MANAGING AND 5 CARING FOR TREES

Thousands of young trees die through lack of aftercare. However, everyone can play a part in helping to change this.

They can give a few minutes of essential annual care to any trees they have recently planted – and this section explains what this involves. They can also keep an eye on young trees in their communities and, if they seem to be needing care, encourage whoever owns or manages them to do something about it.

This section also looks at the various management techniques used to care for trees of all ages — including mature and ancient trees. However, most of these should only be carried out by experts. 2 MANAGING AND CARING FOR TREES MANAGING AND CARING FOR TREES 3

Caring for newly-planted trees If watering standard and semi-mature trees, Mulching Loose organic mulches give them a very thorough soak – about 50 to Mulching is a simple and effective way of Spread a layer of organic material – 50 to Annual care for trees in their first five years 75 litres per tree (10 to 15 gallons), controlling weeds and it also: Q 100mm (2 to 4in) deep – around the stem in is vital. Large numbers of young trees die depending on the size, every other week in keeps the ground moist and cool a circle of about 1m (3ft) diameter. from neglect, especially from the failure to dry weather during the growing season. Q means there is no need to use lawn mowers carry out basic weed control. or strimmers near the tree, risking damage For woodlands, spread the mulch over the Watering ‘little and often’will only to the bark which might kill the tree entire planting area. For information about caring for new trees encourage surface rooting, increasing the Q avoids using chemicals. before planting, see section 4, Tree planting tree’s vulnerability to drought and scorching Keep mulch away from the stem to avoid rot. – planning and practice. by the sun. Organic mulches also gradually improve the soil as they decompose, particularly if it is It is important to check on newly-planted Fertilising compacted or eroded. trees and woodlands at least once a year and This should not usually be necessary, even carry out a few simple maintenance tasks for trees planted on poor soil, provided Mulches are especially useful for trees of including: plenty of compost or manure was put in the standard size and over, and planting Q watering (if necessary) planting pit. This organic matter will include community woodlands. They should be Q fertilising (if necessary) enough slow release nutrients to sustain the applied immediately after planting, but not Q clearing grass and weeds tree for its first few years. until any weeds have been pulled up and the Q adjusting/replacing/removing tree stakes tree has been watered. One application of and ties Weed control mulch is usually adequate, but trees benefit Q checking guards and shelters Grasses and other fast-growing, herbaceous from mulching in later years if there is little Q ensuring roots remain covered perennials compete with young trees for natural plant litter. It is best applied early in Q pruning carefully (if required). moisture, nutrients, space and light. To help the year when the ground is moist – but after the tree get established, it is important to all weeds have been cleared. Watering keep an area of about a square metre (just Except in long dry spells, it is rarely over a square yard) around it free of weeds Q Do not apply mulches during frost or necessary to water transplants or whips for at least three years. drought. (again, see section 4), provided they were Q Do not spread mulch too thickly as it may planted at the right time of year, with the Hand weeding inhibit gas exchange. roots kept moist, and attention is paid to Hand weeding can be time-consuming, but weeding and mulching (see page 3). may be a good way of involving local Loose organic mulches include: communities in caring for trees they have Q leaf litter This is important both at the time recently planted. Surface tree roots should Q spoiled hay (available from farms) Mulch mats are available from garden of planting and in the first few years after not be disturbed. Q well-rotted manure centres and other suppliers of forestry that. Q well-rotted lawn clippings – or grass products. They are easy to fit, much less Pull out grasses, woody plants and clippings from the previous cut bulky than loose mulch, relatively Watering may be necessary for larger stock, herbaceous perennials so that they are Q composted bark inexpensive (depending on the type and although once the trees become well uprooted. They should not be cut back or Q wood chips – although not fresh ones number ordered), and disintegrate after established, most will need watering only mown, as this encourages growth. Hoeing because there is a danger of nitrogen loss about five years. Roofing felt or old carpet during droughts. runs the risk of damaging the roots. from the soil as they degrade. are cheap alternatives for small plantings. 4 MANAGING AND CARING FOR TREES MANAGING AND CARING FOR TREES 5

Mulching with mats Chemical weed control Stakes and ties or, if the tree is top Outer edges should be pushed into the soil Chemical weed control is often used on Check the stake and the tie. Is the tie too tight? heavy and bends large-scale plantings of small stock – whips The tree stem should not be under pressure over and transplants – where hand-weeding and from the tie, and should not rub against the mulching are not cost effective. However, stake or guard. the use of pesticides is now well 1 regulated. If the tie is left on the tree too long, the trunk will eventually grow around it, causing scarring and The Pesticides Control Act 1988 regulates damage that may lead to disease and decay. the sale, supply, storage and use of pesticides. Certificates of competence are required by: Q any contractor (volunteer groups are classed as contractors) shorten the stake and replace the tie at the Q anyone who was under 25 on 1 January top of the stake. 1989 who uses pesticides approved for use in agriculture, horticulture and forestry, unless under the direct personal supervision of a certificate holder. Does the tree still need a stake? A young tree or partially buried to anchor them. There are suitable chemical treatments for should need one only until its roots have grown grasses and grass/broadleaved weed into undisturbed soil to give it stability. mixtures, bracken, heather, woody weeds, gorse, broom and rhododendron, for conifer If, once the tie has been undone, the tree leans plantations, mixed woodlands and amenity and the roots move trees.2 Stakes and ties It is important to check the stakes and ties on young trees regularly and remove them as Guards soon as possible. Check tree guards in spring and autumn to ensure they are effective (no bark is missing Ties which are retained too long and start to or twigs bitten or broken off) and not constrict the trunk or which break or slip so rubbing or cutting into the tree. the stake causes abrasion, can result in permanent, sometimes terminal damage to Q If a guard is inadequate or the risk has trees. changed, consider different protection, e.g. a taller tube to protect against deer, or fencing to keep off cows and other farm animals. 6 MANAGING AND CARING FOR TREES MANAGING AND CARING FOR TREES 7

Q Repair/replace damaged guards. Caring for established trees then growth of the whole tree will reduce, Work on large established trees should be Q If a guard is damaging the tree, adjust, but the tree certainly will not die from carried out by an expert, as it may require modify or replace it. Established trees – those that have been ‘starvation’. Before rushing in with special equipment, training and Q Remove the guard when there is no planted for more than 10 years in the case fertilisers there should be a demonstrable experience.3 longer a risk of damage and clear away of standards or those that have outgrown need, based on a soil and foliar analysis any material that has built up inside. their tree guard and stake – still benefit from combined with a whole tree assessment. It may involve tree climbing, removing large care. This will enable a tree care professional to limbs and using a chain saw – in which case Wind and frost advise on the best kind of fertiliser, timing protective clothing must be worn and Exposure to a cold wind can kill roots. Mulching and application rates. training and insurance are advisable. They Check trees in the first weeks after planting, Mulching can have the same benefits for are essential if working on someone else’s especially after storms or hard frosts, or in mature trees as for newly-planted (see page However, some trees, particularly in urban land or removing tree branches overhanging early spring before the leaves flush, to see if 3). To be most effective it should be spread settings – where they are under extra stress – someone else’s property (see section 7, The any roots have become uncovered. Once the 50 to 100mm (2 to 4in) over an area twice may not be getting enough nutrients from the law and its impact on trees). soil has thawed, tread around any loose roots the height of the tree. Keep the base of the soil, and fertiliser may be necessary. This to keep the soil firm and stem upright. trunk free of mulch – leave an area 25 to can increase growth, improve a tree’s health A professional arborist can also advise what 50mm (1 to 2in) – or the bark may get moist and reduce susceptibility to pests and pruning is really necessary. Any work could Pruning newly-planted trees and this could lead to decay. disease. Again, before applying fertiliser change how the tree grows, or even cause it Careful pruning of young trees can prevent take professional advice.3 damage, so it is important that no branch is problems in later life, but bad pruning can Regular inspection removed without a reason. kill trees or make them hazardous, so Trees benefit from regular check-ups which Pruning established trees training is important. can help prevent major problems. Like Pruning an established tree can remove dead young trees, therefore, mature trees should and diseased wood, or branches infested Caring for ancient trees As well as pruning to remove dead or be inspected at least once a year to look out with pests, make the tree more vigorous and diseased twigs or branches, formative for any tell-tale signs such as: improve its structure. Deadwood is an Britain is thought to have more ancient trees pruning is important to produce a strong Q reduction in twig growth – compare it important habitat and part of the natural than any other country in Europe, providing lead shoot. In larger stock – feather and with growth over the past three years process of a tree. If it is in a woodland and valuable wildlife habitats and enriching our upwards – this will have been done by the Q fewer or smaller leaves not going to cause problems if it drops a heritage. Many of them have lasted so long nurseryman as part of the process of Q fewer buds branch, it is a good idea to consider whether because they were ‘working’trees, that is producing the trees. Q dieback in the crown (dead branches in management is really necessary. their wood and leaves were a crop. the upper part of the tree) With whips, transplants and seedlings this Q trunk decay – signs include loose bark or Careful pruning or tree surgery may also The management techniques used to should be carried out when the tree has fungi mean that a ‘problem’tree does not have to produce this crop – often coppicing or developed sufficiently, sometime after its Q spotted, deformed, discoloured or dead be felled on the grounds of safety or because pollarding (see page 13) – may have helped second year. leaves that could be caused by insects. of the risk of structural damage to nearby them to survive. buildings. For more information on Pruning and tree To fertilise or not Their continued survival – often as living, surgery, see page 8. Trees develop in balance with their However, it is vital to check first whether the decaying trees – depends on continued care. environment, absorbing water and dissolved tree is covered by any legislation, such as a What this care involves can vary from one minerals where they are available. If water or Tree Preservation Order (see section 7, The ancient tree to the next, with factors such as a particular mineral becomes in short supply law and its impact on trees). species, where it is growing, whether it has 8 MANAGING AND CARING FOR TREES MANAGING AND CARING FOR TREES 9

been actively managed at some time in its Pruning and tree surgery Quotations are usually free, but there may be Removing a thicker branch life and how long ago this ceased, all playing a fee for advice. 1. Using a saw, make a shallow undercut at a part. Pruning and training a tree correctly helps to least 30cm (12 in) from the trunk. keep it strong and healthy. It also regulates No work should be carried out during the Anyone planning to manage an ancient tree its shape and size, which can be particularly breeding season if, for example, there is any 2.A little further out, make a deeper cut from should get expert advice. However, the important for trees in gardens, streets and risk of disturbing nesting birds (see section above. general rule is to do as little as possible, other urban landscapes. Poor pruning, 7, The law and its impact on trees). particularly when it comes to surgery – and however, can damage a tree for its lifetime, Removing the bulk of the branch in this way only when there is a clear need, such as so all work should be carried out by experts. Formative pruning prevents it breaking off and ripping back the action to keep the tree alive as long as As small, accurate cuts are generally less Q Remove any dead, diseased, or damaged bark, making it vulnerable to infection. possible or to make it safe. damaging than large ones, formative wood. pruning to train a young tree can prevent the Q Cut out weak or crossing branches while 3.To remove the remaining stub, undercut just If possible spread the work over several need for more drastic surgery later when it maintaining the tree’s natural form. outside the branch collar, then cut through from years. The longer ago that the tree was last can be much more stressful for the tree. The Q Decide which branches to prune back or above. If the collar is difficult to find, cut through worked on, the smaller the amount of tree idea is to create a framework of evenly- remove. the stub at a short distance from the trunk, surgery that should be done at one time. spaced branches so that the tree needs less Q Never cut flush with the stem or trunk – making the cut so that it slopes outwards away corrective pruning to maintain safety and the always outside the branch collar (the from the tree. As there is no such thing as a completely desired appearance as it matures. slight swelling on the branch where it safe tree, it is also important to carry out a joins the trunk) – to avoid damaging the risk assessment as part of the management It is usually best to prune deciduous trees tree’s natural protective zone. 2 plan and then take appropriate action to when dormant – in late autumn or early reduce the risk to a reasonable level. winter – before spring growth. Other times It is not necessary to apply wound paint or 1 are possible, except late winter or early spring dressing. Research shows that they do not As part of caring for the tree itself, it is also when many trees exude sap (bleed) if cut. reduce decay or make the tree heal more important to manage the surrounding land quickly, and they rarely prevent disease. 3 by, for example: Trees that bleed a lot even towards the end of Q minimising disturbance and competition their dormant season, such as birches, horse Removing a thin branch for water, light and nutrients from other chestnuts, walnuts, maples and cherries, For branches of less vegetation should be pruned in mid summer after new If the aim is to shorten a branch, rather than Q than 2.5cm (1in) preventing physical damage to the tree, growth has matured. Also avoid heavy diameter, make a remove it completely, cut it back to a such as fire, compaction, cultivation and pruning after a spring frost. single cut with a sideshoot or healthy bud, facing outwards. deep ploughing which could harm the pruning saw or Do not cut too far from the bud as this leaves roots . Evergreens need little or no pruning except secateurs. an entry point for disease. Cutting too close to remove dead, damaged or diseased could damage the bud. Ideally, fallen branches and dead wood branches, crossing stems and badly-placed should be left where they are, as they provide laterals (side branches). This should be done For trees with alternate buds, make an habitat for many of the organisms associated in late summer. angled cut 3 to 5 mm (1/8 to 3/16 in) above a with ancient trees.4 bud so that the base of the cut is level with For work on large trees, anyone other than a the top of the bud on the opposite side of the qualified arborist should consult an expert3. stem. 10 MANAGING AND CARING FOR TREES MANAGING AND CARING FOR TREES 11

Pruning opposite buds For most young trees it is best to maintain a Pruning feathered trees Pruning a weeping standard For trees with opposite buds, make a straight single dominant leader to grow into the main Remove any Cut back lower laterals on main stem. cut directly above a strong pair of buds. trunk. competing or crossing shoots to Cut back crossing or vertical branches that Removing a competing leader leave a single main spoil the symmetry of the tree, but leave If a young tree develops a leader. some semi-upright stems to grow second leader – a downwards naturally and produce tiers of co-dominant stem – remove Take out any weeping branches. one of them to avoid possible spindly or badly future branch failure. placed laterals to Rub or pinch out any growths on the main achieve a stem as soon as they appear. framework of evenly-spaced and well-balanced branches. Creating a new leader Pruning a central-leader If a leader is damaged it can be replaced by standard – ‘feathering’ training another shoot. Feathered whips can gradually be pruned to Removing a crossing branch Choose a strong shoot and tie it to a cane. form a standard, a process which Branches that cross should be removed as Cut off the old, damaged leader. sometimes also occurs naturally.This they may rub together, causing damage to the ‘feathering’ channels food to the main stem bark – so letting infection in. Once the new leader is growing strongly, which becomes thicker and stronger. remove the cane. Year 1: Remove any weak or competing leaders. On the lowest third of the tree cut back Surgery/pruning – mature trees laterals to the main Certain types of pruning or tree surgery can stem. help keep mature trees healthy, safe and On the middle third, attractive – but it is always best done by an 3 cut back laterals by expert. half. Crown thinning Years 2 and 3: Repeat Crown thinning involves removing selected the procedure until the branches within the tree canopy to allow tree has about 1.8m more light to penetrate through and reduce (6ft) of clear stem. the wind resistance of the tree. It does not affect the height or the shape of the tree. 12 MANAGING AND CARING FOR TREES MANAGING AND CARING FOR TREES 13

Crown thinning Crown reduction Coppicing and pollarding Coppicing The aim of crown reduction is to reduce the Coppicing and pollarding are two Trees may be thinned by up to 30 per cent – Coppice in late winter or early spring. one branch in three. height and spread of a tree while retaining its management techniques which were natural shape. One reason for doing this is to traditionally practised to give a regular Cut back all stems to the base, leaving the help to create the statutory clearance that is supply of firewood, forage for animals, Dead wood and crossing branches should be swollen basal wood unpruned. pruned out as a priority as the tree is thinned. required for power and telephone lines. building timber or pliable stems for basketwork and fencing. Not all tree species respond well to this treatment. Today pollarded trees and coppiced woodlands are particularly important for their wildlife value and as landscape Crown reduction features. Pollarding is also still used to Cut back leaders and branch terminals to restrict the size of street trees. branches that are at least one-third the diameter of the cut stem. Coppicing is the regular pruning of a tree close to the ground so that many new strong shoots grow from the base.

Trees are normally coppiced on a seven to Crown lifting 20-year cycle, depending on the species. Pollarding Removing a tree’s lower branches can be Traditionally coppiced trees include hazel Managing pollards is best carried out by a done to allow access, clearance for to produce a good crop of nuts and materials professional who has specialist experience. buildings, vehicles or pedestrians, or to open for fencing or making hurdles. the view beneath the canopy. The basic technique is to cut back the Pollarding involves pruning a tree back to its branches every few years when the tree is dormant. Crown lifting main stem or branch framework, stimulating new shoots above the height where animals can graze.

Other tree management techniques It is important to seek expert advice in the There are various ways of managing trees – management of ancient pollards. However some for aesthetic reasons and others more coppicing or pollarding young trees or for economic and safety reasons. As with managing traditionally-coppiced woods are any kind of surgery on a mature tree all useful practical activities with which requiring a chain saw, this is something for many Tree Wardens get involved. experts to carry out. However, it is important for Tree Wardens to understand the techniques so that they can explain to others in their community about how and why trees are managed. 14 MANAGING AND CARING FOR TREES MANAGING AND CARING FOR TREES 15

Creating a pollard Creating a branched pollard Pleaching architectural stems, stripped of foliage This is normally done when the tree is Pleaching is a popular way of training and except for a ball of green at the end. Cloud between 10 and 15 years old and has a trunk shaping street trees in mainland Europe – a pruning is suitable for urban plantings were diameter of between 100mm and 300mm (4 more formal version of pollarding. It is also there may not be space for large trees. and 12in) depending on the species. used in formal gardens to create avenues of Cut the leader at between 2 to 5m (6 to 15ft) trees with their trunks left bare and their Bonsai from the ground to: upper branches intertwined and woven to The ancient Japanese technique of bonsai is Q remove the tree’s crown completely or look like a hedge on stilts. The species most used to produce trees that are miniaturised Q leave a framework of main branches that often used are lime, hornbeam, sweet versions of their mature or veteran selves. are also shortened to the required pollard chestnut and horse chestnut. height. Bonsai trees are used extensively in formal Topiary Japanese gardens but have become popular Then remove all lower lateral branches. Clipping hedging into a particular shape is in the west, particularly in small urban Creating a willow pollard back in vogue again. Most small-leaved gardens where space is limited. They can be Maintaining a pollard Willows pollard easily – new growth can be cut evergreen slow-growing trees – such as yew, cultivated from seed.6 Re-growth can be cut back on a two to 30- back each year in early spring while the tree is box, privet and holly – can be managed as year cycle, depending on the species, the dormant. topiary.5 Training fruit trees tree’s situation and the type of timber Fruit trees are pruned to maximise their required. This cutting will create a swollen The more informal Japanese cloud pruning fruiting potential. Over the years this has pollard head in the case of a single stem has also recently become popular. The aim is developed into something of an art-form, pollard, or a series of pollard knuckles on a to produce a manageable tree – half-way with pruning sometimes been carried out for branching pollard. between topiary and bonsai. The tree, such ornamental reasons as well as to increase the Q Willow is normally cut every year or as Japanese holly, is pruned to a few bare yield.7 every other year to produce thin pliable timber for weaving. Q Oak was traditionally cut on a much longer cycle to produce building timber. Q Street trees like lime and London plane are maintained on a five to 20-year cycle – not for their timber but to restrict their size. 16 MANAGING AND CARING FOR TREES

Where to find out more Encyclopaedia of Gardening, RHS The Tree and Shrub Specialist, David Squire Pruning Trees and Shrubs, Tony Kirkham Trees: Their Use, Management, Cultivation and Biology. A comprehensive guide, Bob Watson Pruning for Quality: A National Forest Guide www.nationalforest.org Veteran Trees: A guide to good management www.woodland-trust.org.uk/ancient-tree-forum References 1 www.pesticides.gov.uk 2 Department of the Environment booklet Guidance for the control of weeds on agricultural land (1992) Forestry Commission Booklet 51 The Use of Herbicides in the Forest (revised 1986) www.forestry.gov.uk 3 Arboricultural Association www.trees.org.uk International Society of Arboriculture www.isa-uki.org 4 Ancient Tree Forum, Veteran Trees: a guide to good management 5 Topiary, Christopher Crowder and Michael Ashworth 6 Complete Book of Bonsai, Harry Tomlinson 7 Pruning Fruiting Plants, Richard Bird

The Tree Council 71 Newcomen Street, London SE1 1YT Tel: 020 7407 9992 • Fax: 020 7407 9908 Email: [email protected] Website: www.treecouncil.org.uk

2007. Printed on 115gsm Greencoat Velvet.