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Contents

List of Maps vii

What’s New in 1

1 The Best of Utah 3 1 The Best Utah Travel Experiences . . . .3 8 The Best Downhill Skiing ...... 8 2 The Best Views ...... 3 9 The Best Places to Discover 3 The Best Family-Vacation American Indian Culture ...... 9 Experiences ...... 6 10 The Best Luxury Hotels ...... 9 4 The Best Hiking Trails ...... 6 11 The Best Bed & Breakfasts ...... 10 5 The Best Mountain Biking ...... 7 12 The Best Lodges ...... 10 6 The Best Destinations 13 The Best Restaurants ...... 11 for Fishing & Watersports ...... 7 14 The Best of the Performing Arts . . . .11 7 The Best Wildlife Watching ...... 8

2 Planning Your Trip to Utah 12 1 The Regions in Brief ...... 12 9 The 21st-Century Traveler ...... 30 Destination: Utah—Red Alert Online Traveler’s Toolbox ...... 32 Checklist ...... 16 10 Getting There ...... 32 2 Visitor Information ...... 16 Flying with Film & Video ...... 36 3 Money ...... 17 11 Packages for the Independent 4 When to Go ...... 18 Traveler ...... 36 Utah Calendar of Events ...... 19 12 Escorted General-Interest Tours . . . . .37 5 Travel Insurance ...... 21 13 Getting Around Utah ...... 38 6 Health & Safety ...... 22 14 Tips on Accommodations ...... 40 7 Specialized Travel Resources ...... 24 15 Recommended Books & Films ...... 43 8 Planning Your Trip Online ...... 27 Fast Facts: Utah ...... 43 COPYRIGHTEDFrommers.com: The Complete MATERIAL Travel Resource ...... 29

3 For International Visitors 46 1 Preparing for Your Trip ...... 46 3 Getting Around the U.S...... 54 Size Conversion Chart ...... 52 Fast Facts: For the International 2 Getting to the U.S...... 53 Traveler ...... 55 02_769843 ftoc.qxp 2/22/06 11:22 PM Page iv

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4 The Active Vacation Planner 60 1 Preparing for Your Active 4 Outdoor Activities A to Z ...... 63 Vacation ...... 60 Life on the Open Road: Planning 2 Adventure Travel ...... 61 an RV or Tenting Vacation ...... 66 3 Visiting Utah’s National Parks ...... 62

5 Suggested Utah Itineraries 69 1 Utah in 1 Week ...... 69 3 Utah for Families ...... 73 2 Utah in 2 Weeks ...... 71 4 Utah’s National Parks ...... 75

6 Salt Lake City 78 1 Orientation ...... 78 6 More Attractions ...... 93 Neighborhoods in Brief ...... 79 7 Organized Tours ...... 103 2 Getting Around ...... 80 8 Outdoor Pursuits & Spectator Fast Facts: Salt Lake City ...... 81 Sports ...... 103 3 Where to Stay ...... 82 9 Shopping ...... 104 4 Where to Dine ...... 86 10 Salt Lake City After Dark ...... 106 5 Exploring Temple Square ...... 91 11 The Great Salt Lake & State Park ...... 107

7 The Northern Wasatch Front: Utah’s Old West 110 1 Ogden: Utah’s West 2 Where East Met West: Golden at Its Wildest ...... 110 Spike National Historic Site ...... 126 Walking Tour: Historic Downtown 3 Skiing Ogden Valley & the Ogden—A Walk through the Northern Wasatch Front ...... 128 History of the American West . . . . .114 4 Logan ...... 131

8 The Southern Wasatch Front: World-Class Skiing & More 137 1 The Cottonwood Canyon 4 Sundance Resort ...... 163 Resorts: Brighton, Solitude, So You Wanna Be in Pictures: Alta & Snowbird ...... 137 The Sundance Institute ...... 164 2 Park City: Utah’s Premier 5 Provo & Environs ...... 167 Resort Town ...... 143 6 Timpanogos Cave National 3 Side Trips from Park City: Monument ...... 175 Heber Valley Historic Railroad, Strawberry Reservoir & Some Great State Parks ...... 158 02_769843 ftoc.qxp 2/22/06 11:22 PM Page v

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9 Dinosaurs & Natural Wonders in Utah’s Northeast Corner 178 1 Vernal: Gateway to the Region’s 3 Flaming Gorge National Top Recreational Areas ...... 178 Recreation Area ...... 187 2 Dinosaur National Monument . . . . .183

10 Utah’s Dixie & the Colorful Southwest Corner 193 1 Getting Outdoors in Utah’s Renaissance Delights on the Color Country ...... 193 Colorado Plateau: The Utah 2 St. George: Gateway to Southern Shakespearean Festival ...... 208 Utah’s Natural Wonders ...... 194 4 Kanab: Movies, Sand Dunes & 3 Cedar Breaks National Monument Gateway to the Grand Canyon . . . .213 & Brian Head Resort ...... 206

11 218 How Nature Painted Zion’s 4 Outdoor Pursuits ...... 225 Landscape ...... 219 5 Camping ...... 228 1 Just the Facts ...... 219 6 Where to Stay ...... 229 2 Seeing the Highlights ...... 224 7 Where to Dine ...... 231 3 Exploring Zion by Shuttle 8 Two Attractions in Nearby or Car ...... 224 Springdale ...... 232

12 Bryce Canyon National Park 233

1 Just the Facts ...... 233 8 More to See & Do Just 2 Seeing the Highlights ...... 237 Outside Bryce Canyon ...... 245 3 Exploring Bryce Canyon by Car . . . .237 9 Kodachrome Basin: A Picture- Perfect State Park ...... 246 4 Outdoor Pursuits ...... 238 10 Grand Staircase–Escalante 5 Camping ...... 241 National Monument & the 6 Where to Stay ...... 242 Highway 12 Scenic Drive ...... 247 7 Where to Dine ...... 244 Rock or Wood—What Is This Stuff? ...... 252

13 Capitol Reef National Park 257 1 Just the Facts ...... 258 4 Outdoor Pursuits ...... 262 2 Seeing the Highlights by Car ...... 260 5 Camping ...... 264 Butch Cassidy: Utah’s Most 6 Where to Stay ...... 266 Infamous Son ...... 261 7 Where to Dine ...... 267 3 From Petroglyphs to a Pioneer Schoolhouse: Capitol Reef’s Historic Sites ...... 262 02_769843 ftoc.qxp 2/22/06 11:22 PM Page vi

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14 Lake Powell & Glen Canyon National Recreation Area 269 1 Just the Facts ...... 269 4 Outdoor Pursuits ...... 275 2 Exploring Lake Powell by Boat . . . .272 5 Camping ...... 276 3 Seeing the Sights ...... 274 6 Where to Stay & Dine ...... 277

15 From Moab to Arches & Canyonlands National Parks 278 1 Moab: Gateway to the 3 Canyonlands National Park ...... 298 National Parks ...... 278 4 North & West of the Parks ...... 306 2 ...... 292

16 The Four Corners Area 310 1 A Base Camp in Bluff ...... 310 4 Hovenweep National 2 Monument Valley Navajo Monument ...... 318 Tribal Park ...... 313 5 Four Corners Monument ...... 320 3 Natural Bridges National 6 East to Colorado and Monument ...... 316 Mesa Verde ...... 320

Appendix: Utah in Depth 323

1 Utah Today ...... 323 3 A Brief Look at Modern 2 History 101 ...... 323 Mormonism—or Yes, You Can Get a Cup of Coffee in Utah ...... 326

Index 328 02_769843 ftoc.qxp 2/22/06 11:22 PM Page vii

List of Maps

Utah 4 Where to Stay & Dine in Downtown Regions of Utah 14 Provo 168 Utah Driving Distances & Times 39 The Northeast Corner 179 Utah in 1 Week 70 The Southwest Corner 195 Utah in 2 Weeks 72 St. George & Environs 197 Utah for Families 74 Zion National Park 220 Utah’s National Parks 77 Bryce Canyon National Park 235 Salt Lake City Neighborhoods 80 Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument 249 Where to Stay & Dine in Salt Lake City 85 Capitol Reef National Park 259 Downtown Salt Lake City Glen Canyon National Attractions 96 Recreation Area 270 Greater Salt Lake Valley Attractions 98 Southeast Utah 279 Where to Stay & Dine in Downtown Arches National Park 293 Ogden 111 Canyonlands National Park 299 The Park City Area 145