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CHICAGO DK EYE WITNESS TRAVEL MAIN CONTRIBUTERS: LORRAINE JOHNSON AND JOHN RYAN TABLE OF CONTENTS DOWNTOWN CORE 9 BUILDINGS 15 ENTERTAINMENT 19 FOOD NORTH SIDE 29 BUILDINGS 41 FOOD SOUTH LOOP 51 BUILDINGS 58 ENTERTAINMENT 62 FOOD SOUTH SIDE 68 BUILDINGS 74 ENTERTAINMENT FARTHER AFIELD 82 BUILDINGS 87 ENTERTAINMENT 93 FOOD THE HISTORY The third largest city in the US is world famous for magnificent and innovative architecture, its colorful and turbulent politcal history and signifi- cance as a national transportation hub, the now-vanished stockyards, as well as its educa- tional institutes and vibrant cultrual venues. The French missionary Jacques Marquette and French-Canadian explorer Louis Jolliet were the first Europeans to record a visit to this spot at the foot of Lake Michigan, in 1673. The peace- ful, friendly local Potawatomi Indians called the low lying swampy area “Checaugou,” which likely means “wild onion” or “skunk cabbage.” 7 THE LOCALS REFER TO DOWNTOWN AS THE LOOP DOWNTOWN CORE 13 BUILDINGS 19 ENTERTAINMENT 23 FOOD DOWNTOWN CORE Bordered on the north and on the west by the Chicago River, on the east by Lake Michigan, and on the south by the Congress Parkway, the Downtown Core is Chicago’s historic and financial center. The downtown’s nucleus is the Loop, named for the elevated train tracks encircling it. Even though the area was com- pletely destroyed by the Great Fire of 1871, a mere two decades later it had been rebuilt with pioneering skyscrapers, including the Marquette Building. 11 BUILDINGS WILLIS TOWER MARQUETTE 233 S WACKER DR In 2009 Sears Tower was renamed Willis Tower. It 140 S DEARBORN ST Considered the premier remaining example of was the tallest building in the world from the time of its the Chicago School of architecture, the Marquette 9 AM–10 PM construction in 1973 until 1997 when the Petronas Twin 24 HOURS Building was designed by Holabird and Roche in 1895. DAILY Towers were built in Kuala Lumpur. In 2000 it regained DAILY Tip: Take Blue line to Monroe. its status as the worlds tallest structure when one of 312.875.9696 its antennas was extended. 312.422.5500 DOWNTOWN CORE THE ROOKERY MICHIGAN AVENUE BRIDGE 209 LASALLE ST When the Rookery opened in 1888, it was the tallest MICHIGAN AVE Linking the loop with the Magnificent Mile, this bridge, the building in the world. The 12-story building, designed first double-deck trunnion bascule bridge ever built, was 8 AM–6 PM by the influential firm Burnham and Root in the Richardso- 24 HOURS completed in 1920. Spanning the Chicago River, the two MON–FRI nian Romanesque style has a dark red brick facade with DAILY leaves, each weighing 3,340 tones, open by turning on terra-cotta trim and a rough granite base. enormous trunnion bearings on the banks. 312.553.6100 Tip: Take Brown line to Quincy or Jackson. Tip: Take Red line to Lake/State. DOWNTOWN CORE, BUILDINGS 13 AUDITORIUM BUILDING 430 S MICHIGAN AVE Designed by Dankmar Adler and Louis Sullivan, their first major commission together, the Auditorium Building, with 7.30 AM–10.30 PM its walls of smooth limestone typical of the Richardsonian MON–THURS Romanesque style rising above the rough granite base, 312.341.3500 broke many records and achieved a number of firsts. Tip: Take Brown line to Quincy or Jackson. AUDITORIUM,FINE ARTS, RELIANCE BUILDING FINE ARTS BUILDING SULLIVAN CENTER 410 S MICHIGAN AVE Although now closely associated with fine art and culture, 1 S STATE ST It is appropriate that such an architectural gem as the the Fine Arts Building was originally commissioned by Sullivan Center, which until 2007, housed one of Chicago’s 10 AM–8 PM 7 AM–10 PM Studebaker Brothers Manufacturing to house a wagon oldest department stores, rest at Chicago’s ground-zero MON–SAT MON–FRI carriage showroom. The name “Studebake” inscribed address of State and Madison, the starting point for the 312.675.5500 312.566.9800 outside in stone is still visible above the first floor. city’s street numbering system. Tip: Take Red line to Monroe or Washington. DOWNTOWN CORE MACY’S RELIANCE BUILDING 111 N STATE ST No other retail establishment is, perhaps as important to 32 N STATE ST. The Reliance Building’s two-stage construction was as Chicago’s cultural history as Marshall Field’s department unusual as were the structural support techniques used. 10 AM–8 PM store, which became part of the Macy’s chain in 2006. 24 HOURS The leases for the upper floors of the original building MON–FRI The store now occupies an entire city block. DAILY on the site did not expire until 1894, so when worked on the new Reliance Building began in 1890, the upper Tip: Take Red line to Washington 312.781.1000 312.781.1111 floors were supported on jack screws and the lower stories demolished. Tip: Take Red line to Monroe or Washington. DOWNTOWN CORE, BUILDINGS 15 R.R DONNELLEY BUILDING 77 W WACKER DR. The R.R. Donnelley Building, a modern 50-story office tower overlooking the Chicago River, is one of the more 24 HOURS recent skyscrapers to be built in the Downtown Core. DAILY Designed by Chicago architect James DeStefano, with famed Catalan architect Ricardo Bofill as the design 312.917.1177 consultant, the building combines classical aesthetic with Chicago school functionality. JAMES R. THOMPSON CENTER 100 W RANDOLPH ST The James R. Thompson Center is a refreshing change from the rectangular skyscrapers that make up Chicago’s 6:30 AM–6PM Downtown. Architect Helmut John designed the center MON–FRI as a symbol of open democratic government, one with no barriers between it and the people. 312.814.6684 DOWNTOWN CORE CLOUD GATE MILLENNIUM PARK The Cloud Gate sculpture was renowned British artist Anish Kapoor. This giant elliptical structure (nicknamed The 24 HOURS Bean) has a highly polished surface, which is designed to DAILY reflect the park and surroundings. It is Kapoor’s first public work installed in the US. CLOUD GATE, MILLENNIUM PARK DOWNTOWN CORE, BUILDINGS 17 ENTERTAINMENT ORIENTAL THEATER CIVIC OPERA HOUSE 24 W RANDOLPH ST The oriental Theater occupies the site of one of the worst 20 N WACKER DR Civic Opera House is one of Chicago’s historic landmarks theater fires in US history: just weeks after the opening in and among the world’s most beautiful buildings. Built in 11 AM 1903, fire broke out in Iroquois Theater, claiming almost HOURS VARY 1929 and fully restored in 1996, the Civic Opera House SAT 600 lives. The theater was rebuilt and operated until 1925, is a hybrid of Art Nouveau and Art Deco designs and a when it was demolished. 312.419.0033 majestic setting for entertaining on any scale. 312.782.2004 Tip: Take Red line to Washington. DOWNTOWN CORE CHICAGO CULTURAL CENTER MICHIGAN AVENUE BRIDGE 78 E WASHINGTON ST Built between 1893 and 1897 as the city’s main library, MICHIGAN AVE Linking the loop with the Magnificent Mile, this the building was dedicated in 1991 as the Chicago Cultural bridge, the first double-deck trunnion bascule bridge 8 AM–7 PM Center to showcase and celebrate the performing, visual 24 HOURS ever built, was completed in 1920. Spanning the MON–THURS and literary arts. DAILY Chicago River, the two leaves, each weighing 3,340 tones, open by turning on enormous trunnion bear- 312.744.6630 ings on the banks. Tip: Take Red line to Lake/State. DOWNTOWN CORE, ENTERTAINMENT 19 THE OLDEST SURVIVING THEATER IN CHICAGO CHICAGO THEATER 175 N STATE ST Slated for demolition in the 1980s but 312.462.6363 reprieved, this grand 3,800-seat theater has been restored to its former glory. The oldest surviving theater in Chicago, it was designed by Rapp and Rapp in 1921 and DOWNTOWN CORE originally was a vaudeville movie palace. The Chicago Theatre was the first large, lavish movie palace in America and was the prototype for all others. This beauti- ful movie palace was constructed for $4 million by theatre owners Barney and Abe Balaban and Sam and Morris Katz and designed by Cornelius and George Rapp. It was the flagship of the Balaban and Katz theatre chain. DOWNTOWN CORE, FOOD 21 FOOD $ CAFECITO $ HANNAH’S BRETZEL 26 E CONGRESS This busy lunch spot is a favorite with locals. Cuban 180 W WASHINGTON ST A popular lunch spot for Loop workers, this sleek, modern PARKWAY specialties such as freshly made grilled sandwiches, storefront specializes in pretzel-like German “pretzels” home-made soups, and rope vieja offer a culinary treat 312.621.111 made into sandwiches with toppings like prosciutto, 312.922.2233 amongst the fast-food chains in the South Loop. The gruyere cheese, vegetables, and more. The store also of- coffee and sweet treats are also excellent. There can fers over 20 different brands of gourmet chocolates from be a line at lunchtime, but it’s worth the wait. all over the world. DOWNTOWN CORE $ FRONTERA FRESCO $ $ $ HEAVEN ON SEVEN MACY’S Celebrity chef Rick Bayless offers value and intense GARLAND BUILDING Gregarious chef/owner Jimmy Bannos has been serving 111 N STATE ST flavors at this lunchtime eatery located inside the 17th 111 N WABASH AVE spicy Cajun and Creole fare for lunches and breakfasts floor food court of Macy’s. Poblano pepper and cheese (7TH FLOOR) here for more than 25 years. Loop breakfast regulars 312.781.4483 tacos, pork and avocado tortas, and fresh fruit drinks enjoy bananas Foster french toast and sausage omelets; are menu highlights. 312.263.6443 lunch highlights are jambalaya, Louisiana crab cakes, and po’boys.