This is a daily collection of all sorts of interesting stuff for you to read about during the trip. The guides can’t cover everything; so this is a way for me to fill in some of those empty spaces about many of the different aspects of this fascinating culture.

THE Once Upon a TIMES OF INDIA

PUBLISHED FOR EDDIE’S KOSHER TRAVEL GUESTS, WITH TONGUE IN CHEEK OCTOBER 2014

בן בג בג אומר: ”הפוך בה והפוך בה, דכולא בה“ )אבות ה‘( INDIA! - An Explorer’s Note Thanks to Eddie’s Kosher still dark. Thousands of peo- concept completely. Do not WELCOME Travel and you, I am coming ple were all over the place look upon India with western back to India now for the waiting for trains, I imagine, eyes, and do not judge it. If TO INDIA! 25th time; and every time I’m and sleeping on the station you do, you will diminish not quite sure what type of platforms. Here too, many both it and your experience. India I will find. Over the beggars are already at "work" Learn it. Feel it. Imbibe it. years that I have travelled coming up to me with hands Accept it. Wrap your head here regularly, I have grown outstretched. While I under- around it. Understand it for to love India, specially its stand the Indian worldview of what it is. For it is India. people, who seemed to have caste and karma, and why by an attitude of "there is always and large no one helps the When I was here for the first room for one more." I find poverty stricken, I find it time in 1999, India’s popula- the people in India to be pa- very, very disturbing. Some- tion passed the 1 billion tient and tolerant. I wonder times, it makes me angry. I mark. Now they’re at 1.2 what I will find this time? know of Sikh temples in nu- billion. That’s a growth of merous places in India that 20% in 15 years! That’s why I India is one of the most di- Holy cows still walk the often say that there are many verse nations in the world. In streets (of course), even in Indias, and one place can be area, it is the seventh largest the big cities. Road rules are the complete opposite to country, and in population it definitely recommendations another. In fact, one place is second only to China (and only! The rickshaw driver can be the complete opposite that is anticipated to change who picked me up once be- to the place across the somewhere between 2019 fore drove on the wrong side street. Thus it is in India – a and 2025). Within its geo- of the street, or in the oppo- land of many contrasts, many graphical confines, stretching site direction to the traffic, nuances. Multifaceted would from the Great Himalayas in the north to the tropical but that didn't stop him from be an incomplete way to southern peninsula, there is a hurtling full speed into the describe India. Albeit it is dizzying variety of cultures, oncoming traffic, honking like that; but it’s much, much languages, ethnic groups, a lunatic, until a gap enabled more. beliefs and lifestyles that few him to whiz across the street countries or even continents onto the correct side. What provide daily free meals for India remains one of my most possess. The past is ever pre- a riot! tens of thousands of people; favourite of destinations. My sent and centuries-old forts but the usual replies I have primary aim on this journey and temples happily coexist Another feature of Indian received from the haves re- is to turn it into one of yours with the modern. It’s a society that comes back to garding the have-nots is that too. Enjoy the very experi- crowded society and per- me is the huddled masses this is the way Indian society ence of opening your mind to sonal space is an unknown that populate the streets and operates, and that's the way something else. That too, concept. But it is an inher- intersections everywhere. I it is. Caste and Karma. To after all, is India. ently tolerant, friendly soci- once arrived to Delhi Central begin to understand India ety, welcoming and hospita- Railway Station while it was means to first absorb this ble. Menahem A VERY BRIEF HISTORY OF INDIA כי אלף שנים בעיניך כיום אתמול כי יעבור ואשמורה בלילה - תהילים צ:ד

The history of India is one of tion. Historically part of an- Vamsa), Kuru, Panchala, Colonial Era: From the 16th the grand epics of world his- cient India, it is one of the Matsya, Surasena, Assaka, century, European powers tory and can be best described world's earliest, urban civili- Avanti,Gandhara, and Kam- such as Portugal, Netherlands, in the words of India's first zations, along with Mesopota- boja. France and the United King- Prime Minister Jawaharlal mia and Ancient Egypt. In- dom established trading posts Nehru as "a bundle of contra- habitants of this era devel- Persian and Greek Con- in India. Later, they took ad- dictions held together by oped new techniques in met- quests: Much of the North- vantage of internal conflicts strong but invisible threads". allurgy and handicraft and west subcontinent (currently and established colonies in Indian history can be charac- produced copper, bronze, lead Afghanistan and Pakistan) the country. terized as a work in progress, and tin. came under the rule of the a continuous process of rein- Persian Achaemenid Empire The British Rule: The British vention that can eventually Early Historic Period in C. 520 BCE under the rule Rule in India began with the prove elusive for those seek- of Darius the Great and re- coming of the British East ing to grasp its essential char- The Vedic Period is distin- mained so for two centuries. India Company in 1600 and acter. guished by the Indo-Aryan In 326 BCE, Alexander the continued till Indian inde- culture which was associated Great conquered Asia Minor pendence from British rule in The history of this astonishing with the texts of Vedas, sa- and the Achaemenid Empire, 1947. sub continent dates back to cred to Hindus, and that were when he reached the North- almost 75000 years ago with orally composed in Vedic west frontier of the Indian The Indian Independence the evidence of human activ- Sanskrit. The Vedas are some subcontinent he defeated King Movement: ity of Homo sapiens. The of the oldest extant texts, next Porus and conquered most of In the 20th century Mahatma Indus Valley Civilization to those in Egypt and Meso- Punjab. Gandhi led millions of people which thrived in the north- potamia. The Vedic era in the in a national campaign of non western part of the Indian subcontinent lasted from The Maurya Empire, ruled -violent civil disobedience to subcontinent from 3300- 1300 about 1500-500 BCE, laying by the Mauryan Dynasty from contain independence from BCE was the first major civi- down the foundation of Hin- 322-185 BCE was a geo- the British. lization in India. duism and other cultural di- graphically extensive and mensions of early Indian soci- mighty political and military Independence and Partition: Following is the history of ety. The Aryans laid down empire in ancient India, estab- Religious tension between the India through the Ages: Vedic civilization all over lished in the subcontinent by Hindus and Muslims had been North India, particularly in Chandragupta Maurya in Ma- brewing over the years, espe- The Pre Historic Era the Gangetic Plain. gadha (present day Bihar) and cially in provinces like Punjab was it further thrived under and West Bengal. The Mus- The Stone Age began The Mahajanapadas period Ashoka the Great. lims were a minority and they 500,000 to 200,000 years ago saw the second major rise in did not feel secure in the pros- and recent finds in Tamil urbanization in India after the The Mughals: pect of an exclusively Hindu Nadu (at C. 75000 years ago, Indus valley Civilization. The In 1526, Babur, a descendant government and hence made before and after the explosion word "maha" means great and of Timur and Gengis Kahn them wary of independence. of the Toba Volcano) indicate the word "janapada" means from Fergana Valler (present All through this Mahatama the presence of the first ana- foothold of a tribe. In the later day Uzbekistan) swept across Gandhi called for unity tomically humans in the area. Vedic Age a number of small the Khyber Pass and estab- among the two religious Tools crafted by proto- kingdoms or city states had lished the Mughal Empire groups. The British, whose humans that have been dated mushroomed across the sub- which covered modern day economy had been weakened back to two million years continent and also find men- Afghanistan, Pakistan, India after World War 2, decided to have been discovered in the tion in early Buddhist and and Bangladesh. The Mughal leave India and participated in North-western part of the Jain literature as far back as dynasty ruled most of the the formation of an interim country. 1000 BCE. By 500 BCE, six- Indian subcontinent till 1600; government. The British In- teen "republics" or Mahajana- after which it went into de- dian territories gained inde- The Bronze Age in the Indian padas has been established, cline after 1707 and was fi- pendence in 1947, after being subcontinent dates back to namely; Kasi, Kosala, Anga, nally defeated during India's partitioned into the Union of around 3300 BCE with the Magadha, Vajji (or first war of Independence in India and the Dominion of early Indus Valley Civiliza- Vriji),Malla, Chedi, Vatsa (or 1857. Pakistan. This is a daily collection of all sorts of interesting stuff for you to read about during the trip. The guides can’t cover everything; so this is a way for me to fill in some of those empty spaces about many of the different aspects of this fascinating culture.

THE Once Upon a TIMES OF INDIA

PUBLISHED FOR EDDIE’S KOSHER TRAVEL GUESTS, WITH TONGUE IN CHEEK OCTOBER 2014

”כשמן הטוב היורד על הזקן“ )תהילים קלג: ב( The Jain Religion SIKHISM IN INDIA

Jainism, founded in the 6th literally “doors to the guru.” gave the Sikh community a dis- century BC, is based on a Nanak, the first of a series of tinctive religious identity, and doctrine of nonviolence to- ten gurus, chose his successor from then onwards they were wards all living beings. Jains from among his most devout meant to wear the Khalsa’s five are strict vegetarians, and the disciples. Gobind Singh (1666- symbols: kesh (long hair), kachha more orthodox ones cover 1708), the tenth and last guru, (underwear), kirpan (small their mouths to avoid inad- reorganized the community in sword), kangha (comb) and kara vertently swallowing living 1699 as a military order, the (bracelet). Their holy book, the organisms. Jains believe in Khalsa, to combat religious Guru Granth Sahib, is kept in 24 tirthankaras or crossing- presecution by the Mughals. He the Golden Temple in Amritsar. makers, enlightened beings who guide others across the "river of transmigration" (the journey of the soul from one life to the next). The first of With their characteristic tur- the tirthankaras was Adi- bans and full beards, the Sikhs nath, and the last was Ma- are easy to identify. The Sikh havira (born in 540 BC). religion is a reformist faith, Regarded as the religion's founded by Guru Nanak in the founder, his 2,600th birthday 15th century. Strongly opposed was in 2001. Jainism at- to idol worship, rituals and the tracted many followers caste system, it believes in a among the wealthy traders formless God. Sikhism is also and merchants of Western called the Gurmat, meaning “the India, who were also politi- Guru’s Doctrine” and Sikh tem- cally powerful as financiers ples are know as gurdwaras, and ministers. As acts of devotion and penance, they financed the building of sev- eral elaborately carved tem- ples in Gujarat and Rajast- han. Art of Chamba Rumals

Chamba rumals, exquisitely and an unbleached muslin embroidered handkerchiefs base were the framework or coverlets, generally square within which intricate com- in shape, were used primarily positions, inspired by deli- to wrap gifts, either for tem- cate Pahari miniatures, were ple offerings or for ceremo- created. Originally the work nial exchanges during wed- of the ladies of the court, the ding rituals. At times, they themes were religious, inter- also formed the canopies spersed with animal and draped above deities in tem- plant motifs, and enclosed ples. Pale colors, silk thread, within floral borders. a double-sided satin stitch INDIAN CUSTOMS EXPLAINED I ויגד הצופה לאמר בא עד אליכם ולא שב והמנהג כמנהג יהוא בן נמשי כי בשגעון ינהג - מלכים ב ט:כ

Regarded by many historians as the ringing of the bells and the chanting brass help in controlling the evils waves of the fulwaat, which is bet- "oldest living civilization of Earth", of prayers gives sound energy. The and germs. Its ringing also helps to ter to attract sattvik vibrations. India is also truly the richest culture effect of all these energies is acti- quiet the thoughts running in your in the world. vated by the positive energy that mind, before you sight ('darshan') Why do we remove shoes comes out of the idol. This is in the deity. while entering a temple or a The Indian traditions date back to addition to the north/ south pole Why do we do 'Abhishekam'? home or a kitchen? 8000 BCE, and have a continuous magnetic energy that is absorbed by Normally, abhishekam, or bathing Shoes are considered dirty in India, history since the time of the Vedas, the copper plate and utensils that the idol, is performed to the idols so we take off our shoes before believed variously to be 3,000 to are kept in the 'Moolasthan'. with Panchaamrita, which is a mix- stepping into someone’s house or over 5,500 years ago. Indian tradi- ture of cow milk, curds, pure ghee, their kitchen. We don’t step on tions are most intriguing and per- The water used for the Pooja is sugar and honey. Devotees also mix anything important and if you do, haps one of the world's most inter- mixed with Cardamom, Benzoine, banana and coconut water in we immediately express our apolo- esting as it unveils an amazing pleth- Holy Basil (Tulsi), Clove, etc is the Panchaamrita. After completing the gies. ora of mythical stories that as- "Theertham". This water becomes abhisheka, the panchaamrita is con- tounds the imagination. India is a more energized because it receives sumed by the devotees as teertha. It Why do a 'Namaskar' or blend of diverse cultures and relig- the positive-ness of all these ener- is said that panchaamrita has medici- 'Namaste'? ions that have continuously influ- gies combined. When persons go to nal values and will provide health Namaste, namaskar or Namaskara enced Indian traditions. Ancient the temple for Deep-aaraadhana, and nourishment to the body. How- or Namaskaram, Vanakkam(Tamil), concepts like karma, dharma, atman and when the doors open up, the ever, since it is used for worship- Nomoshkaar (Bengali), Nomoskar (re-birth) and yoga still govern daily positive energy gushes out onto the ping the god, there are spiritual (Assamese) is a common spoken lives of Indians. persons who are there. The water values too attached to this teertha. greeting or salutation, expressing that is sprinkled onto deep respect. However, the same Here are some of India's ancient the people passes on Why do we do an hands folded gesture is made usually traditions explained: the energy to all. 'Aarti' and garlanding? wordlessly upon departure. The That is the reason Performing aarti and word is derived from Sanskrit Why visit Temples and do a why, men are not garlanding are acts of (namah): to bow, obeisance, rever- 'pradkshina'? allowed to wear veneration and love for ential salutation, and respect, and Generally, temples are strategically shirts to the temple the diety. Aarti consists (te): "to you". As explained by an located in a place where earth's and ladies have to of a dish that carries five Indian scholar, in literal terms Na- magnetic waves pass through i.e. wear more orna- small metal lamps along maste refers to 'That which is of where the positive energy is abun- ments because it is with cotton, few rice God in me bows to that which is of dantly available from the magnetic through these jewels grains and arecanut. A God in you'. In the modern context, wave distribution of north/ south (metal) that positive energy is ab- conchshell filled with water, auspi- wouldn't it be more hygienic to pole thrust. Because of its location, sorbed in ladies. It is proved that cious leaves or flowers, incense or offer a 'Namaskar', instead of shak- where high magnetic values are Theertham is a very good blood lighted camphor are also placed in ing hands? In most Indian families, available, the Main Idol is placed in purifier, as it is highly energized. the tray. The lamps are lit and the younger men and women are taught the center, and also because they tray is rotated in a circular motion to seek the blessing of their elders place a copper plate written with In addition, temples offer holy water in front of the deity or the person by reverentially bowing to their some Vedic scripts, which is buried, (about three spoons). This water is to be welcomed. The purpose of elders. This custom is known as beneath the Main Idol's placement mainly a source of magneto therapy performing arati is to ward off evil Pranama. known as "Garbhagriha" or as they place the copper water effects and the malefic influence of "Moolasthan", the copper absorbs vessel at the 'Garbhagriha'. It also the ‘evil eye’. The camphor fire and Why do we take a bath daily? the earth’s magnetic waves and contains cardamom, clove, saffron, flower garlands give out chemical Apart from personal hygiene there radiates to the surroundings. etc to add taste and Tulsi (holy energies that can absorb the nega- are other aspects too. Maharshi Basil) leaves are put into the water tive energies. Vatsyayana has described the vari- Thus a person who regularly visits a to increase its medicinal value! The ous power centres and electric temple and makes clockwise clove essence protects one from Only ghee must be used (better impulses in a human body. A con- 'pradakshina' of the Main Idol's tooth decay, the saffron & Tulsi than oil), as Agni Puran states that tinuous process of generation and placement, automatically receives leave essence protects one from ghee is more saatvik than oil, at- consumption of electric energy the beamed magnetic waves which common cold and cough, cardamom tracting more saatvik vibrations and takes place in the human body. get absorbed by his body. This is and benzoine known as Pachha its effect can be felt many hours Polygraphic studies proved that very slow and a regular visit will Karpuram, acts as a mouth refresh- after burning. Ghee lamp also acti- water enhances electro-magnetic make him absorb more energy, ing agents. This way, one's health vates the naadi which is most essen- activity. In the context of this find- known as positive energy. In addi- too is protected, by regularly visit- tial to the worshipper and also ing, the religious practices like tion, the Sanctum Sanctorum is ing Temples! strengthens the Pranamaya kosha washing hands and feet before en- completely enclosed on three sides. and Manomaya Kosha. tering temples and taking bath eve- The effect of all energies is very high Ghantaa-naadam (Reason be- ryday, worshipping with wet clothes in here. hind ringing of the bell) Lastly, a straight wick (waat) should and offering prayer standing in the Ghantaa or bell has a significant be used instead of a puffed wick or middle of water chest-deep in rivers The lamp that is lit radiates the heat place in the process of worship. fulwaat (which offers stability to and tanks etc., seem to be more and light energy. The fragrance from While the bell made of gold and stand in the centre), because vibra- scientific than a mere act of cleanli- the flowers, the burning of camphor silver produce mild sound it is said tions emitted from straight wick are ness. gives out chemical energy. The that the bells made of copper or in the form of waves v/s circular This is a daily collection of all sorts of interesting stuff for you to read about during the trip. The guides can’t cover everything; so this is a way for me to fill in some of those empty spaces about many of the different aspects of this fascinating culture.

THE Once Upon a TIMES OF INDIA

PUBLISHED FOR EDDIE’S KOSHER TRAVEL GUESTS, WITH TONGUE IN CHEEK OCTOBER 2014

”תשלח קצירה עד ים ואל נהר יונקותיה“ )תהילים פ: יג( & Foods Flavors of India THE RIVER GANGES India is well known for its Rising in an ice cave 4,140m high civilizations have flourished on that to bathe in its waters is to multiplicity of foods and in the Himalayas, the Ganges its banks, which are today lined be absolved of all sins, and to be flavors that criss-cross this flows for 2,525 km through the with teeming cities, fertile paddy cremated on its banks and have vast land. Let’s examine a mountains of Uttarkhand, and fields, and innumerable temples one’s ashes immersed in its few: the vast plains of Uttar Pradesh, and ghats. For, above all, the waters ensures eternal salvation The Flavors of Delhi and Bihar and Bengal, before enter- Ganges is India’s main spiritual of the soul. the North ing the sea in the Bay of Bengal. and religious artery, sacred to The Myth of the Ganges Several culinary strands Throughout the ages, great millions of Hindus who believe cross the region of Delhi. holds that the celestial River Wheat is the staple food and Ganga was brought to earth a variety of breads (rotis) are by sage Bhagiratha so that baked in a tandoor, a domed he could sprinkle her holy clay oven. Rich curries, lega- water on the ashes of his cies of the imperial kitchen, ancestors, who were struck as still prepared, as are the down by Lord Vishnu for post-Partition cuisine of tik- their wickedness. The river kas and dal makhani. Kash- water would ensure salva- miri flavors which also influ- tion for their souls. When ence the cuisine of the Delhi the ganga descended, Lord region, are a delicate blend Shiva broke her enormous of yoghurt, spices, aniseed, force by winding her dried ginger powder, red through his hair, to save the chillies and a pinch of asafet- earth from being destroyed ida or garlic. Rice is a stan- in a deluge. This myth is dard fare. Snacks in Delhi often depicted in paintings include chhole-bhatura (a and sculptures. combination of chickpeas and fried bread) and vegeta- ble pakhora (Indian tem- as well as vast dark green hearty meal. and yoghurt soup), types of pura). mango and litchi orchards. The Flavors of Rajasthan khidchi (rich rice prepara- The main culinary influence Rajasthan, largely scrub and tions) and breads made from is the sophisticated vegetar- desert dominated by hill forts bajra (millet). Pickles are ian cuisine from the Holy of stone, has a simple cuisine often made from green City of Varanasi. Subtlety dictated by the landscape and mango. and refinement are the main climate. As a result, the food features of vegetarian cook- here is more robust and ing. A regular meal com- strength-giving, as is evident prises lentils, a vegetable by the creative use of cereals dish, rice or roti (bread) with and lentils. Vegetarian food The Flavors of Central India pickles to add piquancy. dominated the cuisine of Since a large part of this re- Typical of Varanasi is sattvik Rajasthan, having been gion falls within the fertile or “pure” food, which is strongly influenced by Jain- Gangetic Plain, it’s rich in strictly vegetarian and lightly ism and Vishnavism, both of agricultural produce. Stretch- spiced, but without onions which forbid animal slaugh- ing across the land are end- and garlic. Paan (betel leaf) ter. Rajasthan’s cereal-based less fields of rice and wheat is served at the end of a diet includes kadhi (lentil INDIAN CUSTOMS EXPLAINED II והצב גלתה העלתה ואמהותיה מנהגות כקול יונים מתפפת על לבבהן - נחום ב:ח

Why should we meditate or The same logic may apply to the heart chakra. One of them, su- What is the importance of read during 'Braahmi Mu- mangalsutra (auspicious thread) shumna leads to the crown chakra, 'Swastika'? hurtham'? worn around the neck, as it consists and is said to be the path to Self- In the Ganesh Puran, it is said that The time 90 minutes prior to sun- of black beads along with a gold realization. the swastika is a form of Lord Ga- rise is called Braahmi Muhurtham. pendant. The black beads are be- ** On the Sri Yantra there are nesha, the remover of all obstacles. 'Braahmi' means Saraswathi, the lieved to act as protection against marmas where three lines intersect, In the Amarkosh, it is referred to as Goddess of intellect. The above evil. Gold helps increase energy and there are 54 such intersections. a pure and auspicious blessing. In specified time is auspicious for levels in the body and is symbol of Each intersections has masculine one of the hymns in the Rig-veda it gaining and sustaining intelligence prosperity. Married women wear and feminine, shiva and shakti quali- is said that the swastika is symbolic and knowledge, owing to which it is this to protect their marriage and ties. 54 times 2 equals 108. Thus, of Surya (Sun). People also consider called Braahmi Muhurtham. It is the life of their husband. In south- there are 108 points that define the the Swastika (‘Satiya’ or symbolic of during Braahmi muhurtham that Sun ern India, the mangalsutra is called Sri Yantra as well as the human the Sudarshan Chakra) as a symbol god spreads his light rays, which 'tali'. body. denoting plus (+) or prosperity. bring to life the cells and the brain. If the man can synchronize his Use of festoons (Toranam) and ** 108 is a Harshad number, which Religious texts explain that the eight senses with these rays during this turmeric at the door-steps is an integer divisible by the sum of arms of the swastika are symbolic of hour he will be empowered with Indians use a festoon (Toranam) its digits (Harshad is from Sanskrit, the earth, fire, water, air, sky, mind, unchallengeable electrical and mag- made of fresh and green mango and means "great joy") emotions and feelings. netic energy. This observation was leaves or Neem leaves at the main endorsed by sages. door of the houses or temples. The ** There are 54 letters in the San- The four main arms point in four air filled with carbon dioxide, which skrit alphabet. Each has masculine directions. The 4 dots represents is lighter than the pure air, gets and feminine, shiva and shakti. 54 the four eras - Satyug, Tretayug, purified immediately while passing times 2 is 108. Dwaparyug and Kalyug. The 4 arms through the festoon. In addition, or dots also represents the four insects get attracted to the green ** In astrology, there are 12 con- castes – Brahmins, Kshatriyas, Vai- leaves. This stops the insects from stellations or houses and 9 planets shyas and Shudras OR the four entering the room. It is beyond or arc segments. 12 times 9 equals ashrams of life too – Brahmacharya, doubt that turmeric has anti-septic 108. Grihast, Vanprasth and Sanyas. and anti-bacterial characteristics. Why do men do a 'tilak' and Turmeric applied on the door sill ** Some say that 1 stands for 1 God The four arms are also symbolic of married women a 'bindi' and stops bacteria or other microscopic or higher Truth, 0 stands for empti- the four basic aims of human pursuit 'mangalsutra'? organisms from making their way ness or completeness in spiritual – dharm (righteousness), arth The tilak or a bindi is applied on the into the house. Turmeric checks practice, and 8 stands for infinity or (prosperity), Kaam (passion) and spot between the brows which is every invisible organism. In addition, eternity. moksha (salvation). They are also considered the seat of latent wis- the yellow color makes the main symbolic of the four faces and four dom and mental concentration, and door colorful and is an aesthetic ** The diameter of the Sun is 108 hands of Brahma and of the four is very important for worship. This combination for the green festoon times the diameter of the Earth. Vedas – Rig-Veda, YajurVeda, Sam- is the spot on which yogis meditate on the top of the doorframe. The distance from the Sun to the Veda and atharva-veda. They are to become one with Lord Brahma. Earth is 108 times the diameter of also symbolic of the four constella- It also indicates the point at which Why do Hindus prefer to eat in the Sun. tions – Pushya (8th), Chitra (14th), the spiritual eye opens. All thoughts private? Shravan (22nd) and Revti (27th). and actions are said to be governed When anyone stares at someone or ** The average distance of the by this spot. Putting of the coloured something excessively with a nega- Moon from the Earth is 108 times In this way, the swastika is really mark symbolizes the quest for the tive intention, the negative vibra- the diameter of the Moon. symbolic of all the directions and of 'opening' of the third eye. All rites tions get focused with concentra- Gods and auspicious circumstances. and ceremonies of the Hindus begin tion on the person or thing and ** Tantra estimates the average with a tilak topped with a few grains cause damage. A hungry man with number of breaths per day at Why do many Hindu rituals of rice placed on this spot with the an evil eye is believed to poison 21,600, of which 10,800 are solar worship a kumari kanya? index finger or the thumb. The another’s food with his wicked energy, and 10,800 are lunar energy. Hinduism believes in the universal same custom is followed while stare. That is the reason why peo- Multiplying 108 by 100 is 10,800. creative forces to be feminine gen- welcoming or bidding farewell to ple like to eat in privacy. Multiplying 2 x 10,800 equals der. The very original force is Ma- guests or relations. 21,600. hamaya whose inspiration created Why do prayer beads number the gods and the rest of the cos- A bindi, applied on the forehead on 108? ** Meru bead is a larger bead, not mos. All the major and minor ener- the third eye, signifies pleasantly the Any mantra recited with the tradi- part of the 108. It is not tied in the gies and forces are represented by subsistence of her beloved husband. tional Hindu prayer beads (mala sequence of the other beads. It is various goddesses. Navratra deity Is it used as a charm to ward off evil having 108 beads) will be enhanced, the quiding bead, the one that Durga and all her dimensions are by un-married girls? Could be, be- due to several reasons like: marks the beginning and end of the believed to be the manifestations of cause it could compel other un- mala. It is also the custom not to the same basic inspiration Ma- known men to focus on the bindi ** Chakras in a human body are the cross over the Guru bead (top hamaya. Thus, a virgin girl is wor- rather than on her body. intersections of energy lines, and bead), but to go back and forth. shipped as a symbol of the pure there are said to be a total of 108 basic creative force. energy lines converging to from the This is a daily collection of all sorts of interesting stuff for you to read about during the trip. The guides can’t cover everything; so this is a way for me to fill in some of those empty spaces about many of the different aspects of this fascinating culture.

THE Once Upon a TIMES OF INDIA

PUBLISHED FOR EDDIE’S KOSHER TRAVEL GUESTS, WITH TONGUE IN CHEEK OCTOBER 2014

”ישושום מדבר וציה ותגל ערבה ותפרח כחבצלת“ )ישעיה לה: א( The Great Mughals INDIA’S LANDSCAPE & WILDLIFE The Mughals, like their con- India has an extraordinary diver- to the barren salt flats and THE DECCAN PLATEAU temporaries the Ottomans of sity of landscapes and vegeta- marshes of the Rann and Kutch. Separated from the Gangetic Turkey, the Safavids of Iran tion, supporting a rich variety of Plains by the scattered ranges of and the Tudors of England, wildlife. The country is bounded the Vindhyas, the Deccan Pla- were a powerful and influen- on the north by the majestic teau is covered with black vol- tial dynasty. They ruled India Himalayas. Along their foothills, for over 300 years, their em- canic soil and ancient crystalline sweeping the breadth of Central rocks. The plateau’s mineral pire extending at its height India, are the fertile, densely from Kandahar in the north- wealth includes gold and dia- populated Indo-Gangetic Plains, monds. west to Bengal in the east, while the arid Thar Desert cov- and from Kashmir in the ers much of Western India. THE GHATS north to the Deccan in the South of the Gangetic Plains is The hills of the Western and south. Great patrons of lit- the Deccan Plateau, flanked by Eastern Ghats are covered with erature, architecture, and arts and crafts, which reached the hills of the Eastern and forests of teak, rosewood, sal new heights under their pa- Western Ghats. India’s 7,516- and sandalwood, prized for its tronage, the Mughals estab- km long coastline borders on fragrance. Many orchid species lished a rich pluralistic cul- the Arabian Sea, the Indian THE GANGETIC PLAINS are also grown here. Ocean and the Bay of Bengal. ture, blending the best of The rich alluvial soil of these THE COASTS Islamic and Hindu traditions. THE ARID WEST vast plains, which stretch across The diverse landscapes of the The Thar Desert and the semi- India from the northwest to the coasts include sandy beaches in arid scrublands adjoining it sup- east, has been cultivated for Goa and Kerala, fringed by co- port a surprising variety of flora thousands of years. Today, rice conut palms, coral reefs in the and fauna. The sand dunes of as well as wheat, sugarcane and Andamans, and mangrove for- Rajasthan give way further west pulses are grown here. ests in West Bengal and Orissa. The Pax Brittanica

The foundations of British d'être of the Raj was eco- rule, or the Raj, were laid nomic profit and political after the Indian Mutiny of control, its abiding legacy The Mughal Empire flour- 1857, which revealed the was the political unification ished from 1526 until Au- unpopularity of the East In- of the subcontinent together rangzeb’s death in 1707. dia Company’s rule. By an with the introduction of After that the dynasty gradu- Act of Parliament in 1858, Western education, a central- ally declined under weak the Company’s rule ended, ized administrative system, rulers, and finally ended in and its Indian territories be- and a network 1857. It’s first six rulers came part of the British Em- of railways. were: Babur, Humayun, Ak- pire, to be ruled through a And cricket, of bar, Jahangir, Shah Jahan viceroy. Though the raison course... and Aurangzeb. FOOD IN INDIA אכל בכסף תשברני ואכלתי ומים בכסף תתן לי ושתיתי רק אעברה ברגלי - דברים ב:כח

India is a country of ancient lentils, vegetables and Roti pes but popular ingredients con- times and unlimited natural re- (round, flat wheat bread). North sist of fried or mashed potato sources. Its ancient culture, the Indian food is also noted for its with spices or minced meat, rivers, mountains and vegeta- high use of dairy products. Milk, cheese, mushroom or chick peas. tion, not to forget its exotic paneer, butter and yoghurt are spices, make the country a won- all used as either an ingredient in Because of the large Muslim derful place to visit or to live. the cooking process or served as population in North India, kebabs a side dish. and other meat dishes have be- Mark Twain once said: "So far as come very popular. I am able to judge, nothing has The Thali is a good example of a been left undone, either by man standard meal in North India and Dal or nature, to make India the would usually consist of Roti, most extraordinary country that rice and a selection of side Dals are a staple in Indian soci- the sun visits on his rounds. dishes. Sometimes you will only ety. You won't find many meals Nothing seems to have been get a couple consisting of a chut- that don't include a small side of forgotten, nothing overlooked." ney and a Dal (lentil gravy) but if Dal. you are lucky or go to a restau- Indian cuisine has many depths to rant specialising in Thalis you can Indian Dals or Dhals, as theyu Food in India it and each unique dish can be get up to 12 side dishes with are also known are kind of like a identified by different cooking things like fried vegetables, curd, lentil soup. Every region has a The food in India is just as di- techniques, by its region and by mango puree, chutneys, pickles, million different Dal recipes and I verse as its people and cultures. its chef. India's various religions the list goes on. A typical dessert When you're travelling in India and cultures have played a major would be a choice of sweet you start to get the impression part in modern day Indian food. meats which originated in Bengal. that it's not just one big country. For nearly two millenia, mass Things like Rasagulla (cheese It seems almost like it's made up immigration and religious and balls dipped in syrup), Sandesh of thousands of individual coun- cultural fusing along with its (coconut and sugar balls) and tries each with its own tradi- massive geographical differences Gulab Jamuns (cream, sugar, tions, culture but most noticea- (climate, altitude, etc) have had a flour and saffron). bly, flavour! huge influence on the evolution of food in India. Cuisine in the North utilises the Indian cuisine use of the 'Tawa' (griddle) for am sure that there is an endless Trade routes from the Middle baking the flat breads such as amount of variations. The sometimes overwhelming East, China and South East Asia Roti and Paranthas and the aroma of India is the light scent (Thailand, Cambodia etc) 'Tandoor" which is a large round Dal is what chicken soup is in the of roses and lavender flowing on brought a whole new range of oven used for baking Naan bread west - comforting food. Dals or the warm air mixing with the ingredients to light. Various oc- and Tandoori chicken. lentils, peas and beans are heavy fragrance of spices coming cupation such as the Portuguese cooked practically daily in almost from every home. Oils and spices and British brought a touch of The North also eat more meat every Indian home, vegetarian or are a vital part of pretty much the Mediterranean to Indian than the rest of the country, goat not. Each region has its own every aspect of Indian food and cooking. and lamb are popular, obviously favorites and cooking methods. are used to enhance the taste of North Indian Cuisine no steak (holy cows) and pork is Some are cooked with garlic and a dish. Exact blending methods rare because of the large Muslim ginger, in addition to the staple and combinations of flavours North Indian cuisine has some of population. spices of turmeric, cumin and have been passed down through the most exotic foods available in coriander. Dals can range from families for thousands of years so India and some say that if you are The Samosa has been a large part spicy-sweet to scorching hot, you're unlikely to eat two meals going to India for just the food, of North Indian lives for centu- soup like or like creamed thick that are the same. The English then the North is the place to ries and can now be found all soup or dry like a pilaf. Lentils word 'curry' translates to Hindi be. over India and the rest of the form an important part of any as 'Kari' which basically means The staple of North Indian cui- world. Each street seller or chef Indian meal and you can make it 'spice sauce'. sine consists predominately of will have their own secret reci- an important part of your diet.

Chapati Roti : Bread. Whole wheat flour. <> Chawal rice: Rice. <> Biryani: Main or Side Dish. Rice, optional spices and vegeta- bles. Can be served with plain yogurt. <> Naan: Oven-baked soft flatbread. Refined wheat flour. <> Paratha: Bread. Wheat flour. Can be stuffed with potato mixture, or paneer (cottage cheese), or muli (white radish). <> Chole Bhature: A Main course. Chick peas, assorted spices, wheat flour and yeast. <> Baati: ghee (clarified butter) and wheat flour. <> Bhatura: Bread. Wheat flour, fried. <> Rajma: A Main course. Kidney beans and assorted spices. <> Dal Makhani: A Main course. A typical type of lentil is used. <> Samosa: Potatoes, onions, peas, coriander and lentils. <> Kofta: Gram flour balls fried with vegetables. Gram flour, veggies, rolled into balls with gram flour and fried in oil and then cooked with curry. <> This is a daily collection of all sorts of interesting stuff for you to read about during the trip. The guides can’t cover everything; so this is a way for me to fill in some of those empty spaces about many of the different aspects of this fascinating culture.

THE Once Upon a TIMES OF INDIA

PUBLISHED FOR EDDIE’S KOSHER TRAVEL GUESTS, WITH TONGUE IN CHEEK OCTOBER 2014

”קסם על שפתי מלך במשפט לא ימעל פיו“ )משלי טז: י( Classical Music and BOLLYWOOD’S MAGIC FORMULA Dance Hindi films from Bollywood are subtitled in English for interna- Naire to make films that made a fascinating mix of romance; tional audiences. an impact on society. Indian music and dance are violence; comedy and tragedy, simultaneously modes of In the 1950s and 60s parallel or interspersed with song and “art” cinema was dominated by worship and a joyous cele- dance sequences and with a bration of life. Based on an- Satyajit Ray, whose thought clear social or moral message. provoking films portrayed eve- cient codified texts, they Ever since its inception in 1899, originated as a form of wor- ryday life in Indian villages and fashions in Bollywood have ship in the temples, and small towns. By focusing on swung from mythological epics gradually acquired a more realism and social issues rather to action thrillers to family dra- secular character with royal than fantasy and entertainment, patronage. Different regions mas. But the basic masala (spicy he paved the way for interna- of India have their own clas- mix) formula, which appeals to tionally acclaimed directors sical dance forms, while a large and diverse audience, such as Deepa Mehta and Mira classical music is distin- remains unchanged. guished by two main It costs anywhere between styles—Hindustani and Car- $1.75 million and $30 million to natic, the latter specific to produce a Bollywood film. The South India. budget is spent on massive fees for the stars, exotic locations, CLASSICAL DANCE special effects, and on huge promotional campaigns. Of the A wide range of hand ges- more than 100 films produced tures, facial expressions and every year (more than Holly- body postures codified in the wood!) some are dubbed into Natya Shastra, a 4th century regional Indian languages, or treatise, constitute the “language” of Indian classi- cal dance forms. Their themes are mostly based on religious mythology, and percussion and music play an Sacred Architecture important role. India’s 2,000-year-old archi- blocks, often richly carved the use of mortar, were intro- tectural heritage is intrinsi- with sacred imagery and duced in the 12th century by cally linked to the country’s decorative motifs. The true the Muslim conquerors. major religions. Indigenous arch and the dome, as well as forms include Buddhist stu- pas and monasteries and Hindu and Jain temples in diverse styles. Many Indian temples, however, share common structural character- istics, being mostly built of stone columns and horizontal THEATRE IN INDIA והצגני למשל עמים ותפת לפנים אהיה - איוב יז:ו

The earliest form of the theatre archeological evidence from ear- "sutradhara" is "holder of the Uttar Ramacharita. Among these of India was the Sanskrit theatre. lier periods offers no indication strings or threads". The perform- three, the last two cover be- It began after the development of of the existence of a tradition of ers were trained rigorously in tween them the entire epic of Greek and Roman theatre and theatre. The ancient Vedas vocal and physical technique. Ramayana. The powerful Indian before the development of thea- (hymns from between 1500 to There were no prohibitions emperor Harsha (606-648) is tre in other parts of Asia. It 1000 BCE that are among the against female performers; com- credited with having written emerged sometime between the earliest examples of literature in panies were all-male, all-female, three plays: the comedy Ratna- 2nd century BCE and the 1st the world) contain no hint of it and of mixed gender. Certain vali, Priyadarsika, and the Bud- century CE and flourished be- (although a small number are sentiments were considered dhist drama Nagananda. tween the 1st century CE and the composed in a form of dialogue) inappropriate for men to enact, 10th, which was a period of rela- and the rituals of the Vedic pe- however, and were thought bet- Traditional Indian theatre tive peace in the history of India riod do not appear to have devel- ter suited to women. Some per- during which hundreds of plays oped into theatre. The formers played characters their Kutiyattam is the only surviving were written. With the Islamic Mahābhāṣya by Patañjali contains own age, while others played specimen of the ancient Sanskrit conquests that began in the 10th the earliest reference to what those different to their own theatre, thought to have origi- and 11th centuries, theatre was may have been the seeds of San- (whether younger or older). Of nated around the beginning of the discouraged or forbidden en- skrit drama. This treatise on all the elements of theatre, the Common Era, and is officially tirely. Later, in an attempt to re- grammar from 140 BCE provides Treatise gives most attention to recognised by UNESCO as a assert indigenous values and a feasible date for the acting (abhinaya), Masterpiece of the Oral and ideas, village theatre was encour- beginnings of theatre in which consists of Intangible Heritage of Humanity. aged across the subcontinent, India. two styles: realistic In addition, many forms of Indian developing in a large number of (lokadharmi) and folk theatre abound. Bhavai regional languages from the 15th The major source of conventional (strolling players) is a popular folk to the 19th centuries. evidence for Sanskrit (natyadharmi), theatre form of Gujarat, said to theatre is A Treatise on though the major have arisen in the 14th century Modern Indian theatre developed Theatre (Nātyaśāstra), focus is on the lat- CE. Bhaona and Ankiya Nats have during the period of colonial rule a compendium whose ter. been practicing in Assam since under the British Empire, from date of composition is early 16th century which were the mid-19th century until the uncertain (estimates Its drama is re- created and initiated by Mahapu- mid-20th. In order to resist its range from 200 BCE to garded as the high- rusha Srimanta Sankardeva. Jatra use by Indians as an instrument of 200 CE) and whose authorship is est achievement of Sanskrit lit- has been popular in Bengal and its protest against colonial rule, the attributed to Bharata Muni. The erature. It utilised stock charac- origin is traced to the Bhakti British Government imposed the Treatise is the most complete ters, such as the hero (nayaka), movement in the 16th century. Dramatic Performances Act in work of dramaturgy in t ancient heroine (nayika), or clown Another folk theatre form popu- 1876. From the last half of the world. It addresses acting, dance, (vidusaka). Actors may have spe- lar in Haryana, Uttar Pradesh and 19th century, theatres in India music, dramatic construction, cialised in a particular type. Kāli- Malwa region of Madhya Pradesh experienced a boost in numbers architecture, costuming, make-up, dāsa in the 1st century BCE, is is Swang, which is dialogue- and practice. After Indian inde- props, the organisation of compa- arguably considered to be ancient oriented rather than movement- pendence in 1947, theatres nies, the audience, competitions, India's greatest Sanskrit drama- oriented and is considered to spread throughout India as one of and offers a mythological account tist. Three famous romantic plays have arisen in its present form in the means of entertainment. As a of the origin of theatre. In doing written by Kālidāsa are the the late 18th - early 19th centu- diverse, multi-cultural nation, the so, it provides indications about Mālavikāgnimitram (Mālavikā and ries. Yakshagana is a very popular theatre of India cannot be re- the nature of actual theatrical Agnimitra), Vikramuurvashiiya theatre art in Karnataka and has duced to a single, homogenous practices. Sanskrit theatre was (Pertaining to Vikrama and Ur- existed under different names at trend. In contemporary India, the performed on sacred ground by vashi), and Abhijñānaśākuntala least since the 16th century. It is major competition with its thea- priests who had been trained in (The Recognition of Shakuntala). semi-classical in nature and in- tre is that represented by grow- the necessary skills (dance, music, The last was inspired by a story volves music and songs based on ing television industry and the and recitation) in a hereditary in the Mahabharata and is the carnatic music, rich costumes, spread of films produced in the process. Its aim was both to most famous. It was the first to storylines based on the Mahab- Indian film industry based in educate and to entertain. be translated into English and harata and Ramayana. It also Mumbai (formerly Bombay), German. Śakuntalā (in English employs spoken dialogue in- known as "Bollywood". Lack of Under the patronage of royal translation) influenced Goethe's between its songs that gives it a finance is another major obstacle. courts, performers belonged to Faust (1808–1832). folk art flavour. Kathakali is a professional companies that were form of dance-drama, character- Sanskrit theatre directed by a stage manager The next great Indian dramatist istic of Kerala, that arose in the (sutradhara), who may also have was Bhavabhuti (c. 7th century 17th century, developing from The earliest-surviving fragments acted. This task was thought of as CE). He is said to have written the temple-art plays Krishnanat- of Sanskrit drama date from the being analogous to that of a pup- the following three plays: Malati- tam and Ramanattam. 1st century CE. The wealth of peteer—the literal meaning of Madhava, Mahaviracharita and This is a daily collection of all sorts of interesting stuff for you to read about during the trip. The guides can’t cover everything; so this is a way for me to fill in some of those empty spaces about many of the different aspects of this fascinating culture.

THE Once Upon a TIMES OF INDIA

PUBLISHED FOR EDDIE’S KOSHER TRAVEL GUESTS, WITH TONGUE IN CHEEK OCTOBER 2014

”אכל בכסף תשברני ואכלתי ויין בכסף תתן לי ושתיתי“ )דברים ב: כח( THE WHITE TIGER OF REWA THE DABAWALLAHS OF MUMBAI Among Mumbai's fascinating up the meals, usually rotis, vege- Lunches rarely go astray and In 1951, the Maharaja of Rewa human sights are the dabawal- tables and dal, packed in three empty dabbas are delivered captured a white tiger in the lahs, men who pick up freshly or four round stainless steel back home by late afternoon. cooked lunches from over containers known as tiffin boxes Dabawallahs, traditionally mi- forests of Bandhvargarh. Named 200,000 suburban homes and or dabbas, from each house, grants from the neighboring city Mohan, he was mated in captiv- deliver them to offices all over color-code the office addresses of Pune, consider themselves ity with several tigresses, and all the city. Most office workers onto the lids, thread the dabbas descendants of the Mawle war- the white tigers in zoos across spend two hours traveling to onto long poles and cycle off to riors, associated with King the world today are Mohan's work. Hot, home-cooked the nearest station. Here the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. descendants. Since 1951, no lunches would, therefore, be an dabbas are handed over to They provide one of Mumbai's other white tiger has been seen impossible luxury if it weren't other dabawallahs who deliver most efficient services. for the dabawallahs. They pick them to the right offices. in the forests of the Bandhvar- garh region. The White Tiger is an "evolutionary color aberration" and not an albino, not a sepa- rate sub-species.

Chamba Rumals

THE RICKSHAW

The Rickshaw gets it’s name they love squeezing between stead of yellow and black. Pri- To fix the price ahead of time, from the Japanese Jin-Liki-Sha, buses. In the big cities, the anti- vate cabs (some of which are or see the meter being which means “man-powered- pollution drive has seen the conditioned), are usually white switched on and off. Be careful, vehicle.” In India, the ubiquitous introduction of vehicles run on in color, and are available at be aware, and arrive safe! auto-rickshaws (popularly called compressed natural gas (CNG). taxi stands. In some cities they autos, scooters or phat-phats) Taxis and rickshaws that have may also be yellow-topped, are the most common mode of converted to CNG usage have yellow, yellow and black, or all- public transport in most places. a green band across the usual black. Radio cabs have also Rickshaws are more economi- yellow and black body. All new been introduced in some cities. cal than taxis, but be prepared rickshaws run on CNG and are Whichever method of public for some hair-raising drives - painted yellow and green, in- transport you choose, be wary FOLK & TRIBAL DANCE IN INDIA כקול מרכבות על ראשי ההרים ירקדון כקול להב אש אכלה קש כעם עצום ערוך מלחמה - יואל ב:ה

cylindrical drum, and Shehnai or sculptures from the 2nd century both religious and social.In the reed pipes. The strenuous nature of BC, practiced and enriched by the matter of technical format, there the dance restricts performances to Devadasis. With the construction of are many similarities between Mo- brief periods but, in PuruliaChhau, a the Jagannath Temple in Puri in the hiniAttam and Bharat Natyamwith single item could last 40 minutes 12th century, the practice of dedi- the central motif of adavus and a performance, night long. cating devadasis in the service of the (gestures) being the same. It is temple was initiated and continues essentially a solo dance and per- Kathak to this day. At once sensuous and formed by women with tender and Kathaks were originally story tellers spiritual, the dance form has the graceful body movements belonging who used to dance to illustrate ability to portray erotic sentiments to the lasya (extremely feminine and Indian folk and tribal dances are an 'Kathas' or stories. They were at- in a deeply reverential manner. fluid type of dance) style. Hand expression of joy. Folk dances are tached to the temples of North Odissi is a highly stylised dance with gestures play an important part as a performed on every possible occa- India. With the advent of Muslim tribhanga or the three-bend attitude communication medium.The cos- sion, to celebrate the arrival of rule, Kathak went from the temple of Hindu sculpture. The bhava or tume comprises a white sari with seasons, birth of a child, a wedding to the courts. Consequently, Kathak feeling is chaste and orthodox, with gold ornaments on the neck, waist, and festivals. The dances are simple flowered as a form in the Hindu flashes of heightened dramatisation. wrists and a typical hair bun with in terms of steps or movements but courts of Rajasthan and the Muslims The accompanying music is pure flowers on the left side of the burst with verve and vitality. Men courts of Delhi, Agra and Lucknow. and classical, with graces of both head.The dominant emotion in and women perform some dances Court patronage led to the evolu- the Hindustani and the Carnatic MohiniAttam is of shringara (love). exclusively, while in some perform- tion of Kathak into a highly technical styles. The instruments traditionally ances men and women dance to- and stylised art with emphasis on used are the mandala (drums), gini Kuchipudi gether. On most occasions, the the solo performers and their virtu- (small cymbals) and the flute. The art form takes its name from dancers sing themselves, while being osity. Gradually, the two schools the village of its birth, in the Krishna accompanied by artists on the in- became distinctively different: the Kathakali district of Andhra Pradesh. Ku- struments. Each form of dance has a Jaipur Gharana (ideology in this Kerala’s Kathakali, heroic, majestic chipudi was the result of the Bhakti specific costume. Most costumes context) focussed on layakari, or and epic in character, is not more Movement in the 6th century, when are flamboyant with extensive jew- rhythmic wizardly; while the than 300 years old, though its roots Siddendra Yogi, the progenitor of ellery. LucknowGharana expounded bhava can be traced to 1,500 years earlier. the form, presented a dance drama or moods and emotions. However, It symbolises the blending of the with boys from the village of Ku- While there are numerous folk and both schools have Radha& Krishna Aryan and Dravidian cultures and is chipudi. Consciously they raised the tribal dances, they are constantly as their central theme.Rhythm, thought to have evolved out of the form above the reach of Devdasi. adapted and innovated. The skill and timing and so footwork are the various ancient theatre traditions of The boys were committed to an the imagination of the dances influ- main planks of Kathak. The musical the region like Krishnattam, Rama- annual presentation of the form and ence the performance. accompaniment to the 200 ghun- nattam, Koodiyattam, Mudiyyetu grus or bells on the dancer's feet, and Teyyam. MahakaviVallathol of Chhau are the sarangi and the tabla. Kathak Cherutoorthi (Palakkad) contrib- The etymologic root of the word is a true fusion of the Hindu and uted greatly in the revival of this art Chhau is traced to the Sanskrit Muslim genius in art and it the only by forming Kalamandalam, the fa- Chhaya or shade, referring to the classical dance of North India. mous teaching institution, set up in mask used by the dancers. Others the 1930s. Mostly based on the aver, it is derived from the word Manipuri mythology and the themes of Rama- 'Chauuni' where the pharikhanda There is no authoritative record of yana and Mahabharata, a Kathakali (shield and sword) soldiers stayed. the history of Manipur's dance and performance opens with the thun- The technique of the dance, in fact, music prior to the 18th century der of drums, which invites the draws on steps and gait which stem AD. However, the lasting develop- audiences. The performance lasts they passed on the techniques to from the 'Pharikhanda System'. It is ments in technique and methods night long and, till recently, only the next generation. So a tradition basically a martial dance where the took place during the time of Jai men were allowed to perform even and a form were born.The per- mask holds the dominant Rasa while Singh (1764-89), who was a great female roles. As a form of art, former has to express through the the body creates, projects, and devotee of Lord Krishna and a Kathakali is a sophisticated specta- language of gestures, speech and develops the moods. Chhau has follower of Vaishnavism.Among the cle of the supernatural. song. The Kuchipudi artiste, apart three schools: Seraikella in Bihar, legendary and mythological tales, from being a dancer and an actor Mayurbhanj in Orissa, and Purulia in the Rasa Lila, dance performed by MohiniAttam has to have a high proficiency in West Bengal. While all the three Shiva and Parvati and Lai Haraoba of MohiniAttam is one of the youngest Sanskrit and Telegu languages, music Chhau forms are danced by men, Khamba and Thoibi, the celebrated Indian classical dances, and evolved and the texts of perform- Mayurbhanj uses no masks but the lovers, deserves special mention.In in the 16th century under the pa- ance.Kuchipudi plays are performed others do. The themes are based on the Ras Lila, the movements are tronage of Maharaja Swati Thirunal in the open air on improvised stages mythology, everyday life, aspects of extremely graceful coupled with of Travancore (present day south at night. The sutradhar, or the nature or just a mood or emotion. soft and light steps in which the Kerala).Mohini means a maiden who master of ceremonies, plays an PuruliaChhau, however, has a single heels never touch down. excites desire and her dance is integral role introducing characters, focus - good triumphs over evil. The known as MohiniAttam. From the providing humour and tying to- music is based on Hindustani Ragas Odissi inception itself, MohiniAttam was gether the performance. The fast and the accompaniment is with a A dance form born in the state of conceived as a form of social diver- paced nature of the dance has made Nagara, a huge kettledrum, Dhol, a Orissa, Odissi manifested in temple sion. The themes of the songs were it a popular dramatic form. This is a daily collection of all sorts of interesting stuff for you to read about during the trip. The guides can’t cover everything; so this is a way for me to fill in some of those empty spaces about many of the different aspects of this fascinating culture.

THE Once Upon a TIMES OF INDIA

PUBLISHED FOR EDDIE’S KOSHER TRAVEL GUESTS, WITH TONGUE IN CHEEK OCTOBER 2014

”ויאמר להם ברוך מפיו יקרא אלי את כל הדברים האלה ואני כתב על הספר בדיו“ )ירמיה לו: יח( MOTHER TERESA RUDYARD KIPLING’S JUNGLE BOOK Mother Theresa, born The English writer, Rudyard Agnes Gonxa Bojaxhiu Kipling, (1865-1935) was born in Albania, came to Kol- in Bombay (Mumbai), and kata (Calcutta) in 1929 to though he spent little time in begin life as a teacher. India, the country provided the setting for many of his books. The poverty and suffer- Among his most enduring ing she saw impelled her works is The Jungle Book, de- to leave the convent. She lightful stories of animal behav- set up the order of the ior and the law of the jungle. Set in the Seonee Forests of Missionaries of Charity Kanha, their endearing hero is and her indefatigable the wolf-reared boy Mowgli; work among the lepers, and the many enchanting animal the terminally ill, the un- characters include Rikki-tikki- tavi, the mongoose, Shere Khan wanted and the poor the tiger, Kaa, the python and earned her universal re- Baloo, the bear. spect and love. To the people of Kolkata she was just "Mother" and Cricket (as explained to foreigners) their love for her tran- scended boundaries of You have two sides, one out in religion, class and com- the field and one in. Each man munity. She was awarded that's in the side that's in goes out, and when he's out he the Nobel Peace Prize in comes in and the next man goes 1979. in until he's out. When they are all out, the side that's out comes in and the side that's been in goes out and tries to get those coming in, out. Some- times you get men still in and not out. When a man goes out to go in, the men who are out try to get him out, and when he is out he goes in and the next man in goes out and goes in. There are two men called um- pires who stay all out all the time and they decide when the men who are in are out. When both sides have been in and all the men have been out, and both sides have been out twice after all the men have been in, including those who are not out, that is the end of the game! HOWZAT!?! LANGUAGE IN INDIA את עם נועז לא תראה עם עמקי שפה משמוע גלעג לשון אין בינה - ישעיה לג:יט

The Indian Language state to state but Hindi is the within the central government The 22 recognised languages are most popular second language may be in either Hindi or English. The Indian language is hugely as follows: Assamesse, Bengali, after English, although in the complicated and diverse and has Bodo, Dogri, Gujarati, Hindi, Southern parts of India not many Language of legislation: English & been shaped, like most things in Kannada, Kashmiri, Konkani, people speak Hindi as they pre- Hindi – Parliamentary businesses India, by years of cultural variety, Maithili, Malayalam, Manipuri fer their local languages or Eng- may be in either Hindi or English regional differences, race, money, (sometimes called Meitei), Mara- lish. On the other hand, Hindi but authoritative texts of all laws religion and war. The origins of thi, Nepali, Oriya, Punjabi, San- also functions as a mother are required to be in English! the languages of India bring with skrit, Santali, Sindhi, Tamil, Te- tongue outside the territories of them great stories and history lugu and Urdu. The official lan- India e.g. in Fiji, Mauritius, Nepal Nevertheless, there are people which blends in with the wonder guages of the Union of India are and Pakistan. The Hindi language in India who do not speak any and mystery that so makes India Hindi and English. is written in Devanagari script. other languages than their so hard to define. mother tongue, thus the Consti- Writing and Grammar The English language in India tution gives them the right to be It has proved itself as a country able to express themselves in that can perfectly host and as- Most of the Indian Languages English has a special role in India their own languages to any agen- similate a huge amount of differ- have their own native alphabets; as it is the co-official language of cies. ent lifestyles and manners. Al- the exceptions are Kashmiri, the Constitution. One can say though not always by its own Punjabi, Sindhi and Urdu which that in India everybody speaks Language of judiciary: English – accord, throughout her rich use modified versions of the English – well or badly but they Proceedings of the Supreme history, India admitted adventur- Arabic script. Hindi, the Indo- speak... The use of English in Court are required to be in Eng- ers, attackers, conquerors and Aryan and also several other India began in the colonial times lish. merchants whom all shaped India Indian languages are using the when it was the language of the into what she is today and in Devanagari script which is writ- political power, the language of States in India can choose their return, became shaped them- ten from left to right and is also the Raj; and today, English still own official languages, that leves by the country that soon the writing system of Nepalese. carries great prestige and sym- means they can select one (or became their home. bolizes advancement in the eye more) out of their regional lan- Interestingly, the Hindi and Urdu of the Indians. Moreover, it is guages and make it as the lan- About The Language of India language come from the same not far from the truth that Eng- guage of governmental issues and source, their speakers can per- lish is actually the official lan- education. India is a country of different and fectly understand each other, but guage of India in the practical contrasting cultures and its lin- they have completely different sense. It is the language of the Origins and history of Lan- guistic chart is just as diverse. scripts. Urdu uses the Persian- government, the media, the edu- guage in India There is no such thing as the Arabic script while Hindi is writ- cation and the elite, and it also ‘Indian language’ as there are 17 ten with Devanagari letters. appears useful by reason of job The Roots (recognised) major regional lan- opportunities and as a medium guages in India, however, the The Hindi Language language in a country where The majority of the components different dialects in India number people speak thousands of differ- that make up the Indian language several hundred and the number Hindi belongs to the Indo-Aryan ent languages. belong to the Indo-Aryan or the of actual spoken languages reach language family and is a direct Dravidian language families. The over 2500. Similarities in people’s descendant of Sanskrit which is Traffic signs in India are usually former is a subdivision of the mother tongues are easy to find recognised as a so-called classical bilingual; they give information in Indo-European language family making language classification a language of India. Hindi is the both English and the local lan- and is spoken by 70% of the difficult issue since it is hard to most commonly spoken language guage, so do the numbers. Indians mostly in North India prove which are just dialects of in India and is also the official while the Dravidian languages are the same language or which language of most states including It should be noted that Indian only spoken by 22% of the popu- make separate languages up. Bihar, Chhattisgarh, Haryana, English for linguistic and cultural lation and are predominant in the Himachal Pradesh, Jharkhand, reasons, differs greatly from South. Other Indian languages According to the Constitution of Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan, Utta- SSBE (Spoken Standard British are from the Austro-Asiatic or India, there are 22 recognised rakhand, Uttar Pradesh and the English) to such extent that it has the Sino-Tibetan (within that, the national languages at the mo- National Capital, Delhi. It is spo- been dubbed Hinglish. Tibeto-Burman) linguistic families ment. The Eighth Schedule, ken by more than 150 million and there are a few language which contains the official list of people in India (about 20% of the English and Hindi: Co- isolates as well (e.g. the Nihali – the Indian languages, originally population regard Hindi as their operation or Kalto- language, native to included 14 acknowledged lan- mother tongue). Maharashtra state). guages but since the 71st and the Language of administration: Eng- 92nd Amendments, a further 8 The accents and dialects are lish & Hindi – Administrative were added to this list. different from region to region, documents and communication This is a daily collection of all sorts of interesting stuff for you to read about during the trip. The guides can’t cover everything; so this is a way for me to fill in some of those empty spaces about many of the different aspects of this fascinating culture.

THE Once Upon a TIMES OF INDIA

PUBLISHED FOR EDDIE’S KOSHER TRAVEL GUESTS, WITH TONGUE IN CHEEK OCTOBER 2014

”...והנה דמעת העשוקים ואין להם מנחם ומיד עושקיהם כח ואין להם מנחם“ )קהלת ד: א( AYURVEDA THERAPY MAHATMA GHANDI: TWO STORIES A classical text on medi- Mahatma Gandhi went from city keep checks worth thousands cine, the Ashtangahri- to city, village to village collect- of rupees for the Charkha ing funds for the Charkha Sangh," Jamnalal Bajaj said laugh- daya, is the foundation of Sangh. During one of his tours ingly "yet you won't trust me Ayurveda in Kerala. Its he addressed a meeting in with a copper coin." "This cop- author, Vagbhata, was Orissa. After his speech a poor per coin is worth much more the disciple of a Buddhist old woman got up. She was than those thousands," Gandhiji bent with age, her hair was grey said. "If a man has several lakhs physician, and received and her clothes were in tatters. and he gives away a thousand or little recognition in the The volunteers tried to stop two, it doesn't mean much. But rest of India. It is be- her, but she fought her way to this coin was perhaps all that the place where Gandhiji was the poor woman possessed. She lieved that a few nam- sitting. "I must see him," she gave me all she had. That was poothiri (Brahmin) fami- insisted and going up to Gan- very generous of her. What a lies were the original Ay- dhiji touched his feet. Then great sacrifice she made. That is urvedic physicians, and from the folds of her sari she why I value this copper coin brought out a copper coin and more than a crore of rupees." their descendants still placed it at his feet. Gandhiji carry the honorific title picked up the copper coin and Gandhi was boarding a train other shoe and threw it down of ashtaviaidyan. Today, put it away carefully. one day with a number of com- by the first. Responding to the this holistic science of panions and followers, when his puzzlement of his fellow travel- The Charkha Sangh funds were shoe fell from his foot and dis- lers, Gandhi explained that a healing is famous for its under the charge of Jamnalal appeared in the gap between poor person who finds a single five-pronged treatment, Bajaj. He asked Gandhiji for the the train and platform. Unable shoe is no better off - what's panchakarma, in which coin but Gandhiji refused. "I to retrieve it, he took off his really helpful is finding a pair. medicated oils, herbs, milk, massage and a spe- cial diet are used to cure all types of ailments. Costumes of India One of the most remarkable For Indian men, the most im- features of Indian apparel is the portant accessory is the turban ingenious way in which a simple (pagri or safa), an unstitched length of unstitched cloth is length of cloth that is deftly tied used. Gracefully draped as a around the head. More than just sari, or wrapped around the a fashion statement, the tur- head as a turban, the length of ban’s style and color also indi- the fabric is versatile, and is cates the wearer’s social status. worn by both men and women. Rajasthani turbans are intrinsic Stitched garments include the to the cultural ethos of the land, kurta, pyjama, sherwani, the whereas in Punjab, the Sikh vluminous skirt (ghaghara or turban is characteristic of their lebenga), and the trouser, shirt, identity as a martial community. and ubiquitous blue jeans. To- From the mid 19th century, day, despite the influence of topis (caps) became popular, Western fashion, most Indians especially among courtiers in continue to dress traditionally. the Muslim courts. Even today, The sari, particularly, is still men wear plain or ornamental worn all over India, though caps in mosques during festivals. draping styles are regional. HOLY COW! בית שמאי אומרים לא ימכור לו פרה חורשת בשביעית ובית הלל מתירין מפני שהוא יכול לשחטה - מס, שביעית ה:ח

ian Jainism. But children as they grow up, and in every household. They were the cow con- cow dung (gobar) is a major part of the family, with names tinued to be source of energy for households and personalities. Just like one especially throughout India. Cow dung is would not hurt/eat their pets, revered and sometimes among the materials the Indians did not hurt the cows p r o t e c t e d used for a tilak - a ritual mark on and respected them. The cow among the the forehead. Most Indians do has a special role in the Hindu animals of not share the western revulsion mythologies; Kamadhenu is a India. at cow excrement, but instead wish-fulfilling cow. A cow is also consider it an earthy and useful depicted as vehicle of several By the early natural product. deities. Many social reform centuries CE, movements in India (Jainism, In Hinduism, the cow (Sanskrit: the cow was designated as the Despite their sacred status, cows Buddhism, the Bhakti Movement, go) is revered as the source of appropriate gift to the brahmans don't seem very appreciated in Gandhi's non-violent movement) food and symbol of life and may (high-caste priests) and it was India. Visitors are often surprised advocated non-violence, and no never be killed. Hindus do not to see them cruelty to animals. So in India, worship the cow, however, and walking ne- other animals also (like ele- cows do not have especially g l e c t e d phants, mice, monkeys) are con- charmed lives in India. It is more around city sidered holy. That said, many accurate to say the cow is taboo streets, living ethnic communities do eat beef in Hinduism, rather than sacred. on garbage in India. The cow meat is con- from the sumed by Roman Catholics, History of the "Sacred" Cow gutters. But Anglo-Indians, and several other the cow is non-Brahmin Hindu communi- In ancient India, oxen and bulls honored at ties. However Slaughter of the were sacrificed to the gods and least once a cows is banned in several states their meat was eaten. But even year, on keeping in view the sentiments of then the slaughter of milk- soon said that to kill a cow is Gopastami. On this "Cow Holi- Hindu religion. producing cows was prohibited. equal to killing a brahman. The day," cows are washed and deco- Verses of the Rigveda refer to importance of the pastoral ele- rated in the temple and given Cows are considered Sacred in the cow as Devi (goddess), iden- ment in the Hindu religion. The cow like all tified with Aditi (mother of the Krishna sto- animals is sacred because it is a gods) herself. ries, particu- reincarnation of human souls. larly from the Many hindu's choose a vegetarian Even when meat-eating was per- 10th century diet because of this belief. The mitted, the ancient Vedic scrip- onward, fur- cow is treated as holy because tures encouraged vegetarianism. ther rein- he/she provides strength to plow One scripture says, "There is no forced the the fields, milk to give nutrition sin in eating meat... but absten- sanctity of the to humans and leather from their tion brings great rewards." (The cow. skins upon death. Because of all Laws of Manu, V/56) they provide cows are consid- Cow-Related ered the mothers to humans and Later, in the spiritually fertile Practices therefore should be treated with period that produced Jainism and respect and never eaten. Buddhism, Hindus stopped eating The cow remains a protected offerings in the hope that her beef. This was mostly like for animal in Hinduism today and gifts of life will continue. practical reasons as well as spiri- Hindus do not eat beef. Most tual. It was expensive to slaugh- rural Indian families have at least Indians consume ter an animal for religious rituals one dairy cow, a gentle spirit milk on a daily or for a guest, and the cow pro- who is often treated as a mem- basis, and the vided an abundance of important ber of the family. cow as a provider products, including milk, of milk, is equated browned butter for lamps, and The five products (pancagavya) of to one's mother fuel from dried dung. the cow — milk, curds, ghee (hence the ex- butter, urine and dung — are all pression Gomäta Some scholars believe the tradi- used in puja (worship) as well as = mother cow). tion came to Hinduism through in rites of extreme penance. The Traditionally, the influence of strictly vegetar- milk of the family cow nourishes Indians had cows This is a daily collection of all sorts of interesting stuff for you to read about during the trip. The guides can’t cover everything; so this is a way for me to fill in some of those empty spaces about many of the different aspects of this fascinating culture. THE HIMALAYAN HARBINGER

A G U I D E F O R F I R S T—T I M E R S T O T H E N E V E R L A N D T H A T I S N E P A L OCTOBER 2014

”לא יהיה לך אלוהים אחרים על פני“ )שמות כ: ג( NEPALESE ETIQUTTE KUMARI DEVI, NEPAL’S LIVING GOD Men greeting Men – All meetings generally begin with palms pressed together at around chest level and saying, “Namaste”, which means, “I salute the god/goddesses in you". Handshakes are common after the initial Namaste, for those familiar with western customs.

Women greeting Women – All meetings generally begin with palms pressed together at around chest level and saying, “Namaste”, or , “I salute the god/goddesses in you". Hand- shakes are common after the initial Namaste for those famil- iar with western customs. Along with it’s hundreds of gether in a darkened room she travels through the city on a Greetings between Men and gods, goddesses, deities, bodhi- where frightening noises are huge temple chariot. Women – All meetings gener- sattvas, Buddhas, avatars and made, while men dance with The Kumari’s reign ends with ally begin with palms pressed manifestations, Nepal also has a terrifying masks and over 100 her first menstrual period, or together at around chest level real, live goddess: the Kumari gruesome buffalo heads are on any serious, accidental, loss of and saying, “Namaste”, which Devi. She is a young girl who display. These antics are pre- blood. Once the first sign of means, “I salute the god/ lives in a building known as the sumed unlikely to frighten a puberty is reached she reverts goddesses in you". It’s best Kumari Bahal, right near Kath- true incarnation of Durga, so to the status of a normal mor- for men to avoid initiating a mandu’s Durbar Square. the young girl who remains tal, and the search must start handshake with Nepalese Having a living goddess came calm and collected throughout for a new Kumari. On retire- women as this may be consid- about during the reign of the this ordeal is clearly the new ment, an old Kumari is paid a ered rude, especially in vil- last Malla king of Kathmandu. Kumari. In a process similar to handsome dowry, but readjust- lages. Always wait from the There are a number of living the selection of the Dalai Lama, ing to normal life can be diffi- woman to initiate, if at all. goddesses in the Kathmandu as a final test, the Kumari then cult. It is said that marrying an Valley, but the Kumari Devi of chooses items of clothing and ex-Kumari is unlucky, but it is Note: Always use the right Kathmandu is the most impor- decorations worn be her prede- believed more likely that taking hand when shaking hands. You tant. cessor. on a spoilt ex-goddess is likely may accept handshakes offered The Kumari is selected from a Once chosen as the Kumari to be too much hard work! by both sexes, male or female, particular caste of Newari gold– Devi, the young girl but never offer your hand first and silversmiths. Usually, she is moves into the somewhere between four years to women. Instead you do Kumari Bahal with old and puberty, and must meet her family and `Namaste’ as it’s considered 32 strict physical requirements makes only half a rude for a man to touch a ranging from the color of her dozen ceremonial women even shaking a hand, eyes and shape of her teeth to appearances in the especially married women. the sound of her voice. Her outside world each Hand shakes are more gentle horoscope needs to be appro- year. This happens than strong, so don't feel the priate too. mainly during the person isn't interested if the Once suitable candidates are September Indra grip is weak, it's just their way. found, they are gathered to- Jatra festival, when NEPALI MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS הפרטים על פי נבל כדויד חשבו להם כלי שיר - עמוס ו:ה

Music is inevitable in Nepali cul- singing Nepali folk song (Nepali instruments produce almost Khainjadi (A tambourine) ture. The music starts from birth lok geet). same types of sound. These are It is a kind of of a baby to the death of a man. also famous all over the country. small drum Each cultural custom has its asso- Sarangee In eastern culture flute repre- made of skin ciation with music, song, dance Sarangee is a sents lord Krishna. The names stretched over and musical instruments. Musical traditional folk Murali and Basuri are synonyms an edge of a instruments have different vari- musical instru- and used alternately in some rounded hollow ety and types according to the ment especially languages. wood. It isKhaijadi played espe- places, communities, festivals and played by Gand- cially on the occasion of singing a religions. harva. It is a Panchai baja kind of song called Roila and popular string- Panche baja is called so because Balam. The music is played from Moun- instrument made it is the group of five musical tain to Hill and Hill to Madesh. of a piece of wood, the bottom instruments played together. The Pungi (Bin) There are hundreds of instru- of which is made a hollow and five musical instruments in It is made of a ments developed in Nepal. A four pieces of strings are fas- panche baja are: harder cover of research found that about 200 tened tightly with four wooden coconut by original instruments developed in nails fixed on the top of it. It is fixing some Nepal. 108 types are still in play played by rubbing on a group of pieces of bam- across the nation. Panchai Baja is strings especially left and right boo on it. It is specially played by one the famous musical instru- repeatedly with a small stick, snake charmers to make snakes ments in Nepal. Most of the which is fastened with some dance especially in Terai regions. instruments developed in Nepal strings. Sarangee resembles the are still being used by Newar violin in western culture. Sarangi Shankha Community. in Nepal is played from so many It is a shell of years. It has its own famous sea creature. A brief introduction of some rhythms and tones. Sarangi in 1. Jhyamta/Jhurma (Cymbal): It is played by famous musical instruments Nepal has been used as a instru- It is one of the Panchhai Baja. It blowing air on ment used to convey the mes- is a couple of flat round dish-like the occasion Madal sage and news across tSarangihe musical instrument made of brass of worship Madal is country. The Gandharvas used to or bronze, played by beating on and funeral one of the travel across the nation and go each other. procession. f a m o u s home to home sing the song of M o s t o f folk musi- current affairs and earn some 2. Narsingha (A Trumpet): It is Hindu ritual starts with the cal instru- money. That was kind of messen- one of Panchaibaja Bajas made of sound of Shankha. Sankha is not m e n t s ger tradition. two pieces curved copper tube the regular musical instrument to associated with our culture and that is played by blowing air play. It is only used in ritual lifestyle. It is believed that it was Basuri & Murali through its mouthpiece.Panche events.Sankha first introduced by the Magar Baja Set community, it is equally famous Tunga and used by almost all of the 3. Nagara/Damaha (A Drum): It is one of the Nepalese society. This instru- It is also one of the panchhai popular musical ment is made especially with skin Baja. It is made of leather instruments in stretched over both of the ends stretched over an end of a hol- mountain region. of a wooden hollow tube and low copper bowl played by hit- It is made of a tightened with leather strings. These are made from pieces of ting with hands or sticks. piece of Tungnar- Madal is drum played by hand bamboo by making generally 6 h o d o d e n t r o n beating on both sides. The madal holes on it. The six holes repre- 4. Sanai (A kind of clarinet): It is wood by fastening has a strand that goes around the sent the musical notes. Both of one of the Panchhai Baja. It is strings as in waist of the person playing it to these instruments are similar in made of a metal shaped like a Sarangi. hold it horizontally. Playing tech- nature and played by blowing air pipe slightly bent forward has nique involves rhythmic struck through mouth. A little differ- couple of holes, reed on the top Yalamber one either ends (heads) with ence between these two is that that you blow into. A popular instru- palm. The heads vibrate to pro- Murali is played likeMurali flute/ ment in Kirant duce sound when struck. It is trumpet holding by lips and slops 5. Tyamko: It is also one of the community which mostly used in Nepali folk song. downwards whereas the Basuri Panchai Baja. It is similar to is made of two No one can still stand when is kept horizontally (exactly how Damaha in shape but very small pieces of string people start, beating madals lord Krishna played in Mathura in size, played with two pieces of fastened on a and Brindavan) . Both of these sticks called Gajo. piece of bamboo. This is a daily collection of all sorts of interesting stuff for you to read about during the trip. The guides can’t cover everything; so this is a way for me to fill in some of those empty spaces about many of the different aspects of this fascinating culture. THE HIMALAYAN HARBINGER

A G U I D E F O R F I R S T—T I M E R S T O T H E N E V E R L A N D T H A T I S N E P A L OCTOBER 2014

”הקודרים מני קרח עלימו יתעלם שלג“ )איוב ו: טז( EEEK! IT’S THE YETI! Along with the equally slippery 1960 to track the yeti, as did yeti describe it as having reddish notion of Shangri-La, the yeti is Chris Bonington in 1986 and fur, a conical head, a high- one of Nepal’s most famous travel writer Bruce Chatwin . pitched cry and strange body cultural exports, occupying a Reinhold Messner claimed to odor that smells like garlic, but hotly debated biological niche have seen a yeti in 1986 and a sign at Khumjung Monastery somewhere between zoology wrote a book about the subject outlines the different types of and folk religion. called My Quest for the Yeti. yeti in more subtle and cultural In 1938 mountaineer Bill The word ‘yeti’ comes from the terms. The apelike dre-ma and Tillman tracked yeti footprints Tibetan yeh-the, or ‘,am of the tel-ma are messengers of calam- for over a mile, later writing rocky/snowy places’; the alter- ity, it says, while the chu-ti that their ‘existence is surely no native Tibetan names are the moves on all fours and preys on longer a matter for conjecture.’ migyu and mehton kangmi, or goats, sheep and yaks. Worst of Eric Shipton photographed a ‘abominable snowman’. Reports all is the mi-te, a man eater, 2-3 yeti print on the Menling Gla- from western Nepal talk of the meters tall, with a very bad cier in 1951. Edmund Hillary led lamkarna, or ‘long-eared’ mon- temperament. Consider your- an expedition to Ralwaling in ster. First hand accounts of the self warned! SADHUS PEAK XV, a.k.a. MOUNT EVEREST

Sadhus are Hindu ascetics who Everest has gone by a number meaning ‘head of the sky’. graphic used GPS data to pro- have left their homes, jobs and of different names over the Using triangulation from the duce a new elevation of 8850m, families and embarked upon a years. The Survey of India called plains of India, the Survey of but in 2002 a Chinese team spiritual search. They’re easily the mountain ‘Peak XV’; but it India established the elevation made measurements from the recognizable , usually wandering was renamed summit using ice radar around half-naked, smeared in Everest after Sir and GPS systems and dust, with their hair matted, and George Everest produced a height of carrying nothing but a trisul (pronounced Eve- 8844.43m. (trident) and a begging bowl. rest), the sur- So, is Everest shrink- Sadhus wander all over the sub- veyor general of ing? No. The Chinese continent, occasionally coming India in 1865. It calculated the height together at religious gatherings. was later discov- of the bedrock of the You may also see Sadhus wander- ered that the mountain, without the ing around in Varanasi, or in mountain already accumulated snow and Thamel, Kathmandu, posing for had a name— ice. In fact, Everest is photos in Durbar Square. Sherpas call the still growing at a rate A few Sadhus are simply beggars peak Chomol- of 6mm a year as plate using a more sophisticated ap- ungma, after the tectonics drives the proach to gathering donations, but female guardian Indian subcontinent most are genuine in their search. deity of the underneath Eurasia. In Remember, that if you take a mountain, who 2011, the Chinese picture of a Sadhu, or accept a rides a red tiger and is one of of the summit of Everest at agreed with the Nepalis that the tikka blessing from him, you will the five sisters of long life. 8839m. In 1954 this was revised official height is 8848m. be expected to pay some bak- There was Nepali name for the to 8848m using data from 12 sheesh (tip), so negotiate your mountain until 1956 when the different survey stations around The Kali Gandaki Valley between the An- photo fee in advance in order to historian Babu Ram Acharya the mountain. In 1999, a team napurna and Dhaugali massifs is the world’s avoid any unpleasantness. invented the name Sagarmatha, sponsored by National Geo- deepest gorge, with a vertical gain of 7km. NEPALI MITHILA ARTS וכל אשה חכמת לב בידיה טוו ויביאו מטוה את התכלת ואת הארגמן ואת תולעת השני ואת השש - שמות לה:כה

Mithila, the place of Maithili The function of the paintings shipped at Nag Panchmi during New Year festival, paintings are speaking territory of Nepal (mid- being ritualistic the art is very the monsoons, a time when covered over with mud. east, now Janakpur in Nepal and symbolic. The primordial energy snakes abound. Durga astride her some Indian places in Bihar) was of the universe is embodied in tiger is another common repre- Aripan: paintings of Mithila The a very highly educated country various female forms, both living sentation. Probably the most Aripanas are drawn by various thousands of years ago. It was in women and Goddesses. powerful symbolism is the one female members of the house- the period of king Janak (father associated with Duragoman hold, on ritually prescribed occa- of Sita). The country was very As the wedding ceremony is a Puren. A single seed that is sions, on the clean swept ground rich in arts of its own type and special occasion in Maithili soci- dropped in the pond produces of the courtyards or inside the style, which is later called ety, which is also known as many lotus flowers, an appropri- house. “MITHILA ARTs”. “Kohabar” within the commu- ate thought for the bride and the nity, a separate room is set and groom at the time of their wed- The Aripan painting, derived Done in primary colors of natu- decorated tastefully with several ding. Lakshmi, the Hindu God- from Sanskrit “ Alepan” (meaning ral origin on hand - painted wall arts for its celebration. This dess of wealth, is a newer and “to smear”), is quite auspicious hangings, wooden stools, minia- painting is c o m m o n in the whole Mithila region. It tures in paper and leaves, stone done in the addition to basically refers to smearing the pottery, bamboo and leather inner as well the reper- ground with cow dung and clay goods, and applique work. as outer toire of for ritual purification. Also Mithila's most famous and fasci- walls of the Mithila sym- known as “Mandala”, this art nating indigenous art forms by K o h a b a r b o l i s m . form comes into play on several far, are its Madhubani Paintings G h a r Among the religious occasions such as Brata on paper and cloth, they narrate (honeymoon male deities Bandha (sacred thread cere- mythological and religious events. house). As a G a n e s h a , mony), Chhatiyar (sixth day rites p o p u l a r Krishna and of a child after birth), Mundan This art is a strict monopoly of social prac- Shiva are (head shaving ceremony of a the women of Mithila. They tice, its main more com- child), puberty, conception, initia- cover their courtyard walls in motto is to monly de- tion into learning, and marriage. abstract images in brilliant col- increase the p i c t e d . Interestingly, this art is also prac- our, resembling in form and sexual potency and fertility of Trees, birds and animals are ticed in various parts of India function the sand paintings of the both the bride and bridegroom. extensively used in combination under different names like Navahos. The art is a kind of This special painting is drawn on with other ritual and religious “Alpna” in West Bengal, traditional painting that reflects the walls of the house in three paintings. Sometimes, rarely, one “Mandala” in Rajasthan and the natural environment includ- places: the Gosaighar (special will see these alone without “Rangoli” in Gujurat. In Nepal’s ing animals, people, life style, room for family god), the Koha- religious implication. Bhojpuri areas, it is known as tradition and culture of the local bar Ghar (honeymoon room) “Chaukapurna” while in Mithila, people. and Kohabar-Gharak-Koniya The painting tradition varies it is “Aripam’. (corridor or outside of the Ko- from caste to caste. The art of The art of Mithila is linked to habar Ghar). Brahmins and Kayastha is closely This Tradition of Aripan is found religious ceremonies, particularly tied to religious ritual, as exem- in Grihyasutra too. The Vastu marriage and its consequence, These paintings are wonderfully plified in the making of aripana. Purusha Mandala is a schematic procreation. Interspersed with depicted by the illiterate woman mental map, and the basis for the Vedic marital rites, with the folk of Mithila, and are quite To make aripana a woman grinds nationalizing any site. It is not a Sanskrit chanting by the Brah- attractive to look at. They ex- rice with some water into a measured drawing or a contour mins, is a tradition controlled by press their artistic sentiments paste called pithar. Dipping two map, but a code that enables the women and devoted to fe- and skills on various occasions. fingers into the pithar, she makes reading of the site and a resolu- male deities Durga, Kali and The outer walls of the Kohabar graceful lace-like designs on the tion of its design. A piece of land, Gauri. During marriage cere- are decorated with the paintings mud floor of her home or court- once assigned for a dwelling, mony the bride and groom are of rural life such as a palanquin yard. She then dots the designs becomes the Mandala within pulled away by the women for with its carriers, shady fruit trees with red powder. Women have a which the world of a man is their own ceremonies devoted like those of mango, banana, repertoire of such designs that organized. Its features become to Gauri in which men other Kadamba and Ashoka. They also may be drawn for worship of the the Mandala, which in turn than the groom are forbidden. paint love-scenes of Lord house deity or for rituals related adopts its shape and terrain. The Gauri is the goddess to whom Krishna with the gopinis and his to marriage or a particular full concept of the Vastu Purusha the bride has prayed since child- constant companion, Radha. moon day. The arts of the Mandala acts through a site with- hood to bring her a good hus- women are transient. Rains de- out which it remains physically band. These ceremonies are Some common themes in mithila stroy the mud and painted de- nonexistent, which means that an performed in courtyards before arts include the Snake goddess, a signs or in the spring during a ordered field cannot exist with- painted images of the goddesses. form in which snakes are wor- out a field. This is a daily collection of all sorts of interesting stuff for you to read about during the trip. The guides can’t cover everything; so this is a way for me to fill in some of those empty spaces about many of the different aspects of this fascinating culture. THE HIMALAYAN HARBINGER

A G U I D E F O R F I R S T—T I M E R S T O T H E N E V E R L A N D T H A T I S N E P A L OCTOBER 2014

”חלות תודה ורקיקי נזיר, עשאן לעצמו, פטור. למכור בשוק, חייב“ )מסכת חלה א: ו(

VISITING TIBETAN MONASTERIES NAVADURGA DANCERS Most Tibetan Buddhist monas- The colorful masks sold around teries welcome visitors, and Bakhtapur and Thimi are not entering these atmospheric just souvenirs. Every year, as buildings can be a powerful and part of the daisin celebrations in evocative experience. During September or October, local the morning and evening residents perform frenetic prayers, the lamas and novices dances in Bakhtapur’s public gather to chant Buddhist texts, squares, during which they are normally accompanied by a said to be possessed by the cacophony of crashing cymbals, spirits of Navadurga, the nine thumping drums and booming incarnations of the fearsome horns. consort of Shiva. The masks Tibetan gompas (monasteries) worn by dancers are cremated have a consistent layout. The every year and new masks are main prayer hall is decorated made from the ashes, mixed with intricate murals of various looking deities who scare away Cultural Considerations with black clay from the fields Buddhas, bodhisattvas and pro- ignorance - and the Wheel of Visitors are welcome in most around Bakhtapur. Although tectors, who also appear on Life, a highly complex diagram monasteries, but stick to these most of the masks for sale in dangling thangkas (Tibetan reli- representing the Buddha’s in- guidelines: Bakhtapur are made for the gious paintings) edged with sights into the way humans are  Remove your shoes and hat tourist market, they are full of brocade and in statue form chained by desire to the endless before you enter a gompa tantric symbolism. Popular fig- behind the main altar. cycle of life, death and rebirth.  Ask before taking photos ures include Ganesh, Kali, Many gompas also have a library The front of a monastery may and avoid taking photos Bhairab, boar-headed Varahi, of cloth-wrapped, loose-leafed also feature enormous mani during prayers red-faced Kumari and roaring Buddhist manuscripts set into dungkhor - giant prayer wheels Sima and Durna, the eerie har-  Do not smoke anywhere in alcoves around the altar, which stuffed with thousands of copies bingers of death. the compound is frequently covered in offer- of the Buddhist mantra om mani ings, including butter lamps and padme hum (‘hail to the jewels  Do not step over or sit on seven bowls of water. The of the lotus’). the monks’ cushions, even if throne of the abbot is often This mantra also appears on the no one is sitting on them surrounded by pictures of past smaller prayer wheels around  Do not walk around while abbots and the Dalai Lama, the the outer wall and on the flut- the monks are engaged in spiritual leader of Tibetan Bud- tering prayer flags outside. On rituals dhism, and the representative the monastery roof you may  Always walk around in a on earth of Chenresig, the deity see a statue of two of clockwise direction of Compassion. Deer on either side of the  It’s appropriate to make a As you enter a monastery, you Wheel of Law, symbolizing the donation - a khata (scarf) is a will see murals of the four Buddha’s first sermon at the tradition. Cash contributions guardian protectors - fearsome deer park in Sarnath. help fund the monastery. NEPALESE EROTIC ART (or, is this how they did it in ancient times?) The most eye-catching deco- image and in a important part of the around so many temples? rations on Nepalese temples crude, even car- life cycle? Are they Are they supposed to protect are the erotic scenes that toonish style. more an explicit the temple? decorate the tunala (roof The purpose of reference to Shiva’s Whatever the reason for struts). These scenes are the image is un- and Parvati’s crea- their existence, these tantric usually the smaller carving clear. Are they tive roles than the elements can be found in at the bottom of the strut, simply an ex- enigmatic lingams temples throughout the like a footnote to the larger pression of an and yonis scattered Kathmandu Valley. NEPALI ARCHITECTURE ויבן את עשרים אמה מירכתי הבית בצלאות ארזים מן הקרקע עד הקירות - מלכים א ו:טז

Nepal’s territory is very much well renowned due to its won- most constructed during Malla nuns are practically educated prosperous in arts derful tradition in subjects of Dynasty period which impres- about Buddhism and all the mon- &architectures. The magnificent Nepalese traditional arts and sively represents authentic fine asteries inside are panted very architecture of Nepal is a form architectures ever outstanding. artistic architectural design of authentic style of arts which of art which truly captures the Nepalese architecture is another nation. Nepal is the only country based on Buddhism philosophy. culture and essence of Nepal. art that has become an impor- having so many temples made in The stupas in Patan, said to have Traditional Nepalese architec- tant part of the country's cultural the pagoda style. The most been built by King Ashoka, are ture attracts both tourists and heritage. popular sites to observe these considered to be the most an- scholars to this amazing country. pagoda styles are Kathmandu’s cient stupas of Nepal. The fascinating historical build- Stylistically, it has beenbe divided Basantapur Durbar Square area, ings and unique Nepalese archi- into three broad groups. Taleju temple of Basantapur, The Shikhara Style tectural designs inspire much -The Pagoda Style Kashthamandap and temples of awe. The recorded history of -The Stupa Style around, Patan Durbar Square Nepal begins since 5th century -The Shikhara Style area, Kumbheswor temple, and AD. Innumerable historical sites, many temple of around, Bhakta- cities and monuments across the The Pagoda Style pur Durbar Square area, popular length and breadth of the coun- Nyatapolatemple ,Datatraya try are there to testify the coun- temple, Pashupatinath and try’s rich cultural past. Unique Changu Narayan temples. culture and traditions, the his- torical monument, art and archi- The Stupa Style tecture, Hindu temples and Bud- dhist stupas and monasteries, its people and rites, myths and mys- teries which are a part of the daily life of the people made Nepal unique as well as different from other country. The Kath- mandu Valley of Nepal itself is The Shikharastyle of architectural not only the political and com- Nepal's unique architecture is a temple is very common in Hindu mercial centre of Nepal, but also great contribution to the world. Swayambhu and Baudhanath, temples. In Nepal this type of a historic and cultural site that The pagoda style is a true dem- declared World Heritage Sites by style construction can be seen at preserves ancient arts, architec- onstration of fine artistic archi- UNESCO, are exquisite exam- KrishanaMandir of Patan, Ma- ture and cultural lifestyle. Nepal- tectural design. This style refers ples of the stupa style. In Patan habouddha temple and Jagat ese traditional arts and architec- to multi-roofed structures with you will discover some of the Narayan temple in Patan, the tures are totally dominant of wide eaves supported by carved oldest stupas in Nepal that were Vatsala temple in Bhaktapur, the Hindu and Buddhist religion wooden struts. Windows, either commissioned by King Gorakhnath temple in Gorkha as philosophy which are reflected latticed or grilled, are usually Ashoka.Stupa architecture is easy well some are at Pashupatinath by various kind of painting im- projecting, while the roof is gen- to spot. This style is purely Bud- temple area and some Hindu ages, statue sculpture of deities, erally topped off by triangular dhist in concept and execution. temples of Kathmandu valley. temples, monasteries, old spires enclosing an inverted bell The outstanding feature of stupas The Shikhar Pattern of architec- squares and other monuments. of stucco or burnished gold. The is a hemispherical mound topped tural temples are consists of five In general traditional arts and pagoda style shows the finest by a square base supporting a to nine vertical sections forming architectures can be remarked as specimens of the architectural serried of thirteen circular a high pyramidal or curvilinear a fusion of both Hindu and Bud- genius of Nepal. The style was rings.The Stupa style of monu- tower like structure and atop dhist religion in Nepal. Especially later adopted in China and from ments and buildings are styled decorated by beautiful gajur. Kathmandu valley’s squares, there spread to other Asian mainly hemispherical round monasteries, surrounding areas’ countries. For this, the tribute shape in bottom and segmented various pilgrimage places, Lum- goes to a young architect- part to part round up to top and bini, Janakpur and, world heritage sculptor-painter named Balbahu, decorated with images pattern of spots are main evidences of Nep- (or Ar-ni-ko as the Chinese call different sects of Buddhism atop. alese traditional arts and archi- him), who led a delegation of The main base of ground is al- tectures. There are also several eighty Nepalese artists to Tibet ways in mandala shaped of every authentic and traditionally unique during the late 13th century at Buddhist stupas and pair of big arts and crafts are produced the invitation of the Chinese eyes in square of main body commercially. In Kathmandu Emperor Kublai Khan. The sev- which can be observed from all valley both neighboring ancient eral storied pagoda style histori- side easily. There are also several cities Patan and Bhaktapur are cal remaining of Nepal are al- monasteries where monks and