discover ITALY

CRISTIAN BONETTO DAMIEN SIMONIS, ALISON BING, GREGOR CLARK, DUNCAN GARWOOD, ABIGAIL HOLE, ALEX LEVITON, VIRGINIA MAXWELL, JOSEPHINE QUINTERO, BRENDAN SAINSBURY

00-title-page-dc-ita1.indd 1 10/12/2009 2:58:03 PM 4 CONTENTS

Sleeping 90 CONTENTS Eating 93  THIS IS ITALY 10 Drinking 97 Entertainment 98  ITALY’S TOP 25 EXPERIENCES 12 Shopping 99  ITALY’S TOP ITINERARIES 31 Getting There & Away 100 Getting Around 100  PLANNING YOUR TRIP 39  MILAN & THE NORTHWEST 103  ROME 50 MILAN & THE NORTHWEST ROME HIGHLIGHTS 54 HIGHLIGHTS 106 ROME’S BEST… 60 MILAN & THE NORTHWEST’S BEST… 112 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW 61 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW 113 DISCOVER ROME 62 MILAN & THE NORTHWEST History 63 ITINERARIES 114 Orientation 64 DISCOVER MILAN & THE NORTHWEST 116 Information 65 MILAN 116 Sights 66 History 116 Tours 89 Orientation 117 Festivals & Events 89 Information 117

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Sights 117 Tours 179 Tours 122 Festivals & Events 179 Festivals & Events 122 Sleeping 179 Sleeping 122 Eating 182 Eating 123 Drinking 184 Drinking 123 Entertainment 184 Entertainment 124 Getting There & Away 184 Shopping 125 Getting Around 185 Getting There & Away 125 AROUND THE VENETO 186 Getting Around 125 Brenta Riviera 186 AROUND MILAN 126 Vicenza 187 Certosa di Pavia 126 Verona 191 Bergamo 126 EMILIA-ROMAGNA 194 THE LAKES 128 Bologna 194 Lago Maggiore 128 Modena 200 Lago di Como 130 Maranello 201 LIGURIA 135 Parma 202 Genoa 135 Ravenna 204 Riviera di Levante 136 PIEDMONT 141  FLORENCE & CENTRAL ITALY 207 Turin 141 Alba 148 FLORENCE & CENTRAL ITALY HIGHLIGHTS 210 Around Alba 150 FLORENCE & CENTRAL ITALY’S Asti 151 BEST… 216 Around Asti 152 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW 217 PARCO NAZIONALE DEL GRAN FLORENCE & CENTRAL ITALY PARADISO 153 ITINERARIES 218  VENICE & THE NORTHEAST 155 DISCOVER FLORENCE & CENTRAL ITALY 220 VENICE & THE NORTHEAST FLORENCE 220 HIGHLIGHTS 158 VENICE & THE NORTHEAST’S BEST… 164 History 220 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW 165 Orientation 221 VENICE & THE NORTHEAST Information 221 ITINERARIES 166 Sights 221 DISCOVER VENICE & THE NORTHEAST 168 Tours 230 VENICE 168 Festivals & Events 230 History 168 Sleeping 230 Orientation 169 Eating 231 Information 169 Drinking 232 Sights 172 Entertainment 232 Activities 178 Shopping 232

01-prelims-dc-ita1.indd 5 11/12/2009 5:46:45 PM ITALY’S TOP 25 EXPERIENCES

03-top-25-experiences-dc-ita1.in13 13 14/12/2009 1:48:51 PM 1 14/12/2009 1:48:54 PM14/12/2009 1:48:54 PM (p221). Instantly Italy Duomo er forget that look on her face. er forget THE DUOMO LONELYPLANET.COM/ITALY I grabbed her by the hand and demanded, ‘Follow me! Don’t argue!’ A quick her by the hand and demanded, ‘Follow me! Don’t argue!’ I grabbed her to shut her eyes, I pushed and telling trail through the narrow streets her into the piazza and said, ‘Look!’. Florence’s  was in her blood. I’ll nev Doug (Thorn name mckellan), Tree Traveller, Australia 14

ITALY’S TOP 25 EXPERIENCES 03-top-25-experiences-dc-ita1.in14 1403-top-25-experiences-dc-ita1.in14 14 ITALY’S TOP 25 EXPERIENCES 15 3 14/12/2009 1:48:56 PM14/12/2009 1:48:56 PM 1 JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET; SIMONIS; 3 MARKA/ALAMY 2 DAMIEN 2 (p240) Chianti (p240) HORSE PARTY WINING WINING THROUGH CHIANTI hroughout the city young and old send the streets vibrating with the vibrating with the the streets hroughout the city young and old send egion is much more than than is much more egion 1 Duomo (p221), Florence; 2 Vineyard, Chianti (p240); 3 Il Palio (p243), Siena 1 Duomo (p221), Florence; 2 Vineyard, Chianti (p240); 3 Il Palio  race and for the Sienese it is life. (p243) is Siena’s annual horse Palio Il T Tuscany’s Tuscany’s r  rhythm of drums and spinning with twirling flags in practise for the July race. flags in practiserhythm of drums and spinning with twirling for the July race. but in Siena they practise Il Palioism. Italy may be known for Catholicism, Hannah Rothstein, Traveller, USA great wine. The landscape landscape The wine. great looks like a perfectly composition: thought-out cypresses, rows of svelte and houses quaint farm We spent rolling vineyards. four days driving around, on fabulous local feasting food, practising Italian our and stocking up on Chianti Classico (of course). Traveller, Australia Nathan Brewer, LONELYPLANET.COM/ITALY LONELYPLANET.COM/ITALY 03-top-25-experiences-dc-ita1.in15 1503-top-25-experiences-dc-ita1.in15 15

14/12/2009 12:09:27 PM14/12/2009 12:09:27 PM C.1805-08 (MARBLE) BY CANOVA, CANOVA, BY C.1805-08 (MARBLE) LONELYPLANET.COM/ ITALY ITALY LONELYPLANET.COM/ The Lady with an Ermine with Lady The RITRATTO DI GIOVANE DI GIOVANE RITRATTO DONNA CON UNICORNO Raphael’s portrait Young Woman The with a Unicorn (c 1506) was inspired by da Vinci’s  ible in that its twisting composition composition ible in that its twisting allows the simultaneous depiction of Pluto’s abduction of Proserpina, their arrival in the underworld and her pray- To experience the nar- ing for release. to the startrative, the left, move from front, and then view it from the right. Venere Vincitrice Vincitrice Venere Venere Venere BY ALESSIO ZITO, TOUR GUIDE TOUR GUIDE ALESSIO ZITO, BY so e Galleria Borghese Museo What makes the important so many are there special is the fact result The compact space. artworks in a relatively and a journey that takes is less museum fatigue period to golden-age masters you from the Roman and Bernini, Borromini, Titian like Caravaggio, to name a few! Canova…just (Venus is sublime. Victorious) MUSEO E GALLERIA BORGHESE E GALLERIA MUSEO ALESSIO ZITO’S DON’T MISS LIST ALESSIO VENERE VINCITRICE RATTO DI PROSERPINA RATTO 1 Clockwise from top: Museo e Galleria Borghese entrance; statue in the museum gardens; Chiesa di Santa Maria del Popolo; Orangery adjacent to the museum; Canova’s   Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s sculpture The Bernini’s sculpture Gian Lorenzo Rape of Proserpina (1621–2) is incred-  Antonio Canova’s depiction of Napole-Antonio Canova’s as Borghese, Paolina on’s sister, Vincitrice Vincitrice You could spend hours marvelling at managed to make the how Canova way The ‘sink’ into the cushions. figure the drapery flows so effortlessly over her body is equally impressive. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: MARTIN MOOS; MARTIN MOOS; DAVID TOMLINSON; MARTIN MOOS; PAULINE BONAPARTE (1780-1825) AS VENUS TRIUMPHANT, (1780-1825) AS VENUS TRIUMPHANT, BONAPARTE MOOS; PAULINE TOMLINSON; MARTIN MOOS; DAVID MOOS; MARTIN MARTIN CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: / OUT OF COPYRIGHT ITALIAN STATUS: / COPYRIGHT NATIONALITY ART LIBRARY THE BRIDGEMAN / GIRAUDON/ LAUROS ANTONIO (1757-1822) GALLERIA BORGHESE, ROME, ITALY/ ROME ROME HIGHLIGHTS 54

ROME ROME HIGHLIGHTS 06-rome-dc-ita1.indd 5406-rome-dc-ita1.indd 54 ROME ROME HIGHLIGHTS 55

14/12/2009 12:09:29 PM14/12/2009 12:09:29 PM Apollo e Daphne ing for its portrayal heady of the god of as a pale, tired-looking youth. pleasures the self-portrait Scholars believe was was suf- when Caravaggio executed Scipione Cardinal from malaria. fering who formed the Borghese Borghese, art in collection, was a strong believer the young artist’s talent, buying pic- by those who had com- rejected tures missioned them. Sick (Sala IV), (Sala VIII) and the Caravaggios See our author’s review on p79 our author’s review See Chiesa di (Sala I), Bernini’s Vincitrice Venere (p79). anova’s anova’s Ratto di Prosperina aria del Popolo aria (1592–5) is particularly intrigu- THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW BACCHINO MALATO BACCHINO SATIRE SU DELFINO SATIRE On the ground floor, check out the gladiatorial mosaics. mosaics. Only two hours? On the ground floor, check out the gladiatorial Upstairs, focus on C  Raphael’s paintings (Sala IX) (Sala III) and Bacchus  paintings, Of the many Caravaggio  Room’, you’ll In Sala VII, the ‘Egyptian find the Satyr on a Dolphin, dating from the 2nd century and probably intended piece is believed for a fountain. The Raphael’s for design inspired to have of Jonah the figure and the Whale in Chapel inside the the Chigi Santa M (1490). The painting originally depicted painting originally (1490). The dog, a symbol of a woman holding a fidelity. But when the marriage did not Raphaeltake re- place, scholars believe, placed the dog with a unicorn, a symbol of chastity or virginity. LONELYPLANET.COM/ ITALY ITALY LONELYPLANET.COM/ 06-rome-dc-ita1.indd 5506-rome-dc-ita1.indd 55 INDEX

A Pompeii 266-7, 288-90, 267, Galleria Nazionale abbeys 266, 267, 290 d’Arte Moderna e Abbazia della Cervara 137 Rome 66-7, 67-70, 70-1, 73-6, Contemporanea 79 Abbazia di San Fruttuoso di 77, 82, 89, 90 Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria Capodimonte 136 Scavi Archeologici di Ostia 251 accommodation 42, 380-3 Antica 83, 83 Galleria Sabauda 145 agriturismi 380-1 Segesta 330, 330 Gallerie dell’Accademia 162, B&Bs 380-1 Selinunte 330 174, 162, 164 convents 381-2 Spoleto 258-9 MADRE 275 hotels 382 Syracuse 326 MAMbo 197 monasteries 381-2 Taormina 320, 29, 304 Museo d’Arte Moderna di mountain huts 382 Valley of the Temples 29, 302, Bologna 197 pensioni 382 329, 302, 329, 353 Museo della Fondazione villa rentals 382-3 architecture 344-50 Querini Stampalia 178 activities 376-8 20th century 349-50 Museo e Galleria Borghese Aeolian Islands 302, 316-19 baroque 348 54-5, 79, 54, 55 itineraries 35 Byzantine 345 Museo Nazionale d’Arte Agrigento 328-30 classical 344-5 Medievale e Moderna della agriturismi 380-1 Gothic 346 Basilicata 339 air travel neoclassical 348-9 Padiglione d’Arte to/from Italy 396-7 new millennium 350 Contemporanea 117 within Italy 400 Renaissance 346-7 Palazzo Grassi 174, 173 Alba 110, 148-50, 110 Romanesque 345 Peggy Guggenheim Collection albergo, see hotels Arco di Costantino 67 174-5 Alberobello 334-5 Arena di Verona 162, 191 Pinacoteca Ambrosiana 120 Alighieri, Dante 205 Argegno 135 Pinacoteca di Brera 121 Amalfi 293-6 Armani, Giorgio 125 Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Amalfi Coast 16, 269, 291-6, 16 art galleries 40, see also Agnelli 145 Anacapri 285 museums Pinacoteca Nazionale 197 Antony, Mark 355 Accademia Carrara 127 Punta della Dogana 175 aperitivi 123, 368 Ca’ Pesaro 178, 178 Studio Museo Achille Cas- Ara Pacis 78 Civica Galleria d’Arte Moderna tiglioni 117 archaeological sites 41 310 Uffizi 214, 226, 214, 226 Herculaneum 289, 289 Galleria d’Arte Moderna 193 arts 344-50 Lecce 336-7 Galleria dell’Accademia 228 20th century 349-50 Metaponto 330 Galleria Doria Pamphilj 73, baroque 348 Naples 275-8 73 Byzantine 345 Paestum 269, 296, 269, 344 Galleria Nazionale (Parma) classical 344-5 203 festivals 47, 47-8, 49, 90, 000 Map pages Galleria Nazionale d’Arte 295, 320 000 Photograph pages Antica 78 Gothic 346

16-index-dc-ita1.indd 413 11/12/2009 3:57:55 PM , 47, 211 106, , 194 345 121 ennaro 20, 210 , 314, 11/12/2009 3:57:55 PM11/12/2009 3:57:55 PM 201 261 207 , errazzano 241 14 , egio 176 311-13 107 347 280-1 90 211 vieto 261, ilan 106-7, 117-20, Catacombe dei Cappuccini Catacombe di San G Modena 201, 314, Monreale Naples 275 Or Lecce 336 Lecce M driving licences 402-3 402 hire road rules 402-3 to/from Italy 398-9 401-3 within Italy 385, da 348 185 Catacombs of San Callisto 89 Catacombs of San Sebastiano Catania 321 14, 210-11, 221-4, Florence Parma 202 Parma Casa di Giulietta 191-2, Castel del Monte 332 Castel Nuovo 279 Castel Sant’Angelo 87 Castellina 242 Castello 176-7 Castello di V 150 Castello Falletti Castello Sforzesco 121, Castello Svevo 333 catacombs car travel 348 Caracci, Annibale Caravaggio, Michelangelo Merisi Carnevale 20, 46, 179, Carnevale Ambrosiano 122 Cannar Catania 321-3 cathedrals 196 96 313 77 95, 169 177 erry travel 42, useums 59, 72, see f ies 34 ies 37 346 150 375 59 190, itinerar see Michelangelo to/from Italy 397 tours 89 within Italy 401, 403-4 itinerar Venice 178-9, Venice Vieste 331 Vulcano 319 enta Riviera186-7 163, Caligula 356 Camogli 136 Camorra 363 Campidoglio 71-2 76, Campo de’ Fiori Canova, Antonio 348-9 Capitoline M Cappella degli Scrovegni 189, 311, Cappella Palatina Capri 284-8 Capri Town 285 Ca’ d’Oro 176 Caesar, Gaius 355 Julius calcio Brunelleschi, Filippo 346 Brunelleschi, Filippo Buonarotti, Michelangelo, Burano 179, Burri, Alberto 349 bus travel C Bondone, Giotto di 346 books 45 border crossings 397 Borgo 87 Borromean Islands 129 Borromini, Francesco 76 Botticelli, Sandro 347 Bra 150, Bramante, Donato 347 Br Bocca della Verità 77, 77, Bocca della Verità 194-9, Bologna 20, 163, boat travel, 213 23, 269 333 109 enzo 76, 348 332, 59 see churches i 316 LONELYPLANET.COM/ITALY Map pages pages Photograph continued e 43 59, 99, Brenta RivieraBrenta 186-7 Grotta Azura 286, Liguria 135 Lipar itineraries 33 Lipari 316 Maratea 340 Monterosso 138 Positano 291 Praiano 292 320 Taormina Vieste 331, neoclassical 348-9 350 new millennium Renaissance 346-7 Romanesque 345 Maratea 341 Rome 89 Vulcano 318 000 000 Auditorium Parco della Musica Auditorium Parco Augustus 355-6 bicycle travel, see cycling boat races 48, 49, 239 boat tours 186-7 Asti 151-2 attir B B&Bs 380-1 151 Barbaresco Bari 332-4 Barolo 150-1 basilicas, Basilicata 338-41 beaches Assisi 23, 212-13, 253-6, Assisi 23, 212-13, arts 414 Bergamo 111, 126-8, 111 Berlusconi, Silvio 117, 363 Bernini, Gian Lor Bellagio 109, 134,

INDEX A-C 16-index-dc-ita1.indd 41416-index-dc-ita1.indd 414