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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Go further with Lonely Planet 1 Book your travels 2 Talk to other PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions Find a fl ight travellers Looking for ideas and advice on a Find the right fl ight through our YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip specifi c destination? Want to share online booking service. your experiences with the most active travel community? Then head Map ...... 2 Reserve a room to Thorn Tree, Lonely Planet’s forum, Visit the Lonely Planet website to book where you’ll fi nd new posts every 17 Top Experiences ...... 4 Map of Bulgaria ...... 278 author-reviewed and recommended 12 seconds. Welcome to Bulgaria ...... 280 accommodation for any price range. Need to Know ...... 282 Book activities If You Like ...... 284 Discover and book amazing experiences Map of Romania ...... 14 online for destinations around the globe. Welcome to Romania ..... 16 Month by Month ...... 286 Need to Know ...... 18 Itineraries ...... 288 lonelyplanet.com/destinations lonelyplanet.com/appslonelypl If You Like ...... 20 Regions at a Glance ...... 290 Month by Month ...... 22 Need to Itineraries ...... 24 3 Talk to locals Know With just a few words in the local language you can Currency Regions at a Glance ...... 26 » The lev (lv), divided L make a real connection when you travel. into 100 stotinki » Our superb range of phrasebooks and language apps is guaranteed to get you talking, no matter Welcome to When to Go Y where you’re going. Romania B Dry climate Warm to hot summers, mild winters B 26 Mild to hot summers, cold winters Mild summers, cold winters 6 » » shop.lonelyplanet.com/phrasebookshbk regions f m at a c » Varna t GO Jun–Sep a glance # History 33 Castles 333 M Nature 3 Mountains 333 # GO Winemaking 33 Scenic Villages 33 Mar–Jun 6 Natural Beauty Castles & Medieval # The Carpathian Mountains draw a wide Villages # GO May–Aug 1 History Castles arc through the centre of the country, leav- The land that gave us has no GO Mar–Jun Check out our full range of guides ing a swath of exposed rocky peaks sur- » shortage of jaw-dropping castles pitched # 4 The modern Roma- Who can blame rounded by groves of pine and deciduous nian state traces author precariously on rocky hilltops. There’s GO Dec–Feb a trees, and stretches of bright green mea- spooky of course, with its spu- its roots back to for looking to Tran- dow below. Hiking trails skirt the peaks, rious connection to Bram Stoker’s À ctional 6 TravellingTravelling somewheresomewheomewheere else?else? StayingStayyingyin longerlonger in a particularparticula place? Check out our full range of the old principality sylvania for inspi- and a network of mountain huts provides count, but don’t overlook beauties such as of Wallachia, once ration on spooky somewhere to rest your head at night. Eu- ’s 14th-century Corvin Castle » rope’s second-longest river, the , or King Carol I’s sumptuous 19th-century ruled over by the castles? Bran is a marks Romania’s southern border before i pile, PeleŎ Castle. North of Curtea de ArgeŎ, guides,guides, wriwrittentten and researchedresearched byby expertexpert authors to givee you an amazing travelt experience. Museums 333 feared Vlad őepeŎ. national treasure, turning suddenly northward and empty- you’ll À nd the ruins of a fortress that really 2 Entertainment 333 The princely courts but don’t neglect ing into the Black Sea. The Danube Delta was the stomping ground of old Vlad is a vast and unique protected wetland, őepeŎ. In MaramureŎ you’ll discover Food 33 of Curtea de ArgeŎ Corvin Castle, at perfect for hiking, À shing, boating and and TârgoviŎte tell Hunedoara, or and villages that seemingly stepped out of birdwatching. the Middle Ages, complete with hay racks, this history. RâŎnov, not far horse carts and stately wooden churches. from BraŎov. Museums Nature Bucharest is home to the country’s top The Danube River Mountains museums of art history and natural defines Wallachia’s Transylvania’s

GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP UNDERSTAND Learn about the big picture, so you COUNTRYCOUNTRYTRRY &&C CITYCIC TY DISCOVERDISCOVER POCKETPOCKET EBOOKS TheTh freedom f ddd you need tot Full-colourFll l imagesi Perfect for The same great content ROMANIA & BULGARIA can make sense of what you see plan the perfect trip. and top itineraries. a quick visit. with added interactivity. shop.lonelyplanet.com shop.lonelyplanet.com/ebooks Romania Bulgaria Romania Today ...... 228 Bulgaria Today ...... 442 History ...... 230 History ...... 444 5 Get inspired to travel The Dracula Myth ...... 240 Outdoor Activities & The award-winning Lonely Planet Traveller is the most exciting magazine for people who want to see more of the world. Outdoor Activities & Wildlife...... 454 Go online to fi nd out more and see the latest subscription off er. Wildlife...... 242 Visual Arts, Crafts & Visual Arts & ...... Music ...... 460 lonelyplanet.com/magazine The Bulgarian People .... 463 Folk Culture ...... 247 STAY IN TOUCH The Romanian People .... 250 Bulgarian Wine ...... 465 lonelyplanet.com/contact The Romanian Table ...... 252 Bulgarian Cuisine ...... 468 AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 twitter.com/ %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 lonelyplanet ISBN 978-1-74179-944-6 99525 Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 facebook.com/ against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ lonelyplanet.com/ 9 781741 799446 management of the world’s forests. %020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112 newsletter

romania-bulgaria-6-cover.indd 2 8/02/2013 1:45:35 PM YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE ON THE In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips

Maramure¢ p164

Moldavia & the Bucovina Transylvania Monasteries Cri¢ana & p72 p181 Banat p147

ROMANIA Bucharest The Danube Delta p30 & Black Sea Wallachia Coast p209 p56

The Danube & Northern Plains p425 Sofia BULGARIA p294 Veliko Târnovo & Black Sea Coast Central Mountains p393 p357 Plovdiv & the Southern Mountains p319

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO SURVIVAL HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP GUIDE Romania Bulgaria Directory A–Z...... 256 Directory A–Z...... 472 Transport...... 264 Transport...... 480 Language...... 271 Language...... 487

Index...... 494 Map Legend...... 510

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Mark Baker Chris Deliso, Richard Waters, Richard Watkins Nowy #\Sącz #\ #\ #\ Tatras Krynica Sanokn LVIV REGION .B u Szczawnica Sa #\ ^# d h #\ Muszyna Sambir iv Se Ternopil Zakopane POLAND UKRAINE Khmelnytsky #\ MedzhybizhP UKRAINE #\ Drohobych ret ^# R #\ Ždiar #\ Bardejov #\ Truskavets Tatra Mountains Boryslav #\ \# TERNOPIL Liptovský Kežmarok #\ Stry Dni ^# Vinnytsya #\ #\ es REGION #] UKRAINE t Mikulàš #\e Levoča S #\ rHalych Buchach Husyatyn #\ Skole #\ UKRAINE › #\ t Top Experiences #\ Poprad› Romania#\ Prešov & Bulgariary \# Kalush #\ UKRAINE SLOVAKIA Bucovina Painted monasteries with ^# Uzhhorod dazzling frescoes (p202) Carpathian Mountains Rugged plateaus and well-marked trails (p72) UKRAINE Chernivtsi ^# ^# Miskolc Bran Castle A mass of turrets and castellations (p91) Livada #\ #\ #\ #\ Dorohoi #\ Dilove Siret Sighetu #\ #\ Putna #\ Botoşani #] HUNGARY Satu Marmaţiei \# Bălţi

Moisei Suceviţa Prut Borşac Mare #\ #\ \# ]# ^#Debrecen Baia Mare Prislop C #\ a Pass Gura Humorului r p Maramureş a t h SOUTHERN Austerely beautiful wooden #\ #\ MARAMUREŞ i a BUCOVINA Sculeni n Vatra Dornei MOLDOVA churches (p175) #\ M #\ Târgu #\ Ungheni #\ #] #\ \# o Neamţ Târgu Borş #] Oradea Dej Bistriţa u Iaşi n Frumos #_ #\ Băile Felix t CHIŞINĂU #\ Zimbor a #\ i #\ #\ n Bicaz #\ Piatra Toplița Roman Sibiu Cluj-Napoca s Neamţ Bekéscsaba #\ Lacu Roşu Albiţa \# Maze of cobbled\# streets and #] #\ Reghin Beiuş #\ \# ş Ceahlău lustrous squares (p106) e Gheorgheni #\ Apuseni Turda r Massif Vaslui #\ #\ #] Chișineu- Mountains u#] Târgu Bacău CRIŞANA #\ #\ Moineşti #\ Gârda M Danube Delta Criș Arieşeni Mureş Odorheiu Mures #\ Ineu de Sus A vast expanse of Secuiesc #\ Miercurea Ciuc Nădlac Arad Aiud #\ #\ Oneşti remote wetland (p211) #\ ^# #\ #\ Lipova Mediaş #\ Sighişoara Bârlad #\ #\ Blaj #\ Banatško Mures #\ ROMANIA #\ Alba Biertan #\ Adjud Arandelovo #\ Rupea Iulia #\ Sebeş #\ TRANSYLVANIA Sfântu Mărăşeşti \# #\ UKRAINE #\ Timişoara Deva #\ Făgăraş Gheorghe #\ Orăştie Sibiu \# #\ Tecuci ^# ]# Jimbolia #\ Olt #\ #\ Prejmer Lugoj Hunedoara Poiana Braşov #\ Focşani #\ ]# BANAT Râşnov #\ Braşov Vulcăneşti R #\ #\ #\ Voiteg Cindrel Zărneşti #\ #] #\ Predeal Râmnicu Galaţi #\ #\ Petrila Făgă #] Caransebeş Lupeni #\ raş Mountains Bran Sărat D Zrenjanin Moraviţa \# #\ 333 Petroşani #\ #\ \# Sinaia an Reşiiţa Retezat Brăila #] u Curtea #\ #\ be Tulcea Sulina Mountains 444 Măcin #\ #] De Argeş Câmpulung #\ Vršac #\ \# Râmnicu #\Buzău DANUBE Anina Târgu Jiu #\ Bucegi #\ Horia #\ Vâlcea Mountains 44Făurei #\ 33DELTA3 #\ #\ #\ Naidăş Băile #\ \# \# ]# Ciucurova Sfântu Carpathian ountains Ploieşti Herculane M #] Piteşti Tărgovişte Gheorghe Orşova \# Hârşova Drăgăşani Snagov #\ Urziceni \# \# Drobeta- \# \# Kladovo #\ \# Scorniceşti NORTHERN DOBROGEA Turnu Filiaşi 4#\ #\ Histria \#Otopeni Severin #\ Slobozia #\ #\ Bucharest Slatina #_ Brăneşti \# Palace of Parliament – modern ]# Feteşti Craiova WALLACHIA BUCHAREST Lake #\ Mamaia and mind-blowing (p31) Srebârna Roşiori \# Călăraşi #] Constanţa Olteniţa #\ \# \# de Vede #\ \# Calafat Caracal e Srebârna \##\ anub #\ Alexandria D Negru Turnu #\ Vodă Mangalia SERBIA \# Bechet Corabia #] \# #\ #\ \# Măgurele Ruse \# Vama Veche Lom #\ #\ \# Zimnicea #\ Orjahovo \# Emona Durankulak \# \# Goulyantsi \# #\ #\ #\ Sofia Montana Kneza #\ #\ \# #\ \# \# Majestic Aleksander Nevski Ü# ]# Popovo Albena \# Borovan Byala \# #\ Kaliakra Kaliakra Cape Memorial Church (p303) Lopushanski Monastery #\ #\ #] Cherven \# Berkovica \# #\ Golden Sands (Zlatni Pyasâtsi) #] Bryag Veliko #\ Madara Varna #] #\ Sveti Vrachanski Balkan \# #] #÷Ü# Târnovo \# Veliki Nature Park ]#\# Arbanasi Konstantin Monastery #\ Cherepish Preslav #\ Byala Bulgaria’s most storied Dimitrovgrad Monastery Monastery #\ S ]# Ü# spiritual treasure (p322) ta #\ #\ \# Kotel Novi Iskâr #\ ra TroyanÜ# Pl c Stara Plan Sunny Beach anin Monastery Pass ina a #\ #\Aitos \#(Slânchev Bryag) BLACK SEA Boyana #_ SOFIA Shipka #\ \# #\ #\ #\ Mountains #\ \# Nesebâr R#÷ Nature Novo #\ ]# Long ski seasons and Park \# #\ Kazanlâk Hisar #\ Zagora #\ Mt Vitosha \# steep runs (p327) (Hisarya) #] \# Sozopol \# Stara #\ #÷Ropotamo Nature Reserve \# Zagora BULGARIA #\ #\ #\ #\ Kiten #\ \# Rila Monastery #\ Rila Ü# #] Strandzha unt \# #_ la Mo ains Plovdiv Nature #\ Sinemorets \# Ri #\ \# Park #÷ #\ P \# Bansko i ir Rodop Mounta Romania’s Black Sea in in MACEDONIA Devin s M #\ #\ Beaches o Gotse #\ u \# \# Ormenio Something for everyone (p217) n Delchev #\ ELEVATION t \# Pamporovo Melnik a #\ Kârdzhali #\ i Ü# n s 2500m #\ Rozhen Veliko Târnovo Monastery +# Medieval capital offers 2000m #\ TURKEY 1500m GREECE antiquity and nightlife (p363) 1000m 500m Kazanlâk İstanbul Plovdiv ^# 300m Melnik Fun-loving, with restaurants, Thracian tombs: splendour 200m Home to fine wineGREECE since bars and galleries (p337) of the ancients (p383) 0 Thracian times (p334) 0 100 km e# 0 50 miles

# Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first

Look out for these icons: Our author’s top A green or No payment recommendation sustainable option required

BUCHAREST ���������������30 AROUND BUCHAREST ��������53 Snagov �����������������������������������53

WALLACHIA ��������������� 56 Ploieşti �����������������������������������58 Târgovişte �����������������������������60 Piteşti �������������������������������������62 Curtea de Argeş �������������������64 Craiova �����������������������������������66 Drobeta-Turnu Severin �������69

TRANSYLVANIA ����������72 PRAHOVA VALLEY ���������������� 73 Sinaia ������������������������������������� 73 Bucegi Mountains ���������������79 Predeal ����������������������������������� 81 BRAŞOV ����������������������������������82 AROUND BRAŞOV ����������������90 Bran ���������������������������������������90 Poiana Braşov �����������������������92 Râşnov �����������������������������������93 Zărneşti ���������������������������������93 Măgura �����������������������������������94 Piatra Craiului National Park �����������������������95 North of Braşov �������������������95 SAXON LAND ������������������������95 Sighişoara �����������������������������96 Fortified Saxon Churches ������������������������������101 Făgăraş Mountains �������������104 Sibiu �������������������������������������106 Around Sibiu ������������������������113 SZÉKELY LAND ���������������������115 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

Sfântu Gheorghe ����������������116 MARAMUREŞ ����������� 164 BLACK SEA COAST & Spa Towns ����������������������������116 Baia Mare ���������������������������166 LITTORAL ���������������������������� 217 Miercurea Ciuc ��������������������117 Around Baia Mare �������������169 Constanţa ����������������������������217 Gheorgheni ��������������������������119 Ţara Chioarului ������������������� 170 Mamaia �������������������������������223 Odorheiu Secuiesc ��������������119 Sighetu Marmaţiei ������������� 170 Vama Veche �������������������������225 Odorheiu Secuiesc to Mara Valley ��������������������������174 Târgu Mureş ������������������������121 Izei Valley ������������������������������177 Târgu Mureş ������������������������121 Vişeu & Vaser Valleys ��������178 SOUTHWEST Prislop Pass �����������������������180 TRANSYLVANIA ������������������126 Alba Iulia �����������������������������126 MOLDAVIA & Deva �������������������������������������129 THE BUCOVINA Hunedoara ����������������������������131 MONASTERIES ����������181 Retezat Mountains ��������������131 SOUTHERN MOLDAVIA ������183 NORTHERN Iaşi ���������������������������������������183 TRANSYLVANIA ������������������ 133 Around Iaşi ��������������������������191 Cluj-Napoca ����������������������� 133 Piatra Neamţ ����������������������� 192 Turda �����������������������������������140 Bicaz & the Ceahlău Huedin Microregion Massif �����������������������������������196 (Kalotaszeg) ������������������������141 Bicaz Gorges & Apuseni Mountains Lacu Roşu ��������������������������� 197 (North) ��������������������������������� 142 SOUTHERN BUCOVINA ������198 Cluj-Napoca to Bistriţa ����� 143 Suceava �������������������������������198 Bistriţa ��������������������������������� 143 Bucovina Monasteries ������ 202 Bârgău Valley ��������������������� 145 Câmpulung Moldovenesc �����������������������207 CRIŞANA & Rarău Massif �����������������������207 BANAT ������������������������147 BANAT ����������������������������������149 THE DANUBE Timişoara ����������������������������� 149 DELTA & BLACK CRIŞANA ������������������������������ 155 SEA COAST ���������������209 Oradea ��������������������������������� 155 DANUBE DELTA �������������������211 Băile Felix ����������������������������158 Tulcea ����������������������������������� 212 Arieşeni & Gârda de Sus ���160 Sulina ��������������������������������� 215 Arad �������������������������������������160 Sfântu Gheorghe ��������������� 216 Romania

^# Uzhhorod

Livada #\ #\ #\ Sighetu Satu Marmaţiei

Mare #\ Moisei

Debrecen #\ c ^# Baia Mare Karcag Prislop #] Pass

Borş #\ Oradea #\ #] Dej #\ Bistriţa #\ Băile Felix Zimbor #\ HUNGARY Cluj- Napoca #] Reghin #\ Chișineu- #\ Beiuş Apuseni #\ Criș Mountains Turda #\ #\ #\ Ineu Arieşeni #\ Gârda de Sus #] Târgu Szeged #\ Mureş ^# Crişana Albac

Arad #\ #\ ^# Aiud Târnave plateau Transylvania wine region Sighişoara Nădlac #\ #\ #\ Mureş #\ Lipova Blaj #\ Alba Iulia #\ Mediaş Biertan Jimbolia #\ Sebeş #\ Timişoara #\ ^# Deva #\ Făgăraş Sibiu #\ #\ Orâştie #] #\ Lugoj #\ Hunedoara Ucea Voiteg Banat Cindrel #\ R Caransebeş Petrila #\ Retezat Mountains #\ #\ F Reşiţa #\ #÷ #\ Petroşani ăgaraş Mountains Lupeni Retezat Curtea Moraviţa #] National #\ #\ Râmnicu De Argeş Anina Park #\ Vâlcea #\ Belgrade Târgu Jiu #\ #\ C #_ Dunav Băile Herculane arpathia n Mountains (Danube) #] Orşova #\ Piteşti

#\ Drobeta- Drăgăşani #\ Turnu #\ #\ Scorniceşti Severin Filiaşi #\ Slatina Craiova #] SERBIA Roşiori Caracal de Vede #\ #\ #\ Calafat Kraljevo Wallachia #] Turnu Bechet D #\ Corabia #\ Măgurele una #\ v ( Danube)

Niš ^# #] Pleven

#\ #\ 0 200 km e# 0 100 miles

Chernivtsi ^#

#\ #\ Dorohoi Siret Putna #\ #\ Botoşani Suceviţa #] #\ Bălţi C #] a Gura Humorului Suceava r #\ Cotnari p wine a region t MOLDOVA #\ h Târgu Sculeni #\ Vatra i a Târgu Frumos Dornei n Neamţ #\ #\ #\ Ungheni #]

M Iaşi Chişinău

o #_ Topliţa u Bicaz #\ #\ #\ #\ Roman n

t Piatra Neamţ #]

a #\ Albiţa Tiraspol Gheorgheni i #\ #\ n

s #\ Ceahlău #] Vaslui Moineşti Bacău Massif #\

#\ #\ Miercurea Ciuc Odorheiu Oneşti #\ Moldavia Secuiesc #\ Bârlad #\ Adjud #\ Rupea Olt

Sfântu Mărăşeşti #\ #\ #\

Gheorghe Tecuci t u

Codlea #\ r #\ Prejmer #\

Odobeşti Focşani P #] Zărneşti Braşov wine #\ region Galaţi #] #\ Râmnicu #\ Sinaia Sărat #\ Brăila #] Câmpulung #\ #\ Măcin #\ #\ #\ Buzău Sulina Pucioasa Câmpina Tulcea #\ #\ Făurei #\ Bucegi Mountains Horia #\ #\ #] #\ Sfântu Târgovişte Ploieşti Ciucurova Gheorghe #\ Găeşti Snagov #\ Urziceni Hârşova #\ #\ Ia lom #\ #\Otopeni iţa Slobozia #\ Histria #\ Bucharest #_ Brăneşti #\ Feteşti Călăraşi #\ Mamaia #\ #] Constanţa Olteniţa #\ #\ Silistra Alexandria #\ Giurgiu #\ Negru Vodă #\ #\ Mangalia #\ Zimnicea Vama Veche #\

BULGARIA 24

Itiner- Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide the starting point for a trip aries of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

UKRAINE

HUNGARY

MOLDOVA

ROMANIA

Sighişoara

•#

É •# Viscri É Sibiu •# •# Braşov É Râșnov •# •# Poiana Braşov Transfăgărăşan Bran•# R Road •# •#Sinaia •# Curtea Bucegi

de Argeş Mountains É É

#_•# BUCHAREST SERBIA Black Sea BULGARIA

10 Days Classic Romania

This classic route for travellers wanting a taste of Transylvania starts in the capital, Bucharest, where most flights arrive. Hire a car at Bucharest or hop a train northward toward the mountains, stopping in Sinaia for a couple of nights and checking out Peleş Castle. From there, take a cable car up into the Bucegi Mountains for hiking or biking. Drive or bus north for a couple of nights in Braşov, a lively hub with a cobbled centre. Take day trips to the infamous ‘Dracula’s Castle’ at Bran and another stunner at Râşnov, with the option of and hiking at nearby Poiana Braşov. If you have a car, spend a night in Viscri before continuing on for a night in Sighişoara, where the dramatic citadel offers B&Bs, espresso and Dracula’s birthplace. From here, head southwest for a night or two in Sibiu. If you have a car (and it’s summer), drive south along the breathtaking Transfăgărăşan Road, which tackles the biggest of the Carpathians. South of the pass, stop at the ‘real Drac­ ula’s castle’ of Poienari Citadel outside Curtea de Argeş before returning to Bucharest. 25 Săpânţa Suceviţa •# É •# Sighetu Danube Delta & Monasteries É Monastery Bucovina painted É Marmaţiei

Budeşti•# Moldoviţa •# monasteries Transylvania & Maramureş •# Ieud •# É •# •# É Monastery •# Suceava

•# •# •#

Baia Surdeşti Humor Monastery É

É Mare É •# Voroneţ Monastery •# Neamţ

•# Monastery É

Agapia Monastery •# TRIP YOUR PLAN

•# Târgu •# É É É Văratec Monastery Neamţ Iaşi É MOLDOVA Piatra Neamţ •# •# Cluj-

Napoca É É

Sighişoara ROMANIA

•# ARIES ITINER

Biertan É •# É

UKRAINE

É •# Viscri É

•# Sibiu É É •# Braşov •# Bran Castle

É É Tulcea •# Sulina•# É Sfântu Gheorghe •#

7–10 Days 10–14 Days Danube Delta & Transylvania & Monasteries Maramureş

This tour starts in Tulcea, the gate­ If you’re coming to Romania to get way to the delta, though it could a taste of small- life, this tour is be done in reverse, beginning in for you. Braşov makes a good base; if Suceava. If you’re arriving in Bucha­ you’re starting from Bucharest, take rest, take the bus or drive (3 to 4 hours) to the train north on arrival. Spend at least a Tulcea. day or two in Braşov, and use it as a base for If you’ve only got a day or two for the exploring Bran Castle and amazing forti­ delta, stay overnight in Tulcea and enter the fied churches such as the one in Viscri. delta via boating day trips. If you’ve got a few From here, head north to the Unesco-­ days or longer, skip Tulcea and grab a pas­ protected town of Sighişoara and its historic senger ferry to deeper, more scenic destina­ citadel. Spend the night before heading south tions such as Sulina or Sfântu Gheorghe. to the former Saxon stronghold of Sibiu. If After getting your birdwatching and boat­ you’ve got your own wheels, make a detour to ing on, return to Tulcea and take the bus or take in another gorgeous village at Biertan. drive north to Iaşi, Moldavia’s largest city. Sibiu is one of the liveliest cities in Romania, Spend a day taking in the sights. Use Iaşi as and well worth a couple of nights. a base to explore the Agapia, Văratec and From here, you’ll have to backtrack to­ Neamţ monasteries or head west and settle wards Sighişoara or head north through in at Piatra Neamţ or Târgu Neamţ. Cluj-Napoca. If you’ve got the time, this is From here, it’s a short hop to Suceava, another lively metropolis that merits at least a good base for exploring the Bucovina a night. painted monasteries. Highlights include From here push northward to Baia Mare the Voroneţ, Humor, Moldoviţa and or to Sighetu Marmaţiei, bases for ­further Suceviţa monasteries. Accessing the mon­ exploration of Maramureş. Don’t miss the asteries is tricky without a car. If travelling Merry Cemetery near Săpânţa. From by public transport, allow a couple of extra Sighetu Marmaţiei, it’s just a short hop to days. the pretty villages of Budeşti, Surdeşti and Ieud. Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first

Look out for these icons: Our author’s top A green or No payment recommendation sustainable option required See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

SOFIA �����������������������294 Tryavna ���������������������������������374 Balchik �������������������������������421 AROUND SOFIA ������������������ 315 Etâr �������������������������������������376 Kavarna �������������������������������423 Boyana ������������������������������� 315 Lovech ���������������������������������377 Kaliakra Cape ���������������������424 Vitosha Nature Park ���������316 Troyan ���������������������������������378 ������������ 380 THE DANUBE & PLOVDIV & THE Hisar �����������������������������������381 NORTHERN SOUTHERN Karlovo �������������������������������381 PLAINS ����������������������425 MOUNTAINS ������������� 319 Kazanlâk ���������������������������� 383 Vratsa ���������������������������������427 RILA MOUNTAINS ������������ 321 Shipka ���������������������������������387 Vrachanski Balkan Nature Park ������������������������ 428 Rila Village ������������������������� 321 ���������������������387 Montana ���������������������������� 428 Rila Monastery �������������������322 Sliven ���������������������������������� 390 Lopushanski Monastery �� 428 Around Rila Monastery �����324 Chiprovtsi �������������������������� 428 Borovets �����������������������������325 BLACK SEA Belogradchik �������������������� 429 PIRIN MOUNTAINS �����������327 COAST �����������������������393 Vidin ���������������������������������� 430 Blagoevgrad �����������������������328 SOUTHERN COAST �����������395 Cherepish Monastery �������431 Bansko ������������������������������ 330 Burgas ���������������������������������395 Pleven ���������������������������������431 Melnik �������������������������������� 334 Burgas Lakes �������������������� 399 Ruse �������������������������������������432 Rozhen Monastery �������������337 Sozopol ������������������������������400 Rusenski Lom BULGARIAN THRACE �������337 Ropotamo Nature Reserve ������������������������������ 404 Nature Park �����������������������437 Plovdiv ���������������������������������337 Primorsko �������������������������� 404 Lake Srebârna & Around Plovdiv ������������������ 349 Around �������������������������������� 438 Kiten ���������������������������������� 405 RODOPI MOUNTAINS ������ 350 Silistra �������������������������������� 439 Tsarevo ������������������������������ 405 Chepelare �������������������������� 350 Strandzha Nature Pamporovo �������������������������352 Park ������������������������������������ 406 Smolyan �����������������������������353 Sinemorets ������������������������ 406 Devin �����������������������������������354 CENTRAL COAST ���������������407 Pomorie �����������������������������407 VELIKO TÂRNOVO & Nesebâr �����������������������������407 CENTRAL Sunny Beach MOUNTAINS ������������� 357 (Slânchev Bryag) ��������������411 Shumen �����������������������������359 NORTHERN COAST �����������412 Madara �������������������������������362 Varna �����������������������������������412 Veliko Târnovo ������������������ 363 Sveti Konstantin ���������������419 Around Veliko Târnovo �������372 Golden Sands Dryanovo Monastery ���������374 (Zlatni Pyasâtsi) �������������� 420 Bulgaria #]

#\

#\

ROMANIA Craiova #]

Olt /·E79

+#

Vidin #\ #\ Calafat #\ #\ #\ Cherkovitsa Svishtov #\ /·E761 #\ Goulyantsi Lom Orjahovo +#

#\ #\ Kneza Pleven Levski #] Belogradchik #\ /·E79 #\ Borovan

#\Montana #] Cherven #\ Lovech Chiprovtsi Bryag #] #]Vratsa #\ Berkovica #\ Mezdra #] \# Pirot #\ Troyan +# #\ #\ Kalotina Anton #\ Sopot Novi Iskâr #\ #\ Karlovo #\ #\ #\ Hisar /·E75 #_ #\ (Hisarya) Sofia Panagyurishte Boyana #\ #\ #\ Pernik #\ Mt R Vitosha Ihtiman #\ Rila Monastery Samokov #\ Plovdiv #\ Ú# #\ Pazardzhik #\ #] #\ /·E871 Borovets Kyustendil #\ #\ #\ Peshtera #\ #\ Velingrad #\ Rila #\ Bachkovo Gyueshevo Avramovo #\ Ú# #\ Batak Monastery #\ Blagoevgrad Chepelare Devin #\ +# #\ Bansko #\ #\ #\ #\ Shiroka Lûka Pirin Pamporovo /·E79 National #\ Park Dospat #\ #÷#÷ Smolyan #\ #] Gotse Štip #\ Melnik #\ Delchev #\ Exohi GREECE Petrich Zlatarevo #\ #\ Promahonas +##\ Drama #] #] c Kavadarci #] Serres #\ R 0 100 km e# 0 50 miles

#_ Bucharest #\ Călăraşi

e

# #\ Silistra #\ Mangalia #\ Srebârna Vama Veche #\ e #\ #\ ub Durankulak an D Emona #\

Dobrich #\ Balchik #\ #]Ruse #\ Kavarna Albena #\ #\ Kaliakra Razgrad #\ #\ Golden Sands

Varna #\ (Zlatni Pyasâtsi) #] Sveti Konstantin #\ Madara #\ #\ #\ Popovo #\ Shumen Byala Targovishte #\ #\ Veliki #\ Byala Preslav #\ Omurtag Veliko Sunny Beach

Târnovo #\ (Slânchev Bryag) /·E772 #] Arbanasi #\ Kotel #\ Aitos #\ Nesebâr #\ Katunishte #\ Elena #\ #\ Pomorie Tryavna #\ #\ #\ Karnobat #] Gabrovo Sliven #\ Burgas #\ Sozopol c Shipka Pass #\ Primorsko Shipka #\ #\ Yambol #\ #\ #\ Kiten Kazanlâk #\ Novo #\ Tsarevo Zagora #\ #] Stara Sinemorets

Zagora #\ Elhovo +#

Chirpan #\ Topolovgrad #\ /·E87 Dimitrovgrad #\ #\ Kırklareli #\ /·E80 #\ Haskovo #\ #\ +# Ormenio T

#\ Kârdzhali #\

#\ Zlatograd Tekirdağ #\

Keşan #\ 288

Itiner- Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide the starting point for a trip aries of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

ROMANIA

SERBIA

BULGARIA

SOFIA É É Nesebâr

#_ É É •# Black

£# É Sea É É •#

É Burgas É •# Sozopol

•# Rila Monastery

MACEDONIA TURKEY

GREECE

Two Weeks From Sofia to the Coast

Start off with a few days in the capital, Sofia, taking time to visit a couple of the fascinating museums, galleries and churches. From Sofia, you can take a day trip out to the beautiful Rila Monastery, Bulgaria’s most important pilgrimage site and one of the country’s real highlights. Take the bus – or train, if you prefer – from Sofia to Burgas on the southern Black Sea coast. Spend at least one night in this laid-back city, and take a stroll through the lovely Maritime Park down to the beach. Take the bus for the short trip southwards along the coast to the ancient town of Sozopol, with its quaint cobbled lanes and attractive sandy beaches. Spend three or four days here, relaxing by the seaside, sampling the fresh local seafood and maybe enjoying one of the free outdoor concerts or a yacht trip around the peninsula. If you’re here in summer, catch the ferry up to Nesebâr, famed for its numerous medieval churches, and spend the day sightseeing. Return to Burgas to get the bus or train back to Sofia. 289

ROMANIA •# Silistra É

•# Ruse É ÷# Rusenski Lom Nature Park

É Pleven TRIP YOUR PLAN •# É

SERBIA •# Vratsa •# Varna •#Veliko É É Târnovo

Shipka Pass•# #_ SOFIA •# Shipka Karlovo •# É •#Kazanlâk Black •# Sea

Hisar (Hisarya) BULGARIA TNRARIES ITINER É

É •# Plovdiv

É É É Bansko •# •#Bachkovo Monastery

MACEDONIA É TURKEY Rozhen Monastery •# •# Melnik Along the Danube to the Sea GREECE Southern & Central Bulgaria

Two Weeks Three Weeks Along the Danube Southern & Central to the Sea Bulgaria

From Sofia, head north by bus to the From Sofia, catch a bus south to little town of Vratsa, where you can tranquil Melnik, famous for its spend a couple of days walking in the wine, chalky ‘pyramids’ and National mountains or visiting the interest­ Revival–era mansions. Soak up the ing museums. From here, travel by bus to sunshine for a couple of days and visit his­ Pleven where you can pick up another bus toric Rozhen Monastery nearby. Continue to Ruse, for your first glimpse of the mighty by bus to Bansko, for two or three days of Danube. One of Bulgaria’s most elegant and summer hikes or winter skiing. appealing cities, Ruse is known for its grand From Bansko, take the train as it mean­ Viennese -style architecture and boasts sev­ ders on a narrow-gauge rail through moun­ eral diverting museums, extensive parkland tainous forests before reaching , and a lively cafe scene. on the main line to Plovdiv; this city boasts Spend three or four days in Ruse, taking a sublime old town with clustered, classic a day trip south of the city to the Rusenski architecture, ancient sites, art galleries and Lom Nature Park to visit the remarkable cafes – it deserves three or four days, espe­ rock churches and caves, and maybe spot cially if you’ll also visit nearby Bachkovo some of the rare local wildlife. Monastery. Head north to Hisar, famous From Ruse head eastwards to Silistra, since antiquity for its healing waters. a quiet town on the Danube, for a relaxing Continue to quiet Karlovo for more tra­ day or two before continuing to the Black ditional ambience before visiting Kazan- Sea coast at Varna. You could easily spend lâk, famous for its ancient Thracian Tomb. several days in Bulgaria’s ‘maritime capital’. Cross the mountains at the gorgeous Ship- Relax on the long, sandy city beach, enjoy ka Pass, stopping first in Shipka village, a show or concert at one of the city’s many to see its gleaming, golden onion-domed cultural venues, or go clubbing along the vi­ church. Finally, unwind for a few days in brant seafront. Veliko Târnovo, Bulgaria’s medieval capi­ tal. In the shadow of its impressive fortress, this university city offers elegant eating and vivacious nightlife. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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