DK EYE WITNESS TRAVEL

MAIN CONTRIBUTERS: LORRAINE JOHNSON AND JOHN RYAN TABLE OF CONTENTS

DOWNTOWN CORE 9 BUILDINGS 15 ENTERTAINMENT 19 FOOD

NORTH SIDE

29 BUILDINGS 41 FOOD

SOUTH LOOP 51 BUILDINGS 58 ENTERTAINMENT 62 FOOD

SOUTH SIDE 68 BUILDINGS 74 ENTERTAINMENT

FARTHER AFIELD

82 BUILDINGS 87 ENTERTAINMENT 93 FOOD THE HISTORY The third largest city in the US is world famous for magnificent and innovative architecture, its colorful and turbulent politcal history and signifi- cance as a national transportation hub, the now-vanished stockyards, as well as its educa- tional institutes and vibrant cultrual venues.

The French missionary Jacques Marquette and French-Canadian explorer Louis Jolliet were the first Europeans to record a visit to this spot at the foot of Lake Michigan, in 1673. The peace- ful, friendly local Potawatomi Indians called the low lying swampy area “Checaugou,” which likely means “wild onion” or “skunk cabbage.”

7 THE LOCALS REFER TO DOWNTOWN AS THE LOOP

DOWNTOWN CORE 13 BUILDINGS 19 ENTERTAINMENT 23 FOOD DOWNTOWN CORE Bordered on the north and on the west by the Chicago River, on the east by Lake Michigan, and on the south by the Congress Parkway, the Downtown Core is Chicago’s historic and financial center. The downtown’s nucleus is the Loop, named for the elevated train tracks encircling it. Even though the area was com- pletely destroyed by the Great Fire of 1871, a mere two decades later it had been rebuilt with pioneering skyscrapers, including the Marquette Building.

11 BUILDINGS

WILLIS TOWER MARQUETTE

233 S WACKER DR In 2009 Sears Tower was renamed . It 140 S DEARBORN ST Considered the premier remaining example of was the tallest building in the world from the time of its the Chicago School of architecture, the Marquette 9 AM–10 PM construction in 1973 until 1997 when the Petronas Twin 24 HOURS Building was designed by Holabird and Roche in 1895. DAILY Towers were built in Kuala Lumpur. In 2000 it regained DAILY Tip: Take Blue line to Monroe. its status as the worlds tallest structure when one of 312.875.9696 its antennas was extended. 312.422.5500 DOWNTOWN CORE

THE ROOKERY MICHIGAN AVENUE BRIDGE

209 LASALLE ST When the Rookery opened in 1888, it was the tallest MICHIGAN AVE Linking with the , this bridge, the building in the world. The 12-story building, designed first double-deck trunnion bascule bridge ever built, was 8 AM–6 PM by the influential firm Burnham and Root in the Richardso- 24 HOURS completed in 1920. Spanning the Chicago River, the two MON–FRI nian Romanesque style has a dark red brick facade with DAILY leaves, each weighing 3,340 tones, open by turning on terra-cotta trim and a rough granite base. enormous trunnion bearings on the banks. 312.553.6100 Tip: Take Brown line to Quincy or Jackson. Tip: Take Red line to Lake/State.

DOWNTOWN CORE, BUILDINGS 13 AUDITORIUM BUILDING

430 S MICHIGAN AVE Designed by Dankmar Adler and Louis Sullivan, their first major commission together, the Auditorium Building, with 7.30 AM–10.30 PM its walls of smooth limestone typical of the Richardsonian MON–THURS Romanesque style rising above the rough granite base, 312.341.3500 broke many records and achieved a number of firsts. Tip: Take Brown line to Quincy or Jackson.

AUDITORIUM,FINE ARTS,

FINE ARTS BUILDING

410 S MICHIGAN AVE Although now closely associated with fine art and culture, 1 S STATE ST It is appropriate that such an architectural gem as the the Fine Arts Building was originally commissioned by Sullivan Center, which until 2007, housed one of Chicago’s 10 AM–8 PM 7 AM–10 PM Studebaker Brothers Manufacturing to house a wagon oldest department stores, rest at Chicago’s ground-zero MON–SAT MON–FRI carriage showroom. The name “Studebake” inscribed address of State and Madison, the starting point for the 312.675.5500 312.566.9800 outside in stone is still visible above the first floor. city’s street numbering system. Tip: Take Red line to Monroe or Washington. DOWNTOWN CORE

MACY’S RELIANCE BUILDING

111 N STATE ST No other retail establishment is, perhaps as important to 32 N STATE ST. The Reliance Building’s two-stage construction was as Chicago’s cultural history as Marshall Field’s department unusual as were the structural support techniques used. 10 AM–8 PM store, which became part of the Macy’s chain in 2006. 24 HOURS The leases for the upper floors of the original building MON–FRI The store now occupies an entire city block. DAILY on the site did not expire until 1894, so when worked on the new Reliance Building began in 1890, the upper Tip: Take Red line to Washington 312.781.1000 312.781.1111 floors were supported on jack screws and the lower stories demolished. Tip: Take Red line to Monroe or Washington.

DOWNTOWN CORE, BUILDINGS 15 R.R DONNELLEY BUILDING

77 W WACKER DR. The R.R. Donnelley Building, a modern 50-story office tower overlooking the Chicago River, is one of the more 24 HOURS recent skyscrapers to be built in the Downtown Core. DAILY Designed by Chicago architect James DeStefano, with famed Catalan architect Ricardo Bofill as the design 312.917.1177 consultant, the building combines classical aesthetic with Chicago school functionality.

JAMES R. THOMPSON CENTER

100 W RANDOLPH ST The James R. Thompson Center is a refreshing change from the rectangular skyscrapers that make up Chicago’s 6:30 AM–6PM Downtown. Architect Helmut John designed the center MON–FRI as a symbol of open democratic government, one with no barriers between it and the people. 312.814.6684 DOWNTOWN CORE

CLOUD GATE

MILLENNIUM PARK The Cloud Gate sculpture was renowned British artist Anish Kapoor. This giant elliptical structure (nicknamed The 24 HOURS Bean) has a highly polished surface, which is designed to DAILY reflect the park and surroundings. It is Kapoor’s first public work installed in the US.

CLOUD GATE,

DOWNTOWN CORE, BUILDINGS 17 ENTERTAINMENT

ORIENTAL THEATER CIVIC OPERA HOUSE

24 W RANDOLPH ST The oriental Theater occupies the site of one of the worst 20 N WACKER DR Civic Opera House is one of Chicago’s historic landmarks theater fires in US history: just weeks after the opening in and among the world’s most beautiful buildings. Built in 11 AM 1903, fire broke out in Iroquois Theater, claiming almost HOURS VARY 1929 and fully restored in 1996, the Civic Opera House SAT 600 lives. The theater was rebuilt and operated until 1925, is a hybrid of Art Nouveau and designs and a when it was demolished. 312.419.0033 majestic setting for entertaining on any scale. 312.782.2004 Tip: Take Red line to Washington. DOWNTOWN CORE

CHICAGO CULTURAL CENTER MICHIGAN AVENUE BRIDGE

78 E WASHINGTON ST Built between 1893 and 1897 as the city’s main library, MICHIGAN AVE Linking the loop with the Magnificent Mile, this the building was dedicated in 1991 as the Chicago Cultural bridge, the first double-deck trunnion bascule bridge 8 AM–7 PM Center to showcase and celebrate the performing, visual 24 HOURS ever built, was completed in 1920. Spanning the MON–THURS and literary arts. DAILY Chicago River, the two leaves, each weighing 3,340 tones, open by turning on enormous trunnion bear- 312.744.6630 ings on the banks. Tip: Take Red line to Lake/State.

DOWNTOWN CORE, ENTERTAINMENT 19 THE OLDEST SURVIVING

CHICAGO THEATER

175 N STATE ST Slated for demolition in the 1980s but 312.462.6363 reprieved, this grand 3,800-seat theater has been restored to its former glory. The oldest surviving theater in Chicago, it was

designed by Rapp and Rapp in 1921 and DOWNTOWN CORE originally was a vaudeville movie palace.

The Chicago Theatre was the first large, lavish movie palace in America and was the prototype for all others. This beauti- ful movie palace was constructed for $4 million by theatre owners Barney and Abe Balaban and Sam and Morris Katz and designed by Cornelius and George Rapp. It was the flagship of the Balaban and Katz theatre chain.

DOWNTOWN CORE, FOOD 21 FOOD

$ CAFECITO $ HANNAH’S BRETZEL

26 E CONGRESS This busy lunch spot is a favorite with locals. Cuban 180 W WASHINGTON ST A popular lunch spot for Loop workers, this sleek, modern PARKWAY specialties such as freshly made grilled sandwiches, storefront specializes in pretzel-like German “pretzels” home-made soups, and rope vieja offer a culinary treat 312.621.111 made into sandwiches with toppings like prosciutto, 312.922.2233 amongst the fast-food chains in the South Loop. The gruyere cheese, vegetables, and more. The store also of- coffee and sweet treats are also excellent. There can fers over 20 different brands of gourmet chocolates from be a line at lunchtime, but it’s worth the wait. all over the world. DOWNTOWN CORE

$ FRONTERA FRESCO $ $ $ HEAVEN ON SEVEN

MACY’S Celebrity chef Rick Bayless offers value and intense GARLAND BUILDING Gregarious chef/owner Jimmy Bannos has been serving 111 N STATE ST flavors at this lunchtime eatery located inside the 17th 111 N WABASH AVE spicy Cajun and Creole fare for lunches and breakfasts floor food court of Macy’s. Poblano pepper and cheese (7TH FLOOR) here for more than 25 years. Loop breakfast regulars 312.781.4483 tacos, pork and avocado tortas, and fresh fruit drinks enjoy bananas Foster french toast and sausage omelets; are menu highlights. 312.263.6443 lunch highlights are jambalaya, Louisiana crab cakes, and po’boys. Dinner server every third Friday of the month.

DOWNTOWN CORE, FOOD 23 $ POTBELLY $ $ ITALIAN VILLAGE

190 N STATE ST Fresh-made baked sandwiches and salads, 71 W MONROE ST For old-school Chicago Italian, this is the place to go. hand-dipper shakes and malts, and a relaxed This historic complex houses three restaurants. The 312.683.1234 setting filled with antiques has made this growing 312.332.7005 second-floor Village specializing in big bowls of pasta; the cheap-eats spot one of the city’s most popular. lower-level Catina Enoteca, for steak and seafood; and the Go for the Wreck, a meat-lover’s delight of salami, contemporary Vivere, a modern space with dishes such roast beef, turkey, ham, and Swiss cheese on a as pappardelle with rabbit and fennel. chewy Italian roll.

$ $ AVEC $ $ PARK GRILL

615 W RANDOLPH ST This hot spot is long, tight, and narrow 11 N MICHIGAN AVE Prime location in the heart of Millennium Park has made with communal tables, cedar walls, and ceiling, and this comfortable American spot one of the Loop’s most 312.377.2002 accents of stainless steel and glass, giving it a chic, 312.521.7275 buzzing restaurants. Front windows offer great views spa-like feel. The food is just as cool—a rustic Mediterra- of the park’s plaza. The creative menu features favorite nean menu of nibbles such as chorizo-stuffed dates and dishes like thyme-roasted sea scallops, slow-roasted prosciutto di parma. sucking pig, and one of the best burgers in the city. DOWNTOWN CORE

$ $ $ ATWOOD CAFE

1 W WASHINGTON ST In the landmark, Daniel Burnham-designed Reliance Building, this relaxed Hotel Burnham restaurant features 312.368.1900 whimsical decor and playful American fare from chef Heather Terhune. Menu favorites include graham cracker fried calamari, chicken pot pie, and pan-seared scallops with pumpkin risotto.

POTBELLY, AVEC

DOWNTOWN CORE, FOOD 25 $ $ $ RHAPSODY $ $ $ TRATTORIA NO.10

65 E ADAMS ST For pre-concert dining, this sunny Loop restaurant is the 10 N DEARBORN ST Rich wood accents and warm colors give this place. A well-heeled crowd gathers for American fare; contemporary Italian spot a masculine feel. Close to the 312.786.9911 dishes on the seasonal menu might include blackened 312.984.1718 downtown Theater District, the restaurant is popular as a short ribs with bamboo shoots or mahi-mahi with dried pre-show destination and for its weeknights $12 appetizer winter fruit couscous. Lovely outdoor garden is lush buffet. Expect a modern take on Italian classics such as and urban. pasta with duck confit and asparagus.

$ $ $ THE GAGE

24 S MICHIGAN AVE This upscale tavern is a fine destination for a casual lunch of burgers or fish and chips or a special occasion meal of 312.372.4243 bone-in filet mignon or seared bigeye tuna. Settle in for a drink at the handsome mahogany front bar or grab a table in one of the stylish, intimate dining rooms, which features sage subway tiles and plush, leather booths. DOWNTOWN CORE

THE GAGE

$ $ $ $ BLACKBIRD $ $ $ RUSSIAN TEA TIME

619 W RANDOLPH ST James Beard Award-winning chef and Chicago native 77 E ADAMS ST With its Old World ambiance and elegant red decor, dining Paul Kahan heads up the kitchen at this sleep, minimalist at this Loop restaurant can feel like being in a Moscow tea 312.715.0708 American spot on Randolph Street’s Restaurant Row. Pork 312.360.0000 room. Dig into cold borscht and warm potato pancakes belly is one of the specialties-try it in a delectable lunch with sour cream and applesauce, as well as meat-stuffed sandwich topped with slaw, or with knackwurst, potatoes, pelmeni and chicken kenbobs. and sauerkraut at dinner.

DOWNTOWN CORE, FOOD 27 HEAD TO THE RESERVOIR FOR A BEEF HOT DOG WRAPPED IN BACON!

NORTH SIDE 33 BUILDINGS 45 FOOD NORTH SIDE

Just north of the Chicago River, Chicago’s North Side encompasses several neighbor- hoods, most settled in the mid 1800s by Irish, German, and Swedish immigrants. Tragically, the 1871 fire razed the entire area. The communities rose from the ashes and today the Magnificent Mile, Gold Coast, , and River North are all upscale residential and shopping districts. Modest Old Town is an eclectic mix of residences, shops, and entertain- ment venues.

31 BUILDINGS

WRIGLEY BUILDING HERSHEY’S CHICAGO

400–410 N MICHIGAN AVE The rests on a historical site: it was to 1822 NORTH MICHIGAN AVE When candy-maker Milton Hershey visited the city of here that Jesuit missionary jacques Marquette and Chicago in 1893, he purchased the equipment that he 24 HOURS explorer Louis joliet made their first portage west of the 10 AM–8 PM would use to revolutionize the chocolate industry. DAILY Great Lakes in the 1670s, and here that La Sa lle planted SUN–THURS With mass production he was able to lower the cost the flag of France. Chewing-gum manufacturer William of manufacturing milk chocolate, once a luxury item, 312.923.8080 Wrigley, Jr. commissioned the architectural firm Graham, 312.337.7711 making it affordable to all. Anderson, Probst and White to design the building. Tip: Take Red line to Chicago.

FOURTH PRESBYTERIAN SIDE NORTH CHURCH

435 N MICHIGAN AVE The 36-story limestone Tribune Tower is the winning 866 N MICHIGAN AVE The 1871 fire destroyed the original Fourth Presbyterian design of a 1922 international competition sponsored by Church, at Wabash and Grand, the night it was dedicated. 24 HOURS the Tribune Company to celebrate the 75th anniversary 8 AM–8 PM The current building (1914) is the oldest surviving structure DAILY of the Chicago Tribune, the newspaper whose offices still SUN (after the Water Tower) on Michigan Avenue,north of occupy the building. the river. 312.222.3232 Tip: Take Red line to Grand. Tip: Take Red line to Chicago.

NORTH SIDE, BUILDINGS 33

875 N MICHIGAN AVE Affectionately called “Big john” by Chicagoans, John Hancock Center stands out as a bold feature 9 AM–11 PM of the Chicago skyline. The 100-story building has DAILY 18-story-long steel braces crisscrossing the tapering obelisk tower like stacked Xs. 312.654.289 Tip: Take Red line to Chicago

JOHN HANCOCK CENTER, DRAKE HOTEL, MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART

MUSEUM OF OAK STREET CONTEMPORARY ART BETWEEN RUSH ST & Tree-lined Oak Street at the north end of the Magnifi- 220 E CHICAGO AVE Founded in 1967, the Museum of Contemporary Art N MICHIGAN AVE cent Mile is home to many upscale boutiques: Pra- offers innovative exhibits that interpret and present da, Hermes, Sonia Rykiel, Luca Luca, and Jil Sander. 10 AM–8 PM contemporary art Designed by Berlin architect Josef Paul TUES–SUN 24 HOURS The Daisy Shop specializes in vintage couture Kleihues, the sleek building has four floors of naturally

DAILY resale clothing. Wolford Boutique sells European 312.280.2660 lit exhibition space. hosiery and swimwear. Tip: Take Red line to Chicago. Tip: Take Red line to Chicago

CHICAGO CHILDREN’S SIDE NORTH DRAKE HOTEL MUSEUM

140 E WALTON PL The essence of luxury in the heart of the Magnificent Mile, 700 E GRAND AVE AT Chicago Children’s Museum, focusing on activating the 537-room Drake Hotel opened in 1920. Designed by the intellectual and creative potential of children age Marshall and Fox, and inspired by the Italian Renaissance, 1 to 12, is an activity center for the whole family. All 312.787.2200 10AM–8PM exhibits are hands-on. Kids can build a fort in the Under this 13-story hotel is clad in limestone. MON–SAT Construction exhibit, climb three stories of rope-rigging Tip: Take Red line to Chicago. on the Kovler Schooner, or make a flying machine in the Inventing Lab.

NORTH SIDE, BUILDINGS 35 THE SECOND TALLEST BUILDING IN CHICAGO

TRUMP INTERNATIONAL HOTEL & TOWER

401 N WABASH AVE Completed in 2009 as the second-tallest 312.588.8000 building in Chicago after Willis Tower, Trump Tower stands sleek and shiny on me edge of the Chicago River, reflecting the skyline in its stainless steel and glass facade. At 92 stories 77 and 1,392 ft (425 m) tall, it is a significant addition to the Chicago skyline. It houses shops, a hotel, and condominiums, breaking the john Hancock Center’s record as Chicago’s SIDE NORTH tallest residence. Non-residents can enjoy dinner at the hotel restaurant on the 16th floor, or the terrace lounge. Both offer spectacular panoramic vistas of Lake Michigan, the Chicago River, and the city.

DOWNTOWN CORE, FOOD 37 AND ST. JAMES IBM BUILDING EPISCOPAL CATHEDRAL 300 N STATE ST The two towers of Marina City pay symbolic tribute to 65 E HURON ST The parishioners of St. James have worshiped at the Midwest’s farming economy—they look like giant this site since 1857. After their original building was 24 HOURS corncobs. Designed by Bertrand Goldberg Associates 10.30 AM destroyed in the Great Fire of 1871 (only the 1867 bell DAILY and opened in 1967, these twin circular towers function SUN tower survived), architects Burling and Adler were hired like a city within a city, with apartments, offices, shops, to design a new building. parking, a marina, and even a bowling alley. 312.787.7360 Tip: Take Red lines to Chicago.

RIVER NORTH ARCHDIOCESE OF CHICAGO GALLERY DISTRICT AND CHAPEL OF ST. JAMES BETWEEN N WELLS River North is home to more than 65 art galleries, the 835 N RUSH ST. The Archdiocese of Chicago is in the process of moving & N ORLEANS largest concentration outside New York City. Some of into the former Quigley Seminary, which closed in 2007. Chicago’s finest antique and home-furnishing shops are OPEN TO PUBLIC Designed by Zachary T. Davis (architect of Wrigley Field) also located here. West Superior Street is the center of and Gustave E. Steinback and completed in 1919, this the district. 312.535.8200 Gothic building has carved buttresses and spires. Tip: Take Brown or Purple lines to Chicago. Tip: Take Red lines to Chicago.

RICHARD H. AND RANDOM SIDE NORTH R.

40 & 25 E ERIE ST The Richard H. Driehaus Museum offers a glimpse 60 W WALTON ST At the north end of Washington Square Park is into the wealthy world of late-1800s Chicago high the impressive Newberry Library. Founded in TUES, WEDS, SAT society. Commissioned by Samuel Nickerson, a HOURS VARY, 1887 by Walter Newberry, a merchant and banker, FOR TOURS distillery owner and banker, this Italian Renaissance CALL AHEAD this independent research library for the humanities palazzo was designed in 1883 by Chicago church- -—one of the best in the US-opened to the public architects Burling and Whitehouse and, after restora- 312.943.9090 in 1893. Henry Ives Cobb, master architect of the tion, is now a museum. Richardsonian Romanesque style, was the designer. Tip: Take Red lines to Chicago.

NORTH SIDE, BUILDINGS 39 ST. MICHAEL’S CHURCH WACKER HOUSE

1633 N CLEVELAND AVE The original St. Michael’s Church was a small brick 1836 & 1838 Both the Charles H. Wacker House and the Frederick building built in 1852. As St. Michael’s small congre- N LINCOLN PARK Wacker House, designed in the early 1870s by an 9 AM,7 PM gation expanded, it outgrew the building. The unknown architect, are highly ornate examples of the cornerstone for a new church was laid in 1866. OPEN TO PUBLIC Chicago cottage style. In just three years the building’s construction, over- seen by builder August Wallbaum, was complete.

CRILLY COURT AND OLSEN- HANSEN ROW HOUSES

CRILLY CT: Representing two different approaches to Queen NORTH OF W EUGENIE Anne-style row-house design are Crilly Court and the ST BETWEEN N WELLS Olsen-Hansen Row Houses. Crilly Court was created in ST & N PARK AVE 1885 by real-estate developer Daniel F. Crilly, when he bought a city block and cut a north-south street through it, OPEN TO PUBLIC which he named after himself.

ST. MICHAEL’S CHURCH, MENOMONEE STREET, NORTH SIDE NORTH MENOMONEE STREET CHICAGO HISTORY MUSEUM

FROM N SEDGWICK ST Menomonee Street lies in the heart of Old Town Triangle 1601 N CLARK ST Founded in 1856, the Chicago History Museum, formerly TO LINCOLN PARK Historic District (bounded by Cleveland Street and North known as the Chicago Historical Society, is the city’s and Lincoln Avenues), a delightful area of vintage cottages 9:30 AM–4:30 PM oldest cultural institution. A major museum and research and Queen Anne-style row houses settled in the mid- MON–SAT center, it boasts more than 22 million objects,images, 1800s by working-class German immigrants. and documents relating to the history Chicago and . 312.642.4600

NORTH SIDE, BUILDINGS 41 1550 NORTH STATE PARKWAY

1500 NORTH STATE When it opened in 1912, this apartment building overlook- PARKWAY ing Lincoln Park epitomized the luxury of the Gold Coast. Designed by Marshall and Fox, the 12-story Beaux-Arts OPEN TO PUBLIC structure is faced with white terra-cotta.

312.943.9090

1500 NORTH ASTOR STREET

1500 NORTH ASTOR ST This opulent four-story Italian Renaissance palazzo was built in 1893 for Chicago Tribune publisher Joseph Medill OPEN TO PUBLIC as a wedding gift for his daughter. Designed by McKim, Mead and White, it is build of orange Roman brick, with terra-cotta trim. NORTH SIDE NORTH OAK STREET BEACH

BETWEEN E DIVISION Just steps from Chicago's Magnificent Mile is the fashion- & E OAK STS, AT N & able Oak Street Beach, one of the city's several beaches E LAKE SHORE DR that together form a sanely chain along the lakefront. As well as providing a great view of Lake Michigan, the OPEN TO THE PUBLIC Gold Coast, and towering North Side buildings, Oak Street Beach presents a good opportunity to don swimsuit and sandals.

OAK STREET BEACH, E LAKE SHORE DRIVE

NORTH SIDE, BUILDINGS 43 FOOD

$ M. HENRY $ ED DEBEVIC’S

5707 N CLARK ST In the blossoming north side neighborhood of Edgewater, 640 N WELLS ST One part dine, one part theme restaurant, this ‘50s-style this charming storefront restaurant is decked out with hangout is all about sassy, entertaining service-your 773.561.1600 painted hanging window frames as cheeky room dividers. 312.664.1707 waiter may suddenly hop up on the counter and do a The American menus is just as whimsical, with such items dance routine-offered up with a menu of classic American as birds in a basket (two eggs cooked inside bread slices) favorites like hamburgers, nachos, chili, hot dogs, and blackberry bliss cakes. and milkshakes. NORTH SIDE NORTH $ $ $ HOPLEAF BAR $ EDWARDO’S NATURAL PIZZA

5148 N CLARK In the airy back dining room of this cozy hangout in Ander- 1212 N DEARBORN ST This cozy, casual Gold Coast restaurant is worth a visit for sonville, a relaxed crowd digs into the celebrated mussels, the impossibly cheesy stuffed spinach pie flecked with 773.334.9851 steamed in white Belgian ale and served in a big kettle 312.337.4490 greens and oozing with mozzarella. Other menu offerings with crispy frites on the side. Another tempting option is include calzones, Italian beef sandwiches, and plates of the toasted Nueske ham sandwich with gruyere cheese lasagna, mostaccioli, and spaghetti with pesto sauce. and apple-tarragon coleslaw.

NORTH SIDE, FOOD 45 $ FEAST RESTAURANT & BAR $ FIRST SLICE CAFE

1616 N DAMEN AVE Just off the Magnificent Mile, this spacious, buzzing joint 811 MICHIGAN AVE This little non-profit eatery urges you to “fight hunger with is the city’s top destination for stuffed pizza, with spinach, a fork”. Located as it is among the high-end restaurants 773.772.7100 sausage, and mushrooms actually stuffed between top 312.262.1227 of the Magnificent Mile, this restaurant offers high quality and bottom crusts. Aside from pizza, the menu offers fried fare at reasonable prices. Go for the pear and arugula treats-cheese sticks, mushrooms, zucchini-plus salads, pizza, baked in a brick over, or a light quiche. Sweet pies pasta, and sandwiches. Attracts a local crowd. are their specialty.

$ MR. BEEF

666 N ORLEANS ST The city’s best Italian beef sandwich can be found at this unassuming River North Shack. Step up to the counter 312.337.8500 and place your order, then head to the dining room, where blue-collar workers rub elbows with CEOs at long, institu- tional tables. The beef sandwich is sublime- wet, sloppy, and perfect with a bag of skinny, crispy fries.

GOOSE ISLAND BREWERY NORTH SIDE NORTH $ GOOSE ISLAND BREWERY $ NOOKIES

1800 N CLYBOURN AVE Chicago’s brewery scene is on the rise, and this award 1746 N WELLS ST From Greek omelets to banana nut pancakes, from grilled winning outfit is the leader of the pack. This comfortable, salmon salads to turkey burgers, plus meatloaf, macaroni 312.915.0071 capacious pub offers up signature brews like 312 and 312.337.2454 and cheese, wraps, pastas and more, this casual, cozy Old Honker’s Ale along with a satisfying menu of pub grub­— Town hangout has long been a neighborhood favorite for think burgers and wings, quesadillas, and chopped salads. reasonably priced breakfasts, lunches, and dinners. Expect a wait for the weekend brunch. It’s bring your own beer.

NORTH SIDE, FOOD 47 $ PIZZA METRO $ TWISTED SPOKE

1707 W DIVISION ST A favorite for late-night, post-bar cravings in Wicker Park, 501 N OGDEN AVE Cheeky biker-bar attitude and surprisingly good comfort this casual counter provides some great people-watching food keep the crowds coming to this casual hangout west 773.278.1753 along with custom-made, by-the-slice, thin-crust pizza with 312.666.1500 of downtown. The Fatboy burgers are a must-try;other creative toppings such as potato rosemary, blue cheese, popular items include meatloaf and barbecue pork and zucchini. Also on the menu: pasta dishes such as sandwiches. There is a great rooftop deck in summer, too. penne arrabiata and Caesar salads.

$ $ OLD JERUSALEM $ $ BANDERA

1411 N WELLS ST Middle Eastern fare is done well and cheaply- at this mod- 535 N MICHIGAN AVE Overlooking Michigan Ave., this second floor hidden gem est storefront BYOB restaurant in Old Town. From starters draws crowds of business folk for relaxed sophistication 312.944.0459 of stuffed grape leaves and creamy hummus with pita to 312.644.3524 at lunch and dinner with a simple, comforting menu of platters of shwarma and one of the city’s finest falafel, the American-style Southern fusion. Favorites include rotis- menu has tempting choices, most of which are well under serie chicken, fresh-from-the-skillet cornbreak, and ten dollars. a macho salad with greens, goat cheese, dates and shredded chicken. NORTH SIDE NORTH $ $ CAFE IBERICO

737 N LASALLE DR Filled with a lively Spanish-speaking crowd, this traditional tapas restaurant if group-friendly, with large communal 312.573.1510 tables in several dining rooms. Pitchers of re sangria are the drink of choice; the menu is full of Spanish favorites like potatoes with garlic mayo, baked goat cheese, and grilled shrimp with garlic.

BANDERA, TWISTED SPOKE

NORTH SIDE, FOOD 49 $ $ CARMINE’S $ $ TWIN ANCHORS

1043 NORTH RUSH ST This popular Gold Coast spot attracts thirty and forty 1655 N SEDGWICK ST Tender baby back ribs are the draw at this convivial Old something high rollers with a taste for Italian influenced Town tavern, here since 1932. Christmas lights twinkle 312.9887676 steak, seafood, and stiff drinks. The main dining room gets 312.266.1616 year round, and the walls are covered with rave reviews. loud and boisterous with live entertainment and chatty The menu offers burgers, chicken, sandwiches, and steak, bar patrons; the upstairs is a mellower scene. Highlights but everybody orders the ribs with zesty or mild sauce. include chicken Vesuvio with garlic.

$ $ FIREPLACE INN $ $ $ BISTRO 110

1448 N WELLS ST An Old Town institution since 1969, this comfy, low lit 100 EAST PEARSON ST Steps from Michigan Avenue is this lively French bistro, dining room is famous for its barbecued back ribs and where local ladies lunch side by side with tourists laden 312.664.5264 comfort food. The menu offers plenty of other hearty fare 312.266.3110 with shopping. Chef Dominique Tougne’s cuisine is as well- fried calamari, broiled chicken, cheeseburgers, authentic and reliable good. Signature dishes include arti- chili, and mashed potatoes with gravy. For a more casual choke baked with brie and rich, hearty chicken and morels experience, sit on the bright all-weather patio. “Paul Bocuse”. NORTH SIDE NORTH $ $ MITY NICE GRILL $ $ $ CAFE SPIAGGIA

835 N MICHIGAN AVE A fine, family-friendly spot in , this 980 N MICHIGAN AVE Adjacent to four-star Spiaggia, this more casual sibling WATER TOWER PL 1940s-style restaurant provides a relaxed alternative to LEVEL TWO restaurant offers equally excellent cuisine at reasonable MEZZANINE LEVEL the frenetic shopping center’s food court (grab one of the prices. Copies of 15th-century Italian murals; window comfy, oversized leather booths). Serves smart updates 312.280.2750 tables offer pleasant views. Dishes might include Tuscan 312.335.4745 of classic American fare from Asian tuna nachos to turkey bean soup; slow-roasted pork with creamy polenta; and burgers, and classic meatloaf. gnocchi with wild boar ragu.

NORTH SIDE, FOOD 51 $ $ $ CYRANO’S BISTROT $ $ $ ROSEBUD ON RUSH

546 N WELLS ST Decorated in charming country French style with cheerful 720 N RUSH ST A Chicago classic for traditional Italian fare, this River yellow walls and shelves full of knickknacks, this rustic North restaurant boasts a coy atmosphere and quality 312.467.0546 River North spot is cozy, romantic date destination. The 312.266.6444 food. Generous starts such as sausage and peppers, menu offers traditional dishes like vichyssoise and confit and stuffed mushrooms lead into plates of spaghetti with of duck leg; the downstairs Cafe Simone features regular meatballs or rigatoni alla vodka; the menu also offers lamb cabaret acts on weekends and a special menu. or veal chops and several prime steaks.

$ $ $ FRONTERA GRILL

445 N CLARK ST One of the nation’s most acclaimed Mexican restaurants, this art-filled room is the brainchild of star chef Rick Bay- 312.661.1434 less, who crafts fine regional fare such as duck enchiladas and skatewing with cilantro sauce. This packed bar is a great place for margaritas and fresh, chunky guacamole.

ROSEBUD ON RUSH NORTH SIDE NORTH $ $ $ LE COLONIAL $ $ $ SALPICON

937 N RUSH ST Rattan chairs, ceiling fans, and lush foliage transport din- 1252 N WELLS ST On a quiet strip of Wells Street in Old Town sits this whim- ers to 1920s era Southeast Asia at this elegant, upscale sical, upscale Mexican restaurant with bold, colorful decor. 312.255.0088 French-Vietnamese hot spot. Delicate nibbles lick chao 312.988.7811 Amiable husband and wife team Priscilla and Vincent Sat- tom and grilled sesame beef rolls are on offer. Try the chic koff offer flavorful fare, from blue marlin ceviche to pork upstairs lounge for the mango martinis. tenderloin with roasted tomato-chipotle sauce.

NORTH SIDE, FOOD 53 INDEX

A American- United Cab 190 ATM Systems 180 Buckingham Fountain 85 Boyington, William W. 63 Local 190 Amtrak at Union Station 187 Atwood, Charles 30 Chicago Theatre 54 Boystown 121 Long Distance 186 Abbey Pub 173 Andy’s 173 Macy’s 51 1550 North Parkway 74 Bread Riot 16 Butch McGuire’s 173 Abraham Lincoln 122 Ann Sather’s 121 Reliance Building 50 Bed and Breakfasts 139 Breedlove, Craig 108 Button and Fabric Shops 184 Actors 30-31 Annual House Tour 34 Auditorium Building 44 Beeby, Thomas 82 Bridgeport 28 Byrne, Jane 19 Addams, Jane 31 Antigues Shops 164, 166 Auditorium Theatre 171 Belushi, John 30 British Airways 185 Hull-House 17 125 Australian Embassy 177 Belvedere Mansion 128,134 British Embassy 177 C Hull-House Museum 116 The Apple Store 166 Automated teller machine 48 Berman, Solon Spencer British Midland 185 Alder and Sullican 87 Aquariums Autumn in Chicago 34-35 Fine Arts Building 41,45 Broadway in Chicago 170 Cable House 66 Auditorium Building 41, 44 Archbishop of Chicago 73, 75 Avis 191 Kimball House 90 Broderick, New 91 Cafe Brauer 112 Chicago Stock Exchange 49 Archdiocese of Chicago 67 Aykroyd, Dan 30 Pullan Historic District 119 Brookfield Zoo 117 Cafe Jumping Ben 116 Joesph Deimel House 95 Architectural Artifacts 166 Rosalie Villas 105 Brooks, Gwendolyn 31 Calder, Alexander 23, 42 Pilgrim Baptist Church 95 Architecture 24-27 B Bennett, Edward H. 85 Buckingham, Clarence 85 Caldwell Lily Pool 123 African Americans 18, 29 architects 30 Benny, Jack 30 Buckingham, Kate 85 Camera Shops 164, 166 Ahlschlager, Walter W. 32 Chicago’s Best 24-26 Bahai’s House of Worship 32 The Berghoff 173 Buckingham Fountain 85 Capone, Al 18, 31 Air Canada 185 Armstrong, Louis 30 Balloon fram construction 26 Best Buy 164 Bucktown Arts Fest 33 Carl Hammer Gallery 166 Air Travel 184–185 Arnaud, Pierre 55 Bang & Olufsen 166 Betsey Johnson 166 Bud Billiken Day Parade 33 Carrel, Alexis 75 airports 18, Art and Craft Supplies 164, Bank of America 181 Bicycling 32, 188 Buddy Guy’s Legends 173 Carson Pierie Scott 50 fares 185 Art Deco 166 Bank of America Theater 171 Black Belt 29 Budget Car Rentals 191 Cassatt, Mary 47 Airport Shuttles 185 Chicago Board of Trade 40 Bank notes 181 District 29 Burling and Adler 67 Castaways 173 Akeley, Carl 88 Russel House 73,76 Barbara’s Bookstore 166 Block 37 Burling and Whitehouse 66 Cellihire 183 Alamo Car Rental 191 Art Galleries 164,166 Barnett, Ferdinand Lee 95 Block Museum of Art 130 Burnes-Jones, Edward 90 Cell phones 183 Alan Koppel Gallery 166 River North District 66 Barneys New York 166 Bloomingdale’s 163 Burnham, Daniel H. 27 Central Camera 166 Alfred Caldwell Lily Pool 123 11 Barrett, Nathan F. 119 Blossom House 105 Field Museum 25 Charlie’s 173 Alta Vista Terrace 114 Art on Harrison 34 Barrows, Daniel 135 Blues 172 Macy’s 51 Charnley, James 76 Altamn’s Mens Shoes 167 Arts and Crafts 91 Bars & Taverns 172, 173 Boat Tours 188 Plan of Chicago 85 Chase Bank 181 Alumni Memorial Hall 94 Asher Library 84 Baseball 32 Bofill, Ricardo 55 Santa Fe Building 45 Checker Taxi 190 American Airlines 185 Asians 29 Basketball 31, 34 Bond Chapel 100 Burnham and Root Monad- Chesbrough, Ellis 57 American Constitution 74 Astor, John Jacob 72 Bauhaus 27 Books 164 nock Building 44 Chicago Bears 34, 171 American Express 181 Astor Court 73 Beaches Borling, John L. 69 Reliance Building 50 Chicago Carifete 33 American Girl Place 167 Astor Street 72-73 Forest Park Beach 133 Bourgeois, Louise 132 The Rookery 40 125 American Gothic Wood 47 AT&T Plaza 53 Oak Street Beach 77 Bouton House 25 Buses Chicago City Pass 177 Indian Population 29 Athletes 31 Beaux-Arts architecture Bowman 84 Guided Tours 188 Chicago Detours 190

INDEX 55

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS DESIGN AND EDITORIAL ASSISTANCE Emma Anacootee, Clair Baranowski, Kathie Bergquist, Sherry Collins, Conrad van Dyk, Karen Fitzpatrick, Jacky Jackson, Laura Jones, Nicola Malone, Sam Merrell, Catherine Palmi, Amanda Scotese, Susana Smith, Rada Radojicic, Brett Stell, Laura Viera, Ros Walford.

Dorling kindersley and international book ADDITIONAL PICTURE RESEARCH productions would like to thank the following Rachel Barber, Marta Bescos, Rhiannon Furbear, Ellen Root people whose contributions and assistance SPECIAL ASSISTANCE have made the book possible. Particular thanks go to Vaneeta Anderson, Chicago Office of Tourism; Norah Zboril, City of Chicago, Mayor’s Office, ADDITIONAL CONTRIBUTORS Special Events; Daniel J. Curtin, City of Chicago, Depart- J.P Anderson, Penney Kome ment of Aviation; Jeff Stern, Chicago Transit Authority; Diana Holic and Dawn Kappel, and SPECIAL RESEARCH AStronomy Museum; Brigid Murphy, Newberry Library; Dana Joy Altman Mily Anzo, Museum; Corey Tovian and Gwen Biassi, John Deanna Cates G. Shedd Aquarium; Rosemary Haack, City of Lake Forest; Janice Klein, Mitchell Museum of the American INdian; PROOFREADER Ms. Chase Ruppert, McCormick Place Convention Center; Stephen Majsak, Chicago Architectural Foundation; Lois Maraya Raduha Berger, , Library Center; Jennifer Swanson, ; Adam CARTOGRAPHY Davies, ; Angela Sweeney, Water Tower Visutronx, Ajax, Ontario, Canada Place; Kelly Boggs and Michael Riley, Chicago Theatre; Sarah Hamilton Hadley, of American ARt; AT FORLING KINDERSLEY: Karen Irvine, Museum of Contemporary Photography; Managing Art Editor: Jane Ewart Hilton Hotel; Michilla Johnson, Buddy Guy’s Legend Jen- Managing Editor: Helen Townsend nifer Kocolowski, Goose Island Beer Co.; Jan Berghoff, Senior Publishing Manager: Louise Lang 17/West; Janet Femarek and David Caruso, Ed Debevic’s Production Controllers: Marie Ingledew, Michelle Thomas Restaurant. Cartographers: Casper Morris, Dave Pugh PHOTOGRAPHY PERMISSION MAIN CONTRIBUTERS Dorling Kindersley and International Book Productions Lorraine Johnson is a freelance writer living in Toronto would like to thank everyone for their assistance and kind who has a lifelong fascination with Chicago. She is the au- permission to photograph at their establishments. thor of six books and contributes articles and book reviews regularly to magazines and newspapers. PICTURE CREDITS a-above; b-below/bottom; c-centre; f-far; l-left; r-right; t-top. John Ryan lives in Chicago. A professional musician and former chef, he manages the Elgin Symphony Orchestra Works of art have been reproduced with the permission of in addition to writing regular food columns for America the following copyright holders: Online.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 57