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Discover ITALY discover ITALY CRISTIAN BONETTO DAMIEN SIMONIS, ALISON BING, GREGOR CLARK, DUNCAN GARWOOD, ABIGAIL HOLE, ALEX LEVITON, VIRGINIA MAXWELL, JOSEPHINE QUINTERO, BRENDAN SAINSBURY 00-title-page-dc-ita1.indd 1 10/12/2009 2:58:03 PM 4 CONTENTS Sleeping 90 CONTENTS Eating 93 THIS IS ITALY 10 Drinking 97 Entertainment 98 ITALY’S TOP 25 EXPERIENCES 12 Shopping 99 ITALY’S TOP ITINERARIES 31 Getting There & Away 100 Getting Around 100 PLANNING YOUR TRIP 39 MILAN & THE NORTHWEST 103 ROME 50 MILAN & THE NORTHWEST ROME HIGHLIGHTS 54 HIGHLIGHTS 106 ROME’S BEST… 60 MILAN & THE NORTHWEST’S BEST… 112 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW 61 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW 113 DISCOVER ROME 62 MILAN & THE NORTHWEST History 63 ITINERARIES 114 Orientation 64 DISCOVER MILAN & THE NORTHWEST 116 Information 65 MILAN 116 Sights 66 History 116 Tours 89 Orientation 117 Festivals & Events 89 Information 117 01-prelims-dc-ita1.indd 4 11/12/2009 5:46:44 PM 5 Sights 117 Tours 179 Tours 122 Festivals & Events 179 Festivals & Events 122 Sleeping 179 Sleeping 122 Eating 182 Eating 123 Drinking 184 Drinking 123 Entertainment 184 Entertainment 124 Getting There & Away 184 Shopping 125 Getting Around 185 Getting There & Away 125 AROUND THE VENETO 186 Getting Around 125 Brenta Riviera 186 AROUND MILAN 126 Vicenza 187 Certosa di Pavia 126 Verona 191 Bergamo 126 EMILIA-ROMAGNA 194 THE LAKES 128 Bologna 194 Lago Maggiore 128 Modena 200 Lago di Como 130 Maranello 201 LIGURIA 135 Parma 202 Genoa 135 Ravenna 204 Riviera di Levante 136 PIEDMONT 141 FLORENCE & CENTRAL ITALY 207 Turin 141 Alba 148 FLORENCE & CENTRAL ITALY HIGHLIGHTS 210 Around Alba 150 FLORENCE & CENTRAL ITALY’S Asti 151 BEST… 216 Around Asti 152 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW 217 PARCO NAZIONALE DEL GRAN FLORENCE & CENTRAL ITALY PARADISO 153 ITINERARIES 218 VENICE & THE NORTHEAST 155 DISCOVER FLORENCE & CENTRAL ITALY 220 VENICE & THE NORTHEAST FLORENCE 220 HIGHLIGHTS 158 VENICE & THE NORTHEAST’S BEST… 164 History 220 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW 165 Orientation 221 VENICE & THE NORTHEAST Information 221 ITINERARIES 166 Sights 221 DISCOVER VENICE & THE NORTHEAST 168 Tours 230 VENICE 168 Festivals & Events 230 History 168 Sleeping 230 Orientation 169 Eating 231 Information 169 Drinking 232 Sights 172 Entertainment 232 Activities 178 Shopping 232 01-prelims-dc-ita1.indd 5 11/12/2009 5:46:45 PM ITALY’S TOP 25 EXPERIENCES 03-top-25-experiences-dc-ita1.in13 13 14/12/2009 1:48:51 PM 14 LONELYPLANET.COM/ITALY ITALY’S TOP 25 EXPERIENCES ITALY’S 1 THE DUOMO I grabbed her by the hand and demanded, ‘Follow me! Don’t argue!’ A quick trail through the narrow streets and telling her to shut her eyes, I pushed her into the piazza and said, ‘Look!’. Florence’s Duomo (p221). Instantly Italy was in her blood. I’ll never forget that look on her face. Doug (Thorn Tree name mckellan), Traveller, Australia 03-top-25-experiences-dc-ita1.in14 14 14/12/2009 1:48:54 PM LONELYPLANET.COM/ITALY 15 ITALY’S TOP 25 EXPERIENCES ITALY’S WINING THROUGH CHIANTI 2 Tuscany’s Chianti (p240) region is much more than great wine. The landscape looks like a perfectly thought-out composition: rows of svelte cypresses, quaint farmhouses and rolling vineyards. We spent four days driving around, feasting on fabulous local food, practising our Italian and stocking up on Chianti Classico (of course). Nathan Brewer, Traveller, Australia 3 HORSE PARTY Il Palio (p243) is Siena’s annual horse race and for the Sienese it is life. Throughout the city young and old send the streets vibrating with the rhythm of drums and spinning with twirling flags in practise for the July race. Italy may be known for Catholicism, but in Siena they practise Il Palioism. Hannah Rothstein, Traveller, USA 1 JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET; 2 DAMIEN SIMONIS; 3 MARKA/ALAMY 1 Duomo (p221), Florence; 2 Vineyard, Chianti (p240); 3 Il Palio (p243), Siena 03-top-25-experiences-dc-ita1.in15 15 14/12/2009 1:48:56 PM 54 LONELYPLANET.COM/ ITALY ROME HIGHLIGHTS 1 MUSEO E GALLERIA BORGHESE ROME BY ALESSIO ZITO, TOUR GUIDE What makes the Museo e Galleria Borghese so special is the fact there are so many important artworks in a relatively compact space. The result is less museum fatigue and a journey that takes you from the Roman period to golden-age masters like Caravaggio, Bernini, Borromini, Titian and Canova…just to name a few! ROME HIGHLIGHTS ALESSIO ZITO’S DON’T MISS LIST VENERE VINCITRICE ible in that its twisting composition Antonio Canova’s depiction of Napole- allows the simultaneous depiction of on’s sister, Paolina Borghese, as Venere Pluto’s abduction of Proserpina, their Vincitrice (Venus Victorious) is sublime. arrival in the underworld and her pray- You could spend hours marvelling at ing for release. To experience the nar- how Canova managed to make the rative, start from the left, move to the figure ‘sink’ into the cushions. The way front, and then view it from the right. the drapery flows so effortlessly over her body is equally impressive. RITRATTO DI GIOVANE DONNA CON UNICORNO RATTO DI PROSERPINA Raphael’s portrait The Young Woman Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s sculpture The with a Unicorn (c 1506) was inspired Rape of Proserpina (1621–2) is incred- by da Vinci’s The Lady with an Ermine Clockwise from top: Museo e Galleria Borghese entrance; statue in the museum gardens; Chiesa di Santa Maria del Popolo; Orangery adjacent to the museum; Canova’s Venere Vincitrice CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: MARTIN MOOS; MARTIN MOOS; DAVID TOMLINSON; MARTIN MOOS; PAULINE BONAPARTE (1780-1825) AS VENUS TRIUMPHANT, C.1805-08 (MARBLE) BY CANOVA, ANTONIO (1757-1822) GALLERIA BORGHESE, ROME, ITALY/ LAUROS / GIRAUDON/ THE BRIDGEMAN ART LIBRARY NATIONALITY / COPYRIGHT STATUS: ITALIAN / OUT OF COPYRIGHT 06-rome-dc-ita1.indd 54 14/12/2009 12:09:27 PM LONELYPLANET.COM/ ITALY 55 ROME ROME HIGHLIGHTS (1490). The painting originally depicted ing for its portrayal of the god of heady a woman holding a dog, a symbol of pleasures as a pale, tired-looking youth. fidelity. But when the marriage did not Scholars believe the self-portrait was take place, scholars believe, Raphael re- executed when Caravaggio was suf- placed the dog with a unicorn, a symbol fering from malaria. Cardinal Scipione of chastity or virginity. Borghese, who formed the Borghese art collection, was a strong believer in SATIRE SU DELFINO the young artist’s talent, buying pic- In Sala VII, the ‘Egyptian Room’, you’ll tures rejected by those who had com- find the Satyr on a Dolphin, dating from missioned them. the 2nd century and probably intended for a fountain. The piece is believed to have inspired Raphael’s design for the figure of Jonah and the Whale in the Chigi Chapel inside the Chiesa di Santa Maria del Popolo (p79). BACCHINO MALATO Of the many Caravaggio paintings, Sick Bacchus (1592–5) is particularly intrigu- THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW Only two hours? On the ground floor, check out the gladiatorial mosaics. Upstairs, focus on Canova’s Venere Vincitrice (Sala I), Bernini’s Apollo e Daphne (Sala III) and Ratto di Prosperina (Sala IV), the Caravaggios (Sala VIII) and Raphael’s paintings (Sala IX) See our author’s review on p79 06-rome-dc-ita1.indd 55 14/12/2009 12:09:29 PM INDEX A Pompeii 266-7, 288-90, 267, Galleria Nazionale abbeys 266, 267, 290 d’Arte Moderna e Abbazia della Cervara 137 Rome 66-7, 67-70, 70-1, 73-6, Contemporanea 79 Abbazia di San Fruttuoso di 77, 82, 89, 90 Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria Capodimonte 136 Scavi Archeologici di Ostia 251 accommodation 42, 380-3 Antica 83, 83 Galleria Sabauda 145 agriturismi 380-1 Segesta 330, 330 Gallerie dell’Accademia 162, B&Bs 380-1 Selinunte 330 174, 162, 164 convents 381-2 Spoleto 258-9 MADRE 275 hotels 382 Syracuse 326 MAMbo 197 monasteries 381-2 Taormina 320, 29, 304 Museo d’Arte Moderna di mountain huts 382 Valley of the Temples 29, 302, Bologna 197 pensioni 382 329, 302, 329, 353 Museo della Fondazione villa rentals 382-3 architecture 344-50 Querini Stampalia 178 activities 376-8 20th century 349-50 Museo e Galleria Borghese Aeolian Islands 302, 316-19 baroque 348 54-5, 79, 54, 55 itineraries 35 Byzantine 345 Museo Nazionale d’Arte Agrigento 328-30 classical 344-5 Medievale e Moderna della agriturismi 380-1 Gothic 346 Basilicata 339 air travel neoclassical 348-9 Padiglione d’Arte to/from Italy 396-7 new millennium 350 Contemporanea 117 within Italy 400 Renaissance 346-7 Palazzo Grassi 174, 173 Alba 110, 148-50, 110 Romanesque 345 Peggy Guggenheim Collection albergo, see hotels Arco di Costantino 67 174-5 Alberobello 334-5 Arena di Verona 162, 191 Pinacoteca Ambrosiana 120 Alighieri, Dante 205 Argegno 135 Pinacoteca di Brera 121 Amalfi 293-6 Armani, Giorgio 125 Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Amalfi Coast 16, 269, 291-6, 16 art galleries 40, see also Agnelli 145 Anacapri 285 museums Pinacoteca Nazionale 197 Antony, Mark 355 Accademia Carrara 127 Punta della Dogana 175 aperitivi 123, 368 Ca’ Pesaro 178, 178 Studio Museo Achille Cas- Ara Pacis 78 Civica Galleria d’Arte Moderna tiglioni 117 archaeological sites 41 310 Uffizi 214, 226, 214, 226 Herculaneum 289, 289 Galleria d’Arte Moderna 193 arts 344-50 Lecce 336-7 Galleria dell’Accademia 228 20th century 349-50 Metaponto 330 Galleria Doria Pamphilj 73, baroque 348 Naples 275-8 73 Byzantine 345 Paestum 269, 296, 269, 344 Galleria Nazionale (Parma) classical 344-5 203 festivals 47, 47-8, 49, 90, 000 Map pages Galleria Nazionale d’Arte 295, 320 000 Photograph pages Antica 78 Gothic 346 16-index-dc-ita1.indd 413 11/12/2009 3:57:55 PM 414 LONELYPLANET.COM/ITALY arts continued Venice 178-9, 169 car travel neoclassical 348-9 Vieste 331 driving licences 402-3 new millennium
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