See the lavishly illustrated Hideaway Report Online for additional reviews, stories, { slide shows and videos } ANDREW HARPER’S ®

juLY 2011 | OUR 33RD YEAR www.AndrewHarper.com candid reviews by a writer who travels incognito and always pays his own way

Victorian town and the main port for ferries to and from : Through the the Western Isles. Having arrived well in advance of the boarding time for the Hebridean Princess, we went for a Highlands and stroll, grabbed a light lunch and paid a visit to the well- on our previous visit known Oban Distillery, which has been making whisky to Scotland in 2007, we drove since 1794. Tucked away on a side street, it is home to one of the single malts most popular in the United States. from Edinburgh through Its gentle “West ” flavor contains just a touch the central and northeast of sea saltiness and a whiff of peat. Highlands. This time, we We first caught sight of the Hebridean Princess from chose to follow an itinerary across the harbor: a ruggedly handsome ship with a around the western Highlands black hull, a white superstructure and a bright red to renew our acquaintance with the region’s funnel. Weighing just 2,100 tons, she has 30 cabins for brooding peaks, deep glacial valleys and a maximum of 50 passengers, attended by 38 crew. A 10-foot draft enables her to enter harbors inaccessible magical coastline. to larger vessels, and a bow thruster means that she is We decided that we would begin, however, by extremely maneuverable. fulfilling a long-held ambition to sail on the Hebridean We were greeted at the top of the gangway by friendly Princess, a small ship best known for its cruises through and attractive young women in crisp navy uniforms, the myriad offshore islands. (Among the vessel’s most waiting to guide us to our cabin. (Most of the staff hail notable passengers have been Queen Elizabeth and from Central Europe; the officers from Scotland.) Opening members of the British Royal Family, who in recent years our door, we were immediately delighted to find a cozy, have twice chartered the Princess for summer vacations.) comfortable space, appealingly decorated in a smart After an early-morning arrival in Glasgow, we picked country house style. Floral curtains bordered a large up our rental car and headed for Oban, a charming porthole, with matching fabric forming a half-canopy

H H In this issue 6 Oregon Coast Drive … AND Online Can nery Pier Hotel Astoria 1 » A Scottish Journey Stephanie Inn Cannon Beach Distilleries Among the Western Isles aboard Whale Cove Inn Depoe Bay » Hebridean Princess Glasgow Update Tu Tu’ Tun Lodge Gold Beach The Torridon Wester Ross » Kinloch Lodge Astoria, Ore., Reborn 8 Duisdale House Isle of Skye Open & Shut Find the Hideaway Report Online Isle of Eriska Hotel developments of particular note at www.AndrewHarper.com

For personalized trip-planning assistance, call (800) 375-4685 or email [email protected] www.AndrewHarper.com | For comments and inquiries concerning the Hideaway Report, please email [email protected] over the bed. Numerous built-ins included a well-stocked And dinners always presented a conundrum of equally fridge, a pullout shelf with coffeemaker, a small ironing appealing selections like rack of Argyll lamb or pan-fried board and a small but adequate closet. A pleasing grace sea bream. Everything was well-prepared and served by note was a silver tray with a decanter of sherry. The bath solicitous staff, who were always on hand to pour one of was clad in marble, with plenty of storage for personal the evening’s excellent complimentary wines. items and railings to grab in the event of rough seas. Fortunately, a full program of fascinating shore However, I strongly recommend booking a cabin with a excursions prevented us from falling into a rhythm of full tub, as the showers are tight. All of the cabin’s metal meal-centric days. These trips were executed via sturdy fixtures had been polished to a mirror finish, a sure sign tenders, with the staff displaying a consistent concern of attention to detail. for passenger safety. I was especially keen to visit some In essence, the Hebridean Princess is a country house of the smaller Hebridean islands. Most memorable was hotel afloat. The public areas — which include an intimate the Isle of Rum, which is noted for its mountainous library and a conservatory — are welcoming and filled beauty and its large population of red deer. with comfortable seating for informal gatherings and We landed on the island’s slipway to be greeted by a private relaxation. By far the most popular spot on the guide from Scottish Natural Heritage, who led us on the ship is the Tiree Lounge, a drawing room with a sweep 20-minute walk to the key draw: Kinloch Castle. This of windows that affords a marvelous panoramic view lovely Baronial stone edifice was built between 1897 and of the ocean and islands ahead. The lounge proved so 1901 for Sir George Bullough, a playboy whose family had congenial, it was difficult not to settle into an easy chair amassed a fortune in the cotton industry. Its great halls beside one of the windows before succumbing to the lure are hung with the original paintings and fixtures and of the full afternoon tea, served with finger sandwiches, provide a vivid insight into the lavish lifestyle of the era. scones and clotted cream. (There is even a contraption called an orchestrion, one As on every cruise ship, meals on the Hebridean of only two working examples in the world, an elaborate Princess are an important part of the day. All are taken machine that uses music rolls to play an incredible array at a single seating in the comfortableColumba Restaurant. of instruments.) At breakfast, a well-provisioned buffet was augmented Other excursions included visits to the beautiful by substantial cooked breakfasts, including delicious Isle of , which is laced with walking trails; the little smoked haddock with poached eggs. For lunch, there were town of Inverie, home to The Old Forge, the remotest heartier dishes such as baked ham, or lighter sandwiches. pub on the British mainland; and the charming port of Tobermory on the , with its rainbow of painted quayside buildings filled with restaurants, shops LEWIS 5 and the Tobermory Distillery. On these outings, we fell IDES ULLAPOOL BR in with different groups of fellow passengers — most KINLOCHEWE in their 50s but with ages ranging from late 30s to late INVERNESS 1 80s — hiking with some, lingering over a spectacular OUTER HE APPLECROSS SKYE view with others, before trooping back to the tenders KYLE OF LOCH NESS 2 LOCHALSH and rejoining the ship for afternoon tea or a single malt. Virtually everything about the Hebridean Princess RUM EIGG impressed me, andTORRIDON I am unable to point to any significant ES 4 FORT ID WILLIAM failing. As a testament to its success, a large number BR TOUR BENDERLOCH OF of our fellow passengers were repeat guests. The ship R HE 3 MULL WESTERN sails from early March to late October, traveling from NE IN SCOTLAND OBAN the coast of northern France up to the Scottish 1 The Torridon Islands with an intriguing array of itineraries, many of 2 Kinloch Lodge Duisdale House EDINBURGHwhich involve active days of walking. Cruises can be as 3 Isle of Eriska short as four nights and as long as 10. (During the peak Airds Hotel* ISLAY GLASGOW months of July and August, almost all cruises are eight 4 Inverlochy Castle* 5 Summer Isles* nights.) I strongly recommend booking nothing lower 0 20 40 mi * Additional recommended than a Double Cabin on deck three or four, the “Isle hotels in western Scotland 0 20 40 km of Bute,” “Isle of Berneray,” “Isle of Barra” and “Isle of

2 Hideaway Report | July 2011 Personalized trip-planning assistance is available to members at (800) 375-4685

1 HR

1 HR

2.5 HRS ” having private balconies. 97 Double Cabin fondant potatoes and a shallot purée. The cheese selection (peak summer season), from $11,300 per person for eight was particularly good and included Scottish choices new nights. Prices are proportionally less on shorter itineraries. to us such as Black Crowdie, whose maker elevated the The ship also has several single cabins. Tel. (877) 600-2648. common Crowdie — a soft, creamy cheese — by rolling www.hebridean.co.uk it in a mix of pinhead oats and black peppercorns and aging it for three weeks. After disembarking at Oban and retrieving our car, Activities abound at The Torridon, including hiking we set off on a four-and-a-half-hour drive to Torridon in and sea kayaking led by qualified guides. However, I found the majestic region of Wester Ross. We opted to make myself in conversation with a couple from London who a scenic drive along the shore of Loch Ness to the city of Inverness, where we turned abruptly west toward Kinlochewe. The final section of our journey was along Heading down for dinner, a single-track road with semicircular passing places. we paused in the atmospheric Fortunately, it was not heavily trafficked and the scenery was pure Highland magic. wood-paneled bar, which offers Heading into Torridon village, we soon saw signs for almost 400 single malts. The Torridon, the 2011 Scottish Hotel of the Year. Set on a 58-acre estate, the turreted Baronial red sandstone structure was built as a hunting lodge in 1887. The main confided, “We say we’re going to hike, but all we really do hall with its high ceilings, blazing fire and paneled walls is go out for a little while and come back for a read and created an overwhelming sense of place. Owners Daniel a nap.” That sounded like a plan to me. 94 Deluxe Room, and Rohaise Rose-Bristow took over from Rohaise’s from $545; Master Room, from $685. Annat, by Achnasheen, parents in 2002, and in the past nine years have restored Wester Ross. Tel. (44) 1445-700300. www.thetorridon.com all of the public rooms and given them new life with updated fabrics and wallpaper that complement the rich Our next destination was the romantic Isle of Skye, woodwork and original architectural detailing (such as famous for the grandeur of its mountain scenery, as the ceiling in the main drawing room, intricately carved well as for the colorful tale of Flora MacDonald and with the signs of the zodiac). Bonnie Prince Charlie. (Following his army’s defeat at In addition, some of the bedrooms are now decorated the in 1746, Prince Charles Edward in a much more contemporary style, with bold patterns Stuart, pretender to the thrones of England, Scotland and colors. To be honest, we still prefer the more and Ireland, fled to Skye disguised as Flora’s maid. From traditional rooms, which seem more in keeping with the there, a French frigate returned him to exile in Paris. essential character of the hotel. Our room came with His escapade was immortalized in the most hauntingly a big, comfortable bed backed by a fabric headboard; beautiful of all Scottish ballads, “The Skye Boat Song.”) a sizeable armoire; an ample desk; and a cozy seating We had been promised one of the most memorable area. The bath held a wonderful surprise — a soaking drives in Europe if we took an indirect route from Torridon tub positioned right next to a double window with a informally known as the Applecross Road. Having glorious view across the loch to the mountains. climbed to an unforgettable panorama of the Hebrides, Heading down for dinner, we paused in the we descended into the quaint village of Applecross atmospheric wood-paneled bar, which offers almost 400 (where there is a superb seafood restaurant; see box on single malt whiskies. Curated by Colleen Calderwood, page 4) before climbing once again to the highest road the senior duty manager, this trove presents an advanced in Britain, a former cattle pass that commands even seminar on the fascinating world of single malts (one more magnificent views. augmented by Calderwood’s extensive notes). The Skye has been connected to the mainland by a bridge dining room offers a fireplace, soft lighting and white since 1995, an addition valued by a majority of local people linen tablecloths, providing a sophisticated setting for but much resented by romantics. The largest of the Inner outstanding cuisine. Choices for dinner included a rich Hebrides, the island is 48 miles long and between three smoked haddock and chive risotto, langoustine and and 25 miles wide, which can make driving times hard to smoked salmon ravioli in a langoustine reduction, and a gauge. Its celebrated landscape combines rugged coasts, memorably flavorful roast sirloin of Highland lamb with windswept moorland and spectacular mountains, the

To view slide shows and videos, visit Hideaway Report Online at www.AndrewHarper.com July 2011 | Hideaway Report 3 most famous of which are the mysterious Black , jagged peaks often sheathed in mist. Restaurants and Pubs We, however, were pleasantly situated in , a All of the country house hotels on our peninsula at the southeast of the island known as “the journey had fine restaurants, which diminished the garden of Skye” for its benign microclimate. Kinloch incentive to eat out. Nonetheless, here are four places Lodge is right on the water, nestled at the base of pine- that added greatly to the pleasure of our trip. clad Kinloch Hill. The property comprises two appealing The Applecross Inn is a plain but friendly spot whitewashed buildings, an original 1680 hunting lodge that serves some of the freshest, most succulent seafood and a more recent addition constructed in the same style. in Scotland. The village of Applecross was only accessible There are 15 rooms in total. Kinloch is home to Lord by sea prior to the beginning of the last century, and and Lady Macdonald of Clan Macdonald, who have filled the pure waters of Applecross Bay produce exceptional the lodge with heirloom antiques, family portraits and prawns, squat lobster, scallops, oysters, mussels and keepsakes. Lady Claire Macdonald is a beloved cookbook salmon. Applecross Estate provides venison, as well as writer and periodically teaches classes in a dedicated fruit, vegetables and herbs. We ordered scallops and facility at the lodge. langoustines, and they came perfectly tender and sweet Rooms vary greatly in size and character. Ours was with a generous accompaniment of garlic butter, fries in the newer building, which features its own lovely and side salads. Tel. (01520) 744-262. lounge and fireplace. Our room came with floral On Skye, one of our excursions included a pilgrimage curtains, large windows, a super-king-size bed and to the Distillery, home to one of my favorite malts. We then continued to The Three Chimneys night tables with excellent lighting, plus an eclectic restaurant. Adorned with a Michelin star, this has long selection of books from the Macdonalds’ library. The been regarded as one of the top dining rooms in western bath was pokey, however, with small pedestal sinks and Scotland, and great credit goes to owners Eddie and a combined tub/shower that was almost too narrow to Shirley Spear for their early championing of Scottish stand in comfortably. During my stay, I managed to see produce. Chef Michael Smith is a considerable talent. other rooms, and the key to happiness is specifically to We began with a rich shellfish bisque, continued with reserve one with a separate bathtub and shower. lamb served three ways — one of which was a fantastic Kinloch Lodge is justly renowned for its restaurant, haggis — and ended with the restaurant’s signature hot which boasts a Michelin star. Chef Marcello Tully’s marmalade pudding with Drambuie. The Spears recently menus abound with imaginative choices. We started opened six handsome bedrooms next door, which are with his “soupçons,” which are airy in texture but deep ideal for a gastronomic sleepover at this somewhat with flavors such as carrot and white truffle, or spicy remote spot. Tel. (01470) 511-258. pea. My favorite starter was a generous serving of seared Thanks to the recommendation of a waiter at Kinloch local scallops with a warm scallop mousse. Although Lodge, we went for lunch at the charming Hotel Eilean Tully undeniably has a way with seafood, we both felt Iarmain. The location in the enclave of Isle Ornsay is that the outstanding main course was the Buccleuch movie-set perfect, and inside we found a welcoming fire, beef with a blue-cheese mousse, parsnips, horseradish- wood paneling and a little bar with Gaelic tunes playing in infused potatoes and a brandy sauce. the background. We began with a superb squat lobster Throughout our stay, the service was exemplary. bisque (squat lobster being a small local crustacean), Staff members at the lodge have a transparent desire followed by perfect haddock and fries, and a sticky toffee to make your Skye sojourn a happy one. We were also pudding for dessert. We would have been sorry indeed impressed by the hotel’s activities folder, which outlines to miss this captivating little spot. Tel. (01471) 833-332. walks with excellent background information and specific On a drive to see Castle on Skye, home directions. 91 Room, from $260 per person, breakfast and to the Clan MacLeod for 800 years, we diverted to the dinner included; Suite, from $360. Sleat, Isle of Skye. Tel. little town of to eat at the Stein Inn. A welcoming bar led to an attractive paneled room. There, (44) 1471-833333. www.kinloch-lodge.co.uk we split a plate of fine smoked salmon, and then opted for the hearty ploughman’s lunch of bread and cheeses, A short drive south from Kinloch Lodge brought my favorite being the big slab of Isle of Mull Cheddar. us to a Victorian stone mansion perched on a hill with Tel. (01470) 592-362. a commanding view of the Sound of Sleat. Duisdale House is the most recent venture of Anne Gracie and

4 Hideaway Report | July 2011 Personalized trip-planning assistance is available to members at (800) 375-4685 Kenneth Gunn (captain of the Hebridean Princess for bolder version on the bed. A flat-panel TV and Wi-Fi many years), who were recently named 2011 Scottish had been installed. Hoteliers of the Year. In general, the rooms I recommend most highly at In transforming this handsome structure into Eriska are the Deluxe accommodations in the main house, an 18-room country hotel, they retained much of the although some travelers may prefer the patios and hot interior of the original building — most notably the tubs that come with the Spa and Cottage suites. (The fine woodwork and detailing — and invigorated it with ESPA facility contains a gym and 55-foot indoor pool.) modern wallpapers and fabrics. The comfortable drawing The most significant change in the main house room has a marble fireplace and leads out to the large has been in the library bar, where a new conservatory conservatory where breakfast is served. effectively doubles the space. In the dining room, the Our Four Poster Room came with sea-facing windows, décor has been refreshed with new carpet in a subtle contemporary flower-print wallpaper, a large armoire gray plaid and wainscoting painted deep plum. Chef and a sitting area with a table right by the window that Robert MacPherson’s food is as memorably good as ever. could double as a desk. The bath was done in attractive taupe tiles but offered only a combined tub/shower and a single sink. In the elegant and dramatic dining room, we enjoyed excellent contemporary Scottish cuisine. Among my favorite dishes was a starter of John Dory served with a tangy side of passion fruit. The standout main course was a roast loin of pork with the ideal accompaniments of Savoy cabbage and caramelized apples with Madeira, served with a grain mustard sauce. Balancing the aesthetics of a fine old building with contemporary décor is a delicate task, but Anne Gracie has succeeded admirably. If your preferences are generally

more traditional, however, then you are likely to prefer Isle of Eriska Kinloch Lodge. 89 Double Room with Sea View, $230 per person. Isle Ornsay, Sleat, Isle of Skye. Tel. (44) 1471-833202. I particularly liked his tian of local crab with guacamole, www.duisdale.com mango emulsion, sweet tomato and sweet chili, and a main course of guinea fowl with Savoy cabbage and From Duisdale, we headed south to the Armadale thyme fondant, accompanied by a mustard seed velouté. ferry terminal for the half-hour crossing to Mallaig on Outdoor activities on Eriska include walking, clay- the mainland. Our destination was the Isle of Eriska, pigeon shooting, windsurfing and croquet. The final which lies 11 miles north of Oban. The property has long three holes of the lovely Howard Swan golf course have been a Harper favorite, but several changes have been been finished, bringing the total to nine and making for a made since our last visit, and we wanted to see their effect. pleasantly challenging game. And when the weather turns The hotel sits on its own 300-acre island, and its disagreeable, a just-completed sports hall has provision heart remains an 1894 Baronial red-stone manor house, for indoor games of badminton, tennis, basketball, table with a turret and crenellations. It was transformed into tennis and squash. a hotel in the late 1960s by the Buchanan-Smith family. Overall, the Isle of Eriska retains its unique character, After a warm greeting, we were escorted through the with solicitous but not stuffy service and a prevailing great hall, with its ever-blazing hearth and oak paneling. atmosphere of a congenial house party. Further planned All seemed as lovely as ever. My initial impression on changes include the conversion of a small island house entering our bedroom — where, coincidentally, I had to a three-bedroom self-catering cottage for six, and the stayed on a previous occasion — was that not much had creation of a dedicated space for cooking classes led by changed. On closer examination, however, I saw that chef MacPherson. I was tempted to sign up for the latter although the fine old furniture remained, the fabrics before our departure! 96 Deluxe Room, $645, breakfast had been updated, with subtle tartans rendered in a included; Suite, $740. Benderloch, Argyll. Tel. (44) 1631- restrained pattern on the couch and chairs, and in a 720371. www.eriska-hotel.co.uk

To view slide shows and videos, visit Hideaway Report Online at www.AndrewHarper.com July 2011 | Hideaway Report 5 Pacific Road trip Exploring the Magnificent Oregon Coast highway 101 runs 363 the ground fog lifts, while offshore, powerful breakers miles through Oregon, from crash against enormous sea stacks and engulf lesser rocks in spectacular slow-motion sprays. Or you can perch on a Astoria on the south bank high promontory with 50 miles of white-edged coastline of the Columbia River to spread below and views 30 miles out to sea. the California border, just Astoria, about a two-hour drive from Portland, was beyond Brookings, mostly established as a fur-trading outpost by John Jacob Astor’s Pacific Fur Co. in 1811, and has recently spruced itself hugging the coast except for up to celebrate its 200th anniversary. The city of 10,000 occasional swings inland. You could drive it in overlooks the Columbia River from a steep hillside dotted a day, but that would be missing the point. The with colorful Victorian-style houses. At the foot of the route offers glorious views of the Pacific around hill, the revitalized 1920s-era downtown stretches along weathered piers, once the foundation for vast seafood nearly every bend, dozens of state parks with canning operations. The canneries are long gone; giant broad, sandy beaches and rugged headlands, and Bumble Bee was the last to leave, and its sprawling small towns with a sprinkling of galleries and structures at Pier 39 have been converted to galleries, curiosity shops and waterfront diners that serve professional offices, various nautically themed enterprises and a fine brewpub. wonderful fresh-caught seafood. The bygone canneries were the inspiration for the The Pacific Ocean that carved the coast controls stylish Cannery Pier Hotel, which sits on pilings over the climate. It does rain here. From December through the river where the Union Fishermen’s Cooperative Packing February, it rains and rains. Landmarks such as Cape Co. once stood. Designed to resemble the original cannery, Foulweather and Dismal Nitch earned their names. Lewis the hotel’s waterfront rooms face the busy shipping and Clark’s Corps of Discovery, in the winter of 1805-06, channel and the four-mile-long Astoria-Megler Bridge spent 106 days at Fort Clatsop near what is now Astoria, that connects Washington and Oregon. Our fourth-floor and Captain Clark recorded that rain fell on all but 12. But corner suite (avoid standard rooms) offered a stunning come late spring, the rain tapers off, and by summertime, view of the Columbia and the massive iron bridge. The the skies dry up. On glorious, sunny days, you can stroll river was directly below our small balcony. To the east, along broad stretches of warm sand as the tide ebbs and beyond the bridge, a half-dozen large freighters lay at anchor, awaiting orders or a berth at upriver ports. In the distance across the water, the Cape Disappointment C o l ASTORIA u m b WASHINGTON 1 i a blinked intermittently through a bank of fog CANNON BEACH 2 R . that shrouded the Washington shore. OREGON Our suite, though not opulent, certainly provided COAST TILLAMOOK PORTLAND all the comforts: a king bed, built-in dresser, effective LINCOLN CITY SALEM DEPOE BAY 3 bedside lighting and smallish closet; the tiled bath held NEWPORT WILLAMETTE a whirlpool tub and separate shower; and a sitting room VALLEY YACHATS with a wood floor contained a table for two and a gas FLORENCE EUGENE fireplace. The suite’s chief attraction was the dramatic

P acific 101 view from large windows in every room. Despite the Ocean 1 Cannery Pier Hotel proximity to waterway and highway, we heard only COOS BAY 2 Stephanie Inn BANDON seabirds and once or twice the quiet thrum of a passing 3 Whale Cove Inn 4 Tu Tu’ Tun Lodge ship. We awoke in the dim light to see the freighter 4 Jia Li Hai heading out to sea. (The front desk offers a GOLD BEACH 0 50 mi 0 50 km printout of the Daily Ship Report.) BROOKINGS The hotel has no restaurant. An ample CALIFORNIA (if unimaginative) breakfast buffet is served in a

6 Hideaway Report | July 2011 Personalized trip-planning assistance is available to members at (800) 375-4685 comfortable lobby. The amiable staff not only make dining Like many small towns along the route, Depoe Bay, recommendations, but will provide transportation in one 100 miles south of Cannon Beach, has seen a shift away of several vintage luxury cars. from traditional fishing and timber economies. Charter Glamorous, the Cannery Pier Hotel is not. But we boats still sail from its snug harbor, but this once-gritty loved its location and liked the way its unpretentious feel town now also has its share of galleries, good restaurants and honest design honor Astoria’s colorful, hardworking and a new whale-watching center. past. 84 One-Bedroom Suite, from $375. No. 10 Basin Street. A mile south of town, the Whale Cove Inn looks Tel. (503) 325-4996. www.cannerypierhotel.com over a lovely cove that’s rimmed by weathered cliffs and a slim crescent of driftwood-strewn sand; breakers cascade The Stephanie Inn, a longtime Harper favorite over a rock shelf that guards the mouth of the bay. 25 miles south on Highway 101 at Cannon Beach, is as The imposing stone-and-steel structure is perfectly different from the Cannery Pier Hotel as trendy Cannon aligned to capture the scene, and with floor-to-ceiling Beach is different from Astoria, and many may find the glass facing the sea and the cove, the view is magnificent. inn’s casually elegant lodgings and gracious service a Gleaming steel doors lead into the reception area and the better fit. Here, you can enjoy spectacular Pacific beach views from your oceanfront room, and in an afternoon, drive 35-40 minutes up the coast to sample Astoria’s attractions as well. On our recent incognito visit, we booked the spacious Oceanfront “Janice Kay” Room on the second floor, overlooking nearly nine miles of broad, sandy beach and the looming shape of Haystack Rock, a quarter- mile offshore. The suite was large enough not to be overwhelmed by a mammoth four-poster bed, an armoire that swallowed up our luggage, a writing desk and chair, two period-style upholstered chairs and a round, glass- topped table. The tiled bath held a two-person Jacuzzi, a separate shower and a single vanity. Whale Cove Inn Shortly after we’d checked in, a spring squall swept inland from the Pacific. Rain beat against the windows, two-story lobby, with oceanview windows across the front and the wind rattled two wicker chairs on our small and a dramatic water wall at one end. Attractive interiors private balcony, where a gull huddled on the railing. As are left deliberately spare, and the modern Asian-style art twilight fell, we lowered the lights, turned on the gas and furnishings don’t compete with the view. fireplace and watched the storm pass. In our roomy third-floor corner suite, the spacious We had dinner reservations for 6 p.m., but we’d bedroom held a king bed, dark wood tables and dresser, eaten a late lunch at the delightful Bridgewater Bistro in brushed-steel lamps and a flat-screen TV. The room Astoria. When we asked at check-in for a later table, we opened onto a huge living room and a wall of windows were offered a candlelight dinner in our room — a happy facing the cove. A small dining table fit along one wall, option, since the dining room does not have an ocean and next to it, granite-topped cabinets held a wet bar view, while our room offered the grand view, privacy and a Keurig single-cup coffeemaker. A freestanding and the fireplace. gas fireplace anchored the opposite corner. Light poured Shops and galleries line the main street of Cannon into the room from the windows, two skylights, and the Beach. But the not-to-be-missed attraction, besides glass doors that led to a 10-by-20-foot tiled balcony. The the wonderful beach itself, is Ecola State Park, a short granite-tiled bath held two vanities and a huge walk-in drive that winds north of town through Sitka spruce shower with rainfall showerhead and jetted wall sprays and tops out on Tillamook Head with ocean views that — no tub, but in a corner of the private balcony, with Captain Clark called “the grandest and most pleasing unobstructed views of the sea, a Jacuzzi is connected to prospects which my eyes ever surveyed.” 91 Oceanfront a seemingly endless supply of hot water. Suite, from $550. 2740 South Pacific. Tel. (503) 436-2221. The inn provides a sumptuous breakfast buffet of www.stephanie-inn.com fruit, juices, homemade pastries, quiches, frittatas and

To view slide shows and videos, visit Hideaway Report Online at www.AndrewHarper.com July 2011 | Hideaway Report 7 Oregon Coast continued Open & Shut more. But the real star of the property golf courses at Bandon Dunes Golf It seems hard to believe is the superb on-site Restaurant Beck, Resort, our favorite lighthouse at Cape that the Hotel Bel-Air has been managed by its owner-chef, Justin Wills. Blanco, and miles of spectacular Pacific closed for nearly two years. But a Wills’ imaginative and ever-changing Coast highway where the sea is rarely new era is in sight and the iconic menu is by itself worth a visit to Whale out of sight. resort will reopen in October. Twelve Cove, and with glorious views from Those attractions are within reach new rooms and suites have been Tu Tu’ every table in the small dining room, of another Harper favorite, built into the hillside and provide the experience is unforgettable. As we Tun Lodge, on the north bank of sweeping canyon views, sliding glass feasted on a five-course tasting menu the Rogue River seven miles inland walls, outdoor fireplaces and private (seven and nine courses are offered, from the town of Gold Beach, which spa pools. too), paired with a fine selection of is about 200 miles south of Depoe A completely new Spanish wines, the setting sun emerged from Bay. Although it’s a fishing lodge, not mission-style structure will contain a fog bank at the far edge of the sea a beach resort, it is the finest place to three Loft Guestrooms with double- and bathed the cove and the surf in stay in southern Oregon, known for its sided fireplaces, plus a La Prairie an unearthly light. 91 Signature Suite, unsurpassed hospitality, comfortable spa. The restaurant has been from $395. 2345 S. Highway 101. Tel. lodgings and excellent dining room redesigned, and its menu of Modern (541) 765-4300. www.whalecoveinn.com — which, as we’d been advised when California cuisine will be supervised we made our reservation, was closed by Wolfgang Puck (who created the From Depoe Bay, you could explore for the season during our recent visit. Bel-Air’s famous Tortilla Soup recipe much of Oregon’s central coast. Within To avoid driving back into town, we back in the early 1980s). Longtime an hour-and-a-half drive are three made do (as one does on road trips) devotees will be relieved to learn attractive , the world-class with chowder and accompaniments that the hotel’s famous swans are Oregon Coast Aquarium, spectacular we’d purchased in Gold Beach, and in good health and that their lake Cape Perpetua with perhaps the best the full kitchen in our Chinook Suite now boasts a new pump ensuring view on the coast, and the charming had everything we needed to enjoy improved water quality! towns of Newport, Yachats and a simple meal, supplemented by a Another significant debut, that of Florence. That leaves the southern bottle of good wine from the lodge’s the new Mandarin Oriental in Paris, third of the route, which has its own well-stocked cellars. 90 Chinook is scheduled for July 15. Located on unique features, including the massive Suite, $420; King with Fireplace and the most desirable stretch of the rue Oregon Dunes National Recreation Outdoor Soaking Tub, from $355. 96550 du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, close to the Place Vendôme, the hotel of Area, wonderful Shore Acres and North Bank Rogue. Tel. (541) 247-6664. 99 rooms and 39 suites is housed Cape Arago state parks, three superb www.tututun.com within a 1930s art deco structure. Its restaurants will be under the Andrew Harper Hotel and Resort Ratings direction of two-star experimental Andrew Harper’s 500 Favorite Hotels in the World™ chef Thierry Marx. 98-100 A truly great hotel/resort, among the finest of its kind in the world On a more somber note, it is 95-97 An exceptional hotel/resort of great individuality and distinction 92-94 An outstanding hotel/resort of genuine sophistication sad to see the passing of an era on 90-91 A fine hotel/resort of considerable charm Anguilla. The island’s first luxury Also Recommended resort, Malliouhana, which opened 85-89 A commendable hotel/resort, providing high levels of comfort and service in 1984, will be closed from May to Not Recommended November and is reported to be up 50-84 A hotel/resort that did not meet the Andrew Harper standard for sale. Owned and managed by the Roydon family, the hotel brought Rates provided are published nightly room rates and are subject to change. Call the Andrew Harper Travel Office for the best available rates, (800) 375-4685. employment and prosperity to The Hideaway Report® is a privately published newsletter for the sophisticated traveler, 85% of our executive members Anguilla for more than 25 years. We holding the title of CEO/President/Owner/Partner. Issued monthly since June 1979. ISSN 0884-7622. For information, visit www.AndrewHarper.com or contact the Andrew Harper Membership Office, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768 USA. trust that its future will be secure. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (630) 734-4610. Fax (630) 734-4642. Copyright 2011 Andrew Harper LLC. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher. — Andrew Harper Editor-in-Chief | Andrew Harper Art Director | Kristina Mitchell Illustrator | Melissa Colson

8 Hideaway Report | July 2011 Personalized trip-planning assistance is available to members at (800) 375-4685