News & Views from the sustaiNable southwest
Growing a Regional Food System
THE SEEDS OF RURAL RESILIENCE
October 2017 NortherN New Mexico’s Largest DistributioN Newspaper Vol. 9 No. 10 2 Green Fire Times • October 2017 www.GreenFireTimes.com Is Your Roof Winter Ready?
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4 Green Fire Times Oc tober 2017 www.GreenFireTimes.com Vol. 9, No. 10 October 2017 Issue No. 102
PUBLISHER Green Fire Publishing, LLC ews iews from the ustaiNable outhwest Skip Whitson N & V s s
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Winner of the Sustainable Santa Fe Award for Outstanding Educational Project Barbara E. Brown CONTENTS EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Seth Roffman NourishmeNt iN every Form aNd iN every seasoN — alejaNdro lópez ...... 7 DESIGN Green Fire Production Department FertiliziNg the Future oF acequia Farmers COPY EDITOR la cosecha de los sembradores — NicaNor ortega ...... 9 Stephen Klinger
WEBMASTER stayiNg power: Foodcorps—New mexico — leiloNi begaye ...... 11 Karen Shepherd red willow ceNter: 1st aNNual iNdigeNous Foods experieNce ...... 11 CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Leiloni Begaye, Leigh Caswell, Kendal Chávez, Mallory García, Helga García Garza, Helen Henry, rooted iN love: a Film, a Farmer, a movemeNt ...... 12 Alejandro López, Juan López, Cydney Martin, Nicanor Ortega, Pam Roy, Seth Roffman, albuquerque public schools: 80 gardeNs — mallory garcía ...... 15 Julie Sullivan, Mark Winne CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS the most importaNt word iN “commuNity gardeNiNg” Seth Roffman, Alejandro López, is Not ‘gardeNiNg!’ — mark wiNNe ...... 16 Gabriella Marks, Lisa E. Powell
PUBLISHER’S ASSISTANTS growiNg a resilieNt regioNal Food system — julie sullivaN ...... 18 Cisco Whitson-Brown, Steve Jinks, Gay Rathman
ADVERTISING SALES New research oN the power oF Food system iNvestmeNts to boost regioNal ecoNomies . .. .19 Call: 505-471-5177 Email: [email protected] what are Food policy couNcils? — pam roy ...... 20
John M. Nye 505.699.3492 [email protected] bread wiNNers aNd bread makers: saNta Fe womeN aNd Food ...... 23 Skip Whitson 505.471.5177 [email protected] ideas For cookiNg aNd NutritioN/supplemeNtal NutritioN assistaNce programs Anna C. Hansen 505.982.0155 — cyNdey martiN ...... 25 [email protected] Steve Jinks 505-303-0501 wheN aN apple a day is Not eNough — juaN lópez...... 27 [email protected] the agri-cultura Network ...... 27 DISTRIBUTION Linda Ballard, Barbara Brown, Co-op Dist. Services, Frankie García, Nick García, Scot Jones, PMI, healthy here mobile Farmers’ market ...... 27 Daniel Rapatz, Tony Rapatz, Wuilmer Rivera, Denise Tessier, Skip Whitson, John Woodie berNalillo couNty aNd kids cook! lauNch “Füdrr” healthy liFestyle competitioN . .. .29 CIRCULATION: 30,000 copies Printed locally with 100% soy ink on 100% recycled, chlorine-free paper hospital program oFFers kids Free healthy meals ...... 29 GREEN FIRE TIMES c/o The Sun Companies row the rowers iN erNalillo ouNty P.O. Box 5588, SF, NM 87502-5588 g g b c ...... 29 505.471.5177 [email protected] © 2017 Green Fire Publishing, LLC book proFile: saNta Fe Farmers’ market cookbook...... 31
Green Fire Times provides useful information for community members, business people, students and visitors—anyone Newsbites ...... 15, 37 interested in discovering the wealth of opportunities and resources in the Southwest. In support of a more sustainable planet, topics covered range from green businesses, jobs, products, services, entrepreneurship, investing, design, building and energy—to native what’s goiNg oN ...... 38 perspectives on history, arts & culture, ecotourism, education, sustainable agriculture, regional cuisine, water issues and the healing arts. To our publisher, a more sustainable planet also means maximizing environmental as well as personal health by ON THE COVER minimizing consumption of meat and alcohol. This corn grown at Taos Pueblo, in northern New Mexico, was used Green Fire Times is widely distributed throughout north- to make delicious blue corn bread central New Mexico as well as to a growing number of New Mexico cities, towns, pueblos and villages. Feedback, with blueberries. announcements, event listings, advertising and article submissions to be considered for publication are welcome. © Seth Roffman www.GreenFireTimes.com Green Fire Times Oc tober 2017 5 th C5 Annual H October 2-7th, 2017 U Join us! R R O
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6 Green Fire Times Oc tober 2017 www.GreenFireTimes.com NOURISHMENT in EVERY FORM and in EVERY SEASON The Succession of Local Sustaining Foods Across a Year’s Time Article and photos by Alejandro López
just finished eating a perfectly ripe apricot that my just for the body alone, but that it had the capacity to apples, piñón and, of course, carne seca and quesos. By friend Levi gave me from a tree in his back yard. nourish spirit, mind and even memory. How could it mid-March, however, a bit tired of these staples, people And what an experience that was! When I bit into be otherwise when, not long ago—as certain as the sun turned their attention to picking chimajá, a variety of wild, it,I its soft, translucent orange flesh released a torrent rises each morning—people had been an integral part tasty celery that, when dried, added to the flavor of the of concentrated flavors and nutrients. I had forgotten of the local ecology, together with its fauna and flora, of indispensable frijoles de olla. If you loved chimajá, however, what a real apricot tastes like, as opposed to one of those which food-bearing plants were among the most valued? you had better be quick and observant, for that diminutive humongous, not quite ripe, often disappointing apricots plant was available in the foothills around places like that come from afar in 10-pack, hard-plastic boxes, selling Cuarteles and other lower-altitude communities for only for at least three bucks at local stores. Comida has the capacity a few days before completely vanishing.
Biting into that apricot also instantly provoked a stream of to nourish spirit, mind In mid-April, people directed their energies to harvesting thoughts, memories and even emotions. How was it that a single clusters of asparagus that grew along embankments of the juicy, homegrown fruit was able to spark such consciousness- and even memory. acequias and beneath the ancient apple trees of our orchards. raising powers? Well, apricots have always been central to my In a world of locally produced food, the days, weeks, months For some reason, the sound of each stalk snapping at its base family’s farming life and our table. The fruit my friend gave me and years became memorable and significant, primarily in as my brothers and I picked them brought us unexpressed joy. not only tasted like the divine, succulent fruit it was, but also relation to the availability of certain foods. In northern New The delightful process of asparagus picking led to armloads like the New Mexican soil where it had been grown and the Mexico, a variety of foods poured forth from field, forest of thick, fresh spears that we took home to our adoring acequia water it had imbibed. To me, it also embodied the full and hillside, as well as from people’s cupboards, pantries mother. For a couple of weeks each year, the abundant supply flavor of summer, family and community, given that during my and dispensas or granaries if la gente had been wise enough became an almost daily staple, in contrast to the occasional youth my extended family and I used to pick vast quantities to put away the harvest when it was plentiful. Food and delicacy that the thin, store-bought variety is today. from the arboles de albarcoque at my aunt Genoveva Montoya’s its availability were among the most defining events of the home in El Jardín, near Chimayó. These had been among the yearly cycle, for in an age in which government assistance Other plants there for the picking included quelites or happiest of times. As if by magic, the indescribably sweet flavor barely existed, ensuring sustainable sources of nourishment wild spinach, huanemo (a northern Tiwa word for high- and special texture of that apricot effortlessly and convincingly dramatically increased one’s chances for survival. mountain spinach), wild onions, verdolagas or purslane and, transported me to that place and those times. of course, capulín or chokecherries. These required little In the depths of winter, people feasted upon the stored- effort to obtain but had the potential to enrich every meal. While eating the apricot I realized that comida was not up heaps of grains, peas, beans, chile, pumpkins, potatoes, CONTINUED ON PAGE 8
Verdolagas (purslane) – wild greens Chicos to be roasted in an horno Freshly picked sweet peas in the spring www.GreenFireTimes.com Green Fire Times • October 2017 7 Nourishment in Every Form continued from page 7 Each was gathered with great care and rapid-fire succession. Delectable green enthusiasm and subsequently processed, squash always coincided with the ripening usually by women and children. of corn so as to facilitate the preparation of what is perhaps northern New Mexicans’ If people had been prudent enough to sow most preferred vegetable dish—maiz con sweet peas by late February, by mid-May calabacitas. Cucumbers and tomatoes, as well they would be enjoying freshly picked as green chile followed, only to be overtaken alverjón. In spite of the small size of the by waves of cabbage and root vegetables; and individual peas, people did not mind shelling in the department of sweet things, by tons of them for hours on end, for they harbored a ripening melons, watermelons and ever-so- A NEW SPACE sweetness and freshness that, after a long, juicy clusters of grapes hanging from arbors. hard winter of relying heavily on calditos, or soups, they yearned for. Besides, the Meanwhile, on the trees, the apples, pears FOR NEW ART conversations people had while shelling and plums had also begun to ripen, and for peas around the kitchen table were often as once, the ranchero was at a complete loss as to delicious as the peas themselves. what to pick first. When all had finally been harvested and put away for the winter, the It was not long after the alverjón peaked that people only needed to concern themselves real fruits in the form of cherries, apricots with two other of nature’s consumable and then peaches, by mid-July, adorned the products that arrived in the late fall—the tables of the average farmer. If he did not piñón nut and the flavorful te de cota or cota have these himself, he could easily barter or tea. While it was easy to gather te de cota, wait until a good friend or neighbor chanced twist a handful of its long stalks into a figure to come by with a bagful. Soon thereafter, eight and let it dry for future use, picking the earth busied herself unleashing virtual piñón was no picnic, although it might OPENING OCT 6-8, 2017 rivers of cucumbers, string- and faba beans, involve one. The pursuit of the minuscule onions, and best of all, maíz. El maíz was an nut usually involved a family outing and a indispensable crop that could be put away foray into the labyrinthine piñón forests of Santa Fe’s premier contemporary art museum, SITE Santa Fe, inaugurates for the winter in large northern New Mexico. its new home with a thought-provoking and timely exhibition: quantities in various Food and its Families almost always forms that ranged from took with them storage posole or hominy to availability were containers, blankets dried, parched corn, on which to sit while commonly called chicos, among the most gathering the nuts, and Doug Aitken Patrick Bernatchez Andreas Gursky from the Mexican- tarps intended to catch Lynn Hershman Leeson Rafael Lozano-Hemmer Spanish word chicales. defining events the piñón and the cones Dario Robleto Alexis Rockman Tom Sachs when the trees were While growing up, I of the yearly cycle. vigorously shaken. Regina Silveira Andrea Zittel found it curious that whenever a particular These internationally-known artists explore the profound impact of technological fruit or food came into season, one tended The sometimes epic process, which could acceleration, social upheaval, and structural change on contemporary life. to ignore all other foods in favor of that include the breakdown of a pickup truck particular one, which we had not eaten or the inadvertent “leaving behind” of an in nearly a year. It was significant that unsuspecting, distracted family member, THE REVEAL: OPENING FÊTE & LATE NIGHT PARTY during the time of the ripening of cherries usually took place during October and or sweet corn, for example, one yearned November, before the snows arrived. Friday, Oct 6, 6 pm until midnight for nothing more than for large doses of When snow did arrive, it usually found the Tickets $20 and up these foods. They were obviously loaded families (intact), seated around the warmth Tour the new SITE Santa Fe and preview the exhibitions with the very vitamins, minerals, or trace of a fogón or wood-burning stove, cracking FUTURE SHOCK & Kota Ezawa: The Crime of Art elements that the body most craved, and freshly roasted piñón with their back teeth Enjoy special appearance and performance by Supaman who fuses singing, in quantities that it could assimilate and while telling intriguing stories in the native rapping, DJing and fancy dance | Food, libations & more store. The practice of eating but one kind mexicano speech of the region. of food when in season seemed to result in The Reveal is a 21 and over party. the dramatic refortification of bodily tissues, Among the most persistent of these stories an increase in chi or the life-force, together were those of how previous generations COMMUNITY OPEN HOUSE DAYS with the strengthening of the immune of antepasados or ancestors had managed system. Owing to so concentrated a diet to cobble a living in this tough, semi-arid Sat, Oct 7, 10–6:30 pm | Sun, Oct 8, 10:30–5 pm of large quantities of organic fruits and highland world by doing any one of a million Free and open to all! vegetables drawn directly from our gardens things necessary to coax from nature her and orchard, I have rarely succumbed to many fine edible gifts—gifts for which people For schedule & tickets please visit sitesantafe.org illnesses of any kind. Celebrated New were muy agradecidos or very grateful. ■ Mexican farmers, Dora Pacías and Lorenzo Candelaria of Atrisco, in the South Valley of Alejandro López is a native Join now as a Charter Member for discounts and access to event tickets. Albuquerque, are known to say, “La comida northern New Mexico writer, 1606 Paseo de Peralta, Santa Fe, NM 87501 505.989.1199 sitesantafe.org es medicina” or “Food is medicine.” photographer and educator. [email protected] Soon after the corn harvest, the real avalanche of ripening crops took place in
8 Green Fire Times • October 2017 www.GreenFireTimes.com FERTILIZING the FUTURE of ACEQUIA FARMERS Los Sembradores Farmer Training Program For many New Mexico farmers, working the land is a sacred eating, value-added products, leadership development and of Chimayó, and Shane Tolbert, an Abiquiú resident. duty and tradition. Farmers are needed to irrigate the lands. The other topics were added to a 10-month, 3-day-a-week land can nourish families, but in order for farmers to be able to curriculum designed to teach season extension, the basics The ecological, spiritual and economic health of northern make a living at it, they must have access to lands that can be needed to launch a successful market garden, as well as New Mexico’s rural, agricultural communities depends cultivated. When fields are left fallow too long, the owners risk marketing techniques. on passing on the skills it takes to be a farmer, listening losing their water rights. With these things in mind, in 2017 to the land, working in community and problem solving, the New Mexico Acequia Association (NMAA) took over Donne Gonzales is NMAA’s farmer trainer and manager. along with blood, sweat and tears. NMAA’s farmer training administration of the Farmer Training Program, which had Gonzales is a 10-year participant of Sembrando Semillas, program is creating a community of learners who are gaining been initiated and run by the New Mexico American Friends NMAA’s intergenerational traditional agriculture program, the confidence to pursue their dreams and inspire others Service Committee (AFSC). and also a graduate of AFSC’s Farmer Training Program. to farm and garden. To apply for the 2018 training or to In 2017, NMAA’s current program has three apprentices: make a donation to support the program, call 505.995.9644 The NMAA started by moving the training site to Chamisal, Nicanor Ortega of Arroyo Hondo (north of Taos), who is or email [email protected]. The NMAA’s on the Acequia del Monte. Community meals, healthy also a Sembrando Semillas participant; Matthew Encinias website is: www.lasacequias.org ■
Bean field on Nicanor Ortega’s family’s land in Arroyo Hondo, Taos County, NM LA COSECHA de los SEMBRADORES Harvest of the Seed Sowers Nicanor Ortega his year, Los Sembradores farm power tools. Driving self-tapping screws I want to farm my acequia land full- apprenticeship has been a great into metal is no joke! time and contribute by helping support experience. I have learned so the children of our community. With muchT about farming and what I want to This apprenticeship has been challenging, the life-skills and mentorship I gained do with the knowledge I now carry. It has but I have gained a solid platform for this year, I am ready for my next been a blessing to be at Chicoyole Farm how to farm sustainably and work in step. I have a better in Chamisal. What I like about Chicoyole community. We have covered many topics outlook on how farm is working and learning with La and have had opportunities to really get I can accomplish Familia Gonzales y García, y los vecinos our hands and boots dirty. These areas of my goals. This year de Chamisal. Together we have enjoyed study and practice will definitely help my north of Taos, in our days and every unique insight. The farm prosper. Arroyo Hondo, laughter we have shared has been very with la Acequia therapeutic for me. With care and respect, Look at all this apprenticeship has to offer Atalaya, I was also la familia Gonzales y García y los vecinos a beginner farmer: We learned different able to cultivate de Chamisal have overcome the challenges acequia systems and even cleaned La my own property. I September potato of building a farm. Acequia del Monte en Chamisal “Vuelta!” was blessed with an harvest, Chamisal, NM. We put together and came to understand arvejón (peas) crop L-R: Nicanor Ortega, Matthew Encinias, Shane I couldn’t have asked for better mentors drip-system irrigation. We rototilled the that was financially Tolbert and Eduardo and consejo (advice) to help me grow into ground and prepared it with new and old rewarding. © Seth Roffman (3) Gonzales the acequiero y sembrador (acequia farmer tools such as el cabador (hoe), finger hoe and and seed sower) that I want to be. On any hula hoe. We were able to do early season With all the knowledge passed down water, people and traditions). day you could count on someone visiting, planting where cucumbers, tomatoes and through New Mexico Acequia Association helping, or offering professional advice. We melons were started. Planting, pest control farmer training apprenticeship, I look ¡Qué viva las acequias y que viva el amor sobre ■ built a 48-by-106-ft. high-tunnel hoop– and weeding made up a lot of our daily forward to the years to come, farming my nosotros. Qué Dios te bendiga! house from the ground up. This took a lot work. It was very rewarding to be able land and developing an opportunity para of hard work, sweat and pounding of 20 to harvest and prepare the products for nuestra juventud (for our youth). Thank Nicanor Ortega is a farmer apprentice 5-ft. posts into the ground. We gained skills wholesale markets. you all for the support and interest in with the New Mexico Acequia Association. in working with a variety of hand- and nuestra agua, gente y tradiciones (our www.lasacequias.org www.GreenFireTimes.com Green Fire Times • October 2017 9 Time to prepare for winter.
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