIII cc. carved like the frame of church window. Top panel spiral staffs. visitors, but you need permission and an escort to shows seated Christ with geometric designs on get past the guard. Ask around the compound for 35d. Geghard Khachkar, XIII c. both sides. Bottom panel has kneeling figure of A 17th century gold staff is surmounted by six permission to enter the museum. Many guards do donor in front of sun symbol. snakes entwined together so that only their heads not speak English, so ask "Karogh em aitselel hin 35e. Noradus Khachkar, 1745 are free. Close to it is a 19th -century staff that veharanuh?" (kah-GHO ehm ai-tseh-LEL heen veh- b. Khachkar by Grigor, Old Jugha, 1603. has reduced the realistic picture of the snakes to a hah-RAHN-uh/ 'May I visit the Old Residence?'). 35f. Aghjots Khachkar, 1278 Deep geometric Masterpiece of geometric design with cross in a baroque fantasy of gilded blooms and leaves. But patterns forming a patchwork of crosses in the ‘window case’. Top panel shows four supplicants on look closer and you will still find the six snakes; The effort is well worth it, since the Old Residence frame surround the central cross with two smaller either side of enthroned Christ seated over the the ‘heads’ are the gilded flowers, the leaves their is probably the most interesting museum in the ones resting on a large tree of life. four evangelists. jaws, and they are swallowing or ejecting the next complex, presented in much the way it was when head of blooms. in use as the office and residence for the Mother 38. Winged Khachkar, XVII-XVIII cc. c. Khachkar, Old Juga, 1603. Deeply etched See during the 18th-19th centuries. cross in gothic-style window representation, with

w. Russian Icons, 17th-18th century. 39. Hovhanavank Khachkar by Vardan, 1171 double bodied winged horse and kneeling angels in RESIDENCE QUARTER KHACHKARS top panel. Â To continue the tour, exit cathedral and proceed The quarter itself holds some beautiful Khachkar 40. Khachkar W to the T’rdat gate and the Residence Quarter. examples: d. Khachkar, Old Jugha, 1603. Five crosses in

41. Gladzor Khachkar, 1279 top panel, memorial carving of prince on horse at 35a. Sodk Khachkar, XVI c. bottom.

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e. Khachkar, Old Jugha, 1603. Geometric sun staffs in ivory, silver, gold and gold with imbedded cases (g) holding gold and silver embroidered symbol has design echoed in side panels and the jewels. vestments, gold, silver and jeweled scapulars,  To continue the stylized tree of life on either side of the cross. The crosses, miters and belts. The 18th century hand- tour, exit influence is clearly seen in the repeated SECOND ROOM woven carpet is based on a dragon design. residence and shapes and the florid details. This small room has a display showing objects proceed to the belonging to Khrmian Hairik, including a large The most amazing piece is usually missed by New Residence There is also an amber tsbekh and silver watches. An 18th c visitors. The black wrought iron chandelier (h) is (36). exquisite wooden mosaic is opposite as is a collection of miters and so intricate and smoothly executed it is often khachkar panel silver crosses. The carpet you are walking on is a considered machine made. Adorned with clumps of NEW inside the portico, Kharabi and like the icon to your right, is 17th - grapes and delicate vine tendrils, the piece is RESIDENCE - lower level. It is century. actually 11th c. made for an Armenian prince in Üàð ìºÐ²ð²Ü unbelievably Kilikia. (Üáñ ì»Ñ³ñ³Ý) intricate in its KHOHANOTS (KITCHEN)

design and The old kitchen has a large fireplace set into a THRONE ROOM The New execution, and niche on the far wall. In front is a display of china, The centerpiece of the residence is the throne Residence is both sadly, samples of those used by each Catholicos who room, where the Catholicos held council and met the home and deteriorating to lived here. On the walls are photographs and dignitaries. The ceiling (a) is lined with two tiers office for the the degree that paintings including a small one, Nerses Ashtarak of oriental pilaster work, covered with frescoes Catholicos for All museum staff are Meets the Russian Army, which was a favorite of painted by Hakop and Harutiun Hovnatanian Armenians. Open afraid to move it Vazgen I (no doubt an inspiration during the between 1739-1740. by invitation only. indoors for fear of Soviet period). To try your luck, it crumpling. It is The frescoes are incredibly detailed using call the Monastery 18th-19th c A very small display case shows photos and letters geometric patterns then in favor at the Persian Office (5-34-34), (dating unsure). belonging to Komitas, barely a fraction of the court, yet on closer look they are actually from where English See it now before collection from the old Komitas Museum which was Armenia's medieval manuscript tradition. They speaking staff is it evaporates. closed to make way for the Gevorkian Seminary. have never been retouched. The oriental carpets available. 18th century manuscript miniatures also line the (b) were made by Armenian weavers in the 18th

INSIDE walls. century and follow the patterns established by In case you do get Hovnatanian on the arches. in, a few pieces to Enter through an antechamber which holds a look for: variety of silver and bronze Meron Vessels and The throne (c) was carved in 1838. The paintings ceremonial pitchers used to pour fragrant essences in the throne room are portraits of Gevorg IV, The first floor vestibule and grand stairway are from Kilikia, Armenia and Balasah. Also in the Khrmian Hairik (d) (Y. Tadevosian, 1900), Markar rather impressive, using Armenian stonework to a antechamber is a 13th -century khachkar. Catholicos (who brought Komitas to Echmiadzin), sumptuous degree. At the top of the stairway are Hovsep Aghutian, and The Vision of Grigor the two Khachkars of note: The main residence is up a flight of stairs flanked Illuminator (Y. Tadevosian, 1901) and an by five large paintings, Christ in Gethsemane embroidered Echmiadzin Cathedral tapestry (e). One of the most beautiful Khachkars ever sculpted (Arshakvert), The Annunciation, "Voghp" (Pahlevi, is the 1308 Khachkar by Momik. The 17th c), The Crucifixion, and a large 1835 Last design features 14 geometric patterns on the sides Supper. of the cross, a sun burst of patterns below the

cross, with three figures in bas relief in the top THE OFFICE pattern. The intricate design and incisions into the

stone to create the lace pattern is mind boggling. The Office is left as the Catholicos Gevorg VI (r.

1945-1954) used it. When you enter this space, The 14th century Artsakh Khachkar, brought you go back in time to the lives of 20 Catholicos. from Nagorno Karabakh, the Khachkar almost The floors are covered with 16th-18th cc. carpets, DINING HALL rivals the Momik Khachkar with its deeply cut the walls are hung with early 19th c. Mkrtum The most striking part of the Dining Hall is the intricate geometric pattern. Two angels are shown Hovnatanian paintings and others of Gevorg VI, large 18th century wall hanging (a) with scenes immediately below the cross, three above. Khoren Murahakian (reputedly killed by order of from the bible. The painting was made by wood- Beautiful oriental details that is uniquely Armenian. Stalin in 1938), Gevorg IV, Martiros Izmilian and print. It is as detailed as an embroidered tapestry.

Nerses Ashtaraketsi. At the far end of the hall is the 1791 tapestry Son In the small room off the throne room are two THRONE ROOM of Christ (b), incredibly detailed and intricate. The pieces of note: a 16th century chandelier using a The Throne room of the new residence has white The Hovnatanian paintings include Aram two 18th century paintings flanking the tapestry dragon design, and the 18th century walnut chair marble floors with polished cream cover stones on Takavor (King), T’rdat Takavor, Tigran Takavor are David Anhaght (Invincible) (c) and Movses in the corner. Carved from one piece of wood by a the walls. At the top of the wall are and Agat Takavor. Display cases show vestments, Khorenatsi (d), by Hovnatan Hovnatanian (1730?- Spanish Armenian, the chair is an intricate web of representations of pilgrimage churches in Armenia, gold and silver implements, and a collection of 1801). Icons (e), tapestries and woodblock paintings (f) line the other walls, as do glass design, resting on carved lion heads. including Ani, Zvartnots, and of course, the

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a traveler’s reference guide ® cathedral. The throne is located at one end of the wood and fabrics were imprinted with dyes applied room. Gold and silver smith work includes the Traded through Europe and the Middle East, to separate wooden casts. Wool, cotton, silk, and Khotakeratz St. N'shan, commissioned in 1300 by Armenian woven rugs developed into separate other fabrics were used, while dyes were made The 1983 Vardanank Tapestry, by G. Khanjian is Prince Ichi Proshian. The ornamentation of its schools of design, and it is possible to distinguish from animal, plant, and mineral sources. in a large hall opposite the throne room. On the blinds and the delicacy of its engravings are between those made in Caesurae, Sebastia, New end wall is a huge tapestry. Hand woven, it depicts examples of master goldsmiths. Julfa, Lvov, , Goghtn, Artsakh, Siunik, the triumph of Armenians over adversity, and Kars and the Ararat Valley. includes a who’s who of Armenian history. The Others include a 1443 closet and the 17th century entire design and complexity is extraordinary, as is St. N'shan of Aragats. The most famous are the dragon rugs which, as the mammoth size. the name suggests, were woven with intricate Engraved metal work includes the 1656 paten dragon designs. The oldest known dragon rug The 1448 Holy Banner of Grigor the (wafer box), and Gospel covers and copper bowls dates from the fifteenth century, which was Illuminator depicts on one side the saint, who is prepared by the workers of Caesura and Tokat. probably the beginning of the golden era for blessing with his right hand while holding the Bible Armenian rug . in his left. Beside him are T'rdat III and St. Hripsimeh. The other side of the banner illustrates In addition to dragon rugs, Armenians developed Christ enthroned, holding the Gospel in his left other types of rugs including Gohar rugs, Eagle hand while his right is held in benediction. Over rugs, and Serpent rugs. 18th century Armenian him are pictures of the sun and the moon. rugs and travel rugs woven in Artsakh are featured in the museum collection. Beautiful plant motif rugs from Artsakh, Siunik, and Vaspurakan regions  To continue the tour, proceed to Treasury are also included. Museum (37). EMBROIDERY TREASURY MUSEUM - ¶²ÜÒºÐÆ Armenians developed a variety of regional ²ܶ²Ð²Ü (¶³ÝÓ»ÑÇ Â³Ý·³Ñ³Ý) embroidery patterns and styles at embroidery

centers in Vaspurakan, Marash, Aintap, Ararat, Smelted objects include a 12th century cross, as Here's where your eyes pop out (those lucky few Karin, Shirak-K'ghin, Siunik, Kilikia, , well as a number of chalices. who gain entry, that is). The Treasury Museum Tbilisi, Istanbul, Smyrna, Bursa, and houses an extensive collection of artifacts and gifts Astrakhan. WOODCARVING given to the Echmiadzin church. The collection is Wood was widely used in the making of lecterns, truly astounding, both for its rare and precious Religious needlework falls into three groups, church doors, frames and book bindings. In the collection, and for the depth and breadth of the Manuscript and Book Covers; Curtains, Banners early medieval period the at Dvin and Ani holdings. and Embroidered Cloth; and Ritual Vestments. featured engraved wooden panels. Armenian

churches and monasteries used wooden doors The museum is open to invited guests only The most impressive examples use intricate decorated with fine artistic shapes (such as at the between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., by special needlework on deep red silk with contrasting Arakelots monastery in Mush, Tatev, Sevan, and colored silk, silver and gold thread, accented with arrangement (see ResidenceH Quarter p. 32 for Theodosia) on which geometric and floral designs details). Even if you can't get in, use these notes pearls and precious stones. Armenian imprinted cloth reached Russia and other were carved along with thematic pictures. to further understand the artifacts and relics on European countries via caravan routes. display in the Cathedral and Old Residence Also impressive are embroidered scenes from Particularly prized were Armenian fabrics imprinted The best examples of these in the Museum are the museums. scripture and religious characters, the Madonna, with the Karmir. Van, Shorot, , wooden Column Capitals from the Arakelots Christ, and the Evangelists. Particular Istanbul, and Madras were among the most Church of Sevan. Among the wooden crosses is a The following is a short introduction and masterpieces on display include the Miters of important centers of Armenian imprinting. 13th century Cross. The cross has a fine mesh like description of the art forms and objects in the Catholicos Khachatur and Catholicos Pilipos; miter engraving and is fastened to a metal handle on museum. covers showing Grigor the Illuminator in Samples of Armenian imprint art can also be found which there is an engraving of the crucifixion. The Vestments; and armlets, which have a complex in the internal binding of manuscripts showing an work is detailed with gold and precious gems. METAL ART needlework pattern depicting scenes of The early mastery of the art form.

A variety of metals such as iron, copper, bronze, Annunciation and Baptism. RUG WEAVING gold, and silver were used in Armenia for metal The imprinted altar curtains preserved in the The oldest woven rugs uncovered in Armenia were art. In addition to smelting, engraving, and Also included in the collection is a chasuble made collection at the museum are of the late period, found at and Karmir Blur (Urartian period). stamping, metal art included threading, meshing, in China and embroidered buckles with precious prepared in the 17th century in Tokat, Madras and Armenian rug weaving used wool and natural dyes, granulation and burnishing. and semiprecious stones; and ritual dragon Tbilisi. The curtains depict scenes of St. George such as alizarin (or madder) and Vordan Karmir or slippers. slaying the Dragon, the Founding of Echmiadzin, or Vordan Red, which was made from a special type Metal Art at the museum includes incense holders, multiple themes such as the Glory of Christ, the of beetle only found in Armenia. Vordan Red was chalices, cups, belts, Vargas's, crosses, staffs, IMPRINT ART Annunciation, the Crucifixion, the Ascension, Adam prized throughout Europe and the Middle East for it crowns, rings, and nimbuses, cymbals, Imprinting is one of the oldest forms of Armenian and Eve and the Sacrifice of Abraham. vivid hue and ability to last for centuries. chandeliers, candelabra, and lamps. applied art. Patterns were carved on oak or pear

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MINIATURES The oldest illuminated manuscript at Echmiadzin is contemporaries and historical figures in Partav; Seljuk and Mongol coins from the 12th- The miniature is one of the most beautiful forms of the N. 194 Bible, written in Adana (Kilikia) in 1293. manuscripts evolved from the 11th century, 13th centuries , including those minted with the Armenian Christian art. The first samples of this It contains the pictures and name sheets of the beginning with the Kars Bible. Christian cross, struck in 1180 during Hulagu's art from at the museum date back to the 5th four evangelists, a variation of the Kilikian School. reign; Armenian Kilikia coins, with almost all the century. The museum has a large number of A strong Kilikian influence appears in the PAINTINGS kings of Kilikia represented; miniature manuscripts preserved from the 9th to Manuscripts written in the 17th century, and the Other than those in the cathedral and Old the end of the 12th c. that show an evolution of name sheets from manuscript N. 16 (Sharaknots, Residence, the museum collection of paintings Copper coins from the Safavid, Ahajarian, and the form as well as various schools. dated 1654) with the peacocks and bird letters includes amazing seascapes by Hovhannes Afsharian dynasties in Iran (with Persian pictured in magnificent Kilikian blue. In Aivazovski (1817-1900), and representative work inscriptions struck in Yerevan); Silver and copper comparison with the other schools, Kilikian by a who's who of Armenian painting: Gevorg coins with Persian inscriptions struck in Tbilisi, miniature art is distinguished by a deft Bashindjaghian (1857-1925), Vartkes Sureniantz Georgian coins (19th c) and coins from the representation of human movement and the (1860-1921), S. Khachatrian, V. Makhokhian, H. Ottoman and Russian Empires, Western Europe uniqueness of colors where gold, blue, red, and Pushman, E. Shahineh, H. Alkhazian, Martiros and the Americas. green predominate. Sarian, H. Kojoyan, S. Arekelian, J. Orakian. p. Topalian, Carzou, A. Galentz, G. Khandjian, Hakop END ECHMIADZIN COMPLEX. The collection also includes miniatures influenced Hakopian, among others. by Gothic Art. These include two Bibles, Ns. 54 and  To continue: backtrack to Echmiadzin complex 462 (Constantinople, 1619), which combine parking lot and follow the narrow street south of Kilikian with late Gothic influence. COINS the parking lot as it winds right and then left Included in the collection are 2nd c. BCE Thrace past an old cemetery, then due south past a few coins, Roman houses. The next cross street is Issey les Republic dinars Moulineaux p. Turn right and the entrance is on from the 2nd to the left in about 30 m. 1st centuries BCE depicting GUYANEH (GAYANE) VANK - ¶²Ú²Üº Victoria, Mars, ì²Üø (¶³Û³Ý» ì³Ýù) SH Jupiter and the Roman Twins, Located 300 meters south of Echmiadzin Cathedral with Latin Complex on Issy les Moulineaux p. The vank and inscriptions; church are open seven days a week. Opening time Roman Imperial varies depending on whether an early service is coins depicting held, but generally the complex is open from 9 am portraits of to dusk. No admission charge. S. Guyaneh Vank Augustus was built over the saint's 4th c. burial crypt Octavius, , Dometrianus, Marius Trajanus, and between 630-641, and is one of the holiest shrines ; 2nd c. Roman coins; Late Roman in the Armenian Church. coins from the 4th- 5th centuries ; Herodotos;

Parthian coins with portraits of Arshakid rulers Mithridat, Orontes, Sanatruk, Vartan and

Vagharsh; Sassanid coins minted in the 2nd-3rd By the end of the 12th century, after the fall of the centuries , Late Sassanid coins bearing pictures of Bagratuni and Artsruni dynasties, new schools of Khosrov miniature art begin to take shape. The most Anushirvan and important of these are those at Kilikia and Khosrov Parvis, Vaspurakan. The Kilikia school lasted 200 years widely used in and developed at a number of centers near Armenia and Byzantium. The Vaspurakan style developed in neighboring Greater Armenia and lasted into the 18th century. countries; The 1374 Grigor Tatevatsi Bible includes Byzantine coins The illuminated manuscripts of Echmiadzin are miniatures added by Khachatur Kesaratsi. At the from the 12th essentially of the later period, beginning in the end of the manuscript is Tadevatsi's rhymed century in gold 14th century, and incorporating regional and colophon (page 329 and on) and a poem by and copper European influences. There are also manuscripts, Hovhannes Vorotnetsi (pages 327a and 328b). In (copper was such as the Kiutahia Bible (1641 ) on which conjunction with these texts the manuscript also reserved for Guyaneh is a shrine, a museum and a working Byzantine influence can be seen. displays frontal portraits of Hovhannes Vorotnetsi internal trade); Umayyad and Abbasid currencies parish church, with a mataghatun (sacrificial and Grigor Tatevatsi, represented as saints under minted in the 9th- 10th centuries in and Iran; house), and a lively group of parishioners. Go to the arches. The tradition of portraying Abbasid coins minted in the cities of Dvin and the cathedral for high drama, Hripsimeh for quiet

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a traveler’s reference guide ® reflection, and to Guyaneh to see how locals worship. Hripsimeh is clearly a shrine for pilgrims, and little GUYANEH MAP LEGEND of the monastery structure survives. Guyaneh was BACKGROUND a working monastery and center for learning, and 1. Main Gate In some legends about the early years of the surviving structures allow one to imagine what 2. Seminary 3. Churchyard gate Christianity in Armenia, Guyaneh is described as it must have been like in the golden days of 4. Rectory Hripsimeh's wet nurse, but official church history Armenia's monastic period, when monasteries like 5. Mataghatun marks her as the leader of the 39 maidens (a.k.a. Guyaneh were prominent as universities, libraries, 6. Orhanakar "Hripsimeh, Guyaneh and the 37 maidens") who scientific centers, and preservers of its glorious 7. Fountain sought refuge at Vagharshapat from Roman manuscript and miniature art. 8. Graveyard persecution, and the first to be martyred, by 9. Khachkars 10. Portico stoning. Shortly thereafter Hripsimeh and the GUYANEH COMPLEX 11. North Khachkars other maidens were tortured, beheaded and their As you enter the complex through the main gate 12. North Frescos bodies piled in a common burial plot. (1), you pass through outer gardens and a small 13. North Tombs Clandestinely reburied by Christians, Guyaneh's graveyard. Along the eastern wall are two long 14. Door Khachkars body was supposedly lost until Grigor' vision where buildings, the old seminary (2), now a Sunday 15. South Tombs Christ showed the location for building the 16. South Frescos school, and the rectory (4), built in 1652, along 17. South Khachkars martyria (shrines) for both Guyaneh and with the churchyard gate (3). 18. Altar Hripsimeh. 19. Throne COURTYARD 20. S. Hripsimeh, 18th c. Originally a small stone crypt, the current The inner courtyard has a large garden and the 21. Crypt Entrance Martyrion was built 387-428 under the patronage church plaza. To your far right as you face the a. Monument of the Catholicos Sahak I, (of the adoption of the b. Relics church is the mataghatun or sacrificial house (5). Mashtots alphabet fame). The church was built Matagh or sacrifice in Armenia continues much as Tomb Inscriptions: between during the reign of Catholicos Yez'r (630- it did in pre-Christian times, the faithful bringing 641 ), and represents the last major edifice by the sheep, doves or pigeons (as they can afford) to the 13 a. "Shamaketsi Zorkocheh...” church before the Arab invasion of Armenia (which orh'nakar or blessing stone (6), which is about b. "Monument (to) Ter Ter began in 640). 20 meters from the church portico. Yeghiazar Aintapetsi 1682-1691" c. "Haik Gosar” d. "Catholicos Mateos Ist K. Polsetsit Died 21st August 1865” e. "Milikents Hovsep…” f. "The Prince killed…Russian Ambassador …Georgia 1829 January 30th. In his grave 1829 April 26“ g. “1817 November laid into the grave by the Catholicos' blessing“ h. No inscription i. No inscription

15 a. No inscription b. No inscription c. "Ter Barsegh Pantsali - 1812 September 7”

d. "1801 March 9 - Ter Hovsep Pantsali”

As a side note, Yez'r (also known as Ezer) is The church does not officially condone sacrifice, e. "Tovma Yovsepian - 1842 First Prosecutor of Echmiadzin” notoriously known in Armenian history for having but it will bless the with salt outside the bowed temporarily in 632-633 to pressures by the church. Long discounted by urban Armenians, the f. "Ter Ghukas Catholicos December 8…(year missing)” Byzantine emperor Heraclius for a forced union of ritual is steeped in rural tradition, and is perhaps the Armenian church to the Byzantine Church. g. "Ter Ter Minas A. Akchetsi - Catholicos 1751- the strongest link between modern Armenia and its 1753” Having rejected the counsel of Chalcedon a pagan past, performed as an act of thanks or century earlier, this temporary rapprochement by h. "Ter Ter Abraham B. M'shetsi - Catholicos 1730- intercession. The meat is divided into seventh's, 1734” Yez'r, and his successor after the Arab advance, distributed among seven needy families. Sacrificial further divided the Armenian clergy and populace I. "Semeon Yerevantsi (from Yerevan) - sheep are slaughtered and dressed at the Catholicos...” at a time when unity was required. Though built mataghatun, which also has a dining area. at roughly the same time, Guyaneh and Hripsimeh are very different in their styles and purposes.

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A fountain (7) is located in front of the seminary is a renovation of the original 7th century stone building. Located on the north, east and southern Medieval dating inscriptions are based on the GRAVESTONES altar. sides of the church is a graveyard (8). Three old Armenian Calendar system, which began in 552 . Among the inscriptions found on the gravestones, khachkars (9a, 9b, 9c) stand just beyond the To translate into years, add 551 to the dates the gravestone on the north end of the portico Other paintings in the church are from the 19th- southeast corner of the church. found on early and middle medieval monuments. (13f), stands reads in part, "The Prince 20th centuries, except the large one hung above Later monuments (beginning in the 17th c. or so), killed…Russian Ambassador…Georgia in 1829 the entrance to the crypt. The painting of S. CHURCH EXTERIOR adopted our "standard" dating system. January 30th. In his grave 1829 April 26." Since Guyaneh (20) hung over the entrance to the crypt The front portico (10) was constructed in 1683 this date was at the time of the Russian-Persian is by Hovnatan Hovnatanian. and was covered with frescos (12, 16) in the Wars and the beginning of Armenia's Czarist Hovnatanian School (17th-18th cc). Fragments period, it seems this anonymous figure earned his The Catholicos Throne (19) is from the 16th and sections can still be seen, though the ceilings place of prominence at Guyaneh as a member of century, brought to Guyaneh when the mother of were stripped to their brick inner layers long ago. the resistance. pearl throne in Echmiadzin Cathedral was restored Further damage to frescos occurred in the Soviet in the 1980's. It is richly carved with biblical period, and those that remain were preserved CHURCH INTERIOR symbols and mounted like the other thrones with a during an extensive renovation in 1960-1962. The church is a triple nave basilica and is model of the church as seen in Grigor's vision. distinguished from earlier churches with its Unique to Armenia is having a Catholicos throne in Two khachkars (14) flank the entrance under integrated central dome. The 7th century was a a church other than the Mother See, a sign of signs entitled "Singing Walls" asking visitors not to period of architecture innovation as cruciform favor not lost on the members of this church. deface the remaining frescos with graffiti, since domed churches began to replace single, double "these walls already have their stories". and triple nave basilicas, and the great cylindrical Just under the dome is a wrought iron chandelier cathedral at Zvartnots allowed Armenian architects (under dome), designed in a ring of doves. The Northern and Southern ends of the portico to master large dome engineering. Hripsimeh Vank has a chandelier just like it. have been closed off with walls imbedded with Legend has it that the center point directly below khachkars (11, 17) from the 10th and early 11th the dome and chandelier is the location where a centuries As you look at the bottom of the shaft of light in the shape of a cross appeared to khachkars (especially the two large ones on the Having said all this, there are a number of Grigor in his vision, showing him the location of North end), you will see Armenian letters carved exceptions to this rule, and you may wrong as Guyaneh's relics. Another shaft of light is also around the sun disk. much as you are right, since numbering and dating believed to have appeared at the spot where in Armenia was as subject to the dominating Hripsimeh was buried, directly below its central cultural calendar as anything else. When under dome. Arab domination, the Islamic calendar system was imposed, when under Russian domination, the That center point is believed by church workers to Gregorian calendar was in vogue. There are have curative powers, and one lively guide told us monuments that incorporate more then one dating how the insane and people with seizures have system, including the Armenian Era. It can be stood under the chandelier and been cured. Even confusing. non believers have reported feeling a slight energy pulse by standing under the chandelier for a few The northern khachkar on the left (11b) does not moments. Truer than fiction? You decide. have the letters Âì, and is inscribed è Ò ¼ , literally "1000+80+6", or the year 1086, either AE (Armenian Era) or 1637 which is unlikely for this Guyaneh is a transitional building between early work. The one on the right (11a) is inscribed  æ medieval (early Christian) and middle or high ¾ or (t'vin) 907 AE (Armenian Era), or 1458 in the medieval (first golden era), with the roof line Common Era. imitating the cruciform style topped with a barrel dome of the later period, while the interior remains Khachkars on the south end (17) have been an earlier period basilica divided into three naves DATING OLD KHACHKARS defaced except for that on the lower right, which is by support columns. Four large columns and their The letters are actually numbers, using Mashtots' inscribed  è Æ À, literally "9-1000-20-8" in the arches support the dome. original counting system, where each letter of the old counting system, which signifies either "t'vin" alphabet represented a number between 1 and or the 9th month of the 1028th year. Either The most arresting image on entering the church is 9000. interpretation is possible. the 17th century marble canopy over the altar (18), which protected the Ijman Seghan at Dates on stone monuments are often marked by The portico also holds 18 burial vaults (13, 15) Echmiadzin Cathedral until brought to Guyaneh in the letters Âì or the like, often with a line over from the 17th-19th centuries including those for the 1980's. The decorative design and the figures them, indicating "t'vin" ("in the year") followed by several Catholicos. The inscriptions are mostly of God the Father, God the Son and God the Holy one to four letters, each of which stands for a written in Grapar, or old Armenian, which is Ghost are by the Hovnatanian family, and were number based on its place in the Mashtots something of a lost language, and is almost painted directly on the marble, as was the alphabet. impossible to decipher to the average Armenian. Madonna and Child on the main altar piece, which

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MARTYRIA more and more eloquent ways. Suspecting violent end to an intense flowering of culture and The entrance to the crypt (21) is to the right of The Church is normally the first stop by tourists Guyaneh of coaching escapes from his advances, independence. As such, the church is considered a the altar. The stones in the first room or inner visiting Echmiadzin from Yerevan. It--and T'rdat commanded his soldiers to silence the older crowning achievement of , chapel were in legend hand carried by T'rdat III Zvartnots Cathedral, 7 kilometers further east-- maiden. They did this quite effectively, cutting off its proportions a perfect representation of the from Mt. Ararat as penance for ordering Guyaneh's deserve to be the last, since they represent the her tongue before stoning her to death. Hripsimeh cosmos and sacred geometry for that time. The execution. Doubtful though that story is, they are last, and greatest triumphs of Armenia's sacred and the remaining maidens were kept in the palace bell tower was added in 1790. among the stones used to build the first Martyrion architecture in the 7th century, and were both for several months while T'rdat attempted to in the 4th century. pivotal in promoting Christianity during the long persuade Hripsimeh to marry him. Pagan Wars. Follow the steps to your left and you will enter the However, Hripsimeh became more and more crypt, situated directly below the altar. The large Hripsimeh Church is built over the burial crypt of eloquent in her refusals, finally declaring she could black monument (21a), carved from a single the martyr S. Hripsimeh, the maiden coveted by not wed one when she was already promised to block of marble and inscribed S. Guyaneh is often both the Roman Emperor Diocletian and the another. Furious, T'rdat demanded to know her mistaken for the site of her grave. To the left of Armenian King T'rdat III. Hripsimeh is a UNESCO suitor. "Christ," was the reply, and in a rage T'rdat the entrance is a niche in the wall which is directly World heritage Site. had Hripsimeh and the rest of her entourage below the altar, and the actual location of the beheaded, their bodies buried in a common burial saint's relics (21b). BACKGROUND site. Hripsimeh's martyrdom, as well as those of Our guide almost relished telling us the painting Guyaneh and 37 other Roman maidens Just after this, T'rdat became gravely ill, raving illustrating her martyrdom is not accurate. In fact, precipitated King T'rdat's madness and later like an animal. Medieval drawings and carvings it was much more gruesome: Guyaneh's tongue conversion to Christianity. As such, Hripsimeh is depict his insanity by placing the head of a wild was cut from the back of her throat before she was often sited as the determining factor in the boar on his head, and the more vivid legends stoned to death, so that her cries would not conversion of the nation. interpret this literally to mean he turned into a pig. disturb the king's sleep. His sister Khosrovadukht ("daughter of Khosrov"), herself a Christian, then had a dream where she COMPLEX  Go back to Komitas H’raparak and walk, drive, was told that the only way to cure the king and The fortress walls and towers (1), were originally taxi or bus (Zvartnots Bus # 1, 2, 3) the 2 save the nation was to release Grigor. She built at the same time as the church, rebuilt kilometers E on Mashtots p. to HRIPSIMEH convinced T'rdat to free Grigor, setting the stage numerous times, and are believed to have VANK (DD 40.16701 x 44.30954, elev. 875m) for the conversion. originally been more than 15 meters high. These standing are probably reconstructions from the 15- HRIPSIMEH VANK - ÐèÆöêÆغ ì²Üø 17th centuries. When first constructed, Hripsimeh was a fortress-vank. Persian and Roman invasions (ÐéÇ÷ëÇÙ» ì³Ýù) SH had already decimated the royal city of NOTE: Use HRIPSIMEH VANK plan for this visit. Echmiadzin-Vagharshapat, and complete Hripsimeh is located 2 kilometers east of Komitas conversion had not yet occurred. H'raparak on Mashtots p. . It is on the eastern edge of the city, just past the Echmiadzin bypass if Lying half way between Echmiadzin and Zvartnots approaching from Yerevan. Ease left as the (which was still a pagan temple at the time), bypass approaches to enter the city. The church Hripsimeh was literally a fortress for Christians in and complex are on the right. The vank is open 9 the wilderness. am to 6 pm seven days a week. One tradition says that Hripsimeh was the As you enter the vank from Mashtots p. , you will daughter of a Roman nobleman, and was to be pass the 18th century rectory (3), and a wedded to the Roman Emperor Diocletian. A khachkar (4), date unknown. Immediately to Christian, Hripsimeh escaped with Guyaneh and your left, under the plaza are the only public the other maidens to Armenia. Diocletian sent a toilets (5) in Echmiadzin. message to T'rdat ordering him to capture the maidens, offering Hripsimeh as a reward if T'rdat The original martyrion was built in the 4th century Up the stairs is a large plaza (6) surrounding the wanted her. over Hripsimeh's burial site and was reconstructed church, with Khachkar and carving fragments in the 5th century as a two story monument (a lining the eastern wall (7). A new aghbiur or If not, he asked T'rdat to return Hripsimeh to 5th-6th centuries picture of the monument can be memorial fountain (8) is immediately behind the Rome so he could have her. Hripsimeh is found carved on the southeast stele at Odzun Vank main apse of the church. At the entrance to the described in legend as the most beautiful maiden in Northern Armenia). church are two graves (4, 5) for Armenian in the empire, and T'rdat fell madly in love with Catholicos. The one on the left (9) reads "Ter Ter her at their first meeting. The present church was built in 618 under the Karapet Ulnetsi (from Ulneh) Catholicos 1726- patronage of the Catholicos Komitas I. This was 1729" and the other (10) reads "Ter Ter One of the more interesting legends says that with during the twilight of Armenia's first golden age, Astvatsatar A. Hamadantsi (from Hamada) 1715- 20 years before the first Arab invasions brought a 1725". each advance T'rdat was rebuked by Hripsimeh in

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each side, 3 roof lines on each end, the 2 to 3 ratio At other early churches central pillars support the in measurements--everything outside the building dome, but Hripsimeh's dome covers the entire HRIPSIMEH MAP LEGEND reinforces the sacred numbers 2 (duality of God on central hall, and the support fluting gives the earth and in heaven) and 3 (The Holy Trinity); illusion of lightness that defies the dome's massive 1. Old Wall and Towers while all inside reinforces the number 4 (The weight. The engineering was such that the church 2. Main Gate totality, seasons, all time). It is a purest form of survived intact several severe earthquakes. 3. Rectory worship in architecture. Even the 8 niches (not at 4. Khachkar 5. Toilets all common in Armenian church architecture) During renovations in 1959-1962 a number of 6. Plaza represent the 8th day, in biblical terms the day of segments from the previous structures were 7. Fragments resurrection, the beginning of life after God rested. discovered in the foundation of the church, and 8. Memorial Fountain can be seen underneath glass floor plates. 9. Grave: T. T. Karapet Ulnetsi, Catholicos 1726-1729 To your left as you enter the church is a large 12th 10. Grave: T. T. Astvatatsari Hamadantsi 1715-1725 century khachkar (A), an early example of the 11. Parking Lot open cross form (where the stone is completely cut through). Just beyond it in front of the northern A. Khachkar, 12th c. apse is a gravestone (B) engraved "1104 year 25 B. Grave March died Haghbaktsi (from Haghbak) Ter Pilip C. Altar front fresco Pos Sakia Catholicos". This is a rare example of D. Altar E. S. Hripsimeh, 17th c. someone other than a martyr being interred within F. Entrance to Crypt a church. G. S. Hripsimeh Relic H. Sarcophagus I. Guyaneh Stone

INTERIOR Originally the inner walls were covered with frescos depicting the crucifixion, annunciation, the Apostles and S. Grigor and Hripsimeh, but they were lost long ago. Even without the original crypt and sanctuary were once covered with rich frescos, the masonry and angular niche patterns EXTERIOR The church is considered one of the masterpieces tapestries and gold imagery with precious stones, show a mastery of craftsmanship. of early medieval Armenian architecture, a the architecture is covered with a kind of tapestry, The paintings (C) covering the altar platform wall perfected form of that begun at Echmiadzin. and soars in its grand design--from the inside. are a reconstruction of original fresco work, Following the plan of Echmiadzin (cruciform with depicting the Virgin and Child flanked by The semi-circular apses at the cardinal points, chapels The large niche' on the southern flank were not Apostles and Ss. Stepanos and Pilipos. on the diagonal points), the architects at meant for statuary--Armenia originally prescribed Hripsimeh created a harmonious and elegant to the iconoclasts and refused 3 dimensional The altar (D) is newly carved from light brown space, one of the earliest uses of placing the dome representations. By the time icons became more stone, showing pomegranates (symbolizing love) directly over the supporting walls. widely accepted, the Arabian and Persian and grapes (the blood of Christ) flanked by eagles dominations were so deeply felt (human (supreme power). There are few of the carvings found on the representations were forbidden) that the greatest Echmiadzin Cathedral, or even the geometric and expressions of faith artistically are the geometric The painting Astvatsatsin over the altar is 20th symbolic carvings that covered Zvartnots. Even designs on Khachkars and the sides of later century. Over the southern apse and door is the Guyaneh appears more intricate in its design, churches. large 17th century painting of S. Hripsimeh (E) though built in the same period. by Hovnatan Hovnatanian. Hripsimeh's geometry is sacred geometry in the way the lines of the building converge to points Hripsimeh seems austere and as a martyr shrine, MARTYRIA and circular patterns in a stunning display of that serves its purpose well. But unlike Guyaneh As you face the altar, the entrance to the Crypt lightness for such an obviously heavy structure. or even the Cathedral, the church saves it most (F) is to the left. The first room has fragments of Numerology abounds: 2 niches and 3 openings on impressive features for the inside. Just as the Khachkars and inscription stones, as well as an old

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a traveler’s reference guide ® wood and bronze door. To enter the crypt, go into OLD CITY CEMETERY - ÐÆÜ ²ðºÎºÈÚ²Ü performed and the after-funeral dinner was chapel which time could not be absolutely fixed but the unlit passageway to the right and down the ¶ºðº¼Ø²Üàò (ÐÇÝ ²ñ»í»ÉÛ³Ý ¶»ñ»½Ù³Ýáó) served. which the church accepted as a 4th c Christian steps. S edifice. Perhaps, but just as likely it may have The old cemetery north of Hripsimeh is still used This dinner is still a part of Armenian tradition, been a Pagan temple that was converted into a by locals lucky enough to have spaces reserved called "hoke hangisti hats (dinner to quiet his church to celebrate the martyr buried there (which (some from more than 100 years ago. The mix of soul)" by modern Armenians. Locals say it dates herself might have been a relic of the pre-Christian modern and old through emerald green pathways back to the middle ages, but its rapidly time, and anathema to suggest in church circles (spring) or burnt umber weeds (summer) is a bit deteriorating mud brick exterior speaks to a later though no definitive testing of the remains has melancholy, sometimes ironic, but always period, perhaps the 18th-19th cc. It probably been done to confirm its period). The southwest surprising. rests over earlier structures of its kind, perhaps chapel was built on a three-stepped platform with even from the Pagan Era. a small semi-circular apse, hallmarks of pre- Christian shrines, though the sign outside the  To continue the tour, take Nalbandian (the church suggests it might have been a portico for a street facing the cemetery) one block west to south entrance to the original church. Shoghakat Church (DD 40.16810 x 44.30485, elev. 873m) For the record, she had nothing to do with the 39 Maidens, but her church is perhaps the most ² SHOGHAKAT CHURCH - ÞàԲβî pleasant of all those in Echmiadzin, surrounded by a well maintained garden and peacefully set off the ºÎºÔºòÆ (ÞáÕ³Ï³ï ºÏ»Õ»óÇ) SH is located 150 meters west of Hripsimeh at the corner of main roads. It's worth a visit just to get away Nalbandian and Zoyayi p. . The church is open from the heady history at the other sites and rest The crypt's design, like the martyrion at Guyaneh, from 9 am to dusk seven days a week. a spell. has its roots in the pre-Christian period, and resembles Urartian sanctuary design, as well as The caretakers are very friendly and enjoy the inner sanctuary at Garni. In fact, the size and gossiping with visitors and trading spiritual proportions are proportionately identical to the legends. The church is also set opposite several of sanctuaries of Sushi at Erebuni and Mythra at the best home stay venues in Echmiadzin. Garni. I admit I love cemeteries, not in any morbid sense Armenian crypts are probably inherited from these but as markers or bygone eras. Here, the traditions via the Roman and Syrian catacomb monuments do not disappoint, from some of the tradition. On the outskirts of the Roman Empire, grandest arched domes to the humblest solitary Christians in adopted the Semitic tradition of stones, they evoke a number of eras of regarding the individual construction Vagharshapat’s history. of tombs, cut into rock, or partially or completely excavated below ground level.

The entrance usually featured a façade preceding an antechamber. The design of Hripsimeh and

Guyaneh Martyria closely follow this example. BACKGROUND The inner chamber of the Martyrion holds the Built over a pre-Christian shrine in the early remains of Hripsimeh (G) behind the wall to your Christian era, Shoghakat's original structure right as you enter. A 1986 painting of the saint is follows the same outline and size as its pagan on the large marble sarcophagus (H) in the forebear. The current building was reconstructed center of the chamber. Next to it in a small wall in 1699, largely replacing the original 4th-5th-7th COMPLEX niche (I) is a glass window protecting a black cc. church. Shoghakat is often confused as the The courtyard is probably the prettiest in stone, which is believed to have been one used to third martyrion in Grigor's vision. In fact, so many Echmiadzin, with flower lined walkways, khachkars kill her with. locals believe that the third martyr was Shoghakat and khachkar fragments scattered about the yard. it has become a part of local history, despite the There is an English language information sign church's attempts to preach otherwise. Meaning outside the church with a history that follows the  To continue the tour, retrace your steps to "A drop of sunbeam" or "Effusion of Light" in church line, claiming the site was the third in Mashtots pta, and go west, taking the first right Deep inside the warren of graves, on a low hill, is Armenian, Shoghakat was constructed in honor of Grigor’s vision and was first erected for a third (Hoktemberian/Martirosovi) which skirts a deteriorating mud-brick hall, its inner walls lined a different saint named Shoghakat, who is buried (unnamed) martyr. Hripsimeh walls to the large cemetery on the with bricks and stone. The structure is massive for in the southeast chapel. right. its type and was used as funeral chapel and CHURCH hokehatsi tun (literally "soul food house," or Excavations to the southwest uncovered a small The church is a central dome type with the dome funeral dining hall), where funerals were single nave chapel adjacent to the southwest placed slightly west of center (a practice begun as

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a traveler’s reference guide ® early as the 5th c, and common in the 6th-7th cc). that had somehow survived 400 years of Located in the municipal office, working in fits and on local gossip, or simply watching the world go by As a result, some think a form of the current deprivation. starts is the wonderful Folk History Museum, which while taking incessant cell phone calls. church may have been built in that period. The everyone should catch before it is emptied to make interior has a horseshoe-shaped apse and two As with cruciform and central dome hall churches way for one of the mayor’s business projects. THEATRE, PERFORMANCE small chapels flanking the altar. The SE chapel of the 9th-13th cc, Shoghakat's octagonal drum The Echmiadz'ni M'shakuiti Culturai Palat (24 on contains the remains of Shoghakat. The church rests on a central square, with pendentives The museum was established in 1964. In 1984 it city map) or Echmiadzin Culture Palace, is located hall is small, following the dictates of the times, providing the transition to the base of the drum. was relocated to its present space, on Mashtots on the north side of Mashtots Poghots, midway which were harsh for Armenians, who had become pta. The full collection has around 12,000 between H’raparak and Hripsimeh Vank. The a minority in much of their own country. The Bell Tower is a later addition, and for once, it artifacts, of which 500 are on display, including building is a large classical building made of tufa does not detract from the original building's late stone-age items. Mostly the artifacts cover stone. design, carefully integrated into the original church 5000 BCE to the 20th century. Of note are the plan. It has some of the best wall carvings, with carvings on the wooden doors to the museum. The center includes the Aznavor Theatre, which geometric signs and cross forms hailing to performs frequently; traditional dance and music Armenia's most ancient iconography. The main Exhibits include a replica of a 4th m BCE round groups (worth a visit just to watch rehearsals), arch has multiple layers, each with its own house discovered during regional excavations, and the Children's Center (tel. 53054, 47770), geometric pattern. The all cornices and window demonstrating one of the earlier known bricks and managed by a nonprofit NGO dedicated to frames echo the same details. mortar technique and a tonratun (tonir house; the providing clothing, food and traditional classes to tonir is a large ceramic vase buried into the ground Echmiadzin's children. The frontal piece over the small entrance is and used for baking and meats). painted with red dye and inscribed in grapar So far they are assisting 250 children in the city, (grabar, old Armenian). I could not find anyone As with all of Armenia’s regional museums, free of charge. They give occasional traditional who could translate (including the church priest), curatorship and upkeep is undertaken entirely by music and dance performances, and their craft so its beautiful script remains a mystery. Perhaps dedicated staff, who receive no (real) income from center has an amazing collection of fabric art, you will have better luck. the state or city to maintain the priceless macramé and woodcarvings made by the children, exhibitions. If they are open (ask around to see if on sale to support their work. If a performance The economy was mostly in tatters, once abundant someone can locate the director Hasmik Hakobyan from any group is on, a sign will be placed on the croplands lay fallow or pasturage for Turkish and to let you in) do donate as much as you can to sidewalk outside the palace. Yezidi tribes. Persia and Turkey were in a support their efforts. protracted war that had only recently (1639) For culture events, check with the Khoren Ter abated, though hostilities continued and the Harutian Sculpture Museum; they will know if an Safavid of Iran which controlled Armenia event is about to occur. were in their last throes of power. Computer games are located next to the Dentist Polyclinic on Atarbekian Poghots.

If all else fails, you can always visit the Bingo Hall, opposite the Culture Palace on Mashtots Poghots.

Inside the church is decorated in a style reminiscent of the Middle Ages, with neighborhood church embellishments and icons, carpets and candelabra. This is a working church, one favored of local residents. For some insight into the The museum is slated to be moved to an differences in the church’s meaning in people’s undisclosed location (the mayor’s office says it will lives, visit on a Sunday, after visiting the cathedral take over the civil registration office, which was at Echmiadzin. news to the folks at civil registration); the prime It would not be until the late 18th c that a new real estate (valued at more than $100,000) was flowering of Armenian culture would begin, as  End Shoghakat and Echmiadzin Churches. sold at a widely-regarded bogus auction for $7000 Russian Imperial forces began their march to Iran Continue back to center for Other Sites by the mayor in 2005. Look for a mafia joint to and Turkey. In such times, Shoghakat should rise on the premises. probably be considered a miracle, the finely hewn OTHER SITES SH walls of tufa and the sometimes exquisite carvings ENTERTAINMENT LIBRARIES on it walls demonstrating a mastery of technique FOLK HISTORY MUSEUM - ÄáÕáíñ¹Ç Outdoor cafes make up the bulk of evening The Main Library (26) is located on the Western ä³ïÙáõÃÛ³Ý î³Ý·³ñ³Ý entertainment, locals sipping drinks, catching up side of Komitas H’raparak at the corner of

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a traveler’s reference guide ®

Atarbekian Poghots. The library is open Monday to and trainers are available to take you through your Excavation The Bus to Taronik village by the Saturday from 9 am to 1 pm and 2 to 5 pm. The paces. Admission is 2000 AMD per month. Metsamor Excavation (100 AMD, 30 minutes) Minivan (Marshrutni Taxi) staff is extremely helpful, pulling heaps of books departs from opposite the Yerevan, Zvartnots and Yerevan Private vans (also called "RAF") to and and old maps from their archives. All are in Next to the pool is a large soccer field, open to any Masis Bus Station (50 meters west in front of the from Yerevan travel the same route as the bus. In Armenian or Russian, but the drawings, plans and who wants to play. Apoteka Shop) hourly between 10.30 am and 4.30 Echmiadzin the vans are located in front of maps are easily understood. Library pass costs 50 pm. Ashtarak Buses depart from the Bus Stop Zbosaigee near the bus station. In Yerevan they AMD a year, but donations are appreciated (and directly in front of the Shuka on Tumanian p. at depart from in front of the Shuka on Mashtots Ave. should be given). PRACTICALITIESB aH 8.30 am and 5.30 pm daily (200 AMD, one hour). Vans leave when there are enough passengers to Armavir-Yerevan Express The Armavir- justify a trip, and cost 250 AMD from 7am to 7pm, A treat is the Children's library (63), located one Area Code: 231 Echmiadzin-Yerevan bus leaves every 30 minutes 300 AMD thereafter. The trip lasts between 30-45 block south of Mashtots Poghots on Kostanian Long Distance: 0231 + local number between 7 am and 5 pm at either end (400 AMD, minutes. Poghots (across from the kiosks), open from 9 am From abroad: +(374) 231 + local number 30 minutes either way). To catch the bus in to 1 pm and 2 to 5 pm Monday to Saturday. The Mobile Phones: 091 Armentel, 093/094 Viva Cell Echmiadzin, go to the intersection of Tumanian Taronik, Metsamor Excavation One van a day library is small, but the children's books are International callers: Armentel +(374) 91 + and the Armavir-Echmiadzin-Yerevan Highway on leaves for Taronik (150 AMD, 30 minutes) at 8.30 excellent for learning Armenian from. The number, Viva Cell +(374) 93 or 94+ local number the northwest end of town, and flag the bus from am, returning to Echmiadzin around 9.30 am. collection of Armenian legends and history books Unless otherwise noted, local numbers require the under the overpass. Obviously not a convenient arrangement for seeing are masterworks of design. (0231) prefix if calling long distance, or +(374) the Metsamor excavation, you can arrange with 231 prefix if calling from abroad. Villages, Metsamor, Armavir Buses to the drive to return at a later time and collect you SWIMMING, SPORTS northwestern regional villages depart from the bus for about 3300 AMD. A nice surprise, the public swimming pool is 200 stop at the corner of Tumanian and Baghramian p. INB AND OUT aH meters west of Guyaneh Vank on Issey les Buses to Metsamor-Armavir (250 AMD, 30 By Taxi, Car Moulineaux Poghots (take the steps to the right as By Air minutes) leave daily at 11 am, 12.30 and 2.10 pm. A taxi from the airport is around 2500 AMD, but you reach the point where the street curves to the Zvartnots International Airport is ten kilometers Buses to the village of Arshaluis (100 AMD, 90 expect to haggle. Taxis to and from Yerevan left). Free admission. The original pool is east of Echmiadzin. Taxis will run to Echmiadzin minutes) leave at 10.45 am and at 12.30, 2, 3.30 cost around 2000 AMD. To other cities, the rates gargantuan, covering more than a hectare of for around 2500 AMD, even though they always and 5.30 pm, passing through the villages of are negotiable, generally 100 AMD per km, and surface. Unable to maintain a pool of that size, start the bidding at 5000 AMD (or the more Tsaghkunk, Tsiatsin, Hovtamech, Samaghaz and quoted for up to 4 passengers. Rates given at the the city wisely focuses on the diving well, and a popular "for you, $20"). Haitagh. Buses to Aghavnatun (100 AMD, 2 time of writing were: Armavir 2000 AMD; Giumri constant flow of water keeps the pool clean and hours) leave at 8.30 and 11 am, 1 and 3 pm, 10,000 AMD; Ashtarak 2500 AMD; Masis 2500 inviting. By Bus passing through Doghs, Franganots, Aghlighala AMD. Buses regularly connect Echmiadzin with Yerevan, and Aragats villages. Ashtarak, Masis, Markara and Armavir. Prices To rent a car with driver, ask at the taxi stands quoted are for the entire trip, so if you are getting Markara The bus to Markara at the Turkish border located at the Yerevan and Markara Bus Stations off someplace between, ask the price beforehand. leaves from Yerevan (250 AMD, one hour) at the and by the Shuka. All prices are negotiated, and Despite announced hours, village buses will wait intersection of Sarian and Mashtots p. and makes in Armenia's time-honored tradition of trading, the until enough passengers justify a trip. a one minute stop in Echmiadzin at the corner of first price quoted by the driver is just that--the H’raparak and Araratian before continuing to first price. Expect the final price to be about 25% Yerevan, Zvartnots, Masis Yerevan buses arrive Markara (250 AMD, 30 minutes). The first bus lower. and depart from the Bus Station on Atarbekian p. leaves from the bus garage in Yerevan at 7.00 am 100 meters west of Komitas H’raparak. The and stops in Echmiadzin about 8.00 am. Others Prices generally go down the more days you use a Yerevan bus is #111, which leaves every 15 leave from Sarian p. in Yerevan at 8.10 am and at car or taxi, and they go up the later in the day. At minutes between 7 am and 6 pm (220 AMD, one 12.45 and 5.00 pm arriving in Echmiadzin about the time of writing, prices for a car and driver (up hour), stops at the villages of Zvartnots (200 30 minutes later. Get there early. to 4 passengers) were from around $30 for one meters east of the church, 100 meters from day to $120 for a week's drive anywhere in Zvartnots Motel), Petkhunk, Musalehr, Parakar, Armenia. Prices for cars and drivers do not include Airport Road and Argavand, then in Yerevan at the petrol or gas, which must be figured into your Shengavit Bridge, Yerevan Bus Station and the calculations. Modern Art Museum terminus. A caution to women travelers: the pool is used AROUND aH exclusively by Armenian boys and young men, who Buses from Yerevan begin on Sarian p. next to strip down to their underpants while swimming. the Modern Art Museum. On foot is the best way to take in the city’s No one will stop you from swimming, but expect a atmosphere, most worth seeing is within a 15-20 lot of awkward moments and stares. To go to Zvartnots (village, motel or church) take minute stroll. The main streets are Mesrop bus #1, 2 and 3 which leave every 10 minutes Mashtots ("Mashtots") p., Atarbekian p. and Just east of the steps to the pool is a weight room, between 8 am and 5 pm (100 AMD, 15 minutes). Araratian p. (See Navigating the City, p. 20) open Mondays to Saturday from 10 am to 5 pm. To go to Masis and the lower Ararat Valley, Echmiadzin breeds weightlifting champions and take the Masis Bus from the same point (150 AMD, Bus, Van Local bus routes were discontinued boxers, so the workouts are taken quite seriously, 2 hours), which leaves at 8,9,10 and 11 am and at years ago, but unless you are lugging a lot of gear, 12, 1, 2 and 3 pm daily. Taronik and Metsamor you won't find walking from point to point difficult

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in Echmiadzin. However, Echmiadzin-Yerevan Bus COMMUNICATIONB a #111 departs every 15 minutes between 7am and 6pm from the bus station on Atarbekian p. and Fire – 101 stops at the Markara Bus Stop (Komitas Police – 102 H’raparak), WW II Monument, Zoyayi p. Ambulance service – 103 (Shoghakat Vank) and Hripsimeh Vank en route. Gas emergency service – 104 Trunk Line – 107 The Zvartnots Bus (#1, 2 & 3) leave from the Telephone directory information – 109 same point every 10 minutes between 7am and 6 Paging service – 189 pm, travels the same route. Use either bus to get to Zvartnots Church or Zvartnots Motel. Phone, telegraphs The Central Post Office is on Komitas Square. Two

Taxi, Car Taxis are 100 AMD per km, and some others are at 5 Charentsi p. Vartan Mamikonian. charge an up front price of 500-600 AMD, which See HayPost site for list (http://www.haypost.am/) covers up to 5 km. If you want to use one for The post office has trunk line phone service, sells longer trips or wait while you visit a site, they will phone cards and can deliver telegraphs. ask for more. Most are willing to negotiate rates for long trips or daily use. In negotiating, take Additional phone services are around town. They into account how long you will use the taxi and the advertise in front of their shops, sometimes with distance involved. A quoted rate is for the car and internet. driver, which can sea up to 4 passengers. Rates given at the time of writing varied between $20 for Armentel is at 4 Mashtots pta, (tel. 42662) a half day in Echmiadzin only to $30-40 for a full day trip taking in the city, Zvartnots Vank and the InternetB excavations at Mokhrablur, Adablur and Metsamor. Arminco, the largest internet provider in the country, has a rep. office at SIUNY, 110 Mashtots

BTaxi Services pta, (tel. 44533, 010-51-22-34, 010-59-35-80), Call taxis in Echmiadzin are reliable and affordable. e-mail: [email protected] , ask for Levon Ghazaryan or 100 AMD/km. One we used is based about 80 m E Hunan Ghazaryan, of Zvartnots and was only 100 AMD per km (tel. 73939, 093-72-50-54). Echmiadzin call taxis Internet cafes provide dial up, computer usage and numbers are 41011, 43131, 49981. slow SMS/VOIP services. Venues and prices fluctuate; ask at your overnight for the latest place. TOURB GUIDES aH

Harutiun, the director of the Khoren Ter Harutian

Sculpture Museum (tel 52038) has been closely SeeB MAP next page. acquainted with both the Cultural and Historic Scene for over 20 years. The result is a very personal guided tour of the city and historic sites. Harutiun can also arrange admission into the Catholicos residence and treasury museum with advance notice. He knows guides who speak English, French and German. A full day guided tour is $25 or $10 per person for groups of 3 or more.

At the Echmiadzin Complex you can sometimes find a priest or deacon who will provide an informal tour. We were lucky enough to find a priest from Detroit, who not only showed us around the entire complex, but invited us to lunch at the seminary. The museum in the cathedral always provides English speaking guides. Staff are forbidden from taking direct donations, boxes are placed in the cathedral and museum.

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z MONUMENTS - SITES 15 WWII Monument 33 Komitas Monument 37 Komitas H'raparak

MONASTERY, CHURCH, CEMETERY 4 Old East Cemetery 8 Shoghakat Vank 11 Hripsimeh Vank 12 Zvartnots Church 14 Astvatsatsin Church 41 Echmiadzin Complex 47 Guyaneh Vank

THEATRES, MUSIC 16 Culture Palace

▼ SHOPS, SHUKA, SOUVENIRS 23 Shuka 25 Tonavajar/Yarmarka 17 Three Stars Store

STADIUM, SPORTS 44 Swimming Pool

INTERNET, PHONE, POST 38 Telephone, Telegraph 38 Armentel

GOV. OFFICES, LIBRARY, POLICE 29 City Hall 43 Police

BECHMIADZIN CITY WIDE KEY 20 Vagharshapat Restaurant 21 Motel Zvartnots BANK, ATM 28 Armenian Kitchen OVERNIGHT 26 Central Bank 39 Jasharan 5 Guest House Nalbandian Arachin Nerpanks 5a 20 Analik Bank, ATM 46 Motel Van 6 Guest House Nalbandian 45 48 Odjakh APOTEKAS 7 Guest House Nalbandian 73 13 Pharmacy “Karma” 9 Guest House Nalbandian 68 10 Guest House Nalbandian 70 BUSES -MARSHRUTNI TAXIS 18 Guest House Mashtots 48 1 Buses to Armavir ♦ MEDICAL/HOSPITAL/CLINIC - DENTAL 22 Buses to NW Villages, Metsamor, Armavir 19 Guest House Dzerzhinsky 82b 2 Polyclinic 24 Buses to Ashtarak 21 Motel Zvartnots 3 Hospital 34 Buses to Markara 31 Guest House Atarbekian 98 30 Dental Polyclinic 40 Guest House Karjikian Arachin Nerpansk 4 35 Buses to Yerevan, Zvartnots, Masis

45 Guest House Sovetakan Banaki 38 PARKS 46 Motel Van z MUSEUMS, ART GALLERY, SCHOOL 36 Zbosaigee 27 Abeghian Museum FOOD & DRINK 32 Hovhannessian Museum 17 Cafe Ring 42 Ter Harutian Sculpture Museum

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Travel Guide®

73 Khoren Ter Harutian Sculpture 51 Telephone, Telegraph 30 Hovhannessian Museum 53 Post Office

z MONUMENTS - SITES 27 Church Models GOV. OFFICES, LIBRARY, POLICE 28 Church Models 26 Library 29 Komitas Statue 33 City Hall 38 WWII Memorial 74 Police 40 Shahumian Statue 80 Children’s Center 44 Mikoyan Statue 45 Fountain BANK, ATM 46 Church Models 17 Bank (change) 49 Church Models 20 Central Bank 55 Exchange 65 Exchange MONASTERY, CHURCH, CEMETERY 6 Astvatsatsin Church APOTEKAS 70 Echmiadzin 48 Pharmacy 72 Gevorkian Seminary 58 Pharmacy 75 Observatory 81 Guyaneh Vank MEDICAL/HOSPITAL/CLINIC - DENTAL 78 Graveyard ♦ 13 State Dental Polyclinic 35 24 hour Dentist 62 Dentist THEATRES, MUSIC 7 Cinema House Bar PARKS 14 Computer Games 42 Zbosaigee

▼ SHOPS, SHUKA, SOUVENIRS „ SERVICES, PHOTO 2 Shuka & Yarmaka 11 Kodak 8 Yarmaka 16 Kodak 9 Kiosks 19 Barbers 10 Bookshop 34 Air Tickets 18 Mterk Store 36 Hair Dressers 22 Universal Store (change) 39 Kodak 37 Detski Mir 50 Air Tickets 52 Mterk Store 54 Air Tickets BECHMIADZIN CENTER Key 57 Toiletries 56 Photo Shop OUTDOOR CAFÉ 61 Xerox 59 Mterk Store OVERNIGHT 63 Hayastan Mterk Store 82 Laundry BUSES -MARSHRUTNI TAXIS 4 Hotel Vagharshapat 64 Mterk Store 1 Buses to NW villages, Metsamor, Armavir 5 Guest House Nalbandian Poghots 66 Music, CD Store 3 Buses to Ashtarak 15 Guest House Atarbekian 98 67 Brandy 12 Buses to Yerevan, Zvartnots, Masis 79 Guest House 38 Homestay 68 Brandy 41 Private Vans to Yerevan 71 Book Shop 47 Bus Stop for Markara FOOD & DRINK

21 Armenian Kitchen 23 Echmiadzin Cafe Bistro z MUSEUMS, ART GALLERY, SCHOOL 30 Cafe Bistro 24 Mher Abeghian Painting STADIUM, SPORTS 31 Armenian Kitchen 25 Hovhannes Hovhannessian Home 76 Swimming Pool 32 Cafe Bistro 70 Echmiadzin Cathedral 77 Football Field 43 Zbosaigee Cafe Bistro Old Residence 60 Grill New Residence 69 Bistro “Doka” Treasury INTERNET, PHONE, POST Armavir Marz: page 45 of 94 - © 2008 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide®

BANKS, SHOPPING, ETC. The Kodak Shop (16) at the corner of Atarbekian which cost extra. Meals are breakfast $3-4, lunch and Baghramian Poghots can do same day $5-6 and dinner $6-8.

BATM, Bank, Exchange development. Open Monday to Saturday from 9 Money wires and credit card advances can be done am to 6 pm. ZVARTNOTS MOTEL/RESTAURANT, Echmiadzin at banks; money exchange at banks and exchange Hwy 200 meters W of Zvartnots, 3 km E of points throughout the town. Laundry and Dry Cleaner Echmiadzin, tel. 52024, 282423, 091-402631, Fax: ATMs are at most banks in town: The laundry and dry cleaner (82), (tel. 43812, 237-46619, is located 3 kilometers east of 43583) is on Issey les Moulineaux, one block west Hripsimeh (200 meters west of the entrance to ACBA-CREDIT AGRICOL Bank, 30 Mashtots pta, of Araratian, open Monday to Saturday from 9 am Zvartnots Vank) on the north side of Echmiadzin- tel. 53754. to 3 pm. The building is not marked, but has Yerevan Highway. The air-conditioned cottages ANALIK Bank, 48 Mashtots pta, tel. 49693 metal grills over the windows and door. Laundry is have separate living/dining rooms, baths, ARDSHININVESTBANK, 1 Nar- Dos p, tel. 52032 500 AMD per kilo, dry cleaning varies from 500 bedrooms and porch, with ample space for folks to ARMECONOMBANK, 8/a Mashtots pta, tel. 57078 AMD per pair of pants to 1500 AMD for suit coats. move around. Satellite TV, stereo system, maid 54713. They will pick up and deliver for an additional 1000 service and Jacuzzi tubs in the quads round out AMD. this well-maintained complex. Double/Quad UNIBANK, 8 Atarbekian p, tel. 41210. cottages from 15,000-50,000 AMD. Meals around

PharmacyB 3000-5000 AMD.

Baghramian Poghots is called Deghatun or Shopping Apoteka p. for the number of pharmacies located OVERNIGHTB a B&BB The Book Store (71) of the Mother See of Holy there. Except for narcotic medication, most NOTE: Overnight spots change rapidly in Armenia, This is a very short listing of the possible homes to Echmiadzin, located just inside the front Gate to medicine can be bought without a prescription. A and Echmiadzin is no different. Expect prices to stay in--if any are full or you find yourself in a the Complex, has a good selection of reasonably 24 hour deghatun is Karma (4 on city map), (tel. rise, guest house owners to have emigrated, other different part of town--just start asking. By the priced books, booklets, historic maps and 52532 or 37888 after 11 pm) at 47, Baghramian. spots to come up, and hotels and motels to change time we left Echmiadzin the local grapevine had pamphlets in Armenian and Russian, with a few in hands (or close) overnight. already been humming, and 5000-7000 AMD for English. Hospital,B Polyclinic, Optician B&B was the going rate.

For a medical emergency, dial 103. Of the two hotels in the city, City Hotel is now Three Stars, 40, Mashtots P., is a new super reserved exclusively for Church officials and their Advance Bookings: Always call ahead before home market. If you can, go to Yerevan for medical aid. guests, and the other, Hotel Vagharshapat, is in stays, even if you don't speak the lingo. By just

terrible condition, with one wing housing refugees showing up you may be wasting a lot of walking Souvenirs include decently priced gold and silver Echmiadzin Hospital (3 on city map), (tel. 53310, from Artsakh, and the other perhaps the cheapest time. Check with Harutiun (tel. 52038) at the necklaces and bracelets, ceramics, hand-carved 56027) is located behind the Maternity Hospital on place in town—if you don't mind sleeping without Khoren Ter Harutian Sculpture Museum to arrange wooden khachkars and hand-painted replicas of Spendarian Poghots, 50 meters east of plumbing, windows or doors. home stays w/dinner and breakfast for 3500-6000. medieval manuscript miniatures. Open seven days Baghramian Poghots. Look for the Russian Also check with Khachik at Echmiadzin Shop (tel. a week from 9 am to 5 pm. sign next to the main entrance. Open 24 ÄèíÖäÄ Hotel/MotelB 52084 at the shop, 56459 at home) for the same.

hours. GOLDEN CITY HOTEL COMPLEX, Tsaghkunk Village Another bookshop (10) is located across the bus (Echmiadzin Hwy), tel. 0231-56688, cell: 094- Near Guyaneh Vank station on Atarbekian Poghots, at the corner with The Main Polyclinic ( 2 on city map), (tel. 52568) is 556688, email: [email protected], MRS. AGHUMIAN (tel. 56583), Sovetakan Banaki Baghramian Poghots. Armenian and Russian located at the corner of Baghramian and proprietor: Yervand Danielian, is just W of 38, lives in one of the red-tiled cottages opposite language books only and some office supplies. Spendarian Poghots, and is open Monday to Echmiadzin on the (M5). The hotel-restaurant Guyaneh. She has two spare beds upstairs, and

Saturday from 9 am to 5 pm. opened in late 2007, and is focused on both local has hosted guests before. The Univermag is the big building north of Komitas and tourist trade. Amenities include heating, a/c, Square on the left. The once bustling Soviet store An optician is located opposite the bus station on Internet connection (suites) and sauna. Largest Near H’raparak that theoretically offered everything (“Univer”) in Atarbekian Poghots, open Monday to Saturday suite can sleep up to 6 people. Prices are per SURIK (tel. 57304), Atarbekian 98, has two beds one store (“mag” short for “magazin”), is being from 9am to 5 pm. room with SGL/DBL/STE at 8700-10,000/12,000- in a single room available for lodgers. renovated and already open with a few shops. 25,000/25,000-40,000 AMD.

B Dentist Near Shoghakat/Hripsimeh The Shuka (market) is between Alaverdian and Atamnabuzhner can be found at the State Dental VAN MOTEL/RESTAURANT (tel. 48024) is located The area above Shoghakat and Hripsimeh Vanks, Baghramian and sells fresh produce, meat and Polyclinic (13 ), (tel. 56331), next to the Computer on the Markara-Zvartnots Janapar, 2 kilometer between Nalbandian, Spendarian and staples. Prices are cheaper than Yerevan, the food Games on Atarbekian Poghots, 50 meters east of east of the Markara Road. The motel is also a Hoktemberian Poghots, has some of the nicest fresher in the summer, atmosphere is pure haggle. the bus station, open Monday to Saturday from 9 restaurant, with individual glass-roofed dining traditional homes in Echmiadzin. Homes are built

am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 5 pm. rooms off of each double room. There are also around central courtyards with large porches or There are food markets throughout the center. three luxe suites. Spacious rooms are basically balconies overlooking the gardens.

A 24 hour service private dentist (35), (tel. 42527) clean with hot showers. Air-conditioned FilmB is located one block north of Mashtots Poghots on doubles/luxe cost 15,000/20,000 AMD. The MRS. HASMIK AZATIAN (tel. 41630), Nalbandian Kodak and Konica Film Shops (11, 16, 39, 56) are Kirov, at the end of the apartment building on the complex also includes an outdoor pool and sauna, Arachin Nerpansk 5a (1st Cul de Sac off of located along Atarbekian and Mashtots Poghots. west. Nalbandian, house 5a). The house is on the right

Armavir Marz: page 46 of 94 - © 2008 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® as you turn the corner into the cul de sac., has a Inexpensive food is found at the FOOD STANDS in A GRILL is located between the Mterk Shop and Poghots. Khorovats is sold at 4000 AMD a kilo, pleasant little home with lace curtains on the and around the shuka, and include hot dogs, Xerox on Mashtots Poghots, and serves enough for four people. $ window and a large porch in back overlooking her hamburgers, fried perashkis, cheburekis, Gharsi sandwiches and for 250-1000 AMD a garden. She has two beds. khorovats (a sandwich of grilled slivers of meat serving. $ ZVARTNOTS RESTAURANT/MOTEL, (tel. 48024) is with onions, herbs and a sauce) and located on the Markara-Zvartnots Janapar, 2 Three other homes on Nalbandian Poghots are khachapuri selling for 150-500 AMD a serving. $ KHOROVATS STANDS Khorovats stands proliferate kilometer east of the Markara Road. The motel is #68, #70 and #73. Spaces vary from spare on Baghramian Poghots, in and around the Shuka, also a restaurant, with individual glass-roofed rooms to an entire home. Call or see David at Van SHUKA The cheapest of course is buying your own and on Kirov Poghots. A shish of khorovats with dining rooms off of each double room. Armenian Motel (tel. 48024). fresh meats, cheese, bread, vegetables and fruit at lavash, onions and greens costs around 1500 AMD, feasts are their specialty, hard to get out for less the shuka and preparing on your own. The Shuka a kebab sandwich is 400-1000 AMD. $ than 3500 AMD. $$$ South of Mashtots Poghots is open from 9 am to 6 pm $

ANDRANIK AZATIAN AND ANZHIK PETROSSIAN Near Guyaneh (tel. 55503), Nalbandian Poghots 45, have a large KIOSKS line Kirov and Kostanian Poghots one ODJAKH (tel. 52718), located 150 meters VAN RESTAURANT/MOTEL, (cell 091-40-26-31, hostel-style building about 500 meters south of block north and south of Mashtots, and sell southwest of the public swimming pool off Issey ask for Valodia) complex continues to grow with Echmiadzin on Manukian Poghots 1, with 12 cookies, sodas, ice cream, as well as other staple les Moulineaux (just before it narrows to one lane, cottages, a full-service restaurant, bar, disco, rooms, shared bath, and a huge walled-in garden. goods. $ take the road to the right). Open 10 am to 10 pm. casino, outdoor pool, sauna, weight room, all set in The rooms are still being furnished, but this is an The building is a white stucco caravan tent design, a tropical garden. Feasts, expensive. $$$ excellent option for small groups with their own A number of MTERK shops line Mashtots and with dining hutches off a central buffet. A filling bed rolls. 10,000-15,000 AMD per person. Atarbekian Poghots, selling meats, cheese, canned meal of khorovats, , salads, fruit and dessert END ECHMIADZIN goods and other staples. $ costs 30500+ AMD. $$$ SURO (tel. 43983) at Kardjikian Arachin Nerpansk ² ² ² ² ² #4 (1st cul de sac off of Karjikian, house # 4) has a private house with a spare room for two lodgers.

Next to the Ring Café is JULIETA BABAIAN (tel. 57829), Mashtots Poghots 48 apt. 20, who has a spare room with two beds to let for single sex or married lodgers only. Nora Sarkissian (tel. 52463), Dzerzhinsky Poghots 82b, has a spacious and clean room.

Boarding/Apartment is a distinct possibility in Echmiadzin, the locals crave the income and some have very sweet little places to offer. Ask around and you will have your pick of several rooms or apartments to choose from. 5000-7000 AMD a night for bed and breakfast is fair.

FOODB AND DRINK a Cafés NearB Hripsimeh NOTE: Eateries change rapidly in Armenia, and In the summer, outdoor café's can be found RING CAFÉ (57829), Mashtots Poghots 48, is set in Echmiadzin is no different. Expect prices to rise, around Komitas H’raparak. One of the most a small garden with a pair of peacocks roaming the and venues to close and open almost overnight. pleasant cafes is in the Zbosaigi (Stroll Park) just premises. In addition to their café menu, they Summer season will have the best options, winter south of H’raparak. Open during the summer, the also serve grilled chicken and kebab for 1000-2000 will seem like a desert. café includes four cabanas and serves kebab, grill AMD. $-$$ and sandwiches. $-$$

Cafes and bistros are throughout the city, as are khorovats joints in town and on the Highway to Center VAGHARSHAPAT, Mashtots pta, across from Spitak/Alaverdi. Food can also be bought at An ARMENIAN KITCHEN, cattycorner from the Hripsimeh monastery. The restaurant serves mterks and kiosks around town. Central Bank serves khorovats (2000 AMD a Armenian fare at reasonable prices (2500-3500 shish), kebab (1000 AMD) and chicken grill (1000 AMD for full meals), and features wedding parties $= 2000 AMD or less for meal w/o drinks AMD). $-$$ on weekends. $$-$$$ $$ = 2000-3000 AMD $$$ = above 3000 AMD Another ARMENIAN KITCHEN is located just above Outside the Komitas Statue in Mashtots Park and has the URENI BISTRO, open 10 am to 10 pm, is on the Cheap Eats same menu and prices. $-$$ Echmiadzin-Yerevan Highway off of Sovetneri

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 From Echmiadzin (S. Hripsimeh), go E on the of the Armenian King Khosrov in the mid 3rd Armenian Church, it has been variously translated Echmiadzin Hwy (M5) and continue for about century. as “Vigilant Ones”, “Vigilant forces”, “Archangels” 2.5 km to a metal gate and large stone column and “Celestial Beings” or variants on the theme of topped by an eagle on the S side of the highway soldiers, angles and celestial. enter onto a 900m asphalt drive to ZVARTNOTS CATHEDRAL (DD 40.160115 x 44.336709, elev. 882m) Æ + O

² ZVARTNOTS - ¼ì²ðÂÜàò (¼í³ñïÝáó)

S (cathedral and village, Pop. 750), open 10-5, 1000 AMD, is located in the village of the same name (also called Echmiadzin), next to Ptghunk, on the Echmiadzin Highway about halfway between Zvartnots airport and Hripsimeh Church in Echmiadzin.

[MAP]

The church was a physical embodiment of the vision of Grigor saw in establishing the new religion, supposedly named for the archangels or Another suggestion is more controversial, saying

“celestial soldiers” in his dream. In reality the the name derived from the pre-Christian word church was built over one of Armenia’s main Pagan “Zvartnonk”, a name given to a spirit that roused Interlaced with this was the 640 invasion of complexes, a site of still practicing clandestine the dead to life. Armenia by Arab hordes, a sudden and fierce rituals in the 7th c when the cathedral destroyed incursion by fanatics bent on forced conversion the old temples and finally drove the pagans Denied by church officials, this name nevertheless and plunder. Dvin and Vagharshapat suffered underground. fits the pre-Christian period for the site and the devastating destruction at the hands of the Arabs, discovery of Vishap fragments there, associated who swept through on their way West, into a 200 It was also the focus of Armenia’s changing with rebirth and life after death. And for centuries year confrontation with Byzantium. Some fortunes during the early Arab period, when the site was known as the center of a cult that attribute the date for laying the first stones of the Byzantium struggled with both the Arabs and lasted well into Armenia’s Christian era, the church church to 643, as Armenia sought to recover from Armenians for dominance over the region; with waging fierce and apparently fruitless battles to the initial invasion. Continued Arab raids forced a Arabs to stop their relentless drive west; with wipe out a center of Paganism just 3 km from the stop to the construction. Armenia to force it to renounce its monotheistic Holy See at Vagharshapat, on the main road to the religion and adopt the Greek Church entirely. Built Armenian capital of Dvin. for a Catholicos who was sympathetic to Byzantium and Armenia’s struggle against Arab According to this view, finally, by order of the dominance, Zvartnots came to symbolize both the Catholicos Nerses III (known as “Nerses the final triumph of Christianity over Paganism and a Builder” for the number of churches built during symbol of independence in the face of Moslem his tenure, and the capitulation of paganism under foes. his reign), a Christian church was built on the site between 640-662 , and the holy seat of the In 2000, Zvartnots, along with the churches of Hripsimeh, Armenian Church was transferred there, thereby The cathedral, referred to as both Zvartnots and Guyaneh and the Mother See at Echmiadzin, was converting the center of paganism to Christianity. Grigor Lusavorich by medieval historians, was built declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. at the spot where legend has it Grigor Lusavorich Inspired by an interpretation of the Apocalypse met and cured the mad king T’rdat, thus initiating BACKGROUND that predicted the second coming of the Lord when the conversion of the country to Christianity. It is The site has been the focus of worship from at the seven main churches of Christianity came also believed to be the spot where the 1st c least the Bronze Age, as evidenced by a fire pit together, Zvartnots was built to be the 'seventh apostles Thaddeus and Bartholomew met during and Vishap fragments uncovered at the site. seal of the seventh tier of God's presence on their ministry. And further, it is said to be the spot Excavations also uncovered Urartian temple earth'. where Grigor Lusavorich himself was born, under a foundations and a sacrificial altar. The name itself At the same time, Armenia had been waging a tree, while his family was fleeing the persecution is the stuff of controversy. Usually attributed to a carefully orchestrated diplomacy between their vision Grigor Lusavorich had when establishing the previous overlords that Achaemenid Persians and

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Byzantium, both of which sought control over dome of St. Sophia in Istanbul, since the master some say the church could not have been a direct Armenian lands. The Arabs wiped out the Persian architect for Zvartnots was commissioned to inspiration for the panel. Models of the church Royal family in their first invasion, leaving only the design the dome using the tubular arch system could have; they were preserved into the medieval Byzantines to offer resistance. During the developed at Zvartnots. period, including a close copy of the church at Ani, Marzpanate period, the Byzantines had used which may have been the inspiration for the Paris Armenia as a buffer zone in their fights with The church became known as S. Grigor for the image. Persia, but now that the Persians were gone, and relics of the saint that were housed there. Similar misunderstanding the seriousness of the Arab churches in the region, built in the same period The church in Ani is considered a perfect copy of invasion, the Byzantine emperor Constans II were the 7th c Ishkhan (present Turkey) and Liakit the original and has been used to reconstruct (Constantine Heraclius) chose to ignore warnings (present Azerbaijan), 7th-8th cc Bana (Georgia) Zvartnots (see below). Still, the original building and pleas for help from Armenia, instead and S. Grigor at Ani (ca. 1000). became buried over time, its exact location lost. demanding the Armenians apostatize their monotheist belief and convert to the Greek Its fall is as controversially debated as its An archimandrite monk named Khachik Dadian Orthodoxy. construction. According to a 10th c historian, the discovered the site in 1905. Comprehensive church lay in ruins in the same century, though no excavations were done between 1904-1907, reason was given. Many suggest earthquake as continuing off and on through the 1950’s, when the cause, though its construction technique defies the palace and a winery were uncovered. Not long after the Byzantines took the upper hand that reason alone for the total collapse of such a again, this time at the behest of the Armenians well engineered building, one meant to last 1000 (ever reliable in switching sides), and the years (the projected date of the second coming of Catholicos returned to Vagharshapat, determined Christ). to complete his cathedral at Zvartnots. Supported by both the Greeks and Armenia’s nakharars, the Excavations uncovered signs of an earlier attempt church was completed in relatively record time, to destroy the church through fire, possibly by sometime before 661, when the Arab era resumed. invading Arabs. The fire had the reverse affect of strengthening the joints, firing them into brick. An amalgam of Byzantine and Syrian styles, the new cathedral combined aspects of both into a One thought is that it took the pulling out of unique structure never before seen, and can truly strategic key stones in the structure to ultimately be called Nerses’ masterpiece. The tallest church weaken the structure. Still, it is believed that it on earth when it was built, Zvartnots was the most took decades of exposure to natural elements to significant architectural development in the finally weaken the second tier, which fell in the Finally, in an attempt to stave off the Arabs, . 10th c (ca. 930). Armenians sued for peace with the Arabs in 652, incurring the wrath and invasion of the Byzantines the same year, who took the capital of Dvin, again demanding a religious union with the Greek church and adoption of the tenets of Chalcedony; namely the acceptance of the “full humanity and full divinity” of Christ, as opposed to the Armenian monotheist belief that Christ is only divine. RECONSTRUCTING THE CHURCH As with its birth and death, what it actually looked Arab supporters (mainly nakharars who stood to like is also hotly debated in historical circles, with gain from making compact with the Arabs who some consensus on the general outline but little offered semi-autonomy while the Byzantines else in the details. demanded complete subservience), took the upper end and forced the Byzantines out, along with the Catholicos, Nerses, who actually favored union with the Greeks. He settled in the village of

Ishkhan, where he supervised the construction of a Excavations Some excavations were done in the church that became one of the precursors to 12th century, and the church is believed to have Zvartnots. In 652, the Byzantine Roman Emperor Constantine been depicted in a relief panel at Paris’ St. II attended the consecration of the temple, and, Chapelle (1240), showing the church on top of impressed by its design and achievement, decreed Noah’s Ark on Mt. Ararat. Since this depiction was that a similar church be erected in Constantinople. made 300 years after the church’s destruction, The church architecture has a direct impact on the

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King Gagik. The medieval historian Stepanos Asoghiketsi wrote

“It was at that time, at the end of the 1000th year of Our Lord's incarnation, at the time of the Emperor Basil, that Gagik, King of Armenia, was taken with the idea of building in the city of Ani a church similar in size and plan to the great church at Vagharshapat, dedicated to St. Gregory, which was then in ruins."

The most widely accepted reconstruction was done by an Armenian architect in 1905 (refined in 1942). Toros Toramanian based his design on Mnatsakanian reconstruction detailed excavations that painstakingly pulled stones out of the rubble and pieced them together What is agreed to is that the interior was a cross, on the grounds, assembling a huge jigsaw puzzle with arches, columns and pendentives supporting that explained much of the outer walls on the first the second and third floors and the dome. The and part of the second tier, but which failed to tell bottom floor was surrounded by a two story gallery much about the roofing and the top tier. (the faceted walls) with closely placed windows Toramanian reconstruction letting in light from all directions.

Considering what he had to work with were Toramanian’s design was widely disseminated until foundations, pieces of vaulting, a few capitals, Four massive columns (or pylons) rose from the later excavations (Kuznetsov 1951, Marutunian, bases, piers, columns and fragments of relief junction of the semi-circular arms of the cross, 1963; Mnatsakanian, 1959, 1971) refined the sculpture, the resulting design is remarkable, its with monumental columns behind crowned by design and proposed different roofing and minor basic layout widely accepted as correct. eagle crested capitals supporting the circular details. But by a large excavators agreed on the foundations of the second tier. The third tier was basic design of the huge building. supported by four semi-columns with linking arches, which formed a square shape joined by According to these men, the church was built in a pendentives (triangular sections of vaulting Toramanian and his colleagues pieced together a three tiered circular design, which tapered like a between the rim of a dome and each adjacent pair design in 1905 after comparing the finds at Ani wedding cake to the top. The walls were faceted, of the arches that support it) with the circular with that at Zvartnots, and especially the discovery with 32 facets on the ground floor, 16 on the dome. of a large Model Statue of King Gagik that stood on second and 8 on the third, the whole thing topped the east wall of the Ani church. by a tent style or cupped dome. The interior was covered with rich detailing, including relief sculptures, mosaics, architectural Statuary like this was common in medieval times, The roofing over the other floors was either detailing and frescoes of the saints, especially on church donors depicted in bas relief figures on the circular as well, or as the second picture on the the altar walls. apse wall, holding a model of the church. It right suggests, circular on the first floor and tent- should be noted that an actual model of either roofed over four protruding second story apses and church was never found, and most modern cupped on the top. Each facet had a window, with historians (and tour guides) rest the argument on round windows like those at Ani on the ground an artistic rendition done by a Polish artist at the floor. Much debate has centered on the type of Ani excavation, based on supposition only. Still, elevation and form of what may have been the

enough of both excavations survived to allow second level, shown by the opposing designs. Toramanian had some help with excavations done Toramanian and his colleagues to make a at the same time as Zvartnots, at the Bagratuni preliminary reconstruction. capital of Ani current Turkey). There excavators

(including Toramanian) uncovered the foundations, fragments and a model of a later church, S. Grigor, which was built around 1000 for the Bagratuni

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adding those tog ether you arrive at … 3 (the holiest patterns. Among them are interior capitals number, the number of the trinity). combining cross hatching with volutes or a cross, each embellished with a letter standing for The church was actually one meter larger when it “Nerses” or “Catholicos”. Other capitals represent was first built, due to the use of lime cement that the eagle, while outer wall designs contained a was deliberately laid to compress over time. Over continuous rim of grape vines and pomegranate 50-100 years the weight of the stones slowly trees with ripe fruit. The plasticity of the carvings settled to a much tighter and stronger edifice that established a new level of artistry in Armenia. was meant to last 1000 years (the predicted time Following the tradition of carving Khachkars so for the coming of the Lord after the joining of the that no two are alike, the designs on the facade of seven churches). On the north was a multi-step the Zvartnots are each a unique creation of the stylobate (foundation), which--with the then master, some of whom were represented on unheard of size of the church-- gave the entire faceted gargoyles on the church facade. complex a tremendous sense of grandeur.

COMPLEX The arms of a cross are made by six massive columns The cathedral was surrounded by a large plaza and a erected on a semi-circular plane, the eastern arm (where number of buildings made from polished tufa, and the the elevated altar apse was placed) ending in a blind wall, complex includes the church, the Catholicos’ palace and covered with mosaic and fresco paintings. The ends of clergy buildings, and a winery. the cross created interior apses, the joints between held mighty pylons that supported the drum and dome by THE CHURCH means of a series of spherical pendentives. The columns and the inner arcature for the four apses served as buttresses for the second floor, with a likewise series of supports for the third floor.

Placing the altar on the Eastern side of the church alters a tradition handed down by some pagans, which oriented the inner sanctum to the West. On one side of the altar was a stone pulpit with a baptismal font facing it. The vestry room was

located immediately behind the altar in the back. PALACE

The palace complex, southwest of the church, Using an early-medieval central dome design, Zvartnots extended the base to a 37.75 meter consists of western and eastern wings divided by a corridor. This was where the catholicos lived and diameter circle (note the numbers 3-7-7-5). The One of the outstanding features of Zvartnots is the worked, leading the church in its struggles with the church was built in three tiers, with the first and decoration; frescoes covered the walls (especially Arabs, Byzantines and the last vestiges of Pagan largest housing the congregation. It was girded by at the altar) and highly decorative stone carvings resistance in the country. It was his office, home a corridor ringing the entire hall. The corridor was were everywhere, incorporating florid designs on lit through the circular windows, one for each facet the five portals, decorative arcades, capitals of and the Seat of the Apostolic Church.

in the circular outer walls. columns, spandrels (with images of the builders in Nerses’ palace was the largest civil structure in 7th high relief), the surface of facets, edges, window The three tiers formed three corridors, or inner circles, casings and cornices. century Armenia, and was built to impress the eye while complementing the cathedral’s design. Its where the congregation stood during services. The plan was almost square, with the rooms roofed The overall design was inspired by the Hand of uninitiated (folks like you and me) were forbidden The images of the builders are particularly over in the peasant style, with wooden roofs God, with the palm on the Eastern end, the five from entering the inner two circles. Initiated (the interesting, as they are rare instances of crediting topped by open holes. The arcaded gallery on the fingers stretching to the west. The actual design is baptized, priestly class and the favored aristocrats) builders other than through their initials or mark. north and south ends were built using oversized circular, but it is not hard to imagine the hand were allowed in the second inner circle, while the The half-sized figures show the builders holding arches supported by wall buttresses and columns, imprint; the Eastern sanctuary (the palm) was innermost circle (where the baptismal font was , with initials or names nearby (one says designed to conceal the palace walls while shut from human eyes while doors lie at five points located) was restricted to the most elect. “Ionn” or “John”). Some say these depict the complementing the massive cathedral. on the main circle (the fingers). The number 5 and 7 founders instead. In either case, they are a predominate in the design and dimensions; both sacred marvel of realistic depiction for the 7th c, showing and eruptive numbers, signaling the builder's intent that individual faces, clothing and poses. From the North the throne hall abutted living the church was an end of one era, and the beginning of a quarters The eastern wing of the palace held living new age. Adding the digits you arrive at the number 12 On reconstructed columns, you can see original quarters for clergy and a single nave church (twelve apostles, months, signs of the apocalypse) and by capitals that combine Corinthian and early predating the palace. The wing facing the temple Armenian Khachkar (Stone Cross) geometric square had an arcade gallery. The winery

Armavir Marz: page 51 of 94 - © 2008 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® consisted of four wine-press rooms where grape MUSEUM number of interesting stops most people never juice trickled down and along an inclined surface I have been coming to Zvartnots for 15 years and see. into round stone vats in the next two rooms. the museum is ALWAYS closed; always in a state of “preparing the exhibition.” Yet the museum is This is a real shame, since the northeast has some The western wing had two large halls, one of which the exact same state of readiness it was 15 years great stops for the history buff, and tasty was the main hall (the “summer hall”), where ago—all displays are complete and ready for vegetables and fruits for the rest, all easily receptions and conferences were held. The triple visitors. accessible from Yerevan or Echmiadzin. It also has nave hall had vaulted ceilings and rows of support some of the friendliest villagers in the country, columns. I’ve become so fed up with this obvious attempt to thrilled to have visitors come by and proud of their not work, I have resorted to simply walking in and heritage. Most villages were resettled I the 19th The second, smaller hall was the refectory and acting like I don’t understand when they try to century, so memories of the bygone past may be throne room, adjoining the main hall to the South. shoo me away. And my ‘ignorance’ works. My sketchy (interlaced with stories of their “real Like palace halls in Dvin and Harich, the Zvartnots advice: pretend you don’t understand and see how home” in Western Armenia). hall had wall buttresses to support the vaulted far it gets you. Another: they do speak English. roofing, which separated the walls into arched The Northeast has been the vegetable and fruit niches. Museum hours (such as they are) are from 10-5, for Armenia for thousands of years, as well seven days a week. Tickets are 500 AMD. as capitalizing on Armenia’s flower craze; the Later additions to the south of the throne room eastern marz has thousands of greenhouses in just included three winery rooms that held square vats It is a real shame the place is always “closed”, for about every villager’s backyard, growing exotic for fermenting wine. Each vat held 4-5 thousand it has a small but well thought introduction to the varieties of roses, lilies and even orchid. Don’t liters of wine, with total capacity of 22,000 liters site and brings the varying designs and expect to get much of a discount though, locals (almost 5,800 gallons). The large jar on display in reconstructions together. sell wholesale to tourists at retail prices. EXPLORING THE REGION H  this area is a copy, but it gives some idea of the Most of these trips can be done in a single day by size of the jars used to ferment and store wine. It has only recently started to experience a new car, depending on how many sites you visit and purpose, as bedroom communities for the how long you spend at each stop. Sites in UPPER The East Wing included living quarters, service burgeoning capital. Four-story dachas and lavishly CASE are considered sites definitely worth a stop, rooms and private quarters, including storage and decorated houses are springing up between while those in (lower case italics) have value in a bath. The bath was divided into public and Yerevan and Echmiadzin, and their ostentatious visiting, but will probably take up more than a day private areas (reserved for privileged guests). The displays of wealth (and outlandish taste) do not if you include them all in one trip. Bear in mind bath was similar to the Roman baths at Garni, always sit well with old-timers, but it is a fact of that no matter how “close” a site seems to be on with hypocaust heating under its tiled floors to life (and growing land wealth) for the rest, who the map, it may be reached only by a rocky path heat the rooms in successive stages, from the seem to take it in stride as they farm their lands in or pot-hole filled road, and could take 30-45 dressing room to the cold bath, warm bath the shadows of their new neighbors. minutes to get to. (tepidarium), a hot or steam bath (caldarium) and a cooling (frigidarium) room. Æ + 4 O 4 camping possible Stay: Hotels, restaurant-hotels and motels on the + overnight Adjoining the bath on its south side was a small (M5) from Yerevan to Echmiadzin, Aknalich and Æ food and drink 5th-6th century chapel, to the south of which was near Armavir; guest houses/apts. in Echmiadzin O thermal, mineral spring the large wine-press. and Armavir; village homes (rustic) throughout the

marz; Camping at Aknalich and near villages (no

There are also some good artifacts on display, including a forest cover). sun dial with the inscription “Pray to God as He expects’, TRIP 1: NORTHEAST ARMAVIR H H Eat: Restaurants & cafes on the (M5), Echmiadzin

and an inscription by Nerses III in Greek. A small hall has ARGAVAND – (Geghanist) - (Arevashat) - and Armavir, Sardarapat; restaurant-hotels on the a large wall display of the church outlines, a great help in (Baghramian) - (Parakar) – (M5) and Aknalich; mterks and kiosks in understanding ruins. PTGHUNK/MUSALEHR - ZVARTNOTSH - Echmiadzin, Armavir and villages. (Mrgastan) – (Shahumian) - (Dasht) – Springs: freshwater cold springs at villages, In front of the museum there is a basalt obelisk of AIGESHAT – (Amberd) – (Doghs) – Echmiadzin, Metsamor, and Aknalich. the Urartu king Rusa II (685-675 BCE) with a AGHAVNATUN – ARAGATS – (Tsaghkalanj) – cuneiform inscription commemorating the (Samaghar) – (Haitagh) – (Arshaluis) – Â From Echmiadzin: (S. Hripsimeh), taking the construction of a canal from the Hrazdan (Aviator Monument) – (Tsaghkunk) – (M5) E for about 11.8 km to the last stop light in (“Ildaruni”) River. () – (Hovtamech) Argavand, taking a R (S) for 200 m to the WW

II monument at Argavand. Food at mterks and grill stands in the village; Trip 1 explores Northeast Armavir marz, wedged Overnight at Yerevan, Echmiadzin, at hotels between the Zvartnots International Airport and From Yerevan: (Cognac Factory), where the situated between, or in a village home (rustic, Echmiadzin. The region is also home to Zvartnots Echmiadzin Highway (M5) begins. From the 5000 AMD for B&B is fair); Springs in the area. Cathedral, which everyone tires to see, and a large factory continue about 3 km to the cloverleaf

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intersection for “” neighborhood; The village center (200m S of the highway) has an In front of the entrance is a rams head stone found wishes. His throne embraces the heavens and Continue W on the (M5) for about 2.5 km to the impressive 1413 Tatar Funerary Tower. in the yard during excavations, some saying the earth, and He is not burdened by guarding retail and casino district for Argavand. There is Attributed to the Kara Koyunlu period, which medieval like the stones at Ria Taza in Aragatsotn, them. Indeed Great and High is He. a stop light at the village entry; take a L (S) immediately followed Timur Lenk’s devastating others saying Bronze Age like other ram head onto a narrow road that winds its way behind rule, the tower celebrates in Arabic the piousness stones found throughout the country. Ordered to build this blessed tomb (kubba) the the furniture shops and casinos for about 200 m and humility of an equally ruthless Pir Hussein abn greatest, the noblest, abundant in generosity to a R (W) that leads to the WWII monument at Sa’ad, a local tribal leader who ruled the area The tower is a tall 8-sided column that was once and magnanimity, the support of kings and ARGAVAND (DD 40.15638 x 44.43998, elev. during the reign of Pir Budaq and Kara Yussuf, topped with a colored ceramic brick dome , refuge for the weak and the poor, 892m) + Æ O leaders of the Turcoman Kara Koyunlu (Black (assumed to have been blue like the ceramic guardian of scientists and those who seek Sheep) tribe which inherited Timur’s Persian bricks ringing the upper octahedron). The knowledge, aid to the poor and wayfarers, the

² ARGAVAND - ²ð¶²ì²Ü¸ (²ñ·³í³Ý¹) S possessions, including Armenia. Pir Budaq shared monuments rest in the center of a small cemetery, glory of the state and the faith, Emir Pir- (pop. 2250), technically in Ararat marz, is located the throne with his father before his death in 1413. and inside there are a number of items found Hussein, son of the late absolved Emir elevated on the right bank of the Hrazdan River as it widens during excavations. They include vase and jar to His [Allah's] patronage, the most merciful and empties into the Ararat Plain. Wedged Tatar like the Timurids and the before fragments and a number of small stones round on Emir Sa'ad, -- may the soil lie light upon him -- between the western them, the Black Sheep came from Central Asia, one end with petroglyph carvings on their face; in the days of reign of the Great , the (Shengavit is across the river and “Bangladesh” and ruled Armenia for about 50 years before being designs resembling Egyptian hieroglyphs or most generous Khakan, the Sultan of Sultans in just east) and Zvartnots Airport, the village is expelled by the Ak Koyunlu, of White Sheep who constellations. the East and the West, the aid of the state and made prosperous by the boon in the flower trade ruled for about 70 years before being wiped out by the faith, Pir Budaq Khan and Yussuf Noyon, -- and its infamous positions as Armenia’s “Little Ottomans. Historians are split on the effects of the They have not been dated, but some suggest they may Allah perpetuate their power, on the Las Vegas”. Black and White Sheep rule, some pointing to may be the remnants of a standing fifteenth of Radzhab of the year 816 [October treaties between a dying out nakharar regime with that once stood at the site, since covered over by 11, 1413]. As to the first, every yard is taken up by Black Sheep leaders as a tentative period of peace the tower. Interestingly, on the outer face of the greenhouses that overshadow their front homes (one could not call it prosperity—Timur literally tower there are a few carvings much in the same Next to the funerary tower is an impressive WWII and grow the roses, daisies and lilies street decimated the entire country, and famine was vein as these smaller ones, and inside, a large monument, with the solider posed deep in vendors charge a fortune for in Yerevan. For the widespread). Others point to the continued loss of khachkar stone with a central ansk (eye-hole) is thought with his long coat flowing outwards. latter, the main highway that fronts the village is lands to Tatar, Kurdish and Turkish tribes, and embedded in one of the walls. taken up by mini-casinos and gambling joints treatment of Armenian subjects that made some elbowing room with neighboring cheap furniture reflect on the Mongol invasions as a time of stores, the den of many a ruined husband trying to relative peace and quiet. win his family’s fortune. As a side note, the tribes’ names come from the The casinos can be dangerous; according to locals, color of the heraldic forms on their battle flags, not fights involving knives and guns are more of a from their herding preferences or, being better or common occurrence than the authorities want to worse than the Timurids—in fact, their reign in admit to. If you really want to try your luck, there many ways cemented the splintering of the are higher end (and relatively quieter) casinos on Armenian lands and the exile of native Armenians the E end of Yerevan on the road to Garni, and in from the territory. the Hrazdan valley north of Yerevan at Ptghni.

The tower faces a three-prong road fork; take the The Arabic inscriptions begin with a Sura from the central (a small sign above the street with a color Koran, then extol the virtues of the assumed picture of a miniature painting points the way) and exhumed, and read: continue S for about 100 m to S. Sarkis church, substantially renovated and “upgraded” in a 1997 In the name of Allah gracious and merciful! redo to commemorate the 1700th anniversary Allah -- there is no god besides him, alive, real; celebrations. Despite the poured concrete and neither drowsiness nor sleep can seize Him, He erasing much of the character of the old church, owns everything in the Heavens and on the traces of its original building survive, including Earth. Who will plead, except with His stones and basement from an original pagan use. permission? He knows what was before them and what will be after them, while they perceive nothing from His knowledge other than He

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matagh (ritual sacrifice) and to tie strips of cloth distinguished solely for its location next to the  From Argavand, continue SW on the main street to nearby bushes (wishing trees or a “burning Musalehr monument and restaurant complex on its for about 800 m from the rail bridge to central bushes”) at the site. In fact, while the village E and a hotel in the village to the south. (Geghanist, DD 40. 14596 x 44.42736, elev. church is venerated in due Christian form, 869m) + Æ O villagers often reserve their most fervent prayers for their Tukh Manuk, women especially SIDE TRIP: Geghanist - ¶»Õ³ÝÇëï (till 1948 who are barren or worried about conception. Kolkat, pop. 2500) is also technically in Ararat marz, but more easily reached via the (M5) and Overnight in Yerevan, Echmiadzin, hotels on is just across the marz border from Arevashat in the (M5) or in a village home (rustic, 5000 AMD Armavir. The small village with dozens of for B&B is fair); Food at mterks or kiosks in the greenhouses growing flowers, greens, tomatoes village; Springs in the village. and cucumbers, has a basilica that was rebuilt in 1852 on the ruins of an older shrine.  From Arevashat backtrack to Argavand and the Overnight in Yerevan, Echmiadzin, hotels on (M5) highway, turn L (W) and continue for the (M5) or in a village home (rustic, 5000 AMD about 3 km to the church at (Parakar, DD A basilica, the church has a few remnants of old for B&B is fair); Food at (M5) restaurants-cafes, 40.16216 x 44.39787, elev. 864m) + Æ O khachkars on it perimeter, and one in the front mterks or kiosks in the village; Springs in the portico that is embedded with ceramic pictures of village. SIDE TRIP: Parakar - ö³ñ³ù³ñ (before Musa Lehr Monument commemorates the heroes S. Sarkis, the crucifixion and other religious Shirabad, pop. 2000), like Argavand, is equally of Musa Lehr (also spelled Musa Ler or ; images. This stone is one of the oldest, and may  From Geghanist, continue SW on the main road flush with cash from the casinos and flop houses Musa Dagh in Turkish), members of a community have originally been a vishap or standing stone. for about 1 km to a R (NW) road that leads in 1 lining the (M5) highway, with the equally of six villages on the small Musa Lehr (Lehr means km to a L (SW) turn that leads in about 700 m disruptive influences of mafia “oligarch” fights mountain in Armenian) on the Turkish Coast who Backtrack to the tower and take the R (SE) road to Arbat center, where a R (NW) turn leads breaking out among the sharkskin suits coming chose to refuse Turkish death squad orders to that in about 100m reaches the NE edge of the old across the S end of Zvartnots Airport and in and going. evacuate their mountain during the genocide of cemetery. Almost in its middle are the scant ruins about 2 km makes a sharp R (NE) then L (SW) 1915. Knowing the fate of their brethren who of the 5th c S. Harutiun church, surrounded by turn at the edge of the runway into (Arevashat, The village has a recently renovated 19th c. S. complied with Turkish orders (up to 2 million were graves, bushes covered with tied strips of cloth DD 40.14242 x 44.37269, elev. 851m) + Æ O Mariam Astvatsatsin basilica facing the slaughtered or starved to death on force marches led by Turkish and and a couple of ancient stones. An upright stone highway, a well-loved and well-used Kurdish forces), the in front of the makeshift metal altar is either a SIDE TRIP: Arevashat - ²ñ¢³ß³ï (till 1946 neighborhood church that receives an influx of citizens of Musa Lehr vishap or phallus, suggesting the pagan origins of Varmazyar, pop. 1250) has a basilica church pilgrims on the high holidays. The church has a chose to resist, building this tiny sacred spot. (19th century built over ruins of older shrine) few old stones it the yard, suggesting an older fortifications on the and a Tukh Manuk (“Dark Youth”) shrine. The history than its brand-spanking new red tufa small mountain name denotes the color of the skin of this walls suggest. overlooking the ancient deity that is an amalgam of Sanskrit- . Caucasian origins and that is in some traditions The village also has a S. Harutiun church dated

a randy blood-thirsty youth that doles out pain to 1855, which seems built over medieval and For 53 days they and favors in equal measure, depending on the early Christian structures, though scant remains repelled onslaughts by sacrifices given. Steeped in the mists of time, to tell the tale. Turkish troops until the tradition is believed to come from at least French sailors sighted a the early Bronze Age, when Indo-Iranian and Overnight in Yerevan, Echmiadzin, hotels on banner the Armenians Indo-Aryan (Indo-European) tribes from the the (M5) or in a village home (rustic, 5000 AMD had tied to a tree on Caucasus scattered into Iran, India, Central Asia for B&B is fair); Food at restaurants on the the mountain and the Mediterranean, combining proto-myths (M5) or mterks or kiosks in the village; Springs emblazoned with the and religions into unifying concepts that extend in the village. words: “Christians in to the present day. Distress: Rescue.” French and British naval ships  From Parakar (S. Mariam), continue W on the then evacuated some 4,200 men, women and Tukh Manuks are single sanctuaries with one (M5) for about 2.8 km to the Musalehr children from Musa Ler to Port Said in Egypt. The identifying tomb or sacred stone that marks a monument road that forms the E edge of Armenians were allowed to return after WWI to long-forgotten sacred person or event that PTGHUNK/MUSALEHR (DD 40.19071 x Overnight in Yerevan, Echmiadzin, hotels situated their homeland in the newly formed Syria. The occurred at the spot. Converted into Christian 44.36853, elev. 937m) + ÆO in-between or in a village home (rustic, 5000 AMD people of Musa Ler were soon forced to relocate, shrines in medieval times, the Tukh Manuk for B&B is fair); Food at grill stands in the village after Turkey annexed the region. Many were never quite lost its pagan blood-thirsty ² PTGHUNK/MUSALEHR - äîÔàôÜø/ and restaurants-hotels on the (M5); Springs in resettled in Lebanon, in the village Anjar, and meaning, local villagers continuing to perform Øàôê²Èºè (äïÕáõÝù/ Øáõë³É»é) (pop. 800) is the village.

Armavir Marz: page 54 of 94 - © 2008 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® many others settled in Armenia, in the village of you into central (Baghramian, DD 40.19071 x Musa Ler. 44.36853, elev. 937m) + ÆO

Turkish denial of its complicity it the genocide SIDE TRIP: Baghramian - ´³Õñ³ÙÛ³Ý (founded began early, as Musa Lehr shows. When Franz 1947, pop. 1500) was named for General Werfel’s novel about the events of the resistance, Hovhannes (Ivan) Baghramian (1897-1982), “Forty Days of Musa Dagh”, was published in 1933, Hero of the Soviet Union. Baghramian, a it so infuriated the Turkish government that when Bolshevik in the Red Army, fought for Hollywood began a film version of the story, the Sovietization of Lori and Georgia, and became Turkish government pressured the State Commander of the First Armenian Cavalry Department to force MGM Studios to stop Brigade (1923–1931). In Kiev at the onset of production. A filmed version of the story was the German invasion, Baghramian successfully eventually made independently and was released led the 1941 winter retreat of the Red Army, theatrically in 1982. leading counter-offensives as Commander First Baltic front in Byelorussia and East Prussia The Museum inside the memorial includes (June–October 1944). historical information and artifacts from the original Musa Ler settlement in present-day He was made Marshall of the Soviet Union in  From Zvartnots, continue W for about 1.8 km to Turkey, as well as displays about the community 1955, one of only 4 Armenians to be awarded the Echmiadzin (merge L or W) turnoff; stay on across the highway. The cemetery outside the this highest position in the army. the highway bypass (merge R or NW) and monument is reserved for descendants of Musa continue for about 1.9 km to the first R exit onto Lehr, some of which fought in the 1991-1994 Otherwise the village is nondescript, though it a small road that heads N and in about 1.4 km Karabakh War. has a church and a S. Sarkis Shrine built in ends at the (Battle of Oshakan Pillar, DD 1997. 40.18968 x 44.30868, elev. 891m) + 4 Æ Every September descendents of survivors of the Genocide from Musaler in Western Armenia offer Overnight in Yerevan, Echmiadzin, hotels on SIDE TRIP: Battle of Oshakan Pillar - traditional Armenian Harisa (porridge) and dance the (M5) or in a village home (rustic, 5000 AMD ú߳ϳÝÇ ×³Ï³ï³Ù³ñïÇ Ñáõß³ëÛáõÝ is set in a in honor of the heroes of the Battle of Musaler. for B&B is fair); Food at mterks or kiosks in the bend in the road surrounded by farm fields. The tall pillar was commemorated in 1833 during the village; Springs in the village. OVERNIGHT state visit of the Russian Tsar Nicholas I. The On Aug 17, 1827 Russian regiments from There is a HOTEL in Musalehr village, just south of pillar commemorates the Battle of Oshakan,  From Baghramian backtrack to the (M5), turn R Sevastopol and Crimea engaged the Persians at the village taking a S road about 150 m west of during the Russo-Persian War which resulted in (W) and continue for about 1 km to where the the Battle of Oshakan, fighting in the fields the Musalehr monument road. The hotel is a the ceding of Eastern Armenia to the Russian eagle column and metal front gates are on the S around you. Russian victory broke the blockade converted private house and caters to locals on Empire. side of the highway, opening to an 900m and evicted Persian forces from Armavir and trysts or partying, so can be loud, but safe. Basic driveway to ZVARTNOTS (DD 40.15638 x then Yerevan, ending with the ceding of all of DBLs with shared and separate baths go for 7,000- Armavir marz was left in Persian hands after the 44.43998, elev. 892m) + 4 Æ O Eastern Armenia to Russia in the 1828 Treaty of 15,000 AMD. Treaty of Gulistan in 1813, which ceded Turkmanchai. southern Armenia and Karabakh to the ² ZVARTNOTS - ¼ì²ðÂÜàò (¼í³ñÃÝáó) SH FOOD & DRINK Russians. When fighting broke out again in When the Tsar announced his visit to his new MUSALEHR MONUMENT AND RESTAURANT (tel. 1827, the Persians blockaded Echmiadzin, For details about Zvartnots complex, see p. 48. domains in 1833, Echmiadzin clergy raised an 505655) is about 2 km W of Parakar, at the end of supporters of the Tsarist forces, and were obelisk at the site of battle in commemoration of the border road to Ptghunk village, on top of a hill. threatening to move on Tflis (Tbilisi) and retake the 1131 Russian soldiers who fell during the Hugely popular with weddings, birthdays and Karabakh. battle. The current monument was erected family celebrations, the restaurant offers later. spectacular views of the Ararat plain and Mt.

Ararat (on velar days), and reasonable prices Overnight in Yerevan, Echmiadzin, hotels on (2500-5000 AMD for full course meal). the (M5); Camping by the monument (no tree

cover, better elsewhere); Food in Echmiadzin. Other overnight in village home (rustic; 4000

AMD for B&B is quite fair, though hard to find); Â From the Oshakan Battle Monument, continue Springs in the village. W for about 1.3 km on the connector road that

ends at a T intersection; turn R (N) and continue

for about 450m to a L (W) turn that in about 1.4 Â From Ptghunk (Musalehr road), continue W on km enters (Mrgastan, DD 40.19907 x the (M5) for about 2.2 km to an intersection, 44.27992, elev. 907m) + 4 Æ O where a R (N) turn and another 3.5 km takes

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a canal and immediately after a field on the L SIDE TRIP: Mrgastan - Øñ·³ëï³Ý (till 1935 (N) with the remains of Shresh Blur on the W Hajjilar, pop. 500) has an impressive WWII end of (Shahumian, DD 40.21056 x monument on the side of the road as you enter 44.29153, elev. 923m) + 4 Æ O the village, to the R (S). SIDE TRIP: Shahumian - Þ³ÑáõÙÛ³Ý (till 1935 Mullah Dursun, pop. 450) is surrounded by fertile farmland that has nonetheless failed to sustain the old village—most villagers live in Yerevan or Russia, sending remittances to family members back home.

The village was renamed from its older Tatar name Mullah Dursun to Shahumian in honor of the leader of the 26 Commissars of the 1918 Commune. The commune started the Sovietization of the oil-rich city before being evicted by Dashnaks, arrested by the White Overnight in Yerevan, Echmiadzin or in a Army and imprisoned, liberated by the Red village home (rustic, 5000 AMD for B&B is fair); Another explanation for the name comes from Army, escaped to Krasnovodsk where they were Camping near the village (no tree cover); Food the Bible; the book of David. King David is captured again, and finally executed by a firing at mterks or kiosks in the village; Springs in called “the Just”, and he subjugated northern squad between the stations of Pereval and the village. tribes that inhabited the area of Western Akhcha-Kuyma. Armenia. Locals, who transferred the name S. Hovhannes Church is located behind the  From Shresh Blur, continue E through from their homeland, may have simply Culture Center (from the statue, take a R (N) at Shahumian village to the Echmiadzin Road (M3), continued a tradition begun during the reign of the school to the center, than two blocks to the turn L (N) and continue for about 1 km to the L David (1037-932 BCE)—about the time the culture center, then behind). The triple nave fork into central (Dasht, DD 40.22831x western Thraco-Phrygian tribes moved into the basilica is newly renovated, with new polished 44.30170, elev. 936m) + 4 Æ O region to begin the cross-fertilization that tufa stones clapped over the 1912 structure. resulted in the Armenian kingdom. SIDE TRIP: Dasht - ¸³ßï (founded 1926, pop. 400) is located at the top edge of Armavir marz, with rich irrigated fields to the west (“Dasht” means field) and barren land to the right of the Lower Hrazdan Canal.

Villagers who resettled the village were from Western Armenia, and they named much of their surrounding after their homeland, including the tall 1024.1m hill to the NE, which is the site of an important Bronze-Iron Age cyclopean Fortress (DD 40.23756 x 44.30075, elev. Shresh Blur is a Neolithic-Bronze Age Tell and 1029m). To get there, take the NE turn to the tomb field with stones from Hellenistic and cemetery at the top of the village and start medieval structures that once stood on the site. climbing the hill, heading towards the electric The blur is really a low brow about 50m N of the pylons. side of the road, in a field that covered with tall grass and wildflowers in the Spring and early Calling the site David Ardar (“David the Just”), Overnight in Yerevan, Echmiadzin or in a summer. The field alternates as a marshland in locals say they followed a tradition of their Whatever, the site is impressive for its size, if village home (rustic, 5000 AMD for B&B is fair); the spring, so watch as you step! ancestors, though none seem to know why. there are few structures remaining to show the Camping near the village (no tree cover); Food Most point to Sasuntsi Davit, the hero of an 8th grandeur of what once was. At the topmost at mterks or kiosks in the village; Springs in century epic poem about the wars against the western hill there is what seems at first glance the village. Egyptians and Arabs (Davit is a demi-god in just a pile of rocks, but on closer inspection Armenian literature, battling the forces of evil to prove to be stacked in an orderly fashion—these  From the north edge of Mrgastan, take the N save his homeland). The poem is believed to are the remains of a round tower which formed village road that courses north, east, then north have its origins in the Bronze Age as it uses the topmost defense. Once on top, survey the and east again for about 1.3 km to a bridge over figures from Armenia’s founding myths. entire valley—all of which was under the watch

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of soldiers to the king. Traces of walls can be and Byzantine Greeks who were each trying to (note the three step platform—a sign of Pagan detected running from this structure, showing subjugate (and assimilate) the Armenian Parthian origins). the extent of the large space. court. A supporter of union with the Greek Church, Overnight in Yerevan, Echmiadzin or in a Nerses seems to have added Byzantine forms to village home (rustic, 5000 AMD for B&B is fair); Tarkmanchats Church: the layout is a stretched Camping near the village (tree cover in cruciform with the addition of two small protruding orchards, ask first); Food at mterks or kiosks in apses on either side of the western hall. The the village; Springs in the village. result is a “Greek Cross” form that is unique in Armenian churches. The outlines of the small  From Dasht, take the western road for about 1 apses are clearly seen in the northern wall km to the SE edge of AIGESHAT (DD 40.23571 foundations. x 44.28924, elev. 947m) + 4 Æ O The church was damaged in the 10th c earthquake that destroyed Zvartnots, but was rebuilt and ² AIGESHAT - ²Ú¶ºÞ²î (²Û·»ß³ï) SH (till 1935 Hajighara) is located on the left bank of the sacked several times afterwards, finally Kasakh River, like Dasht with fertile irrigated fields succumbing to Timurid attacks in the early 15th c around and arid terrain to the E (the tall eastern and later earthquakes. Continue W on the main street and take the next L hill is the Adar Davit fortress in Dasht v.). The (an alley), where in about 25 m you will find the village has had a mixed Armenian/Kurdish 18th c S. Gevorg church, with a 1905 population for most of its recent history. commemorative plate over the S entry. The The now ruined vank was once a major monastery church uses finely hewn polished stone on its S and center for propagating the new language. end, with plastered tufa walls on the other sides. Located just 4 km S of Mesrop Mashtots’ burial shrine in Oshakan, and 8 km north of the Mother Cathedral in Echmiadzin, Tarkmanchats was a monastery, school and manuscript center.

Built in the mid 7th century, the church was—like Hripsimeh, Guyaneh and Zvartnots—a bastion of civilization in a wilderness of infidels, its outer defense meant to stave off dangerous resistance to the Armenian Church by Arabs and Byzantines alike.

The yard is filled with cemetery stones from the early Christina to medieval periods, and stones from the ruins of the church. There are also a The 7th c Tarkmanchats Vank is located in the number of ceramic pieces from the medieval NE of the village. From the SE corner (where you period lying about, the results of a 1980s arrived), take the eastern edge road about 500 m excavation and attempt to rebuild the church. The interior of this triple-nave basilica has a to an intersection. Left takes you to the center of wonderful example of the thatched roof style used the village and main square; instead go straight Backtrack to the central road, turn R (W) and in parish churches in the late medieval period into a narrow street and in about 50m on the L you continue for about 200m to the village’s “Red (15th-19th cc). Unable to afford the stone will see a gate and behind the substantial ruins of Square”, where an impressive WWII monument columns and slate roofs used by their forebears (or the vank. The gate is locked, but an old woman is set to the R (N), as well as the village mterk. replacing broken slate roofs), builders opted for across the street (ask for “Tatik” or ‘grandma’) has wooden supports made from trees imported from the key. Western Armenia or Lori (some being the actual columns used in Western Armenian churches Tarkmanchats (“Holy Translators”) is named for abandoned during forced exile) and an ingenious Mesrop Mashtots and Sahak Partev, credited with roofing made from thatched reeds and sod roofs. inventing the new and Attributed to the reign of the Catholicos Nerses III Each spring, these earthen roofs literally spring to translating the Bible into Armenian. The adoption the Builder, the church was built over a small life with grass and wildflowers, adding an of the Mashtots script secured Armenia’s cultural church that was either a Pagan temple or built enchanting aspect to their design. Sadly, S. identity and independence from Sassanid Persians using the ruins of the old temple in the 4th-5th cc

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Gevorg replaced its earth roof with corrugated religious prints, embroidered cloth and plastic the altar there is a small shrine with a celebrate the Bagratuni victory, and well before asbestos in Soviet times. bits of Jesus. gravestone to a now-forgotten saint and a small that, offerings to unknown gods. The current black khachkar. Locals still burn candles in the structure is built over a pre-Christian base. Overnight in Yerevan, Echmiadzin or in a village outdoor shrine and leave offerings on the stoop. home (rustic, 5000 AMD for B&B is fair); Camping Overnight in Yerevan, Echmiadzin, Oshakan- near the village (tree cover in orchards, ask first); Overnight in Yerevan, Echmiadzin, Oshakan- Ashtarak or in a village home (rustic, 5000 AMD Food at mterks or kiosks in the village; Springs in Ashtarak or in a village home (rustic, 5000 AMD for B&B is fair); Camping near the village the village. for B&B is fair); Camping near the village (Kasakh River, no shade); Food at mterks or (Kasakh River, no shade); Food at mterks or kiosks in the village; Springs in the village.  From central Aigeshat, take the western road kiosks in the village; Springs in the village. for about 1 km to a spot on the N side of the road (cross and follow the Kasakh River to just  From Amberd backtrack to the Aigeshat road after it bends away and heads W) on the E end intersection, cross over and continue S for about of (Amberd, DD 40.23809 x 44.27730, elev. 1.2 km to a fork, where the L (SE) fork leads in 938m) + 4 Æ O about 250 m to S. Stepanos in (Doghs, DD 40.22516 x 44.27401, elev. 927m) + 4 Æ O SIDE TRIP: Amberd - ²Ùμ»ñ¹ (till 1978 Frankanots, pop. 800) is set just off the Right SIDE TRIP: Doghs - ¸áÕë (pop. 600) overlooks bank of the Kasakh River, the source of its the Kasakh River, sharing farming fields with its fertile alluvial soil and countless generations of neighbor Amberd to the north. The small village human settlement on the upper Ararat Plain. The site is peaceful and strangely moving; open is reputedly the site of an important Bagratuni The small village is well laid out in the Soviet to the sky and filled with khachkars and Victory (894) by the forces of Smbat I (the style, though relics of the past point to a deeper khachkar fragments, pieces of ancient stones, Martyr) Bagratuni over those under the Emir history than the 19th century resettlement by and signs of the faithful. Apshin of At’rapatakan, effectively curtailing émigrés from Western Armenia. Arab control over Bagratuni lands. The victory Continue W and take the first R (N), entering accelerated the ascent of the Bagratuni clan, the village. The road naturally curves L (W) to ushering in the so-called Second Golden Age, reach the center. On your right is the WWII which reached its apogee under Smbat’s heirs  From central Doghs take the W road for about 2 monument, which has undergone some Ashot II the Iron (who cemented Bagratuni km to central AGHAVNATUN ( DD 40.23011 x renovation and additions, adding the portraits control by crushing the Arab army in 44.25053, elev. 921m) + 4 O and names of Karabakh warriors to those who ) and Ashot III the Merciful, who fell in the Great Patriotic War. began construction of the Bagratuni capital at ² AGHAVNATUN - ²Ô²ìܲîàôÜ Ani. Sadly, nothing of the battle remains, nary (²Õ³íݳïáõÝ) S (pop. 1000) was an important a marker to point t this important moment in settlement in , judging by the number of history. prehistoric artifacts found in and around the village. The huge tufa quarry W of the village was once covered with hundreds of Paleolithic-Bronze Age petroglyphs, most sadly cut away by quarry owners in a hurry to make a buck off the construction boom in Yerevan. Only in Armenia can you find 12,000 years of history sliced away with such abandon.

The spot before you (under some trees and The village must have been a major settlement surrounded by plowed farmland) is all that and religious center, judging by the large number remains of a once prosperous monastery, of prehistoric structures and shrines found here. Tovmas Arakeal (The Apostle Thomas). Built These include two Tukh Manuks, a 4th-10th sometime in the early Christian period (some century domed hall church and a 7th-14th trace it to the 9th c, the open air ruins are all cruciform church (both built on the foundations op

that are left of the large triple-nave version of pagan temples), Bronze Age tomb stones in the Just beyond and to the L (S), wedged between what may have been domed cruciform in the cemetery, a round tower to the north and a and behind two buildings are the fragmentary medieval period. All that remain are a stone petroglyph field outside the village. There is also remains of the small triple-nave Poghos Petros and earthen entry, submerged walls made from an Arabic “Gumbaz” or honey-comb tomb from the basilica, built over a Tukh Manuk in the 19th rubble stone and tufa blocks collected from the Doghs has the S. Stepanos church built in the medieval period. century in its last incarnation, but showing area, and the eloquent relics of local worship; 19th c over the ruins of ancient structures, signs of a much older structure. To the right of among them a medieval church built to

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Individually these are small sites (save the round Ashtarak”). From there you pass through the old original name for these structures is not actually tower which should be on everyone’s list of must- quarry, site of important petroglyphs. The tower is undated, but in good shape, known, though they were called dakhma or sees in Armavir, if as is suggested, it may be a suggesting to some it is not as old as its assumed dokhma (from Middle Persian dakhmag) in Zoroastrian tower), but taken together they form a Quarry Petroglyphs The stone quarry may origin in the late Bronze or Iron Age. Towers like Sassanid Iran, which originally denoted any place unique picture of about 6,000 years of history, all provide jobs for locals, but it unfortunately also this were common in the Urartian period; outposts for the dead. Built to expose the dead to the in one spot. means the destruction of the village’s 12,000 year and relay stations for communicating with the elements, their construction is absolutely unique, history: the quarry is the site of important capital of Tushpa some 265 km to the S. fitting for a device created to remove the polluting Paleolithic, chalcolithic (Copper) and early Bronze effects of a rotting body from the community. Age petroglyphs, most of which have been sliced away to create blocks for buildings in the “New “Towers of Silence” have an almost flat roof, with Yerevan”. the perimeter being slightly higher than the center. The roof is divided into three concentric rings: There are almost no traces left of the hundreds bodies of men are arranged around the outer ring, that once adorned the tufa mounds around you. women in a second circle, and children closest to The area is vast, stretching for 2 kilometers in the center. either direction, and a recent survey of petroglyphs has not been done (and not allowed The bodies are left in the open to decay or be now that the site has been “bought” by a local eaten by birds and animals. After a year or so, the oligarch), but a little exploration might yields a few sun-bleached bones are then collected into an trace designs on rock deposits that have not yet ossuary in the center of the tower, where lime is been cut away. For details about the destruction added to the bones so that they gradually

of Aghavnatun’s petroglyphs, see Resources:H disintegrate, the resulting material slowly washed Online, p. 92. through sand and cola filters as it seeps into the ground (in Zoroastrian belief, the body thus In the W of the village (As you arrive in the center Continue N and NE through the quarry, following returns to the sea from whence it came. For from Doghs, go S then W to the old section, then dusty trails used by trucks and earth moving Others say the tower is actually prehistoric in details about the Towers of Silence, see Resources to the NW outskirts—the cemetery is on a hill equipment; skirt around the field office and look origin, built in the Bronze or early Iron Age, when Online on page 92. above the village) is the old cemetery (DD for a dirt path that heads to the NW (ask at field fire worship or funerary towers like this were 40.23235 x 44.24269), which has a number of old office). The road rises to the base of a sharply common. Still others say its solid form and Backtrack to the village cemetery, then head to standing stones fallen on the ground, some rising hill, crowned by a rough stone round tower. remarkably good condition speaks to a later time, the next juncture, a fork in the road where a Bronze-Iron Age gravestones and a medieval perhaps the Sassanid era when the country was severe R back angle leaves the village and passes princely tomb. With a small khachkar on top of being pressured to adopt a radical form of the Iron Age Fortress to the right (N), and, in its five-step base. Nearby are the remains of Zoroastrianism. about 800m, to a L turn that ends in another 200m medieval walls and the small S. Karapet Tukh at the Karmravor Tukh Manuk. Manuk, plastered over in gray with white trim and a corrugated asbestos roof. The tiny space is nonetheless ancient, with its telltale gravestone features in the eastern altar, decorated with religious prints and offerings.

From the top and back of the cemetery you can see the ragged crest of the western Bronze-Iron Age Fortress hill to the W. The hill bares trace marks of its once-mighty cyclopean walls, whittled down over the millennia by industrious residents taking stones to use in barns and houses.

From the cemetery, take the deteriorating road that skirts the cemetery on its E side northwards Round Tower (DD 40.25754 x 44.22110, elev. and across the Hrazdan canal, taking the next L 1050m) is located about 6 NW of the village (7 as dirt path that skirts orchards and fields for a km or the rough roads course). The tower is made from so before turning sharply R (N), skirting the same stacked stone, some pieces quite large. It has one Whatever the origins, the shape and size is fields as it wends its way to a stone cutting narrow entrance that requires scrambling over remarkably like Zoroastrian funerary towers that The small shrine is what is left of a once complex. Navigate through the complex to the old fallen stone slabs and stooping to get through—a can be found throughout the Near East and into substantial church and monastery community, the Quarry road (ask for the “old stone tower” - ÑÇÝ great defensive design forcing all who enter to India. Translated into “Towers of Silence” by a trace remains of which line the side of the yard to ßñç³Ý³Ó¢ ³ßï³ñ³Ï - “hin sh’rjanadzev drop their weapons and bend over. member of the British Raj in India in 1832, the the S of the current shrine. Walk along the

Armavir Marz: page 59 of 94 - © 2008 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® perimeters of the yard and you can also detect the during late medieval raids and earthquakes. It in The gumbaz is a unique funerary tomb favored by used to extract liquids, part of the reduction outline of the inner walls that rung . turn is thought to have been an enlarged version Turcoman and Kurdish tribes, while borrowing its process in the refinement of metal, and as they of an early Christian building that had its origins in form from the Zoroastrian “towers of silence”. The cover large areas of rock, as star maps. These Located in the midst of fertile alluvial land that the pagan era. most famous Gumbaz is the Gol Gumbaz in India, were probably used to reduce liquids or as holders springs to life with a little water, the monastery at which has the largest unsupported domed space in in production of some sort, though they may have Karmravor is believed to have been first built in the world. Aghavnatun’s more humble version been parts of small altars. the 7th century, during the religious revival has space enough for three, the caskets for which initiated by Nerses III the Builder, who tried to are now gone. join the Armenian Church with the Greek Orthodox as a defense against marauding Arabs and rebellion in his own Nakharar corps.

The name comes from its original (lost) structure, which used red tufa (“Karmravor” = red in color). A couple of columns from the old structure lie in the grass near the current plastered structure. There is a “burning bush” south of the shrine, with torn bits of cloth tied to it branches; wishing totems from the faithful.

The current open-air building is quite large, with 7th-10th century khachkars embedded in its walls. There is also an interesting stone altar panel in the In springtime the site is covered with bright white, main apse, which was painted. The church is yellow and red wild flowers with deep green otherwise unadorned, though it was plastered and Finely made from carefully carved tufa. The undercover, lending a surreal effect to the ragged white washed in its day. The roof collapse in the building is nonetheless slipshod in its details, with tops of the eastern apse and northern walls that 20th century, and locals wait for the church in a simple graphic on the arched stone over the make up the current building. The black tufa walls Echmiadzin to cough up the funds to renovate the entry (which same say was taken from an early on the outer edges of the hill are believed to have building. Christian or Hellenistic temple at the site), and a been placed in the late Bronze or early Iron Age. bare carving of a horseman warrior on the inner wall. Another stone inside the chamber has an ansk (eye-hole) showing its Bronze Age origins as part of an astronomical observatory—wherefrom is anyone’s guess, though considering the other prehistoric sites nearby it may have come from The shrine may be the remains of a part of the around the village. original church, one of the side chapels, though its telltale grave stone is uniquely found in all Tukh Backtrack to the road fork, now turn L (S) on the Manuks. The shrine is the favored religious spot SW road exiting the village and in about 400 m on for the village; the yard is well maintained, the a low hill on the R (W) side of the road are the inner sanctuary is covered with religious prints and remains of the 9th-14th cc Tsiranavor church. embroidered cloth, the walls blacked with candle soot and it is swamped with worshippers at Tsiranavor is set on a triangular promontory that religious holidays throughout the year. forms a natural defense on the S and W approach to the village. Traces from the Bronze Age Backtrack to the village, and at the fork you used suggest the site was both military and religious in to get to Karmravor, now turn R (S) and in about origin. As you approach the site from the north, 50 m you reach the substantial walls of the 10th c Continue SE to the next juncture, turning L and you pass a smooth stones with “posner” (hollowed The 9th-14th c church stands at the apex of the S. Gevorg basilica. then immediately R onto a narrow street that in out cup-holes) in them. low hill, and was built from large blocks of tufa, about 700m leads to a house, with the Gumbaz many of which remain scattered on the hillside. The current building is an 18th-19th century Tomb (DD 40.22882 x 44.24504, elev. 920m) in a These are exactly like those found at Bronze Age The foundations, east apse and large portions of renovation of a much older building. Its triple- field in back. sites found throughout the country including the north and south walls remain, as do a number nave basilica form closely follows the outline of its Metsamor in Armavir marz and Agarak just N of of finely carved capitals, bases, columns and 10th century version, which was totally destroyed Aghavnatun. The holes are thought to have been decorative details.

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The well preserved ruins of an Urartian Fortress The tiny church was a domed cruciform type with a  From Aghavnatun (Tsiranavor) continue SW for (DD 40.21262 x 44.22468, elev. 918m) is in the squared western wall. Uniquely, entry is from the about 1.5 km to central ARAGATS (DD SW corner of the village, in a place called north, with two worn columns marking the 40.21730 x 44.23289, elev. 905m) + 4 O “Halaju”. To get there, as you face the multi- doorway. The altar space is decorated with a few story building NW of the center “square” take a L religious items, but is mostly bereft of offerings, (NW) and then an immediate L (SW) behind the ² ARAGATS - ²ð²¶²Ì (²ñ³·³Í) SH (pop. like its brother church S. Gevorg. Instead, 1200) is on the left bank of the Lower Hrazdan marzapet office onto a long street. Take the 1st R villagers seem to prefer the two Tukh Manuks, canal, the lifeline of its agricultural endeavors, (NW) and 2nd L (SW) onto a street that leads into which are covered with religious offerings and which stretch east and south of the village. Due to the orchards. The road peters into a path; take artwork. its population drop in the late 1990s, the western the path for about 50 m to the ruins. foothills are no longer cultivated, which provides a Outside the church there are few khachkars, stark contrast in dry months between the green including one fine sample made from orange tufa. farm fields and orchards and the desert scrub to It is judged to be 14th century, though the artwork the west. suggests it borrows heavily from early Christian iconography.

The horseshoe shaped apse was painted with blue background and is still in remarkably good shape. Its walls are covered with religious prints and embroidered cloth, with an especially refined cloth over the baptismal font.

The fortress-settlement was built over Bronze Age foundations, using the original stones to create outer walls, house foundations and streets. It is possible to trace the entire citadel, which

foundations are well preserved and excavated, Just W of the village’s “Red Square” are the including a couple of subterranean rooms. remains of S. Stepanos (DD 40.21712 x Overnight at Yerevan, Echmiadzin, hotel- 44.23183, elev. 922m), its 1870 dating pointing to Overnight at Yerevan, Echmiadzin, hotel- restaurants on the (M5), Oshakan-Ashtarak, or in a complete reconstruction that totally obscured the restaurants on the (M5), Oshakan-Ashtarak or in a a village home (rustic, 4000 AMD for B&B is fair); older medieval structure. Used for storage in village home (rustic, 4000 AMD for B&B is fair); Camping in near the village (orchard or no Soviet times, most of the thatch and earthen roof Camping near the village (no shade); Springs in shade, ask); Springs in the village. is now missing, though enough remains to show the village. how it worked. The roof still sprouts with grass and wildflowers each spring, turning to a burnt umber by summer. The village has an impressive WWII monument The large building is triple nave, made from finely (DD 40.21883 x 44.22821, elev. 934m), set above cut and polished basalt stone that was plastered the canal to the west. Ask for the best way to get on the inside with painted texture and a stenciled to the monument—the western village is a web of blue pattern on the inside walls. Evocatively, a meandering alleys and dead ends. It is worth it; sapling grows in the center of the hall and the for both the huge monument, the goddess Victory slate floor is covered with a thin layer of earth; holding both a shield and an olive branch in a grass sprouts in the cracks in the sanctuary floor. demure but defiant pose. The garden in front is lined with trees, and the view from the monument The support columns and roof trusses are massive; is spectacular—you can see the entire Echmiadzin locals say they were imported from Western plain including the mother cathedral and in the Armenia when the villagers first arrived. distance, Mt. Ararat.

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Located in the western side of the cemetery is which crowd plastic, wood and metal crosses, plaster with brickwork framing the windows and  From Aragats square, take the SE main road a small “shed” that covers a tiny but locally candelabras, statuettes, khachkars and painted the main portal. The brickwork may be for about 1.5 km to the north edge of important Tukh Manuk, the so-called S. Gevorg panels. The enter is taken up with candle tables medieval; it shows a distinctive Persian style. (Tsaghkalanj, DD 40.20352 x 44.23136, elev. church. The building has a large black marble coated with black soot. It is a strangely moving 893m) + 4 O slab advertising a local who paid for the feast of local fervor and simple taste. renovation (and which probably cost more than SIDE TRIP: Tsaghkalanj - ̳ÕϳɳÝç (till 1978 the renovation itself). Aghjaghala, pop. 450) is a small village meshed between the desert foothills west of the Lower Inside, the rough tufa walls and tin roof cover Hrazdan Canal and the fertile soils to the east. an earth floor and one lower foundation of the Once a mixed Kurdish-Armenian population, the original structure, or what appears to be a remaining villagers are almost all Armenian. foundation (it may be a Bronze Age grave slab). There is small khachkar in the center of the highly decorated interior.

The interior is massive for a village church, suggesting a very large parish at one time, or Overnight at Yerevan, Echmiadzin, hotel- the hubris of building too big. Still, it is one of restaurants on the (M5), Oshakan-Ashtarak or the tidiest and prettiest I have visited in in a village home (rustic, 4000 AMD for B&B is Armenia. The altar is whitewashed with fair); Camping in near the village (orchard or carvings and the altar has a nice painting of the no shade, ask); Springs in the village. Madonna and child.

 From Tsaghkalanj S end (bridge), continue SE By turning L (W) at the north edge of the road for about 1.6 km to the N central village you will reach the cemetery which is the intersection in (Samaghar, DD 40.18512 x oldest part of the village, and location for most Go back to the main road, turn R (S) and 44.24223, elev. 881m) + 4 O of the sties. continue to the next R (W) which enter s the village. Take the next R (N) and a little over SIDE TRIP: Samaghar - ê³Ù³Õ³ñ (also The village has Bronze Age tombs in the halfway up to the cemetery, on your R (E) there , pop. 800) is nestled between the cemetery, which connects to a slightly higher is a green painted door with a small cross on it. villages of Haitagh and Hovtamech on fertile hill with cyclopic stones to the SE that is the Knock and ask to see the Amnaprkich shrine alluvial soil. Nonetheless, like its neighbors, it spot for the Neolithic-Copper Age tell of (Tukh Manuk), which is located in a has lost most of its able bodied men to Russia Aghjaghala. The entire promontory, including subterranean space in their yard. and the west. the cemetery and the area to the NW was a part of the original site, and there are intriguing This is an ancient space; created in the original Samaghar has the impressive S. Harutiun circular “pockets” n the NW area, which was layer of the village’s settlement (Neolithic- church (DD 40.18509 x 44.24376, elev. taken over as a cattle breeding center in Soviet Chalcolithic Era). The shrine is made of the 888m), which is reached by turning L (E) at the times but which now lies empty. The pockets foundations for the original structure and a large point you arrived at in the directions above, and

seem man-made and bear future investigation. slab that protects the bones of the holy one stopping just over half way down the long block. The large chamber has a few rows of benches in underneath (a Christian martyr, according to The church is on the R, behind a house. Its roof the front, the rest empty. The roof is new, and The cemetery served countless generations of the local caretaker). The whole is protected by can be seen between the house and its beautifully done. It is protected by a second roof inhabitants, with an equal amount of historic plastered tufa walls and corrugated tin roofing. neighbor. of corrugated asbestos roofing. layers. Neolithic, Bronze Age and Hellenistic artifacts can be found below medieval remains What makes this otherwise nondescript chapel S. Harutiun is a triple nave basilica which was and modern graves. Little of it has been so interesting is its museum-like display of first mentioned in 13th century chronicles. The Overnight at Yerevan, Echmiadzin, hotel- excavated for obvious reasons (who want s to offerings from the thousands of pilgrims whop current building dates to the 19th century, using restaurants on the (M5), Oshakan-Ashtarak or dig up the bones of the recent dead just to see have made their way to the shrine to pray for stones from the original structure and replacing in a village home (rustic, 4000 AMD for B&B is the bones of the ancient deceased?). intercession: Shrouds and embroidered cloth the roof. The whole is handsomely covered with fair); Camping in near the village (orchard or crowd religious prints, paintings and drawings, no shade, ask); Springs in the village.

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the next road/path (about 50m), turn R (S) and Easter and the August feast day of the The village has a S. Astvatsatsin church just continue about 500m to the site. Assumption, the shrines are filled with  From Samaghar take the SW road for about east of the center (DD 40.16858 x 44.21630, thousands of locals who visit the site seeking 850m to a 3-way intersection in (Haitagh, DD elev. 873m). To get there, go east on the main The shrines are two small buildings in an area special intercession. 40.18206 x 44.23411, elev. 887m) + 4 O street from the square two blocks and turn R; that was once a monastery. Dated to the 14- the church is half a block S. The large church 18th cc, S. Karapet is actually much older; Overnight at Yerevan, Echmiadzin, hotel- SIDE TRIP: Haitagh - гÛï³Õ (also called was erected 1903-1909, using black tufa blocks. stones from the original 7th c vank line the side restaurants on the (M5), Oshakan-Ashtarak or Geghakert, pop. 800) has a mournful ruin of a The handsome building is locked and the of the yard outside the shrines. in a village home (rustic, 4000 AMD for B&B is church in the north of the village (DD 40.18206 neighbor with the key is not easily found—plan fair); Camping in near the village (orchard or x 44.23411, elev. 887m). To get there, from on waiting a bit before they find her. no shade, ask); Springs in the village. the 3-way intersection turn R (N) and go 1.5 blocks; the church is on the left. The 19th c  Backtrack to the (M5), turn R (E) and continue building was mostly destroyed in Soviet times, for about 3.7 km to the (Yugoloslav Aviator but locals say the roof only caved during the Monument, DD 40.16611 x 44.25707, elev. torrential rains of 2006. Both it and the village 881m) + 4 O are sad relics of better times, but idyllic nonetheless. SIDE TRIP: Yugoslav Aviator Monument - Ðñ³íëɳí³óÇ û¹³ãáõÝ»ñÇ ÑÇß³ï³ÏÇ Ñáõß³ñÓ³Ý commemorates 7 Yugoslav aviators who died in an airplane crash in December 1988 while delivering supplies for survivors of the Spitak earthquake.

The first shrine is in the best preserved building, and consists of an apse from the old vank with Back to the square, there are the bare a large sacred stone in the center. The shrine— suggestions of foundations for an old fort that like that at Tsaghkalanj—is a museum of sat behind the monument, easy to miss unless primitive religious art: embroidery, carvings, you know what to look for; long depressions in religious prints, painting and drawings crowd the ground. the walls and are draped over the sacred stones.

Overnight at Yerevan, Echmiadzin, hotel- restaurants on the (M5), Oshakan-Ashtarak or in a village home (rustic, 4000 AMD for B&B is fair); Camping in near the village (orchard or no shade, ask); Springs in the village. The crash was more or less expected as  From central Haitagh take the main road S and authorities’ ability to cope with the horrific SW for about 2.5 km to central (Arshaluis, DD destruction collapsed, and bungling bureaucratic 40.16882 x 44.21315, elev. 861m) + 4 O operations stymied efforts to deliver aid. Zvartnots was packed with transport planes SIDE TRIP: Arshaluis - ²ñß³ÉõÛë (till 1935 from 46 countries trying to deliver aid, the Kyorpalu, pop. 950) the name means “Dawn” in largest such effort since WWII. The crash came Armenian, and the village does face one of the a day after a Soviet military transport plane prettiest views of dawn, far off Mt. Ararat in the crashed at Leninakan (Giumri) airport, killing 9 SE. The village is notoriously home of a mafia crew members and 69 military personnel sent to head and one of the most bloodthirsty of aid in rescue work. Armenia’s officers in the Karabakh war Outside the village to the S and across the (reputedly personally responsible for the death (M5) are two Tukh Manuk shrines, the S. The second shrine is about 50m S of the first, The monument was built from the remains of of a number of Armenian soldiers) who Karapet Pilgrimage Site (DD 40.15253 x and is more primitive on the outside, but just as the airplane, and has the names and portraits of alternately terrorizes and patronizes his 44.21365, elev. 858m). To get there, take the stocked with religious offerings and artwork as the aviators, plus words of gratitude from the neighbors. Taronik road to the (M5), turn L (E) and go to the first. We are told that the Sunday after Armenian people.

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courses with thin slabs of tufa and bricks in the (Tsiatsin, DD 40.18682 x 44.26406, elev. their attacks, and they had overrun the area upper walls. The construction speaks to 885m) + 4 O when the was signed in June combining materials of different ages, and the 1918, returning Eastern Armenia only while church is in the oldest part of the village. The SIDE TRIP: Tsiatsan - ÌÇ³Í³Ý (till 1978 losing WWI with the was roof is missing its outer layer but the under Gerampa, pop. 600), which name means signed on October 30. trusses, columns and thatching are still in good “Rainbow”, has the bare ruins of the 18th-19th shape. c triple nave Astvatsatsin basilica (DD 40.18979 x 44.26819, elev. 896) in its far NE end (Take a R (E) at the triangle park at the village entry, 2nd L (N), immediate R (E), follow to the last street, L (N) then 3/4s N. The ruins are off an alley to R (E) ).

About 50 m behind the monument is a small mound, “Tasghkunk” or Mkhltapa Neolithic tell, with hundreds of pottery shards littering the ground. The tell is topped by a square tufa building, which is used as a Tukh Manuk, with appropriate sacred stone, religious art and burnt Overnight at Yerevan, Echmiadzin, hotel- candles. restaurants on the (M5), Oshakan-Ashtarak or In the village center there is a small fenced in in a village home (rustic, 4000 AMD for B&B is  Continue E on the (M5) for about 2 km to the park with a now closed café, some benches and fair); Camping in near the village (orchard or Tsaghkunk overpass exit, turn L (NW) and a headless Lenin statue. The statue shows no shade, ask); Springs in the village. continue for about 1 km to central (Tsaghkunk, Lenin ins his famous pose pointing to the DD 40.17753 x 44.26940, elev. 880m) + 4 O future. The villagers tried to destroy the statue  Backtrack to the Hovtamech-Tsaghkunk road, in the heady days of the Soviet collapse, but Back at the small park on the W end of the tun R (W) and go about 300m to central SIDE TRIP: Tsaghkunk - ̳ÕÏáõÝù (till 1946 finding the statue a bit too strong for hoes and village, there is a metal plaque commemorating (Hovtamech, DD 40.18386 x 44.25947, elev. Abdurahman, pop. 600) is a suburb of hammers, they settled for decapitating the body local guardsmen from Tsiatsin who fought 884m) + 4 O Echmiadzin, its villagers farming the and leaving the statue to the elements. against Turkish forces during the battles of surrounding alluvial plain. Sardarapat and Arshaluis, keeping the front SIDE TRIP: Hovtamech - Ðáíï³Ù»ç (once OVERNIGHT against Turkish attempts to break through to Mughanjik, pop. 700) has one of the most GOLDEN CITY HOTEL COMPLEX, Tsaghkunk Yerevan. Their efforts—along with those of interesting churches in the region; a massive Village (Echmiadzin Hwy), tel. 0231-56688, cell: countless individuals from Yerevan and triple-nave basilica made from brick and slab 094-556688, email: surrounding villages—routed the Turkish stone. [email protected], opened in late invasion of Eastern Armenia (decisively so after 2007. Amenities include heating, a/c, Internet the battles of Kharakilisa (Vanadzor) and Bash- connection (suites) and sauna. Largest suite Aparan), leading to Armenia’s declaration of can sleep up to 6 people. Prices are per room independence on May 28, 1918. The plaque with SGL/DBL/STE at 8700-10,000/12,000- loosely translates: 25,000/25,000-40,000 AMD. “Here in 1918 was organized a group of 200 Overnight at Yerevan, Echmiadzin, hotel- fighters led by Hovhannes Ter-Mkrchian. This restaurants on the (M5), Oshakan-Ashtarak or group fought on the front lines at the battles in a village home (rustic, 4000 AMD for B&B is of Sardarapat May 22 and Arshaluis on June fair); Camping in near the village (orchard or 15.” --Dept. for the Preservation of Historic no shade, ask); Springs in the village. Monuments

 From central Tsaghkunk take the NW road for Interestingly, there is no record in the history The village has a 19th century Astvatsatsin, about 800m to the edge of Hovtamech village books of a second battle at Arshaluis, but, uniquely built combining tufa blocks in its lower and a R (NE) road that leads in about 500m and though the Turks were routed at Sardarapat, past the Aghavnatun road into central Kharakilisa and Bash Aparan, they did not stop

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Located a half-block N of the village center, the The jars are an ingenious invention, inherited church ruins—with a missing roof and from Hellenistic temple traditions (Greek oracles deteriorating walls—is still one of the most used a temple’s acoustics to “whisper god’s evocative buildings in the marz. Perhaps it is its breath” and jars filled with water or sand to extraordinary construction of slabs and brick control vocal projection goes back to temples in plastered over with mud-based plaster, or the Egypt and Mycenae) and it was refined to great window frames that hang suspended in time, degree in Armenian churches. Through trial and open, closed, closed, open; or maybe it is the error, sand was poured or emptied from the jars artifacts that strew the inner landscape, the (which were set with their mouths facing the acoustic jars once set into the walls and filled sanctuary), until the desired balance was with sand to muffle the echo bounce in the reached. A couple of jars can be seen buried in cavernous space, but which now lie precariously the rubble at the top of the SW wall. exposed in the uppermost walls.

The church is slated to be renovated in the next It may be just seeing it on a cloudy spring day few years (locals who made good in Russia as with wildflowers springing from crevices and the donors), which will shore up the walls and re- sky’s mood matching the forlorn piles of rock, roof the building, but in all likelihood erase its wood and earth that once mightily called itself a unique character. This is probably the last place house of God. Whatever, this building stands you will put on your list of things to see in with austere, broken spirit in a landscape of Armenia, but try to make time to see it anyway. neglect, a ruin of memories and pride. And pick a cloudy, moody, spring day, when the buds of May shiver under the gray sky.

Overnight at Yerevan, Echmiadzin, hotel- restaurants on the (M5), Oshakan-Ashtarak or in a village home (rustic, 4000 AMD for B&B is fair); Camping in near the village (orchard or no shade, ask); Springs in the village.

 END OF TRIP 1

² ² ² ² ²

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inhabitants were among the first to forge copper are not). Russian border guards are not as easy to that housed a thriving religious, administrative and TRIP 2: CRADLE OF CIVILIZATION H H and bronze; and are the first recorded to discover convince as their Armenian counterparts to let you metal industrial complex (ca. 4000-3000 BCE). (Teghut) - MOKHRABLUR – (Artimet) - the properties of and successfully smelt iron. pass. We include the sites in the hopes that the The site is fenced in with a locked gate, but the ADABLUR – TARONIK/ METSAMOR – border restrictions will relax while this book is still fence is easy to get through with several breaches (Aknalich) – (Metsamor v.) – ARMAVIR – As Mesopotamian empires rose, they referred to a in print. Forewarned is forearmed. along its rim. Village boys from nearby Vacheh HAIKAVAN/OLD ARMAVIR – (Nor Artages) – rival power to the North, in the “Land where the tend calves in the yard and can show the way. (Nalbandian) – ARGISHTIKHINILI (NOR Mountains of the gods live”; a land rich in bronze, ARMAVIR) – SARDARAPAT (ARAKS) - Æ + 4 O (Vostanik) – (Hoktember) – (Bambakashat) gold and precious stones. Stay: Restaurants/Hotels & Motels on the (M5),

Armavir and Aknalich; guest houses/apts. in Echmiadzin and Armavir; village homes (rustic); camping near villages and Metsamor excavation (no tree cover). Eat: Restaurants & cafes on the (M5), Armavir, Aknalich, Sardarapat; mterks and kiosks in Armavir and villages. Springs: freshwater cold springs at villages, Metsamor excavation.

 From Echmiadzin’s Komitas Square, go S on the Makara road (M3) for about 2.8 km to an intersection where a left rough road angles back and in about 1.6 km passes on the L (W) a low

hill, the Neolithic tell of (Teghut, DD 40.144244 THE EXCAVATION x 44.28631, elev. 860m) The metal ore mined in this area was among of the Mokhrablur (which means “Ash Hill” or “Ash Bluff”-

purest in the world, and the natives shaped their -so noted because of the dark flecks of blackened SIDE TRIP: Teghut – î»Õáõï is a Copper-Early Trip 2 covers 17,000 years of history, starting at culture around it. They believed the technique for stones and pottery found in the site) lies among Bronze Age settlement dated between 8000-4000 the Paleolithic-Bronze Age settlements of forging metal was given to them from the drained marshland that makes up the area’s rich BCE, depending on the scientist involved. The Mokhrablur, Adablur and Metsamor, continuing to heavens, and they became the first recorded farmland. The excavation (“peghum” ä»ÕáõÙ), led the Iron Age/ Urartian city of Argishtikhinili, the metal objects found at the site have suggested the astronomers: they are earliest recorded to have by Professor Alishian, uncovered 11 meters (36 Orontid capitals of Old Armavir, Yervandashat and culture Teghut belongs to may be older (the so- sophisticated observatories, the earliest to create a feet) of earth before reaching the uppermost strata Bagaran. It ends at the site of the 1918 Battle of called Shulaveri-Shomu culture) than that calendar that divided the year into 12 segments of of the city's development. Sardarapat, which victory was instrumental in the accepted by western archeologists who are not time, they were among the first to devise the formation of the First Republic. The ethnographic compass, to envision the shape of the world as active in the area and rely on old data for refuting A total of 12 levels (“shertehr” ß»ñï»ñ) or museum at Sardarapat is arguably the best round, the first to design the signs of the zodiac. the claim with comments that frankly smack of generations (“sehrundtehr” ë»ñáõݹ»ñ) of the museum in the country. cultural racism. The site is covered over, but after city's history were uncovered before the Note: The sites are cultural treasures: they are rainfalls, trace shards and object appear on the excavation stopped. When you look at BACKGROUND one of a kind, priceless because of their rarity and slope. Mokhrablur, you are not looking at a hill, you are Armenia’s “Fertile Crescent” is located along the age, and unique in the history of the world. Don't looking at what remains of more than 6000 years Arax River, its tributaries a series of liquid muck them up. It is strictly forbidden to carry any  From Teghut, backtrack to the (M3), turn R (S) of continuous living on one spot. As each layer along a central Ararat spine. Within this valley lies object from the site away, including shards or and continue for about 1.9 km to a small hamlet was uncovered, bones, pottery, jewelry and a smaller crescent of land, still bearing the marks fragments of pottery and stone. Count yourself just before a railroad overpass. Turn R (W) to metallic artifacts were discovered, each older than of a vast marshland and forests that once covered very lucky you can touch them and feel the go behind the hamlet, and onto a dirt path into the previous. Several levels were covered with the entire valley floor. As you wander through this history, but put them back. You wouldn't take a the back fields, and in about 100 m at a fork in blackened heaps of bones and broken objects, area, you can spot sudden eruptions of the terrain, chunk of the Parthenon as a souvenir, and (most the road continue straight and follow an earthen indicating a battle that destroyed the city. Like hills that seem to appear from nowhere. They do of) you wouldn't cart off a Khachkar, so leave this canal for about 800 meters to a low hill 200 Troy, later generations rebuilt on top of the ruins not “fit” the contour of the land around you. These part of history in its place too, and let others see meters on the left (S) with the gate about 200 of their ancestors. are the remains of the first urban civilization to how important Armenia’s contribution to world m beyond on the far W side to the leave its imprint on the ancient world: they are the history is. MOKHRABLUR EXCAVATION (DD 40.12017 x One of the most remarkable things about sentinels of the Cradle of Civilization. 44.28050, elev. 843m) + 4 O Mokhrablur is its isolated location and the feeling The sites at Yervandashat and Bagaran are both on you get of discovering it for the first time. Shards Within the larger Cradle of Civilization, ancestral the border with Turkey, and off-limits to the casual ² MOKHRABLUR - ØàÊð²´Èàôð and fragments of pottery and bones litter the site, Armenians developed a smaller “fertile crescent”, visitor. Special permission and escort is required (ØáËñ³μÉáõñ) H H (“Ash Hill”), located 400 meters and one can scoop up history with each handful. where between 9000 and 7000 years ago, a series to gain entry. This permission is hard to get even E of the village of Vacheh (old name Griboyedov), The locals say that whenever there is a good rain, of cities appeared on the Ararat Valley plain: the if you are well connected (and impossible if you is an open-air excavation of a citadel and town

Armavir Marz: page 66 of 94 - © 2008 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® they can still find intact perfume flasks and pottery colors. The black unglazed pottery is among the blows inflicted by heavy weapons, their position loosened from the soil. first of its kind discovered in the ancient world. along the wall suggest they were either trapped, It and red pottery come from the earliest layers or herded together and killed en masse. [MAP] uncovered, ca. 6000-4000 BCE. It is at this strata where most of the jewelry and A. As you walk up towards the gate, you will pass precious items were discovered, indicating that a small swamp (“jahidj” ųÑÇ×), fed by spring whoever destroyed the city did not bother to water. This is what remains of the marshland raid it before burning it down. The middle that spread out in all directions around strata of excavation is the late 3rd to early 2nd Mokhrablur 6-8000 years ago. The marshland millennium BCE, and corresponds with the huge formed an excellent natural protective barrier, migration of Indo-Europeans into Asia Minor. as well as a reliable source of drinking water. An hypothesis has been made that these The excavation site itself is the fortified center charred bones and pottery are all that remain of of the town. It served as the religious and the last non Indo European group to inhabit the military stronghold for the city. As in other area; all layers above this charred one show cities of the era, townspeople lived outside the pottery designs and inscriptions like those used main walls. The entire city stretched to the in Anatolia, by Indo-European speaking people edge of the village behind you, holding up to F. There is an indentation on the far side of the pit. (remember that Armenian is an Indo-European 10,000 inhabitants (which was a large city in This is where the excavators discovered 12 language). those days). intact levels of the city, and located most of the archeological finds. While we were visiting, our H. The most unique feature of the excavation lies B. As you walk up the hill from the gate, look host scoured around and found from the central at the bottom of the pit: a 10-ton solid block of towards your left at the top of the hill, and you Geometric patterns on some fragments depict strata (3rd millennium BCE) of the excavation pure basalt, cut in the form of a rectangle can see an outline of a cyclopic wall (“pahrisp” wheat shafts, snakes and spiral designs, and wall a perfume flask, the bottom of a large column. The column is lying on its side, but was å³ñÇëå) that encircled the central fortified come from a later period, late 4th millennium earthen , and pieces of a beautiful green originally up right. Archeologists are unsure citadel in the 4th-3rd millennia. The wall was BCE. The spirals are unique in that they are stone the inhabitants used to create jewelry what its purpose was, and there are no made from foundations of blocks of stone joined together in the center into a “V” shape, from. This stone is not native to these parts, or inscriptions on its polished sides to give clues. averaging 1-2 tons each. These stones were depicting a ram head. Before the discovery of present day Armenia. They are commonly found Standing upright it would be as high as at the drug to Mokhrablur from sources 10-20 the observatory at Metsamor, they were in the Sinai, which may be the source of the top of the present mound, which suggests it was kilometers away. There is some thought that understand to be a symbol of a god, but are stones at Mokhrablur. a freestanding column in an open courtyard. the stones might actually be the middle level of now also believed to be depictions of Aries the The engineering feat of hand cutting and an older wall. Since excavation stopped before ram, one of the constellations of our galaxy. polishing a ten ton piece of stone 6000 years they could complete uncovering layers, the The glazed black pottery is 3rd millennium BCE, before our time is one thing to contemplate. actual age of the city is possible another 1000 but shows a sophisticated glazing process 6000 years ago they had not yet discovered the years older. If so, these stones were either predating any other found in Asia Minor. And use of iron, and copper was a poor substance drug on sleds from unheard of distances at that you hold these in your hands! Put them back for cutting stone. They had to use stone tools time, or--using a relic the excavators found at now, since they cannot leave the site. to wedge the piece free from its source, and the lower levels of the dig as a sign--they were special polishing stones to create the smooth among the first to use the . Unfired mud D. Next to the brick wall is an extension of the surface. brick was used to complete the walls above the same building, but it is divided into two smaller stone foundations, which accounts for the rooms. The pottery found here suggested it The real feat was in how it got there at all: the current mound shape of the site. was a living quarters. nearest sources of that type of basalt are in Mount Aragats or . It is 30 At the top of the mound you will arrive on a E. On the other side of the hilltop is a very large kilometers to the nearer of the two. Even using large flat area with a series of holes in it. These pit. This is where the bulk of the excavation , they would have had to build up a are the actual digs. occurred. All along the slopes of this pit rain roadbed through the marshland to get it there. continues to wash free both intact and One can only gaze and wonder what the need C. The first pit on your right is shallow. You can fragments of pottery. Though 20 feet deep, it is was to place a mammoth block of basalt in the see fired brick (“Aghius” ³ÕÇáõë) forming the not bottom most layer of the site, as can be G. Next to the indentation is a section of the pit center of a marshland, in a fortified citadel, in a top of an interior wall in a building constructed seen by comparing it with the surrounding where archeologists discovered at one of the city of 10,000 people. Basalt is a mineral rich around 4000 BCE. The rooms uncovered at landscape. If excavation resumes, it may well middle strata signs of a sudden and violent lava rock, and this stone is closely tied to the Mokhrablur were not large or high. Skeletons discover origins closer to the Period, destruction: there were hundreds of human metal industry in the Metsamor Kingdom. It is uncovered in the area show that the average just after the 13,600 BCE great flood that skeletal remains, heaped in piles by the cyclopic thought that the volcanic properties (molten height of inhabitants was 4-½ feet (1.35 m). All covered this part of the world. wall defenses, the pottery and metal fire) of the stone was considered a talisman about you are fragments of pottery, in different implements charred by fire. Skulls showed that against evil. The huge stone column may have many of the people had been killed by head

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been a protective idol worshipped by the gods: from the top of the highest mound at the inhabitants. Overnight at Echmiadzin and on the (M5) SW of the village in a bend in the Sevajur River excavation, you are in a perfect line between Highway near Metsamor or in a village home is an important Chalcolithic Tell, with Aragats and Ararat. I. The large round concrete building by the large (rustic, 4000 AMD for B&B is fair); Camping in the depressions in the hill showing the main walls. pit was built by a now defunct cooperative farm area (near village and site-no shade); Springs in [MAP] nearby. It is contemporary, but it covers a the area. Overnight at village home (rustic; 3000-4000 spring that is located within the walls of the AMD for B&B is fair); camping near village (flat THE EXCAVATION citadel, a source of sweet water during times of  From Mokhrablur, backtrack to the (M3), go S lands, no trees); springs in village. Adablur is located in a bend of the Kasakh river. siege. about 1.5 km to a R (W) turn into Built along the same lines as Mokhrablur, the (Vacheh/Griboyedov, DD 40.11055 x  From the NW edge of Vacheh continue NW for mound is actually the remains of a central fortified 44.27226, elev. 841m) + 4O about 2.9 km to the Aratashen road intersection citadel, surrounded by living quarters outside the in central Khorunk (before Lenughi, 1880 S. defensive walls. Unlike Mokhrablur there are no SIDE TRIP: Vacheh/Griboyedov - N’shan church), turn L (W) and go for another stone foundations for the wall, which was entirely ì³ã»/¶ñÇμáÛ»¹áí (till 1978 Aralikh Kyolanlu, 1.9 km and out of Khorunk to the bridge over made from unfired mud brick. then Griboyedov, then Vacheh, now Griboyedov the Kasakh River at ARATASHEN and the and Vacheh, pop. 1000) is just W of Mokhrablur, ADABLUR EXCAVATION (DD 40.12952 x The site is highest nearest the river, and has been a tidy village with greenhouses in just about 44.23308, elev. 847m) + 4 Æ O eroded by the relentless movement of the river everyone’s backyard, goring tomatoes and waters. The excavation began about the same cucumbers for a hungry Yerevan population. ² ARATASHEN - ²è²î²ÞºÜ (²é³ï³ß»Ý) time as Mokhrablur and ended in 1988, due to lack The village is named for the Russian traveler of funds (or as the director of Metsamor will tell H  (till 1978 Zeyva Haiyi) is just west of the and playwright Alexander Griboyedov, who’s Kasakh River on fertile alluvial land. Inside the you, it ended because Armenian archeologists “Woe from Wit” is considered the beginning of village there is a basilica church built in 1870. were discovering too much that rivaled the official ‘modern’ theatre in Russia, and is still one of the Soviet line on each ethnic group being no more country’s most popular farces. The play The village is also the site of the important equal than the others). premiered at the Persian governor palace in the ADABLUR – ²¸²´Èàôð (²¹³μÉáõñ) excavation Yerevan Fortress, which also marked the first which straddles the Kasakh River S of the village A. As soon as you cross the small bridge at the

performance of European theatre in Armenia. bridge. There is a café/shop just past the bridge site, you will be entering the territory of It is worth a visit to Vladik’s in nearby Vacheh where you can get pretty good fare for about Adablur. About 50 meters beyond are the village, since he has begun a house museum of Griboyedov first visited Armenia as an 1000-1500 AMD. The N dirt path immediately W excavation pits of burial sites. The city sorts, made up of artifacts discovered during the adventurer in 1819, following the conquest of of the bridge takes you to Adablur (which you can stretched From the edge of Aratashen behind excavation and thereafter. He is eager to show the Caspian and central regions in 1818, see from the bridge: A collection of low mounds you to the other side of the riverbed, about 5 his finds, the only artifacts not carted off to the returning as a diplomat for General Paskevich about 800 meters from the bridge). Drive/walk hectares in size. Because the large number of Hermitage in St. Petersburg. Even the Yerevan during the Russian-Persian war of 1828, which north on the dirt path 700 meters, and stop at the skeletons found at the burial site, they believe museum (Republic Square) does not display resulted in the ceding of all Armenian lands to metal bridge over a diverted river channel. the population was larger than Mokhrablur much of anything found at Mokhrablur. Vladik’s the Empire. Griboyedov was chief negotiator on Adablur will be on your right, about 100 meters (about 6000 people). Most of the archeological is your only chance. the Treaty of Turkmanchai that concluded the NE. discoveries are housed at the Hermitage in St.

war, though he was murdered in 1829 along Petersburg and in the warehouse of the Yerevan There are a few items, but among them are a with the rest of the Russian staff for the Tsar’s Guide: Adablur is not a working excavation and it History Museum. There were large numbers of small clay lion figure from the 6th layer (ca. Embassy in , by an enraged mob that has no museum. The site is simple enough there burial relics (jewelry of copper, bronze, agate 3500 BCE); a fragment with a fluted top around thought he was there to instigate an invasion. is no need for a guide, but if you want to talk to a and amber; burial pots and urns) discovered in a central “pipe”, which is thought to be from a The return of his body to Russia was local who knows a few facts, ask for Vartan the burial area. musical instrument; a carpet needle shaped immortalized by Pushkin, who met the funeral Terterian, who lives in the village, on the street from a bone (they found fragments of woven party at Pushkin Pass in Lori marz. just past the Kasakh river bridge, 5th house on B. Go up onto the hill, and you will see three large cloth and carpets at the site), a miniature clay your right. oval pits. These were the primary excavation wheel from a small cart (not toys, these are The village is the home of Vladik, who worked digs. They uncovered brick walls much like found at other sites in Armenia, duplicates of on the Mokhrablur excavation and who has a BACKGROUND those at Mokhrablur. There are fewer life-size carts used to bury royalty for their trip sort of home museum of artifacts from the site. Adablur is an open-air excavation of a city fragments of pottery at the site, probably due to to the other world), an amulet ring carved from When not tending fields he welcomes visitors straddling the Kasakh river (ca. 5000-3000 BCE). it's proximity to the village. You can find many animal teeth, one of 1000’s found in the and offer to show folks around the site (he What remains of the site of Adablur are the shards of paper-thin obsidian, which are the excavation at all levels. speaks Armenian and Russian). To get to his outlines of the city walls, excavated rooms and remains of carvings done by the inhabitants of

house, from the village center, turn R at the buildings, and fragments of pottery and obsidian the site. The ring is interesting for its pentagon shape of street just E of Culture Center. Go past the shavings. The river has shifted over millennia, the center hole, each point in the pentagon school and WW II monument to where the road dividing the once unified city into two sub-sites. Some are Armenian “ heads”, you can possibly standing for one of the five known stops at a “T” intersection. Turn R. Vladik’s On the edge of Aratashen Village, Adablur sits in a spot them by their distinct pointed shapes. planets at that time, the central space house is the 4th on the left, #46, Shirvanzadeh direct path between the ancient homes of the Others are larger and flatter along the top edge. representing the known p. Obsidian, though brittle, can be carved into very

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delicate forms, and many of these fragments major nesting area for Storks, which build their door. It is not until the Early are transparent, suggesting they were part of huge nests on power line poles and rooftops Iron Age that Metsamor took 1. Cyclopic Walls. an early “glass industry”, used for jewelry, throughout the village. 2. Old Citadel and full advantage of the high- amulets, bowls, cups and boxes. The round dwellings grade iron ore it had been excavation revealed tens of thousands of these On the west edge of the village an asphalt road 3. Temple site selling to others. obsidian pieces, as well as a few intact bowls turn S and follows a canal / irrigation channel for 4. Foundry and jewelry pieces. about 1.5 km to the METSAMOR EXCAVATION 5. Upper Citadel The observatory predates 6. Observatory all other known observatories (DD 40.12560 x 44.18814, elev. 870m). 7. Outer walls C. From the top of the hill you can clearly see the 8. Mediaeval Precinct in the ancient world-- that is, bend of the river and the way it has changed its ² METSAMOR EXCAVATION - غ̲ØàðÆ observatories that course over time. From circling the citadel, it geometrically divided the äºÔàôØ (ػͳÙáñÇ å»ÕáõÙ) H H ("black swamp" now winds on the east side of the mound, and or "black quicksand"), open 10-5, 1000 AMD, is heavens into constellations cuts through its center. The citadel was roughly not to be mistaken for the nuclear power plant that and assigned fixed positions twice its current size. Vartan told us that each lies nearby. The excavation is located on the and symbolic design. Until Spring when the river swells, it washes more western fringes of the village of Taronik, and is the discovery of Metsamor it layers from the site, and reveals more obsidian, named after the Metsamor (Sevajur) River that had been widely accepted pottery fragments and bones. once flowed through the site but which moved long that the Babylonians were ago, though it still replenishes the area’s the first astronomers. The They have yet to find the pot of gold reputed to be marshlands. observatory at Metsamor buried in the area. Pot of gold?! Well, every predates the Babylonian site has to have some mystery about it… It Once a working excavation with a museum, kingdom by 2000 years, and seems the villagers think there are more Metsamor no longer conducts active digs, its last contains the first recorded treasures to be found under the mound. Who director, Emma Khanzatian (d 2007), an eccentric example of dividing the year knows? Maybe you'll be the lucky one to find it and fearless leader who single-handedly saved the into 12 sections. Using an (and then turn it over to the archeology site from certain end in the tumultuous 1990s, early form of geometry, the Metsamor River provided both transportation and department, right?) forced into retirement a couple of years ago inhabitants of Metsamor were able to create both a the first irrigation source recorded in Armenia. without a replacement. The resulting vacuum calendar and envision the curve of the earth.

D. While you're on top of the hill, draw that further threatens the site, a sure candidate for Excavations began at Metsamor in 1965 and have imaginary line between Aragats and Ararat. World Heritage Status if ever there was one in shown strata of occupancy going back to the You're just about exactly halfway between Armenia; Metsamor is the site of habitation from Neolithic period (7,000-5,000 BCE), but the most them. At night during the solstices you can roughly 7000 BCE (its city status is 5000 BCE) into outstanding features of the site were constructed draw exact East, West, North and South the modern age, the location of the oldest known during the early, middle and late Bronze Ages coordinates from this location to navigational smelting of Bronze and Iron, and location of a (4000-2,000 BCE). Inscriptions found within the stars. Now, of course you can do this from any 2800 BCE astronomical observatory. excavation go back as far as the Neolithic period, point on earth, but carvings found at Mokhrablur and a sophisticated pictograph form of writing was and especially at Metsamor show the earliest The site is a 15 minute drive from Echmiadzin, and developed as early as 2000-1800 BCE. The recordings of this kind of plotting the stars. for some of the deepest history you will find in “Metsamor Inscriptions” have a likeness to later Armenia, it is a must-see on your trip. Take in the scripts, including the Mashtots' alphabet. Overnight at in a village home (rustic, 4000 AMD 4th c church at Echmiadzin for Christian for B&B is fair); Camping in the area (near village perspective, and then come to Metsamor for a look The excavation has uncovered a large metal and site- no shade); Food at village cafe; Springs at how people in the 5000 years before Christianity industry, including a foundry with 2 kinds of blast in the area. behaved. furnaces (brick and in-ground). Metal processing

at Metsamor was among the most sophisticated of  From Aratashen, continue W on the main road BACKGROUND COMPLEX its kind at that time: the foundry extracted and out of the village for about 3.8 km to the far The complex sits on top of the volcanic hill is about The complex you are in was a large urban processed high-grade gold, copper, several types west side of the next village, 10.5 hectares in size, but the entire city is believed settlement which occupied an area of 10.5 of bronze, manganese, zinc, strychnine, mercury TARONIK/METSAMOR (DD 40.13252 x to have covered 200 hectares at its greatest hectares and consisted of a citadel within the inner and iron. Metsamor’s processed metal was 44.19812, elev. 849m) 4 + O extent, housing up to 50,000 people (making it a cyclopic stone walls and an observatory at the coveted by all nearby cultures, and found its way metropolis in the Bronze Age). Nearby spring-fed farthest point from the museum, on the edge of to Egypt, Central Asia and China. The iron ² TARONIK/METSAMOR EXCAVATION - marshes and lakes suggest the extent of the the rocky hill (ca. 5th-4th millennium BCE). The smelting process was not advanced in Metsamor, î²ðàÜÆÎ/غ̲ØàðÆ äºÔàôØ (î³ñáÝÇÏ/ wildlife that covered the area up to the bases of fortress further encompassed a series of oval probably due to the vast quantities of pure bronze Mount Aragats and Ararat. The area was rich in shaped dwellings with adjacent out buildings. By ػͳÙáñÇ å»ÕáõÙ) (once Zeyva Turkakan, pop. alloys at hand, and Metsamor primarily mined and

H H water, mineral and hunting resources at the time the Late Bronze Age a more pronounced class 965)  are both located on the Metsamor sold iron ore to neighboring cultures which took of the development of Metsamor. The nearby system had occurred, shown by burial artifacts (Sevajur) River, the fertile soil yielding crops and better advantage of its properties. One of the uncovered at royal tombs. artifacts by the bushel full. The village is also a early examples of R&D not getting past the lab

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Metsamor rivaled in size the largest cities in the By the early Iron Age Metsamor was one of the During the Middle Bronze Period (late 3rd to mid world at that time. “royal” towns, an administrative-political and Ground Floor 2nd millennium BCE) there was a surge of urban cultural center in the Ararat Valley. The ground floor shows the chronological growth and a development of complex Another 70-80 hectares (170-200 acres) next to development of the site from the Neolithic through architectural forms which extended the boundaries the Necropolis comprises the main burial site, the Middle Ages, and includes artifacts and of the settlement to the area below the hill. where thousands of people were buried in simple materials discovered at each layer of the Basically, that area within the inner cyclopic walls graves and large burial mounds. Once uncovered, excavation, including examples of the metal are the older city and that beyond represent newer these graves revealed an underlying layer of working process used at Metsamor. One section is areas. By the 11th c. BCE the central city crushed-stone which further revealed large devoted to the observatory and explains the occupied the lowlands stretching to Lake Akna, and mausoleums built from red tufa, encircled by a astronomical significance of the site. covered 100 hectares (247 acres). series of cromlechs ( of arched stone). What the excavators uncovered in the process was In the entry lobby are two maps, one showing the both a history of Metsamor’s burial rituals and a current excavation site (citadel and central city), concern for hiding wealthy tombs. Like the the other the extent of the Ancestral Armenian Pharaohs buried in the Valley of the Kings, culture in the Armenian plateau during the Early, Metsamor’s rulers tried to thwart grave robbers by Middle and Late Bronze Ages. hiding the locations of royal tombs. Fortunately

the grave robbers at Metsamor were not as lucky Take the steps to the ground floor, and turn to as those in Egypt, and the Mausoleums revealed By looking at the uncovered layers you can see your left. intact and richly adorned burial vaults, giving us an traces of wars, devastation and fire. At a recent excellent glimpse into the traditions for preparing excavation a mass of human bones were 1st Gallery, Ground Floor the body for the afterlife. uncovered below the walls, piled one upon the other. The bodies were dumped by survivors of a 1. The first display is a strata-map, showing the Among the artifacts uncovered in the royal tombs cataclysmic event (a siege or plague). various layers of the excavation, and samples of were evidences of great wealth: gold, silver and artifacts (pottery) found in each layer. bronze jewelry and adornments were found over A complete destruction of the city is dated to the and next to the body, which was placed in a sitting Urartian conquest in the 8th c BCE. Immediately A. Early Bronze Age: A feature of this period is fetal position in a large stone sarcophagus (early afterwards, the Urartian conquerors rebuilt the black lacquered ceramic, the earliest of its kind Metsamor) or lying in a casket (late Metsamor). site, including the cyclopean walls. Metsamor discovered in Asia Minor. The technique for The bodies were laid out with their feet oriented became a subject city and later, a regional center creating the glaze required a sophisticated towards the East, so they could greet the sun and for the Armenian kings. knowledge of both firing technique and minerals follow it to the afterlife in the West. Included in to create the even glaze. the vaults were the skeletal remains of horses, The city continued to be inhabited through the cattle, domesticated dogs and --presumed Hellenic period and the Middle Ages to a sudden B. Middle Bronze Age: Reddish ceramic with to be servants or slaves to the deceased. The end in the 17th c CE. Excavations from these detailed designs showing wheat and spiral sacrifice of slaves and animals was a common periods can still be seen on the hilltop and its designs evolved along with a glazing process feature of burial rituals during the Bronze and eastern slope, as well as by glazed earthenware over the black pottery. It is in this period that a Early Iron Age, as they were considered necessary and luxury items now housed in the museum. hierarchic social structure evolved, along with a to assist their master in the next life. In addition Special among these are coins excavated from the preoccupation with elaborate ornamented to jewelry, pottery and tools, excavators Medieval period: they include the coin of Levon II design. The pottery and design details resemble discovered pots filled with grape and pear piths, (1270-1289), coins from the Khulavites mines those found on Mycenaean ceramics discovered grains, wine and oil. The fruit piths are a minted in (16th c) and West European 13- at Santorini and elsewhere, but are older. prominent part of the food offerings, and 14th cc coins. considered a necessary part of the funeral rites. C. Late Bronze Age: The designs and patterns THE MUSEUM are closer to those found throughout Asia Minor. Other funeral objects discovered were rare The Museum of History and Archeology at You could very well be looking at pottery from amethyst bowls, ornamented wooden caskets with Metsamor was opened in 1968. It is the repository Greece, Egypt and , which incorporated inlaid covers, glazed ceramic perfume bottles, and of more than 22,000 items, almost all uncovered designs like that used at Metsamor. ornaments of gold, silver and semiprecious stones, at the site. and paste decorated with traditional mythological 2. The second display holds samples of weapons scenes typical of local art traditions. Egyptian, and jewelry from the Early and Middle Bronze Overview: The museum is laid out on three levels. Central Asian and Babylonian objects were also Age. About 500 meters southeast of the citadel is the Our self-tour walks you through the museum in found at the site, indicating that from earliest of location of the traditional necropolis (town the order tour guides follow. times Metsamor was on the crossroads of travel 3. In this display you can see some early examples dwellings), which covered an additional 100 routes spanning the Ararat plain and linking Asia of chinaware and pottery from the Late Bronze hectares of land. With a population of 50,000, [MAP] Minor with the North Caucasus and Central Asia. Age. China is an extremely difficult process to

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master, and though the pieces you see are not the Indo-European name “Ararat” and “Armeni” sculptures, fire , pintader seals for as delicate or refined as Ming Dynasty become predominant names, though “Hai” was Inner illustrations: stamping scared bread loaves and amulets. masterpieces, they are amazing engineering used by the Hittites. Our guide suggested that A. In the picture on the wall, you will see both a samples nonetheless, predating the Ming by though “Hai” and “Armen” were both names for schematic of the observatory, and a series of 3000 years. the same people, the word “Hai” is in fact an older illustrations showing how they charted the stars name, as etymologists believe it originated in the and created the first known calendar of time, a 4. Jewelry display. Ararat and Geghama mountains and migrated with division of the year into twelve segments. Ancestral Armenians into Anatolia and Asia Minor. 5. Jewelry display. B. The small lines on the wheel illustration show 3 observation points on the actual wheel 6. In the large display opposite cases 2-5, there is inscription uncovered at the observatory. Near a large display showing pottery jugs and vases, these points were found star symbols and other implements found in the excavation. (representations of Aries, and Taurus), and Most are from the Late bronze to early iron age. a compass. The jugs and pottery held wine, wheat, seeds and oil, and include serving and storage vessels. C. Explorations of the first observatory site show that by ca. 3000 BCE it was possible to observe 7. In the same display hangs an Incense burner the brightest star in the Northern sky, Sirius. with lion head hanging in the center of the Sirius lies in the constellation Canis Major, and 12. Ringing the stairwell and along the walls of the display. It has a bronze chain and bells, and is very close to earth, only about 8.6 light years upstairs gallery are large wine and oil pots, jugs was used in the temple (Late Bronze Age). The away. and vases, all found from the Early to Middle lion head is an often-used feature in royal and Bronze Age (5000-3000 BCE). Note the design worship designs, and there were lions and tigers 2nd Gallery, Ground Floor of the snakes and mountain rams on the that inhabited this area at that time. There are 9. The displays in this gallery focus on the Early surfaces. The snakes were considered life- still a few leopards inhabiting Armenian Iron Age, when the culture at Metsamor giving creatures, and were worshipped as gods. wilderness areas, but the lion was the preferred advanced to a high level. The first display The rams were at first thought to be god symbol. shows both implements used to smelt refined images, but are now known to also represent metals, and examples of finished products. the constellation Aries in the horoscope, a The Name The term Metsamor is a more recent power associated with the home, the hearth, name. The inhabitants of the city did not use a Jewelry made of tin and Silver is included. The and sustenance. writing system as we do. They used a pictograph inhabitants of Metsamor were able to extract system of drawings that represented ideas and The Observatory Map gold from other ores, and there is even The Greek constellation and word for Aries did not events, but did not spell out names as we do. We evidence they fabricated synthetic gold from arise until the 2nd millennium BCE. If you have do not know what these people called themselves, 8. At the end of the first exhibition hall is a display other substances. read the history of Armenia so far, remember but since Ancestral Armenia was a bridge between featuring the observatory uncovered at the importance of the first two letters “AR”. Asia and Europe we do know what other cultures Metsamor (4th-3rd millennium BCE) and its use 10. The next display focuses on the Urartian period Etymologists believe the word Aries is not in fact at the time called the people living in this area. in the study of the cosmos. of development, and you will notice in the Greek, but actually came from this area. farthest case several stone carvings that The development of astronomical study at emulate the male genitalia. The Urartians 13. If you turn left as you enter the gallery from Metsamor grew from a need by the inhabitants believed that infertile women who worshipped the stairwell, you will see a large bronze object to orient themselves in space and time. They and touched (one can only wonder how) these in the center of the wall. This is an enlargement had a specific need to understand where the phallus idols would become fruitful and multiply. of one of the prize possessions of the museum, spirit went in the afterlife, to understand the a Babylonian frog weight carved from agate and conception of time, and to fix their position in 11. There is a very black stone, called gisher, onyx. space. This is a far cry from earlier people’s (“night” stone, also obsidian) in the display who stared at the heavens and simply wondered which was used for its medical properties. On the surface of the frog, in Babylonian at it all: this was a sacred study, so to speak, cuneiform is written “I, Burna Burarishi, am a to actually fix the culture in the heavens, and to Upstairs son of King Buran Burarishi”. The weight of the predict its influence on their destiny. The second floor is divided into two sections. The original (in the basement vault) is 8 grams, 62 first displays materials in trades common at decigrams. It was used as jewelry, a The means of orienting oneself are the Metsamor: stone, jewelry, textiles and leather, measurement and a standard of weight. beginning steps of social group development, carpet weaving, ceramics, plus the glazed Found in one of the royal tombs around the bluish-green decorative tiles that ornamented neck of a woman, it is the only example of its and are usually very simple. For the people at the palace and temple halls. The second section kind in the world. The Persians called them the “Ermani”, the Metsamor, it was typical to orient themselves, is devoted to the temple excavation and Babylonians “Arata”, the Assyrians “Nairi” . Later their culture, and their place in time and space by East and South. religious worship. Included are idols, phallus

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14. Before you reach the back wall of the gallery, Northern trade routes between Asia and Asia during excavation. The skeleton lying on its side is 4th case: two belt decoration pieces in the shape notice a portable fire hearth, divided into thirds. Minor. a wealthy slaveholder, the heads along the side his of lions, made from bronze with silver overlay. The fire hearths were at first thought to be slaves. The most important part of the body was Swastika detail on the hindquarters of the lions. portable stoves, and the History Museum in 15. In the right display case on the back wall are understood to be the head, and Urartian burial The overlay process was probably created in the Yerevan still ascribes them to that purpose. temple worship artifacts uncovered at Metsamor rites included cutting the heads from the bodies of Armenian plateau, as this is one of the earliest (Early to Late Bronze Age). Among these are slaves when their master died, preserving their examples found in Asia minor (3rd millennium several small carved stones, including one with “identity” so the deceased master could recognize BCE) the design of a swastika on one side and them when he went to the other world. another with the head of a dog carved on the back side (the example at left is carved with a The Gold Rooms human deity). The swastika carving is one of There are several cases in two rooms in the gold the oldest sacred symbols in the world, and vault. The craftsmanship and detail of the work cave drawings in the Geghama Mountains dating was intricate and sometimes minuscule: take care back to the Neolithic times (7000 BCE) include to examine the pieces, and then imagine people them. It is unfortunate the Nazis corrupted creating such fine work more than 4000 years ago. their meaning in our times, as the swastika is a strong link between the Indo-Europeans and the 1st Gold Room indigenous cultures of ancient times. In 1st case: Gold jewelry pieces discovered in Armenia examples of swastikas include swirling mausoleums, featuring a gold necklace with arms to both the right and left. Not a crooked intricate design, 3rd-2nd millennium BCE. cross, as some people call them, they are actually one of the first drawings of movement, 2nd case: Hollow cylinder made from sardonic (a showing a swirling power burning in the red-veined onyx), 4th millennium BCE. heavens. The swastika was the primary symbol assigned to the gods for several thousand years. 3rd case: actual frog weight carved from agate and onyx, 4th-3rd millennium BCE. 16. Included in the temple display is an illustration of the temple interior from the late 4th case: jewelry made from gold and carnelian (a Bronze Age. The worship of the bull was semi-precious quartz gem). Gold medallions Store Room included in the deities, but it had a strong and imbedded with cruciform design, 2nd millennium IF you’re really lucky, the guides may allow you negative position in the Metsamor pantheon: it BCE. into the store room, where 20,000 additional was also used for placing curses. It is not until artifacts are kept. One of the most rare and later, during the Urartian period, that it became 5th case: royal seal made from carnelian, gold beautiful of them is kept there; a reddish brown a symbol of strength and fortitude. clasps, 3rd millennium BCE. ceramic lamp with seven fluted openings on the top: the openings represent the sun, moon and the 17. Behind the central back wall, standing by the 6th case: gold jewelry, including hairpin and five known constellations at that time. stairwell, is a large stone idol (11th-9th BCE). medallion, 3rd-2nd millennium BCE. Yup, it’s a phallus. THE EXCAVATION Second Gold Room 18. The other half of the gallery is devoted to tools 1st case: amber necklaces, 4th-3rd millennium [MAP] and implements used in the various trades in BCE. 1. Cyclopic Walls The cyclopic walls date from Metsamor. The last display holds examples of the 2nd millennium BCE, fortified during the the types of stones and minerals mined and 2nd case: “matsuk” animal heads with eyes made Urartian Era. The stone blocks average 20 tons used at the foundry. from lapis lazuli, 4th millennium BCE. Lapis in weight, more than 3 meters thick. Lazuli was considered more valuable than gold Lower Level in the ancient world, and was prized for its 2. Old Citadel and round dwellings The Old The lower level holds the most valuable medicinal and cosmetic, as well as artistic value. citadel was the first to be excavated at the site, archeological finds in the museum: a funerary and is the probably location of heretofore crypt from the Urartu period and a collection of 3rd case: amber jewelry and small agate stone undiscovered archives. When uncovered, the It is now thought that they were also temple gold, silver, semi-precious stones, amber and called “achki ulunk” (eye beads), 4th-3rd area showed a complex of round house worship hearths, where rare myrrh, paste jewelry, as well as other examples millennium BCE. These are considered to be dwellings, temples and palace structures, dating frankincense and other incense were burned in discovered at burial sites in the excavation. protective eyes warding off evil, and are still back to the 4th millennium BCE. worship to the local deities. Some of the popular amulets worn around the necks of incense discovered at Metsamor has its origins 19. Just at the bottom of the stairs is a newborns in Armenia. in India and China, verifying early use of the replication of an Urartu burial site. It positions the artifacts and skeletons exactly as they were found

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Within the altar spaces are numerous bowls set The First Astronomers? into the temple floor and a complex series of clay holders. Very little is understood about the It should be no surprise to anyone who knows something of Armenia's history that astronomy is such an important ritual that occurred here, though animal part of the national character. Sun symbols, signs of the zodiac, and ancient calendars predominated in the region sacrifice was a part. The holders probably held while the rest of the world was just coming around, culturally speaking. Egypt and China were still untamed rare oil mixed with myrrh and frankincense, wilderness areas when the first cosmic symbols began appearing on the side of the Geghama Mountain Range purified wine, wheat and fruit (seeds were around 10,000 BCE. discovered in some of the shallow bowls). At Metsamor (ca 5000 BCE), one of the oldest observatories in the world can be found. It sits on the southern edge 4. Foundry The foundry dates from the Early of the excavated city, a promontory of red volcanic rocks that juts out like the mast of a great ship into the heavens. Bronze Age (ca. 4000 BCE), though recent digs in Between 2800 and 2500 BCE at least three observatory platforms were carved from the rocks. The Metsamor the area uncovered signs of metal processing as observatory is an open book of ancient astronomy and sacred geometry. For the average visitor the carvings are early as 5000 BCE. The complex of smelting indecipherable messages. With Elma Parsamian, the first to unlock the secrets of the Metsamor observatory as a furnaces and molds around you date from the mid guide, the world of the first astronomers comes alive. Bronze to Early Iron Age (3000-2000 BCE). The complex becomes more astounding the more you "The Metsamorians were a trade culture," Parsamian explains. "For trade, you have to have astronomy, to know how to navigate.” The numerous inscriptions found at Metsamor puzzled excavators, as indecipherable as they walk through it. Several huge underground caves were elaborate. Hundreds of small circular bowls were carved on the rock surfaces, connected by thin troughs or were uncovered that are thought to have been indented lines. But one stood out. It is an odd shaped design that was a mystery to the excavators of the site, until storehouses for base metal, as well as a Professor Parsamian discovered it was a key component to the large observatory complex. By taking a modern for winter months. Stretching just below and compass and placing it on the carving, Parsamian found that it pointed due North, South and East. It was one of around the Upper Citadel, the foundries processed the first compasses used in Ancient times. Copper, Bronze, Iron, Mercury, Manganese, Strychnine, Zinc and gold. The first iron in the Another carving on the platforms shows four stars inside a trapezium. The imaginary end point of a line dissecting ancient world was probably forged here, though it the trapezium matches the location of star which gave rise to Egyptian, Babylonian and ancient Armenian religious was not considered as important as bronze, giving worship. the jump on development to the Babylonians. Sketch the locations of the Jupiter moons over several nights and you're repeating an experiment Galileo did in 5. Upper Citadel The Upper citadel is covered 1610. Chart a star over several years and you repeat an experiment the Metsamorians did almost 5000 years ago. Inscriptions on the observatory rock include a trapezium over, except for a few pits. The main building By using the trapezium carving and a 5000 year stellar calendar, Parsamian discovered that the primary star which (top left) showing the location of the star Sirius ca. 2800- was the city palace or main temple. The inner matched the coordinates of its end point was the star Sirius, the brightest star in our galaxy. 2500 BCE; early Haikassian script, and a map/calendar (center row, second from left). walls ring the site on three sides, with the "Sirius is most probably the star worshipped by the ancient inhabitants of Metsamor," Parsamian explains. foundries just below. "Between 2800 and 2600 BCE Sirius could have been observed from Metsamor in the rising rays of the sun. It is En route to the Temple Site, just below the old possible that, like the ancient Egyptians, the inhabitants of Metsamor related the first appearance of Sirius with the THE OBSERVATORY citadel, is an incline on the stone hill. Carved into opening of the year." (DD 40.1285 x 44.1856, elev. 857m) the hill is an intricate and large (almost 20 meters long) design. The design resembles a rudimentary Those wanting to plot the same event from Metsamor will have to wait a while. Sirius now appears in the winter map, and the shape of the rock resembles the sky, while the inhabitants of Metsamor observed it in the summer. (Because of the earth's rotation within the Ararat side of Mt. Aragats in miniature. rotation of the Milky Way galaxy, stars change their positions over time. In another 4000 years or so Sirius will Inscriptions also include several early Haikassian again appear as it is plotted on the Metsamor stellar map). script symbols (though carved at Metsamor much earlier, ca. 3000 BCE), and forms one of the basis' The Metsamorians also left behind a calendar divided into twelve months, and made allowances for the leap year. for establishing the old Armenian script during the Like the Egyptian calendar which had 365 days, every four years the Metsamorians had to shift Sirius' rising from Bronze Age around Metsamor. one day of the month to the next.

3. Temple site Three temples were uncovered "There is so much I found in 1966," Parsamian adds, "and so much we do not know. We believe they worshipped the star Sirius, but how? I like to imagine there was a procession of people holding lights. These carved holes and are covered by a metal structure. Vandals throughout the complex may have been filled with oil and lit. Just imagine what it must have looked like with all have desecrated most of the altars you see. those little fires going all over the steps of the observatory. Like a little constellation down on earth." Luckily they are only three of an entire complex that was preserved by recovering them after the Parsamian has a special regard for Metsamor, since it was she who uncovered many of the mysteries of the initial dig in 1967. The temples are unlike any inscriptions on the observatory, answers which explained other finds uncovered at the excavation site. "When you other uncovered in Western Asia and the walk over this ancient place, you can use your imagination to complete the picture. I love to visit Metsamor since I The observatory rivals the discoveries at the Ancient world, indicating a very distinct culture feel I am returning to the ancients." at Metsamor during the 2nd-1st millennia. citadel for importance, substantiating theories on the birthplace of the zodiac and origins of astronomy in the ancient world. Dated ca. 2800- 2500 BCE, when the zodiac is figured to have been

Armavir Marz: page 73 of 94 - © 2008 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® concluded, the observatory was also the primary 7. Outer walls The outer walls are 2nd-1st Once the haunt of local Soviet bigwigs manning religious site and navigation center for the millennium BCE, laid during Urartian times. The the nuclear reactors and running things in Metsamor culture. walls mark the greatest extent of the ancient Hoktemberian (Armavir City), the tiny nature SIDE TRIP: Metsamor village (pop. 1000) was citadel, though the necropolis and graveyard area (10 hectares) was privatized and converted purpose-built for the nearby Nuclear Plant, and extend for another 200 hectares into nearby into rendezvous restaurant-hotels and a houses the families of plant workers. The Taronik Village. Hangestian Goti (rest area) for locals. It is reactor is located some 5 km N of the village. crowded on weekend, but deserted on weekdays 8. Mediaeval Precinct The Medieval Precinct was (save the tête-à-têtes) and is for Armavir a The reactor is controversial for several of located on top of the old citadel. The discovery of pretty spot. reasons, not least of which is its design, which is medieval coins and artifacts there prompted the a later form of the infamous Chernobyl nuclear 1967 excavation. Foundations were removed to Overnight, Food & Drink reactor in , which had a meltdown in uncover the older layers of the city. 1.5 kilometers from the Metsamor excavation 1988 and was forced to close, but not before turnoff, going west (away from Taronik and killing or causing severe illness to tens of towards Armavir City), is “LICH MOTEL”, with 7 thousands of Ukrainians and Europeans. As a bright and comfortable units, a lake to call your result of this, Armenia’s fledgling Green Party own and one of the best views of Ararat we’ve led protests against the reactor in Armenia, seen, unspoiled by urban growth. They have prompting authorities to shut it down. cable TV, an International telephone connection, central heat and air conditioning, hot showers, Built in the 1970s (going online in 1976 and and the freshest food at their pier restaurant. 1977) to supply the country’s burgeoning Hundreds of shallow bowls are carved onto the At 10,000 AMD a room (double occupancy), electric needs (and as a response to the severe surfaces of three large rocks that rise above the they beat anything in Yerevan (note they also drop in the waters of Lake Sevan due to surrounding river delta. The use of the bowls are rent by the hour). hydroelectric power production), the reactor unknown, many are linked by equally shallow promoted the growth of industry and population "canals" (we're talking real small here, no more SETRAKI RESTAURANT/MOTEL, tel. 093- in the 1980s while easing the reliance on than a few inches in diameter for the bowls). They 555652, is located on Aknalich, 700 meters hydroelectricity which the country had depended might have been filled with oil that was lit at night from Lake Motel entrance (turn left on side on since the 1930s. as part of a ritual celebration (if so, they would street at a rock wall, go 200 meters, green wire look very much like a 'bowl of the universe' on gate is on left). 10 cottages in wooded area, no After the 1988 Spitak earthquake, ongoing earth), or they may have been used to smelt and phone, but swimming pool, hot water, air protests on the Karabakh issue joined with forge metal in another sort of ritual. Imagination conditioning and central heat, beautiful walks Green protests against the nuclear reactor for allows you to decide for yourself. through wooded area up to edge of lake. mass demonstrations against the reactor, and 20,000 AMD for two people, meals included. both units were shut down in 1989. This victory against an entrenched Soviet government A new RESTAURANT-MOTEL is outside the E side morphed into widespread anti-Azeri of the lake and caters to revelers by the hour or demonstrations and Karabakh’s declaration of night, depending on how busy they are (popular independence, precipitating the undeclared war with local oligarchs). 6500 AMD per person in between Azerbaijan and Armenia. dining cottage with bedroom in back. Rock figures are considered both directional pictures and an The resulting blockades by Turkey and early form of writing text. On the (M5) highway the #7 RESTAURANT Azerbaijan created severe energy shortages in MOTEL offers rooms at 4000-5000 AMD (per 5 Armenia with widespread blackouts and panic. Overnight at Aknalich (see next entry), hours or overnight). Attempts to send Russian gas to replace that Echmiadzin, Yerevan or village home (rustic, 4000 lost from Azerbaijan largely failed as Azeri AMD for B&B is fair); Camping in the area (near Camping partisans in Georgia repeatedly blew up gas village or excavation—no shade); Food at village The lake has a HANGESTIAN GOTI, next to the pipelines in 1993-1995. mterks and Armavir Highway cafe; Springs in the Cottages and restaurant. 2000-3000 AMD per area. day. In the face of this, the new government decided You need to be very careful while exploring the to reopen the plant in 1993, the first time any observatory site, since the inscriptions are carved  Backtrack to Taronik and turn L (W) at the Springs are in villages and at the lake. decommissioned reactor was restarted. on basalt and tufa, and have already been eroded intersection. Continue W for about 2 km on that Protests by European states and the US against by exposure to the elements since uncovered in road as it winds to (Aknalich, DD 40.14174 x  From Aknalich dam take the W road about 4 km the effort had little effect, especially since none 1967. For more information on the site, see The 44.17226, elev. 852m) 4 + Æ O and through Aknalich village to the (M5) and R offered to replace the lost energy with new First Astronomers? (W) turn that takes you in about 1.8 km to the supplies, or to guarantee sage gas supply. SIDE TRIP: Aknalich - ²ÏݳÉÇ× was made by main entrance to (Metsamor village, DD Finally, the US and Russia contributed funds to damming the waters of the Metsamor River. 40.14348 x 44.10828, elev. 848m) 4 + Æ O reinforce the reactors against earth tremors.

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government). The result is an empty, rusting town shipped to Russia via the rail line built in the 19th Unless otherwise noted, local numbers require the On October 26, 1996 unit 2 was brought back that barely gets by on remittances sent from c. (0237) prefix if calling long distance, or + (374) on line, generating 400Mw or 60% of the relatives living in Russia and the west, and spin off 237 prefix if calling from abroad. country’s power in 1996. By 1999 that was trade from the marz’ agricultural economy. Bearings Armavir is extremely easy to get down to 40%. Hydroelectric plants in Siunik around in. There is one main street, the (M5) IN AND OUT generate another 25% and small hydropower Background Despite is sad modern exterior, the highway, and it divides the town into two parts.

stations and gas generators supply the rest. town has a storied history, though in different To the North is the new town, with its wide streets, ByB Train

Enough is generated that—in a strange twist of locations. It started as an important obsidian and railroad station, hotel, cafes, shops and banks, and ElektrichkaB and Gnatsk trains connect Armavir fate—Armenia now sells energy to Turkey, trade center (ca. 600-1000 BCE), as a few artifacts apartment blocks. To the far NE lies the park and with Yerevan and Giumri, originating at the Central which continues to blockade the land border. from this early period show. There was a sports stadium. This makes up the largest part of Station in Yerevan, arriving at the main station in settlement at the site of the town, but the large the town. To the south of the highway and rail line Armavir. The Elektrichka leaves Yerevan every The reactor will be decommissioned by 2016, Armavir Hill was the town’s first location (7 km S), is morning, returning in the afternoon. Tickets at when a new reactor, generating 1000Mw will go when the Urartu King Argishti built a city on the 703-3650 AMD makes this the cheapest way to online. Turkey is already seeking to buy a hill. Later, Orontid (Yervanduni) kings established SITES town. The gnatsk continues to Tbilisi, with a portion of the power. their capital on the same hill, where it lasted until Despite the fact all sites worth seeing are outside connecting train to Batumi (and ferries to the the 4th c BCE, when they moved their seat to of town, I would not discount it as a place to crash Ukraine and Istanbul). Overnight at Aknalich motels, Armavir Highway Yervandashat. The town on the hill thrived if you are going to explore the western marz in

motel, in a village home (rustic, 4000 AMD for through Romans, Arshakuni and Persian periods detail, or are heading NW to Aragatsotn and ByB Bus, Minivan B&B is fair); Camping in the area; Food at until its demise in the 15th c at the hands of the Shirak. Buses and minivans (marshrutni taxis) connect motels; Springs in the area. Timurids. The population scattered (some Armavir with Yerevan, Echmiadzin, Ashtarak, Talin, remained on the hill until the 19th c), and 16th- Within 45 minutes drive of Armavir you can hit all and villages in the marz. The bus station is on the  From Metsamor village continue W on the (M5) 18th c Safavid Iranians governed the region from sites in the marz, with those near the town (M5) or at the train station, ask. for about 6.5 km to the train station in central Sardari Castle just SW of the town. The current including the Argishtikhinili and Old Armavir ARMAVIR CITY (HOKTEMBERIAN) (DD site was a speck in the desert when the Russians excavations, Sardari Castle, Sardarapat Buses Buses to Armavir from Yerevan depart from 40.14695 x 44.03278, elev. 866m) + 4 Æ O came to town and built the first railroad, placing a Battlefield and Museum, Yervandashat and the corner of Sarian and Mashtots pts (350 AMD) switching station in the settlement. This literally Bagaran and the entire western desert. and Central Bus Station on Isahakian (850 AMD) ² ARMAVIR - ²ðزìÆð (²ñÙ³íÇñ) (till 1993 put the town on the map, as Sardarapat. Armavir is within 1 hour drive from all of southern and arrive at the Armavir bus stop. Buses from Hoktemberian, till 1935 Sardarapat, pop. 12,000) Aragatsotn, and 90 minutes from Giumri on the Armavir include to Echmiadzin (250 AMD).

H  is the capital of Armavir marz, and once a western road. It is 20 minutes to Echmiadzin. large industrial, canning and textile center for the Minivans (Marshrutni taxis) leave from the bus country. The collapse of Soviet Armenia, the MAP stop on the (M5) or at the train station. Ask. Karabakh war and the Turkish blockade dealt the Minivans do not have a set schedule; they leave city a severe blow, from which it has not even when they are full and generally run once or twice begun to recover. 1. Armenian Restaurant/Hotel a day to outlying villages. Armavir Minivans 2. WWII Monument connect to Yerevan (400 AMD, Central bus 3. Rail Station, Bus Station station), Echmiadzin (200 AMD), Sardarapat (100 4. Hotel AMD), Nalbandian/Old Armavir (150 AMD), 5. Converse Bank Haikavan/Argishtikhinili (200 AMD), Hoktemberian 6. Tickets Agency village/Sardari Castle (100 AMD), 7. Trade Hall Yervandashat/Bagaran (300 AMD), Karakert (250 8. Shuka/GUM AMD). 9. College 10. Srjaran - khorovats By Taxi Taxis are more expensive but the most convenient way to travel (you decide when you go,

PRACTICALITIES a and you can stop along the way). If you split the And as Sardarapat the then village became the price between 2 or more travelers, it is cheaper. focus of Turkish attempts to capture Yerevan, after Area Code: 237 Armavir call taxis at tel. 61081 succeeding in Alexandropol (Giumri). Their failure Long Distance: 0237 + local number at the Battle of Sardarapat, followed by routes at From abroad: + (374) 237+ local number From Yerevan, just about any taxi will take you Vanadzor and Aparan, insured the regions freedom Mobile Phones: 091 Armentel, 093/094 Viva Cell to Armavir at 100-150 AMD per kilometer. Taxis and a fledging First Republic. International callers: Armentel + (374) 91 + should charge 5000-7500 AMD for up to four number, Viva Cell + (374) 93 or 94 + local passengers. You can also order a taxi by phone From an all time high population of 46,900, the The village became a town in Soviet times, number (5000-6000 AMD). Most Yerevan taxi services city has barely 12,000 (though officials refuse to growing off of increasing farming (canning), cotton provide this service, but we used Kalina (tel 010- budge from an inflated 26,000, fearing their loss of production (textiles) and light industry, its goods 555-333). Note even the best can go bad tax income and influence in the central

Armavir Marz: page 75 of 94 - © 2008 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® overnight, ask around when you arrive for best Telephone directory information – 109 SRJARANS/CAFES are on the west end of the town taxi service. on the (M5). Cheap eats with sandwiches at 500- Phone, telegraphs 1000 AMD and khorovats at 1500 AMD per shish. By Car Armavir is on the (M5) highway, which Armavir is covered by both Armentel and VivaCell $-$$ leads to Echmiadzin (25 km) and Yerevan (50 km) (28 Hanrapetutian) mobile services. International to the E, and Sardarapat (10 km) and the Turkish calls can be made at the Central Post Office, See ² ² ² ² ² border (19 km) to the SW. The (M5) in Armavir HayPost site for list (http://www.haypost.am/). connects to the south and southeast (H15) leading The post office has trunk line phone service, sells to Haikavan/Argishtikhinili (9 km) and Markara (21 phone cards and can deliver telegraphs.  From central Armavir cross over the rail tracks km). To the NW it connects to the (H17) which to the S side of town, head south two blocks, leads to Karakert (25 km) and the (M9), which Internet turn R, then L at the next block to the SE road leads to Bagaran (19 km) in the south, and to the ARMINCO has a local representative in Armavir at for about 6 km to the main intersection in the N Talin (14 km) and the (M1) highway that leads N 7 Hanrapetutian p. (Manuk Simonyan), tel. 61452, village of HAIKAVAN (DD 40.08852 x to Giumri (53 km). From Armavir it is 50 km to 44.04557, 861m). Merge L and in about 400 m 61456, e-mail: [email protected] . They offer Yerevan, 25 km to Echmiadzin and 92 km to prepaid card service. take the R (SW) Nor Artages road for about 1.5 Giumri. to the OLD ARMAVIR excavation (DD There is an Internet café in the town, and Internet 40.07918 x 43. 03445, elev. 937m) 4 + O Activity Center in the schools. OVERNIGHT ² HAIKAVAN / OLD ARMAVIR - Bank, Exchange HOKTEMBER HOTEL is located on the main street вÚβì²Ü / ÐÆÜ ²ðزìÆð (гÛϳí³Ý / ÐÇÝ

ATM, Money wires and credit card advances can be (M5), almost opposite the railway station. The ²ñÙ³íÇñ) H H (till 1935 Ghrdghuli/Kuru-Kili, pop. done at banks; hotel houses refugees from the Karabakh war, but 1350) The Hellenistic city of Old Armavir sites on a ARMECONOMBANK, 8 Spandarian there are rooms in a basic way (water included, tall hill just SW of the villages of Haikavan and ARDSHININVESTBANK, 17 Hanrapetutian not much else) at 4000 AMD for DBL. Armavir. CONVERSE BANK, 22a Yerevanian INECOBANK, 17 Hanrapetutian ARMAVIR RESTAURANT/HOTEL is one block north UNIBANK, 29/5 Hanrapetutian of the (M5) opposite a park. The hotel caters to weddings and tête-à-têtes with decent rooms with Shopping hot water, TV and clean linen at 5000-20,000 There are a number of shops in town, including AMD. mterks, souvenirs and clothing stores. Most are on Hanrapetutian p and its side streets. The Boarding/Apartment Shuka and Yarmaka are on the first street to the R This is a distinct possibility, though done

W of the railway station. informally, there are no organized rentals. Ask AROUND around when you arrive. Apartments are mostly in

Film,B etc. the north side of the tracks, houses on the south On foot is easy enough in the center, with the Film can be bought at film developers and mterks. side. 5000 AMD for B&B in clean space is fair. Be entire stretch from rail station to the Stadium only Batteries are suspect, bring your own. sure there is water and power. 2 km. If you want to hike, it is not that far to regional sites like Sardari Castle (7 km), PharmacyB FOOD AND DRINK Sardarapat (10 km), Argishtikhinili (8 km) and Old Apotekas (Armenian: deghatuner) can be found in Armavir (10 km). the center of town on Nairian p. There are a couple of khorovats Grills, Srjarans and cafes, and the restaurant at Armavir Hotel. Old Armavir is often mistaken for Armavir Village Taxis Armavir has plenty of taxis, throughout the Hospital,B Polyclinic Food can also be bought at Mterks (food shops) to the NE and the city of Armavir further N. The town but most in the center. The service is good, The hospital and clinic are on the first street to the around town. city was once Hoktemberian, a name locals still the drivers knowledgeable (but few speak English). right, just west of the railway station. For a insist on calling the once thriving, now derelict The general rate is 600 AMD around town. medical emergency, contact your lodging venue or $ = 2000 AMD or less for meal w/o drinks Soviet era town. go to Yerevan. $$= 2000-3000 AMD COMMUNICATION, ETC. Hospital: tel. 62640 $$$ = 3000 AMD or more Complicating things further are two hills to the west of Old Armavir, both of which share much of Fire – 101 ARMAVIR RESTAURANT-HOTEL, one block north of the same history and were inhabited at the same Police – 102, 67112 the (M5) using the street before the railway time. These are (first) the Urartian city of Ambulance service – 103 station, has Armenian, khorovats menu. Meals Argishtikhinili (p. 79), which lies barely 3 km Rescue Hot Line - 118 can go for as much as 4000 AMD. $-$$$ away, and (second) the battlefield of Sardarapat, Gas emergency service – 104 just 4 km further west. Trunk Line – 107

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Background The Byzantine conquest of the region lasted barely The hill you are at was inhabited from the 6th 20 years before the Seljuks devastated the city, millennium BCE, when the tall hill was surrounded followed by a short revival in the late 12th-early by the Arax River and a delta of water that created 13th cc and the early Mongol era, before a period a thick bog; a near perfect natural defense against of long decline began. Still inhabited (perhaps as enemy incursions. Excavated artifacts from the a defensive spot only for surrounding villages), the period include obsidian tools, bronze pieces and hill was finally abandoned sometime during the pottery fragments. The Bronze Age was 17th-18th c, during the protracted Persian-Turkish particularly rich in finds, and was the source of the wars. cyclopean wall stones. What remains now are traces of massive wall In the 8th c BCE Urartians established their formations, foundations for the large Hellenistic administrative center at the next hill to the west Temple, a few capitals and carved stones, and (see Argishtikhinili), but Armavir continued to be thousands of pottery shards, including a few inhabited, as an Urartian possession. The hill, and glazed pottery fragments from the medieval the city, really came into its own in the wake of period. Alexander the Great's march through Persia, when When the Arax River shifted southwards, the Several paths wind their way up the hill, take the in 331 BCE the Armenian Orontid Kings asserted capital lost its best defense and was moved by to The Site easiest for you to navigate to the top. As you walk their independence from the Persian Achaemenid Artashat in 189 BCE. Armavir continued to be an It is a steep climb up the massive hill; you’ll need up, the outline of the wall defenses become Empire, and Armavir was chosen as their seat of important (if defenseless) religious and trade 20-30 minutes and sturdy . At the bottom clearer, their massive blocks of basalt stone power. center, apparently continuously inhabited there is a large cemetery that wraps three sides of carefully hewn and laid in layers. throughout the Artashesian and Arshakuni the hill. Dynasties of Armenian kings, the early Christian Though evidence of Bronze Age inhabitation have era (though curiously, the only Christian structures been found, including mammoth blocks of stone, found are at the bottom of the pagan temple hill), surviving structures date to the 8th c when until its capture by Arabs in 645. Urartians built on this and the next hill to the west. The layout, foundations and overall design bear a The history of the city becomes confused with that striking likeness to the Urartian layer at Metsamor, of the region and the other two hills in the area; suggesting both sites were utilitarian settlements Argishtikhinili and the hill called Sardarabad. The in support of nearby administrative cities (in this temple was converted to a church in the early case, Argishtikhinili). Metsamor was a center for Christian era, with some 5th c evidence of forging Iron in Urartian times, while Armavir alteration. Objects dating to the Arab, Bagratuni seemed dedicated to crafts and arts. and Seljuk eras have been found at the site, suggesting some kind of habitation, though all vestiges of administrative importance were by now gone, royal favor placed on the Bagratuni capital at Ani.

The entire hilltop was refortified with cyclopic stones, and topped with a citadel, the necropolis Part way up the hill there is a metal cross over a growing to perhaps 10,000 inhabitants. Clay large cave shrine, replete with icons and candles. tablets from this period, written in Elamite and The cave may have at one time connected to the recounting episodes of the Sumerian hill top by a series of tunnels (not unusual for the epic have been found, showing a developed level period). What remains are rock walls bedecked of contact between the Orontids and the Near with religious fragments, embroidered cloth, pieces East. The tablets are written in an archaic of plastic crucifixes and innumerable pebbles stuck language even for the Achaemenid period, and to the wall with melted candle wax. might have been treasured by the Orontids for centuries before they were brought to the city. Facing the border are remains of old Soviet defenses, designed to foil Turkish/NATO surprise Other writings include 3rd c BCE Greek attacks. The abandoned, decrepit tank-topped At the very top there is a large platform inscriptions, including the poems of Hesiod, texts bunkers are still considered national defense surrounded by fallen blocks of stone. This is the by Euripides, a Macedonian Calendar and a name points, and technically off limits. temple mount, once surmounted by a large list of the Orontid kings. structure that no longer remains. Excavations

Armavir Marz: page 77 of 94 - © 2008 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® showed the temple to have followed Urartian, c BCE Greek playwright Euripides), leaving only The medieval layer shows continued craft Achaemenid and then Hellenistic styles, though the current area for archeologists to explore. production, as well as large bakery that was none of the wall blocks remain, suggesting it was uncovered in 2002 excavations. A layout of the dismantled and used elsewhere, perhaps in a later streets, and two approaches to the temple mount capital, or by locals for their own purposes. The can be seen from the last excavation. black tufa stones at the site are from the medieval church that replaced the old temple. Pottery shards proliferate around the hill, including a few rare fragments of medieval glazing. If it followed the same conventions as other temples from the era, its original fire worship temple would have been converted into a temple to one of Urartu’s deities (Khaldi?), oriented N-S, with an inner courtyard surrounding the sanctuary building. It would then have been used again as a fire worship temple in the Achaemenid period (Ahuramazd/Aramazd, Mher), later reserved for one of the Hellenistic Armenian deities (Mythra, Astghikh, Vahagn) before its conversion to a  From central Nor Artages continue SW on the Christian church. The lower cave shrine shows same road for about 2 km to the main evidence of pagan rituals into the modern era, intersection in (Nalbandian, DD 40.06234 x suggesting the conversion of the temple mount It includes five inscriptions (which you can still see 43.98767, elev. 875m) + 4 O never fully took hold. Recent excavations have if you comb the western hills) of historical opened an entrance on the east end of the temple, importance: SIDE TRIP: Nalbandian – ܳÉμ³Ý¹Û³Ý typical for Pagan sites. (formerly Shahriar, pop. 2024) was once a (A) A listing of the headings of three 3rd c BCE prosperous farming community, and could be histories of Armenia, saying they had to be again, save the remittances sent back from half returned to the archives at the temple (an early Overnight at in a village home (rustic, 4000 AMD its citizens now living in Russia which have stone library card?); for B&B is fair); Camping in the area (near village spoiled the rest into listlessness. and site-no shade); Food at Haikavan & Armavir (B) A list of Macedonian calendar months; Village mterks and cafe; Springs in the area. The village gave an inordinate amount of its sons during the Great patriotic War, and partly (C) A tribute by the Greek condottiero (leader)  From Old Armavir continue SW on the road for because of this (and partly because a local Numenio, ca. 188-160 BCE, describing how a about 3 km to central (Nor Artages, DD Soviet boss pulled in favors), the village was shipment (Arms? Goods?) from the Syrian king 40.06895 x 44.00508, elev. 874m) + 4 O chosen to receive one of the most moving WWII Antioch IV helped the first king of Armenia monuments in the country, if I do betray my Artashes to secure his independence from the SIDE TRIP: Nor Artages - Üáñ ²ñï³·»ë (pop. aesthetic tastes. Achaemenids. 600) ekes out an existence from the fertile soil that surrounds the village, limited by competing claims on land from next door Nalbandian and down stream Janfida. It should be prosperous, but the main portion of villagers live in Russia, working as day laborers, and not much of their Excavations also opened another sanctuary on the incomes seems to have returned to the village. North face of the hill, with a rocky outcrop worked into a three-stepped pedestal (parakon) for a The village has an impressive monument, its statue of a god. A basalt idol was found at the main and only site. The WWII monument base of that pedestal. Also found were the bones shows a triumphant warrior holding his son aloft of sacrificial animals and a movable stone altar. in a distinctly god-like pose (shades of Dionysus/Mher!). The monument is on the main To the west there is a substantial excavation of the road to Nalbandian. Hellenistic period, important in understanding the Seleucid period in the region. Once covering two Overnight at in a village home (rustic, 4000 cliff areas, the installation of Soviet defenses AMD for B&B is fair); Camping in the area obliterated all evidence of this period from one of (near village – shade in orchards, ask); Food at the cliffs (including a famous inscription of the 5th mterks and Armavir; Springs in the area. The imagery is typical for Soviet edge, combining an obvious Pieta motif with

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monumental size and angles and an equally A R (E) turn leads in about 700 m to a dirt path Egypt, and the Chan dynasty in China. It ended To the greatness of our god Khaldi, Argishti son obvious church imagery with the three apse on the R (S) that climbs past a monument to abruptly in the 6th c. with wars with Assyria and of , says: I built a great fortress and arches and the cross form in the placement of the top of the hill that is the / the Achaemenids and the destruction of the capital made its name of my own, Argishtikhinili. The the bodies. This was as much a statement ARGISHTIKHINILI EXCAVATION (DD of Tushpa. land was a wilderness: nothing there was striking against the Soviet aesthetic forms as it 40.07993 x 43.99601, 912m) 4 + O flourishing. I tamed them. Out of the rivers I was an artistic expression of pain and grief. made four canals; (from them) the grape lands ² NOR ARMAVIR/ ARGISHTIKHINILI - and fruits lands were divided. I made many Üàð ²ðزìÆð/²ð¶ÆÞîÆÊÆÜÆÈÆÆ äºÔàôØ great heroic things there.

(Üáñ ²ñÙ³íÇñ/²ñ·ÇßïÇËÇÝÇÉÇÇ å»ÕáõÙ ) H H sits within spitting distance of Old Armavir on a hill The fortress was one of many in the Ararat valley, that skirts the south side of the village of Nor part of a complex string of defensive positions Armavir. The hill is more easily mounted than Old established by Argishti, built to arrest invasions by Armavir (there is a navigable dirt road to the top), “Northern Tribes” (the Scythians and Cimmerians) and the site has more extensive fortifications; a who were attempting to migrate into the region. good example of how the Urartians engineered His father, king Menua, had established a foothold their defense systems. in Armavir region, referred to as Etius in Yazlitash and Zolakert inscriptions, the name of its capital as Otherwise the site has few of the dramatic effect Lununis. The capital is assumed to be the same (pottery shards, temple mount, caves) of Old hills occupied by his son Argishti. Armavir, and—except for the magnificent view it affords of the Ararat valley—should be reserved as The capital lasted until 5th c BCE raids by

a secondary trip or for those mad about Scythians, who had made compact with Medians to The two volcanic hills that make up the ancient archeology. capture the Urartian empire, plundered the city, capital were—like Armavir—inhabited from burning it to the ground. Rebuilt and reinhabited Nearby there is a small Tukh Manuk shrine in a prehistoric times, and like Armavir, naturally Background in later periods, the site’s last important period private house, the so-called S. Hovhannes (DD defended by a web of waterways cut through the As early as the reign of the Assyrian king was during the medieval period, which left pottery 40.06477 x 43.98518, elev. 879), reached by area by the Arax River. Shalmanaser I (1280-1266 BCE), the first mention shards and mud-brick structures behind. taking the street at the big tree 1 block from of Urartu is made, under the name “Uruatri”. By the WWII monument, the metal roof is seen It is most famous for its Urartu period, when the the 9th c. BCE the Urartu kingdom had established [MAP] from afar. The village has some interesting hill was chosen in 776 BCE by King Argishti I as a its regional power far beyond its capital at Tushpa. buildings and homes. fortress and capital to accompany those at Karmir The Urartians called their country Biainili (the The Complex blur and Erebuni, linchpins of his extension of the name Urartu comes from the Assyrian). The excavated remains flow along the top and empire that included the Ararat valley, the Lake inner valley of two hills, roughly forming the S and Sevan basin and southern Georgia. The city SE end of the village of Nor Armavir. became known as Argishtikhinili.

Overnight at in a village home (rustic, 4000 Old Armavir from Argishtikhinili AMD for B&B is fair); Camping in the area (near village – shade in orchards, ask); Food at The people of the Urartu kingdom created a mterks and Armavir; Springs in the area. specific and highly developed civilization, one that rivaled all regional empires. It occurred at the Argishti left a calling card at the site in the form of The walls towards the top of the main hill (road  From Nalbandian’s central intersection take the same time as the ascendancy of the Greek city- a basalt stone cuneiform that reads: entry on the NW side of the hill, or SW end of the N road for about 2 km to a T-intersection where states, Babylon, Assyria, the New Kingdom in village; there is a stone monument to the site

Armavir Marz: page 79 of 94 - © 2008 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® about 50 m uphill), are the most impressive, a periods. Very rarely, visitors report finding an part of the site of the May 1918 battle between the series of cyclopic stone walls forming a series of ancient coin (mostly Arab and later periods). Turkish 36th army and local Armenians that led to defensive positions to protect the innermost Turkish defeat at the hands of local Armenians, citadel. Just below the top there is a simple many of which were armed only with pitchforks plaster of Paris diorama map of the site and area, and scythes. replicating an early stone map from the site. It shows the extensive settlement and irrigation Further defeats of Turkish forces near Aparan and channels engineered by the Urartians in the valley, Vanadzor cemented the end of Turkish aspirations some of which still feed area croplands. to eliminate the Armenian people and establish a Pan Turkish Empire, and to the establishment of Foundations of Urartian and medieval dwellings the First Republic of Armenia. (the latter are mud-brick and straw), lie scattered throughout the main and secondary, eastern hill, The site includes an excellent Ethnographic those excavated in the inner valley between were museum with artifacts from nearby 8th c BCE covered up after archeological digs, and some lie Argishtihinili, 4th c BCE Armavir and medieval below the modern cemetery. Armenian life.

[MAP West Hill] BACKGROUND The Battle of Sardarapat Part of the Ararat Fertile Crescent, the area is site Following the entry of Turkey into WWI on the Axis The western hill has the most developed to prehistoric settlements from the Stone Age, with side, and a disastrous Turkish campaign to invade foundation system, a large complex of rooms, Below the W hill, on its E side, there is small Tukh small settlements dating to ca. 9000 BCE and Russian-controlled Eastern Armenia, the Young temples and palaces that stretch more than 200 Manuk dedicated to S. Davit, its recent more complex urban sites to 6000 BCE. The three Turk government instigated a campaign in 1915 to m. renovation unable to obscure its prehistoric origins hills to the E of Sardarapat have excavations of wipe out their Christian populations. This included (look for the ancient stone lying inside the chapel. two of Armenia’s prehistoric capitals; immediately up to 2 million loyal Armenian subjects. [MAP East Hill] Outside, a small casket stone replaces an ancient east the two fortified hills of the Urartian capital one that sit nearby, worn into a saddle shape by Argishtihinili (8th-6th cc BCE), and further east the Russian advances in 1916-1917 halted the The East hill had a large citadel, carefully protected hundreds of generations of use. The new stone is large 4th c capital of Armavir. About 30 km west slaughter in the farthest East of Anatolia and by several rings of defensive walls. It is here the decorated with flat pebbles, wishing stones seeking are two more; the Orontid capitals of Yervandashat threatened to finally retake historic Armenia from governor lived and where the king slept when favor with the gods. The legend goes that if you (302 BCE) and Bagaran (211-200 BCE). the Turks, but when the October Revolution came, visiting the area. Excavations uncovered a more can make a stone stick to the casket sides, your the Bolsheviks signed a treaty of peace and then sketchy outline of the area; it was badly damaged wish will be granted. Some cheat with candle wax, After the removal of the capital to Artashat, the the Treaty of Brest-Litovsk in March 1918, which at the end of its life. others rub their smooth stones vigorously before citadels all fell into slow decline, remarked only in gave all of the Eastern Anatolian territory captured attempting the task. a few written sources, including one by the Roman by Russians in the 1877-78 War with Turkey back historian Tacitus describing the Roman invasion of to the Turks. The Russian army was then called Overnight at in a village home (rustic, 4000 AMD Armenia by the general Corbulon in 59 CE. back to Russia, leaving Armenia defenseless for B&B is fair); Camping in the area (no shade); against Turkish aggression. Food at village mterks and Sardarapat cafe; In the middle sits the long, low brow of Springs in the area. Sardarapat, once a key stop on the Kars to Isfahan Rail line, a linchpin in control of the Ararat Valley. Â From Nor Armavir backtrack to the T- The hill (site of the monument and museum) intersection and continue forward (W) for about formed the battery of Armenian forces that fought 1.5 km to central Amassia; continue W for the Turkish 36th army to a standstill and then another 2.8 km to the (M5) above Hushakert retreat in a series of battles between May 21-29, where a R (NE) turn leads in about 2.8 km to 1918. the SARDARAPAT (ARAX) (DD 40.07993 x 43.99601, 928m) + 4 Æ O

² SARDARAPAT (ARAKS) - ê²ð¸²ð²ä²î

(²ð²øê) / ê³ñ¹³ñ³å³ï (²ñ³ùë) H H (Araks pop. 500), Sardarapat memorial, URL: Look carefully as you walk through the site; http://ac.aua.am/skhachat/Web/index.html, open though picked over by legions of travelers before 10-5 every day, except Mondays and National you, you still may find (especially after rainfall) Holidays (open Independence Day: May 28), 300 pottery shards from the various periods of AMD, guided tour +500 AMD, is located 15 km S of inhabitation. Black burnished ware was favored by modern Armavir (called Hoktemberian by locals), Urartians, red is normally (not always) of later 7 km W of Argishtihinili excavation and overlooks

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Russians left Eastern Armenia, they rallied and— The other two Turkish divisions sent to support the led by Vehib Pasha—the 3rd army stationed its central thrust were also halted, first at the Battle troops facing the Armenian irregulars and began a of Aparan-Bash on May 21-24, which pushed the second campaign to exterminate the Armenians Turks back to Alexandropol. Meanwhile, Armenian and smash through the Caucasus to join with forces at Alexandropol (Giumri), at first Azerbaijan and the Central Asian territories. surrounded by Turks, retreated to Kara-Kilisa (Vanadzor), where their resistance cut off Turkish advances towards Baku (May 22-28), forcing a general retreat of the defeated army back into Anatolia.

Turkish attempts to invade did not end at the Battle of Sardarapat; the defeated army regrouped in a few months began anew to put pressure on Armenian forces, often be sending Kurdish raiding parties into Armenia. In the meantime, Georgia, worried of Turkish aggression against their lands, made compact with Germany, who forced the Turks to stop at Batumi. Azerbaijan was again isolated, and immediately faced an internal crisis as Bolsheviks began to agitate oil workers to revolt and establish a Socialist Republic.

While the battle of Sardarapat did not end Turkish The Battle of Sardarapat was in fact three battles The Armenians were forced to evacuate one city aggression, it did buy crucial time for Armenia, between May 21-29, 1918, at three locations: after another in Eastern Anatolia, until the 3rd enough to establish the Democratic Republic of Sardarapat, Kharakilisa (Vanadzor) and Bash army captured Alexandropol on May 18th of 1918, Armenia (DRA) on May 28, 1918. The republic Aparan (Aparan). It started with the fall of and split into three prongs, the 36th division sent was short-lived, harassed by Turks and on Alexandropol on May 15, 1918, and the division of down the Kars-Yerevan railway to capture the its western borders, an increasingly proactive the Turkish army into three prongs, in an effort to Ararat Valley. Other divisions were sent to the Bolshevik movement, and a swollen population of cut off rail aid at Kharakilisa and to surround Aparan Plain to take Kotaik/Gegharkunik and link 394,000 refugees from the genocide, and ensuing Yerevan, the last free Armenian city. with Azerbaijan, while another headed to Kara- starvation, disease (the Spanish Flu was Kilisa (present day Vanadzor). particularly brutal during the winter of 1919),

The map above shows the movements of the poverty and lack of housing. The republic fell to The Turks got as far as Sardarapat (present Turkish Army 36th division (blue ) which Lore has it that church bells rang throughout the political infighting, an invasion of Turks in Armavir City) Railway station on May 21 when the marched down the Alexandropol Rail line towards country after the fall of Alexandropol, summoning September of 1920 and the Red Army in counter attack began (may 22), repeated on May Yerevan, taking the village and rail station of Armenians to the defense of their country. November of the same year. Yerevan ceded 25. Led by Movses Silikian, the Armenians fought Sardarapat on May 21. Interviews with remaining survivors of the battle control to the Bolsheviks on December 2, 1920, the Turks to a draw, then used a battery on the tell of a mass uprising by Armenians who had finally ending Turkish aggression. long ridge that makes up the current monument In a last gasp effort to survive, Armenians troops endured the horrors of the genocide, turning out in and museum to cannonade Turkish forces. Having and militia under the command of General droves with any weapon they could find, bent on The Complex spent the last 3 years slaughtering Armenians with (red arrows) began a counter attack, taking revenge. The site was dedicated in 1968 and includes a little resistance, the Turkish division was caught off aided by commoners armed with hunting rifles, memorial to the Sardarapat Battle of 1918 and guard by the fierce counterattack by Armenian pitchforks and knives. The battle was indecisive [MAP] perhaps the best ethnographic museum in partisans, soldiers and townspeople (some only until May 27, when Turkish forces endured terrible Armenia, with well-kept interpretive displays of life brandishing a pitchfork or kitchen ), panicked, loss and their lines broke, causing a rout and from the prehistoric era to the 19th c, using and fled, many hacked to death in their retreat. further Turkish casualties. The failure of Turkish artifacts unearthed from the area. There are also The Turks were forced N and to the right bank of forces to break through Aparan Pass to aid their a café and restrooms. the Arax River. brethren at Sardarapat (May 23-28); and to invade

Tavush via Kharakilisa broke the Turkish back and [MAP] Casualties The Turkish 36th division numbered ended their invasion. NS 35,000 soldiers, of which 30,000 were counted as

casualties after the battle (wounded, killed). Armenian forces numbered 45,000, with the same The Turks had encountered repeated defeats in the number of casualties. war, leaving its army demoralized, but when the

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The Ethnographic Museum (tel. 091-425026) is located behind the Wall of Glory, at the end of a long walk. It was founded in 1978 as the first comprehensive ethnographic museum in Armenia, and remains its largest. The collection includes artifacts collected beginning in 1906 by the Tflis (Tbilisi) Ethnographic Society, augmented with items from the vast collection at the State History Museum in Yerevan.

The square building is built around an enclosed central hall with three domes designed in the traditional peasant “hazarashen” style, and serves as a gallery for temporary exhibitions. The gallery halls are in turn built around inner courtyards that THE MEMORIAL hold small gardens and outdoor exhibitions. The The Memorial (Architects and Sculptors: R. building is in turn surrounded by an wide walkway Israelian, A. Harutiunian, S. Manasian, A. with carved stones and khachkars, including a Shahinian) sits at the end of a long walkway south mountain spring vishap (“dragon stone”, ca. 4000 The first part of the gallery is a collection of model from the parking area, and is made of two large BCE). heads, an attempt by A. Chagarian to show Urartian style bull sculptures which frame a large comparative proto-Armenian head types from carillon. excavated skeletal remains at various sites in the country. The attempt looks vaguely reminiscent of The 26m high tower is made of 9 arches and the 19th c pseudo-science of phrenology, which twelve bells, one for each of the Western Armenian attributed character traits and mental abilities to towns and regions in Anatolia where Turkish the shape of the head. (and which the Nazis atrocities are known to have occurred. The bells distorted to illustrate the superiority of the Aryan are rung for groups of tourists and continuously on race). May 28). A group of memorials to the fallen of the 1988 Nagorno Karabakh conflict sit to the W (R) of the bell tower.

The museum is on two floors, divided into seven galleries.

[PLAN]

Ancient Armenia contains one of the richest collections of antique artifacts in the country, with Included are Bronze Age arts and crafts, an Urartian cuneiform stone found at Argishtihinili, over 7000 items on display. The displays are chronologically organized from the Middle Stone and elaborate khachkars from the medieval period. To the E (L) of the tower there is a long walk Age to the late Medieval periods. Of note are flanked by Eagle carvings, which leads to the artifacts uncovered during excavations at curved 55m long Wall of Glory, with imagined Argishtihinili, Old Armavir & Zeiva (Armavir marz), scenes of the battle carved on the wall. Dvin, L’chashen & Zolakar (Gegharkunik marz), Lori Berd (Lori marz), Noyemberian (Tavush THE MUSEUM marz), and Shirakavan (Shirak marz/Turkey border).

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Farming constituted the greatest part o f The Family and Community gallery exhibits Modern Decorative Art includes displays of arts Armenian life for the longest period, and not focus on folk and the traditional family and and crafts from the 1980s; ceramic ware, carvings, surprisingly, it makes up the longest gallery in the community as it was before the onset of glass and wood work that incorporate traditional museum, with displays focusing on the life style industrialization and the modern era. On display design motifs in their modern form. and the implements that made it work. Displays are artifacts and examples of folk Christian and break agrarian life into different climatic and pre-Christian customs and design, the village, Overnight in Armavir (Hoktemberian); Camping geographic zones, as well as auxiliary rural which formed the essential fabric of Armenians life in the area (little shade); Food at museum café, occupations and the variety of traditional food. in the pre-industrial world, and the rites that grills on the road to Armavir, Armavir; Springs in reflected this pre-modern world; agriculture, the area. fortune telling, traditional dwellings and interior design, community rites. Â From Sardarapat take the (M5) to the NE for about 3 km and past Arax v. to a L (NW) turn that in about 1.4 km leads to central (Vostanik, DD 40.123812 x 43.96105, 890m) + 4 O

SIDE TRIP: Vostanik – (till 1946 Aghlanli Nerkin or Yasakhli, then Lenughi, pop. 500) has a S. N’shan church built in the 1870s.

Overnight at in a village home (rustic, 4000 AMD for B&B is fair); Camping in the area (near village – shade in orchards, ask); Food at Arax mterk and in Armavir; Springs in the area. The second floor Urban Life galleries have displays on the 19th c life of the relatively few  From Vostanik, backtrack to the (M5), turn L Urban dwellers who lived in the few urban centers Handcrafts include and extensive collection of (NE) and continue for about 3.8 km to central of the time; Yerevan, Alexandropol (Giumri), Armenian folk art that was widely used in the (Hoktember, DD 40.13009 x 44.00492, 924m) + Echmiadzin, Nor Baiyazet (), and . Built Armenian household and community. Crafts 4 O on a new European model of living, these artisans constituted the major population of the The Costume collection includes examples of inhabitants (usually no more than 20,000 in each urban centers in both Eastern and Western traditional costume design from Armenia’s diverse SIDE TRIP: Hoktember – (till 1935 Sardarapat, city) led gracious, cultured lives in an otherwise Armenians (80 per cent of urban dweller sin regions. Displays show both urban and rural pop. 2600) is the actual village mentioned in the agrarian, tough world, and the artifacts on display Russian Caucasus were Armenians craftsmen). clothing samples, embroidery and weaving, and Battle of Sardarapat, captured along with the reflect that; furniture, costume, objects des art, Items include handmade tools, utensils, weapons particular designs organized along the historic rail station to the N by Turks on May 21, 1918. and the incorporation of traditional folk art on and other objects of the pre-industrial Armenian provinces of the country in the late 19th c. The battle began to the N and W as Armenian “modern” items. world. militia began a counter attack that pushed the

Turks back to the Arax River on May 27.

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The ruins of the important Sardari Castle are Sardari Castle was lost to the Russians at the 2.2 km NW of Hoktember, on the R (NE) side of end of the war, despite its strong fortifications the Dzerzhinsky road (the cemetery). Using and the efforts of Hussein’s brother, Hassan  END OF TRIP 2 British aid, the castle was built in 1810 for Khan Sardari Iravani, to defend the fortress. It Sardar Hussein Khan Qajar (Sardari Iravani), was taken in 1828 by forces under the Russian the last Qajar governor of the Erivan Khanate General Paskevich. ² ² ² ² ² (r. 1807-1828). The Persians had divided the Caucasus into khanates, Erivan being one of The history of the British and Armenia is several. complicated, their acting sometimes as friends but more often as foes, but goes a long ways towards explaining the striking animosity of British Colonial historians against the Armenian state. Engaged in the battle for colonies against the other members of the Great Powers (France, Germany and Russia) England’s concern for Persia and Ottoman Turkey had little to do with genuine concern for the old boys as much as it had to do with their raw grab for power. As Russian power swelled in the late 18th century, England became alarmed at the threat against its trading routes through the Middle East and Egypt.

The site consists of ruins and traces of the once massive walls that rung the castle—the castle Grigor Gagarin,” Trick Riding of Kurds and Tatars in front of was dismantled in Soviet times. the Fortress Sardarapat in Armenia”, 1840s (The Russian Museum, St. Petersburg) Overnight at in a village home (rustic, 4000

AMD for B&B is fair); Camping in the area The Qajars (also known as Ghajars or Kadjars) (near village – shade in orchards, ask); Food at were the last Persian rulers of Armenia, mterks and in Armavir; Springs in the area. inheriting the country from the Safavids in

1781. The Qajars ruled in Iran until 1925. Â From Hoktember take the S road for about 2.8

km to central (Bambakashat, DD 40.10536 x Sardari castle was built using blocks of stone 44.01600, 869m) from Old Armavir and some stones in the ruins + 4 O still bear the cuneiform from the Urartu era. The castle became the administrative center for SIDE TRIP: Bambakashat – ´³Ùμ³Ï³ß³ï Sardarapat district and the summer residence (before Mullah-Bayazid, pop. 1000) the name for the Erivan Khan. means “Lots of cotton”, an apt name for a village that excelled in cotton production. It Encouraged by the British, who were fearful of now lives off of vegetable and animal Russian incursions into the Near East (and their husbandry, though most of its citizens have lucrative trade routes to India), the Qajar Fath found their way to Yerevan or Russia to earn a Ali Shah declared war against the Tsar in 1803. living wage. The war marked the first eclipse of Qajar power in Iran and its dominions. The village has a 1914 renovation of the 14th c S. Astvatsatsin, which appears to have been The Qajar army suffered humiliating defeats and built over an early Christian structure. The was forced to surrender in 1813, signing the church was renovated in 1991, which has done Treaty of Giulistan which recognized Russian little to preserve its original character. annexation of Georgia and much of the Caucasus. It did not include Erivan Khanate and Overnight at in a village home (rustic, 4000 Nakhichevan, which was ceded to Russia after AMD for B&B is fair); Camping in the area the Russo-Persian War of 1827-1828. (near village – shade in orchards, ask); Food at mterks and in Armavir; Springs in the area.

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fruit and vegetables from their garden and a handful named after the apostle Bartholomew, TRIP 3: SOUTH ARMAVIR H H (Aknashen) – (Gai) – (J’rarat) – (Markara) – peppering of questions about your neck of the one of two apostles believed to have preached (Arazap) – (Argavand) – (Tandzut) – world. in Armenia in the 1st century (the other is (Aigeshat) – (Janfida) - (Nalbandian) – Tadeos, also known as Tadevos or Thaddeus). (Getashen) – (Arax) Note: While Markara is on the trip, the border is Bartholomew is connected to several Near East closed, and you are advised not to get too close to and Indian traditions, including a Syrian belief Trip 3 does not cover mainstream sites, and is not the border crossing, which is manned by Russian that his name was originally Jesus (which was a for the visitor on a whirlwind “greatest hits” tour; guards who are not at all as understanding as their common name for the time, like John is for not even close. This collection of villages is part of Armenian compatriots. England), and he changed it when he became a backwater of the marz, even of the country, an apostle. many maintaining old world ways in the face of Æ + 4 O 21st century mechanization and a distressing loss Stay: Hotels, restaurant-hotels and motels on the of their population to greener fields in Russia and (M5) from Yerevan to Echmiadzin, guest the west. houses/apts. in Echmiadzin, village homes (rustic); camping near villages (no tree cover). Eat: Restaurants & cafes in Echmiadzin; mterks and kiosks in Echmiadzin and villages. Springs: freshwater cold springs at villages, and About 1 km southeast of the village center is the Echmiadzin. small, reconstructed S. Sarkis Tukh Manuk, just in front of a Bronze Age Tell (the low hill  From Echmiadzin, take the (M3) S about 6.6 km behind the building) (DD 40.09057 x 44.29546, to the Vacheh turn off; continue S for another elev. 839m). The shrine is built over an ancient 600 m to a L (SE) turnoff into (Aknashen, DD site, and the area in front has a number of 40.09547 x 44.28493, elev. 839m) + 4 O Bronze Age Vishap and worship stones, including one low stone with an telescopic eye SIDE TRIP: Aknashen - ²ÏÝ³ß»Ý (till 1978 hole carved throughout its top. The stones Verin Khatunarkh, pop. 450) was named for the mark the probable location of a Bronze Age wife of the Persian Safavid governor, Sefi Khan, cromlech (stone circle) at the site, connected to who ruled over the Erivan Khanate in the late Another is that that after the Ascension, the Tell that is behind the shrine. Persian period (16th-19th cc). The village—like Bartholomew went on a missionary tour to most on this tour—was part of a vast marshland India, where he left behind a copy of the Gospel that bred the Vordan Karmir (cochineal), which of Matthew. Other traditions say he preached in fed a thousand years of prosperity for those who Ethiopia, Mesopotamia, Parthia, and Laconia. Despite (or in spite of) all this, the trip’s three-four controlled the trade. Details follow in the J’rarat His Parthian mission may have been the hour tour can be a pleasant escape from the entry. origination of his ministry in Armenia, for his jostling crowds at Echmiadzin, exploring a land of work here is traced to the beginning of old world farming, intense heat and laid back Christianity in the country. There is also a local ways. The trip explores the area’s extensive tradition that he was martyred at the site of the marshland and river delta (good birding sites), the Maiden Tower in Baku, by being flayed alive and Vordan Karmir preserves (the last native habitat then crucified head down. His body was for a small ground beetle (Cochineal) which red believed to have washed to Sicily where it was excretion formed the basis of an ink prized by the taken by the Roman church and preserved as a courts of Arabia, Egypt and medieval European) relic. Another relic of the saint is kept at the and skirts along the same byways as sites in Trips Treasury Museum in Echmiadzin. 2 and 4, allowing a pleasant diversion from either one. The church is being entirely reconstructed on top of the medieval church that was destroyed The trip includes Markara, on the Turkish border by Timurid raids and earthquake. The original Overnight at village home (rustic; 3000-4000 (the closest you can get in Armenia without was a Pagan temple that may have been AMD for B&B is fair); camping near village (flat breaking border rules), which may well become a converted into a Christian church even before lands, no trees); springs in village. boom town and bring prosperity to the region, the conversion in the first decade of the 4th when the border is finally opened (no one is century. Nearby there are some trace stones of  From Aknashen, SE about 1 km to central (Gai, placing bets on that momentous event yet). It the old church/temple, including column bases DD 40.08321 x 44.30455, elev. 834m) + 4 O also includes villages with extremely friendly locals The village center has a S. Bardughimeos and a makeshift shrine with religious images who follow up their surprise you bothered to visit (Bartholomew) church, next to the WWII and candles. SIDE TRIP: Gai - ¶³Û (pronounced “Guy”, till with cups of coffee (and home-made brew), fresh memorial column. The church is one of just a 1978 Khatunarkh, pop. 1000) was resettled in

Armavir Marz: page 85 of 94 - © 2008 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® the on top of medieval ruins during the reign of Purge. For more details, see Yerevan Chapter, banks of the Arax River that the soil was ‘red It was not easy to extract the color. The color Sefi Kuli-khan II (ca. 1670 - 1675), and named Nork Monuments, and Gai Nahapet Statue. like a carpet’; so seeped in the beetle’s red comes from the female beetle, which can be Khatunarkh for his sister-cum-concubine. Sites include the working S. N’shan church, secretions that the animals grazing there picked only from the end of September through rebuilt between 1888-1892 and newly seemed dipped in paint. October, the female emerging only a few hours renovated in the 1990s; and the remains of the in the morning. The beetles must be hand important 6000-2000 BCE settlement of picked, then boiled to release the color, Khatunarkh to the E. strained, and mixed with special oils to create the dye. It can be dried to make cloth dye. The Overnight at village home (rustic; 3000-4000 exact process for creating carmine ink, paint AMD for B&B is fair); camping near village (flat and dye is lost; though it was superior, lands, no trees); springs in village. competition of more plentiful (and cheaper) cochineal carmine from Poland and Mexico  From Gai, head SW for about 3.8 km and past suppressed demand, and synthetic dyes ended Metsamor village to central (J’rarat, DD all natural production. 40.06971 x 44.26636, elev. 834m) + 4 O The natural habitat for the SIDE TRIP: J’rarat - æñ³é³ï (formerly was decimated in Soviet times. Once covering Gharkhun, pop. 1200) is a tired looking village, the entire Ararat valley, the salt marshes its rail station and once bustling warehouse required to nourish the beetle were reduced to empty and bereft of any human activity. The 3000 hectares in the mid 20th century, when village seems deserted; even the 50% cut in intensive reclamation for farming (which failed Sefi was ruler of the Erivan Khanate during the population seems conservative. due to the salt left it the soil) destroyed the waning years of the Safavid Persian dynasty, insects’ habitat in Ararat Marz, causing its which had engaged in a life-or-death struggle The Vordan Karmir Reservation covers a extinction there. Ironically, despite failing with with Ottoman Turkey over control of the wide swatch of marshland beginning at J’rarat The natural dye (also known as carmine red) land “reclaimed” from the vordan’s habitat, Caucasus. One of the tactics used by Safavids and hop-scotching to Arazap, Argavand and Nor extracted from Ararat cochineal and known in farmers continue to drain salt marshes thinking during this 150 year struggle was a slash-and- Alashkert (Sovetakan). The reserve is the last the Orient as Armenian “krmizi” (“wine- they can somehow till the saline soil. Instead, burn campaign during retreat, forcing native habitat for the Vordan Karmir, an colored”) was superior in hue and stability to they simply destroy more natural habitat, Armenians locals to emigrate to Iran and endemic cochineal (Porphyrophora hamelii) that that later produced from Mexican and Polish leaving wasteland in their wake. The preserve wasting the lands left behind. Thus the thrives in the area’s salt marshes and unique cochineal. It was prized by royal courts of is not protected by law, and what remains are a destruction of the medieval village. The Soviets vegetation (Aeluropus littoralis (Gouan) Parl. medieval Europe and the in . few hundred hectares of land and a small vastly rebuilt the village so that nothing remains and Phragmites australis (Cav.) Trin. ex Its color was used in royal and spiritual research office trying to recover the process for of either its medieval or Persian times, save Steud.). treatises, in miniatures and manuscripts, and in making the carmine color. some stones. frescoes on the walls of churches and palaces in

The name also means both “red dye” and the Armenia, Persia, Byzantium and Europe. This is a tragedy, since natural dyes have made color is one of a comeback, and cochineal carmine is highly the strongest prized by make-up, fashion and natural product and most companies, a growing multi-billion dollar resilient of business, and several companies are particularly natural dyes, interested in Armenian carmine, which is longer which was the lasting. It has yet to make a difference in the reason for its fate of this important part of Armenian culture popularity in and history. ancient times. While written Overnight at village home (rustic; 3000-4000 descriptions of AMD for B&B is fair); camping near village (flat the dye and how lands, no trees); springs in village. to make it date to the 5th century, the dye is known to have  From J’rarat, take the N road for about 2.8 km been used in the late Bronze Age and especially to the (M3) intersection in Lusagiugh; turn L The village was renamed Gai in honor of Gai the Urartian period, when it was exported to (SW) and continue for about 10.5 km and past Vordan Karmir used on fresco at Noravank, Vayots Dzor Nahapet (Haik Bzhishkian, 1887-1937), a Egypt and the Mediterranean. marz. and to the Turkish general of the Russian Imperial Army who The color was also prized by some of Europe’s border in (Markara, DD 40.03061 x 44.17886, joined the Bolsheviks and routed the White Its native habitat once stretched into Ararat most famous artists, including Rembrandt. elev. 840m) + 4 O Czechs in 1918. Arrested in 1935, he was marz and beyond; medieval chroniclers wrote executed on orders of Stalin during the Great that cochineal “worm” was so common on both

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SIDE TRIP: Markara - سñ·³ñ³ (in 1830 banks of the Araks’, so true for this village that The village has one of the most impressive There are several old khachkars in the yard and -Gök, pop. 700) had a few heady years is but 200 meters from the riverbank. WWII monuments, if the size of the statue walls, which point to a much older origin, but as the closest Turkish border crossing to matters; the stout goddess of victory that looms the main church was built in 1890, using rubble Yerevan, and high hopes for a booming future The village has the small S. Astvatsatsin Tukh over the main square is a welded mass of steel stone that was plastered over and painted with as transit and customs point between Turkey Manuk, in the old center, and its surrounding and weighs in at several tons. frescoes. The new work adds pink tufa stones and a newly independent Armenia in 1991. marshlands are a part of the Vordan Karmir to the new portico and frames the side walls That quickly soured when Turkey closed the Preserve (see p. 86). Taking the small street to the right of the statue with arches. border in protest against Armenian gains in its as you face it, you soon meet the back of the undeclared war with Azerbaijan over the Overnight at village home (rustic; 3000-4000 renovated S. Sahak, originally built in 1912 on Overnight at village home (rustic; 3000-4000 Armenian-inhabited enclave of Nagorno AMD for B&B is fair); camping near village (flat the site of a Tukh Manuk. The renovation is one AMD for B&B is fair); camping near village (flat Karabakh. The village sleeps, dreaming of a lands, no trees); springs in village. of the most successful church preservations in lands, no trees); springs in village. new bright future when the border reopens. the country, maintaining the integrity of its “When pigs fly,” retort the more rabid Turkish  From central Arazap take the slightly NW village 19th-early 20th century structure while  From the central intersection in Aigeshat take nationalists, but most believe it will, as a road for about 5 km into (Argavand, DD remodeling the building. the SW road out of town for about 4.8 km to condition of Turkey entering the EU. 40.05649 x 44.09931, elev. 855m) + 4 O central (Janfida, DD 40.04527 x 44.02955, elev. 865m) + 4 O Once it does open, this border point will become SIDE TRIP: Argavand - ²ñ·³í³Ý¹ (till 1947 the natural crossing point to explore Mt. Ararat, Uzunoba, pop. 1200) is also part of the Vordan SIDE TRIP: Janfida - æ³Ýýǹ³ (pop. 1200) is Ani and just 16 km S, the city of Igdir, an Karmir Preserve (see p. 86), in the areas to barely a spec on the horizon save its World War important Urartian and Armenian city with the south and west. II monument designed by Sargsian, and its Bronze Age cromlechs and the impressive location on the Turkish border. remains of a stone age star map on the face of Overnight at village home (rustic; 3000-4000 a large boulder. AMD for B&B is fair); camping near village (flat Overnight at village home (rustic; 3000-4000 lands, no trees); springs in village. AMD for B&B is fair); camping near village (flat Overnight at village home (rustic; 3000-4000 lands, no trees); springs in village. AMD for B&B is fair); camping near village (flat  From Arazap take the N/NW road for about 2.4 lands, no trees); springs in village. km to central (Tandzut, DD 40.07072 x  From Janfida back track to Aigeshat, then take 44.07910, elev. 860m) + 4 O the NW road for about 1 km to central  From Markara center backtrack to Vardanashen (Haikavan, DD 40.07918 x 43. 03445, elev. and take the L (W) road for about 3.5 km to SIDE TRIP: Tandzut - î³ÝÓáõï (formerly 937m) + 4 O central (Arazap, DD 40.03928 x 44.15664, Armutlu, pop. 900) is just NW of Argavand and

elev. 849m) + 4 O by rights it should be included in the Vordan SIDE TRIP: Haikavan/ Old Armavir - This is mostly due to the donor, a French- Karmir Preserve: the village sits just beyond a гÛϳí³Ý / ÐÇÝ ²ñÙ³íÇñ (till 1935 Armenian who—according to locals ordered to wide arc of marshlands and river deltas that Ghrdghuli/Kuru-Kili, pop. 1350) has the nearby fix the church in a vision—gave the funds and form the preserve. For information about the Old Armavir Excavation. For a description see directed the renovation in 2004. Vordan Karmir Preserve see p. 86. Trip 2, page 76.

Before then the church was in ruins; In Soviet times it was used for wheat storage, which  From Haikavan take the N road for about 6 km caused mildew and salt release in the walls and to ARMAVIR (DD 40.14695 x 44.03278, elev. roof, gradually eating away the structure. 866m) + 4 Æ O

Overnight at village home (rustic; 3000-4000 AMD for B&B is fair); camping near village (flat  END OF TRIP 3 lands, no trees); springs in village.

 From central Arazap take the NW road for about 1.5 km to central (Aigeshat, DD 40.07576 x ² ² ² ² ² 44.05845, elev. 883m) + 4 O

SIDE TRIP: Arazap - ²ñ³½³÷ (till 1947 Evjilar, SIDE TRIP: Aigeshat - ²Û·»ß³ï (till 1950 pop. 750) is a border village with splendid views Ghuzigidan, pop. 800) has an impressive culture of Mt. Ararat and Western Armenia, from palace frontispiece, and next door, the newly whence its citizens come (they are descendents renovated S. Gevorg basilica. The church is of Sumarlu émigrés). The name means ‘on the just west of the central road.

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producing incredibly juicy, naturally sweet fruit. If to the rail station in (Miasnikian, DD 40.18372 the ongoing population-loss reverses, the area x 43.91854, elev. 902m) + 4 O Overnight at village home (rustic; 3000-4000 TRIP 4: WEST ARMAVIR H H (Miasnikian) – (Baghramian) - (Dalarik) could become a prosperous fruit-growing area. AMD for B&B is fair); camping near village (flat SIDE TRIP: Miasnikian - ØÛ³ëÝÇÏÛ³Ý (also lands, no trees); springs in village. - KARAKERT – (Argina) – (Shenik) - spelled Myasnikian or Miasnikyan or BAGARAN – YERVANDASHAT - , pop. 1800) was named for Soviet  From Miasnikian, continue NW on the (H17) (Vanand) Armenia’s first Prime Minister and Secretary of continuing forward at the Dalarik intersection the Communist Party. Alexander Miasnikian and in about 4 km turning R (N) to (1886-1925) joined the Bolsheviks in 1904, was (Baghramian, DD 40.19355 x 43.85468, elev. elected to the Central Executive Committee of 1032m) + 4 O Belarus in 1919, and then became commissar of Armenia in 1921. SIDE TRIP: Baghramian - ´³Õñ³ÙÛ³Ý (pop. 900) is barely hanging on, despite intensive aid His short tenure (1921- efforts by international aid. There is no reason 1925) is considered by for the village to exist; it was purpose built in some the last free 1983 with an eye to turning it into a industrial period for the socialist town and administrative center for old country, as Baghramian Raiyon. The stone quarries and ore

Miasnikian—never an mines in the area were the instigators of this ill- Herpetologists (amphibian fans) will find the region enemy to the fated attempt to force urban activity in place a good place to find for rare and endangered communists—strove that hadn’t any. The village is less than a species of vipers, lizards and other reptiles. The also to create a soviet quarter of its official population of 3500, with area around Karakert has an important wetland state derived from those who could having already left for greener habitat for rare species of batracho-fauna (water Armenia’s distinct pastures in Yerevan or Russia, and those who frogs) and reptiles. culture. Worse, as far can’t lingering on in a quiet, desperate way.

Trip 4 explores the Western dessert, in reality a as was The region has its charms (most in the spring), semi-desert land of scrub and brush, which blooms concerned, Miasnikian There is an eerie atmosphere in the hamlet, and several important sites worth investigating; an emerald green in the spring with large swaths pushed for with 5 and 6 story apartments inhabited by a the Bronze Age fortress at Karakert and the Iron of yellow, red, pink, blue and fuchsia from March revolutionary activity in handful of families, and the hubris of Soviet Age empire capitals of Yervandashat and Bagaran. through May. During the rest of the year the Western Armenia, with an eye to reclaiming the rusting everywhere. ground turns to the color of old leather, with historic homeland. This flew in the face of Note: Bagaran and Yervandashat are still striations of red, black and green on the slopes of Stalin, who had an instinctive dislike for Overnight at village home (rustic; 3000-4000 technically off-limits to foreigners, but they dormant volcanoes and the ragged cliffs of the Armenians and wanted to curry Turkey’s favor, AMD for B&B is fair); camping near village (flat definitely deserve a stop, with the ancient Arax and Selav-Mastara Rivers. plainly telling them he was ready to trade lands, no trees); springs in village. Armenian political and religious capitals on both Armenian lands for peace. Summer can be blistering hot and the area tough sides of the river. It is becoming more possible From Baghramian backtrack to the (H17) at country to explore, its salt marshes and once to visit the villages, but you still may be stopped  Miasnikian was officially reported killed in an air- Miasnikian, turn L (NW) and continue for about verdant grasslands reduced to the dessert space and asked for “dokumenti” by Russian guards. If crash, but rumors suggest he was poisoned that surrounds you. The deforestation of primeval you can make the arrangements (ask at a travel 5 km to a L (W) and another 1 km to the train after a protracted disagreement over Western station in (Dalarik, DD 40.23034 x 43.87596, forests in the area meant the desertification of the agency like one of the Adventure Tour Operators, Armenia. western region as early as the Iron Age, requiring p. 15), do try; the sites are enigmatic reminders of elev. 1006m) + 4 O irrigation canals to keep the fertile soil useful. a bygone day and locals are living history books. Miasnikian was admired by the artists, That ended in the late medieval period, when SIDE TRIP: Dalarik - ¸³É³ñÇÏ (till 1965 statesmen, writers and thinkers of the day, for Mastara, pop. 1200) was founded in 1902 as a Armenians were forced off the lands they had Æ + 4 O his bravery and insistence on an Armenian rail stop on the Alexandropol (Giumri)-Yerevan cultivated for millennia and the lands went arid. Stay: Hotel, restaurant-hotel at Armavir; guest national vision of socialism. His admirers railroad. The area has stone quarries and some Limited irrigation has reclaimed some of the houses/apts. in Armavir; village homes (rustic); included , with whom he had mining, but mostly lives on remittances sent western desert, but most is still untilled, the marks camping near villages and Mts. Spitakblur and shared the same room and who in 1909 chose from abroad. Like Karakert, Miasnikian and of its ancient tillage petrified by hundreds of years Sevblur (no tree cover). Miasnikian as a model for the significant nearby , Dalarik receives support from of neglect. Eat: Restaurant & cafes at Armavir; mterks and painting, “The Agriculturist”, which has not the Children of Armenia Fund (COAF) (see kiosks in Armavir and villages. survived. Resources Online, p. 92) in an attempt to Despite the lunar landscape, the area has fertile Springs: freshwater cold springs at villages, reverse rural trends of population loss and soil, and it is slowly becoming known as Apricot Armavir. The village has anew 1997 Amnaprkich (All poverty. The village is reviving a renovated Country, due to the distribution of over 30,000 Savior) church, with little of architectural high-quality apricot trees to villages in the region school and other infrastructure upgrades.  From the Armavir rail station, take the western interest but plenty of local design in the by the Armenian tree Project. The combination of highway (H17) out of Armavir for about 10.8 km religious paraphernalia and candles that adorn arid climate, hot days an cool nights is ideal for the new walls.

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Overnight at village home (rustic; 3000-4000 Nature Preserve The village is also the site of a in the area and connection at the ministry. Do not NOTE: The next two sites are inside the Turkish AMD for B&B is fair); camping near village (flat small Batracho-fauna (frogs) and herpeto-fauna expect to get one on your own.) border area and technically still require permission lands, no trees); springs in village. (reptiles) preserve for the dwindling endemic to enter. The Russian guards are at times not very species that thrive in pre-mountain semi desert From the SW corner of Karakert, take the W/SW accommodating to tourists. Permission can be had  From Dalarik continue NW on the (H17) for habitats. These include the Armenian viper (V. road for about 12 km to a R (N) road that leads in at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (almost about 6 km to the train station at KARAKERT raddei), Testudo graeca, Phrynocephalus another 5.5 km and into the Border Zone impossible for walk in tourists) or through well

(DD 40.24885 x 43.82220, elev. 1090m) + 4 helioscopus and many other arid species. (permission needed from Ministry of Foreign connected guides. Check AdventureH Tour O Affairs—or a well connected guide), where a 200 m Operators (p. 15) for escort. Apricot Country Karakert is the new capital of hike W to the Akhurian River gorge takes you to Armenia’s “Apricot Country”, a region that the hexagonal Aragats Church with tile roof, just  From Shenik continue SW on the (M9) for about ² KARAKERT – ø²ð²Îºðî (ø³ñ³Ï»ñï) encompasses the arid semi desert regions of under the gorge crest. Opposite the river to the 12 km to BAGARAN (DD 40.14706 x (pop. 1200) H  is a “Model Village” sponsored Armavir and southwestern Aragatsotn. The name NW are the ruins of the Armenian village of 43.72527, elev. 1200m) + O by an Armenian charity organization with funds is still a bit premature—apricots are harvested by Karabagh, with a medieval church and cemetery. from a wealthy Diaspora Armenian and the ton in other marz, but with 50,000 apricot ² BAGARAN - ´²¶²ð²Ü (´³·³ñ³Ý) H H international and US aid. The village has newly trees distributed or planned for the villages around Backtrack using the further W path and in about 1 (till 1935 Haji Bairam, then Bakhchalar, after 1968 renovated schools, culture center and new trees in Karakert, it will soon become a reality. km where the path bends to the SE, stop and walk Bagaran, pop. 300) is set just above the the park, with perhaps the most important aid W for about 500 m to the ruins of a hamlet and a confluence of the Akhurian and Arax Rivers, and is coming from the school projects and the Armenian As in the American southwest, apricots thrive in tiny church looking over the River gorge to the populated by Armenian villagers, most of which Tree Project, which started a tree nursery at the high altitude arid climates with hot days and cool Turkish Village of Kilittasi (see Bagaran, below). emigrated from historic Bagaran across the Turkish village that supplies high quality fruit and shade nights, a description of western Armavir if ever The church walls facing Turkey have a number of border. Recent gifts from foreign aid organizations trees to villages in the area. If it continues, the there was one. The fruit is made naturally sweet bullet holes, not all of them form the 1918 war. have reclaimed hundreds of hectares of land that program will reverse the desertification. in this otherwise daunting landscape, providing had become desert in Soviet times and the

hope for a dwindling population.  From the SW corner of Karakert take the S road village—though still tiny, is by no means destitute. (M9) for about 6.5 km to (Shenik, DD 40.21141 x 43.77134, elev. 1127m) + 4 O And the villagers maintain a strong tie to the historic city across the river, even children able to SIDE TRIP: Shenik - Þ»ÝÇÏ (pop. 600) was recount the history of Bagaran and historic Ani, founded in 1971 as a commune farming which is 35 km N on the Turkish side of the community specializing in wheat production. Akhurian River. The name comes from a village in Sassun, where most of the villagers descend.

As happened to all Armenian communes, when the Soviet Union collapsed, so did the farms— there were no seeds, fertilizer or water available to farmers, and they lost their way of living. The country faced the possibility of real starvation of the first time in 80 years.

The village has on its outskirts a tall hill above the It was not until US assistance came in the late row of barns, the site of the important Aratashen 90s that the newly privatized farms were finally Community Center The center was recently settlement, officially dated to 8000-4000 BCE, able to become self-sufficient and the renovated with aid from the US government, and with a suggestion the site may actually date to population loss was staunched. A recent US provides a welcome reversal of fortunes for the 9000 BCE. The site is well chronicled in the grant has renovated the school and sports village. Yerevan State History Museum, with displayed complex, and Shenik is a part of the COAF artifacts from the various periods of excavation, “Model Community” program, along with 19th c print showing Bagaran with temple in background Internet Karakert School #2 has an Internet and a timeline of ancient sites in Armenia featuring Karakert, Miasnikian and Dalarik. Connectivity program, and seems eager to share Literally meaning "God's Place", Bagaran was Aratashen. Climbing the hill you pass numerous their connection in exchange of you sharing some founded at the end of the 3rd century BCE by the cyclopic rocks that once made up the fortress The village has a 5th century basilica built expertise to their students. Armenian King Orontes III (also Yeruand or walls, and approaching from the E, you can find an over the remains of a pre-Christian worship site. Yervand I, r. 220-201) to house idols of the gods alley of sorts that leads to the crest, which is itself Outside the village (Note these sites are in the the remains of royal ancestors, and the treasury, hemmed in by trace walls. The ground is littered Overnight at village home (rustic; 3000-4000 Border zone and are off-limits to most people. You brought from the old capital of Armavir which was with pottery shards and locals often find more AMD for B&B is fair); camping near village (flat need a permit from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs left dry after the Arax River shifted 5 km south. valuable artifacts after strong rains. lands, no trees); springs in village. which is best gotten by someone who has business

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Bagaran was built on the right bank of the important religious center until the conversion of Akhurian River, immediately after he established the state. Not to be outdone, their rivals the Byzantines, The Turkish side has the ruins of the important S. his new capital in Yervandashat at the confluence under Basil I (867-886) sent a crown and Theodore, which was built between 624 and 631 of the Akhurian and Arax Rivers. One of the most important rituals attributed to declaration recognizing the Bagratuni kingdom. for Prince Bout (Butyl) and later for his wife Anna. Bagaran took place in the sacred woods, in a grove Thus began the Bagratuni kingdom (885-1045), The church is a domed cruciform with the dome Yervand established his brother Yeruaz (Yervanz or of Plane Trees. Priests and the elect were said to which had its initial capital at Bagaran. resting over 4 pillars. Yervand) there as high priest of the Armenian have been able to predict the future by listening to pantheon, and established a sacred forest at the the rustling of the leaves; the ‘voices of the gods’. The ducal palace (replaced later by the royal The church became a model for western site, populated by animals and called Ts’nendots palace) was built on an acropolis, the city formed churches—one being the Carolingian Oratory of the Antar (“new born forest”). During his reign Later, when the Sassanids decimated the Parthian on three hills encircled by a large wall. At the villa Episcopal Théodulphe (806) at Germigny des Bagaran became the religious center for the (Partev) House and claimed the Persian throne, same time, the churches of S. Theodore and S. Pres, France, built for Charlemagne. The architect Armenian kingdom. one of the Parthian princes, Kamsar, escaped to Shushanik were built (see below). for Théodulphe, Odo, who also designed the Armenia with his family. T’rdat III the Great (287- cathedral of Aachen, was an Armenian. 330) granted to Kamsar the provinces of Shirak Ashot died in Karspar near Bagaran and was and Yeraskhadzor, and appointed him to senior buried in the family sepulchre. On his death one In 1909 the dome was destroyed but the walls status. son Smbat was crowned, and another, the remain more or less stable. The church site is Shapuh, inherited Bagaran. now used as a border guard office. Yeraskhadzor was then renamed Arsharunik after Kamsar’s son, Arshavir, and its possessions In 890 Smbat I (890/91-914) moved the capital of On the Armenian side of the border is the small S. included old Bagaran, which became the the kingdom to Yeraskavors (Shirakavan), Shushanik Church was probably built in the 9th- Kamsarakan Seat of Power. And thus began the establishing his seat at Ani. 10th century, over the place of a Pagan shrine. Kamsarakan House of princes. The red tufa building was a ‘Hexaconque’, or six- Bagaran continued to flourish as a stop on the sided central dome church with niche buttresses in Forming alliances with rivals nakharars the transit trade route from there to the West, and as each side. and Arshakunis, the a supplier of fruit to the royal table. It was expanded their lands and power, soon rivaling the destroyed during Seljuk attacks in 1048, rebuilt Shapuh Sassanid silver coin, ca. 241, showing Zoroastrian ruling Arshakuni House. Overplaying their hand, and then destroyed permanently by the Timurids fire column the Kamsarakans were almost wiped out during an in 1394. insurrection against Arshak II in the mid 4th The founder of the Artashesian dynasty, Artashes I century. They were further decimated in the 772 One branch of Bagratuni family in the middle of (, 190 BC - 160 BCE) occupied Bagaran revolt against Arab rule, and forced to sell their 9th c established the Georgian Bagratuni kingdom and Yervandashat when he took power, killing lands to Ashot IV (the Meat Eater) Bagratuni in which ended in 1801 when the country was Yervand and his brother and giving 500 of Yeruaz’ 780. They then left for Asia Minor where they annexed to Russia. servants to his favorite general Smbat, who settled reestablished their dynasty in the Byzantine them in a new city in Masis canyon, which they empire. The complex Most of the site is across the border also named Bagaran. in Turkey, but some parts are in Armenia. The Ashot established his dynastic center at Bagaran, Turkish side includes traces of the walls, the main building a family palace and sepulchre inside he palace, residences and temples/churches. A walled city. In 790 he was made Armenian Prince cemetery and small church are on the Armenian of Princes and lived at Bagaran until his death in side. 826. Overnight at village home may be possible but up to the border guards (rustic; 3000-4000 AMD for Arab revolts occurred throughout the Arab B&B is fair); springs in village. Caliphate (652-858), the strongest led by the Mamikonians in 747-750 and 774 and the son of  From Bagaran continue SE on the Yervandashat Ashot the IV, Bagrat Bagratuni in 850. The Arab road for about 4 km to central Caliphate finally recognized Armenian autonomy YERVANDASHAT (DD 40.12707 x 43.73250, by appointing Ashot as Armenian Sparapet (855- elev. 1196m) + O Silver Arab coin, ca. 692 862) and then Prince of Princes over the Armenian Caliphate. Ashot used this position to create an ² YERVANDASHAT - ºðì²Ü¸²Þ²î Artashes had the idols moved to his new capital army of 40,000 well trained soldiers and surround H  (formerly Kheyri-Begli, also downriver at Artashat (), the ‘Joy of himself with Armenian Ishkhans led by Gevorg II (ºñí³Ý¹³ß³ï) Artashes’ and reputedly designed by the Garnetsi Catholicos (877-897), becoming king in spelled Ervandashat, pop. 500) is S of the site of Carthaginian general . In spite of the 885. The Calpiphate immediately recognized him, the historic capital of Armenia, which now lies in removal of its idols, Bagaran remained an sendig a crown and royal raiment in the same ruins across the border at the confluence of the year. Arax and Akhurian River.

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The Orontids (Yervandunis) established their reign discovered varieties of Poppy. The best time to The ancient capital (one of three in Armavir) was over Armenia around the time of the Scythian and visit is late April-May. established ca. 302 BCE by King Orontes (Eruand Median invasion in the 6th century BCE, or at the or Yervand) II (317-300), who is said in a 5th end of the Urartian Empire at the hands of Overnight at village home (rustic; 3000-4000 century history to have been forced to move his Scythians and (ca. 610 BCE) Orontids ruled AMD for B&B is fair); camping near village (flat Seat when the Arax River moved 5 kilometers S, over the Kingdom of for a short while and lands, no trees); springs in village. leaving the original capital of Old Armavir high and in Commagene until the year 72. dry. In reality the move had more to do with  From Yervandashat backtrack to Bagaran and political expediency and Yervand’s alleged paranoia Most get confused with the names, which have take the (H18) east for about 15 km to and fear of court intrigues and the instability of his been bandied about by Azeris and Armenian (Vanand, DD 40.10219 x 43.82227, elev. reign. nationalists to prove or disprove Armenia’s origins. 1015m) + 4 O In fact the name “Orontes” is the Hellenized form Embarking on the massive construction project, of a masculine name of Iranian origin; Yervand in SIDE TRIP: Vanand - ì³Ý³Ý¹ (pop. 1200) was Yervand included in the fortress plans the creation Armenian. The name is only used in Greek founded 1984 from a collective and is the of an inordinate number of secret rooms and cells (Gr.:Ὀρόντης), which adoption by western improbable modern capital of a medieval embedded in the walls for his retinue, supporters historians has led to much of the confusion. nomadic terrain, the so-called Saadli mahal of and soldiers. When completed, he moved the the Safavid and Qajar Armenian domains. Once state treasury and many of the residents of the old An Avestan connection is Auruuant (brave, hero) a major center of Armenian activity (the Arax capital at Armavir. He then had built the religious and Middle Persian Arvand. Some say it is tied to River still runs plentiful throughout the year center of Bagaran across the canyon, and a little the Hittite name Arnuwanda. The Hittites are said and the region was once teeming with orchards, north of the capital he built Yervandakert in some histories to be one of the origin tribes for fields and villages), the area was taken over in Dastakert, his country estate. the Armenians. the late medieval period by nomadic Kurds, Shaddadids and Yezidis. Armenians began to Early excavators noted both the strength of the Nature The river gorge is a native habitat for the reclaim the area in the 19th century, but it massive walls (secured by copper locks at the endangered Persian toad headed lizard remained mainly empty until the 1970s when gates) and the number of cells—far more than (Phrynocephalus persicus), which is already extinct the Soviet authorities tried to repopulate and found in any fortress excavated to that time. He in Echmiadzin region, and live sonly in pockets in industrializes the area. strengthened the entrance to the city and bored the rest of the marz. tunnels to the bottom of the hill in order to take Overnight at village home (rustic; 3000-4000 water during times of siege. The ruins are on the ridge overlooking the AMD for B&B is fair); camping near village (flat Akhurian at its confluence with the Arax River, lands, no trees); springs in village. The locks and secret chambers could not save an about halfway between modern Yervandashat and unstable reign, and Yervand lost his crown and city Bagaran (2 km N of Yervandashat). The site is  Return to Armavir by continuing SE on the to Artashes I, a rival kinsman whose battle against also opposite old Bagaran, which became the (H18) for 9 km to the (M5); turning L (NE) and Yervand was instigated by the Seleucid king religious center for the kingdom in the late 3rd continuing another 14 km to the town limits. Antiochus III, who was losing grip over the century. renegade country. Yervandashat (literally “a lot of Yervand” or “the  END OF TRIP 4 Winning the battle, Artashes took Yervandashat power of Yervand”) was destroyed by the Persian and had Yervand and his brother (and head priest King Shapuh II (353-372) in the mid . In the of the temple) killed. He then declared Armenia 360s AD, Yervandashat was destroyed and what independent of the Seleucids, establishing the have been preserved today are traces of houses, ² ² ² ² ² Artashesian dynasty (189 BCE-1). Artashes streets and city fortifications. Recent archeological moved the capital to his new capital at Artashat. digs have uncovered extensive waterworks and signs of the villas, the palace and gardens Until the 4th century Yervandashat was one of the celebrated in Movses Khorenatsi’s 5th century biggest cities but the army of the Sassanid king History of Armenia. Shapur II occupied Yervandashat, forced 20,000 Armenian families to flee and ruined the city. The Akhurian River gorge has traces of an Orontid Afterwards Yervandashat became a small bridge connecting Yervandashat to the fortress of settlement, never recovering its former glory. Yervandakert on the opposite bank of river.

About the Orontids The Orontid dynasty is said Nearby is a 4-5th c. ruined basilica. to have originated in Armenia around 400 BCE first ruling from Old Armavir, and then Yervandashat. Flora the Akhurian canyon is home to several endemic species of flora, including newly

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“Byzantium The Early Centuries,” John Julius (Armenian Foundation of Seismic Protection Echmiadzin RESOURCESB H  Norwich (Knopf, New York) Yerevan, 2000) en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Echmiadzin

READINGS “The Byzantine Empire, A Political History 1025- “Armenia Traveler Encyclopedia,” K. S. whc..org/en/list/1011 “Early Christian Architecture of Armenia,” Murad 1204,” Michael Angold (Longman, London and Khudaverdian, S. S. Arevshatian, V. N. Beliy, en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Echmiadzin_Gospels Hasratian (Yerevan, 2000) New York) Sh. G. Khachatrian, A. V. Kakosian, E. L. Melkonian (Armenian Soviet Encyclopedia, en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Armenian_Apostolic_C “Architectural Ensembles of Armenia,” O. K. "The Armenians," Sirapie Der Nersessian (New Yerevan, 1990) hurch Khalpakhchian (Iskusstvo Publishers, Moscow York: Praeger Publishers, 1970) www.etchmiadzin.com 1980) “Wetlands in Armenia – their values and threats "The Ancient Civilization of Urartu: An and their contribution to sustainable www.tacentral.com/echmiadzin “Compositions of Domed Structures in Georgia Archeological Adventure," Boris B. Piotrovsky development and poverty alleviation,” HPDF and Armenia” (R. Agababian, Yerevan 1950) Metsamor (New York: Coules Co. 1969) FILE “The History of Armenian Architecture” (V. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metsamor "The People of the Hills," by Charles Burney & “First National Report to The Convention on

Arutunian, Yerevan 1985) David Marshall Long (London: Baylis & Son, Biological Diversity incorporating A Country www.tacentral.com/history/metsamor.htm 1971) “Armenian Architectural Monuments” (V. Study on the Biodiversity of Armenia” HPDF Sardarapat

Arutunian and S. Safarian, Moscow, 1951) "The Armenians," by John M. Douglas (J. J. FILE ac.aua.am/skhachat/Web/memorial2.htm Winthrop Corp, 1992) “”Architettura Armena del quarto al RESOURCES ONLINE en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Sardarapat

diciannovesimo secolo,” P. Cuneo (Rome, "The Armenians, Their History and Culture," by www.hyeetch.nareg.com.au/genocide/sardar 1988) Ara Beliozian (AGBU Press, 1980) Regional abad_p1.html Armavir Marz “Armenian Civil Architecture (Dwelling Houses "Histoire de l’Armenie," by Pardejian Fast Growing Tree Project

and Public Buildings),” O. Khalpakchian www.armstat.am/Eng/Publications/2007/MA www.aesa.org

(Moscow, 1971) "Zoroastrianism in Armenia", by James Russell RZ_2006E/MARZ_2006E_26.pdf www.hetq.am/eng/ecology/7154/ Armavir Flora “Domed Cross Compositions in Armenia and the “Armenian Khachkars” (Editions Erebuni, 1978) Armavir paragliding

www.paragliding.am/content/view/17/32/ Byzantine Empire in the 5th to 7th www.koeltz.com/ “Armenian Medieval Churches,” Swiss Institute Centuries,” S. Mnatsakanian (Yerevan, 1989) Children of Armenia Fund for Technology, Department of Architecture Vordan Karmir www.coafkids.org “Materials on the History of Armenian (ETH, Zurich, 1996) www.reservepark.mnp.am/htmls_eng/region Architecture,” T. Thoromanian (Yerevan, Vol. “Architecture of the Soviet Armenia,” s_3.htm 1, 1948) History, Culture, Background

(Stroysdat, Moscow, 1986) www.rugreview.com/orr/8-5-40.htm Armenica “Old Armenian Architecture,” N. Tokarsky, www.rugreview.com/orr/8-5-42.htm www.armenica.org (Yerevan, 1946) “Russian Arkitektura Sovietskoy Armenie 20th Century,” (Sovietakan Grogh, Yerevan, 1980) Petroglyphs The “Armenian Architecture in the 4th to 14th Aghavnatun petroglyphs en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Armenian_nobility Centuries,” N. Tokarsky (Yerevan, 1961) “The Armenians: A Colossal Bibliographic Guide to Books Published in English,” (Armenian agbu.org/publications/article.asp?A_ID=167 www.armenian.ch “Armenian Architecture,” A. Zarian (Yerevan, Reference Book, 1993) Archeological Sites

1996) Aratashen Hye Etch “A Brief History of Armenia,” Rev Sarkis www.projectdiscovery.net/Grants/Grants_Fin www.hyeetch.nareg.com.au/ “A History of the Armenian People, Vol. 1,” Papajian, Mid-Cal Publishers, Fresno 1974. al%20Report_Badalyan.pdf

George A Bournoutian (Mazda Publishers, Armenian History "Armenia and Armenians, ” Dennis R. Papazian, Costa Mesa) Adablur www.armenianhistory.info/index.htm The University of Michigan, Dearborn, www.projectdiscovery.net/Grants/Grants_Fin

“The Armenian People, From Ancient to Modern September 8, 1987. al%20Report_Karapetyan.pdf Exhaustive Armenian History Times, Vol. 1,” Richard Hovannisian (St. penelope.uchicago.edu/Thayer/E/Gazetteer/Pl "A Very Brief History of Armenia,” Christopher Ancient Observatories Martin’s Press, New York) aces/Asia/Armenia/_Texts/KURARM/home.ht J. Walker, Printinfo, Yerevan, 2003 angelfire.com/hi/Azgaser/Metsamor.html ml “Armenia, A Journey Through History,” Arra "Forests and Their Significance for Mountainous www.astrologycom.com/armstone1.html Avakian (The Electric Press, Fresno) Eastern Asia Minor and the Caucasus in , V. Gabrielyan, A. Nalbandyan, N. Mythologies Darbinyan, Yerevan, 2001 Towers of Silence “The Heritage of Armenian Literature, Vol. 1 rbedrosian.com/mythint.htm en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Towers_of_Silence From the Oral tradition to the Golden Age,” "Unique Geological Monuments of Armenia: Agop Hacikyan, editor (Wayne State Orontid Dynasty Armenian Highland Guidebook for tourists, ” Ashot Avanessian, University Press, Detroit) en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orontid_Dynasty www.armenianhighland.com/ Edward Malkhassian and Sergey Nazaretyan,

Armavir Marz: page 92 of 94 - © 2008 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide®

Geology Birds of Armenia Project www.noteshairenik.blogspot.com remarkable patience and good humor with wide-

www.nature-ic.am/biodiv/index%20eng.html cac-biodiversity.org/arm/index.htm eyed professors wanting to know where the nearest shopping mall was (God give us patience Minerals Plant Genetic Resources in the Caucasus and and a good dose of Pantalgin). She then worked

H www.unece.org/env/europe/monitoring/Arm Central Asia www.cac- ABOUTB THE AUTHORS H H at the World Food Program in Armenia as enia/en/Part%20I%20-%20Ch.6.pdf biodiversity.org/arm/arm_biodiversity.htm Rick Ney (author) first came to Armenia in 1992 administrator and Program Officer. In her to work at the American University of Armenia. In “State of the Environment 2000,” Grid-Arendal, previous life Bella worked with International 1993 he began his work in humanitarian aid and Ecology United Nations Environment Programme architects at ArmStateDesign Institute as an development for USAID-funded projects at the information program assistant and translator. She www.nature-ic.am/ enrin.grida.no/htmls/armenia/soe2000/eng Armenian Assembly of America and Fund for is currently Executive Director of the NGO Historic

nature.iatp.irex.am/ Architecture Democracy and Development, the latter as Armenian Houses. History and architecture are Caucasus Region Director. This morphed into her true loves and she has traveled to China,

www.mnp.am/ armenianstudies.csufresno.edu/ writing about Armenia for various publications, Thailand, Malaysia, , Germany, and Lebanon which became the first English language complete and throughout the former Soviet Union. Bella http://www.nature- www.thais.it/architettura/default.htm guide to Armenia in 1996 (online) and 1998 (CD- tops this off by maintaining her membership in the ic.am/NCSA/Publication/SPAN_eng.pdf ROM). It has since become an online resource, World Esperanto Association. Saluton! www.armenian.ch/armenia/Pages/ETHZ/ Red Book visited by more than 24 million unique visitors

Carpets, Rugs ( www.TACentral.com and Thanks to: (Region): Boris Gasparyan for http://grants.iatp.irex.am/red_book/extinct_ animals.htm www.TourArmenia.info). Rick is passionate about detailed info and critique of the prehistoric www.armsite.com/rugs Armenia’s deep history, amazing ecology, and material; (General): to Tigran Nazaryan and Mountains making the country accessible for independent Christine Karapetian for their insightful comments, www.armeniafest.com/schedule/carpets1.html www.masis.am/mounts/?lang=eng travelers, whom he believes will be the basis of advice, trips into the wilderness and challenging

www.zangezur.tripod.com/rugs/armrug.html Armenia’s entry into the open world. In 2000 he ideas; to Gagik Gurjian from the Ministry for Masis.am Flora began dividing his time between Armenia and Historical Preservation, who has been showing me www.masis.am Information, Guides caring for a parent in Texas, both of which he the intricacies of Armenia’s cultural monuments considers the richest experiences of his life. and their influences since 1992, leading me to PGRCAC Maps of Armenia (to buy) some of the mot amazing places and events I have cac-biodiversity.org/arm/index.htm www.mapsworldwide.com/sec.asp?secid=29 Rafael Torossian (research, maps, and graphics) been, as well as to the large vat of killer Voskevaz has been collaborating with Rick on TourArmenia Eco Agrotourism in South Caucasus (excellent wine in his garden; to Stepan Ter-Margaryan & Maps of Armenia (to look) since 1996, providing some much needed reality

maps) the folks at the Institutes of History and www.reliefweb.int/rw/rwb.nsf/doc404?OpenF checks and commentary along the way. In his eatsc.com Archeology branches of the National Academy for orm&cc=arm&rc=3 other life Rafael designs flash sequences, ads, their help on pointing me to original sources and graphics and web sites for TWRI, for a variety of Ecotourism.com ArmeniaGuide.com exhaustive original information on destinations; to sites and content management projects. In a ecotourismarmenia.com Sam Stepanian for his eternal support; to Arminco, Visa Information, Foreign Ministry previous life Rafi was a field and track athlete, Grisha Saghian and Vahan Yerkanian for their EcoTeam Development www.armeniaforeignministry.com setting the All Armenia record (still unbroken) for support, the creation of the first edition on CD, link users.freenet.am/%7Eecoteam the 60 meter dash, then as Assistant to the ups and links to culture and more. To E-Visa Minister for Sports, serving (surviving) 6 ministers, ArmeniaNow.com for giving me the chance to Weather Forecasts www.armeniaforeignministry.am/eVisa before meeting Rick, when they worked together

share this material to their world. And to R and L. tacentral.com/weather.asp on several humanitarian aid projects managed by www.virtualarmenia.am TMB. the Armenian Assembly of America and Fund for Climate Change Info Center-Armenia

www.armgate.org Democracy and Development. In a world where nature.am/Index.htm NOTICE: Though intended to provide information engineers are taxi drivers, Rafi became the finance about Armenia, this guide in no way is meant to be ERMC News, Books manager for these projects, creating the first a recommendation or guarantee of the kind of grida.no/enrin/htmls/armenia/soe_armenia/e multi-denomination accounting system for USAID www.ArmeniaNow.com experience you will have in your travels. Places nglish/ermcaua/ermc.htm projects in the Caucasus, tracking currency that and prices change—often overnight—as do services inflated at one time 150% per day. Rafi is an www.abrilbooks.com and quality. That great place we found one time National Academy of Sciences of Armenia Honored Coach of the Republic of Armenia and can completely change the next, or start price- sci.am www.stvartanbookstore.com lives in Yerevan, a proud Yerevantsi who did not gouging once it learns it is becoming popular. leave during the dark years of 1991-1995. Protected Areas of Armenia Some simply disappear. We strive to make this www.littlearmenia.com grida.no/enrin/biodiv/biodiv/national/armenia/p guide as accurate as possible at the time of Bella Karapetian (Editing, Translations, Russian roarea/prot.htm Armenian House Literature writing, but often by the time of printing things Edition) first met Rick in 1993 when she came to www.cac-biodiversity.org/arm/index.htm have changed, and we begin the process of

the American University and worked in his office as Birds of Armenia updating. We do not guarantee any service, price

Faculty services Manager and Special Events http://www.armeniabirding.info Blogs or venue listed herein, nor the type of experience Coordinator. There she had the chance to use her you will have in your visit. Neither the authors nor

Armavir Marz: page 93 of 94 - © 2008 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® the publishers assume responsibility for the services provided by any business listed in this guide; for any errors or omissions; or any loss, damage, or disruptions in your travel for any reason. No fee, service, or discount of any kind was received by any business listed here for inclusion or recommendation. Advertisements included in TourArmenia guides pay for inclusion, the income used to defray cost of publishing. Their inclusion is in no way meant to be a recommendation by TourArmenia or its authors, and do not necessarily represent the views of the authors on their services. TourArmenia is written by an opinionated author with distinct views about the country and traveling in Armenia. The views expressed here in no way represents the views or opinions of others involved in the process of creating this guide, the publisher or ArmeniaNow.com.

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